We found the following complaints for SUBARU CROSSTREK (2016)
Read complaints for SUBARU CROSSTREK (2016)
This is a suspected problem with the side airbags located in the driver/front passenger seats. The seat upholstery has two straps that guide the airbag into the upholstery seam when the airbag deploys. Over time, the straps chafe on the sharp edges of the seat frame and wear through. As a result, there is a risk that the seat airbag will not deploy correctly.i discovered this problem when i was performing the following procedure https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/mc-10140486-9999.pdf.to be clear, my airbag has not deployed and i do not know what would happen had the airbag deployed.i'm attaching some photos. The photos show the two straps, one of which is mostly worn through. They also show the straps in their intended install location. There is a photo with some arrows and comments.another thing to note is that i have seen multiple seats with this problem from cars with much lower mileage. I have another set of seats from a subaru wrx that also has this issue. Subaru seats share a common architecture and the airbags are the same on crosstrek/impreza/wrx/forester.in addition, a fix seems rather simple. This would involve applying some strong tape to the sharp edges of the seat frame to cover the sharp edges.
My battery keep draining all the time since i bought the car i have changed 3 of them. Two of the battery were still okay but i still changed them. Also, all the warning lights on the dashboard keep on and off without the check engine light. I brought the car to the dealer and they fixed the brake switch recall and i also mention the problem to them but they could not find anything wrong with the car. Few days later, i brought the car back to the dealer because the warning lights were on and off on the dashboard. They diagnosed the car and said the car need to replace the valve body transmission which i doubt that my car has problem with the transmission. I also have done some research and a lot of people who own the subaru have that same issue. I personally used to own the subaru brz and that car also has the problem with the battery and the dealer just replaced it for me.
When the car is put in park the keys automatically lock in the ignition and cannot be removed. When searching the internet for this issue it came up numerous amounts of times. Someone found out the issue that subaru installed faulty connectors near the shifter. That is supposed to send a signal to the steering wheel in order to release the keys from the ignition. However that signal is not always sent because the electrical components do not connect when it is put into park. Driver's only have a temporary solution of shifting it into drive then back into park multiple times while trying to pull the keys out. My car is currently out of warranty due to mileage however it is only 4 years old and should be replaced by a recall, since this is a safety issue as keys may be locked in the vehicle in order for the automobile to be stolen.
Key gets stuck in ignition.intermittently, the key will not turn all the way to the off position to allow removal.turning the key to the "on" position then shifting into gear and back into park sometimes allows the key to then turn off and be removed.the car is stationary and in park.the car doesn't seem to recognize that it is in park.
While putting my vehicle in park the key will not release from the ignition. It takes multiple attempts of going back and forth to get the key to release from the ignition.took it to the dealership and it was diagnosed with "failure to park position, and needed to replace the micro switch plate" with a cost of approximately $800.00 dollars.
The ket gets stuck in the ignition when the vehicleis put in park. The vehicle is stationary.
My car just has had backup camera issue since a month ago.i called the local subaru service but they would charge me for a diagnosis which i don't like the idea to pay it.i learned that subaru recalls other subaru models (non crosstrek) for its backup camera issue.i would like to see my backup camera to be fixed which that is a safety concern.*dtvehicle has not been repaired.consumer stated crosstrek was not included in the recall.
2016 subaru crosstrek 2.0 ltd (cvt) when placing vehicle in park, occasionally, will not allow me to remove ignition key when transmission is placed in park position.safety issue is that i am not able to exit vehicle because if they remains in the car, it will be an easy vehicle to steal. Especially an issue if i am in a parking lot at night or during severe weather conditions.the car dealer and subaru of america feel that it is my financial responsibility even though there are numerous other subaru crosstrek owners that have voiced the same complaint.subaru has issued several service bulletins acknowledging that there is a defect and that the shifter was redesigned for model year 2019.subaru service bulletin 16-112-18r states "the cause is contamination if the park-range switch internal components.
Key is sticking in ignition.was informed that there is a known fix for a known problem that happens but it will cost over $400 to fix.this is a known design flaw with a known service bulletin that makes a change to a piece of plastic in the shifter.
Twice now after letting my car sit parked in my driveway for 3 to 5 days my battery has drained to the point that my car will not start and i would need to jump start my car each time. Both times i jump started my car i would verify that i didn't make an honest mistake of leaving anything on like a dome light etc. And i have not left anything on. It is worth noting that i have the limited version with keyless entry/start the whole eyesight system with an added oem remote start system installed when i bought the car from the dealer.
My key gets stuck in the ignition on the acc position, so i can not leave my car with the key in it because the battery is still on. The vehicle is stationary and in park. I turn the key counter clockwise to turn the car off and remove the key, the key will not go further than the acc position, and no, it is not that i'm not pushing it in enough or the steering wheel lock. I am essentially stuck in my car or at risk of it being stolen. It happens frequently (at least once a day) but not every single time i drive the car. It has made it impossible to drive, and for fear of damaging the transmission or electrical components further i try not to drive it. Subaru is aware of this issue across five other subaru models over five years (2013-2018; legacy, outback, impreza, crosstrek, forester, wrx - until recently their entire lineup!) and issued a service bulletin last year (attached). It is affecting so many other customers, yet they will not fix it. The service bulletin announced a design change to the cvt select lever due to park-range switch internal components. They claim it is "isolated" but a quick search on the internet proves this is not the case.
