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We found the following complaints for MAZDA MAZDA6 (2003)

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The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact recieved notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v382000 (air bags) however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure.

While driving 55 mph the vehicle was involved in a side impact collision with an semi- tractor trailer. As a result the vehicle flipped twice landing in a ditch. None of the airbags deployed. No injuries reported. Please provide any additional information.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign numbers: 15v345000 (air bags) and 15v382000 (air bags); however, the parts needed were not available. The dealer did not give a specific date for when the parts would become available. The manufacturer was contacted and could not provide an estimated date for when the vehicle would receive the recall repair. The contact was not experiencing a failure.

While drivingat 45mph consumer's vehicle was hit from behind, causing it to rear end another vehicle. Upon impact,both frontal air bags did not deploy.driver sustained minor injuries. Prior to accident, left front tire kept loosing air.dealer re-beaded it but didn't found anything wrong with the tire.dealer told consumer to come back if tires still losses air. *la

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact stated that nhtsa campaign number: 15v34500 (air bags) exceeded a reasonable amount of time for repair. The dealer stated that that the partneeded to revise the defect had not been produced. The contact's vin was associated with the recall as of june 19, 2015. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The vin was invalid. The contact had not experienced a failure.updated 1/19/16 ln

I was in a car accident and out of 6 air bags all of them failed to come out.because of there failure i received various injuries that are keeping me from work.

Takata recall. The contact owns a 2003 mazda mazda6. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v382000 (air bags) however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer had exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure.updated 03/10/16*ljthe consumer stated the dealer replaced the air bag on 02/12/16

Takata recall. The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. While driving 40 mph, the air bag warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The vin was included in nhtsa campaign numbers: 15v345000 (air bags) and 15v382000 (air bags); however, the parts needed to repair the vehicle were unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 190,000. Vin tool confirms parts not available and parts distribution disconnect, respectively.

I hit a deer at 45 miles an hour then hit the hit totalling the car,the airbag did not come out, the seat belt did not lock causing me to be slammed into the steeling wheel, now i suffer great pain, can't move my neck, can't lay down bc of such bad headache i throw up, i sleep sitting up, something in the car like metal fragment hit me in the left eye, now i can barely see out of my left eye. And must continue medical treatment. And someone is going to pay for my medical treatment and pain and suffering, bc that seat belt not locking caused my injuries, my insurance company totalled my car out bc of the severe damage to it.

Takata recalli receved the final repair notice, and i have contact you guys i have a reference number of 896159. I lived in hawaii, i took the the car to cutter mazda in waipahu hawaii in october, they told me that they will contact me when the part is available. I called back last week and they were suppose to return my call to see when the part was going to be in. No one has contact me as of yet. What else can i do if the dealership is not trying to repair the recalls.:

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact received a notification of nhtsa campaign number: 14v773000 (air bags) however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

Takata recall, former owner

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact stated that the recall notice for nhtsa campaign number: 15v382000 (air bags) was received in july of 2015. The contact was informed that the parts needed to repair the vehicle were still not available and no estimated time for receiving the parts could be given. The manufacturer had not been notified of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure.

Mazda is not able to repair nhtsa7914j and 15v-382 for 4 month4250 stevens creek boulevard san jose (408) 837-4061

This car was destroyed in an accident, and as such can no longer be repaired.

After being run off the highway by a suv the air bags failed to deploy during a head on collision into the woods going 65mph down a 50ft embankment. Whole front end of the car, and the drive side of the car was destroyed, causing the engine to come up resulting in the steering wheel and console to come up.

On 01/18/2019i took vehicle i purchased, to mock ford in grant's pass oregon for takara airbag recall.this is when i became aware of safety issue that vehicles aur bags had been cut out and removed. The service guy at mock fordexplainedand gave estimate which was greater than what cars value was.the seller of car aaron ronson never disclosed any issues. Only that he bought from a friend that buys and fixes cars. His friend worked at a wrecking yard.my safety concern as well as insurance coverage is have been b.ceffected. My complaint is no found records of vehicleaccident. And no branding of title it is clear. No evidence of airbad deployment.i have been refused copies if previous owner to investigated knowledge prior to my purcgase.

