We found the following complaints for SUBARU OUTBACK (2006)
Read complaints for SUBARU OUTBACK (2006)
Hi,i'm writing you to to inform you of a safety issue with the 05-09 subaru outback airbag system.the passenger airbag notification board, located in the dome light assembly is assembled with poor quality solders between the board and diodes, this results in failure of the board, this is often seen in lower temperatures when the solders crack due to thermal contraction. When one of these solders fails, it causes 2 issues, 1, the indicator lights don't come on correctly, and 2, the entire airbag system is disabled. This is an issue known to the subaru owners community. My dealer wants about $260 to fix it. Thanks.
Takata recall. Was notified 02//2016 of passenger side front airbag recall. Letter stated that there were no parts and would be notified by second letter when parts were available. As of 9/1/16, no second letter. Called dealer and was told parts are available sporadically and that i should have called to be put on a waiting list. This is not what the letter from subaru stated. If i had not called dealer, would not have known that parts are available and that i needed to on waiting list. I could have been waiting forever for a second letter as subaru stated they would send but apparently they were notsending.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving 65 mph, the vehicle experienced a loss of power and all the warning indicators illuminated. After pulling the vehicle over to the side of the road, waiting a brief period, and manually restarting the vehicle, it became operable again. The failure occurred on three occasions. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 148,655.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags); however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. The vin was not available. Parts distribution disconnect.
Takata recalli received written and email notification from subaru this week (12/6/16) that my front passenger air bag inflator was subject to recall. Although the note claimed to be a "2nd notification", it is not. I have received no previous notification from subaru that my airbag was dangerous and so have been driving with passengers. I now see that subaru knew my airbag was dangerous one year ago but failed to inform me. I assume this was deliberate as they knew they did not have parts and did not want to have to provide me with a car that was safe to drive while they waited for the parts. This has put my family members at risk.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received a recall notification for nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags). The parts needed were not available. The contact believed that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time to provide the recall repairs. The dealer and manufacturer were made aware of the delay. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.
Takata recall. February 2016 recall 15v-323. 6 months have not heard from dealer.
Subaru dealership refused to discuss safety issue recalls selling vehicle with open safety recalls and other safety issues that could have been easily remedied. The vehicle had been in for service and problems were not addressed. Dealership claims "sold as is" and buyer beware, after we had leased a new 2019 vehicle and purchased a like new used vehicle that had gone through their extensive multipoint inspections. Issues for air bags, fuel system leaking, potential fire and explosion, faulty seat latches as safety recall.dealership has violated trust and exhibited no concern for anyone's safety. We can not trust this dealership for repair or service of our vehicles.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags). The parts to do the repair were unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The dealer confirmed that the parts were not available. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags); however, the part needed to perform the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not notified of the issue. The vin was invalid. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags); however, the parts to do the repair were not available. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not notified. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
Takata recallwe have been on the waiting list for the replacement airbag since september 20, 2016. The dealer tells us we are still number 45 on the list and will not predict when they will be able to service the car.
While traveling thru the adirondack region of ny on a sunday afternoon returning home from vt i proceededto pass a vehicle from the center lane into the left lane. Speed was 65mph accelerating to 69mph to pass, not more than 250 ft later our vehicle started to fishtail then head right into numerous 360spins taking out 35 ft or so of guard rail and crunching and damaging almost every side and corner of our outback. Both hands were on the wheel, i did not hit any snow or ice that i am aware of and i was not speeding excessively. Not one of our airbags deployed either!! i am confident there was some sort of mechanical or electrical issue with the stability control of the 2006 outback we were driving and am thankful we were not seriously injured.
Airbag warning light illuminated and remained illuminated after bit test completed on engine start. Owners manual states an illuminated airbag warning light could mean the airbag system will not deploy or perform as designed in the event of an accident. I believe this is result of a subaru design flaw that subaru needs to address and correct via recall.
The air bag light comes on and goes off randomly and sometimes you will be driving along at about 35 mph and the car will jolt once and the air bag light, check engine light will come on as well as the cruise control light will start blinking and will not be operable. Then all of the lights will go out until you turn the car off and then back on.
Traveling from my home to denver, co i noticed the 'air bag warning light' come on.this has occurred on several occasions.i called the auto nation subaru dealer to try and get an appointment.the service rep said they were full for the day.he asked me what the issue was and i told him about the 'air bag warning light' coming on.moreover, he said that the air bag would not function with the warning icon on.he then asked me if i may have placed my cell phone in the passenger seat?i told him that i had indeed placed my cell phone in the passenger seat.the service rep added further that my cell phone may be interfering with the electronics of the air bag warning system.this sounded very odd to me.this phenomena is very disconcerting as it could readily result in serious injury if the air bag should fail to deploy in a head on collision.i also spoke to a service tech at another subaru outlet who told me that he had heard of this odd cell phone/air bag situation.as this air bag phenomena that is occurring in my vehicle is not an isolated situation, i feel that this issue should be addressed and repaired immediately.
Takata recallon 2/16/16, i received an airbag recall notice and warning not to allow passengers to ride in the front passenger seat until the repair is performed. I contacted my dealer, carter subaru seattle the next day and was told an airbag would be ordered for me and would arrive in a few weeks.i called the dealer again on 3/8/16 and was told they have not received any airbag replacements and do not know when they will.i need to use my car for transporting my family. This is a hardship for me to be indefinitely without the abillty to use my front passenger seat.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags); however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
2006 subaru outback.consumer writes in regards to parts not available to repair front passenger airbag recall notice.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign numbers: 15v323000 and 14v311000 (air bags and service brakes, hydraulic). The part was not available within a reasonable time frame to schedule the recall repair. The dealer did not give a specific date for when the part would become available. The manufacturer was not notified of the issue. The contact was not experiencing a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
Within week of purchase of used vehicle, subaru outback 2006, had intermittent red airbag trouble light indicator on and inconsistent passenger airbag on/off light. Vehicle came with 6 month warranty from independent company. Told by small independent shop (temple auto mart, temple, pa) of purchase vehicle has code 26 indicating passenger airbag module with passenger airbag indicator on/off light mounted on inside roof above the rear view mirror is bad and that they are not able to help with this problem. Called warranty company and told this item is not covered. Went to local subaru dealer (steve moyer subaru, leesport, pa) who confirmed code 26 problem and the passenger airbag module needs to be replaced and charged $97.52 for evaluation. Dealer ordered part and estimates $299.97 for part, labor, and state sales tax. Told by dealer when red airbag trouble light indicator is on the all airbags will not activate when needed. Believe this safety item cost should be subaru's responsibility. I am requesting a manufacture recall to cover all costs and include assurance this is problem does not occur again on this vehicle.
2006 subaru outback head gaskets went bad at about 35,000 miles.had to replace those called subaru and they help me get those replaced. Thought all was well soon after, the electrical system including the air conditioner and the heater .then i was told that the airbags were defaulted and to bring it into replace them which i did. The final straw is that they called me again two weeks ago to bring the rigging to replace that same airbag again. I asked them why they gave me a car that wasn't safe. The wheel bearings also wore out very early around 50 miles. This car has been so expensive. And now they informed me that there was a second recall on the airbag. So i bring it in for the second time realizing that now in 2021 this car has not been safe the whole time i've been driving it with my family my daughter learned how to drive in this car and so did my son. As they were repairing the faulty airbag they cracked the dashboard and then informed me that it would be $300 to fix it because it had a tiny crack in it. Please note that they were the ones that took the dashboard off in the first place. Super rude! i called subaru of america and they decided to reimburse me for the dashboard. They were talking about gluing it back together last i heard i'm very much hoping this is not the case my daughter ensures me that it isn't but we'll see. Also he informed me that my head gaskets were leaking again. The mechanic said that this is common once you've had your gaskets replaced. This makes no sense to me. My car has about 160,000 miles on it and it seems like it's already played out and not safe. What a joke. I'll never buy a subaru again.this has been the worst car and apparently the most unsafe car i've ever owned. Note:this car was consistently unsafe while driving for the last 15 years. I bought it because it had a five star rating for safety what a joke!
The car's air bag light came on. It was recalled for an air bag issue one or two years ago so i took the car to the subaru dealership to fix the issue. But now this light came on about a month ago. It turns off at times, but it comes back on eventually.
Was involved in a head on collision and my air bags did not deploy. I've read online after the accident others have experienced the same thing. I could of been killed if i was driving any faster.
I got a recall notice for fixing passenger sear air bag. But it does not appear on this nhtsa website. It still say 0 unrepaired recalls. How can anyone trust this website?
Takata recalli received notification in january, 2016.subaru has not yet performed the repair.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign numbers: 15v323000 (air bags) and 14v311000 (service brakes, hydraulic). The part to do the repair was not available. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue.the contact had not experienced a failure.
Takata recall: notice was received 19 feb. 2016, nhtsa recall no. 15v-323, subaru recall campaign wqr53.autonation subaru west, 16351 west colfax avenue, golden, co 80401, (855) 503-3943, will not even enter my car in a wait queue.i must repeatedly call them until they have the inflator "in their hands" and then they will provide an appointment for me.more than 60 days have elapsed and i still cannot carry a front seat passenger!subaru of america, inc. Should know this!thank you, [xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received a recall notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags); however, the part for the recall was not available. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer wasnotified of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
Takata recall - first contacted subaru at beginning of december 2016 about scheduling repairs. Recall has still not been completed. Dealer is waiting for parts.
Air bag light stayed on after engine start.research indicated that the solder joints on the circuit board located in the overhead console fail over time (the same board that contains the indicator lights for the passenger air bag status).apparently the air bag system is disabled when the air bag light stays on - meaning that none of the air bags may work if the circuit board becomes defective.replacement board, if found, is over $300.i repaired mine by re-soldering the various bad contact points on the board.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags); however, the part to do the repair was not available. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was notified. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.updated 05/25/16*lj
Airbag light is on due to passenger on/off overhead light not functioning properly. It cannot register whether or not there is a passenger in the car, and therefor the airbag light is on. I know that the airbags will not deploy in the event of an accident with the light on.
2006 subaru legacy outback ll bean. Consumer writes in regard to airbag recall notices being sent to themthough they no longer own vehicle.*as
Car intermittently loses all power as you are driving and rpm gauge goes up as cruise control and check engine light go on. A very dangerous situation that subaru customers have complained about, but subaru ignores need for recalls. Money spent on troubleshooting is ridiculous! car works fine after pulling over and restarting after a couple of minutes, only to happen suddenly weeks later. Gas pedal accelerator assembly and or throttlebody issues. Also subaru cars from 2006 and older all have head gasket leaks. They never recalled cars for that problem. That costs $1600. They used a different gasket material after 2007
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags); however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The vehicle was taken to the morehart murphy dealer (30 parker ave, durango, co 81303) and the contact was informed that they only received ten parts per month. The manufacturer was contacted, but did not respond. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v323000 (air bags) however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not notified of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Part distribution disconnect.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback.she stated that her vehicle was rear-ended, which caused her to crash into the rear of another vehicle.the airbags did not deploy.the failure and current mileages were 26,000.updated 02-01-08 the driver and passenger seats both went all the way down laying flat in the vehicle and because of this defect the passenger in the back seat was injured. Updated 02/01/08
My 2006 subaru legacy outback has a passenger side airbag that will not stay "on" when a person under 125 pounds is in the passenger seat. I weigh 115 pounds. The airbag light is in the "off" position about 65% of the time i am sitting in the passenger seat. It happens every time i am in the car and has since i bought it in 2005. Subaru has tested the sensor calibration many times. I have gone for a drive to demonstrate the problem to head mechanic at my dealership and he was very appalled! nothing has ever been done to try to correct the problem as subaru says this would require re-engineering the entire passenger airbag system. Subaru has told us that it is functioning as designed and is calibrated correctly. This has been an ongoing issue since the car was purchased new by me in 2005. I have reached the end of the road with subaru and they are aware of this issue but can offer no solution to fix it. My research has shown many other nhtsa complaints open on this same issue relating to all makes and models of subaru cars and their passenger side airbags. Please do something to protect the public and require subaru to find a solution to this problem.
I was accelerating to get on the freeway entrance in my subaru outback (with my wife and two small children) when i notice a complete loss in throttle response.the car was just barely moving due to the engine idle.check engine light came on.i drove at that pace to a parking lot to check my options.i had not noted, until now, that this car has no throttle cable and is completely drive-by-wire.i looked at the connection of wire harness to the pedal assembly and did not see any red flags - no corrosion, etc.it appeared to be in good shape. I shut the car off, waited about 30 sec, and restarted it.it then got us home.when i got home tonight, i ran my obd diagnostic tool and got a p2138 error code.this is listed as "throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "d"/"e" voltage correlation" trouble code description.i am going to check into my options tomorrow, but felt this was worth reporting since it appears there are others out there that have experienced this problem as well.there is definitely a safety concern with a failure of this nature as i was traveling at a good rate and in traffic.luckily, everyone is ok - but my wife and i worry when this will happen again.thanks.
Vehicle developed issue error code p2138, throttle sensor on gas pedal desynchronizes causing vehicle to go into emergency safety mode where power is lost, goes into a high idle, and vehicle must be parked and restarted multiple times before powertrain reactivates. Caused by faulty design of potentiometer on throttle pedal that wears a bare spot. Replacement of throttle (gas pedal) required to resolve issue, which will eventually start occurring again due to poor design. Has occurred when pedal isn't being used (cruise control only), as well as during normal driving at all different speeds.
While driving on the highway, the check engine light came on and i immediately had no throttle response. Thankfully it was 10:30pm and there was a lower volume of traffic. I coasted off to the shoulder. Turned the vehicle off, restarted, and still no throttle response. Turned off again for about 15 minutes. This time there was throttle response, but cel was still on. The following day, the cel light was off and vehicle running fine. Now, a week later, it happened again. It is a very dangerous situation to all of a sudden have no power while driving. Especially when there is traffic around. The fear is being run into from behind, or being stuck on the side of the road and become prey for the unsavory. This situation needs to be remedied before someone dies.
My fiancee was driving my 2006 subaru outback on the highway approximately 65 mph when there was a sudden loss of power. The throttle was unresponsive, but the engine remained idling. My partner pulled over to the side of the highway and tried restarting right away but the engine wouldn't start. After waiting a few minutes he was able to restart and drive normally. The cel was on with the cruise control blinking. When i took the car in to get the code read it gave the p2138 error code. In the last month this has happened 3 more times, including when on the way to the mechanic this morning. The mechanic said he has heard of this problem previously with '06 subarus and recommended i get the wvu31 recall update, which i am really hoping will make a difference. This is extremely unsafe and essentially makes my car undriveable as i am never certain when a sudden loss of power will occur. If this happens where there is no shoulder it could easily cause an accident. This is an extreme safety concern that needs to be addressed!
Sudden deceleration of vehicle. Check engine light comes on and the car goes limp. Vehicle is restartableafter 5 minutes, however the throttle does not work properly afterward and the vehicle will not accelerate normally, thus it drives much slower, and will not go above 60 mph. Problem comes and goes.
While driving on interstate highway, vehicle lost engine power. Electric was still on. Gas pedal did not work. Cel and cruise control lights both blinking. Was able to maintain 15 mph on flat road, and barley any speed on incline. Got off highway near home and shut of engine. Waited and tried to start back up. 30 seconds of cranking, and nothing. Waited another minute and it started. Got home and pulled a p2138 code. Pulled wiring harness off gas pedal and reseated it. Reset the cel and everything has been fine since. Scary situation, especially at 65mph during thanksgiving eve rush-hour.
While driving at 65 mph, car began to "buck" and lost power. Cruise control light began to flash and check engine light was steady. Happened exactly the same again today, 6/3/2014. Problem was coded as p2138 and accelerator assembly was replaced one year ago. Car will need to go in to mechanic again today. Expect similar problem.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds with the accelerator pedal depressed, the vehicle stalled. Several warning lights were then illuminated after the vehicle stalled. The battery terminals were disconnected and then reconnected and the vehicle performed as intended. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who was unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 160,000. The vin was not available.
On street, from park with engine idling, car in drive, accelerator pedal dead at first, then high rpm 3000+ withpedal released. No control of engine rpm. Cel and cc illuminated on instrument panel. Put transmission in neutral. Killed ignition switch. Engine shut down. Restarted engine and rpm was normal. Very frightening!found dtc p2138 acc pedal sensor failure. Called subaru support, no such record of failure. Called dealer from which car was purchased, answer was bring car in and will try to repair. This is a serious failure and danger. Please see this failure on google. Many people are reporting the same issue. I am apprehensive to put this car on the road especially with other people in it. An investigation should be pursued in these drive by wire vehicles as this car is. Please take this seriously..thank you
While driving 70mph in the fast lane down the highway i turned cruise control on. As soon as the cruise control was engaged all throttle was lost. While in motion i put the car in neutral then back into drive and nothing happened. The car was decelerating so i pulled off the highway. Once safely on the side of the road i turned the car off for several minutes and then back on. The acceleration capability returned but the check engine light was on. I took the car to a mechanic to read the code which came back as the throttle control sensor. This is a very dangerous defect and should be addressed by subaru america.
In the 2006 subaru outback 3.0 the throttle is controlled electronically.this failed on me while driving at 70 mph down the freeway.the gas peddle stopped responding.i could not accelerate or maintain speed.i had to pull over.after about 1 minute i restarted the car and the throttle started to respond again.my check engine light is now on and the cruise control light is blinking.this is a safety hazard and needs a fix.after reviewing many forums, it doesn't sound like subaru knows what is causing the issue.but there are some "recommendations".
I was driving when the accelerator pedal stopped responding.i couldn't accelerate or maintain speed.the check engine light was now on and the cruise control light was flashing.i pulled over and the idle was at 2,000 rpms and the accelerator pedal was still not responding.i turned off the engine for about 5 minutes.when i turned it back on, the accelerator was working but the check engine light was on and the cruise control light was flashing.
No heat, air and of all defrost for the front window stops working while driving, also everything is controlled thru the radio whick could have bad cold solder joints . Very dangerous when shuts down while driving on the highway
Car intermittently loses all power as you are driving and rpm gauge goes up as cruise control and check engine light go on. A very dangerous situation that subaru customers have complained about, but subaru ignores need for recalls. Money spent on troubleshooting is ridiculous! car works fine after pulling over and restarting after a couple of minutes, only to happen suddenly weeks later. Gas pedal accelerator assembly and or throttlebody issues. Also subaru cars from 2006 and older all have head gasket leaks. They never recalled cars for that problem. That costs $1600. They used a different gasket material after 2007
I was driving my 2006 subaru outback at around 40 mph, going straight on a busy road. Without warning, the accelerator stopped functioning and the vehicle slowed down abruptly. It apparently entered a "safe" mode, with a maximum speed of about 10 mph regardless of how much pressure i applied to the accelerator. The "check engine" warning light was illuminated, and the cruise control light began flashing. I pulled into a parking lot and turned off the ignition. When i re-started the car, the warning lights remained illuminated, but the accelerator functioned normally again and i was able to return home. The vehicle's engine management computer provided an error code p2138, throttle position sensor/switch voltage correlation. This appears to be a common problem with subaru vehicles from around this model year. It has the potential to be an extremely dangerous situation when the throttle suddenly stops working and the car slows to a crawl abruptly. My 17-year-old daughter is the main driver of this vehicle. If the error were to occur on the highway, it could cause a serious accident. There is no reason that the computer needs to put the vehicle in "safe" mode after sensing an electrical abnormality in the throttle wiring. I would like to request a recall to correct this extremely hazardous safety defect.
Subaru outback/legacy 2006 - intermittent issue over a few months.the check engine light comes on, cruise control flashes and car goes limp, gas pedal stops working.after car goes limp, engine needs to be turned off, but once car is put in park for it to be turned off, the engine revs to approx. 2000 rpms on its own.the car then has to sit for a few minutes to attempt to turn the car on and the gas pedal to work again.this problem has thrown the code p2138.this is a serious safety issue, even more so as it has happened while on the freeway, where the car will lose speed due to the accelerator pedal not working and the car has essentially become a roadblock in the middle of fast oncoming traffic.this could have potentially caused serious accidents.after researching this particular problem online, it appears that many others with this exact car make/year have had the same issue and it is prevalent to this particular car.subaru needs to conduct an investigation and offer a safety recall of this vehicle - at the very least, the cost of repairs to fix this known and prevalent issue with this car needs to be covered by the manufacturer.
My vehicle lost all ability to accelerate while driving on the freeway. I had to coast into the emergency lane, which was a wall of snow in colorado at this time of year. Blocking traffic in the slow lane, i waited for a tow to my subaru dealer. They told me that my pedal accelerator assembly had failed. After repairs, i experienced the same problem 2 weeks later. This time they are stating that my electronic throttle body has failed. I have researched carcomplaints.com and see that i am one of over 50 consumers that have experienced this problem.
While driving car check engine light will come on and cruise control light will flash. Car goes into limp mode and the accelerator will not longer respond dropping the cars speed drastically. This can happen on any road, at any speed, and any weather condition. Temporary fix is to stop and cycle the cars power three or four times. More permanent fix is to replace the pedal assembly-accelerator at a cost of $199. Happened a few dozen times before i finally got the pedal assembly replaced. Issued started early 2016, and replaced the assembly in 2018.
After slowing to a near stop at the bottom of an interstate highway exit ramp, my car suddenly, and without warning, died and i lost all systems, including engine and power steering.all i was able to do was drift to the side of the road. Subaru initiallybelieved that the ecm had failed.after replacing the ecm, it became apparent that that was not the issue.subaru ultimately determined that the wiring harness housing had melted against the coolant crossover pipe, exposing wiring which was then shorting out.subaru could give me no explanation as to why the wiring harness was installed against a hot component of my engine such that it would melt.had this happened 1 minute earlier, i would have been on interstate 95 during rush hour traffic with a dead car.given the suddenness with which my car died, it is likely i would have been involved in a serious accident.
Sudden loss of acceleration while driving; connection between gas pedal and engine control is faulty. Forces driver to coast to a stop and turn off car. No ability to use gas to get out of the way faster.
The first incident with this car was me putting the transmission into park after stopping at a gas station and the rpms suddenly shot up to 2000. After filling the tank, i tried to start it but it wouldn't turn over. I let it sit for a moment and then tried again and it started with now the "check engine light" on and "cruise" flashing. The lights self-corrected later that day before i could have the code read. The next incident i was in a left hand turn lane with a green arrow. The check engine light and cruise came on and i suddenly lost the use of the gas pedal. It was completely limp. No matter how hard i pressed on it the car just moved along at idle speed, less than 5 mph. I barely made it through the intersection before i lost the green arrow. I pulled over, put it in park, the rpms went to 2000, then i turned it off. Tried starting it again and it wouldn't turn over. Tried it a second time and it fired right up and the gas pedal functioned properly. The check engine light and cruise were on again. I took it to an auto parts store to have the code read and it came up with p2138, an issue with the throttle position sensor. These incidents occurred twice more before i was able to get a proper diagnosis from a mechanic and they occurred anywhere from one to two weeks apart. This is a potentially very dangerous issue with these cars and should be addressed by a recall by subaru.