Transmission in park.key is inignition and turned off. However the engine continues to run.requires several on off attempts to shut engineoff.
I had to have it be jump-started first on 7/20/21 and again on 7/23/21, the battery had been replaced with a new manufacturer's battery in feb. Of 2020. When the battery didn't start on 7/23 there were several warning lights concerning all the electrical safety systems. Aaa came again this time jumped it and it started and i had it towed to the dealership. Since it was towed to the dealership i have learned that this is a documented problem with this car and that there was even a service bulletin put out by subaru about how to deal with the problem, their fix is to replace the battery but that is fixing the symptom but not a cure. I was told that i should report this to your agency.
Key is unable to be removed from ignition after shifting to park. Sometimes requires you to shift in and out of park several times to get the key to release. Seems to be a common complaint and a defective park position sensor.
My ignition key gets stuck sometimes. I believe it is this issue: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/mc-10153178-9999.pdf
Key is unable to be removed from ignition after shifting to park. Sometimes requires you to shift in and out of park several times to get the key to release. Seems to be a common complaint and a defective park position sensor.
2016 subaru crosstrek, 27,500 miles. Unable to remove key from the ignition when vehicle is in park. When this happens the only way to remove key is to put the car in and out of gear and then back to park. Has occurred 1/2 dozen times, most recently today 11/13/2018. I am concerned that i may not be able to get the key out at some point in the future. Obviously, i cannot leave the car unlocked with the key in the ignition! switching gears is not always an instant fix and can take awhile going between drive/reverse/neutral before returning to park and the key releases from the ignition. Have a call into the dealer regarding this issue and service bulletin tsb-16-112-18r
The contact owns a 2016 subaru crosstrek. While making a right turn, the electrical system failed and caused the contact to rear end another vehicle. A police report was not filed and there were no injuries. There were no warning indicators illuminated before or after the failure. The dealer and manufacturer were not notified. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The vin was unknown. The approximate failure mileage was 24,000.
While driving at night around curves at about 15-20 mph the steering wheel kind oflocked, and could not go back straight.had to stop, turn the car off in order to the steering wheel feel normal.it did it a couple of times, also while parking it made like a clicking noise by the front passenger wheel. Had it fix, subaru replace relief valve, electric oil pump. Even though subaru is at fault, i had to pay almost $600 to have this fix because my car had a condition that was not covered by their warranty.it isn't fair.i bought this subaru because of their reliability.it shouldn't have defects.this situation exposed my daughter's life and mine.i hope nobody else goes through this risky situation. Thank you.
When putting the car in park i am unable to get the key out of the ignition.after 2-6x of putting it in and out of park the key will release.
The key mechanism fails to let you remove the key from the switch.it fails to return to the full off position to allow the key removal. I have to turn key off & on anywhere from twice to 20 times to get the key to return all the way to the off position to allow the key removal.sometimes, i start and stop to assist the operation but still can take up to 10 times for the key position to fully return to the off position to allow for the key removal
Not able to remove key from ignition have to take the vehicle out of park put it back in park in park and sometimes repeat then able to remove key from ignition.dealership says it's not covered under the manufacturer's warranty the service advisor nee exactly what the issue was as they just did the repairs to another vehicle the part is transmission plate guide assembly located in the shift console that cost $50 and $350 for labor with a total of $400. My vehicle is now at 40,000 miles.
Experiencing same issues as many others.key will not pull out unless turned back on and change gears; then when turned back off key will pull out.started happening in 2019.again, same as other people, hear clicking when turning left.taking to dealership tomorrow but seems like it will be the axle from what others are experiencing.
Had been driving for about 15 minutes, majority of it had been on the highway, and i exited off the highway. I waited at a stop light and then turned onto a secondary road. The car all of a sudden gave all warning lights with the hybrid system and i lost acceleration in the vehicle. It made it very hard to steer,and when stepping on the gas it barely had any power to accelerate the vehicle. Felt like i lost the main power a d was using only the hybrid battery to power the vehicle. I pulled off on a side street put the car in park and shut the vehicle off. I waited a few minutes and then turned the car back on and everything was fine. This occurred while driving and if it had happened two minutes earlier i would've been on the highway and in real trouble.
Have had several instances of not being able to remove the key from the ignition switch when the vehicle is in park.recently went to dealer for routine maintenance and told them of problem but they were unaware of any complaints.now i see there is a manufacturer communication number 16-112-18r.so apparently this information isn't being emphasized to the dealers.this problem is intermittent and to date i've been able to move shifter lever several times and get key released but i'm sure someday i won't be able to remove the key at all.this started happening several months ago and continues. If i return late in the evening and can't shut off my car what will i do?
The vehicle was losing power and getting close to the point of stalling but never stalled. It would periodically not switch gears as well. Seems like it could have been a faulty brake light switch. Apparently i was told that my vehicle was not covered under the recall put out earlier for this issue. So i had to pay out of pocket.
While driving the car at 70 mph on a freeway it suddenly veered to the right.quick action on my part kept the car from running off the road onto the shoulder.i took the car to the local subaru dealer at the first available appointment.they inspected the car and found the on-board computer showed an indication of a steering angle sensor fault.they kept the car overnight and road tested it but because they could to duplicate the problem they made no repairs to the vehicle.at a minimum, i feel they should have replaced the steering angle sensor and asked them to do so and they refused.i consider this car unsafe to drive.