Takata recall. The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v382000 (air bags) and the contact waited for months to receive the second notice indicating that the parts were available. The manufacturer had not sent the parts to the dealer in order for the recall remedy to be performed. The manufacturer was contacted and was unable to provide a specific time frame that the parts would become available. The vin was not available. The contact had not experienced a failure.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda mazda6. The contact received a notification of nhtsa campaign number: 15v382000 (air bags) however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda6. The contact received a recall notification for nhtsa campaign number: 14v362000 (air bags); however, the part needed to repair the vehicle was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was notified of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure.updated 11/20/14*lj updated 5/4/2015

I asked mazda to fix the two recall issues and that have not called me nor set up an appointment for this repair.

In 2018, the car was part of a trade in for a certified used car at my dealership.the car had over 350,000 miles and could no longer run.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 14v773000 (air bags), 15v345000 (air bags), and 15v382000 (air bags); however, the parts needed for the repairs were not available. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repairs. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign numbers: 14v362000 (air bags), 15v345000 (air bags), and 15v382000 (air bags); however, the parts were unavailable to perform the repairs. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall remedy. The manufacturer was not notified. The contact had not experienced a failure.

Takata recall. The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign numbers: 15v382000 (air bags) and 16v354000 (air bags). The part was not available within a reasonable time frame to schedule the recall repair. The contact called two dealers, but there was no response after several calls. The contact was unable to determine when the vehicle would be repaired. The manufacturer could not provide an estimated date for when the contact's vehicle would receive the recall repair. The contact was not experiencing a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.

While driving the driver lost control of the vehicle and hit a tree.the front, side, and rear air bags did not deploy.the driver sustained a broken arm and the vehicle was declared a total lost.please provide any additional information.

Rattles inside passengers compartment with 2003 mazda 6 sedan.rattles come from front passengers side close to the passenger airbag.dealer did not know where the origin of the rattles, it is becoming louder each day.worry it may cause failure of airbag during an accident.incident date was the original date when we noticed the rattles.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 14v773000 (air bags) however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure.

Dt*:the contact stated after fainting, the vehicle struck a stop sign at 10 mph.the impact occurred in the center of the hood.the air bags didn't deploy until the consumer opened the driver's side door to exit the vehicle.the vehicle was towed to the dealership and was deemed totaled by the insurance company.there has been no inspection of the air bag problem.updated 6/16/2006 -

My daughter was involved in a serious rollover accident last thursday and the car's airbags did not deploy.

The engine light and transmission light indicated a problem to me, as well as the car jerking upon acceleration.after taking the car to the dealer for service it was determined that knock sensor had malfunctioned.since the first visit to the dealership for service regarding this problem, it has happened 5 times.i have contacted my dealer and the manufacturer and am still dealing with this issue.my dealer has made no attempt to rectify the situation other than replacing the engine sensor over and over.the car was out of commision for over a week each time.i have gone to the dealer asking for their help in contacting mazda about a new engine and or car and they are completly uncooperative.

Manufacturing problems with 2003 mazda 6 / auto alliance international facility. *mr there was rust on the door sashes of all four.the consumer's vehicle may be one of 46k assembled at the aai facility throughout july of 2003 that was potentially affected.the cd player/changer had become defective, there was a defective fuse access cover, there was a rattling in interior driver and passenger door panel while driving or when listening to music, and there was a rotten egg smell that had come from the exhaust which entered the cabin. *sc

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6.while driving approximately 35 mph, the vehicle vibrated and hesitated without warning.the contact pulled over to the side of the road and the vehicle was towed to an authorized dealer.the technician stated that the failure was related to the engine, which was replaced.in addition, the vehicle would shift roughly from first to second gear.he experienced failure with the exterior lights and the window operating mechanisms.the vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and a diagnostic test was performed.the technician stated that the aftermarket electronic components were possibly the causes of the failure.the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who replaced the following components:alternator, battery, exterior lights, and four window operating mechanisms.also, the computer module, transmission, and air conditioner modules were replaced.the failure mileage was 85,000 and current mileage was 94,000.