P2138 code - throttle issue --- today as i was driving to work, luckily on a side street,when the check engine light came on and the cruise control light began to blink.then i lost power to the engine while it was still running.i normally take the highway to work but this day there was snow and ice so i decided to take the side streets instead.i pressed the gas pedal with no response.i coasted to a side street and turned in with no incident, thank god.i was near a toyota dealership and i asked for their help but they said they did not work on subaru.i was just about to call aaa when i thought to restart the car to see if it would go so i could take it somewhere else.i gave it gas and it went.the check engine light and cruise control was still on.i drove slowly to another service place and they found the code p2138 and said i could drive it but to get it to a dealership as soon as i could.the subaru dealerships are not located in my town and takes 20-30 by highway to get to one of them.i am very unsure of driving on the highway now and have this happening again.i drive the highways a lot in order to fit my daily schedule.this is especially true for me to see elderly mother who lives 30 minutes away by highway.i love my subaru even after having had the typical 2006 problems like head gasket leak and such which i consider acceptable for the mileage i have on her.i had planned on getting another subaru in the future but not having power is extremely scary and will make me shop elsewhere if this is typical. Updated 4/21/16
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving 50 mph, the vehicle stalled and the cruise control and check engine lights illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 140,000. The vin was not available.
While driving on a limit access highway, the check engine light came on and the vehicle immediately went into "limp home" mode. This event nearly resulted in a high speed rear end collision.
Incident happened at a red light in traffic at rush hour.after pulling up to a red light to a full stop, the light turned green and the throttle stuck open at exactly 2500rpm. The car accelerated from a dead stop and continued to do so with no input from me.the gas pedal does nothing at all.i had to apply brakes and move off the road to avoid traffic.check engine light is solid and the cruise control light flashes.
Hi,i'm writing you to to inform you of a safety issue with the 05-09 subaru outback airbag system.the passenger airbag notification board, located in the dome light assembly is assembled with poor quality solders between the board and diodes, this results in failure of the board, this is often seen in lower temperatures when the solders crack due to thermal contraction. When one of these solders fails, it causes 2 issues, 1, the indicator lights don't come on correctly, and 2, the entire airbag system is disabled. This is an issue known to the subaru owners community. My dealer wants about $260 to fix it. Thanks.
Was driving at approx 55 mph when all of a sudden check engine light came on, cruise light was flashing, and sport light was flashing, car slowed down to 10 mph and could not go any faster. It was revved up to redline and there was no response with the gas pedal. I was only 2 miles from my destination, so i limped it there and shut it off. I had it scanned with a code scanner and code "p2138" (throttle position sensor) came up. After much research i found it usually is related to gas pedal assy. It has not yet happened since clearing the code and making sure the plug on the pedal was tight.
2006 subaru outback head gaskets went bad at about 35,000 miles.had to replace those called subaru and they help me get those replaced. Thought all was well soon after, the electrical system including the air conditioner and the heater .then i was told that the airbags were defaulted and to bring it into replace them which i did. The final straw is that they called me again two weeks ago to bring the rigging to replace that same airbag again. I asked them why they gave me a car that wasn't safe. The wheel bearings also wore out very early around 50 miles. This car has been so expensive. And now they informed me that there was a second recall on the airbag. So i bring it in for the second time realizing that now in 2021 this car has not been safe the whole time i've been driving it with my family my daughter learned how to drive in this car and so did my son. As they were repairing the faulty airbag they cracked the dashboard and then informed me that it would be $300 to fix it because it had a tiny crack in it. Please note that they were the ones that took the dashboard off in the first place. Super rude! i called subaru of america and they decided to reimburse me for the dashboard. They were talking about gluing it back together last i heard i'm very much hoping this is not the case my daughter ensures me that it isn't but we'll see. Also he informed me that my head gaskets were leaking again. The mechanic said that this is common once you've had your gaskets replaced. This makes no sense to me. My car has about 160,000 miles on it and it seems like it's already played out and not safe. What a joke. I'll never buy a subaru again.this has been the worst car and apparently the most unsafe car i've ever owned. Note:this car was consistently unsafe while driving for the last 15 years. I bought it because it had a five star rating for safety what a joke!
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While depressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle failed to respond. While driving various speeds, the vehicle stalled and the check engine warning indicator illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact mentioned that the failure occurred intermittently. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 118,341.
My wife was driving our 2006 subaru outback. She was driving in winter conditions. She was driving the 2 mile bridge to our home when the acceleration suddenly failed and the vehicle abruptly slowed from 55 mph to 35 mph.the roads had snow and ice on them.the vehicle behind her closed in on the rear of our subaru and began honking and flashing its lights.the check engine light in our car came on and the cruise control flashed.she was scared by the misfunction.the car revved up above 4000 rpms when she put it into park.she shut the vehicle off and i checked and found an error code.p2138. The accelerator has 2 circuits that relay the desired speed to the car's computer.when the circuits don't match the computer cuts the speed out of the vehicle.i think that the engineering behind this system needs to be re thought so that this doesn't occur.i read other reports online of people in heavy traffic who had near accidents.
While driving down the highway i lost the ability to accelerate forward, meaning my gas pedal stopped working and i began to coast.at the moment i lost the ability to accelerate, my check engine light appeared and my cruise control became disabled.luckily, i was able to safely pull to the side of the road.after turning on and off the engine several times, i was then able to accelerate again. I then went to o'reilly's to have a diagnostics performed, which resulted in code p2138 (throttle pedal position sensor d-e voltage rationality).this problem continues to occur without warning.
Unexpectedly, while driving, the check engine light will come on, the car will idle high, the accelerator pedal will not respond, and the cruise control light will also come on. The car won't move even while pressing down on the accelerator pedal. I have to pull off the road, turn the car off, and wait until the car starts, the idle returns to normal, and the accelerator pedal responds. This has happened once last year and twice this year; the last time being 2/17/17. I was lucky. The first time it happened i was on a country road. The second time was more difficult as i was on a busy city street in winter, and the last time i had a green light and had just gone through an intersection in a suburb and was able to pull off the road.i did bring it to my mechanic who ran the code, which was p2138, the throttle position sensor.i will be getting this repaired. I am very concerned about the severity of this safety issue where the car just stops responding while driving.
Drive-by-wire throttle receives signal error (p2138) and ecu cuts off throttle function. This presents a serious and dangerous condition as the driver is then entirely unable to modulate speed. This error has occurred three times with no warning on the same vehicle, and at various speeds and situations. The latest one occurred on a highway at approximately 60mph where collisions due to disabled throttle were narrowly avoided. This error and the vehicle's ecu response could kill someone.
Rear wiper ceased functioning.the problem was due to broken wire(s) in a wiring harness that passes through a rubber accordion boot between the car body and the tail-gate (near the right-hand tailgate hinge). Many of the other wires, affecting upper brake light, license plate lights, backup lights, and tailgate latch/lock, were frayed and were replaced due to imminent failure of the above listed components.research at an online forum for subaru owners showed that many other owners (of 2005 and 2006 subaru outbacks) have experienced similar failures due to broken wires in this wiring harness. I suspect that it is an under-reported problem.i believe that subaru should be asked to issue a safety recall notice.
While driving down i-25 the car lost all power and had no acceleration. The car would only idle, i noticed a check engine light on. I had the car towed to a repair shop and when the code was read a p2138 that had to do with the accelerator the mechanic said it happens alot with this year subaru. He told me by just shutting the car off and waiting a few minutes it would have driven normal,when he started it again it did drive normal. He sends them to a subaru dealer and tells the people that if enough of us complain or fill in a report then something may be done. This is a very unsafe car if it loses all power driving down the highway!
Broken wires in hatchback portion that affects license plate lights, radio antenna and potentially all taillights.was this way when car was purchased and owner was not notified at time of purchase.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback.the contact statedthat it was difficult to see the dashboard indicators because they did not illuminate.the manufacturer stated that it was a design flaw, and there was nothing that could be done.the current mileagewas 2,600.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving approximately 60 mph, the vehicle drastically decelerated on its own. The vehicle was taken to the dealer (groove subaru, 5300 s broadway cir, englewood, co 80113) where it was diagnosed that the battery failed and needed replacement. The battery was replaced, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 95,000.
When driving our subaru 2006 2.5i outback wagon (4-speed auto w/sport shift) in winter road conditions, we have had multiple instances where the rear of the car begins to float or do mini-fishtails. It feels like the rear wheels are alternately pushing the car back and forth or like there are wind gusts hitting the car.the floating has a rhythmic feel and may continue for many miles until the road conditions change. When the car is 'floating', you sense that any change (steering, gas or braking) will cause you to lose control of the vehicle.and while we have not had an accident yet, it is a truly scary driving sensation and only a matter of time before this causes a serious accident.the only solution i have found is to ease up on gas until you find a speed (usually under 40 mph) where the floating is less pronounced.this is our 9th subaru and we have 18 years experience driving subaru awd vehicles on minnesota winter roads. None of our former cars, up through the 2004 outback, ever behaved in the manner. Please note, not all winter road conditions seem to trigger the problem.i have most frequently experienced the floating when on asphalt road surfaces that are icy or covered in compacted snow or slush.i have had it occur on completely straight roads under steady throttle while traveling under 45 mph.when it occurs, i have always been driving at safe speeds and have noted that other vehicles were passing by at much higher speeds and seemed comfortable and confident with the road conditions.the most serious incident occurred after we had new michelin tires put on and the dealer had completed an alignment.no other parts have been replaced.please note, this is a subaru.your database of vins comes up with the keystone rv manufacturer.this is not correct.
While traveling thru the adirondack region of ny on a sunday afternoon returning home from vt i proceededto pass a vehicle from the center lane into the left lane. Speed was 65mph accelerating to 69mph to pass, not more than 250 ft later our vehicle started to fishtail then head right into numerous 360spins taking out 35 ft or so of guard rail and crunching and damaging almost every side and corner of our outback. Both hands were on the wheel, i did not hit any snow or ice that i am aware of and i was not speeding excessively. Not one of our airbags deployed either!! i am confident there was some sort of mechanical or electrical issue with the stability control of the 2006 outback we were driving and am thankful we were not seriously injured.
I am in my third season driving my 2006 subaru outback to lake tahoe for winter ski season.i've always felt confident driving on snowy or icy roads until my last two trips--christmas 2008, and new year's 2009.on these trips, i experienced very disturbing fishtailing that everyone in the car noticed, and i had to fight to compensate for.this occurred even on long straight sections.each time i had to slow down well below the flow of traffic, and the speed of previous trips.this issue made me wonder about improper tire inflation pressure, so we called the tire dealer, who confirmed this was not the cause.it felt as if the rear wheel traction was overcoming front wheel traction, that made me also wonder whether the all-wheel drive was functioning properly.i also considered weight as a cause, because one day i drove from reno to tahoe with only one passenger, and little cargo, and did not experience the problem.but, the fully loaded vehicle was no different than many trips the previous two seasons, when the fishtailing did not occur, and i could maintain sufficient speed to stay with the flow of traffic.same vehicle, same tires, same loads, same road, same conditions, yet much different performance.i noticed other similar complaints, some of which refer to "ghostwalking."please work on identifying the cause and solution for this issue, to prevent serious accident/injury.thank you.
'06 subaru outback(auto) seems to have handling issues caused by awd system. Some have described it as "ghostwalking", where the rear end of the car shifts side to side when the awd kicks in. Please investigate this problem. Have replaced tires and checked alignment, problem still exists.
2006 subaru outback auto trans. On many occasions the vehicle's rear-end side-steps or oscillates on icy/snow-packed road conditions. This has also been described as "ghost-walking" where it feels like the awd system in the rear is over compensating, leading to the vehicle being uncontrollable. The behavior seems to happen in the 30-40mph range. Although, i prefer not to drive any faster than the road conditions allow, it can be very frightening when other 2wd cars and trucks are passing you going 20mph faster and it's difficult to even keep the car on the road or in a straight line.ihave hadthe alignment checked and had brand-new all season tires installed, with no resolution. The dealer has not found anything wrong.
I own a 2006 subaru outback 2.5 with a manual transmission. This vehicle is an early warning indicator for black ice on the road surface. The outback vehicle has a stability control problem in certain conditions. While driving at constant speed (constant and low throttle position) on a flat road, the back end of the vehicle tends to oscillate from side to side in icy conditions. The vehicle feels like it is going to spin out, although that hasn't happened to me yet. Other vehicles on the road at the same time seem to have adequate traction (2wd, awd, 4wd). The problem is not traction while: 1) cornering under slippery conditions, 2) hard acceleration on ice, or 3) braking on ice. Road conditions that i have experienced the oscillation on are very thin ice (black ice). I suspect there is something wrong with the rear suspension design on my outback. The problem is more prevalent and pronounced when the vehicle has occupants in the rear seats. The stability of this vehicle seems to be marginal and it only takes certain conditions (road and vehicle parameters) to be on the edge of disaster. Subaru released technical service bulletin 05-36-07 which eliminated the positive side of the original toe tolerance for rear tire alignment. I think the vehicle experiences large rear tire toe in when weight is added. I suspect this large rear tire toe in when weight is added contributes to the stability problem in icy conditions i have brand new (jan 2010) hankook ipike w409 studless winter tires. Its not the tires. Those who have not experienced this situation naturally respond by saying it is ice, what are your expecting, just slow down. I have lived in colorado since 1981 and consider myself a competent driver in all weather conditions.please respond as i would like to get this problem fixed if possible...the car just turned 50,000 miles.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving 70 mph, the engine warning indicator illuminated. Shortly after,the engine slowly idled and eventually stalled. The contact stated that the failure was unpredictable. The contact was afraid to drive the vehicle. Once the vehicle stalled, it took over thirty minutes to restart properly. The dealer was notified. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired; however, the contact managed to get a computer code from a local auto parts store while the engine warning indicator was illuminated. The failure code was (p2138). The failure mileage was 110,000.
Throttle failure. While driving throttle completely fails. No acceleration, car will only move at automatic idle speed. Cruise control light flashes, check engine light on. Extremely dangerous -- very lucky it didn't happen in an intersection or while passing another car. Turns out to be common for this model -- my car has 127,000 miles on it.
Sudden deceleration of vehicle. Check engine light comes on and the car goes limp. Vehicle is restartableafter 5 minutes, however the throttle does not work properly afterward and the vehicle will not accelerate normally, thus it drives much slower, and will not go above 60 mph. Problem comes and goes.
I have had two incidents with loss of speed control within the past week on a subaru i just bought. The first i was accelerating from a stoplight when i lost response from the gas pedal and the engine went to a low rpm which allowed me to just barely roll into a nearby parking lot. When throttle control was lost the check engine light came on. After turning the car off and letting it sit a moment i tried to turn it on again, but it wouldn't start. I tried a second time and it started, but the check engine light remained on. The next time i started the car the check engine light had gone off.the second time was nearly identical but driving up a steep hill on a highway around 65 mph. Again throttle control was lost and engine went to low rpm so i could barely progress up the hill at 20-30mph to find a place to pull off, check engine light went on immediately. Before i turned the car off the engine was idling rough, about 2000 rpm. Again it took two tries to start but then i was able to continue with the check engine light still on. After driving it two or three times the next day the check engine light had gone off. In either situation i could have easily been in an accident if i had not been able to pull off quickly, especially in a high speed area as the vehicle could only maintain a low speed due to the low engine rpm (2k-3k). There is no warning before it occurs. I believe there is a fault in the throttle by wire system.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated that while driving at 5 mph, the check engine warning light illuminated, the cruise control flashed and the vehicle stalled. The contact pulled over to the parking lot. The contact restarted the vehicle after few minutes. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the throttle assembly needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 140,000. The vin was not available.
Subaru head gasket has failed.this is a known issue across just about all subaru models with 2.5 engine.if you contact various subaru owners you will see that this head gasket failure is high at an abnormal rate.i am hoping that you investigate and hold the responsible and accountable.this is unacceptable.
Was driving at approx 55 mph when all of a sudden check engine light came on, cruise light was flashing, and sport light was flashing, car slowed down to 10 mph and could not go any faster. It was revved up to redline and there was no response with the gas pedal. I was only 2 miles from my destination, so i limped it there and shut it off. I had it scanned with a code scanner and code "p2138" (throttle position sensor) came up. After much research i found it usually is related to gas pedal assy. It has not yet happened since clearing the code and making sure the plug on the pedal was tight.
While driving on interstate highway, vehicle lost engine power. Electric was still on. Gas pedal did not work. Cel and cruise control lights both blinking. Was able to maintain 15 mph on flat road, and barley any speed on incline. Got off highway near home and shut of engine. Waited and tried to start back up. 30 seconds of cranking, and nothing. Waited another minute and it started. Got home and pulled a p2138 code. Pulled wiring harness off gas pedal and reseated it. Reset the cel and everything has been fine since. Scary situation, especially at 65mph during thanksgiving eve rush-hour.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated that while driving approximately 60 mph, there was a sudden loss of engine power as the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was towed to a dealer where it was diagnosed but the failure was unable to be replicated. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure and current mileage was 125,000. The vin was not available.
Lost all acceleration while driving on interstate in downtown nashville, tn. Check engine light came on at the same time. Car was on and in drive, but gas pedal was unresponsive. Was able to idle to shoulder. When gear was shifted to neutral or park, car would rev up to 2k rpm. While waiting for tow truck, car resumed normal function and check engine light went off. This has happend twice so far, but auto shop unable to diagnose since check engine light does not stay on.
There have been two incidents so far.one was traveling on the freeway at 65mph when the throttle completely stopped responding.the other incident occurred at much lower speeds when turning a corner and the throttle no longer responded.in both cases the car would not accelerate or maintain speed.pressing on the accelerator did not have any effect at all.in both cases the car would "coast" along at whatever speed the engine idling would move it - roughly 15 mph.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving at 70 mph, the accelerator pedal was depressed, but the vehicle failed to accelerate. The vehicle lost power, the cruise control deactivated, and the check engine warning light illuminated. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the throttle position sensor needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 182,000.
Turbo engine on outback ceased to work- could have caused a car fire. Unable to accelerate above 30 mph.
On street, from park with engine idling, car in drive, accelerator pedal dead at first, then high rpm 3000+ withpedal released. No control of engine rpm. Cel and cc illuminated on instrument panel. Put transmission in neutral. Killed ignition switch. Engine shut down. Restarted engine and rpm was normal. Very frightening!found dtc p2138 acc pedal sensor failure. Called subaru support, no such record of failure. Called dealer from which car was purchased, answer was bring car in and will try to repair. This is a serious failure and danger. Please see this failure on google. Many people are reporting the same issue. I am apprehensive to put this car on the road especially with other people in it. An investigation should be pursued in these drive by wire vehicles as this car is. Please take this seriously..thank you
My vehicle only has 40,000 miles on it. It is not shifting properly from 2ns-3rd gear while driving, it jerks pretty hard if cold, i have had numerous brake problems, takes a long time to stop at slow speeds, & i'm having numerous issues with suspension. Balljoints keep clicking while reversing, (control arms,balljoints, bushings, bearings, have all been replaced, etc.) this car has been babied and has almost no miles. It is becoming a money-pitt and nobody wants to fix it.
Just received "takata recall" letter stating there are now sufficient parts available. At the same time my check engine light came on and cruise light started flashing. I made an appointment for the recall work and to have the car checked out. I googled this and found that a code p2138 is found with this occurrence and it seems to be happening with many of these vehicles. My wife called me on her way home from work and said the car would not accelerate. She pulled off of the highway into a parking lot. I drove to her location. She started the car and gas pedal seemed to be operating as it should. I followed her home and was thankful there were no problems getting back. I will determine whether to drive vehicle or have it towed to dealer for scheduled appt. Next wed.kind of makes sense now because when i drove the car the day before to get gas, there was hesitation when accelerating, which i found unusual, as the car runs great with plenty of power.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving various speeds, the check engine indicator illuminated and the cruise control warning indicator began to flash. As a result, the contact mentioned that the vehicle failed to accelerate. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the accelerator pedal failed and needed to be replaced. In addition, the accelerator position sensor and the epm were also replaced. The failure recurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 77,000.
When driving on the highway at 75mph the engine light and cruise control light came on and the accelerator became unresponsive.after pulling over and restarting the car it worked fine.this has happened 7 times so far and after reading many posts on outback forums it seems that this is a very common and dangerous problem that needs to be figured out by subaru.
While driving down i-25 the car lost all power and had no acceleration. The car would only idle, i noticed a check engine light on. I had the car towed to a repair shop and when the code was read a p2138 that had to do with the accelerator the mechanic said it happens alot with this year subaru. He told me by just shutting the car off and waiting a few minutes it would have driven normal,when he started it again it did drive normal. He sends them to a subaru dealer and tells the people that if enough of us complain or fill in a report then something may be done. This is a very unsafe car if it loses all power driving down the highway!
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. When the contact depressed the accelerator pedal, the vehicle failed to respond and the check engine indicator illuminated. The failure occurred multiple times. The dealer was unable to diagnose the cause of the failure. The manufacturer was notified. The approximate failure mileage was 68,000.
Found coolant black and possible overheating from head gasket failure in result radiator was exposed to high heat and cracked. Combustion pressure had entered cooling system and caused over pressure of cooling system. Recommend leak down and compression check of engine to determine if internal damage has occurred. Customer has two options, replacement of head gaskets if no other findings internal are found or replacement of engine complete. Turbo may also be damaged and needs inspection also.replace rear brake rotors and pads, lube back of pads and hardware pins with anti squeak paste. Adjust emergency brake system to factory spec. Road test for noise and seat new pads to rotors.
Happened twice in one week. All of sudden, accelerator not responsive and lost of power. Check engine light comes on and cruise flashing. After turning on and off or stay off for a night, lights went out themselves. Error code p2138 accelerator position sensor. Check sensor no obvious loose on connector. Press connect on and no issue so far. It seems the connector too close to the floor and easy to kicked or touched by foot. \car was bought in buffalo west herr subaru and used in toronto.
Both head gaskets failed and had to be replaced at 78,063 miles.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the vehicle suddenly decelerated and the check engine light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to several independent mechanics who were unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was not notified. The vin was not available. The failure mileage was 45,000.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated that while driving at 40 mph, the engine rpms increased. In addition, the check engine and the cruise control warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the throttle pedal position sensor needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 132,000.
Check engine light no. 1 piston defective engine replaced covered by warranty. 2nd engine & turbo failure at 94,591 miles nov 10 2010 not covered by warranty we paid $5005.00 in repair bills there was coolant, oil, & other fluid loss & a lot of smoke. The 3rd engine & turbo failure august 2012 diagnosis by international auto/subaru showed no.1 piston came loose also there was check engine light in all 3 incidents we were told $9000.00 to start we said no had it towed to our driveway where it sits now it has 136,000 miles on it. Also there was an oil pump failure 121,115 miles $495.00 11/22/2011. Also $853.87 to repair a serious oil leak at 96,650 miles 11/26/2010,front & rear control arm bushings replaced split 96,647 miles $482.33 ,right& left rear wheel bearings failure replaced 118,072 miles 10/12/2011 $897.49.
My 2006 subaru outback has had a code p2138 issue for over two months now. In many cases i am in the car with my 4 year old son and end up being in danger for no reason. Loosing 99% of power while going to school or to the store. All attempts to fix this issue have not worked and the car itself is thought of as a death trap in our house. Subaru disregards the code and offers no fix. Please issue a recall. Lives are at risk.
About 4 weeks ago, on late saturday morning, driving down the interstate, from richmond, va my car caught on fire in hampton. The car jolted a little and would not accelerate. Pulled to the side of the road, smoke became visible, but the temperature gauge was not running high. A witness ran toward the car yelling to get out of the car because it was on fire. Even though 2 fire trucks were on the scene, it took a little while to extinguish the fire and everything under the hood was burnt to a crisp. Unfortunately, it was not recoverable. Are you aware of what may have possibly caused this to happen?
The cruise and check engine lights flash. Car looses power and stalls while driving.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving 50 mph, the vehicle stalled and the cruise control and check engine lights illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 140,000. The vin was not available.
