We found the following complaints for OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS (1998)
Read complaints for OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS (1998)
Dt:caller was at a stop sign and when he started to take off. He hit a dip and both front air bags deployed.dealer said there was not recall,but caller said there was a recall on the air bags.manufacturer has not been contacted yet.
The air bags could not deploy because the computer that controls them was out of service s indicated by warning lights on the dash.the first time the fuse block was replaced the car was fully functional except that the controls ot the master brain were not working, hence the safety concerns.the second time it was replaced the car just died, which of course could strand someone.
While driving at 5 mph went to apply the brakes and rear ended another vehicle. The air bags to deployed, causingburns to the consumer.
While sneezeing consumer hit curve, andair bag deployed.vehicle was traveling 10-15 mph. Please provide further information.
Driving at approximatley 35-40 mph hit a vehicle head-on. Upon impact, dual airbags did not deploy which could have caused injuries.
The vehicle was involved in a frontal collision while driving 35 mph.upon impact,the front air bags did not deploy.the driver sustained facial injuries and was transported to the hospital. *sc
Consumer was waiting in a car line whenpassenger's air bag deployedfor unknown reason. Dealernotified.
While driving the vehicle going 20 mph both air bags deployed.driver did not hit anythingfor the air bag to deploy.
On 1/07 had low speed slide on icy road , causing impact with small tree, andresultingin minor cracks in right front bumper cap, and subsequent air bag deployment. Now, have received informationregarding defective airbags which inadvertently deployedin minor crash conditions. Deployment has totaled vehicle with only minor damage.
Have had ignition switch just shut off driving down the road. Exactly as described in gm's recent recall on ignition switches on newer cars. Loses all electrical power and engine shuts off. Has happened numerous times while i have owned it for the last 10 or so years. When it happens i just quickly put it in neutral and restart immediately. This is a 1998 olds cutlass. It is apparent that gm's problem with their ignition switch goes back a lot farther than they care to admit.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
I work for a ignition interlock company. I have seen several vehicles enter the service center with problems with the ignition switch. The key has to be shaken several times in order to get the key to turn to start the vehicle. These ignitions are mounted to the right of the steering column. I have noticed it on almost every vehicle that has the ignition mounted to the right of the steering column not on the column. That is an oldsmobile. I own the 1998 oldmobile cutlass. Was there ever a recall as defect of this ignition and is the dealership responsible for replacement? if i ever had an emergency i would not be able to start my car right away as it at times takes up to five to ten minutes to get the key to turn.
General motors recently recalled the 1997-2005 chevrolet malibu for the ignition switch problem. I own the sister vehicle which is a 1998 oldsmobile cutlass. This vehicle is the identical layout of the chevrolet malibu which has been recalled. I sent a couple of e-mail messages to the gm customer assistance center and just received a phone call explaining to me that at this time they had no intention of doing a recall on the oldsmobile cutlass for the ignition switch. Even though i have not encountered a problem with my ignition switch as of yet, i deem it a safety issue which gm should fix. I do not know if anyone else has complained of similar issues as mine, but i wanted to inform you of my concerns. I do not know if this is the proper forum for this, so if not, please forward my concerns to the proper authorities. Thank you
Battery failed and leaking acid. *mjs
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
Postive battery cable broke while driving. Everything shutdown and driver lost control of vehicle.
The design of the horn is such that a specific section of the steering wheel center has to be pressed. When in an emergency the center portion is hit with the flat hand the horn is not activated. Since in an emergency situation the steering wheel is likely to be turnedthe area to be pressed to actvate the horn has been shifted.
Engine(ignition) quits while car is being driven. All power systems are lost, making steering and braking difficult. Engine restarts when key is turned off and then turned on to restart. This is an electrical or computer problem that seems to be reset when the ignition switch is turned off and then on again. Could be a very dangerous situation.
Ignition failed.
Anti-theft controller disables the ignition periodically for no apparent reason. Requires the driver to wait 15 minutes before the system resets and allows the car to start.
My alarm default alone-theft system light blinks and my auto will not start until it stop blinking which is 10 min long.
Periodically my theft light comes on for no apparent reason, whichprevents me from starting my vehicle until the light stops flashing. This takes 15 min. And is very inconvenient. It happens up to four times or more a month!!
Theft-light came on for no apparent reason.had to wait ten minutes for system to reset before starting car.had key-lock cylinder replaced twice, for a total of over $1400 in repairs.now the light is on seemingly permanently.always wonder if it will start or not.can't get anyone besides a dealer to even look at it.the dealer has enough of my money for now...i have to deal with being inconvenienced regularly by this problem.
Power failure- driving approx. 20mph- car hesitates- travels 3-5mph-need to stop the car to pick up speed. Had it to the dealer 10 times- replacedpcm, fuel regulater/pump and catalytic converter -power loss problem still remains.
Ignition switch lock assembly fails continually, causing ignition switch to lock up.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
Air condioning intermittently goes off. Control panel replaced, but still having problem.
Improperly assembled engine or engine assembled with defective materials. Intake manifold gasket fails allowing water to mix with oil and/or fuel, if left uncorrected this condition will destroy the engine. Symptoms seen as early as 36,000 miles with the vehicle being four years old. Had repaired in my cutlass on dec. 27, 2002 for $606.06 by chuck nash chevy/olds/buick/jeep/eagle, san marcos, tx 41901 miles on the odometer at that time thanks for your help. Good luck. Mark c. Erickson director of recording arts
Vehicle was consuming anti freeze excessively. This was caused by the lower gasket in the engine leaking anti freeze. The anti freeze was going into the engine and mixing with the oil.
Engine assembled incorrectly or assembled using defective materials.gasket failure on the intake manifold allows water to mix with oil and/or fuel, if left uncorrected this will destroy the engine.symptoms seen before the car was driven 40,000 miles, while the car was 4 years old.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
My coolent is leaking.i have had my head gasket replaced twice and it i still have leak.i was told by the gm service department to expect to replace my head gaskit every 20-40,000 miles.there is a defect.also my ac keeps shutting off.my power window are getting stuck when the windows are down.there has never been a accident in this car.i am the first and only owner.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
Nar 05/21/2003*mr water leak in trunk, missing absorber in rear door, suspension noise, 4 new tires replaced, newfront brake pads and rotors, and coolant system leakage.