On several models of mazda 6's mazda has issued a tsb for the problem which is a defective throttle position sensor. I have read thousands of complaints by consumers. Mazda has made a new part yet not recalled the old part. When this part fails you lose all acceleration power to the vehicle. The way to reset this is to turn off the motor and turn it right back on.i was driving on a two-lane highway crossed over the broken double yellow line to pass another vehicle when this defective part failed and i lost all acceleration. Thankfully, i had just enough time to be able to allow the same car i was passing to pass me and i pulled off the roadway. The car worked fine for the rest of that trip it occurred again on the freeway in the fast lane. I contacted mazda corporate customer care they advised me that they were aware of the issue but had not issued a recall at this time.

My vehicle has been having an issue with the throttle position sensor. As well as the pcm, usually connected as noted by my mechanic. 3 things can come from this he said. I could be having an issue with the gas pedal, the computer, or i need a new throttle body. From my understanding so far the issue causes the computer to incorrectly read, causing the check engine light as well as a few others to abruptly turn on while car is in full motion, for me this is typically at 55 mph. The car then looses the ability to properly accelerate, or decelerate. I have to quickly pull my car to the shoulder, put in park while the car seems to be lurching forward, and turn off the engine. If i do not do this quick enough the engine begins to rev high and low continuously. My rpm gauge bounces around as it is doing so. After leaving the car off for a few moments i can then restart. My check engine light will now stay on for about 50 miles and turn itself off. Once the light has gone off usually within 15 miles my car will do it all over again.after calling my dealer, because i still owe 2 more years of payment on the car, i am told that they can fix it if i have my warranty intact. Unfortunately it has run out as of july. The part alone from the dealership is $700. Why is there no recall on this issue if so many people are having it?

I am experiencing problems on cold starts.the car will idle up to 2000 rpm, then idle all the way down and die.all of this will take place in about 5-6 seconds.the dealer told me that it was an aftermarket handsfree kit i had added to the car.but i purchased the car in january and had the kit added in late february, and had no problems up until a couple weeks ago (late may).the dealer unhooked the handsfree kit, because they said that the aftermarket product was the problem.after having the kit unhooked for about 2 weeks now, i still experience the problem.the kit is not even hooked into the cars wiring anywhere, it is wired onto the batter directly.the phone is not even in the kit while the car is starting, and the kit pulls no power unless the phone is in it.

The clutch has begun to fail.the dealer indicated that it would be five months before one became available.the clutch, starter, cd changer, and panel cover were defective.there was rust on the door sashes. There was a smell from the exhaust that entered the vehicle, there were vibrations and rattles in the door, which had been adjusted.there were problems with the master cylinder and the leaking fuel sender unit in the gas tank.the starter would grind and the clutch shuddered. *sc

The contact owns a 2003 mazda mazda6. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 35 mph, the vehicle suddenly shut off. The failure had occurred on multiple occasions. The cause of the failure was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 167,000.

Driving at approximately 60 mph on a state highway, the vehicle suddenly went into limp mode.from the sudden jump into limp mode, a multi-car accident was narrowly avoided.this is definitely a safety concern.thankful nobody was hurt.

I purchased a 2003 mazda6 on 4/18/2003, at of today it has 3,800 miles.after driving about 10 miles i stopped to order food from a drive thru window. I was told that it would be 10 mins for my order to be ready, so i pulled over to a stall and waited for 15 mins, with the car still on(no ac windows down). While placing my order i heard the fan turn on i knew it was on because it was making a very loud noise (not like normal). It stay on while i was parked waiting for my order andon the drive home 10 min. It continued to stay on 90 sec after car was turned off. I went to check on the internet to see if there was a problem with anyone else and from ca to fa and even in can mazda6 owners have had to replace relay control module. I called dealer they said that this was normal, but i could bring it in to check. After car was inspected i was told that the relay control module needed to be replaced.*la