Ringland issue once again another ringland issue this is with my 2006 subaru outback xt. Yes, this car is out of warranty but has been driven gently by a grandmother and serviced with the precision of a formula race car. Why has subaru not just come out and said yes our vehicles from 2005-2006 were garbage and the ringlands were junk. I can't believe i am even thinking about replacing a stock ringland on a vechicle...no other car....none has had as many issues with ringlands as subaru. Car is now experiencing misfires, and some loss of oil as loss of power...compression in cylinders is now down to 30% so this is not a catastrophic failure...this is a defect a manufactures defect or a metallurgical defect and they really need to take care of this and make it right for older customers...we are all just sitting on ticking bombs. Love ya guys and stay classy
Our 2006 subaru outback needs the head gaskets and rear main seal replaced. The vehicle has been maintained to manufacturer recommendations. This seems to be a common issue for the 2.5 engine and should be recalled.
Driving along - check engine light comes on and cruise control light flashes. I immediately lose acceleration - need to pull over (thank god i was not on a major highway when this accurs). Have to turn car off - wait a few minutes and then restart. Lights still stay on but acceleration is normal. I have seen many different reason codes for this problem - i am now taking to my personal mechanic to have him go over it and hopefully fix this. Very, very scary situation when it happens. Do not think i should have to take my life in my hands when i drive this vehicle!!! one would think that a reputable company like subaru would stand behind this dangerous flaw with their product and correct the issue!!!
Slowing at intersection to make a right turn when check-engine-light came on.cruise control light started flashing (vehicle was not in cruise control at the time)accelerator pedal became unresponsive (could get no acceleration out of the car when pressing the pedal) and was barely able to get through intersection to turn.after a minute or so was able to get enough power to run at about 10mph tops with hazards on to get a location where i could pull over out of traffic.car would not start immediately after (three cranks with no response)after a few minutes, though, it restarted and seemed to operate normally, no problems with speed.diagnostic code was p2138 (throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "a"/"b" voltage correlation.
I recently had p2138.. One time. No throttle response, stopped on a hill on a 2 lane road, on a curve, in big sur.. Not good. Rolled backwards down hill after the ones behind had all passed me. Turned off car, waited for 10 minutes, then it fixed itself after a restart. Jiggled the pedal connector and it has been gone for the last 2 weeks while waiting for my mechanic to have room in his schedule to replace my throttle pedal (which has a pedal position sensor), two days from now.
While driving the vehicle stopped accelerating and shut down .was told that the pedal assembly and sensorsstopped working.this malfunction can kill people.other have has low mileage on the vehicle and have the car shut down while driving.
In the summer of 2011 i was driving on the highway at approx 75mph. All of a sudden temp gauge made a big jump into the red zone and the engine started making loud upsetting sounds.pulled off the highway and right at the exit lost power steering and the car died.car was diagnosed with blown head gaskets and cracked engine block. The entire engine was replaced under warranty (approx $8000 replacement).fast forward to june 2014. The new engine did exactly the same thing. Temperature shot up on the highway, engine died, head gaskets once again have blown.this new engine was four years old and had only 30,000 miles on it. Car has had regular oil changes and service throughout its lifetime.i am currently having my situation reviewed by subaru of america. I am hoping they will cover the repair costs.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 25 mph, the vehicle failed to accelerate. The contact also stated that the check engine and the cruise control warning lights illuminated. The failure occurred on multiple occasions. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 96,000.
No warning lights. No precussors. Vehicle purchased 5/13 w 86k on it. Dealer hides behind 'as is' or expensive warranty after bragging about 'award winning dealership'. First oil change at 90896 in 8/13= forced dealer to replace head gasket-leaking-smelled oil on test drive-dealer poo-poo'd as recent oil change prior to sale. I paid for timing belt.10/13-car died pulling into driveway with horrendous knocking sound. 2 qualified mechanics checked my car in driveway-saw metallic sheen in oil, oil dipstick at proper level.car towed back to above 'award winning dealer'. Service accuses me of over filling oil- it was never touched by anyone other than them on 8/13, then tells me engine must have been run with no oil causing damage.(car due now for next oil change)have forced them to recheck timing belt function-they have ruled that out and state most likely a rod or two shot in lower engine.no help offered to me. Possession of car by me-less than 6 months &less than 10k miles, paid 11thousand. Towing it to a non-dealerdependable local subaru guy for replacement engine.do not buy asis. Do not buy expensive extended warranties. Insist greedy dealerships put their mouths where there trophy showcases are and make it right!!!i have owned subarus for over 2 decades....no more if their engines continue to fail leaving loyal customers high and dry.going back to toyota, or maybe even hyundai!i work in the medical field and i will negatively speak loud and often about this dealer to hundreds of people whether directly or indirectly so anyone and everyone can hear.now off to social media to disseminate my treatment there as well.
Unexpectedly, while driving, the check engine light will come on, the car will idle high, the accelerator pedal will not respond, and the cruise control light will also come on. The car won't move even while pressing down on the accelerator pedal. I have to pull off the road, turn the car off, and wait until the car starts, the idle returns to normal, and the accelerator pedal responds. This has happened once last year and twice this year; the last time being 2/17/17. I was lucky. The first time it happened i was on a country road. The second time was more difficult as i was on a busy city street in winter, and the last time i had a green light and had just gone through an intersection in a suburb and was able to pull off the road.i did bring it to my mechanic who ran the code, which was p2138, the throttle position sensor.i will be getting this repaired. I am very concerned about the severity of this safety issue where the car just stops responding while driving.
While driving at speed - city street 45mph -- lost ability to throttle. No throttle, engine, or acceleration response when pressing gas pedal. Check engine and cruise lights blinking. After pulling over, turned off engine.upon restarting after a minute, throttle capability returned. This has happened twice, unexpectedly.
Four times in one month prior theabove date, this vehicle stopped running in traffic. It would not restart. Most importantly, the automatic transmission could not be taken out of gear and put into park!!in addition, the emergency brake failed to properly keep the vehicle from rolling in traffic.the most recent time this happened, the driver was in heavy traffic on a hill and the emergency brake again did not properly hold the vehicle.the driver had to open her door, exit the vehicle in order to physically stop it from rolling downhill in traffic and was nearly ran over by a passing semi trailer truck.this is a well maintained vehicle, often through the dealer it was purchased from.during this time, the vehicle was towed twice to the dealer.they diagnosed the problem as being caused by electronic computer parts malfunction. After these expensive and possibly unnecessary repairs the problem still persisted.the vehicle continued to stop for no reason in traffic and would not restart.each time this happened, the vehicle could not be taken out of gear and put into park!!i know of no other vehicle where this type of problem has happened.after the latest breakdown, upon inspection, the dealer located a section of wire loom that had worn bare and possibly had caused a short in the electrical system.this worn spot in the wire loom may have tripped up the logic in the vehicle computer and been the reason the driver could not put the vehicle in park after breaking down in traffic.if this electrical wire loom caused this "malfunction", it would put anyone in this vehicle in a position where there is great potential for serious injury, or death.this problem should be looked into by your department in order to make sure this does not happen again to someone else.
While driving on a limit access highway, the check engine light came on and the vehicle immediately went into "limp home" mode. This event nearly resulted in a high speed rear end collision.
The contact owns 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated while driving 55 mph the vehicle stalled causing the vehicle to lose power. The check engine light illuminated and the cruisecontrol indicator started to flash. The contact shifted into neutral gear and drove the vehicle onto the side of the road and turned the vehicle off.the contact was able to restart the vehicle and it began to function normally but the check engine light and cruise control light remained on. The contact has scheduled an appointment with the dealer for diagnostic testing. The contact stated the vehicle could have caused a crash to occur. The failure mileage was 49,731.updated 07/26/11updated 3/20/12
Subaru has recall on wheel bearings and state my outback does not fit into recall. However it is the same part that has failed, yet they state they fixed the problem. Headgasket is leaking at 125,000, subaru states replacement gaskets are better however i am expected to pay 2000 for the repair.
After slowing to a near stop at the bottom of an interstate highway exit ramp, my car suddenly, and without warning, died and i lost all systems, including engine and power steering.all i was able to do was drift to the side of the road. Subaru initiallybelieved that the ecm had failed.after replacing the ecm, it became apparent that that was not the issue.subaru ultimately determined that the wiring harness housing had melted against the coolant crossover pipe, exposing wiring which was then shorting out.subaru could give me no explanation as to why the wiring harness was installed against a hot component of my engine such that it would melt.had this happened 1 minute earlier, i would have been on interstate 95 during rush hour traffic with a dead car.given the suddenness with which my car died, it is likely i would have been involved in a serious accident.
Incident happened at a red light in traffic at rush hour.after pulling up to a red light to a full stop, the light turned green and the throttle stuck open at exactly 2500rpm. The car accelerated from a dead stop and continued to do so with no input from me.the gas pedal does nothing at all.i had to apply brakes and move off the road to avoid traffic.check engine light is solid and the cruise control light flashes.
Engine lost power and had to pull to side of road. Retrieved error code p2138 (accelerator pedal position sensor) from (dlc) data link connector in car.
2006 subaru outback. Consumer writes in regards to a dispute involving the catastrophic failure of the turbo in vehicle *tgwthe consumer stated the cost to repair the turbo was $ 6,508. The dealer confirmed that the machined surfaces and bearings in the engine were in excellent condition. The consumer believed the turbo was defective.
Rear wiper ceased functioning.the problem was due to broken wire(s) in a wiring harness that passes through a rubber accordion boot between the car body and the tail-gate (near the right-hand tailgate hinge). Many of the other wires, affecting upper brake light, license plate lights, backup lights, and tailgate latch/lock, were frayed and were replaced due to imminent failure of the above listed components.research at an online forum for subaru owners showed that many other owners (of 2005 and 2006 subaru outbacks) have experienced similar failures due to broken wires in this wiring harness. I suspect that it is an under-reported problem.i believe that subaru should be asked to issue a safety recall notice.
This is not something specific to just my car but is what i consider a fault for the whole car model. My complaint is that the headlight is hard-wired on. That's ok, but poses a problem at night as one can see that the headlight is on, not realizing that the taillights are not on. You start the car and drive off not realizing that the back of the car is not visible. There is no alert (such as no or dimmed dashboard lights) to let you know that the back of the car cannot be seen in the dark. Not only have i made this mistake many times, but i have also noticed other drivers of my car make and model doing the same thing. I think this is a safety hazard and could be remedied by having the taillights be hard-wired as well or by having no dash lights unless the actual headlights are turned on.
I have a 2006 subaru outback wagon. The low-beam headlights do not project more than about 40' in front of the vehicle. I was driving at night on highway 108 between sonora and jamestown, california. There was a pedestrian walking on the side of the road and i was not able to see him until i was less than 40' away. There was great potential for hitting the pedestrian, luckily he was off the road. This is just one incident where i felt my headlights fail. Any time i drive at night, i have limited visibility to the front of me, which means i cannot see potholes or animals in the road. All other people who have driven or ridden in my car at night are shocked by the lack of visibility with the low-beams. As much as possible, i drive with my high-beams on at night, but often this is not possible due to other traffic on the road. The low-beam headlights are not adjustable by any mechanic, the problem is not alleviated by installing brighter bulbs, and this visibility issue has been reported in many complaints. Please search the internet for complaints of this problem in 2005, 2006 subaru models. It is a major safety hazard, and subaru should be forced to manufacture replacement low beam housings to rectify the issue.
Dt:2006 subaru outback.the contact states the low beam headlights are not focused properly.he states it is like driving in a tunnel.subaru states there is nothing wrong with the vehicle and there is nothing they can do.
My wife was driving our 2006 subaru outback. She was driving in winter conditions. She was driving the 2 mile bridge to our home when the acceleration suddenly failed and the vehicle abruptly slowed from 55 mph to 35 mph.the roads had snow and ice on them.the vehicle behind her closed in on the rear of our subaru and began honking and flashing its lights.the check engine light in our car came on and the cruise control flashed.she was scared by the misfunction.the car revved up above 4000 rpms when she put it into park.she shut the vehicle off and i checked and found an error code.p2138. The accelerator has 2 circuits that relay the desired speed to the car's computer.when the circuits don't match the computer cuts the speed out of the vehicle.i think that the engineering behind this system needs to be re thought so that this doesn't occur.i read other reports online of people in heavy traffic who had near accidents.
Same symptom happened twice: once just after starting from a service area on the interstate, the second on suburban roads i describe here.during a normal 30 mile suburban trip, after about 20 miles the vehicle suddenly lost power and the check engine light came on.the engine continued running but the accelerator pedal seemed to have no control over the engine speed or power.after coasting to a stop and turning the engine off for a minute the car started and ran normally, though the check engine light stayed on for a day or so.when we took the vehicle to the dealer after the first incident they were not able to interpret the check engine codes; after the second incident they found a p2138 code -- "accelerator position sensor" failure.they replaced the accelerator assembly and the vehicle seems to be running correctly again.as i understand it the issue is a failure in the accelerator position sensor: there are dual sensors in the assembly and if their readings differ the accelerator pedal is effectively "disconnected" and the driver loses all power. I believe this is a serious safety issue: the failure could just as well have taken place at high speed on the interstate without the possibility of a safe stop, and having the first indication of trouble being "losing all power" is not acceptable.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback wagon.the contact smelled a strong gasoline odor inside the passenger compartment of the vehicle.an independent mechanic was unable to determine the exact source of the odor.when utilizing the heater or defrost system, the odor became overpowering.while traveling on the highway at various speeds, the odor was not as strong, yet still present.no repairs have been made.the failure mileage was 80,903 and current mileage was 90,198.
Sudden loss of accelerator control in traffic. Cannot rev engine or maintain speed above 600 rpm/5 mph; barely idling. Codes on ecu indicate throttle body positioning sensor failure. Eventually had to replace throttle body to resolve problem.
I was parked in a shopping mall parking lot.when i started the engine and pulled out of the parking space the gas pedal was unresponsive.i just rolled along with no power.the check engine light came on and i rolled into another parking space.i read in the owner's manual that it could be an emission control problem or something to do with the gas cap.i took the gas cap off and re-seated it and when i tried to start the car again on the third try, the check engine light went off and the car had power again and the gas pedal was responsive.i took it to my mechanic and he found the code to be p3128.i was fortunate that this did not happen while i was on the highway or anywhere in busy traffic.i had the entire throttle/pedal assembly replaced at a cost of aprox. $500 and hope that this solves the problem.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback.after starting the vehicle in colder weather, he smells a strong odor of gasoline. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for inspection.no repairs were made. The failure mileage was 20,000.the current mileage was 30,000.updated 02/17/10. *ljupdated 02/18/10
While driving 70mph in the fast lane down the highway i turned cruise control on. As soon as the cruise control was engaged all throttle was lost. While in motion i put the car in neutral then back into drive and nothing happened. The car was decelerating so i pulled off the highway. Once safely on the side of the road i turned the car off for several minutes and then back on. The acceleration capability returned but the check engine light was on. I took the car to a mechanic to read the code which came back as the throttle control sensor. This is a very dangerous defect and should be addressed by subaru america.
I was accelerating to get on the freeway entrance in my subaru outback (with my wife and two small children) when i notice a complete loss in throttle response.the car was just barely moving due to the engine idle.check engine light came on.i drove at that pace to a parking lot to check my options.i had not noted, until now, that this car has no throttle cable and is completely drive-by-wire.i looked at the connection of wire harness to the pedal assembly and did not see any red flags - no corrosion, etc.it appeared to be in good shape. I shut the car off, waited about 30 sec, and restarted it.it then got us home.when i got home tonight, i ran my obd diagnostic tool and got a p2138 error code.this is listed as "throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "d"/"e" voltage correlation" trouble code description.i am going to check into my options tomorrow, but felt this was worth reporting since it appears there are others out there that have experienced this problem as well.there is definitely a safety concern with a failure of this nature as i was traveling at a good rate and in traffic.luckily, everyone is ok - but my wife and i worry when this will happen again.thanks.
Happened twice in one week. All of sudden, accelerator not responsive and lost of power. Check engine light comes on and cruise flashing. After turning on and off or stay off for a night, lights went out themselves. Error code p2138 accelerator position sensor. Check sensor no obvious loose on connector. Press connect on and no issue so far. It seems the connector too close to the floor and easy to kicked or touched by foot. \car was bought in buffalo west herr subaru and used in toronto.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving, the check engine warning indicator illuminated. The vehicle was taken to bertera subaru (499 riverdale st, west springfield, ma 01089, (413) 734-4964) and a smoke test was completed. The contact was informed by the technician that a new fuel tank was needed. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact had previously taken the vehicle to the same dealer. At that times, a smoke test was completed and the fuel cap was replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that they would provide a small allowance towards the repair or towards a new or used vehicle. The approximate failure mileage was 153,000. The vin was not available.
I experienced my gas pedal no longer working while driving, car was driving well, on a residential street going about 25 mph, then there was suddenly no gas/acceleration, had to coast to a stop. The check engine light came on, cruise control light was flashing. About 2 hours later the car was running normal again. The diagnosis code given was p2138 throttle/pedal position sensor/switch d/e voltage correlation. It is very scary and unsafe to suddenly not have power while driving, will be driving on the outside lane until the problem is fixed to i can get out of traffic safely.
I was driving on the interstate and when i got onto the exit ramp, the vehicle gas pedal stopped working and the check engine light came on along with flashing cruise control light.i coasted into a dealership with hazard lights on at about 10mph. Diagnosis was a faulty accelerator pedal sensor.this could have been very dangerous if i was in heavy traffic or still on the interstate.car only has 53,000 miles on it.
Vehicle lost power and control abruptly while driving at freeway speed.this is a serious safety issue.this happened twice over a two week period.lucky to have avoided rear end collisions both times as i was traveling in the right hand lane. If i had been in middle or left lane there would definitely have been serious multiple vehicle collisions on a densely crowded i5 where people don't leave safe following distances.took vehicle to independent subaru shop and found error code p2138= accel. Pedal sensor circuit.replaced accel pedal sensor for $269.
While driving on interstate highway, vehicle lost engine power. Electric was still on. Gas pedal did not work. Cel and cruise control lights both blinking. Was able to maintain 15 mph on flat road, and barley any speed on incline. Got off highway near home and shut of engine. Waited and tried to start back up. 30 seconds of cranking, and nothing. Waited another minute and it started. Got home and pulled a p2138 code. Pulled wiring harness off gas pedal and reseated it. Reset the cel and everything has been fine since. Scary situation, especially at 65mph during thanksgiving eve rush-hour.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving 25 mph, the vehicle would not accelerate while the accelerator pedal was being depressed. The engine warning indicator illuminated. After the vehicle was stopped, the contact had to open the fuel cover, open and close the fuel cap, close the fuel cover, and start the engine to continue driving. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 155,000.
There have been two incidents so far.one was traveling on the freeway at 65mph when the throttle completely stopped responding.the other incident occurred at much lower speeds when turning a corner and the throttle no longer responded.in both cases the car would not accelerate or maintain speed.pressing on the accelerator did not have any effect at all.in both cases the car would "coast" along at whatever speed the engine idling would move it - roughly 15 mph.
The first incident with this car was me putting the transmission into park after stopping at a gas station and the rpms suddenly shot up to 2000. After filling the tank, i tried to start it but it wouldn't turn over. I let it sit for a moment and then tried again and it started with now the "check engine light" on and "cruise" flashing. The lights self-corrected later that day before i could have the code read. The next incident i was in a left hand turn lane with a green arrow. The check engine light and cruise came on and i suddenly lost the use of the gas pedal. It was completely limp. No matter how hard i pressed on it the car just moved along at idle speed, less than 5 mph. I barely made it through the intersection before i lost the green arrow. I pulled over, put it in park, the rpms went to 2000, then i turned it off. Tried starting it again and it wouldn't turn over. Tried it a second time and it fired right up and the gas pedal functioned properly. The check engine light and cruise were on again. I took it to an auto parts store to have the code read and it came up with p2138, an issue with the throttle position sensor. These incidents occurred twice more before i was able to get a proper diagnosis from a mechanic and they occurred anywhere from one to two weeks apart. This is a potentially very dangerous issue with these cars and should be addressed by a recall by subaru.
Three times i have lost all acceleration while in motion, with the car and engine slowing to idle speed even though the accelerator is depressed. This occurred twice on two-lane highways and once in my driveway. In all cases, the car returned to normal after being turned off for a short time and restarted. My mechanic is looking into a possible electronic throttle issue. In searching the internet, i find this is not an uncommon problem with 2006 outbacks and other subarus. This is a dangerous condition that could prove deadly if it happens on a busy highway and subaru should address it.
While driving my 2006 subaru outback down the highway, the accelerator became non-responsive.i was traveling at above 65 mph and lost power.the service engine soon (ses) light came on and the cruise control light started flashing.i had to pull over to the side of the road.the car was still running at idle but nothing would happen when pushing the accelerator.i turned car off and waited for 15-20 minutes and restarted the car.the accelerator pedal then seemed to work as normal.my husband read the ses code (p2138 throttle position sensor).he checked the wiring connection at the foot pedal and it seemed fine.he reset the code with his code reader. The car drove fine with no issues for about 3-4 weeks but then had the same issue recur.this is a safety issue as i was very lucky i wasn't in the middle of a lot of traffic when this occurred.if i was i was pretty much a sitting duck as the car wouldn't move.i had to coast to the side of the road.there are quite of few other people on the internet that mention they have encountered this issue however most of them don't mention they reported the issue.
I was driving when the accelerator pedal stopped responding.i couldn't accelerate or maintain speed.the check engine light was now on and the cruise control light was flashing.i pulled over and the idle was at 2,000 rpms and the accelerator pedal was still not responding.i turned off the engine for about 5 minutes.when i turned it back on, the accelerator was working but the check engine light was on and the cruise control light was flashing.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving approximately 60 mph, the vehicle drastically decelerated on its own. The vehicle was taken to the dealer (groove subaru, 5300 s broadway cir, englewood, co 80113) where it was diagnosed that the battery failed and needed replacement. The battery was replaced, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 95,000.
Driving on the highway, the check engine light came on soon followed by the flashing cruise control light. At the point, the car became no longer responsive to the accelerator. I was forced to pull over because after breaking, i couldn't speed back up. Turning the car off and on again did not solve the problem. When i turned the car on the engine revved at a high speed with the cruise control light still flashing. I eventually had to get the car towed.
Incident initially started in february, went to accelerate after starting car in the am, did not respond, cel and flashing cruise button came on, engine seemed to idle and wouldn't respond to trying to accelerate again. Turned engine off, tried to turn back on, would not start. Repeated process with starting 2-3 times until started again. Cel and flashing cruise remained on for a couple days, took to repair garage and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong on the diagnostic run. This has continued to occur off and on for the last several months. I have taken it to 2 different shops who could never find anything wrong with the car or get it to reproduce when they drove it, and then to dealer 2 weeks ago, they replaced throttle body and did a fuel injector service. Again, this morning, accelerating at 30-40 mph in start/stop traffic, could not accelerate at 30 mph, engine started to rev, pulled over to side, shut off engine, repeated 2 more times, again cel and flashing cruise. These lights are still on but car drove normally. Very frustrated as i cannot get it to reproduce for shop or for dealership because it happens so erratically.
While driving down the road, lost ability to accelerate, throttle failed to respond. This has happened 4 separate times now. Replaced accelerator assembly, but problem still continues without notice. Intermittent problem.
Today i came to a complete stop at a red light. When the light turned green and i accelerated, my vehicle began to sputter out. I tried to pull over but my car had no power. It began to sputter then died in the middle of the road. I was stranded at 9am on broadway with my 1.5 year old and 2 week old. I tried to start my car multiple times for 8 minutes until one attempt it turned over, this time with my check engine light and cruise control light flashing. It limped around for a while as i took it to a shop i was told the code read 'throttle positioning sensor'. Which i can't seem to find anything about let alone find it in a store or online. This experience has been frightening and dangerous and i have lost utter faith in my subaru.