My battery keep draining all the time since i bought the car i have changed 3 of them. Two of the battery were still okay but i still changed them. Also, all the warning lights on the dashboard keep on and off without the check engine light. I brought the car to the dealer and they fixed the brake switch recall and i also mention the problem to them but they could not find anything wrong with the car. Few days later, i brought the car back to the dealer because the warning lights were on and off on the dashboard. They diagnosed the car and said the car need to replace the valve body transmission which i doubt that my car has problem with the transmission. I also have done some research and a lot of people who own the subaru have that same issue. I personally used to own the subaru brz and that car also has the problem with the battery and the dealer just replaced it for me.
Vehicle turned off/stalled at highway speeds on 2 occasions, 2 months apart. Needed to be towed. Significant safety issue. Both times, dealer stated no issues were found. First time they said it may be the brake light switch which was repaired under recall. Second time they said it might be the fuel pump overheating but said pump looked fine. I do not trust the car and will not drive it.
Key is unable to be removed from ignition after shifting to park. Sometimes requires you to shift in and out of park several times to get the key to release. Seems to be a common complaint and a defective park position sensor.
The contact owned a 2016 subaru crosstrek. The contact stated that vehicle would not start. Colonial subaru (761 e chester st, kingston, ny 12401, (845) 339-3330) advised the contact to go to an independent mechanic to have oil added to the vehicle. The contact called the manufacturer who sent a letter to schedule a service appointment with the dealer. The dealer changed the oil and a 1,000 mile test was to be performed to check the status. After the vehicle had been parked for an extended period of time, it failed to start while it was raining. The vehicle was towed to another unknown dealer for a second opinion and the batter was replaced. While driving at an unknown speed, the vehicle stalled and smoke and flames appeared. A police report was filed. The vehicle was deemed destroyed by the insurance company. The vehicle was towed. There were no injuries. The failure mileage was 5,700.
The contact owns a 2016 subaru crosstrek. The contact stated while driving 65 mph, the high temperature warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to dch subaru of thousand oaks (3725 auto mall dr, thousand oaks, ca 91362) where it was diagnosed with the engine short block needing to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired however, upon retrieving the vehicle, the contact stated that the vehicle failed to accelerate correctly with a loud knocking sound was coming from the engine. The contact took the vehicle back to the same dealer 4 months later to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the valves needed to be adjusted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and referred the contact back to the same dealer for assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 118,000.
Had been driving for about 15 minutes, majority of it had been on the highway, and i exited off the highway. I waited at a stop light and then turned onto a secondary road. The car all of a sudden gave all warning lights with the hybrid system and i lost acceleration in the vehicle. It made it very hard to steer,and when stepping on the gas it barely had any power to accelerate the vehicle. Felt like i lost the main power a d was using only the hybrid battery to power the vehicle. I pulled off on a side street put the car in park and shut the vehicle off. I waited a few minutes and then turned the car back on and everything was fine. This occurred while driving and if it had happened two minutes earlier i would've been on the highway and in real trouble.
While putting my vehicle in park the key will not release from the ignition.it takes multiple attempts of going back and forth to get the key to release from the ignition. From what i have read, numerous people have had this issue and subaru has yet to issue a national recall.i have attached a document that details the problem.
The vehicle was losing power and getting close to the point of stalling but never stalled. It would periodically not switch gears as well. Seems like it could have been a faulty brake light switch. Apparently i was told that my vehicle was not covered under the recall put out earlier for this issue. So i had to pay out of pocket.
The ignition key does not come out after turning off the car. Sometimes i have to start it on and turn it off multiple times until it does come out. Btw, my sister owns the same car, and she has the same problem. I have had this issue for about five months.
Every 4 months i'm changing head lamp lower beam,,
Had been driving for about 15 minutes, majority of it had been on the highway, and i exited off the highway. I waited at a stop light and then turned onto a secondary road. The car all of a sudden gave all warning lights with the hybrid system and i lost acceleration in the vehicle. It made it very hard to steer,and when stepping on the gas it barely had any power to accelerate the vehicle. Felt like i lost the main power a d was using only the hybrid battery to power the vehicle. I pulled off on a side street put the car in park and shut the vehicle off. I waited a few minutes and then turned the car back on and everything was fine. This occurred while driving and if it had happened two minutes earlier i would've been on the highway and in real trouble.
Vehicle turned off/stalled at highway speeds on 2 occasions, 2 months apart. Needed to be towed. Significant safety issue. Both times, dealer stated no issues were found. First time they said it may be the brake light switch which was repaired under recall. Second time they said it might be the fuel pump overheating but said pump looked fine. I do not trust the car and will not drive it.
While driving on the highway with a quarter tank of gas, without warning, my vehicle's engine turned off. As i was in the left lane at the time, i was forced to pull over onto the small shoulder. There were two other occupants in the car and the nearest roadside assistance was an hour away. There were no warning lights or messages prior, and my gas gauge said i had 80 miles until empty. This is the third time this has occurred. I believe this is related to a faulty fuel pump, because my gas tank was not empty. It has not been inspected by the manufacturer, police or insurance.