Bought a 2003 mazda 6 last year, my tachometer kept going crazy and the car would die out. I took it to good year, 3 codes came up. They changed the cam shaft sensor and the egr valve. That didn't fix the problem, good year took the parts out, put mine back in and told me to take it to a mazda dealership. I took it to mazda, they told me i had to change my pcm because it was shorting out, and my egr valve and that should take care of the problem. They quoted me 2k dollars for everything. I asked them how much they were charging for the parts, they told me 1100 for the pcm and 200 for the egr, the rest was labor. As the service advisor quoted me prices, i told her i can buy a pcm online for 145. She said, yes, you can do that, but we won't warranty the job because it's not our part. I told them are you sure that will take care of the problem? they said yes. I told them okay fine! constantly calling the dealership for 2 weeks asking when i was going to get my car back, they gave me a loaner. I had that for a week, so they had my car a total of 3 weeks. Finally i called again, i asked them what's going on with my car. They told me, i need a new engine. I was like what? what happened to 2k will take care of the problem? they said no, there's too much sludge in the engine, you need a new one. Upset, i'm already in for 2k and now they want me to spend another 5k for a new engine. Mind you, i was already hesitant because of the price of the pcm. Any way, service advisor tells me, i can buy a new/used engine online for 500 and have them change it. I told them that was the whole reason, i didn't buy the pcm online!i was told you wouldn't warranty it, now you want me to buy one online? i went to the dealership, picked up my car, still the same problem. I'm not the only one,see link ... Https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpkzphe4sbi orwww.youtube.com/watch?v=n6foaybw_5k.

My car has had all of it's routine maintenance done.at 30k i had to replace the transmission at 20 i had to replace the alternator.at 60k i have had to replace the transmission again!at 60k i had to replace a transaxle something or another .now at 66kit is doing all of the same things that it was doing before the transmissions went out, and it's because "i need a new air filter, spark plugs, and fuel filter"the car jerks very hard when slowing down on the freeway the rpm race, like it won't gear down.when i put it in park it's as if i am pressing the gas pedal down and revving the engine. But the car is in park, and there is no pressure on the gas pedal what so ever!i hate this car, and recommend no one to buy one!i will be voicing my opinion of the car in the car windows, and telling everyone i know about the poor quality of this car.you would think that paying 27k for a vehicle that it would last!

Have a mazda 6 that continuously has the check engine light come on.had an incident where the car was failing to accelerate and waited for tow truck.that was the first time i took the car in for repair.waited 3 weeks before i could get my car back and when i got it back, it happened again 3 more times, and took it in for servicing all those times.i don't want to continue to make a trip to the dealer every month like i have been doing.

Car does not have ignition lock system.after stopping car, turning off and removing key, car rolled backward while still in "drive" position causing damage to driver side back door.son was within inches of being slammed into concrete pole the car rolled into. *la

Check engine light came on. Car didn't have know pick up.took carto the dealer,they never told me what was wrong.

The car got stuck in a mixture of mud and snow.during the effort to get the car unstuck there was a spark inside of the car on the drivers side.the occupants of the car exited the car and found that there were flames shooting out from underneath the front of the vehicle.they were unable to stop the fire at that point and the car has been burned to nothing.i feel that there needs to be some kind of investigation as to why the car started on fire especially when it was stuck mostly in snow.

Multiple problems from carousel motors highway 1 west, iowa city iowa 52246.319-354-2550while changing oil they disconnected a hose which another dealer was able to find and repair.while talking the car in and having it in their possession it received $3,000 damage.they could not diagnose the problem in over 20 days.next they put a fuse box door cover on under warranty.in doing so they removed the sill cover on the driver's side.when they replaced the sill cover the drove the lock downs on the cover through the wiring harness.oblivious to what the had done they blamed me for the damage to the vehicle.carousel motors should not have a mazda franchise.it is not for the seemingly obvious reasons as stated but for the fact that a mr. Pat linn the general manager for the dealership has called my place of employment raking me through the dirt to my manager at work to complain about me to my boss.he has turned this into a personal matter and not a business matter.is this a reaction of an adult?hisowner needs to lock his heals together, release him from his possition, and have the dealership appologize for his misuse of his position.harrassment and slander are not and will not be tollerated.please forward this to mazda .