Gas pedal quits working leaving my daughter stranded, must be in the drive by wire electrical system, looking at forums, this is a common issue.
In the 2006 subaru outback 3.0 the throttle is controlled electronically.this failed on me while driving at 70 mph down the freeway.the gas peddle stopped responding.i could not accelerate or maintain speed.i had to pull over.after about 1 minute i restarted the car and the throttle started to respond again.my check engine light is now on and the cruise control light is blinking.this is a safety hazard and needs a fix.after reviewing many forums, it doesn't sound like subaru knows what is causing the issue.but there are some "recommendations".
I was traveling on a 3-lane highway at the posted mileage (60 mph).simultaneously the check engine light came on and the gas pedal lost all power.the cruise light was also flashing.i tried flooring the gas pedal, but the vehicle continued to lose power and the speed rapidly decreased to less than 20 mph.this happened with absolutely no warning and no time to get off a busy thoroughfare.this occurred at approximately 3:00 pm, so fortunately the traffic was not extremely heavy.i was able to cut across 2 lanes of traffic that was going 60 mph +, exit on an off-ramp, and get to a safe location to call for a tow truck to take the vehicle to dealership for repair.the outcome was code p2138 (accelerator sensor).the sensor was replaced at a cost of $340.i purchased this vehicle new in 2006, and have kept it well maintained at the dealership per their service schedule.however, until this problem occurs, there?s no doubt it would have ever been caught by the dealer to repair. This is extremely dangerous because it could have caused a serious injury to me and other drivers.if it had been at another time, i could have been rear-ended by drivers going the posted speed limit.
While driving lost all power, got off road ,engine still run but would not move, finally,restarted and got home, checked codes,p2138 came up.this is a big safety concern,have read reports of this happening to others. What has subaru done to correctbig safety problem!!! has this become a recall.now scared to drive.
At highway speed the vehicle suddenly lost power. The check engine light came on solid with the cruise control light blinking. The car did not respond to any inputs from the accelerator pedal and began to decelerate. Upon stopping and shifting into neutral the car held itself around 2800rpm with no accelerator input from the driver. After reading the check engine light code, the car gave a p2138 indicating a problem with the pedal position sensor.
Unexpectedly, while driving, the check engine light will come on, the car will idle high, the accelerator pedal will not respond, and the cruise control light will also come on. The car won't move even while pressing down on the accelerator pedal. I have to pull off the road, turn the car off, and wait until the car starts, the idle returns to normal, and the accelerator pedal responds. This has happened once last year and twice this year; the last time being 2/17/17. I was lucky. The first time it happened i was on a country road. The second time was more difficult as i was on a busy city street in winter, and the last time i had a green light and had just gone through an intersection in a suburb and was able to pull off the road.i did bring it to my mechanic who ran the code, which was p2138, the throttle position sensor.i will be getting this repaired. I am very concerned about the severity of this safety issue where the car just stops responding while driving.
I was driving on the highway traveling about 70 miles per hour in the mountains of colorado when my car's accelerator stopped working. I was on a sharp downhill curve when i was no longer able to accelerate my car to keep up with traffic.this was extremely dangerous as i was almost hit by the cars behind me. There was no warning prior to the incident.
The cruise and check engine lights flash. Car looses power and stalls while driving.
While my 2006 subaru outback was at the dealer for the expanded takata recall, they notified me that they found a leak in my gas tank.i have found several people complaining about this online and can't imagine why this is not being addressed as a safety concern.
I recently had p2138.. One time. No throttle response, stopped on a hill on a 2 lane road, on a curve, in big sur.. Not good. Rolled backwards down hill after the ones behind had all passed me. Turned off car, waited for 10 minutes, then it fixed itself after a restart. Jiggled the pedal connector and it has been gone for the last 2 weeks while waiting for my mechanic to have room in his schedule to replace my throttle pedal (which has a pedal position sensor), two days from now.
Subaru dealership refused to discuss safety issue recalls selling vehicle with open safety recalls and other safety issues that could have been easily remedied. The vehicle had been in for service and problems were not addressed. Dealership claims "sold as is" and buyer beware, after we had leased a new 2019 vehicle and purchased a like new used vehicle that had gone through their extensive multipoint inspections. Issues for air bags, fuel system leaking, potential fire and explosion, faulty seat latches as safety recall.dealership has violated trust and exhibited no concern for anyone's safety. We can not trust this dealership for repair or service of our vehicles.
My vehicle lost all ability to accelerate while driving on the freeway. I had to coast into the emergency lane, which was a wall of snow in colorado at this time of year. Blocking traffic in the slow lane, i waited for a tow to my subaru dealer. They told me that my pedal accelerator assembly had failed. After repairs, i experienced the same problem 2 weeks later. This time they are stating that my electronic throttle body has failed. I have researched carcomplaints.com and see that i am one of over 50 consumers that have experienced this problem.
My wife was driving the vehicle when the check engine light came on. The cruise light started flashing. The gas pedal was non functioning. She was able to cost to a safe place. When i arrived the car was running. The gas pedal was unresponsive. I shut the car off and took her to work. An hour later i returned to the car and tried to start it. It took several seconds to start, but did. The gas pedal worked. The check engine light was on steady and the cruise control was flashing. I was able to get the car home. Today 10/20/12 the car has no symptoms. This could have been very scary as my wife was driving on the busiest street in montana during the morning commute.
Sudden deceleration of vehicle. Check engine light comes on and the car goes limp. Vehicle is restartableafter 5 minutes, however the throttle does not work properly afterward and the vehicle will not accelerate normally, thus it drives much slower, and will not go above 60 mph. Problem comes and goes.
When coming to a stop, our subaru outback shudders and stalls out. This happens on various occasions and has become a bit of a safety concern when stopping in traffic. On february 6th 2017, i went to our local subaru service center and they inspect the car and explained that they need to replace the torque converter and associate components and this was validated by a service bulletin tsb #16-90-13r . They explained to us that the cost to repair/replace the torque convert would be $1546 dollars plus taxes. I see this more of a manufactures defect and a safety issue that needs to be address as a recall. Our vehicle has 96,404 mile as of this date and is well maintain with all service records available.
Four times in one month prior theabove date, this vehicle stopped running in traffic. It would not restart. Most importantly, the automatic transmission could not be taken out of gear and put into park!!in addition, the emergency brake failed to properly keep the vehicle from rolling in traffic.the most recent time this happened, the driver was in heavy traffic on a hill and the emergency brake again did not properly hold the vehicle.the driver had to open her door, exit the vehicle in order to physically stop it from rolling downhill in traffic and was nearly ran over by a passing semi trailer truck.this is a well maintained vehicle, often through the dealer it was purchased from.during this time, the vehicle was towed twice to the dealer.they diagnosed the problem as being caused by electronic computer parts malfunction. After these expensive and possibly unnecessary repairs the problem still persisted.the vehicle continued to stop for no reason in traffic and would not restart.each time this happened, the vehicle could not be taken out of gear and put into park!!i know of no other vehicle where this type of problem has happened.after the latest breakdown, upon inspection, the dealer located a section of wire loom that had worn bare and possibly had caused a short in the electrical system.this worn spot in the wire loom may have tripped up the logic in the vehicle computer and been the reason the driver could not put the vehicle in park after breaking down in traffic.if this electrical wire loom caused this "malfunction", it would put anyone in this vehicle in a position where there is great potential for serious injury, or death.this problem should be looked into by your department in order to make sure this does not happen again to someone else.
The first incident with this car was me putting the transmission into park after stopping at a gas station and the rpms suddenly shot up to 2000. After filling the tank, i tried to start it but it wouldn't turn over. I let it sit for a moment and then tried again and it started with now the "check engine light" on and "cruise" flashing. The lights self-corrected later that day before i could have the code read. The next incident i was in a left hand turn lane with a green arrow. The check engine light and cruise came on and i suddenly lost the use of the gas pedal. It was completely limp. No matter how hard i pressed on it the car just moved along at idle speed, less than 5 mph. I barely made it through the intersection before i lost the green arrow. I pulled over, put it in park, the rpms went to 2000, then i turned it off. Tried starting it again and it wouldn't turn over. Tried it a second time and it fired right up and the gas pedal functioned properly. The check engine light and cruise were on again. I took it to an auto parts store to have the code read and it came up with p2138, an issue with the throttle position sensor. These incidents occurred twice more before i was able to get a proper diagnosis from a mechanic and they occurred anywhere from one to two weeks apart. This is a potentially very dangerous issue with these cars and should be addressed by a recall by subaru.
While driving on highway transmission cooler fitting stripped out, emptying transmission fluid and ruining transmission. As can be seen in picture, oem component has very few threads which are sheared and covered in factory loctite. This is not an inspectable component, nor listed on any maintenance schedule, however when i contacted subaru they stated that it is not defective, considered regular wear and tear, and outside the powertrain warranty. I pointed out that they just setled a class action lawsuit regarding faulty powertrain components, and they declined further discussing my concerns
I was driving my 2006 subaru outback at around 40 mph, going straight on a busy road. Without warning, the accelerator stopped functioning and the vehicle slowed down abruptly. It apparently entered a "safe" mode, with a maximum speed of about 10 mph regardless of how much pressure i applied to the accelerator. The "check engine" warning light was illuminated, and the cruise control light began flashing. I pulled into a parking lot and turned off the ignition. When i re-started the car, the warning lights remained illuminated, but the accelerator functioned normally again and i was able to return home. The vehicle's engine management computer provided an error code p2138, throttle position sensor/switch voltage correlation. This appears to be a common problem with subaru vehicles from around this model year. It has the potential to be an extremely dangerous situation when the throttle suddenly stops working and the car slows to a crawl abruptly. My 17-year-old daughter is the main driver of this vehicle. If the error were to occur on the highway, it could cause a serious accident. There is no reason that the computer needs to put the vehicle in "safe" mode after sensing an electrical abnormality in the throttle wiring. I would like to request a recall to correct this extremely hazardous safety defect.
My 2006 subaru outback has had a code p2138 issue for over two months now. In many cases i am in the car with my 4 year old son and end up being in danger for no reason. Loosing 99% of power while going to school or to the store. All attempts to fix this issue have not worked and the car itself is thought of as a death trap in our house. Subaru disregards the code and offers no fix. Please issue a recall. Lives are at risk.
Straight line driving on flat concrete highway, rear end of vehicle may start to wander when road is slippery.this occurs generally over 25mph, when all other vehicles are able to travel at a higher rate of speed than the 2006 subaru outback 3.0r is able to.cars will pass while i am white knuckled, concerned the rear end is going to break loose and cause complete control failure.i have found other instances of this issue from other subaru drivers, and this is being referred to as "ghost walking" - this is a very good description as this is what it feels like.essentially, the all wheel drive system feels like it is sending too much power to the rear end, under even/constant speed, and causing the rear to break loose.or, there is a alignment geometry problem.very unsettling and very unexpected for a highly regarded all wheel drive system.i have had several all wheel drive systems and none have done this in the same conditions.very hard to recreate for dealership or manufacture, as it requires precise road conditions.just so happens it is precisely the road conditions that most people might buy a subaru (in mn or co).very dangerous.
I recently had p2138.. One time. No throttle response, stopped on a hill on a 2 lane road, on a curve, in big sur.. Not good. Rolled backwards down hill after the ones behind had all passed me. Turned off car, waited for 10 minutes, then it fixed itself after a restart. Jiggled the pedal connector and it has been gone for the last 2 weeks while waiting for my mechanic to have room in his schedule to replace my throttle pedal (which has a pedal position sensor), two days from now.
While driving at speed - city street 45mph -- lost ability to throttle. No throttle, engine, or acceleration response when pressing gas pedal. Check engine and cruise lights blinking. After pulling over, turned off engine.upon restarting after a minute, throttle capability returned. This has happened twice, unexpectedly.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving at various speeds, the accelerator pedal was depressed and the vehicle failed to accelerate. The check engine warning indicator illuminated. The driver had to coast the vehicle to the shoulder and turn the ignition to the off potion and back on in order for the vehicle to operate normally. The failure recurred three times. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where the failure could not be duplicated. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 155,000.
First occurrence 12/5/11. I was driving through a parking lot and check engine light came on as i lost the ability accelerate.i coasted to a parking space, shut my car off and was waiting for a tow truck.after and hour i turned my car back on and all seemed fine.i took it straight to the dealership where they found problem p2138, accelerator pedal assembly problem.they replaced the accelerator pedal.all seemed to be working fine. Second occurrence 1/21/12.i was driving along a side road, check engine light came on as i once again lost the ability to accelerate.shut the car off, sat for a few minutes and turned it back on.i was able to drive but the check engine light was still on.i got my car home and hooked up the diagnostic computer to it and got the same p2138 code.i readjusted the wires connecting the accelerator and check engine light went off.my concern is that this problem is going to occur when i am driving on the highway.obviously the replacement of the accelerator pedal is not the solution to this problem.
Subaru outback began to exhibit "ghost walking" while driving straight during a winter storm. Rear end attempted to race the front end, and could not regain control. This "ghost walking" is well discussed in the online form at subaruoutback.org. Car eventually made it to the edge of the road where it then proceeded to roll 3 times. The experience was not the normally sliding on ice. The rear end seemed to have a mind of its own.
Boots crack and you must replace entire drive shaft.left front drive shaft was just replaced@100,000 miles as the boot cracked on the other side as well.think this is a design flaw as drive shaft sits over the top of the catalytic converter with no shield to block the heat.
I am in my third season driving my 2006 subaru outback to lake tahoe for winter ski season.i've always felt confident driving on snowy or icy roads until my last two trips--christmas 2008, and new year's 2009.on these trips, i experienced very disturbing fishtailing that everyone in the car noticed, and i had to fight to compensate for.this occurred even on long straight sections.each time i had to slow down well below the flow of traffic, and the speed of previous trips.this issue made me wonder about improper tire inflation pressure, so we called the tire dealer, who confirmed this was not the cause.it felt as if the rear wheel traction was overcoming front wheel traction, that made me also wonder whether the all-wheel drive was functioning properly.i also considered weight as a cause, because one day i drove from reno to tahoe with only one passenger, and little cargo, and did not experience the problem.but, the fully loaded vehicle was no different than many trips the previous two seasons, when the fishtailing did not occur, and i could maintain sufficient speed to stay with the flow of traffic.same vehicle, same tires, same loads, same road, same conditions, yet much different performance.i noticed other similar complaints, some of which refer to "ghostwalking."please work on identifying the cause and solution for this issue, to prevent serious accident/injury.thank you.
2006 subaru outback wagon, front left (drivers side) wheel squeals at low speeds.sound is intermittent, but always present at start of usage.taken in numerous times for diagnosis.everything checks out ok, but noise is still present.possible wheel bearing issue?
I have a 2006 subaru outback limited wagon. Driving on wet roads, not even icy, the most minor bump in the road, or frost heave, will send the vehicle's rear end swaying, almost out of control. This is supposedly known as ghost walking. This is extremely dangerous, as it happens at highway speeds, on straight roads, and causes the vehicle to sway back and forth across the lane. Tires have been replaced as well as subaru dealership performing a full alignment. This is supposed to be awd, so rain should not be a factor. I also notice this swaying happen on dry pavement, but not as threatening. Seems like there is play in the rear end, but car was fully safety checked by subaru and passed all points. Seems to be a major flaw in the awd, namely the limited slip differential in the rear end. I'm afraid to drive this vehicle in winter conditions, yet that's what subaru's are known for.
When driving our subaru 2006 2.5i outback wagon (4-speed auto w/sport shift) in winter road conditions, we have had multiple instances where the rear of the car begins to float or do mini-fishtails. It feels like the rear wheels are alternately pushing the car back and forth or like there are wind gusts hitting the car.the floating has a rhythmic feel and may continue for many miles until the road conditions change. When the car is 'floating', you sense that any change (steering, gas or braking) will cause you to lose control of the vehicle.and while we have not had an accident yet, it is a truly scary driving sensation and only a matter of time before this causes a serious accident.the only solution i have found is to ease up on gas until you find a speed (usually under 40 mph) where the floating is less pronounced.this is our 9th subaru and we have 18 years experience driving subaru awd vehicles on minnesota winter roads. None of our former cars, up through the 2004 outback, ever behaved in the manner. Please note, not all winter road conditions seem to trigger the problem.i have most frequently experienced the floating when on asphalt road surfaces that are icy or covered in compacted snow or slush.i have had it occur on completely straight roads under steady throttle while traveling under 45 mph.when it occurs, i have always been driving at safe speeds and have noted that other vehicles were passing by at much higher speeds and seemed comfortable and confident with the road conditions.the most serious incident occurred after we had new michelin tires put on and the dealer had completed an alignment.no other parts have been replaced.please note, this is a subaru.your database of vins comes up with the keystone rv manufacturer.this is not correct.
When driving our subaru 2006 2.5i outback wagon (4-speed auto w/sport shift) in winter road conditions, we have had multiple instances where the rear of the car begins to float or do mini-fishtails. It feels like the rear wheels are alternately pushing the car back and forth or like there are wind gusts hitting the car.the floating has a rhythmic feel and may continue for many miles until the road conditions change. When the car is 'floating', you sense that any change (steering, gas or braking) will cause you to lose control of the vehicle.and while we have not had an accident yet, it is a truly scary driving sensation and only a matter of time before this causes a serious accident.the only solution i have found is to ease up on gas until you find a speed (usually under 40 mph) where the floating is less pronounced.this is our 9th subaru and we have 18 years experience driving subaru awd vehicles on minnesota winter roads. None of our former cars, up through the 2004 outback, ever behaved in the manner. Please note, not all winter road conditions seem to trigger the problem.i have most frequently experienced the floating when on asphalt road surfaces that are icy or covered in compacted snow or slush.i have had it occur on completely straight roads under steady throttle while traveling under 45 mph.when it occurs, i have always been driving at safe speeds and have noted that other vehicles were passing by at much higher speeds and seemed comfortable and confident with the road conditions.the most serious incident occurred after we had new michelin tires put on and the dealer had completed an alignment.no other parts have been replaced.please note, this is a subaru.your database of vins comes up with the keystone rv manufacturer.this is not correct.
The passenger seat belt buckle is too low for release. My wife has a very difficult time releasing the seat belt from the buckle. If we were in an accident i fear that she would not be able to get out of the car. This has been reported to the dealer and they say that they can do nothing about it. All that has to be done is to replace the buckle with one of the same type that is used on the drivers seat.
Subaru dealership refused to discuss safety issue recalls selling vehicle with open safety recalls and other safety issues that could have been easily remedied. The vehicle had been in for service and problems were not addressed. Dealership claims "sold as is" and buyer beware, after we had leased a new 2019 vehicle and purchased a like new used vehicle that had gone through their extensive multipoint inspections. Issues for air bags, fuel system leaking, potential fire and explosion, faulty seat latches as safety recall.dealership has violated trust and exhibited no concern for anyone's safety. We can not trust this dealership for repair or service of our vehicles.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback.she stated that her vehicle was rear-ended, which caused her to crash into the rear of another vehicle.the airbags did not deploy.the failure and current mileages were 26,000.updated 02-01-08 the driver and passenger seats both went all the way down laying flat in the vehicle and because of this defect the passenger in the back seat was injured. Updated 02/01/08
2006 subaru outback.hi,problem (1) head rest is so big that between the seat belt strap and the head rest there is no view to see vehicles about to pass in the left hand lane.can result in side swiping when changing lanes.all the safety features in the world won't help if the end result of the feature is to cause injury or fatality.safety problem (2) the speedometer.in order to make the instrument panel look "cute" you have destroy the ability to see what speed the vehicle is moving.no need to go to 140 mph to start with.the jumps between markings make it just about impossible to quickly determine the speeds 50, 60, and 70mph and forget trying for 55,65,75.what do you intend to do about these two very serious safety problems on my 2006 subaru outback??????i am "dead" serious about this and will search all possibilities for a remedy.
While driving the vehicle stopped accelerating and shut down .was told that the pedal assembly and sensorsstopped working.this malfunction can kill people.other have has low mileage on the vehicle and have the car shut down while driving.
Found coolant black and possible overheating from head gasket failure in result radiator was exposed to high heat and cracked. Combustion pressure had entered cooling system and caused over pressure of cooling system. Recommend leak down and compression check of engine to determine if internal damage has occurred. Customer has two options, replacement of head gaskets if no other findings internal are found or replacement of engine complete. Turbo may also be damaged and needs inspection also.replace rear brake rotors and pads, lube back of pads and hardware pins with anti squeak paste. Adjust emergency brake system to factory spec. Road test for noise and seat new pads to rotors.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign numbers: 15v323000 (air bags) and 14v311000 (service brakes, hydraulic). The part to do the repair was not available. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue.the contact had not experienced a failure.
As i was checking under the hood of my car i noticed the brake fluid was low. I went to pick up a new container of brake fluid. L.p. I noticed my brake pedal went to the floor but i was able to brake when i pushed it to the floor. I went to a shop that showed me where the leak was coming from. Under the gas tank.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign numbers: 15v323000 and 14v311000 (air bags and service brakes, hydraulic). The part was not available within a reasonable time frame to schedule the recall repair. The dealer did not give a specific date for when the part would become available. The manufacturer was not notified of the issue. The contact was not experiencing a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback.the contact stated that while driving approximately 50 mph, the brake warning light illuminated on the instrument panel and the brake pedal failed to respond.the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who stated that the brake line was completely rusted.the vehicle was not repaired.the manufacturer was notified of the failure.the approximate failure mileage was 110,000.
My son lost his brakes and nearly wrecked the other day. Brake line ruptured and the dealer won't honor the recall on them because they got some half-ass recall treatment by the previous owner. Subaru did not do a proper fix to these lines and they know it! what are we suppose to do with a car with no brakes!!?
My vehicle only has 40,000 miles on it. It is not shifting properly from 2ns-3rd gear while driving, it jerks pretty hard if cold, i have had numerous brake problems, takes a long time to stop at slow speeds, & i'm having numerous issues with suspension. Balljoints keep clicking while reversing, (control arms,balljoints, bushings, bearings, have all been replaced, etc.) this car has been babied and has almost no miles. It is becoming a money-pitt and nobody wants to fix it.
Four times in one month prior theabove date, this vehicle stopped running in traffic. It would not restart. Most importantly, the automatic transmission could not be taken out of gear and put into park!!in addition, the emergency brake failed to properly keep the vehicle from rolling in traffic.the most recent time this happened, the driver was in heavy traffic on a hill and the emergency brake again did not properly hold the vehicle.the driver had to open her door, exit the vehicle in order to physically stop it from rolling downhill in traffic and was nearly ran over by a passing semi trailer truck.this is a well maintained vehicle, often through the dealer it was purchased from.during this time, the vehicle was towed twice to the dealer.they diagnosed the problem as being caused by electronic computer parts malfunction. After these expensive and possibly unnecessary repairs the problem still persisted.the vehicle continued to stop for no reason in traffic and would not restart.each time this happened, the vehicle could not be taken out of gear and put into park!!i know of no other vehicle where this type of problem has happened.after the latest breakdown, upon inspection, the dealer located a section of wire loom that had worn bare and possibly had caused a short in the electrical system.this worn spot in the wire loom may have tripped up the logic in the vehicle computer and been the reason the driver could not put the vehicle in park after breaking down in traffic.if this electrical wire loom caused this "malfunction", it would put anyone in this vehicle in a position where there is great potential for serious injury, or death.this problem should be looked into by your department in order to make sure this does not happen again to someone else.