The mechanic who worked on my car said this was not uncommon for this make & year car. No safety defect mentioned.
Intake gasket is leaking coolant. Vehicle smoked, and had to contantly keep putting coolant in vehicle. Took vehicle to dealer, and dealer indicated that intake gaskets needed to be replaced.
A week after i bought the car used in october 2002 there was noise from front left end of vehicle....there is another noise that comes from the steering when turning the wheels trying to park the car.....i took the car back to the dealer and they said they don't hear anything...also i had the car checked out the same day for the brakes...there was a squealing noise on the front left side and the car wouldn't brake properly...the dealer replaced the left brake pad..i haven't hadany trouble with the brakes since...three weeks later i took the car back to the dealer for the steering noises and they said it would be costly for the labor to find out the problem and that it may not be covered by warranty...they said since it's only minor and is not causing any problems it would probably be better to keep driving it until something went wrong to where they would know where the problem was coming from....a couple months later..in march 2003, the engine coolant light came on continuously and the car was leaking engine coolant....after checking the car out, i had the water pump replaced....it has been a week now since i've had the water pump replaced and the engine coolant light hasn't came back on and the engine coolant hasn't leaked out yet..but now, when i turn the air conditioner on it, it goes out by itself and comes back on a couple minutes later...i haven't had the car checked out for that yetbut this car is adding up to a headache and i haven't had it for 6 months yet..right now it's only at an estimated of 42,500 miles driven on it..... *nlm
A/c turned off on its own. Consumer has come close to having an accident, trying to push buttons to turn it back on. Consumer felt this was unsafe.consumernoticed steam, pulled over ,and it was gushing coolant out. Took to dealer , and they saidwater pump went out, and thermostat failed.consumer feltlucky this didn't cause a fire.also, abs flashed on and off sometimes.
Vehicle overheated, andengine leaked coolant. Heat increased in front on the floor and through the dashboard. Consumer took vehicle to the dealer, who was unable to determine or diagnose the problem.
A/c turned off on its own. Consumer has come close to having an accident, trying to push buttons to turn it back on. Consumer felt this was unsafe.consumernoticed steam, pulled over ,and it was gushing coolant out. Took to dealer , and they saidwater pump went out, and thermostat failed.consumer feltlucky this didn't cause a fire.also, abs flashed on and off sometimes.
Vehicle was losing anti-freeze and oil.took vehicle to dealer, and they replacedgasket. About 25,000 miles laterproblem reoccurred.
Vehicle has been experiencing ongoing problem with oil increasing (one quart)every 1500 miles while driving. Vehicle had been taken to two different dealers, and both have drained the oil/changed the filter, and replaceoil.however, within 1500 miles of driving the oilcontinued to increaseby one quart.it appeared no one could help onthis matter; seeking help from nhtsa in this matter or provide additional information.
While driving engines head gasket failed and as a rwsult the driver had to pull to the side of the road.the dealership has been contacted. Please add any additional information.*nlm
Intake manifold gasket failure on my 1998 olds cutlass resulted in total damage to my engine. After researching this specific problem i have found it to be a very widespread complaint, that should have been corrected at gm's expense. This condition was discovered while the vehicle was under extended service contract by master guard. When the problem was reported the dealership was told by master guard that the repair was not covered, although my platinum coverage specifically said it was.
The intake manifold gasket was replaced three times on the consumers three vehicles.the intake manifold on this vehicle(1998 oldsmobile cutlass) was replaced, then on two other occasions on a 1996 pontiac grand am and a 1998 pontiac grand prix.scc
Intake gasket keeps breaking every 40,000 miles.i have had it replaced twice (once at 40,000 and the second time at 80,000 miles) and have been advised by the dealership that i will need it replaced again at another 40,000 miles.they informed me that it is a defect with oldsmobile. *la
The contact owns a 1998 oldsmobile cutlass.while driving 10 mph or greater the vehicle would shut off without warning when the brake was depressed.the dealer was unable to diagnose the failure.the failure mileage was 130,000 and the current mileage was 160,000.
The head gasket cracked and leaked coolant.two different mechanics suggested that the problem occurs as this particular engine approaches 50k miles, and may defective.scc
When traveling frontmotor mounts rusted out from the cradle, causing poor steering control. Consumer contacted the dealer, dealer noticed a recall for the rear mounts,front motor mounts werenot included.please provide any further details.
Coolant light on dash came on, dealer determined that intake manifold gasket was leaking, and had to be replaced.
Shake, vibration is felt most when driving at speeds around 50-60mph. I was told that new tires would stop the vibration and that a balance and alignment would help in the meantime. The balancing and rotating as well as having the car aligned have not helped at all.i dont think it has anything to do with tires.the oil smell cannot be explained, there are no leaks.
Power failure- driving approx. 20mph- car hesitates- travels 3-5mph-need to stop the car to pick up speed. Had it to the dealer 10 times- replacedpcm, fuel regulater/pump and catalytic converter -power loss problem still remains.
Shake, vibration is felt most when driving at speeds around 50-60mph. I was told that new tires would stop the vibration and that a balance and alignment would help in the meantime. The balancing and rotating as well as having the car aligned have not helped at all.i dont think it has anything to do with tires.the oil smell cannot be explained, there are no leaks.
While driving, abs light will illuminate on dashboard. Dealer has been notified about light;however, has replaced brake sensor and the problem is still occurring.consumer states that gas fumes and smoke fumes were being emitted from engine.*yd
When slowing down or coming to a stop vehicle is not able to accelerate at a correct speed. When slowing down vehicle will shut off. Contacted dealer, and dealer was not willing to do anything.
Consumer was driving 20 mph when engine stalled in middle of highway.vehicle setfor awhile andit restarted.also, air conditioning worked intermittently, andlow pitch noise wascoming from front end.contacted dealer.
While diving 75 mph vehicle stalls. Had repaired, but problem still exists. Dealer can't duplicate theproblem.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
1998 olds cutlasslower intake manifold went bad.o-rings went bad on fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator. 40,000 miles.manifold gasket problem is fairly common on the chevy lumina and malibu.the mechanics at dealer told me and parts mgr. Said to keep my receipts in case of recall.$888. For manifold gasket replacement.*la
Low coolant light kept coming on and had to keep adding coolant.took it to a mechanic, who told me that it was leaking at the intake gasket and that it would have to be replace.mechanic also told me that his son was a mechanic for a gm dealership and that he had seen numerous cutlass for the same problem.