I purchased a 2003 mazda 6 about a month ago, and i have had the hard shifting problems and the temp gauge going up to high all the time and floating back down.i was not informed of this and other recalls of this model and i have been denied to get the problem fixed.the dealer where i bought it said they flashed it a couple times but it is not stated o n my repair receipt.i feel that i am driving a dangerous car and something needs to be done!!!! i am not going to keep driving this car and i feel i can take it back because my first payment is not due yet.be it said that this car has been in the shop 4 times since day one!they still will not fix it and it is under warranty.this is a rip off and this model is unsafe and these models should be taken off of the market!!!

I started hearing a knocking/ticking noise from the top of the engine. I took it to the auto workshop i was told i will have to change my car engine when the engine has not even get to 100,000 mile.

While driving home the car seemed to have lost all power, but was still running. I was able to coast to my house but then tried to stop and the car surged. I had to pull the emergency brake to stop. I was quite shaken at that point. The engine light came on. I was able todrive it back to town to have the car checked, no error codes showed up on the computer. The engine light did go off, the car ran fine for about 3 months then proceeded to do the same thing. The car lost power but i was able to coast to my place of work. However even though there seemed to be no power again when i tried to brake the car surged and the car almost jumped the curb, which would have put me in my office. I again had the vehicle checked, no errors. After researching it seems this may be due to the automatic throttle sensor. Question with all the complaints, cars stalling at high speeds and the surging of vehicles why is there no recall. You recall for a stupid lights, over spraying of a clear coat, but no recall on something that is putting people in danger?? i don't understand.

2003 mazda6 model cars were built with faulty throttle bodies.unaware of this, i bought one of these vehicles and immediately began experiencing issues with it. When driving very slowly, under 15 mph, the car will suddenly throttle, accelerating it in bursts even when applying the brakes.that issue is problematic but relatively minor; however, there is a much more dangerous issue the faulty throttle body creates. When driving at any speed, the faulty throttle body can cause the engine to cut out without warning. My wife was driving with our kids in the car the first time we had the engine cut out while driving (soon after purchasing the car). Luckily, she was driving in a residential area at 25 mph.the engine has cut out on me while driving 65 mph on the freeway. I was forced to coast through freeway traffic to the shoulder in order to stop the car and restart the engine.the engine has cut out, without warning, at several speeds. There is no rhyme to when it will cut out and no indication it's going to cut out ahead of time.i spent over $500 trying to solve the problem with mechanics unsure what was wrong. Then a mechanic happened to have an old service bulletin (sb), dated 5/18/2006, from mazda that stated throttle bodies with the markings aa, ab, or ba at the end of their serial numbers (as is the case with the one in my car) are "no good".because the part is labeled "no good" under mazda letterhead, i figured there must have been a recall issued before i owned the car that the previous owner somehow missed. I took the car in to a mazda dealership where i was assured no recall has ever been issued on the part and in order to replace it, the cost will be over $1,000.a recall must be made on this extremely dangerous and faulty, by mazda's own admission, part before unsuspecting people are injured or killed, if that hasn't happened already.