The contact owns a 2016 subaru crosstrek. While driving 70 mph, the fuel gauge failed to display the proper reading and the vehicle ceased. The contact called dellenbach subaru (located at 3103 s college ave, fort collins, co 8052, (970) 226-3100) and was waiting to schedule a diagnostic appointment. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 24,000.
Vehicle was placed in reverse to back out of driveway. After backing into street the vehicle cane to a complete stop then the manual transmission was shifted into drive. I pressed on the gas pedal and the vehicle stalled for a few seconds then quickly accelerated at a very fast speed. This was on a busy road and the vehicle approaching my rear had to slam on its brakes to avoid a collision. Later in the same evening in a parking lot the same gear change problem happed again. After going from reverse then coming to a complete stop the vehicle was shiftedto the drive position. The gas pedal was pressed then the vehicle came to a near stall. After a long delay the vehicle jolted forward. A person walkingthrough the lot noticed my hesitation and thought i was letting them cross in front of me. My vehicle came within a couple feet of almost striking the pedestrian.
My vehicle (2016 subaru crosstrek, 74k miles) became completely unresponsive during highway speeds twice in one week. I was traveling approx. 80mph on the interstate when the gas pedal stopped working.my vehicle started to decelerate for a few seconds before completely shutting down and i was able to coast to the side of the road. The vehicle restarted almost immediately and i was able to drive the rest of the way home without incident.i called a subaru dealership immediately the next morning and brought it in that same day where they found nothing wrong: no codes,no bulletins, or recalls, and they said it was probably just driver error. The very next day it happened again, the exact same scenario: driving 80mph when my gas pedal became unresponsive, the vehicle decelerated then died where i had to coast off the road.this time the car wouldn't start for about 30min despite multiple attempts (it would crank but not turn over). Then after sitting for about 30 min, it started just fine and i drove to my destination without any trouble.i called and made an appointment with a subaru dealer (a different one) first thing,took it in, and was told once again that nothing was wrong. After doing some internet research i found a forum of crosstrek owners that have the exact same issue, so i know it isn't "driver error" and i know that it isn't isolated. I don't know what part or system would be failing in this particular incident.here is the link to the forum https://www.subaruxvforum.com/threads/shutting-down-while-driving.106065/ i also called subaru of america to try and get them involved, although they really didn't do anything and now i have 2 separate case numbers with them.the first breakdown occured 11/14/2019 and the second incident occurred 11/16/2019.
Transmission slipping dangerously while driving
I was driving on the interstate highway for approximately 110 miles. I slowed down to pay a toll and the vehicle stalled and would not restart. This was the second time this vehicle has stalled during interstate highway driving. The first time was around 17,000 miles and this time 38,000 miles. It took approximately 2 1/2 hours before the vehicle would restart. Had it towed to the dealer.
2016 subaru cross trek. Consumer writes in regards to engine malfunction while driving in manual mode. *ld
Today we had the third wheel bearing replaced on this car. At 43k miles the right rear bearing has been replaced twice and the left rear bearing once.
This is the second incident.the first, i did not report, but was identical in occurrence.while driving in the high speed lane of a major interstate highway @ approx. 70mph, the car suddenly lost acceleration and power, as if to be in neutral.the gear shift was not jarred, my foot was not on the brake, this was not operator error.the car slowly lost speed as pressing accelerator only revved the engine with no results.i immediately pressed the hazards and my indicator to move to the right shoulder of the highway.thankfully arriving there safely although other vehicles on the highway were required to react.upon getting to the shoulder, i shut off the car, and turned it back on.accelerator works as it should and i was luckily leaving the highway at the next exit.the first incident was approximately 4 months ago.i reported it to my dealer who was repairing a brake light recall, the service manager laughed it off as operator error.i assure you it was not.in hindsight, this could be a far more tragic scenario having your car losing power without notice on a highway.all power steering and indicators on the dash were unaffected, only the ability to accelerate.
The duration of time that it takes to go from reverse to drive is unacceptable and dangerous. Every morning i drive my child to daycare and there have been numerous occasions where i feared that we would get rear-ended (which would injure my child) due to the slow response time going from reverse to drive.every morning i have to be 100% sure to time my reversal when backing out and make sure there are no cars anywhere near me so i don't get crashed into. This is dangerous and needs to be fixed before there are any deaths or injuries from this. Also, this is a minor inconvenience but the moonroof/sunroof doesn't open 100% all the way when i click the auto open button/feature...it opens and then stops about 1 inch before being fully open. In other words, if you press the auto open button to open the moonroof, it will stop at 90-95% open then you have to manually press it again to get it fully open another inch to 100%. When i took my crosstrek to the dealer to have them reprogram my telematics for the telematics/computer reprogramming recall i had them take a look at the moonroof and they said that it is "working as designed". Why would a moonroof not fully open 100% by design? it can't be a safety issue, so this just doesn't make any sense and leads me to believe that the dealership was being complacent and lazy and didn't feel like having to adjust it or simply didn't know how.
The left rear wheel bearing is failing for the third [3rd] time at 40k miles.bearing failure appear to be increasing in frequency.