I have a 1998 oldsmobile cutlass with 55,000 miles--the car has a 3.1 liter v6 with a blown intake gasket-- it cost me $550 to have thisfixed. Per 3 mechanics --"all"l 3.1 intake gaskets go out at around 50,00 milesi feel the gm should pay fordefectsthat effects all 3.1si've had 40+ cars in my life and never ever had an intake manifold go out on any of them---------to me that's a mfg defect!!!
The contact owns a 1998 oldsmobile cutlass.the contact stated that the vehicle would hesitate to start and eventually would not start at all.the check engine light illuminated.the local mechanic diagnosed the failure as needing a new intake manifold and made the repair.the check engine light has begun to illuminate and the vehicle continues to experience difficulty starting.the local mechanic diagnosed the vehicle as needing another intake manifold.the vehicle has not been repaired.the vin, powertrain, engine size, and purchase date were unknown.the current mileage is 140,000 and failure mileage was 90,000.updated 07/10/07
My 1999 oldsmobile cutlass has had several heating/cooling problems as well as brake problems. My car consistently needs brakes sooner than most cars should and the car has engine problems and heating and cooling problems that i have spent over $2000.00 to fix. I think the manufacturer is not reporting defects with this car. The car has mechanical problems that a high mileage car should have.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
Air conditioning cuts on and off intermittently. Leather upholstery has prematurely worn.
Air condioning intermittently goes off. Control panel replaced, but still having problem.
A/c turned off on its own. Consumer has come close to having an accident, trying to push buttons to turn it back on. Consumer felt this was unsafe.consumernoticed steam, pulled over ,and it was gushing coolant out. Took to dealer , and they saidwater pump went out, and thermostat failed.consumer feltlucky this didn't cause a fire.also, abs flashed on and off sometimes.
Consumer was driving 20 mph when engine stalled in middle of highway.vehicle setfor awhile andit restarted.also, air conditioning worked intermittently, andlow pitch noise wascoming from front end.contacted dealer.
A/c has a bad control head and it is a known problem to gmc. Causes a/c to cut in and out. Leather seats have worn out prematurely/ driver's seat belt broken.
Air conditioning system failed causing leakage, unable to determine component cause. Mjs
Air conditioner control assembly failed due to short in the system. *mjs
Tape player out of order.yh
Owner manual information not detailed enough for informatiion regarding questionaire. Yh
Consumer stated thatbrake lights come on whenbacking up.but ,brakes do not operate properly.dealership is aware ofproblem.
Moisture would accumulate in the headlights whenever there is heavy dew while going through car wash orwhen raining. Would stay inside headlights for several days. Would have headlights on to dry them out. Taken to dealer & informed tsb on problem, but it isnot asafety issue.
Daytime running lights are supposed to turn on headlights at dark, my car does that unless the temperature goes below 40 degrees, then the lights won't turn on until the interior warms up.the daytime running lights are on, but no headlights, taillights, or side lights.this problem is not unique to my car.i have seen it happen on pontiac grand ams and buicks also.
Moisture collects in headlight. Dealer replaced.
The daytime running lights work fine in warm weather, in cold weather they do not go on.*et
While drivinga loud clicking noise was heard coming from the front of the vehicle.the consumerdrove the vehicle to the dealer for inspection and the mechanic determined that the turn signal unit needed to be replaced.the flasher unit under the dash would click even when the flasher wasn't turned on.when the turn signal was turned off, the clicking would continue under the dash, sometimes at a rapid speed and sometimes at a slower rate).the garage stated that the signal switch seeps power to the flasher. *sc
A fuel leak is causing the fumes to flow intopassenger compartment, causingconsumer to become sleepy while driving.dealer has been contacted.
Intake gasket is leaking coolant. Vehicle smoked, and had to contantly keep putting coolant in vehicle. Took vehicle to dealer, and dealer indicated that intake gaskets needed to be replaced.
1998 olds cutlasslower intake manifold went bad.o-rings went bad on fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator. 40,000 miles.manifold gasket problem is fairly common on the chevy lumina and malibu.the mechanics at dealer told me and parts mgr. Said to keep my receipts in case of recall.$888. For manifold gasket replacement.*la
The fuel injectors in my car has given me problems since 12/14/01, 1/28/02 then again 3/28/02.the mileage between 12/14/01 & 1/28/02 was less than 2,000 miles & the next time was less than 2,000 miles.the first time is cost $179.00 and the second time $175.00.the third time $25.00 & i called the customer service representative & bascially he told me i was using bad gas or poor quality of gas.the only gas i get is from shell, exxon or texaco.the customer service rep. Has not help in the problem in anyway.my mechanic said the injectors need to be replaced & that would cost $1500.00 or more.the merchanic got a service bullectin #99-06-04-005aabout the problems they are having clogged fuel injectors causing the car to run poorly with not enough fuel getting to the engine, & causing the check engine light to come on.he also said he has a lot of these engines with this same problem with the fuel injectors.i just want oldsmobile recall this & have it fixed.
Problem with gas tank when refueling . When the condition occurs which is often , the car will not take more than 1 or 2 gallons of gas. Car was brought back to dealership to check fuel gauge . Dealer stated that this is a common problem caused by equal air pressure inside tank with outside air pressure .this equal pressure is the reason why gas cannot be pumped into car . When you continuously play with gas nozzle eventually you break the air pressure seal. Often times you get gasoline spilled on your hands and clothing as well as on ground. It is very easy for a person to think that their gas gauge is defective and drive on eventually to run out of gas.
1998 olds cutlasslower intake manifold went bad.o-rings went bad on fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator. 40,000 miles.manifold gasket problem is fairly common on the chevy lumina and malibu.the mechanics at dealer told me and parts mgr. Said to keep my receipts in case of recall.$888. For manifold gasket replacement.*la
The contact owns a 1998 oldsmobile cutlass. The contact stated that fuel was leaking from the vehicle. The contact referenced nhtsa campaign number: 07e021000 (fuel system, other). The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 93,500.