Was at a stop sign to make a left turn half way thru the car stalled and all lights came on, vehicle behind me almost ran into us. Barely got pulled over to the side of the road had to turn car off and then back on the check engine light remained on but vehicle would drive, after about 5 starts the light came off had the car checked, was told it was the throttle body. One week later same thing wet to pull onto a busy street and car stalled almost causing another wreck, tried to drive it home and stopped at the grocery store, when i went to pull in the car stalled again in the middle of the street, blocking on coming traffic. Called mazda to see how much it would cost to be fixed, the lady told me that if it was still under warranty it would be free but that expired in 2011. I have seen many of the same complaints about this, mazda has admitted to it being a problem but has not recalled it. We have two kids and thank god nothing serious has happened with us in the car. This problem could very easily cause injury or deaths to any drivers on the road.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda mazda6. The contact stated that while driving approximately 50 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The contact stated that blue smoke was emitting from the tail pipe as the check engine light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for diagnosis. The mechanic stated that the catalytic converters were clogged and would have to be replaced. Additionally, the mechanic stated that the front passenger's side tie rod was loose and could fracture. The vehicle was not repaired. The vin was not available. The approximate failure mileage was 122,000.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact stated that while driving at unknown speeds, the vehicle began to act as if it wanted to stall with the rpm gauge going up and down on the vehicles instrument panel as well as the check engine warning indicator illuminating. The contact stated the failure was a recurring one. The vehicle was taken diagnosed by an independent mechanic, but the diagnosis details could not be provided. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact stated while inspecting the vehicle, an unknown fluid started leaking onto the ground. The failure occurred without warning. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, where it was diagnosed that the radiator cap and coolant bypass fitting had malfunctioned. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 125,326.

Power windows only worked intermittently.dealer in salem, vacould not reproduce problem.dealer in dale city repaired.check engine light came on during acceleration.dealer diagnosed and determined light was associated with power windows.one week later, light came on again.dealer rotated a fuel injected, took the car for two days and deteremined that the problem was fixed.two months later, the light came on again.dealer replaced pcm.two weeks later, light is on again.

Since i first purchased my mazda there has been a faulty fan control module that shorts out my computer.this time the vehicle forced my into an intersection with my grandchildren in the vehicle.it could have been a serious accident.i could keep my vehicle from moving even with the brake on.

Dt:the consumer stated the engine hesitated when she hit the gas and when she is driving, it seemed to hesitate and then goes on. She said the check engine light came on. She has had it to the dealer three times. All this has happened in the last three weeks. She said that two months ago they tried to lock it and the horn started blowing.the dealer was unable to duplicate the problem.

On 17 feb 2011 i was driving my 2003 mazda 6s and while driving at a low speed of 25 mph all my lights on my dashboard turned on and my car immediately began to reduce speed almost to a stand still. Luckily i was able to pull to the side of the road in time to avoid any accidents or possible damage to my vehicle. I restarted my car and was able to proceed in driving. However my engine light remained on. I researched this issue online and found that someone with the same model vehicle and year had the same issue almost verbatim. The referenced a service bulletin from mazda bulletin no: 01-016/06 released in 2006 regarding throttle body replacement. I read the bulletin and sure enough it stated to inspect the letters on the throttle body. It showed aa,ab,ba markings = no good and bb marking = good. So i inspected my vehicles throttle body letter and sure enough it was "aa". I will have to definitely replace it, and of course i have no choice because you can imagine the ramifications of driving on a highway or freeway and something like this were to occur. Accidents, or even death. It is pretty upsetting that something has not been done to correct these issues especially with the potential consequences of this defect!

Engine seized up as it was sitting in driveway warming up. Oil was all over the driveway under the car after the seized up.

Traveling at freeway speeds in ca on the san francisco bay bridge during evening traffic, my 2003 mazda6 suddenly went into "safe or limp" mode.this caused abrupt loss of power with no ability to accelerate, which almost caused a multi vehicle accident.when taken to a mechanic, the root cause was a code dtc p2135 for a defective throttle body.mazda admits 3 (three) versions of their throttle body for that vehicle defective with automatic discard if there is a mil with dtc p2135(per technical service bulletin no. 01-016/06 issued 05/18/2006 by mazda north american operations), and throttle body markings "aa","ab","ba".mine is an "aa".obviously mazda admits that these are defective, but only replaced them under warranty and my vehicle is not under warranty any longer.they call the new part an "upgraded version".my vehicle has done this (safe mode) several times, so now it is parked until i can get it fixed (quoted price for repair is $714 from mazda dealer).these incidents creates an extremely dangerous situation and i feel very lucky that i was not involved in an accident when this happened to me, and luckily no one was injured, it could have been a very dangerous situation.i feel mazda has made a technical service bulletin admitting that this part is defective and it can cause danger and possibly loss of life.mazda needs to be forced to make a recall and replace these parts at no cost to the consumer.defective part - throttle body with markings "aa", "ab", "ba" mine is "aa"