Bought car from private owner in october 2018. Immediately after sale had the subaru dealership replace rear brakes in october 2018 and completely inspect car for any needed repairs. In early december brake indicator light on, then immediately after catastrophic brake failure resulting in inability to stop vehicle while entire family was on board. Found out from dealership that, despite finding corrosion on brake line upon initial inspection, the corrosion was encapsulated by barrier spray and continued to corrode brake line until catastrophic failure and inability to stop the vehicle. Awaiting dealership response.
Upon returning to my home last week i nearly went through my garage after my brake lines failed and the brake pedal went to the floor, lucky for me i was able to stop the vehicle as i knew once depressed all the way i would have some remaining braking abilities. I do live in michigan which does account for rust on the under bodies of vehicles, although the specific issue that i am very angered by was the fact that there was a recall to prevent premature failure of the brake lines in my car (recall wqk47, nhtsa 14v311), which my car took part in and was only coated with anti-rust wax only to fail a year later. At the time of repair i had asked if the lines where still in good shape, and was told they where all good and just had to be coated. Since i have a mechanical background i decided to l locate the brake line that had failed on my car as well as look into the service manual for the repairs required for the recall, and unsurprisingly the exact image on the service manual for problem areas to clean and coat was the location of the failure. I find it very irritating to receive a false sense of hope in reliance of the brakes only to be let down by the one part that was supposed to be checked and corrected. I have contacted subaru with my concerns, only to be offered a voucher for service that will cover to my understanding a third or less of the repair cost for a part that should have been resolved during a recall! attached you will find my correspondence with subaru support as well as images that depict the failure of not one but 2 joints in the same area above/in the crevice of the fuel tank, and thevery little so called protective anti-corrosive wax over these areas that was applied during the recall.
As i pulled into my parking space at work, i put my foot on the brake but the car did not respond.car stopped only after jumping curb and plowing into brick wall of my building.
I have a 2006 subaru outback 2.5i wagon with less than 16,000 miles.the brakes grind and seem like they may not catch.in fact, a year ago we slid through an intersection on our way to have our taxes done when they did not hold.the dealer said it was due to rust and that subaru does not cover rusted brakes on their warranty. We called the customer service number 1-800-782-2783 and talked to matt and he also indicated they did not warrant rusted brakes but that he would call the dealer. The car has low mileage, and 36 month 36000 bumper to bumper warranty and has always been stored in a garage.the brakes should not fail at less than 16000 miles.this car should be under warranty.are they using substandard metal in the braking system?should this car be recalled for faulty brakes?is this a safety issue?
I have a 2006 subaru outback 2.5i wagon with less than 16,000 miles.the brakes grind and seem like they may not catch.in fact, a year ago we slid through an intersection on our way to have our taxes done when they did not hold.the dealer said it was due to rust and that subaru does not cover rusted brakes on their warranty. We called the customer service number 1-800-782-2783 and talked to matt and he also indicated they did not warrant rusted brakes but that he would call the dealer. The car has low mileage, and 36 month 36000 bumper to bumper warranty and has always been stored in a garage.the brakes should not fail at less than 16000 miles.this car should be under warranty.are they using substandard metal in the braking system?should this car be recalled for faulty brakes?is this a safety issue?
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback.the contact stated that while driving approximately 50 mph, the brake warning light illuminated on the instrument panel and the brake pedal failed to respond.the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who stated that the brake line was completely rusted.the vehicle was not repaired.the manufacturer was notified of the failure.the approximate failure mileage was 110,000.
The right front wheelsteering tie rod precipitouslyand without any warning separated into two separate pieces when the inner part of the tie rod pulled out of the threaded sleeve on the outer part of the tie rod when i drove into my driveway, leaving me with no steering control on the right front wheel. Examination shows the threads on the inner part of tie rod were defective possibly when manufactured allowingseparation and lack of steering control. The vehicle is a 2006 subaru legacy outback , 4 years old, 44,000 miles. Tire wear was normal and no indication of a problem was evident prior to problem.
While driving vehicle in snow covered, slush covered roads conditions varied during day.the vehicle kept feeling like it was washing out side to side.i had 5 passengers in vehicle and they all could feel it and it scared them and i had to slow down to a dangerously slow speed on interstate, that was causing disruption to traffic flow.on way home took secondary roads so as to not disrupt traffic.this was my first experience in taking this vehicle for drive in snow conditions since it is new to me.we purposely took subaru for legendary handling in snow, it downright shook me up and wished we had our front wheel drive pontiac vibe.i inspected vehicle, made some changes to front suspension, ball joints, sway bar links, control arm bushings, only two control arm bushings were notably bad all other parts changed because i was there.both tie rods were good.i have since experienced same issue when encountering patches of black ice, snow covered roads as well as driving on gravel roads.i have never experienced a car handling like this in my 35 years of driving!this vehicle is downright dangerous!!!and too think i bought this to be my winter vehicle.
2006 subaru outback auto trans. On many occasions the vehicle's rear-end side-steps, fishtails or oscillates on icy road conditions. This has also been described as "ghost-walking" where it feels like the awd system in the rear is over compensating, leading to the vehicle being uncontrollable. The behavior seems to happen in the 40-60mph range. You must slow down to unsafe speeds, even for the weather, to maintain control. Other non-awd vehicles driving on the same roads are not having this problem and are able to maintain safe control at higher speeds. It is frightening when other 2wd cars and trucks are passing you going 20mph faster and it's difficult to keep your car on the road or in a straight line.this happens when driving on straight flat roads without braking, accelerating or turning with fairly new all season tires - no more than 15,000 miles on them (regularly rotated).
I am in my third season driving my 2006 subaru outback to lake tahoe for winter ski season.i've always felt confident driving on snowy or icy roads until my last two trips--christmas 2008, and new year's 2009.on these trips, i experienced very disturbing fishtailing that everyone in the car noticed, and i had to fight to compensate for.this occurred even on long straight sections.each time i had to slow down well below the flow of traffic, and the speed of previous trips.this issue made me wonder about improper tire inflation pressure, so we called the tire dealer, who confirmed this was not the cause.it felt as if the rear wheel traction was overcoming front wheel traction, that made me also wonder whether the all-wheel drive was functioning properly.i also considered weight as a cause, because one day i drove from reno to tahoe with only one passenger, and little cargo, and did not experience the problem.but, the fully loaded vehicle was no different than many trips the previous two seasons, when the fishtailing did not occur, and i could maintain sufficient speed to stay with the flow of traffic.same vehicle, same tires, same loads, same road, same conditions, yet much different performance.i noticed other similar complaints, some of which refer to "ghostwalking."please work on identifying the cause and solution for this issue, to prevent serious accident/injury.thank you.
I have a 2006 subaru outback limited wagon. Driving on wet roads, not even icy, the most minor bump in the road, or frost heave, will send the vehicle's rear end swaying, almost out of control. This is supposedly known as ghost walking. This is extremely dangerous, as it happens at highway speeds, on straight roads, and causes the vehicle to sway back and forth across the lane. Tires have been replaced as well as subaru dealership performing a full alignment. This is supposed to be awd, so rain should not be a factor. I also notice this swaying happen on dry pavement, but not as threatening. Seems like there is play in the rear end, but car was fully safety checked by subaru and passed all points. Seems to be a major flaw in the awd, namely the limited slip differential in the rear end. I'm afraid to drive this vehicle in winter conditions, yet that's what subaru's are known for.
After slowing to a near stop at the bottom of an interstate highway exit ramp, my car suddenly, and without warning, died and i lost all systems, including engine and power steering.all i was able to do was drift to the side of the road. Subaru initiallybelieved that the ecm had failed.after replacing the ecm, it became apparent that that was not the issue.subaru ultimately determined that the wiring harness housing had melted against the coolant crossover pipe, exposing wiring which was then shorting out.subaru could give me no explanation as to why the wiring harness was installed against a hot component of my engine such that it would melt.had this happened 1 minute earlier, i would have been on interstate 95 during rush hour traffic with a dead car.given the suddenness with which my car died, it is likely i would have been involved in a serious accident.
Boots crack and you must replace entire drive shaft.left front drive shaft was just replaced@100,000 miles as the boot cracked on the other side as well.think this is a design flaw as drive shaft sits over the top of the catalytic converter with no shield to block the heat.
I see the same complaint several times on this site. This was not the first instance for us either, it has been going on since we bought the vehicle with only 17,000 miles. It has been checked by both subaru and private repair shops several times. The car wonders / ghost walks / swerves unexpectedly on slippery road conditions, you drop real fast from 65 to 40 - 45 mph or you feel as though you will go out of control off the road, intermittent slippery conditions are the worst. We havehad numerous alignments done - 4 wheel alignment perhaps helps only slightly. We have had new tires etc. We are tired of being told there is nothing wrong with the car, its an accident waiting to happen, probably has. Where otherwise in good shape it is a car that we cannot even transfer to our children.
While driving the vehicle stopped accelerating and shut down .was told that the pedal assembly and sensorsstopped working.this malfunction can kill people.other have has low mileage on the vehicle and have the car shut down while driving.
Straight line driving on flat concrete highway, rear end of vehicle may start to wander when road is slippery.this occurs generally over 25mph, when all other vehicles are able to travel at a higher rate of speed than the 2006 subaru outback 3.0r is able to.cars will pass while i am white knuckled, concerned the rear end is going to break loose and cause complete control failure.i have found other instances of this issue from other subaru drivers, and this is being referred to as "ghost walking" - this is a very good description as this is what it feels like.essentially, the all wheel drive system feels like it is sending too much power to the rear end, under even/constant speed, and causing the rear to break loose.or, there is a alignment geometry problem.very unsettling and very unexpected for a highly regarded all wheel drive system.i have had several all wheel drive systems and none have done this in the same conditions.very hard to recreate for dealership or manufacture, as it requires precise road conditions.just so happens it is precisely the road conditions that most people might buy a subaru (in mn or co).very dangerous.
While traveling thru the adirondack region of ny on a sunday afternoon returning home from vt i proceededto pass a vehicle from the center lane into the left lane. Speed was 65mph accelerating to 69mph to pass, not more than 250 ft later our vehicle started to fishtail then head right into numerous 360spins taking out 35 ft or so of guard rail and crunching and damaging almost every side and corner of our outback. Both hands were on the wheel, i did not hit any snow or ice that i am aware of and i was not speeding excessively. Not one of our airbags deployed either!! i am confident there was some sort of mechanical or electrical issue with the stability control of the 2006 outback we were driving and am thankful we were not seriously injured.
Front end tie rod defective. Oem part.caught by mechanic fixing chronic alignment issue with 2006 subaru outback wagon. I was told was dangerous condition, and front end was shimmying.replaced part at my expense.
2006 subaru outback sw.coming home on the freeway, i heard what sounded like something was loose.since my car is only 4 years old and i did buy it brand new, i couldn't imagine it was the muffler as that is what it sounded like.upon looking under the car in my garage, i noticed that there was a bolt connecting the right rear tire to the axle missing, appearing as though it had been severed off. It is parked in a locked garage everyday and now the axle is drooping below the hole where the bolt should be.i have contacted my local subaru dealer to repair this.i will not drive this car as i know it may cause an accident should the tire come off.
I noticed a glare in the windshield above the dashboard making it difficult/annoying to see.this appears to be due to the dashboard melting and losing the "grainy" effect which reduced the glare.the dash is sticky and very reflective in the windshield.
Thank you for considering my concern;any sudden twitch of the steering wheel, such as trying to avoid a pothole, or hitting a bump in the road will cause the car to oscillate wildly from side to side with fear of loosing control and rolling over.i am a very experienced driver but my only response is to slow down and take my hands off the wheel to let the rolling settle down.i have replaced all four struts and had the car aligned.this is going to kill someone, if it has not already.i hope its not me but i feel sorry for the person who buys my car.i have read many other identical complaints and can not believe subaru or the government has not responded.both will have blood on their hands when an innocent person looses their life.it would be very easy to see how serious the problem is.just come drive my car for yourself and you will know true fear.please help us before its too late![xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
2006 subaru outback auto trans. On many occasions the vehicle's rear-end side-steps, fishtails or oscillates on icy road conditions. This has also been described as "ghost-walking" where it feels like the awd system in the rear is over compensating, leading to the vehicle being uncontrollable. The behavior seems to happen in the 40-60mph range. You must slow down to unsafe speeds, even for the weather, to maintain control. Other non-awd vehicles driving on the same roads are not having this problem and are able to maintain safe control at higher speeds. It is frightening when other 2wd cars and trucks are passing you going 20mph faster and it's difficult to keep your car on the road or in a straight line.this happens when driving on straight flat roads without braking, accelerating or turning with fairly new all season tires - no more than 15,000 miles on them (regularly rotated).
Subaru has recall on wheel bearings and state my outback does not fit into recall. However it is the same part that has failed, yet they state they fixed the problem. Headgasket is leaking at 125,000, subaru states replacement gaskets are better however i am expected to pay 2000 for the repair.
Subaru outback began to exhibit "ghost walking" while driving straight during a winter storm. Rear end attempted to race the front end, and could not regain control. This "ghost walking" is well discussed in the online form at subaruoutback.org. Car eventually made it to the edge of the road where it then proceeded to roll 3 times. The experience was not the normally sliding on ice. The rear end seemed to have a mind of its own.
While driving vehicle in snow covered, slush covered roads conditions varied during day.the vehicle kept feeling like it was washing out side to side.i had 5 passengers in vehicle and they all could feel it and it scared them and i had to slow down to a dangerously slow speed on interstate, that was causing disruption to traffic flow.on way home took secondary roads so as to not disrupt traffic.this was my first experience in taking this vehicle for drive in snow conditions since it is new to me.we purposely took subaru for legendary handling in snow, it downright shook me up and wished we had our front wheel drive pontiac vibe.i inspected vehicle, made some changes to front suspension, ball joints, sway bar links, control arm bushings, only two control arm bushings were notably bad all other parts changed because i was there.both tie rods were good.i have since experienced same issue when encountering patches of black ice, snow covered roads as well as driving on gravel roads.i have never experienced a car handling like this in my 35 years of driving!this vehicle is downright dangerous!!!and too think i bought this to be my winter vehicle.
I see the same complaint several times on this site. This was not the first instance for us either, it has been going on since we bought the vehicle with only 17,000 miles. It has been checked by both subaru and private repair shops several times. The car wonders / ghost walks / swerves unexpectedly on slippery road conditions, you drop real fast from 65 to 40 - 45 mph or you feel as though you will go out of control off the road, intermittent slippery conditions are the worst. We havehad numerous alignments done - 4 wheel alignment perhaps helps only slightly. We have had new tires etc. We are tired of being told there is nothing wrong with the car, its an accident waiting to happen, probably has. Where otherwise in good shape it is a car that we cannot even transfer to our children.
When driving on poor traction roads (ice or compacted snow), the rear of the car is very unstable and shifts left to right by as much as 2-3 feet - while going in a straight line, straight road - maintaining a constant speed (no acceleration or braking). This happened several times, over a 3400 mile road trip this winter - sometimes lasting for hours, making for very difficult and unsafe driving, almost going out of control on several occasions - even at very slow speeds (20-30 mph)!there were two people in the car, but a lot of luggage - probably exceeding 400 lbs of weight in the rear, but nothing excessive, and well within the specified limits for this car. I had my alignment adjusted 3 months ago to factory specs. It however appears that when the car has any weight in the rear, the toe-in adjustment changes significantly to cause "rear steering" which leads to the unstable behavior on slippery roads, and uneven wear of tires (that i have also noticed). There appears to be no way to keep the alignment stable - different loads should not affect the geometry in this way. I really hope subaru can help us solve this problem, it is very unsafe and this car is advertised as an awd snow vehicle!i would be happy to provide more information.
I have a 2006 subaru outback with about 55,000 miles on it, i have had the rear struts replaced and know i am having the front struts replaced.it is expensive to replace struts.the mechanic that is replacing them says they shouldnt have to be replaced yet.if i dont replace them it affects the steering on the car.what makes the struts go bad prematurely?the car was new when i bought it, i dont drive it carelessly or recklessly.has there been any other complaints?
My vehicle only has 40,000 miles on it. It is not shifting properly from 2ns-3rd gear while driving, it jerks pretty hard if cold, i have had numerous brake problems, takes a long time to stop at slow speeds, & i'm having numerous issues with suspension. Balljoints keep clicking while reversing, (control arms,balljoints, bushings, bearings, have all been replaced, etc.) this car has been babied and has almost no miles. It is becoming a money-pitt and nobody wants to fix it.
2006 subaru is unsafe on slippery roads.the car has a tendency to "steer" from the rear.it may be something with the center differential that causes more power to the rear and thus makes the rear want to fishtail out while driving slow in a straight line.it is by far the worst car i have ever driven on ice.even with snow tires.and i had a rwd cougar with bad tires when i was young.
Purchased this car used last jan. No incidents yet, but can not drive (with passengers in the back or weight in the cargo area) over 35 mph in certain road conditions, mainly when there is ice and dry pavement together. Has dangerous rear steer problem in those conditions. I have driven every type of vehicle from semi's to older subaru outbacks and was born and raised in michigan. This car is very dangerous to drive with my family or other passengers in the car! have tried tires, stiffer springs and struts and alignment. The car is 90% better when i am the only one in the car. Note** i am not an aggressive driver and not expecting too much because it's awd.
Straight line driving on flat concrete highway, rear end of vehicle may start to wander when road is slippery.this occurs generally over 25mph, when all other vehicles are able to travel at a higher rate of speed than the 2006 subaru outback 3.0r is able to.cars will pass while i am white knuckled, concerned the rear end is going to break loose and cause complete control failure.i have found other instances of this issue from other subaru drivers, and this is being referred to as "ghost walking" - this is a very good description as this is what it feels like.essentially, the all wheel drive system feels like it is sending too much power to the rear end, under even/constant speed, and causing the rear to break loose.or, there is a alignment geometry problem.very unsettling and very unexpected for a highly regarded all wheel drive system.i have had several all wheel drive systems and none have done this in the same conditions.very hard to recreate for dealership or manufacture, as it requires precise road conditions.just so happens it is precisely the road conditions that most people might buy a subaru (in mn or co).very dangerous.
While driving on icy or packed snow conditions sometimes the outback's rear-end feels like it's breaking free, in a side-to-side motion. This is also referred to as ghostwalking or maybe fishtailing, but not the kind of fishtailing most are familiar with. It seems the car isn't equipped to handle these very specific conditions and as a result the rear-end starts wobbling. I've driven in foul weather many times, many miles, many years and do not drive too fast for conditions and i know how to drive in bad weather. I'm 99% sure this condition is resulting from the car, not the driver. When it does happen i end up driving much slower than other traffic, to the point where people are eager to pass and are annoyed. I also run dedicated snow tires. This is supposed to be a "go-anywhere" car with proven awd capabilities, and i believe it was in prior generations, but there is something wrong with the 3rd generation my2005+ cars. Soa please do some testing as i cannot honestly recommend this car and i would not buy another. I'm still debating if i'll be keeping this one. Please consider your reputation and look seriously into this matter. You have a very specific piece of the auto market and i hope you have intentions of keeping it. This is most certainly a safety issue and may be a result of the awd system, suspension, alignment or any combination of them. We need your help in staging tests to get to the root cause. I have contacted soa directly and hope this will take action.
I was driving on hwy 287 from casper back to laramie, wy at around 40 mph, which is lower than the speed limit of 65 mph, the car started fishtailing by itself suddenly and span 360 to the side of the road, there's black ice on the road but overall condition was good. The reason why i drove much slower than other cars (fwd cars) was that i don't have any confidence with the subaru, it feels like the car is 'floating' on the road, the rear end tends to slide to the left or right all by itself, without any hard braking, fast steering, or sudden pushing on the throttle.i bought this car used last year with about 84k miles on it, it came with a set of snow tires, i had this problem once while the car skidded and span 360 on the interstate at 45 mph ( i was much slower than most of the cars on the highway), i changed the tired and had it re-aligned after the winter, and it happened again this winter, all parts on the suspension are from stock, no aftermarket parts were ever added to the car except for the tires, so i think there may be some issues with the suspension design of my car that's been there from the factory.i did some research online and found the term 'ghostwalking', it appears to be pretty common on outback from 05 to 09, i wonder if subaru has acknowledged this issue and how can i get this fixed.
I own a 2006 subaru outback 2.5 with a manual transmission. This vehicle is an early warning indicator for black ice on the road surface. The outback vehicle has a stability control problem in certain conditions. While driving at constant speed (constant and low throttle position) on a flat road, the back end of the vehicle tends to oscillate from side to side in icy conditions. The vehicle feels like it is going to spin out, although that hasn't happened to me yet. Other vehicles on the road at the same time seem to have adequate traction (2wd, awd, 4wd). The problem is not traction while: 1) cornering under slippery conditions, 2) hard acceleration on ice, or 3) braking on ice. Road conditions that i have experienced the oscillation on are very thin ice (black ice). I suspect there is something wrong with the rear suspension design on my outback. The problem is more prevalent and pronounced when the vehicle has occupants in the rear seats. The stability of this vehicle seems to be marginal and it only takes certain conditions (road and vehicle parameters) to be on the edge of disaster. Subaru released technical service bulletin 05-36-07 which eliminated the positive side of the original toe tolerance for rear tire alignment. I think the vehicle experiences large rear tire toe in when weight is added. I suspect this large rear tire toe in when weight is added contributes to the stability problem in icy conditions i have brand new (jan 2010) hankook ipike w409 studless winter tires. Its not the tires. Those who have not experienced this situation naturally respond by saying it is ice, what are your expecting, just slow down. I have lived in colorado since 1981 and consider myself a competent driver in all weather conditions.please respond as i would like to get this problem fixed if possible...the car just turned 50,000 miles.
Untrue tracking on road with ice patches. Rear of car moves around a lot.could not safely go over 40 mph, getting passed by other going 60 mph on two-lane 65 mph rated road.
I experience a side-to-side shake on icy road conditions.it is very unsettling to the car and is not simply road conditions.fwd, rwd, and other awd vehicles are not having any trouble and i'm doing everything i can to stay on the road and am driving as much as 20 - 30 mph slower than the next slower car on the road.there is something wrong with the subaru outback vehicle dynamics on ice.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated that while driving approximately 55 mph, a toxic odor emitted from outside the vehicle. The contact discovered that front passenger's side had caught on fire. The contact extinguished the fire and the vehicle was taken to the dealer. The technician diagnosed that the axle boot had failed. The vehicle had been repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 82,000.
Check engine light no. 1 piston defective engine replaced covered by warranty. 2nd engine & turbo failure at 94,591 miles nov 10 2010 not covered by warranty we paid $5005.00 in repair bills there was coolant, oil, & other fluid loss & a lot of smoke. The 3rd engine & turbo failure august 2012 diagnosis by international auto/subaru showed no.1 piston came loose also there was check engine light in all 3 incidents we were told $9000.00 to start we said no had it towed to our driveway where it sits now it has 136,000 miles on it. Also there was an oil pump failure 121,115 miles $495.00 11/22/2011. Also $853.87 to repair a serious oil leak at 96,650 miles 11/26/2010,front & rear control arm bushings replaced split 96,647 miles $482.33 ,right& left rear wheel bearings failure replaced 118,072 miles 10/12/2011 $897.49.