Hood flfew up while driving.
Transmission failed and leaked fluid. *mjs
Transmission slips after vehicle has warmed up. After driving the vehicle for approximately 45 min. Or so, if one stops the vehicle shift to park then shift to driveagain the vehicle would not move right away. One can hear the engine accelerate, then the vehicle would move slowly until the transmission finally engages, sometimes in a abruptly manner. This problem has been occurring in my vehicle since the day i got it. I complained to the dealership about it and they said there was nothing wrong with it. I contacted the vehicle manufacturing company (gmc) they suggested to bring the vehicle to a different dealership, which i did and they told me they could not find anything wrong either. On the other hand, the vehicle continues to show the same problem. Ii have contacted other owners of the same model and type of vehicles and they have said that they have experienced the same exact problem(s), in other case the transmission has simply gone bad.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
Both front wheel bearing failed within a two-day period.checked with mechanic who informed us that wheel bearing failure is very common on olds cutlass & chevy malibu for 1997/1998 -- nearly always happening within 4000 miles after warranty expiration.be advised, this was my mother's car and is currently a part of her estate.we were in the process of trying to sell the car when the failures occurred.
Seat belts are too small for consumer.
A/c has a bad control head and it is a known problem to gmc. Causes a/c to cut in and out. Leather seats have worn out prematurely/ driver's seat belt broken.
Front seat belts occasionally lock so that the driver cannot lean forward to see traffi down a side street.
Seat belt retractor failed.yh
Both rear seat belt shoulder buckle latches broke in my car.the plastic piece broke off and their is no way to keep a car seat properly secured without replacing them.consequences would be death to anyone in the car seat if there was a crash.i am going to have to spend over 250 dollars for parts and labor to get this fixed.
Air conditioning cuts on and off intermittently. Leather upholstery has prematurely worn.
A/c has a bad control head and it is a known problem to gmc. Causes a/c to cut in and out. Leather seats have worn out prematurely/ driver's seat belt broken.
Cruise control set at 65 mph suddenly acceleratedto 80 mph on flat ground. When making a left turn the steering wheel locks steering stays stiff and hard to turn most time atlow speeds. Noise and whistle comes from steering. Low pitch rattle, clink, squeak noise coming fromfront of vehicle during low speed. Slow and hard starting,intermittent misfire. Trim over rt. And left rear doors is buckling.discovered black elec. Tape holding body frame at doors together (paint chip of tape) after using the heater when i turn the engine offthere is a bubbling noise which comes from underthe front of the car.
Suspension making a squeaking loud sueaking noise from left fron end. (lower control arms replaced. ** vehicle front end suspension continues to have problems). Steering problem generated noises from left front end which i mistook for suspension failure. (tape kit added to front stabilizer bar).brakes noises during the act of braking. (calibers grabbing pad making a clacking sound-stop squeal added to back of pads ** brakes continue to make noises).left and right hub cap assemply both failed-currently part on order for righ hub cap assembly). ** vehicle front suspension rough and unrealiable causing continues problems with vehicle.
Abs light goes on and off, had to have brakes replaced at 19k miles(warped rotors) and again at 32k (reface rotors, new brake pads), something is very wrong when a less than 3 yr. Old car is on it's third set of brakes. The abs harness had to be replaced too.dealer said brakes not under warrantee, but seems this is not an isolated problem from the comments i read on the internet.
Brakes serviced 6 times.rotors turned three times, replaced twice, pads once. Pulsations returned again.
A week after i bought the car used in october 2002 there was noise from front left end of vehicle....there is another noise that comes from the steering when turning the wheels trying to park the car.....i took the car back to the dealer and they said they don't hear anything...also i had the car checked out the same day for the brakes...there was a squealing noise on the front left side and the car wouldn't brake properly...the dealer replaced the left brake pad..i haven't hadany trouble with the brakes since...three weeks later i took the car back to the dealer for the steering noises and they said it would be costly for the labor to find out the problem and that it may not be covered by warranty...they said since it's only minor and is not causing any problems it would probably be better to keep driving it until something went wrong to where they would know where the problem was coming from....a couple months later..in march 2003, the engine coolant light came on continuously and the car was leaking engine coolant....after checking the car out, i had the water pump replaced....it has been a week now since i've had the water pump replaced and the engine coolant light hasn't came back on and the engine coolant hasn't leaked out yet..but now, when i turn the air conditioner on it, it goes out by itself and comes back on a couple minutes later...i haven't had the car checked out for that yetbut this car is adding up to a headache and i haven't had it for 6 months yet..right now it's only at an estimated of 42,500 miles driven on it..... *nlm
The vehicle experienced extended stopping distance.the brake pedal went all the way to the floor.the front disc/rear drumswere replaced however the brake pedal still felt spongy and continued to go to the floor.
There was a loud squeaking noise which came from the drivers side wheel area when the brakes were applied.the consumer had to purchase new brake shoes and pads every 6-8 months.*nlm
The abs light came on intermittently.this problem occurred before the warranty expired.the consumer was told that the problem could not be diagnosed unless the light was on.the consumer is concerned that the brake will not work when attempting to stop the vehicle.the vehicle was taken back to the dealer who informed the consumer that they would have to pay for the repairs because the vehicle was no longer under warranty. *nlm
98 olds cutlass. Rear brake lines rusted through in vicinity of lr wheel . Resulted in sudden total loss of braking due to loss of all brake fluid. No separate reservoir for front brake fluid. Heard of similar event with same model style chevy malibu. No year known.
Anti lock brake light comes on intermittently.ownermust pull over,shut vehicle completely off,and restart to get it to go off.please describe details.
Ongoing problem with excessive wear of pads and rotors as of 8,000 miles.dealer replaced front pads, and turned the rotors.as of 15,10o miles replaced both front rotors.at 23,300 miles, turned front rotors and replaced front pads; at 34,300 miles replaced front pads and turned rotors, andas of 39,000 miles,problem has reoccurred.dealer notified.
Abs light comes on intermittently. Brake pedal feels normal when braking, and braking distance is normal. Dealer stated module needed to be replaced.