I purchased a 2003 mazda six on 6-28-03. 2 months later the engine and other dash lights appear and car shuts off. I pick up the car 6 days later only to return it a week later when the engine light comes on again. A week later i pick it up on friday at 11:00 a.m. And by 7:00 p.m. All dash lights come on, transmission slipping, speed odometer erratic, and loss of power. It has been in the shop for 12 more days and they can not tell me anything. My piece of crap has been in the shop for 26 days, they have damaged numerous things(spoiler has crack, paint nicks on hood and doors)all i want is my money back and i walk away!

Traveling at speeds of 30-60 mph during any type of traffic (stop and go, freeway speeds, etc), my 2003 mazda6 will suddenly go into a "safe or limp" mode characterized by abrupt loss of power with no ability to accelerate.the rpms drop to between 1000 and 1300 and fluctuate quickly between the two numbers.i have had to quickly press the clutch, turn the car off and back on to regain normal function.when taken to a mechanic, the root cause was determined to be a defective throttle body.upon more research (including this site), this does not appear to be an uncommon issue for this model of mazda.

2003 mazda 6 with regular maintenance and approximately 60k miles. Having incidents of stalling and idling hard. Per one mechanic it is a pvc and lines. A second mechanic showed us a crack in the intake manifold. These parts are cheap since they are plastic. But the quoted installation is over $700 for just the pvc.

Check engine light came on car was hesitating in middle of highway felt like it wanted to shut off made it home next day car did not start had it towed to the dealer car kept in shop for a month dealer could not figure out the problem said it was a sensor in the engine that was defective got the car back but it since then continued to give me problems brought the car back to original dealer crystal mazda for 3 recalls in july04 and other problems, in april05 check engine light suddenly turns on in the middle of a busy highway car starts to jerk and just diedcar was towed to the dealer and they called me weeks later to tell me the engine seazed i have had a lemon law case with kimmel and silverman for a year now dealership have been very nasty to me as well as the manufacturer they do not want to fix the vehicle or give me a replacement i also requested a copy of an invoice describing the cause of the engine dying and diagnosis they refuse to do so i have become so ill because of this and have a child to think about i just want a reliable car that me and my daughter will be safe in can you help.

Beginning in 2006, my 2003 mazda 6 would randomly experience power failure while driving. This was both scary and dangerous. I would be driving, the car would completely loose power with no warning and all the lights on the dashboard would come on. I would have to pull over, turn my car off and back on, and then it would work fine till it randomly happened again. Obviously loosing power at a high speed is extremely dangerous for both myself and the other drivers. I took it to the dealership many times and they were never able to determine a cause. I brought my car to the dealership over 10 times for this behavior. Finally in august 2008, i was reading on a mazda message board that this behavior is caused by a bad throttle body. There was even a mazda service bulletin issued for it in 2006 (bulletins 01-016/06 last issued may 18, 2006). I called the dealership, had the throttle body replaced and have not experienced this behavior since. The service bulletin had serial numbers of bad throttle bodies listed on it, mine was one of them.i believe that this should be a mazda recall, not just a service bulletin, as dealerships do not even seem to be aware of the problem and it the car is extremely dangerous if the throttle body fails.