I took my 2006 subaru outback 2.5 in for routine service and tire rotation.was told that my left outer cv boot was torn.took the car to the dealership who verified the problem and was given a price to repair, which i could not afford.since the car only had approx. 55,000 miles, and my extended warranty had just lapsed, i contacted subaru and was told they would reimburse me for half of the cost of the repairs if they were made at a subaru authorized mechanic, i.e. Dealership.the cost my mechanic of choice quoted was less than half of the dealership fee, so i declined the offer from subaru.july 2012, 60,000 miles, took car in for routine servicing again and was told the right inner cv boot is torn and the left rear strut is leaking.i cannot afford these repairs and have done research to find out that cv boot tears are quite common in subaru's.they will not cover the cost of repair or do a recall even though since my experiences, i have talked to many subaru owners who have had cv boot issues.as it stands now, i do not feel the car is safe to drive, so it sits in the garage while my friends provide transportation.i paid more than $20,000 to buy a car that sits in the garage.
2006 subaru outback wagon, front left (drivers side) wheel squeals at low speeds.sound is intermittent, but always present at start of usage.taken in numerous times for diagnosis.everything checks out ok, but noise is still present.possible wheel bearing issue?
2006 subaru outback wagon 2.5irear-sway side-stepping and what i have seen described as "ghost-walking" on icy conditions. The awd system on the car seems to cause the vehicle to shift side-to-side making it very difficult to control.
Rear tracking begins oscillating dangerously in winter driving conditions.extremely dangerous.going 30 mph and being passed by every car on the road while i am fighting to keep from crashing.rear wheels seem to transfer traction to tires that are slipping, oscillating back and forth, causing rear end to fishtail at any speed.replaced tires and same thing.this is the scariest thing i have ever experienced.been driving in wisconsin winters for 35 years.i have never experienced anything like this.many similar complaints on nhtsa website and on internet postings.i am serious - this is really dangerous.when are you going to make subaru accountable?
I have a 2006 subaru outback 2.5i.occasionally, while driving on snowpacked/icy roads the rear end begins to sway abruptly back and forth, even on straight sections of road.it causes the car to become almost uncontrollable as it wants to start fishtailing.the only way to stop it is to slow well below a safe speed and the speed of traffic, creating another potentially dangerous situation.it appears to happen more frequently when the car is loaded with 3 to 5 passengers plus ski gear.i do a lot of driving in winter conditions in the mountains of co and have never experienced anything like this.i just had my car in to the local subaru dealership (for the 2nd time) and they could not recreate the problem or find anything wrong with the vehicle.the technician did acknowledge that other customers had the same complaint and they couldn't find anything wrong with their vehicles either.his only recommendation was to go to a more aggressive snow tire.i don't believe this would address the problem of why the car is swaying back and forth in the first place.it would just create more friction on the road surface to keep the car from sliding side to side.this needs to be addressed as it creates an extremely dangerous situation with a possible loss of control while traveling at safe speeds for the conditions.there is no reason a vehicle should be trying to fishtail while traveling on a straight section of road, regardless of how slippery it is.
2006 subaru outback auto trans. On many occasions the vehicle's rear-end side-steps or oscillates on icy/snow-packed road conditions. This has also been described as "ghost-walking" where it feels like the awd system in the rear is over compensating, leading to the vehicle being uncontrollable. The behavior seems to happen in the 30-40mph range. Although, i prefer not to drive any faster than the road conditions allow, it can be very frightening when other 2wd cars and trucks are passing you going 20mph faster and it's difficult to even keep the car on the road or in a straight line.ihave hadthe alignment checked and had brand-new all season tires installed, with no resolution. The dealer has not found anything wrong.
I am in my third season driving my 2006 subaru outback to lake tahoe for winter ski season.i've always felt confident driving on snowy or icy roads until my last two trips--christmas 2008, and new year's 2009.on these trips, i experienced very disturbing fishtailing that everyone in the car noticed, and i had to fight to compensate for.this occurred even on long straight sections.each time i had to slow down well below the flow of traffic, and the speed of previous trips.this issue made me wonder about improper tire inflation pressure, so we called the tire dealer, who confirmed this was not the cause.it felt as if the rear wheel traction was overcoming front wheel traction, that made me also wonder whether the all-wheel drive was functioning properly.i also considered weight as a cause, because one day i drove from reno to tahoe with only one passenger, and little cargo, and did not experience the problem.but, the fully loaded vehicle was no different than many trips the previous two seasons, when the fishtailing did not occur, and i could maintain sufficient speed to stay with the flow of traffic.same vehicle, same tires, same loads, same road, same conditions, yet much different performance.i noticed other similar complaints, some of which refer to "ghostwalking."please work on identifying the cause and solution for this issue, to prevent serious accident/injury.thank you.
This past week in minnesota we had cold enough temps so that road salt was ineffective on i-35 north of minneapolis.we had light snow at the time i was driving so that slippery ice formed on the wheel ruts in the right lane.most of the other drivers ignored it.my subaru, however, began fishtailing immediately when it encountered an icy spot, so that i had to slow to45 mph in order to maintain control.this has happened regularly over the course of the four winters i have driven the car. When on ice at highway speeds, it begins fishtailing out of control.it happens with all loads. This is the second set of tires (not the same as the first).i have been driving on minnesota and wisconsin winter roads for 45 years.this car is (and has been since it was new) very dangerous on the highway in icy conditions.
I have a 2006 subaru outback limited wagon. Driving on wet roads, not even icy, the most minor bump in the road, or frost heave, will send the vehicle's rear end swaying, almost out of control. This is supposedly known as ghost walking. This is extremely dangerous, as it happens at highway speeds, on straight roads, and causes the vehicle to sway back and forth across the lane. Tires have been replaced as well as subaru dealership performing a full alignment. This is supposed to be awd, so rain should not be a factor. I also notice this swaying happen on dry pavement, but not as threatening. Seems like there is play in the rear end, but car was fully safety checked by subaru and passed all points. Seems to be a major flaw in the awd, namely the limited slip differential in the rear end. I'm afraid to drive this vehicle in winter conditions, yet that's what subaru's are known for.
'06 subaru outback(auto) seems to have handling issues caused by awd system. Some have described it as "ghostwalking", where the rear end of the car shifts side to side when the awd kicks in. Please investigate this problem. Have replaced tires and checked alignment, problem still exists.
I own a 2006 subaru outback 2.5i with automatic transmission and about 28,000 miles.it is an all wheel drive vehicle.on "black ice", regular ice and hard snow pack, it weaves side to side on its own.the driver basically loses the ability to control the vehicle.the experience would be similar to be driving with a strong side wind which moves your vehicle on you.the difference is with the wind you can take corrective action and steer into the wind to counteract its effect.in this case, you are captive to wherever the vehicle takes you and can do nothing about it short of slowing down or stop driving it altogether.this is unnerving to say the least and frightening otherwise.the only way to stop the vehicle from moving by itself is to slow down to 35mph or less.while i have not been in an accident (yet), while driving it under these conditions, it is very nerve racking.subaru is well aware of the problem and has chosen to do nothing about it to this point.they must be waiting for fatalities or lawsuits before they feel a "fix" is necessary.please investigate this problem.it is real and could be very dangerous if not fixed.
1. Slick road conditions with moderate to heavy passenger or cargo load2. Rear of the vehicle loses control in any kind of slick road condition. Even happened on wet pavement with loaded car. Results are having to slow to unsafe low speeds to maintain any traction.3. No parts or work done yet.
2006 subaru legacy outback 2.5i with 44k miles.on hard pack snow/ice/slush this vehicle has a very noticeable tendency to lose control at the rear wheels.this problem continues anytime i encounter the identical conditions.i have had this vehicle aligned as suggested by my local shortline subaru dealer at my cost.the problem continues.i have lost control of this vehicle at less than 30mph while tracking straight.there is something seriously wrong with this vehicle.as this vehicle is all wheel drive drivers will have a tendency to use this vehicle in the above conditions.please investigate and test this vehicles rear suspension.
My 2006 subaru outback begins to ghostwalk at about 50mph and is unsafe, smaller cars and vehicles can pass me with better control while mine fishtails at the back until speed is reduced at less than traffic speed.
2006 subaru outback 2.5i base with automatic transmission.my vehicle has a noticeable erratic stability handling problem on the rear of the car when it has a little extra weight (like a couple medium dogs, or a few normal weight passenger in the back seat) when driving on ice conditions, the car rear of the car will sway left to right as if someone is pushing the back sides of the car left to right.this is uncontrollable side to side motion is very scary.all my other subarus 83 gl, 85brat, 92 ss, 92svx, 94 tw, never had this issue on the same types of roads. The older scoobs were rock solid, stable as a snowmobile on all conditions, and they never had dedicated snows, and could be loaded to the hilt, or not loaded at all, but the 06 outback cannot maintain a speed of 40 safely while truckers, yugos, neons, and those with worn summer tires pass going 55 not having trouble. When it happens, it like the whole back end, both rear tires, are on marbles with someone pushing the car left to right on the back windows.driving slower is not the solution, when you are already at 40mph and the car is doing weird motions in the back, and 99% of the others on the same road, same lanes, are not having control issues, they are cruising at 55-60 and almost all the cars are mashing the brakes to not rearend granny in the uncontrollable swaying outback.ah, so you say get dedicated snows. My other older soobs did not need them to be controllable, the other cars on the same icy road do not have dedicated snow and they have no problem.something in the back end design, and yes they did have a tsb alignment update, still is not allowing the vehicle to be as safe on ice as other cars are.
When driving my 2006 subaru outback 2.5i at freeway speeds for 30 or more minutes, the rear shocks lose their dampening ability due to overheating, and cause the vehicle's rear to bounce up and down uncontrolled. Over even the slightest dips in the road, the rearend will compress causing the vehicles suspension to compress and hit bump stops. This has happened on several occasions in the past, and in my opinion, make the outback difficult to control.subaru has inspected the vehicle, and stated it is per factory specs.
2006 subaru outback 17,500+mi. 14 mos. Oldrear struts [20365ag13a] have failed [leaked]vehicle is no longer safe to operatedealer & mfgr. Have not identified problemrequest for faulty parts denied for warranty reasons.
2006 subaru outback auto trans. On many occasions the vehicle's rear-end side-steps or oscillates on icy/snow-packed road conditions. This has also been described as "ghost-walking" where it feels like the awd system in the rear is over compensating, leading to the vehicle being uncontrollable. The behavior seems to happen in the 30-40mph range. Although, i prefer not to drive any faster than the road conditions allow, it can be very frightening when other 2wd cars and trucks are passing you going 20mph faster and it's difficult to even keep the car on the road or in a straight line.ihave hadthe alignment checked and had brand-new all season tires installed, with no resolution. The dealer has not found anything wrong.
The car in snow or icy conditions does not hold a straight line and the rear walks out and begins swaying uncontrollably.in contrast to other cars that are actually passing me and not swaying.
On many occasions the vehicle's rear-end side-steps or oscillates on icy/snow-packed road conditions. This has also been described as "ghost-walking" where it feels like the awd system in the rear is over compensating, leading to the vehicle being uncontrollable. The behavior seems to happen in the 30-40mph range. Although, i prefer not to drive any faster than the road conditions allow, it can be very frightening when other 2wd cars and trucks are passing you going 20mph faster and it's difficult to even keep the car on the road or in a straight line.
I experience a side-to-side shake on icy road conditions. It is very unsettling to the car and is not simply road conditions. Fwd, rwd, and other awd vehicles are not having any trouble and i+m doing everything i can to stay on the road and am driving as much as 20 - 30 mph slower than the next slower car on the road. There is something wrong with the subaru outback vehicle dynamics on ice.
Flashing, cruise control, and check engine light,no control and car surge and died on the interstate. From what i have read why is this not a recall.lives can be lost due to this being a major problem.
Our 2006 subaru outback was taken on an extended trip in the summer of 2006 where the alignment went so far out of true that the tires almost blue (problem corrected enroute).a 2nd extended trip was taken a few weeks ago where the same problem occurred, even though the dealers service department ok'd the car.the amount of weight in the car was no more than personal belongings and some food but, due to the alignment (as verified by subaru mechanics), the tires came frighteningly close to blowing.
I experienced my gas pedal no longer working while driving, car was driving well, on a residential street going about 25 mph, then there was suddenly no gas/acceleration, had to coast to a stop. The check engine light came on, cruise control light was flashing. About 2 hours later the car was running normal again. The diagnosis code given was p2138 throttle/pedal position sensor/switch d/e voltage correlation. It is very scary and unsafe to suddenly not have power while driving, will be driving on the outside lane until the problem is fixed to i can get out of traffic safely.
Takata recall letter dated 13 dec 2017 received 28 dec 2017 please update your records.i reported that this vehicle had been written off in october 2016 - more than a year ago.the licence plates were returned to wa transport.(please correct the form below- it applies to the us)
I am in my third season driving my 2006 subaru outback to lake tahoe for winter ski season.i've always felt confident driving on snowy or icy roads until my last two trips--christmas 2008, and new year's 2009.on these trips, i experienced very disturbing fishtailing that everyone in the car noticed, and i had to fight to compensate for.this occurred even on long straight sections.each time i had to slow down well below the flow of traffic, and the speed of previous trips.this issue made me wonder about improper tire inflation pressure, so we called the tire dealer, who confirmed this was not the cause.it felt as if the rear wheel traction was overcoming front wheel traction, that made me also wonder whether the all-wheel drive was functioning properly.i also considered weight as a cause, because one day i drove from reno to tahoe with only one passenger, and little cargo, and did not experience the problem.but, the fully loaded vehicle was no different than many trips the previous two seasons, when the fishtailing did not occur, and i could maintain sufficient speed to stay with the flow of traffic.same vehicle, same tires, same loads, same road, same conditions, yet much different performance.i noticed other similar complaints, some of which refer to "ghostwalking."please work on identifying the cause and solution for this issue, to prevent serious accident/injury.thank you.
About 4 weeks ago, on late saturday morning, driving down the interstate, from richmond, va my car caught on fire in hampton. The car jolted a little and would not accelerate. Pulled to the side of the road, smoke became visible, but the temperature gauge was not running high. A witness ran toward the car yelling to get out of the car because it was on fire. Even though 2 fire trucks were on the scene, it took a little while to extinguish the fire and everything under the hood was burnt to a crisp. Unfortunately, it was not recoverable. Are you aware of what may have possibly caused this to happen?
Fall of 2011 i started to notice a film, which was all over the dashboard, this film was of sticky substance and it was mainly or more noticeable on the parts of the dashboard that were most directly affected by the sun.this film was of such stickiness that hair, dust particles, paper, or anything that would come in contact with it would get trapped as if it was fly paper. I did everything that could had been done in order to if not eliminated, to make it acceptable and not so sticky and glue like.i went to the subaru dealer, where the car was purchased, in order to get some re-dress to this problem, in several occasions i was told this film, this stickiness came from using armor all, that it must come from some product i must have used on it.well, nothing ever came out of my many visits and conversations with the service manager, as the last resort the last time of my visit to the dealership, i insisted on them opening a case so subaru headquarter would be aware of it, after i called and obtain a complaint #, the subaru dealer in sanford was notified and then they made the appt to take the pictures, this was sometime this year march or april, about a week or so later, i was contacted by the subaru regional office and the representative went on to educate me by telling me that my car was out of warranty,they had no complaint of sticky dashboards on record, and 3rd that no matter how many time i went to the dealeror headquarters, i was not going to get my dashboard fixed or replaced. In closing thus let me say, that another japanese company toyota has already owned up to their responsibility for the sticky and shinny dashboard also referred to as melting dashboards:http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/14613/why-is-my-toyota-dashboard-shiny-and-sticky-and-how-do-i-clean-it
I'm driving along & suddenly all the lights go on & the accelerator pedal does nothing, the car just loses power. I have to pull over, not always in a safe spot, because it won't do anything!turn the car off & wait 5 minutes. Then it will start back up, with the check engine light & cruise control light blinking. After about 3 restarts those lights turn off. I've had theerror code read & its p2138. When a car just stops driving in the middle of traffic, it's very dangerous & i've been reading online that it's common in this year subaru & it needs to be addressed!!it's been happening more frequently & last time on the freeway!!!
P2138 check engine code. Vehicle lost all power while traveling 55mph in 4 lanes of traffic. Gas pedal didn't work and the engine was racing. Thankfully i was able to coast over into the left turn lane. The vehicle would only move forward while in drive and at a slow crawl. I was able to get a large enough window to crawl across the other 2 lanes and crawl into a parking lot. I ended up getting towed from there. When checking for repairs i had a smaller 'subaru only' repair shop tell me this is a very common problem and i am lucky no one was injured. They said they repair 1 to 2 of these each month. My local subaru dealer says they've never heard of the error code or my specific problem. They don't even stock the part i need. The internet has many reports of my specific scenario. This seems like a serious safety concern to me. Something is not right here but no by seems to be doing anything about it.
Sudden loss of accelerator control in traffic. Cannot rev engine or maintain speed above 600 rpm/5 mph; barely idling. Codes on ecu indicate throttle body positioning sensor failure. Eventually had to replace throttle body to resolve problem.
My wife was driving the vehicle when the check engine light came on. The cruise light started flashing. The gas pedal was non functioning. She was able to cost to a safe place. When i arrived the car was running. The gas pedal was unresponsive. I shut the car off and took her to work. An hour later i returned to the car and tried to start it. It took several seconds to start, but did. The gas pedal worked. The check engine light was on steady and the cruise control was flashing. I was able to get the car home. Today 10/20/12 the car has no symptoms. This could have been very scary as my wife was driving on the busiest street in montana during the morning commute.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated that while driving 20 mph, the vehicle suddenly decelerated. The contact also stated that the check engine lamp and cruise control warning lamp illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic, who diagnosed that a sensor on the accelerator pedal needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 30,000 and current mileage was 58,000.
I experienced my gas pedal no longer working while driving, car was driving well, on a residential street going about 25 mph, then there was suddenly no gas/acceleration, had to coast to a stop. The check engine light came on, cruise control light was flashing. About 2 hours later the car was running normal again. The diagnosis code given was p2138 throttle/pedal position sensor/switch d/e voltage correlation. It is very scary and unsafe to suddenly not have power while driving, will be driving on the outside lane until the problem is fixed to i can get out of traffic safely.
The same problem has happened several times over the past several months, randomly, while vehicle is in motion, both on highway and on auxiliary roads at lower speeds. On 01/20/2020, while driving ~65 mph on the highway, suddenly, the car lost power--although my foot was on the gas pedal, no acceleration was possible. The car "locked up," and began to decelerate, since no gas was available. The check engine light came on, with the flashing cruise light simultaneously on. Luckily, i was able to move the car across the highway and stop on the shoulder. The car was turned off, and i re-started and drove away. When this same type of event occurred another time, on 02/01/2020, the car was in motion on an auxiliary road, ~30 mph, in heavy traffic. The car again locked up, no gas was available--the car was only able to drift very slowly. I was able to make it to a stop light, which, luckily, was a red signal. At the stop, i shifted the gear into neutral. While in neutral, the engine revved to ~2500 rpm, even though no pressure was being applied to the accelerator pedal. I had to restart the car twice, but the problem didn't clear right away. After a few minutes, it did. In the several other instances when this very unsafe condition of loss of power/acceleration and revving in neutral has occurred, when the car resets, the check engine light also resets, so the code cannot be read in time. Following the most recent incident, i was able to read the error code: p2138 throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "d"/"e" voltage correlation. I have read many other reports to nhtsa and on subaru online forums of this very same problem. I have read that it may have been corrected on subsequent year models, but not on the 2005 and 2006, and dealers don't fix. This is a very serious, dangerous, life-threatening condition. I am afraid to drive my car. Please investigate. Should be a recall.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact was driving 60 mph when the engine light illuminated and he had no accelerator control. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection and repair. The dealer replaced the accelerator pedal assembly. The manufacturer was not notified of the incident. The approximate failure mileage was 45,000.updated 11/15/13the dealer replaced the accelerator assembly.
While driving on the highway, the check engine light came on and i immediately had no throttle response. Thankfully it was 10:30pm and there was a lower volume of traffic. I coasted off to the shoulder. Turned the vehicle off, restarted, and still no throttle response. Turned off again for about 15 minutes. This time there was throttle response, but cel was still on. The following day, the cel light was off and vehicle running fine. Now, a week later, it happened again. It is a very dangerous situation to all of a sudden have no power while driving. Especially when there is traffic around. The fear is being run into from behind, or being stuck on the side of the road and become prey for the unsavory. This situation needs to be remedied before someone dies.
Slowing at intersection to make a right turn when check-engine-light came on.cruise control light started flashing (vehicle was not in cruise control at the time)accelerator pedal became unresponsive (could get no acceleration out of the car when pressing the pedal) and was barely able to get through intersection to turn.after a minute or so was able to get enough power to run at about 10mph tops with hazards on to get a location where i could pull over out of traffic.car would not start immediately after (three cranks with no response)after a few minutes, though, it restarted and seemed to operate normally, no problems with speed.diagnostic code was p2138 (throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "a"/"b" voltage correlation.
2006 subaru outback.consumer writes in regards to an accident that was cause by vehicle sudden acceleration .the consumer stated she was backing out of a parking space, with her foot on the brake, when suddenly there was a jerking feeling and the vehicle accelerated, with the engine revving. When she applied the brake more firmly, the vehicle went even faster, and consequently, she hit another vehicle, which was then pushed into another vehicle. Earlier in the month, the consumer and her husband noticed the vehicle would jerk occasionally and the shifting was erratic.
2006 subaru outback.consumer writes in regards to vehicle sudden acceleration.the consumer stated on the morning of november 26, 2012, whole pulling out of a parking space in a public garage, the vehicle became uncontrollable and smashed into a concrete garage post and then the garage wall. There was significant damage to the car and to areas in the garage.the consumer stated as she started to leave the parking space, the vehicle accelerated backwards and hit a post. Not knowing what caused the problem, she put the vehicle in drive in order to move away from the post. The vehicle instantly accelerated, and her efforts to control it through applying the brake and steering were unsuccessful.the consumer sold the vehicle to the body repair shop for $500 after no longer feeling comfortable driving the vehicle.
Throttle failure.while driving throttle completely fails.no acceleration, car will only move at automatic idle speed. Cruise control light flashes, check engine light on.extremely dangerous -- very lucky it didn't happen in an intersection or while passing another car.turns out to be common for this model -- and mine has only 93,000 miles. I am attaching a sample from an online complaint site.this requires a recall.
Loss of power, no acceleration while driving at highway speeds.trouble code p2138 faulty throttle position sensor in the gas pedal leading to no acceleration.this happened while driving on the freeway at highway speeds (70 mph or so).suddenly there was no power when pushing the gas pedal and we had to make it to the shoulder on a busy freeway with no acceleration what so ever.this should be a recall!people can die with loss of power and acceleration on the freeway, or being stuck on a blind curve on a mountain road.very dangerous situation with this system!
There have been two incidents so far.one was traveling on the freeway at 65mph when the throttle completely stopped responding.the other incident occurred at much lower speeds when turning a corner and the throttle no longer responded.in both cases the car would not accelerate or maintain speed.pressing on the accelerator did not have any effect at all.in both cases the car would "coast" along at whatever speed the engine idling would move it - roughly 15 mph.
I was traveling on a 3-lane highway at the posted mileage (60 mph).simultaneously the check engine light came on and the gas pedal lost all power.the cruise light was also flashing.i tried flooring the gas pedal, but the vehicle continued to lose power and the speed rapidly decreased to less than 20 mph.this happened with absolutely no warning and no time to get off a busy thoroughfare.this occurred at approximately 3:00 pm, so fortunately the traffic was not extremely heavy.i was able to cut across 2 lanes of traffic that was going 60 mph +, exit on an off-ramp, and get to a safe location to call for a tow truck to take the vehicle to dealership for repair.the outcome was code p2138 (accelerator sensor).the sensor was replaced at a cost of $340.i purchased this vehicle new in 2006, and have kept it well maintained at the dealership per their service schedule.however, until this problem occurs, there?s no doubt it would have ever been caught by the dealer to repair. This is extremely dangerous because it could have caused a serious injury to me and other drivers.if it had been at another time, i could have been rear-ended by drivers going the posted speed limit.