While driving, abs light will illuminate on dashboard. Dealer has been notified about light;however, has replaced brake sensor and the problem is still occurring.consumer states that gas fumes and smoke fumes were being emitted from engine.*yd
A/c turned off on its own. Consumer has come close to having an accident, trying to push buttons to turn it back on. Consumer felt this was unsafe.consumernoticed steam, pulled over ,and it was gushing coolant out. Took to dealer , and they saidwater pump went out, and thermostat failed.consumer feltlucky this didn't cause a fire.also, abs flashed on and off sometimes.
The problem still exists after changing brakes and rotors 3 times.
I had to fix my brakes 3 times under warranty and once while not under. Also, replaced brake calipers.not one time did the dealers check this without pay.
Engine(ignition) quits while car is being driven. All power systems are lost, making steering and braking difficult. Engine restarts when key is turned off and then turned on to restart. This is an electrical or computer problem that seems to be reset when the ignition switch is turned off and then on again. Could be a very dangerous situation.
Abs brake warning light comes on periodically.dealer said it was fixed 5 times.when do i have abs brakes & when do i have regular brakes.how do i proceed in emergency stop?
Extreme pulsation when braking - steering wheel and brake pedal are difficult to control.the dealer has tried replacing the brake pads, turning the rotors, and replacing the rotors and nothing has worked.after each of the 5 times we have this car serviced, the pulsation returns after 3,000 to 4,000 miles.we are entering arbitration proceedings with oldsmobile to demand a buy-back.
When brakes are applied, would be hesitating before grabbing. Had rotors replaced once & then turned 3 times. Rotors go bad & no control. Mechanic can not locate problem.
Due to defective brake rotors which had tobe replaced 6 times, every 21,000 miles.brakes operated poorly,causing extended stopping distance, and may result in a crash.please provide further information.
Anti-lock brakes intermittently fail.dealer can not determine problem.
Four times since buying vehicle hadbrakes and brake rotors replaced.brake pedal felt soft, and the pedalwent all the way down to the floor. Dealership wasaware ofproblem.
Brakes continually make noise, unable to rectify.
Consumer stated thatbrake lights come on whenbacking up.but ,brakes do not operate properly.dealership is aware ofproblem.
Extreme pulsation when braking - steering wheel and brake pedal are difficult to control.the dealer has tried replacing the brake pads, turning the rotors, and replacing the rotors and nothing has worked.after each of the 5 times we have this car serviced, the pulsation returns after 3,000 to 4,000 miles.we are entering arbitration proceedings with oldsmobile to demand a buy-back.
Ongoing problem with excessive wear of pads and rotors as of 8,000 miles.dealer replaced front pads, and turned the rotors.as of 15,10o miles replaced both front rotors.at 23,300 miles, turned front rotors and replaced front pads; at 34,300 miles replaced front pads and turned rotors, andas of 39,000 miles,problem has reoccurred.dealer notified.
Consumer has had problem with vehicle since purchasing it on 12-17-1998.different brake pads & rotors have been changed to the extreme. Vehicle has been makinga grinding noise.also, tires have been changed.dealer said nothing was wrong.
Seven incidents of disc brake failure. Reported to dealer. Fixed several times, but still fails.
I have e-mailed oldsmobile and they have referred me back to burne oldsmobile.it is a government owned vehicle that is used as an enforcement vehicle.the brakes have been replaced two times, the calipers once and now they are failing again.our group has a second oldsmobile cutlass that is experiencing the same problems with brake failure.there are no current recalls.the vehicle is covered until 36,000 miles, however; the more important issue is the constant wearing out of the front brakes as well as the calipers.please advise me of any corrective actions that can be taken.
I had the car into the dealer three times prior to the warranty expiration with complaints about the brakes.my concern was that the brake light (abs) kept coming on and off.finally, the end of august they agreed to replace the rotors if i paid to replace the brake pads.this was done.the next week, i was driving down the highway and the brake light came on again.i immediately picked up the cell phone and called the dealer.i was told that it was probably a computer glitch and to bring it in at my convenience.i scheduled it to go in on friday, three days later.on wednesday night, i was driving, came to a stop sign and had no brakes.a tree stopped me!the dealership and oldsmobile would accept no responsibility, so i paid for the repairs myself.today, after i have had it on the road again for about three months, the abs light came on as soon as i started the car.am i safe in this car????do i feel safe? nohelp.
I had to fix my brakes 3 times under warranty and once while not under. Also, replaced brake calipers.not one time did the dealers check this without pay.
Due to defective brake rotors which had tobe replaced 6 times, every 21,000 miles.brakes operated poorly,causing extended stopping distance, and may result in a crash.please provide further information.
Nar 05/21/2003*mr water leak in trunk, missing absorber in rear door, suspension noise, 4 new tires replaced, newfront brake pads and rotors, and coolant system leakage.
Steering pulsates whenbrake are applied. Rotors have been resurfaced twice, and replaced once.dealer cannot find the cause.
Front brake rotors have warped on four occasions. Brakes pulse or grab when applied. Rotors replaced once and turned four times.
We had the rotors resurfaced at approx. 19500 miles and within 5,000 miles the front end of the car began to shudder violently when the brakes are applied even slightly at higher speeds.
We reported the problem as a loud pop when turning and striking a bump in the road. After three trips to the dealer and being told there was nothing wrong, they finally examined the rack and pinion and found a broken weld on the rack assembly. There is still some unusual noises in the front end but the dealor tells us everything is normal. At 8,000 miles the left front rotor was examined, and found to have deep scores in it while the right one was smooth. After three days in the shop, and there telling me this was normal wear they finally turned the rotors (not replacing them) this eleminated some noise and surging when stopping, but something is still not right. There is a ticking noise like when there is a rock in one of your tires, as well as unexplained poping when crossing rr tracks etc.
Front brake rotors have been turned twice and now again need to be turned.shop states that there is not enough material on the rotors to turn a 3rd time.no oem parts available.searching for info. On a tsb or recall?in addition i sent your office an email concerning this vehicle. Thks.
Rotors were constant problem every 980 to 3000 miles. Had rotors turned down and replaced several times.
When brakes are applied, would be hesitating before grabbing. Had rotors replaced once & then turned 3 times. Rotors go bad & no control. Mechanic can not locate problem.