The lag time on the cvt going from reverse to drive is beyond annoying it is dangerous.it takes 1-2 seconds for the car to move and because of this lapse there is a good chance that the car will lurch.for example, if backing out of a parking space and traffic warrants that you pull back into the space it can lead to a potential out of control situation.
Cannot turn off car and remove key after shifting into park. Problem in intermittent. Has happened numerous times.
2016 subaru crosstrek, key becomes stuck in ignition. Must move shift lever out of and into p(ark) position several times before key can be turned to the proper position to remove it. Commonly happens when parking vehicle.
Vehicle was placed in reverse to back out of driveway. After backing into street the vehicle cane to a complete stop then the manual transmission was shifted into drive. I pressed on the gas pedal and the vehicle stalled for a few seconds then quickly accelerated at a very fast speed. This was on a busy road and the vehicle approaching my rear had to slam on its brakes to avoid a collision. Later in the same evening in a parking lot the same gear change problem happed again. After going from reverse then coming to a complete stop the vehicle was shiftedto the drive position. The gas pedal was pressed then the vehicle came to a near stall. After a long delay the vehicle jolted forward. A person walkingthrough the lot noticed my hesitation and thought i was letting them cross in front of me. My vehicle came within a couple feet of almost striking the pedestrian.
Subaru crosstrek 2016car has had power train failure 3 times.the latest caused a rear end collision into my car on 2/28/2020.vehicle lost power while traveling approx 35 mph although the engine remained on and power steering also worked.car was in drive but no power to the wheels. Rear ended by a honda suv while drifting to side of road. Luckily no injuries...about $1500 worth of damage to honda suv. No real damage to the rear of my car.has been to the dealer twice but no trouble codes or diagnostic information.vehicle is under warranty. Seems to be a mystery problem and the dealer has no solution at present.trying to get a response from subaru. Symptoms are the same for all three failures.police report number available upon request.
Not able to remove key from ignition have to take the vehicle out of park put it back in park in park and sometimes repeat then able to remove key from ignition.dealership says it's not covered under the manufacturer's warranty the service advisor nee exactly what the issue was as they just did the repairs to another vehicle the part is transmission plate guide assembly located in the shift console that cost $50 and $350 for labor with a total of $400. My vehicle is now at 40,000 miles.
I put my car into park and i try to turn my car off the key turns half way and stops. I can't get the key out. I try again by turning the car on and off. Sometimes that works. Sometimes putting it into drive and and then park again works. It is becoming a problem more and more frequent. It can take up to 3 minutes of fidgeting to get the key out of the ignition.
While driving at night around curves at about 15-20 mph the steering wheel kind oflocked, and could not go back straight.had to stop, turn the car off in order to the steering wheel feel normal.it did it a couple of times, also while parking it made like a clicking noise by the front passenger wheel. Had it fix, subaru replace relief valve, electric oil pump. Even though subaru is at fault, i had to pay almost $600 to have this fix because my car had a condition that was not covered by their warranty.it isn't fair.i bought this subaru because of their reliability.it shouldn't have defects.this situation exposed my daughter's life and mine.i hope nobody else goes through this risky situation. Thank you.
Tracking number 11217079:this is to add photos showing that seat height adjust leverafter wear protrudes from seat base casting, and catches pants cuff on exiting causingtripping.
Lever to adjust driver seat height has tip at front edge of driver seat. Lever loosens and tip protrudes such that on exiting car it often traps pants cuff and has nearly dumped me onto highway if i am distracted and not concentrating on avoiding this.subaru corrected on later models by moving tip 3 inches back out of cuff radius, which does not help with my 2016. Axle of lever further bends or goes off axis to exacerbate problem. For warranty correction dealer claims 'that is the way it was designed, nothing we can do. They could put in the seat with corrected lever positioning.to note below: problem is on exiting parked car. Problem is position and design of manual driver seat height adjustment lever. That it bends away from originalposition of flush against seat base and the tip protrudes just at the edge where theleft leg drags by on exiting, and the pants cuff gets caught between the lever andthe molded seat base. As the right leg is swinging out in expectation that the leftis heading toward the road, itrip and start to fall toward the road. This has gottenworse as each time it bends the axle of the lever a bit further out, increasing the gap between lever and seat base.
The vehicle was losing power and getting close to the point of stalling but never stalled. It would periodically not switch gears as well. Seems like it could have been a faulty brake light switch. Apparently i was told that my vehicle was not covered under the recall put out earlier for this issue. So i had to pay out of pocket.
Had to have rear brakes replaces on vehicle at 36,000 miles. Front brakes should wear out before rear brakes. Rotors were rusted out. Also the downhill alert light would come on randomly on flat surfaces which causes rear brakes to engage. Because the light is sporadic, dealer would not do anything.
This is a complaint about subaru dealers not responding to a recall in what i would call a timely manner. I cannot tell where on your website to submit this. It is very confusing. It says to submit a complaint of this type, but doesn't tell where.i got a recall for the brake light issue. I consider this a very high priority. The dealer said they could see me in a week. That seems unreasonable considering the nature of the recall. I am very disappointed in subaru, and in your call-in system which seemed to provide not help.
Was standing in the line of other cars on the stop sign for several minutes,brake pedal lost it's height and depressed by itself, causing my foot to slip from brake to drive pedal and subsequently caused a damage to my car and a car in front of mine.i was lucky that there were no pedestrians at the time.