I was driving at 60 mph when the accelerator pedal stopped responding. I couldn't accelerate or maintain speed. Had to coast to the shoulder thru traffic. The check engine light was now on and the cruise control light was flashing.the idle was at 2,000 rpms and the accelerator pedal was still not responding. I turned off the engine for about 2 minutes. When i turned it back on, the accelerator was working but the check engine light was still on and the cruise control light was flashing.read obd code p2138, reset code and check engine light went out.this is a very dangerous condition and should be recalled by subaru.
While driving at highway and city street speeds the check engine light comes on/the cruise control flashes and car goes limp, gas pedal stops working. A code that has shown up is p2138.very dangerous. When i put the car in neutral the engine revs to a constant 3,000 rpm. It has happened to me on 3 occasions.
I have experienced this twice in the past 3 months. Both time my car goes to limo mode. The check engine light comes on and the cruise control light flashes. The pedal does not rev the engine. After a number of tries, the pedal will become responsive again. After about 3 restarts once the engine is reving the check engine light and cruise will go out and the car will be normal until it does it again. When i read the code, it's p2138 indicating it's an issue with the 2 reducent sensors on the pedal disagreeing about where the pedal is.this is a very serious defect! call soa and asked to take it to the authorized dealership.bought the car at west subaru herr buffalo,live in canada now.
Error code p2138, lots of people are talking about how subaru is not fixing or calling out the defect in the accelerator pedal position sensor.issues with connections of the plug, water/dirt causing corrosion to not allow it to work, and dealers not fixing the real issue.i was driving and slowing down as light was red but then it changed to green.i pushed gas and wouldn't allow me to accelerate and check engine light came on.30 seconds later pretty much all of my indicator lights came on.cruise light was even blinking.videos i've been watching talk about fly by wire pedals and how it puts cars into limp mode.which is what it was doing when i first try to accelerate.i cleared a lot of codes by doing the cruise button reset which for now turned most lights off but still have limp mode issues when first trying to accelerate after a complete stop.
Drive-by-wire throttle receives signal error (p2138) and ecu cuts off throttle function. This presents a serious and dangerous condition as the driver is then entirely unable to modulate speed. This error has occurred three times with no warning on the same vehicle, and at various speeds and situations. The latest one occurred on a highway at approximately 60mph where collisions due to disabled throttle were narrowly avoided. This error and the vehicle's ecu response could kill someone.
While driving on the highway, the car went limp and lost all accelerator function. Check engine light illuminated and cruise control light was flashing.thankfully, was able to coast to the shoulder of the highway without incident.diagnosed with code p2138 and failed pedal position sensor. Based on subaru outback forum searches and identifix database, this issue is very common for 2005 and 2006 model year subarus. The pedal assembly was redesigned in 2007 but is not reverse compatible. This is a significant safety issue which subaru of america refuses to recognize.
While driving down the road, lost ability to accelerate, throttle failed to respond. This has happened 4 separate times now. Replaced accelerator assembly, but problem still continues without notice. Intermittent problem.
Just received "takata recall" letter stating there are now sufficient parts available. At the same time my check engine light came on and cruise light started flashing. I made an appointment for the recall work and to have the car checked out. I googled this and found that a code p2138 is found with this occurrence and it seems to be happening with many of these vehicles. My wife called me on her way home from work and said the car would not accelerate. She pulled off of the highway into a parking lot. I drove to her location. She started the car and gas pedal seemed to be operating as it should. I followed her home and was thankful there were no problems getting back. I will determine whether to drive vehicle or have it towed to dealer for scheduled appt. Next wed.kind of makes sense now because when i drove the car the day before to get gas, there was hesitation when accelerating, which i found unusual, as the car runs great with plenty of power.
Was driving to work and stopped at a light. Light turned green and i released the brake pedal, car started faster than normal with no pressure on the gas pedal. I pressed the gas pedal repeatedly but it did not respond. I pulled over and put the car in neutral and the engine started reving high light the pedal was stuck. I tried pressing the cancel button on the cruise control, thinking that it might have gotten stuck but that didn't work so i put it in park and turned it off. Tried turning it back on once and it didn't turn over. Tried it again and it turned on, but this time the check engine light was on, and the cruise control indicator was blinking. Could have been much worse if this was on the highway and it got stuck at a high speed, or if i was trying to turn onto a busy road and couldn't accelerate.
While coming to a stop at a traffic light, the check engine light came on along with a flashing cruise control light. When i started up there was no response from the gas pedal. My car started to roll and got up to 10 mph ( the speed limit was 45 mph). The rpm gauge stayed at 2000 rpms. I pulled on to a side street with my flashers on and parked. I turned off the engine and started it. Still no response from the gas pedal. I turned the car off a second time.this time the engine didn't start.i tried again and it take a long time (10 seconds) but it finally started.now the gas pedal responded.i drive my car home without incident but the check engine light stayed on and the cruise still flashed. I went to auto zone where they said the code was p2138. Thank goodness the traffic was light when this happened and i was able to find a side street.updated 12/21/15
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While depressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle failed to respond. While driving various speeds, the vehicle stalled and the check engine warning indicator illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact mentioned that the failure occurred intermittently. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 118,341.
I was driving at night at 55 mph in my 2006 subaru outback.the check engine light came on and the cruise control light started to blink.the accelerator pedal became unresponsive and it appeared that the car's engine went into idle mode.i was losing speed and decided to move my car to the shoulder of the road.i shut off my engine and waited a minute or two and tried to restart the car without success.a few minutes later i was able to restart the car and theaccelerator pedal seemed to function normally, although the two warning lights were still illuminated.the next day i started the car a couple of times, the accelerator pedal functioned normally and both warning lights were no longer lit.the car operated normally for about one week.this indentical problem recurred again one week after the first incident.i drove my 2006 outback to my independent subaru mechanic who read the error code as p2138.he has seen several of his client's cars with this problem recently and recommended that i take my car to a subaru dealer for inspection and repair.a few days later i had my outback serviced at my local subaru dealer.they diagnosed the problem as a faulty accelerator pedal sensor (integral to the pedal assembly) and confirmed the p2138 error code.the pedal sensor was replaced and (two days later) the car appears to be functioning normally again.the repair bill was about $320 for the parts and labor.i do believe this is a potential safety issue.although both times the accelerator pedal became unresponsive i was on a road with very few cars and had no difficulty getting safely to the side of the road. The situation could have been more dangerous if i was trying to change lanes at high speed with lots of traffic around me.
While driving 70mph in the fast lane down the highway i turned cruise control on. As soon as the cruise control was engaged all throttle was lost. While in motion i put the car in neutral then back into drive and nothing happened. The car was decelerating so i pulled off the highway. Once safely on the side of the road i turned the car off for several minutes and then back on. The acceleration capability returned but the check engine light was on. I took the car to a mechanic to read the code which came back as the throttle control sensor. This is a very dangerous defect and should be addressed by subaru america.
Vehicle is a 2006 subaru outback sedan 'll bean edition. Upon traveling to work at 5:30am, going up hill at 40 mpg, the gas pedal stopped workingbut the engine was at high rpm. The check engine light came on steady with cruise control light flashing.had to shut the car off, put on hazard lights as this was a dark road. Tried unsuccessfully twice to get the car to start. On the third try it started and pedal did work but the check engine lightstayed on with the cruise light flashing. Drove slowly to work which was a mile away and the safest place to park the car.upon getting it to my garage later that daythey scanned the codes from the computer and it showed a p2138-throttle /pedal positioning sensor. Had to get the complete gas pedal with sensor from a authorized subaru dealership and replace it. Was fortunate i was not in traffic or a major highway. This is a safety issue and needs to be addressed!
As i was driving on the freeway, suddenly the check engine light came on, i lost thrust even though the engine was still turning at 2000 rpm, and my car started to slow down. Luckily i was already in the right lane, so it was easy to pull off the road. I went to autozone to have them read the code. The code was p2138 which is the pedal position sensor.
Incident happened at a red light in traffic at rush hour.after pulling up to a red light to a full stop, the light turned green and the throttle stuck open at exactly 2500rpm. The car accelerated from a dead stop and continued to do so with no input from me.the gas pedal does nothing at all.i had to apply brakes and move off the road to avoid traffic.check engine light is solid and the cruise control light flashes.
While driving my subaru yesterday, i suddenly lost the ability to accelerate. The car speed dropped to 10 mph. I pulled off the road and restarted car twice. Barely enough acceleration to get car to 18 mph. The check engine light remained on and the cruise light blinked continously. Took car to dealer today. Error code is p2138. Dealer cannot find what is wrong with car. I am concerned about going onto highways and having this happen.
While driving at highway and city street speeds the check engine light comes on/the cruise control flashes and gas pedal stops working.a code that has shown up is p2138 "throttle/pedal position sensor/switch voltage correlation".very dangerous as i no longer can control the speed of the car.has happened multiple times.
First incident 4/8/12 - after down shifting and beginning to coast downhill at about 25 mph, the engine began revving as if the accelerator was being pressed and depressed slowly, the car did not respond to the accelerator, the check engine light turned on, and the cruise control light began to blink slowly.the car continued to move very slowly so were able to pull over.turned the engine off for a few seconds and after restarting, the car was responsive but both lights were still on.the dealer diagnosed a lose gas cap.second incident 4/18/12 - driving in heavy traffic on a highway at about 20 mph, same problem.turned the engine off while still in traffic and restarted immediately but the problem persisted.tried to do so several times while in traffic but the problem continued. Was able to get over to the shoulder, turned the engine off, for about 30 seconds. After restarting, the car was responsive again but both lights were still on.the dealer suggested a faulty throttle sensor but could not confirm until the car was checked.the problem code was given as p2138.the car has a manual transmission.
My wife was driving our 2006 subaru outback. She was driving in winter conditions. She was driving the 2 mile bridge to our home when the acceleration suddenly failed and the vehicle abruptly slowed from 55 mph to 35 mph.the roads had snow and ice on them.the vehicle behind her closed in on the rear of our subaru and began honking and flashing its lights.the check engine light in our car came on and the cruise control flashed.she was scared by the misfunction.the car revved up above 4000 rpms when she put it into park.she shut the vehicle off and i checked and found an error code.p2138. The accelerator has 2 circuits that relay the desired speed to the car's computer.when the circuits don't match the computer cuts the speed out of the vehicle.i think that the engineering behind this system needs to be re thought so that this doesn't occur.i read other reports online of people in heavy traffic who had near accidents.
Upon pushing the accelerator to enter traffic, there was no response from the throttle.the engine remained running and the car idled into the street and driver was able to avoid an accident and coast to a stop.vehicle was towed to dealership where the dealer service department diagnosed the cause as failure of the accelerator position sensor component of the throttle by wire system.
Same symptom happened twice: once just after starting from a service area on the interstate, the second on suburban roads i describe here.during a normal 30 mile suburban trip, after about 20 miles the vehicle suddenly lost power and the check engine light came on.the engine continued running but the accelerator pedal seemed to have no control over the engine speed or power.after coasting to a stop and turning the engine off for a minute the car started and ran normally, though the check engine light stayed on for a day or so.when we took the vehicle to the dealer after the first incident they were not able to interpret the check engine codes; after the second incident they found a p2138 code -- "accelerator position sensor" failure.they replaced the accelerator assembly and the vehicle seems to be running correctly again.as i understand it the issue is a failure in the accelerator position sensor: there are dual sensors in the assembly and if their readings differ the accelerator pedal is effectively "disconnected" and the driver loses all power. I believe this is a serious safety issue: the failure could just as well have taken place at high speed on the interstate without the possibility of a safe stop, and having the first indication of trouble being "losing all power" is not acceptable.
I was driving at 55 mph in my 2006 subaru outback. When i brake for slowing traffic, the check engine light came on and the cruise control light started to blink. The accelerator pedal became unresponsive and it appeared that the car's engine went into idle mode. I was losing speed and pulled to the shoulder of the road. I shut off my engine and a few minutes later i was able to restart the car. The accelerator pedal seemed to function normally, although the two warning lights were still illuminated. The next day i started the car a couple of times, the accelerator pedal functioned normally and both warning lights were no longer lit. My code reader found an error code of p2138, (unrecognized code), the car operated normally until 12/18/2012. This identical problem recurred and i again read the error code as p2138. This is a potential safety issue. Although both times the accelerator pedal became unresponsive, i was on a road with very few cars and had no difficulty getting safely to the side of the road. The situation could have been more dangerous if i was at freeway speed with traffic around me.
At highway speed the vehicle suddenly lost power. The check engine light came on solid with the cruise control light blinking. The car did not respond to any inputs from the accelerator pedal and began to decelerate. Upon stopping and shifting into neutral the car held itself around 2800rpm with no accelerator input from the driver. After reading the check engine light code, the car gave a p2138 indicating a problem with the pedal position sensor.
Sudden loss of acceleration while driving; connection between gas pedal and engine control is faulty. Forces driver to coast to a stop and turn off car. No ability to use gas to get out of the way faster.
I was driving straight down the highway going about 50-60 mph and out of nowhere my throttle peddle failed to work. My car immediately slowed down to a crawl and i had to quickly find a safe place to pull over on a road with barely any shoulder. Luckily not many cars were on the road so i did not have to worry about a pile-up accident. The check engine light came on and stayed on while the cruise control light began to flash on and off. After turning the car off and waiting a few minutes i decided to try and drive the car again since i was in an area with no service and it was below freezing outside. The car started and i could use the throttle peddle and the car drove with no problem for about 5 miles before the same exact thing happened. Luckily someone drove by and i was able to catch a ride with them to get service and call a tow truck. This issue came out of nowhere with no prior issues to the car. This is a very dangerous issue that could result in not only an accident on the road because of the rapid speed decrease but also risks leaving people stranded like i was.
I was parked in a shopping mall parking lot.when i started the engine and pulled out of the parking space the gas pedal was unresponsive.i just rolled along with no power.the check engine light came on and i rolled into another parking space.i read in the owner's manual that it could be an emission control problem or something to do with the gas cap.i took the gas cap off and re-seated it and when i tried to start the car again on the third try, the check engine light went off and the car had power again and the gas pedal was responsive.i took it to my mechanic and he found the code to be p3128.i was fortunate that this did not happen while i was on the highway or anywhere in busy traffic.i had the entire throttle/pedal assembly replaced at a cost of aprox. $500 and hope that this solves the problem.
While in motion, rapidly applying the brakes causes check engine light to come on, the cruise control indicator flashes and control of the accelerator pedal lost. The car essentially becomes limp and is not able to receive input from the accelerator pedal at this time. Turning the car off and letting it sit for 30 seconds and then turning the car back on re-provides control to the accelerator pedal. At this time the check engine light is still on. After a couple of days the check engine light goes off. My local authorized subaru shop traced the issue to a faulty accelerator pedal sensor. The entire assembly was replaced and the car is operating nominally. Two two instances where this caused a serious concern was when i was left stranded in the middle of an intersection when a car in front of me slammed on it's brakes and chose to turn right instead of the intended direction of travel straight through the intersection. The second time was to avoid an animal running across the road in front of the car. In both instances the car was moving at roughly 25mph.
While driving in traffic on i-95 the accelerator stopped responding and i had no control over the speed of the vehicle.after i pulled off the next exit, i had to put the car into neutral in order to bring it to a stop.my check engine light came on as well as the cruise control light.later, i checked for obd2 codes and came up with "p2138".after researching this issue, it appears that many subaru owners are having the same problem which appears to be caused by the "pedal travel sensor" part # 36010ag021.that part was redesigned after the 2006 model year.this is a very dangerous problem and i am very fortunate that no one was hurt through this part failure.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving at various speeds, the accelerator pedal was depressed and the vehicle failed to accelerate. The check engine warning indicator illuminated. The driver had to coast the vehicle to the shoulder and turn the ignition to the off potion and back on in order for the vehicle to operate normally. The failure recurred three times. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where the failure could not be duplicated. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 155,000.
Three times the engine rpm's speed up and the throttle peddle fails to work, the only way to reset this is pull to the side turn car off and it usually but not always resets. This has happened twice while car was in motion and once while car was in park. Luckily i was in a 40 mph zone when this happened and not on the highway. I have had the car looked at and it has a engine code that says there is a problem with the throttle system. It's only a matter of time that this happens when the car is in motion and throttle peddle is unresponsive and unable to pull to side of roadway.
No gas pedal response
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact was traveling 55 mph when the vehicle decelerated despite the accelerator pedal being depressed. The contact mentioned that the check engine and cruise control warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer twice. Also, the vehicle was taken to a private mechanic who confirmed that the accelerator pedal and sensor needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 45,052 and the current mileage was 45,078.
Was driving at approx 55 mph when all of a sudden check engine light came on, cruise light was flashing, and sport light was flashing, car slowed down to 10 mph and could not go any faster. It was revved up to redline and there was no response with the gas pedal. I was only 2 miles from my destination, so i limped it there and shut it off. I had it scanned with a code scanner and code "p2138" (throttle position sensor) came up. After much research i found it usually is related to gas pedal assy. It has not yet happened since clearing the code and making sure the plug on the pedal was tight.
I was driving the vehicle at a steady rate of 50mph. Suddenly the cruise control indicator light illuminated and began to flash as well as the check engine indicator light. The vehicle also became unresponsive to the accelerator when pressed or depressed. The vehicle would maintain a speed about 20mph even after coming to a complete stop. After pulling to the side of the road and engaging the hazard lights, i put the car in park. The rpm gauge then skyrockets to 3000-4000 rpm and the engine becomes really loud. I turn the key off and let the car sit for a few minutes. Neglecting to sit for a few minutes results in the same behavior. After starting the car again the cruise control indicator light still flashes and the check engine indicator light remains on. After 3 restarts both indicator lights are off and all seems fine. After taking it to the dealership they told me it is a "bad accelerator and it has been replaced recently". The dealership then reset the code. This has happened over 10 times in the last 3 months and continues to happen on a random basis. Loss of power and control is unsafe and needs to be addressed.
In the 2006 subaru outback 3.0 the throttle is controlled electronically.this failed on me while driving at 70 mph down the freeway.the gas peddle stopped responding.i could not accelerate or maintain speed.i had to pull over.after about 1 minute i restarted the car and the throttle started to respond again.my check engine light is now on and the cruise control light is blinking.this is a safety hazard and needs a fix.after reviewing many forums, it doesn't sound like subaru knows what is causing the issue.but there are some "recommendations".
While driving home the check engine light came on and the cruise control light began flashing. The car began to decelerate and the accelerator pedal became unresponsive. Vehicle continued to idle normally, but depressing the accelerator had no affect on the engine. Searching forums returns that this is a very common and dangerous issue with the drive-by-wire throttle of these vehicles. Had it happened on the freeway as opposed to a 30mph residential street, it would probably have resulted in an accident.
On three occasions within a two week period i was driving on city streets and the car would not accelerate when the gas pedal was depressed. On these occasions i was starting from a red light or just after i had braked for something, depressed the gas pedal and the speed did not change. The check engine light came on, the cruise control light flashed and the car went into limp mode. I limped to the side of the road and turned the engine off. On the first try to restart the car it would not turn over. After waiting and trying again the car turned over and the gas pedal would work. The check engine light and the flashing cruise control light remained on and went off after starting the car a couple/few times. I went to my mechanic to check the car and he found p2138 three times in the history. This happened once when entering a traffic circle and twice while crossing intersections, very dangerous! info on this site and a subaru outback forum shows this to be a problem many have experienced. I called the manufacturer.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving at 70 mph, the accelerator pedal was depressed, but the vehicle failed to accelerate. The vehicle lost power, the cruise control deactivated, and the check engine warning light illuminated. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the throttle position sensor needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 182,000.
While driving car check engine light will come on and cruise control light will flash. Car goes into limp mode and the accelerator will not longer respond dropping the cars speed drastically. This can happen on any road, at any speed, and any weather condition. Temporary fix is to stop and cycle the cars power three or four times. More permanent fix is to replace the pedal assembly-accelerator at a cost of $199. Happened a few dozen times before i finally got the pedal assembly replaced. Issued started early 2016, and replaced the assembly in 2018.
Incident initially started in february, went to accelerate after starting car in the am, did not respond, cel and flashing cruise button came on, engine seemed to idle and wouldn't respond to trying to accelerate again. Turned engine off, tried to turn back on, would not start. Repeated process with starting 2-3 times until started again. Cel and flashing cruise remained on for a couple days, took to repair garage and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong on the diagnostic run. This has continued to occur off and on for the last several months. I have taken it to 2 different shops who could never find anything wrong with the car or get it to reproduce when they drove it, and then to dealer 2 weeks ago, they replaced throttle body and did a fuel injector service. Again, this morning, accelerating at 30-40 mph in start/stop traffic, could not accelerate at 30 mph, engine started to rev, pulled over to side, shut off engine, repeated 2 more times, again cel and flashing cruise. These lights are still on but car drove normally. Very frustrated as i cannot get it to reproduce for shop or for dealership because it happens so erratically.
On two different occasions in the last two weeks, i was driving my outback, when itwent "limp". The engine was running but there was no response when i pressed the accelerator. My car continued to move forward at the speed i was driving. When i pressed the brake, it slowed but, when i let up on the brake, the engine continued to rev and my car continued in forward motion before totally dying out from under me. Fortunately, i was on a side street near my house. On the first occasion, after a period of time, the engine stopped revving and i coasted to a stop. On the second occasion, i was pulling in my drive, after a two mile trip, when the same thing happened. The motor continued revving with the car moving forward and i had no control of the accelerator. When i tried to brake,the car would slow down but immediately pick up when i let up on the brake. I nearly hit a 6' bank of firewood at the end of our drive.
Driving on the highway, the check engine light came on soon followed by the flashing cruise control light. At the point, the car became no longer responsive to the accelerator. I was forced to pull over because after breaking, i couldn't speed back up. Turning the car off and on again did not solve the problem. When i turned the car on the engine revved at a high speed with the cruise control light still flashing. I eventually had to get the car towed.
Happened twice in one week. All of sudden, accelerator not responsive and lost of power. Check engine light comes on and cruise flashing. After turning on and off or stay off for a night, lights went out themselves. Error code p2138 accelerator position sensor. Check sensor no obvious loose on connector. Press connect on and no issue so far. It seems the connector too close to the floor and easy to kicked or touched by foot. \car was bought in buffalo west herr subaru and used in toronto.
While traveling down a residential road, my 2006 outback sedan lost acceleration control and went into limp mode in which it was only idling and had no control from accelerator.the check engine light illuminated and the cruise control light began blinking.i turned the engine off from drive, moved the shifter to park and restarted the vehicle after a minute or so.it started up fine but seems to be idling low, sputtering and hesitating a little.especially when reversing slowly or pressing the accelerator very lightly from idle.a mechanic nearby said the problem code was reading "bad throttle position sensor."i believe the error code was p2138.upon researching the issue and as others have suggested, this is supposedly a common problem yet no real reason for the failure can be identified.some have said that replacing the throttle body which includes the aforementioned sensor helped the situation.other said that replacing the accelerator pedal assembly which includes the accelerator pedal position sensor has helped.in a few cases with both repairs, the problem recurred.i am bringing my vehicle to the dealer to read the history of failure codes and repair the problem.a note to fellow complainants out there, please update your post if you had a repair done which solved the problem and how long it has been since an recurrence if any since the repairs were made, it really would help the rest of us out there who don't want to let the dealerships scratch their heads and charge us for unnecessary repairs.