Took vehicle to have rotors turned over 1 year ago due to being warped. Was informed by mechanic not to have rotors turned again due touse of poor materials contructing the rotors. This would cause rotors to become thin & useless. Currently, every time brakes are applied, it would cause steering wheel to shake.
The brake rotors needed to be resurfaced. Would slow down & brakes vibrated badly. They were also warped. Would fail to catch when needed. Took to dealer & brakes repaired. 8 months later, having same problems. Took to different dealer & informed rotors should be replaced, not resurfaced. Did not replaced due to lackof warranty.
Have had the front rotors resurfaced twice and the rear rotors resurfaced once.car shudders at high speeds when braking.
Four times since buying vehicle hadbrakes and brake rotors replaced.brake pedal felt soft, and the pedalwent all the way down to the floor. Dealership wasaware ofproblem.
Rotors were constant problem every 980 to 3000 miles. Had rotors turned down and replaced several times.
Every 6000-9000 miles rotors needed to be changed, if they were not, vehicle would almost go out of control while trying to stop.
Rotors were constant problem every 980 to 3000 miles. Had rotors turned down and replaced several times.
Rotors had to be resurfaced, continued to have problems.
The problem still exists after changing brakes and rotors 3 times.
Brake booster failed resulting in leakage.
While drivingit was hard forconsumer to turn the steering wheel left/right. Dealership was notified, but did not resolve the problem.
The contact owns a 1998 oldsmobile cutlass.the contact stated that the steering wheel would tighten when making right and left turns.he received a recall letter pertaining to the steering rack and pinion, which stated that the lower pinion bearings in the power rack and pinion assembly were not crimped properly.this is where the retainer tabs were located.the failure could allow the ball bearings to escape.the dealer repaired the vehicle according to nhtsa campaign id number 03v527000 (steering:rack and pinion); however, the contact felt no change in the vehicle.the vehicle was taken back to the dealer a second time for repairs, but the failures still persisted.in addition, the contact heard a loud continuous banging noise coming from the steering column.the failure mileage was 66,051 and current mileage was less than 125,096.
Frame, where steering rack bolts to, rusted out. Steering rack became separated from the frame causing a dangerous steering condition. Frame needs to be replaced at a very high cost.
A week after i bought the car used in october 2002 there was noise from front left end of vehicle....there is another noise that comes from the steering when turning the wheels trying to park the car.....i took the car back to the dealer and they said they don't hear anything...also i had the car checked out the same day for the brakes...there was a squealing noise on the front left side and the car wouldn't brake properly...the dealer replaced the left brake pad..i haven't hadany trouble with the brakes since...three weeks later i took the car back to the dealer for the steering noises and they said it would be costly for the labor to find out the problem and that it may not be covered by warranty...they said since it's only minor and is not causing any problems it would probably be better to keep driving it until something went wrong to where they would know where the problem was coming from....a couple months later..in march 2003, the engine coolant light came on continuously and the car was leaking engine coolant....after checking the car out, i had the water pump replaced....it has been a week now since i've had the water pump replaced and the engine coolant light hasn't came back on and the engine coolant hasn't leaked out yet..but now, when i turn the air conditioner on it, it goes out by itself and comes back on a couple minutes later...i haven't had the car checked out for that yetbut this car is adding up to a headache and i haven't had it for 6 months yet..right now it's only at an estimated of 42,500 miles driven on it..... *nlm
Steering pulsates whenbrake are applied. Rotors have been resurfaced twice, and replaced once.dealer cannot find the cause.
Total failure of steering system.mechanical lock up.steering wheel could not be turned by hand.problem occurred at low speed close to home.the steering rack bracket separated from the frame.gm complaint # 1-399 751 487 march 18,2006.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
Cruise control set at 65 mph suddenly acceleratedto 80 mph on flat ground. When making a left turn the steering wheel locks steering stays stiff and hard to turn most time atlow speeds. Noise and whistle comes from steering. Low pitch rattle, clink, squeak noise coming fromfront of vehicle during low speed. Slow and hard starting,intermittent misfire. Trim over rt. And left rear doors is buckling.discovered black elec. Tape holding body frame at doors together (paint chip of tape) after using the heater when i turn the engine offthere is a bubbling noise which comes from underthe front of the car.
Steering wheel unexpectedly locked.consumer stated steering wheel would not turn to the left. Power steering pump, pulley and pressure hose were replaced.also, noise on front end of vehicle, dealer replaced both lower control arm and performed alignment.*la
When car was parked, and then whenattempting to be driven,it had no power steering. This happens about every 15,000 miles.
Engine(ignition) quits while car is being driven. All power systems are lost, making steering and braking difficult. Engine restarts when key is turned off and then turned on to restart. This is an electrical or computer problem that seems to be reset when the ignition switch is turned off and then on again. Could be a very dangerous situation.
High pressure hose broke causing loss of fluid and loss of control while driving.
Vehicle lost power steering while driving between 25-30 mph. As a result, steering became difficult.the dealership replacedrack and pinion.*mr
Suspension making a squeaking loud sueaking noise from left fron end. (lower control arms replaced. ** vehicle front end suspension continues to have problems). Steering problem generated noises from left front end which i mistook for suspension failure. (tape kit added to front stabilizer bar).brakes noises during the act of braking. (calibers grabbing pad making a clacking sound-stop squeal added to back of pads ** brakes continue to make noises).left and right hub cap assemply both failed-currently part on order for righ hub cap assembly). ** vehicle front suspension rough and unrealiable causing continues problems with vehicle.
Steering feels strange wheel has a tug to it when making turns.. Left turns require more steering effort than right turns also steering wheel squeakswhen turning in either direction. This has been going on even when the car was still under warranty.. Car has just 25,000 mileson it, afraid there is something wrong with the rack and pinion.
After the new lower bearings were replaced the gear assembly failed. The dealership was refusing to replace the gear assembly as indicated in the steering gear bearing recall 03v527000.
Dealership is refusing to comply withsteering bearing recall 03v527000. The gear assembly is leaking, but the dealership is refusing to replace it under the recall.
Recall 03v527000 subject:steering gear bearings. Consumer contacted the dealer, who informedconsumer that the machine installing the new parts broke,and recall repairscould notbe done until the machine was fixed.