Power steering fails when first starting vehicle.has happened on many occasions.loss iof power steering lasts from a few seconds to 10 to 15 seconds,resolves by itself.heard on several occasions from dealer that they can not reproduce problem.feel it is a serious problem may lead to low speed accident.steering warning light does come on.does generate error codes per dealer.dealer(johnson subaru dubois pa 15801) has attempted repair x 5 w/o resolution.state they have replaced electronic control module,replaced that with a new and improved ecm and state they have replaced the power steering rack.episodes of loss of steering continue.have contacted subaru of america advisingthem of problem.they suggest returning vehicle to dealer even though the problem has not been corrected in the previous 5 visits
Pulling out of my driveway my staring wheelwould not turn so i put it in drive and it still wouldn't turn so i putted in park and turn it off then i started it back up and it worked. I just bought it not even five days ago if subaru knew there was a recall on the cars they shouldn't sold it to anybody i am very upset with the subarucompany day apollo subaru in moon township
Car has 67,000 miles, is three years old, the front left and right axles had to both be replaced. There was a loud clicking when steering the vehicle. On both sides of the car. Any turns whether with speed or slow the axle would make a loud clicking noise. I was not in an accident nor hitting potholes etc. Just making basic turns onto roads and highways.
Total power steering failure at 40,076 miles.deal read code c2532.dealer replaced full steering system; rack, connectors.still did not work.replaced 80 amp fuse on positive terminal.note that steering failure occurred while vehicle was off.major concern if it had happened during operation.
When trying to turn off the crosstrek it would not let the key come out of the ignition. It forces you to take it out of park and put it back into drive then back into park a few times to take the key out. I went to subaru and they said it was a common problem, which they have a fix for. This problem is seen in many of the older model subarus i have seen the same problem in many youtube videos. This is a known problem and has not been addressed by subaru. Subaru dealer told me the problem is a sticky plate cylinder.
Experiencing same issues as many others.key will not pull out unless turned back on and change gears; then when turned back off key will pull out.started happening in 2019.again, same as other people, hear clicking when turning left.taking to dealership tomorrow but seems like it will be the axle from what others are experiencing.
There is a grinding noise coming from one of my wheels . I'm pretty sure it's a bad wheel bearing . Noticed the noise after braking very hard to avoid a collision .have had the suv looked at test driven by an independent mechanic . He believes it is the wheel bearing
No power steering backing up after starting the car. Warning light came on. Turned engine off and back on still no power steering. Parked waited 15 minutes tried again and the steering worked only felt a little loose.
While driving at night around curves at about 15-20 mph the steering wheel kind oflocked, and could not go back straight.had to stop, turn the car off in order to the steering wheel feel normal.it did it a couple of times, also while parking it made like a clicking noise by the front passenger wheel. Had it fix, subaru replace relief valve, electric oil pump. Even though subaru is at fault, i had to pay almost $600 to have this fix because my car had a condition that was not covered by their warranty.it isn't fair.i bought this subaru because of their reliability.it shouldn't have defects.this situation exposed my daughter's life and mine.i hope nobody else goes through this risky situation. Thank you.
Put car in park, shut the ignition off, and i am unable to remove the key from the ignition. This has occurred on several occasions. Would have to turn the vehicle back on, move the shifter from park to drive position, then put back in park and by doing this i am sometimes able to remove the key.
While driving my 2016 subaru on a highway in the rain, the sun roof unexpectedly exploded outward. There wasn't any sign of being hit by debris to cause the glass to shatter. Broken glass flew all over. I took photos of the glass roof that clearly shows the shattered roof broke upward.
Car has 67,000 miles, is three years old, the front left and right axles had to both be replaced. There was a loud clicking when steering the vehicle. On both sides of the car. Any turns whether with speed or slow the axle would make a loud clicking noise. I was not in an accident nor hitting potholes etc. Just making basic turns onto roads and highways.
Twice now my car has gone limp on the freeway. It doesn't shut down but the accelerator stops working and i have to coast off the side of the road and restart it. When i do restart it it's fine. Both times the engine doesn't even rev when i press the gas; it's just unresponsive. No check engine light or anything either. It's always been when i was going around 70 mph and the outside temperature has been hot; probably 88-90 degrees.
There is a grinding noise coming from one of my wheels . I'm pretty sure it's a bad wheel bearing . Noticed the noise after braking very hard to avoid a collision .have had the suv looked at test driven by an independent mechanic . He believes it is the wheel bearing
While driving on the hwy approx 1.5 hrs traveling 75 mph and 60 miles of gas left in tank the vehicle cut off.. I coasted into the emergency lane and shut off veh.no warning lights given or out of fuel. Re-started the vehicle and drove without issues to the next exit, filled the tank and continued another 45 min to home without issue.since, ive only driven short distances to and from work and errands w/o issues.afraid it will happen again and concerned about any future road trips.do to no warning or repair lights and the veh driving w/o issue, i don't know where to begin.i just want to feel safe driving my vehicle further than home
Car is parked and key is stuck in ignition to remove it.