I was driving on the highway traveling about 70 miles per hour in the mountains of colorado when my car's accelerator stopped working. I was on a sharp downhill curve when i was no longer able to accelerate my car to keep up with traffic.this was extremely dangerous as i was almost hit by the cars behind me. There was no warning prior to the incident.
Accelerator pedal goes limp and unresponsive at random moments including highway driving. It has happens more and more often and other subaru owners have said the same. It seems to happen the most during colder weather and the cars gas pedal becomes completely unresponsive and requires the car to be pulled over over and turned off to sit for a some time. When putting the car into park the rpms jump up and rev higher to around 4000, unsure of what's causing it.
P2138 code - throttle issue --- today as i was driving to work, luckily on a side street,when the check engine light came on and the cruise control light began to blink.then i lost power to the engine while it was still running.i normally take the highway to work but this day there was snow and ice so i decided to take the side streets instead.i pressed the gas pedal with no response.i coasted to a side street and turned in with no incident, thank god.i was near a toyota dealership and i asked for their help but they said they did not work on subaru.i was just about to call aaa when i thought to restart the car to see if it would go so i could take it somewhere else.i gave it gas and it went.the check engine light and cruise control was still on.i drove slowly to another service place and they found the code p2138 and said i could drive it but to get it to a dealership as soon as i could.the subaru dealerships are not located in my town and takes 20-30 by highway to get to one of them.i am very unsure of driving on the highway now and have this happening again.i drive the highways a lot in order to fit my daily schedule.this is especially true for me to see elderly mother who lives 30 minutes away by highway.i love my subaru even after having had the typical 2006 problems like head gasket leak and such which i consider acceptable for the mileage i have on her.i had planned on getting another subaru in the future but not having power is extremely scary and will make me shop elsewhere if this is typical. Updated 4/21/16
Repeated pedal slip codes 'p2138' happens about once a day now and happens from stop to start positions at random times.
Subaru outback/legacy 2006 - intermittent issue over a few months.the check engine light comes on, cruise control flashes and car goes limp, gas pedal stops working.after car goes limp, engine needs to be turned off, but once car is put in park for it to be turned off, the engine revs to approx. 2000 rpms on its own.the car then has to sit for a few minutes to attempt to turn the car on and the gas pedal to work again.this problem has thrown the code p2138.this is a serious safety issue, even more so as it has happened while on the freeway, where the car will lose speed due to the accelerator pedal not working and the car has essentially become a roadblock in the middle of fast oncoming traffic.this could have potentially caused serious accidents.after researching this particular problem online, it appears that many others with this exact car make/year have had the same issue and it is prevalent to this particular car.subaru needs to conduct an investigation and offer a safety recall of this vehicle - at the very least, the cost of repairs to fix this known and prevalent issue with this car needs to be covered by the manufacturer.
My car has been experiencing episodes where it suddenly stops accelerating while i am driving. This has happening both on city streets, and on the highway. It's mostly about 5 minutes after i initially turned the car on, but not always. I will be driving normally and all of a sudden the check engine lights and cruise control lights will come on and then the car will instantly stop accelerating with no additional warning. The most recent time this has happened, my car actually sped up without me pressing on the gas pedal. The code reads p2138. After turning my car off and waiting a few minutes it drives fine (although sometimes the lights are still on). I have had a subaru dealership check out the problem and after looking at the car for about one week they could not find the problem. The problem is that this issue appears suddenly but then goes away so that by the time i can get it over to a mechanic it is no longer an issue. This has been going on for about 4 months and i would say i've experienced the issue about 6-7 times. It is very dangerous when i am driving on the highway and the car stops accelerating.
I was driving when the accelerator pedal stopped responding.i couldn't accelerate or maintain speed.the check engine light was now on and the cruise control light was flashing.i pulled over and the idle was at 2,000 rpms and the accelerator pedal was still not responding.i turned off the engine for about 5 minutes.when i turned it back on, the accelerator was working but the check engine light was on and the cruise control light was flashing.
While driving down i-25 the car lost all power and had no acceleration. The car would only idle, i noticed a check engine light on. I had the car towed to a repair shop and when the code was read a p2138 that had to do with the accelerator the mechanic said it happens alot with this year subaru. He told me by just shutting the car off and waiting a few minutes it would have driven normal,when he started it again it did drive normal. He sends them to a subaru dealer and tells the people that if enough of us complain or fill in a report then something may be done. This is a very unsafe car if it loses all power driving down the highway!
While driving at speed - city street 45mph -- lost ability to throttle. No throttle, engine, or acceleration response when pressing gas pedal. Check engine and cruise lights blinking. After pulling over, turned off engine.upon restarting after a minute, throttle capability returned. This has happened twice, unexpectedly.
While traveling at highway speed the gas pedal quits working and car goes into limp mode,this is where car travels at 30 mph with no control from the gas pedal, the check engine light comes on and the cruise control light flashes, the only way to reset the fuel pedal is to pull over, shut car off for 1 min. And restart pedal will work but check engine light and cruise control light will flash until error code is reset. Code is p2138 . This may fix pedal temporary but it will happen again. When pedal quits working this is very dangerous in heavy traffic. This has happened to the car at leased 20 times, have not found a permanent fix yet. Needs to be recalled and repaired
I was driving with my 10 month old in the car when it suddenly began to deccelerate.i pressed on the gas pedal and got no response.the check engine and cruise control lights began flashing at this time as well.fortunately i was on a rural road (speed limit 40 mph) and was able tolimp along to a pull off.i turned the engine off and let it sit for 5 minutes.when i turned the car back on i was able to drive again.the check engine light was on when i initially started the car but turned off when i began driving again.the same event occurred 4 days later when i was taking my 4 year old to preschool.i turned off a 25 mph street into his school when the check engine light came on and the gas pedal quit working.i should note that when the gas pedal "quits working" the car will not let me go above 15 mph.once again, i was able to turn the car off and when i started it back up the gas pedal worked again.i took the vehicle to a local mechanic who replaced the accelerator pedal and sensor.fortunately i was on rural roads when both of these events happened, but this would have been terrifying if i was on a busy road or freeway, especially with 2 small children in the car.
While driving at 65 mph, car began to "buck" and lost power. Cruise control light began to flash and check engine light was steady. Happened exactly the same again today, 6/3/2014. Problem was coded as p2138 and accelerator assembly was replaced one year ago. Car will need to go in to mechanic again today. Expect similar problem.
Vehicle suddenly lost power, would not accelerate when accelerator pedal was depressed.when car was turned off and ignition turned, the vehicle was idling at a high rpm.when placed into drive vehicle would move forward at 15 mph, but there was no response from the accelerator pedal.engine light went on, as did the cruise control light.depressing the cruise control on/off button did not change cruise control indicator.took into the dealership and they cleared the code and returned the vehicle back to me.the same thing occurred several days later.when i took it into the dealership, they told me the accelerator pedal assembly was malfunctioning and they charged me $403.88 as a replacement.i see now on the web that others have had this problem.this is a very dangerous fail and could have caused a serious incident.it is also very frustrating because it all occurred within a few days of having $2400 of service already on the vehicle (engine head gaskets replaced, timing belt, trans fluid flush, tire rotate), and i had to take it back to the dealership 3 times in order to get issues dealt with (twice with the accelerator issue, once because they had failed to properly tighten the power steering belt).
I was driving at approximately 55, miles per hour the eng went to ide speed, the check eng light came on. I drifted off the side of the road, the throttle was unresponsive. Read the code out and it was for throttle pedal position sensor. It has happened twice since, this could be dangerous if in major traffic such as on a freeway. It could cause a crash. This seems to be an issue with subaru, i have researched it and many people report this in forums on the internet.
When driving on the highway at 75mph the engine light and cruise control light came on and the accelerator became unresponsive.after pulling over and restarting the car it worked fine.this has happened 7 times so far and after reading many posts on outback forums it seems that this is a very common and dangerous problem that needs to be figured out by subaru.
Engine lost power and had to pull to side of road. Retrieved error code p2138 (accelerator pedal position sensor) from (dlc) data link connector in car.
Car will suddenly go limp.with no warning or anything the car is still running but there is no throttle or throttle pedal response.you can floor the gas pedal and nothing happens.it has happens while driving down a road and all you can do is hope that you can get to the side of the road.i was driving down a country road when this last happened.i came to a turn where you either have to stop or merge to the right onto another road.as i went to accererate there was no response from the car.i looked down and the check engine light is on as well as the cruise control light is now flashing.i tried turning the car off and back on several times.i finally shut the car off for 3-5 minutes before the throttle would respond. If this happened on the a busy freeway with heavy traffic, it could be very dangerous!!
On street, from park with engine idling, car in drive, accelerator pedal dead at first, then high rpm 3000+ withpedal released. No control of engine rpm. Cel and cc illuminated on instrument panel. Put transmission in neutral. Killed ignition switch. Engine shut down. Restarted engine and rpm was normal. Very frightening!found dtc p2138 acc pedal sensor failure. Called subaru support, no such record of failure. Called dealer from which car was purchased, answer was bring car in and will try to repair. This is a serious failure and danger. Please see this failure on google. Many people are reporting the same issue. I am apprehensive to put this car on the road especially with other people in it. An investigation should be pursued in these drive by wire vehicles as this car is. Please take this seriously..thank you
Accelerator randomly stops working. Once you stop the vehicle and wait about 10-15 seconds then restart i seems to work fine. Also check engine and cruise lights flash when this occurs. So far this has only happened right after starting the vehicle while leaving a driveway or parking lot so at slow speeds. If this happens on a 6 lane freeway system, it could be very dangerous!!!!!!!
While driving down the highway i lost the ability to accelerate forward, meaning my gas pedal stopped working and i began to coast.at the moment i lost the ability to accelerate, my check engine light appeared and my cruise control became disabled.luckily, i was able to safely pull to the side of the road.after turning on and off the engine several times, i was then able to accelerate again. I then went to o'reilly's to have a diagnostics performed, which resulted in code p2138 (throttle pedal position sensor d-e voltage rationality).this problem continues to occur without warning.
I was driving on the interstate and when i got onto the exit ramp, the vehicle gas pedal stopped working and the check engine light came on along with flashing cruise control light.i coasted into a dealership with hazard lights on at about 10mph. Diagnosis was a faulty accelerator pedal sensor.this could have been very dangerous if i was in heavy traffic or still on the interstate.car only has 53,000 miles on it.
I was stopped at a traffic light, when the light changed i attempted to give the car gas to begin moving and there was no power in the pedal.all the lights on the instrument panel were on and the radio was playing.i had some power and was able to move out of the flow of oncoming traffic.i parked but did not turn the car off.i turned on my hazards and tried the pedal again.nothing! i turned the car off and restarted the engine.at this point the check engine light came on and the cruise control light began flashing.i attempted and this time there was power in the pedal.the check engine light remained on and the cruise control light is flashing.i have dropped the car off at my mechanic.this was scary with traffic bearing down on me at rush hour and no where to go initially.i am just very thankful i was not traveling at a high rate of speed when this occurred.
Driving in busy traffic on freeway, highways, and streets, cruise and engine lights came on, no response when applying gas pedal, car coasted into slow cruise, eventually down to about 15 mph. Again, no response to applying gas pedal. Thathappened sporadically.had near fatal accidents a couple times then it stopped and two or three weeks later throttle turned on revving up to 500 in idle, over 300 when driving. Trying to stop at intersections, brake malfunctioned, nearly hit several people trying to get home.engine racing out of control.this stopped briefly, drove errand, and withno foot on gas pedal, car was speeding up on highway uphill and still accelerating at 78 mph.brakes did not work consistently, jumped a curb, when trying to pull over and turn off engine.had to have car towed.repair of throttle senior $365 at local dealership in portland, or.i asked them to review all the documentation i found here and elsewhere showing this was a known problem and they ignored me entirely.this was very dangerous and scary.i feel subaru should pay this repair.it easily could have killed me and others here, and others in the future.park your subaru if this happens and you cannot afford repair.file a complaint with subaru.don't do what i did out of desperation and drive it, because it could really could kill you.find another way to get to work. Trucks on roadways cannot avoid you if no engine power with no notice and nowhere safe to pull off, which happened to me.
2006 subaru outback.hi,problem (1) head rest is so big that between the seat belt strap and the head rest there is no view to see vehicles about to pass in the left hand lane.can result in side swiping when changing lanes.all the safety features in the world won't help if the end result of the feature is to cause injury or fatality.safety problem (2) the speedometer.in order to make the instrument panel look "cute" you have destroy the ability to see what speed the vehicle is moving.no need to go to 140 mph to start with.the jumps between markings make it just about impossible to quickly determine the speeds 50, 60, and 70mph and forget trying for 55,65,75.what do you intend to do about these two very serious safety problems on my 2006 subaru outback??????i am "dead" serious about this and will search all possibilities for a remedy.
I was accelerating to get on the freeway entrance in my subaru outback (with my wife and two small children) when i notice a complete loss in throttle response.the car was just barely moving due to the engine idle.check engine light came on.i drove at that pace to a parking lot to check my options.i had not noted, until now, that this car has no throttle cable and is completely drive-by-wire.i looked at the connection of wire harness to the pedal assembly and did not see any red flags - no corrosion, etc.it appeared to be in good shape. I shut the car off, waited about 30 sec, and restarted it.it then got us home.when i got home tonight, i ran my obd diagnostic tool and got a p2138 error code.this is listed as "throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "d"/"e" voltage correlation" trouble code description.i am going to check into my options tomorrow, but felt this was worth reporting since it appears there are others out there that have experienced this problem as well.there is definitely a safety concern with a failure of this nature as i was traveling at a good rate and in traffic.luckily, everyone is ok - but my wife and i worry when this will happen again.thanks.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact stated that while driving 65 mph, the accelerator failed to respond to acceleration attempts. The contact also mentioned that the check engine warning light and the cruise control light illuminated intermittently. The vehicle also erroneously decelerated while the accelerator pedal was being depressed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the technician stated that the accelerator pedal would need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 94,000.updated 12/30/13
While the vehicle was in operation both in park, and in motion, and while both turning and going straight, the throttle intermittently stopped responding to all input, and the vehicle only ran the engine at over idle rpms (about 2100rpm in neutral). The problem would usually persist through several restarts. Eventually the car would restart at normal idle, and the throttle would be responding again. The vehicle code indicated to my mechanic that the throttle position sensor needed replaced, however after replacing it, the problem has persisted. I have read many accounts of this issue online over the past few years, and any issue regarding vehicle acceleration while driving should be considered a serious problem. Subaru needs to issue a response and acknowledge this problem.
The cruise and check engine lights flash. Car looses power and stalls while driving.
I was driving when suddenly my car would not go forward more than a few mph, the check engine light came on and the cruise control was flashing. Thankfully i was only doing about 30 miles an hour in town. I pulled over, turned my car off, turned it back on and it wouldn't start. I started it for a 2nd time and it started and i drove home. I took it to my subarus only mechanic of 17 years (i'm on my 4th subie) who thought the error code of p2138 was odd. He told me to let him know if it happened again....and it did a few days later so i took it back in. My mechanic called subaru and found out this was not an uncommon problem. I've only had it back a day so i'm not sure if the problem has been fixed. I certainly hope it has as i'm terrified of the thought of this happening on the highway doing 70 mph on my way to work in horrible traffic. After getting on the internet, this long-time subaru lover is surprised and disappointed that subaru hasn't done a recall on this problem. This is a very dangerous issue that needs to be addressed.
Vehicle lost throttle response suddenly.was able to coast at about 20mph off of an interstate to a safe locationcode check indicated p2138 throttle position sensor fault.
First occurrence 12/5/11. I was driving through a parking lot and check engine light came on as i lost the ability accelerate.i coasted to a parking space, shut my car off and was waiting for a tow truck.after and hour i turned my car back on and all seemed fine.i took it straight to the dealership where they found problem p2138, accelerator pedal assembly problem.they replaced the accelerator pedal.all seemed to be working fine. Second occurrence 1/21/12.i was driving along a side road, check engine light came on as i once again lost the ability to accelerate.shut the car off, sat for a few minutes and turned it back on.i was able to drive but the check engine light was still on.i got my car home and hooked up the diagnostic computer to it and got the same p2138 code.i readjusted the wires connecting the accelerator and check engine light went off.my concern is that this problem is going to occur when i am driving on the highway.obviously the replacement of the accelerator pedal is not the solution to this problem.
While traveling on the freeway the check engine light came on, as well as a blinking cruise control light. The car would not respond topressure on the gas pedal and i was unable to accelerate. I coasted to the shoulder of the road and turned the engine off. After starting the engine again, i was able to drive off the freeway and went straight to my mechanic. The diagnosis was trouble code p2138 faulty throttle position sensor in the gas pedal leading to no acceleration. The gas pedal assembly was replaced.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving at 35 mph, the contact attempted to depress the accelerator pedal however, the pedal remained in the upright position. The vehicle shifted into limp mode. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The contact pulled over, turned off and restarted the vehicle. The vehicle was driven to the residence. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was not taken to be diagnosed nor repaired. Neither a dealer nor the manufacturer were notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 160,000.
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. The contact was driving 55 mph and attempting to accelerate but the vehicle would not respond. The check engine light illuminated as the engine was turned off momentarily and the failure would reset itself until recurring with the illumination of the check engine light. The vehicle was previously taken to the dealer in which a diagnostic test was performed and it was determined that the accelerator had failed. The accelerator pedal was replaced yet the failure recurred. A second diagnostic was performed which also indicated a failure within the accelerator pedal. The dealer was unable to determine the cause of the failure and the vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and informed the contact to take the vehicle back to the dealer and offered no further assistance. The vehicle was not repaired further. Updated 02/23/11updated 04/28/11
The contact owns a 2006 subaru outback. While driving various speeds, the check engine indicator illuminated and the cruise control warning indicator began to flash. As a result, the contact mentioned that the vehicle failed to accelerate. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the accelerator pedal failed and needed to be replaced. In addition, the accelerator position sensor and the epm were also replaced. The failure recurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failures. The approximate failure mileage was 77,000.
I was driving at night at 55 mph in my 2006 subaru outback.the check engine light came on and the cruise control light started to blink.the accelerator pedal became unresponsive and it appeared that the car's engine went into idle mode.i was losing speed and decided to move my car to the shoulder of the road.i shut off my engine and waited a minute or two and tried to restart the car without success.a few minutes later i was able to restart the car and theaccelerator pedal seemed to function normally, although the two warning lights were still illuminated.the next day i started the car a couple of times, the accelerator pedal functioned normally and both warning lights were no longer lit.the car operated normally for about one week.this indentical problem recurred again one week after the first incident.i drove my 2006 outback to my independent subaru mechanic who read the error code as p2138.he has seen several of his client's cars with this problem recently and recommended that i take my car to a subaru dealer for inspection and repair.a few days later i had my outback serviced at my local subaru dealer.they diagnosed the problem as a faulty accelerator pedal sensor (integral to the pedal assembly) and confirmed the p2138 error code.the pedal sensor was replaced and (two days later) the car appears to be functioning normally again.the repair bill was about $320 for the parts and labor.i do believe this is a potential safety issue.although both times the accelerator pedal became unresponsive i was on a road with very few cars and had no difficulty getting safely to the side of the road. The situation could have been more dangerous if i was trying to change lanes at high speed with lots of traffic around me.
Gas pedal quits working leaving my daughter stranded, must be in the drive by wire electrical system, looking at forums, this is a common issue.
No heat, air and of all defrost for the front window stops working while driving, also everything is controlled thru the radio whick could have bad cold solder joints . Very dangerous when shuts down while driving on the highway
The 2006 subaru outback limited was moving at about 60 mph down the highway with no traffic around. A noise of shattering glass was heard, although no evidence of broken glass was immediately noticed. When the car was stationary, the owner observed the vehicle and found the front panoramic sunroof glass panel had shattered. There were no vehicles around when this incident happened and the temperature had been very stable up to that point in the day. (11 am, october 17th, 2017.) no evidence of an impact was found as the window had no chips or holes from an impact, but the entire front sunroof panel of glass was completely cracked into tiny pieces.
I noticed a glare in the windshield above the dashboard making it difficult/annoying to see.this appears to be due to the dashboard melting and losing the "grainy" effect which reduced the glare.the dash is sticky and very reflective in the windshield.
Rear wiper ceased functioning.the problem was due to broken wire(s) in a wiring harness that passes through a rubber accordion boot between the car body and the tail-gate (near the right-hand tailgate hinge). Many of the other wires, affecting upper brake light, license plate lights, backup lights, and tailgate latch/lock, were frayed and were replaced due to imminent failure of the above listed components.research at an online forum for subaru owners showed that many other owners (of 2005 and 2006 subaru outbacks) have experienced similar failures due to broken wires in this wiring harness. I suspect that it is an under-reported problem.i believe that subaru should be asked to issue a safety recall notice.
My new 2006 subaru outback will not fully defrost the front windshield on the passenger side.my dealer told me there have been complaints in the past, but there is nothing they can do about it!i feel it is a real safety hazard while driving.
Subaru outback began to exhibit "ghost walking" while driving straight during a winter storm. Rear end attempted to race the front end, and could not regain control. This "ghost walking" is well discussed in the online form at subaruoutback.org. Car eventually made it to the edge of the road where it then proceeded to roll 3 times. The experience was not the normally sliding on ice. The rear end seemed to have a mind of its own.
Vehicle becomes very unstable on icy roads at relatively low speeds.excessive rear tire wear suggests defect in construction of this vehicle.problem persisted even after a 4 wheel alignment and new tires last winter.rear tires completely worn out in less than one year.
Recently had to replace a rear wheel bearing in my 2006 subaru legacy outback, which only has approx. 46,000 miles.my mechanic indicated that he has seen several of these failures in the newer subarus, but that subaru has not issued a recall notice.
Front wheel bearings failed. Initially, the noise happened around 30-40 mph. Then the noise (grinding/rotational) got progressively louder and started happening even at low speeds (under 20 mph). Eventually, the noise was accompanied by vibrations/shuddering when the broken bearing supported the load of the car on every rotation of the wheel.
2006 subaru outback head gaskets went bad at about 35,000 miles.had to replace those called subaru and they help me get those replaced. Thought all was well soon after, the electrical system including the air conditioner and the heater .then i was told that the airbags were defaulted and to bring it into replace them which i did. The final straw is that they called me again two weeks ago to bring the rigging to replace that same airbag again. I asked them why they gave me a car that wasn't safe. The wheel bearings also wore out very early around 50 miles. This car has been so expensive. And now they informed me that there was a second recall on the airbag. So i bring it in for the second time realizing that now in 2021 this car has not been safe the whole time i've been driving it with my family my daughter learned how to drive in this car and so did my son. As they were repairing the faulty airbag they cracked the dashboard and then informed me that it would be $300 to fix it because it had a tiny crack in it. Please note that they were the ones that took the dashboard off in the first place. Super rude! i called subaru of america and they decided to reimburse me for the dashboard. They were talking about gluing it back together last i heard i'm very much hoping this is not the case my daughter ensures me that it isn't but we'll see. Also he informed me that my head gaskets were leaking again. The mechanic said that this is common once you've had your gaskets replaced. This makes no sense to me. My car has about 160,000 miles on it and it seems like it's already played out and not safe. What a joke. I'll never buy a subaru again.this has been the worst car and apparently the most unsafe car i've ever owned. Note:this car was consistently unsafe while driving for the last 15 years. I bought it because it had a five star rating for safety what a joke!
Rear wheel bearings on both sides had to be replaced. This is a known problem (faulty wheel bearings) in 2005 and 2006 outbacks and subaru has an extended warranty covering certain vins under 100k, but my vin was not in that list.
Read more