We reported the problem as a loud pop when turning and striking a bump in the road. After three trips to the dealer and being told there was nothing wrong, they finally examined the rack and pinion and found a broken weld on the rack assembly. There is still some unusual noises in the front end but the dealor tells us everything is normal. At 8,000 miles the left front rotor was examined, and found to have deep scores in it while the right one was smooth. After three days in the shop, and there telling me this was normal wear they finally turned the rotors (not replacing them) this eleminated some noise and surging when stopping, but something is still not right. There is a ticking noise like when there is a rock in one of your tires, as well as unexplained poping when crossing rr tracks etc.
Recall on 1998 olds cutlass-i was not notified of such recall on steering:rack and pinion.i am paying out of pocket for this repair and am getting a run around from oldsmobile.my car is being serviced at a non-gm facility.oldsmobile is very inconsistant and unreliable, especially when it comes to safety and customer service.i will never buy a gm vehicle, and recommend that my friends/family not buy one either.gm is not customer oriented and this is very dissappointing.
While driving and if the sunvisor is needed, when adjusting it to any position the holding clip breakes, causing it to fall out of place. Dealer has not been contacted.
I submitted my complaint to gm and to the attorney general of michigan.my complaint stems from problems i have encountered over the last 3-4 years with my 1998 oldsmobile cutlass related to rust on and around the gas filler pipe and door.i have a continuous warning light (check engine) on my dashboard that according to the owner's manual may impact the emission controls in my engine.this warning light appears to be due to the poor fit of the gas cap on the filler pipe due to rust.cap replacement has not helped.there is also a significant amount of rust that has developed surrounding the gas filler pipe door on the right rear body panel.i spoke with a body shop and they mentioned they had seen several vehicles of this type with similar damage and was due to the insulation collecting moisture under the body panel and rusting through from the back side.i have personally seen two other same make/model vehicles with the same exact issues.gm responded to my complaint stating the rust-through protection on my vehicle had expired and there are no currently no recalls issued.my contention is this issue is not isolated to my vehicle regardless of mileage and age and presents not only unsightly damage and cost to repair, but a safety issue surrounding the gas filler pipe.
Front bumper failed.
Trim over right rear and left rear door is buckling, cracked and loose.
Nar 05/21/2003*mr water leak in trunk, missing absorber in rear door, suspension noise, 4 new tires replaced, newfront brake pads and rotors, and coolant system leakage.
Trunk lid will not stay open due to failure of the torque rods.
Nar 05/21/2003*mr water leak in trunk, missing absorber in rear door, suspension noise, 4 new tires replaced, newfront brake pads and rotors, and coolant system leakage.
Frame, where steering rack bolts to, rusted out. Steering rack became separated from the frame causing a dangerous steering condition. Frame needs to be replaced at a very high cost.
Consumer was traveling about 35mph on highway and didn't here a noise. Without prior warning left driver's sidea framecollapsed. Wheel was still intack.dealership was notified.
Total failure of steering system.mechanical lock up.steering wheel could not be turned by hand.problem occurred at low speed close to home.the steering rack bracket separated from the frame.gm complaint # 1-399 751 487 march 18,2006.
While driving consumer would hear a loud rattling noise coming from the front end.dealership informed the consumer that the problem was due to the suspension. The mechanic hadnot yetresolved the problem.*mr
Vehicle wonders off inopposite direction. Dealership is aware ofproblem. Mechanic at dealershipinspected vehicle.
Nar 05/21/2003*mr water leak in trunk, missing absorber in rear door, suspension noise, 4 new tires replaced, newfront brake pads and rotors, and coolant system leakage.
The vehicle veers to the left and the right . The dealer has inspected the vehicle a number of times and the problem still exists.the dealer will inspect the vehicle. Manufacturer has been notified.
While driving vehicle vibrates.
Shake, vibration is felt most when driving at speeds around 50-60mph. I was told that new tires would stop the vibration and that a balance and alignment would help in the meantime. The balancing and rotating as well as having the car aligned have not helped at all.i dont think it has anything to do with tires.the oil smell cannot be explained, there are no leaks.
We reported the problem as a loud pop when turning and striking a bump in the road. After three trips to the dealer and being told there was nothing wrong, they finally examined the rack and pinion and found a broken weld on the rack assembly. There is still some unusual noises in the front end but the dealor tells us everything is normal. At 8,000 miles the left front rotor was examined, and found to have deep scores in it while the right one was smooth. After three days in the shop, and there telling me this was normal wear they finally turned the rotors (not replacing them) this eleminated some noise and surging when stopping, but something is still not right. There is a ticking noise like when there is a rock in one of your tires, as well as unexplained poping when crossing rr tracks etc.
When braking, the front end and steering wheel vibrate, dealer has claimed to fix the problem in the front end, but problem still exists.
Consumer has had problem with vehicle since purchasing it on 12-17-1998.different brake pads & rotors have been changed to the extreme. Vehicle has been makinga grinding noise.also, tires have been changed.dealer said nothing was wrong.
Shake, vibration is felt most when driving at speeds around 50-60mph. I was told that new tires would stop the vibration and that a balance and alignment would help in the meantime. The balancing and rotating as well as having the car aligned have not helped at all.i dont think it has anything to do with tires.the oil smell cannot be explained, there are no leaks.
Consumer was driving 20 mph when engine stalled in middle of highway.vehicle setfor awhile andit restarted.also, air conditioning worked intermittently, andlow pitch noise wascoming from front end.contacted dealer.
Suspension on left front makes rattleing noise.
Noise in the front wheel area while going over bumps in the road due to failure of the control arms.
Suspension making a squeaking loud sueaking noise from left fron end. (lower control arms replaced. ** vehicle front end suspension continues to have problems). Steering problem generated noises from left front end which i mistook for suspension failure. (tape kit added to front stabilizer bar).brakes noises during the act of braking. (calibers grabbing pad making a clacking sound-stop squeal added to back of pads ** brakes continue to make noises).left and right hub cap assemply both failed-currently part on order for righ hub cap assembly). ** vehicle front suspension rough and unrealiable causing continues problems with vehicle.
Steering wheel unexpectedly locked.consumer stated steering wheel would not turn to the left. Power steering pump, pulley and pressure hose were replaced.also, noise on front end of vehicle, dealer replaced both lower control arm and performed alignment.*la
Noise in the front wheel area while going over bumps in the road due to failure of the control arms.