2016 subaru crosstrek driving went to park key got stuck in ignition could not take it out cant understand why so many problems and no recalls
Toxic smell in the car. I noticed it when the salesman was going over how to operate the vehicle and he said he noticed it, also.i figured it was brand new and it would get better, but it did not and i have had it to the dealership at least 6 times.they have tried many things to get rid of the smell.nothing works.now they say nothing is mechanically wrong, so i am stuck with a car that makes me sick.this is notnew car smell, i wish it were.i have been in at least 6 other new subaru's, and none of them smell like this one does. The smell is not getting any better or fading.it makes me lightheaded, gives me headaches, sore throats, blurry vision, post nasal drip,and if in it long enough, nausea.my husband also has these issues and will not ride in the car.
When getting out of the vehicle key is always stuck even if the shifter is on park mode, had to restart the engine and push the shifter with force to release the key.
Ignition key cannot be removed from ignition and car remains on until it can be removed.this happens after placing the car in park. Changing to another key does not change the problem.an internet search and the car dealership note that is a common problem in subaru's.
I made several complaints aboutthe car notstarting, too much oil consumption etc...then on november 11, 2018, at 3.42pm i was driving on highway 87 when car stopped suddenly, smoke came out and flames. It burned down in 15 minutes. Police and fire department came to turn the fire down. The car is total loss. I could have died
My wife was just getting on the freeway when the sunroof exploded and shattered glass all through the car. Nothing hit the car and there was no weather conditions, it was sunny and 68 degrees in boise, id.
Key gets stuck in the ignition. Severity increases with outside air temperature and drive time. Key has been unable to be removed on two occasions. Repeated visits to the dealership has resulted in no long term fixes. This is an on going issue since feb 2019. This results in a car in park, that can not be locked, with a key that can be turned on and used by anyone who opens the door and sits in the drivers seat.
Key gets stuck in ignition after vehicle shut off. Can not be removed until trying to shift gear. Seems like it is not going into park. Started august 8, 2019 and every day since.
My key gets stuck in the ignition on the acc position, so i can not leave my car with the key in it because the battery is still on. The vehicle is stationary and in park. I turn the key counter clockwise to turn the car off and remove the key, the key will not go further than the acc position, and no, it is not that i'm not pushing it in enough or the steering wheel lock. I am essentially stuck in my car or at risk of it being stolen. It happens frequently (at least once a day) but not every single time i drive the car. It has made it impossible to drive, and for fear of damaging the transmission or electrical components further i try not to drive it. Subaru is aware of this issue across five other subaru models over five years (2013-2018; legacy, outback, impreza, crosstrek, forester, wrx - until recently their entire lineup!) and issued a service bulletin last year (attached). It is affecting so many other customers, yet they will not fix it. The service bulletin announced a design change to the cvt select lever due to park-range switch internal components. They claim it is "isolated" but a quick search on the internet proves this is not the case.
While putting my vehicle in park the key will not release from the ignition. It takes multiple attempts of going back and forth to get the key to release from the ignition.took it to the dealership and it was diagnosed with "failure to park position, and needed to replace the micro switch plate" with a cost of approximately $800.00 dollars.
The duration of time that it takes to go from reverse to drive is unacceptable and dangerous. Every morning i drive my child to daycare and there have been numerous occasions where i feared that we would get rear-ended (which would injure my child) due to the slow response time going from reverse to drive.every morning i have to be 100% sure to time my reversal when backing out and make sure there are no cars anywhere near me so i don't get crashed into. This is dangerous and needs to be fixed before there are any deaths or injuries from this. Also, this is a minor inconvenience but the moonroof/sunroof doesn't open 100% all the way when i click the auto open button/feature...it opens and then stops about 1 inch before being fully open. In other words, if you press the auto open button to open the moonroof, it will stop at 90-95% open then you have to manually press it again to get it fully open another inch to 100%. When i took my crosstrek to the dealer to have them reprogram my telematics for the telematics/computer reprogramming recall i had them take a look at the moonroof and they said that it is "working as designed". Why would a moonroof not fully open 100% by design? it can't be a safety issue, so this just doesn't make any sense and leads me to believe that the dealership was being complacent and lazy and didn't feel like having to adjust it or simply didn't know how.
Out of gas with 3 bars showing...twice
Key gets stuck in ignition when vehicle is in park. The key will go to the on position but cannot be pulled out. You must turn the car back on and go into drive and reverse and park again to try and get the key to come out. Sometimes this does not work and you must do so again.
The key is stuck in the ignition after placing the car in park and turning the engine off. The car does not recognize that it is in park so it won't release the key from the ignition. We took the car in for the break light switch recall and it started happening the next week.
Three year old car and horn doesn't work ,,,
A/c compressor has failed and the car has less than 80k miles.
Key gets stuck in ignition when in park and hard to get out. Have to start the vehicle, shift and try again for it to come out.
The radio with siriusxm does not work properly.apparently, sirius updated is software, however; the subaru radios are now not in sync with sirius.my situation is not an isolated situation.specifically, the "list" does not work anymore.it could be dangerous to manually change channels with the knob, as there are over 300 channels
Key stuck in ignition switch while in park and does not want to come out.
April 2018 while driving on the highway the gas pedal suddenly stopped functioning but the engine was still running at idle. Restarting the car fixed the issue but it happened again 10min later. Both instances almost caused an accident. After the second time it happened the car would not start and it had to be towed to a dealership. The dealership said that nothing was wrong with it and returned the vehicle, now one month later the accelerator stopped functioning while driving on the highway almost causing an accident.the vehicle would not start and had to be towed to dealer.