Vehicle has around 98000 miles "light" went out on a monday morning to go to work and found the diver side front wheel was all the way up into the wheel hub. After jacking the car up i was able to see that the spring had snapped. Immediately i had it towed to a gm dealer for repair.contacted gm and dealer, both said this was due to normal wear and tear??? my concern was that if this had happened on the freeway the car would have lost control and more then likely caused a serious crash. I have the old part and was told the spring on the passenger side was in good condition and did not need replaced. But i question that.
Intermittently there is vibration and grinding sound in the front end of the vehicle.dealer examined the vehicle and found that the wheel bearings wore out.consumer claimed that this vehicle had had four wheel bearingssince 1999.
While drivingnoise was heard coming from driver's sidewheel. Consumertookvehicle to the dealer for analysis, and mechanic determined that the front wheel bearing neededto be replaced due to worn out parts.
No summary listed for above vehicle.
The tires are wearing unevenly on the sides, splitting in some spots and in some spots you can see the steel (firestone affinity touring t2 p215/60r15 93t m+s).nlm
Nar 05/21/2003*mr water leak in trunk, missing absorber in rear door, suspension noise, 4 new tires replaced, newfront brake pads and rotors, and coolant system leakage.
Tire blowout similar to the ones i heard in the news -- outermost row of treads ripped off -- i had 1" of rubber holding the inside of the tire to the outside.i checked the week before -- tires were properly inflated.( dot number: tire size: 21560r15 )
This was second blowout of the firestone tires. One at driver side rear, this one at passenger side front.sidewall torn away from tread .firestone refuses to acknowledge a problem.2 blowouts on this car seem excessive for the use it has had. (tiresize: 15260r15)( dot number: tire size: 15260r15 )
Firestone affinity tires (p215 60 r15) experienced tread separation.
During visit to garage on august 11, 2000, for tire rotation the mechanic noticed severe cracking between treads on all four tires to the point that they were unsafe to be driven.these tires still have 50% of the tread left.in a question above i was unable to select all four tires -- i was only able to select front or rear and right or left.please note that all four tires were cracked.( dot number: tire size: p215/60r15 )
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
Cruise control set at 65 mph suddenly acceleratedto 80 mph on flat ground. When making a left turn the steering wheel locks steering stays stiff and hard to turn most time atlow speeds. Noise and whistle comes from steering. Low pitch rattle, clink, squeak noise coming fromfront of vehicle during low speed. Slow and hard starting,intermittent misfire. Trim over rt. And left rear doors is buckling.discovered black elec. Tape holding body frame at doors together (paint chip of tape) after using the heater when i turn the engine offthere is a bubbling noise which comes from underthe front of the car.
While drivingabout 55 mph consumerstopped to put money into a toll, the accelerator pedal went alway to the floor, and vehicle lost power.had to pull to the side and wait for a few minutes then the vehicle started working again.dealer and manufacturer were contacted.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
While starting vehicle engine is releasing strong fumes throughtvents of vehicle.dealer has been notified;however, has not been able to find the cause.
When start usingdefroster forwindows some type of fiber is blowing fromvents, causing consumer to openwindows in cold inorder nottoinhale vapor.
Driver side mirror vibrates noticeably at all speeds. Dealer adjusted the mirror once & replace the mirror assembly once. The mirror still vibrates.
Consumer brought vehicle in for inoperative right side windshield wiper, dealership replaced wiper blade assemblies and adjusted left and right wiper arms, consumer received recall notice, 01014s, after repairs were performed, but dealership stated that repair was not covered by recall, consumer is requesting reimbursement.
I currently have the following problems with my 1998 olds cutlass gl. My power steering is stiff and makes a "wailing" noise. My coolent system has a leak. My heat and air have completey stopped working. I have had problems (in the past that have been repaired_ with my power window locking up (drivers side). The sound system shorted out. The cd player quit working. I have replaced my wiper blades several times and they still do not clear the windshield completely. One time when my teens were using my car, they were on the interstate and the car went completely dead...not only were they terrified, it was a very dangerous situation for them to be in.
I was driving on route 9, a major highway here in the city of poughkeepsie and i had mywindshieldwipers on because it was raining. Suddenly the passenger side wiper arm stopped moving, causing the driver side wiper to move across it forming an 'x' across the windshield. The wiper systemstalled and i couldn't see through the windshield again. Luckily there wasn't too much traffic at the time and i was lucky enough to pull out of the road without crashing into anything. I had seen earlier in this website that there is or supposed to be a recall on the 98 cutlasses for their defective wiper systems and i've been waiting for a recall note but i haven't recieved one yet. My question is, is my dealer required to perform the repair/replacement for free or am i required to pay for the service?
Consumer brought vehicle in for inoperative right side windshield wiper, dealership replaced wiper blade assemblies and adjusted left and right wiper arms, consumer received recall notice, 01014s, after repairs were performed, but dealership stated that repair was not covered by recall, consumer is requesting reimbursement.
While driving at 30 mph on a down pour, the windshield wipers stopped working.the wipers began to work out of synch and ended crossed up on the windshield.had to replace the wiper transmission.no recall notice was received. *la
Recall campaign#01v068000 windshield wiper linkage breakage will not cover my breakage because i am in a southern state, my vin is not on their racall list.
1) the failure occurred under normal use of wipers in heavy rain.2) during normal use, the passenger side wiper arm appeared to become dislodged and began moving erratically.after inspection of the wiper assembly it was discovered that the plastic housing that holds the wiper arm to the wiper motor was cracked and broken away from the linkage to the wiper motor.the consequences of this failure is that neither wiper arm operates and this causes hazardous driving conditions by reducing visibility during rain or frost.3) after researching this apparent defect in the manufacturers original part, i discovered an open recall is already in effect for this particular year, make, and model (nhtsa campaign id# 01v068000).the description under this recall is identical to the problem i encountered and is for the same vehicle.i contacted the manufacturer, gm-oldsmobile, and the open recall was verified, but i was told my particular vin# was not on their list.i was told that if gm happens to add other vehicles from the same year, make, and model to the list then i would be notified, but no repairs would be offered.
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