The duration of time that it takes to go from reverse to drive is unacceptable and dangerous. Every morning i drive my child to daycare and there have been numerous occasions where i feared that we would get rear-ended (which would injure my child) due to the slow response time going from reverse to drive.every morning i have to be 100% sure to time my reversal when backing out and make sure there are no cars anywhere near me so i don't get crashed into. This is dangerous and needs to be fixed before there are any deaths or injuries from this. Also, this is a minor inconvenience but the moonroof/sunroof doesn't open 100% all the way when i click the auto open button/feature...it opens and then stops about 1 inch before being fully open. In other words, if you press the auto open button to open the moonroof, it will stop at 90-95% open then you have to manually press it again to get it fully open another inch to 100%. When i took my crosstrek to the dealer to have them reprogram my telematics for the telematics/computer reprogramming recall i had them take a look at the moonroof and they said that it is "working as designed". Why would a moonroof not fully open 100% by design? it can't be a safety issue, so this just doesn't make any sense and leads me to believe that the dealership was being complacent and lazy and didn't feel like having to adjust it or simply didn't know how.
On freeway, car suddenly did not want to accelerate when pushing on the gas. Car then decelerated until i pulled over on the side of the road, almost coming to a complete stop, and then i pushed on gas and it accelerated again.
While stopping at a traffic light and foot removed from the gas pedal, the transmission surged violently.had to apply brakes as car was trying to move forward into a highway. Managed to shift in park and surge eventually stopped.first time i took the car to the dealer,they said nothing wrong.it has happened again while to park.this time i had to shut the engine off.flawed design,feel veryunsafe in this car.
Car intermittently loses the ability to accelerate or maintain speed at a range of speeds from 30mph to 75mph+ in my experience. No response when pushing the gas pedal and engine doesn't respond whatsoever to gas pedal input. It's as if i have removed my foot from the gas and i'm allowing the vehicle to coast. This lasts for a few seconds until normal function resumes. This mostly occurs at on the highway and when accelerating from a stop at a light or stop sign.this is incredibly dangerous and unpredictable, but subaru will do nothing unless they're able to reproduce the issue themselves. It's been in the dealership once already. The issue is intermittent and only happens every few days, so it's hard to make it happen when you want it to. I have a bad video recording of halfway through it happening, but i'm attempting to get a better recording.
I was driving to a town about 12 miles away via the highway.after 10 miles my accelerator no longer functioned and the abs light, the vehicle dynamics control light, and the hill start assist warning light come on.i took the car out of gear so i could coast to a spot to pull off the highway and after pumping the accelerator a few times, the engine started to respond.i put it back in drive and continued on.this happened five times before i finally shut the engine off.after 5 minutes when i restarted, the warning lights were off and didn't come back on when i drove back home 12 miles.the same thing happened the next day.
The contact owns a 2016 subaru crosstrek. The contact stated that while driving at 40 mph, the rear window shattered as the defroster was activated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact also stated that the windshield was replaced recently. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 13,000....updated 03/13/17
Excessive condensation on the front window while the car is parked during cold weather. The car is parked outside, and inside of the drivers window will be covered with moisture. There are no "wet" items in the car, and the air conditioner and defroster are used when the car is in use. It blocks the occupants vision, and the work around is having a towel to dry the window. If the temperature is below freezing, the inside of the window is covered in ice. All other windows in the car do not have condensation. We used the car after it was parked for a week, and here is an image of the passenger side of the front window.this is my daughters car and she has complained about this, but this was the first time i witnessed the condition.
When driving to work this morning on the highway, traveling about 50 mph (approx 10 mile drive, mostly highway) i heard and felt a loud crack on my roof, as if something heavy had hit the roof at a high rate of speed. I immediately looked behind me to see if the cars nearby had been affected, but didn't see anything unusual. When i arrived at work approx 3 minutes later i discovered my sunroof window was shattered, with pieces of glass scattered across the roof of my car and a significant amount of shards collected on the sunroof fabric cover. I assumed it was a rock thrown from above but could not see where it had landed or bounced anywhere else on the roof of my car, especially as there was only the one loud bang and no other reaction from cars in traffic. The police had no record of any complaints about rocks being thrown from the hill above. Upon further investigation i discovered several consumer complaints about subaru sun and moonroofs exploding from the inside due to fluctuations in temperature, as well as several other car manufacturers involved in class action lawsuits for this same issue. It was approx. 30 degrees this morning and i had the defrost/foot heat selection on, set to low. When i returned to my car to investigate i noticed that the glass is bowed out on the right hand side, consistent with an internal explosion. The glass is extremely fragile and crumbles upon touch.
The glass of my sunroof exploded while i was driving on the freeway. I was not close behind any car and i was not going under an overpass. Luckily the inside of the sunroof was closed so the exploding class did not hit me.
When turning clicking noise was coming from wheel area. Car has only 50,000 miles. When i took car in for oil check mechanic checked it out for me. They ended up replacing the passenger cv axle.
There is a grinding noise coming from one of my wheels . I'm pretty sure it's a bad wheel bearing . Noticed the noise after braking very hard to avoid a collision .have had the suv looked at test driven by an independent mechanic . He believes it is the wheel bearing
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