I purchased my 2003 mazda6 in june of 2003. Since then it has been in the shop for mutiple problems. Several recalls of course, but the first major problem came when the car was about 1 year old and my radiator seam at the bottom seperated. They replaced the radiator. When i picked the car up my air conditioning was not working, so i returned the car and the problem was fixed at that time.april of 2005, my car only had about 19,000 miles on it my air conditioning started blowing hot air. I took it to the dealer and the stated that my freon was low and charged it up. I asked how that could be with a car as new as this one and they stated, it was normal. For a car that is less than 2 years old?? last week, august of 2005, once again my air is blowing hot,particulaly when sitting in an idle position,works better upon accleration. I took it to the dealer and they stated the control fan module was bad and replaced it,which by the way had already been replaced with a recall. As of augusst 22, 2005 my air is still not working properly. We went on a short trip and were stuck in a traffic jam. Once again the air would not blow cold while we were sitting.i know this is not right because when we first got the car, the air worked great.i am really frustrated with this car,i just keep waiting for the next thing to go wrong. I have also had to replace my braked pads and had the left front rotor turned. I think mazda owes us all of us that have purchased these cars and had major problems a big apology . And should replace these vehicles, which i know will never happen.

While waiting in my car at the bank with the air conditioning on i noticed an odd smell and then the temp gauge started rising fast.i pulled to the side immediately and turned my car off and waited 30 minutes.i took my car in the next day and was informed my cooling fan control unit needed replacing, which they did.i had to ask for my invoice which was given to me.it is working fine now, but i find it odd that such a new car could have such a problem.

After 4 previous repairs i started my car and my check engine light once again began to flash, this time flashing rapidly.i called the dealer who told me not to drive the car because the rapid flash means the car is unsafe. I was told i had a bad coil. After a $400 repair, i proceeded to drive the car home only to have the same light flash.the dealer then told me my cataliytic converters split.now i have a $4,600 repair job on a 2003.please check to see if there are any other complaints on this vehicle.i have had nothing but problems with this car for the past year.thank you.

While driving, the vehicle stalled. Thedealer was aware of the problem. *phsince the vehicle was turned around leading to downhill, the vehicle restarted.two dealers didn't know what was wrong.the vehicle did not run at 8500 elevation.the consumer was left sideways in the road when there was hesitation. *scc

The "new" vehicle had 900 unexplained mile on it upon purchase.within 4 months the check engine light came on and the vehicle kicks back when changing gears.took to dealer in pennsylvania, was advised that needed knock sensor replaced, but they did not have part.took the vehicle to dealer in virginia, did not look at it, although i told them what other dealership said, and told them there was a recall on it.took to different dealership and was advised that there are 2 recalls, and they were fixed. Now the fan races minutes after the vehicle is off.also, the vehicle seems to be lacking in power despite the engine is 220 horse power.*la

While driving vehicle stalled without warning.

Over a period of 1-1/2 hours, our 2003 mazda 6 quickly lost all acceleration power on 5 different occasions while driving out of town on the highway. Following a 'slight bump' the car went from 70 mph to 35 mph to 10 mph, quickly, regardless of pressure applied to the accelerator.getting to the side of the road in traffic going 70mph+ was in itself a challenge and after pulling to a complete stop the car began jerking fiercely. Only turning off the engine completely was the system 'reset'. The mazda dealership hooked it up and determined the throttle body must be replaced for a quoted cost of $534.41 (macon, ga). The sensor itself, the likely culprit for this issue, is not offered or available for sale by mazda without its 'body', unlike countless other makes, which is outrageous, but the most disgusting part of this issue is that although there are a critical number of complaints logged about this issue, the tps has not been listed as a recall. The dealership stated they did not have to replace it since there were only 'service bulletins' listed and no actual recalls for the parts. They are very aware of the situation.from my own experience and my daughter's with this issue, i can guarantee that this has definitely caused serious injuries, if not fatalities, that just haven't been reported or possibly identified.i will continue to hunt down the sensor as i will not fall prey to mazda's 'racket'. The car will sit until i locate the part, or end up being parted out.

I purchased my mazdain 2003.since the purchase everything was fine until the end of oct. 2005 my engine light came on and my car was shaking, and my rpms where malfunctioning (going up and down, then back up again).i took my car to the dealership and was informed that my car jumped time, my car had under 45k miles.they fixed it, but in the beginning of nov. 2005, not even a month later, my car did the same thing, but this time i was told that the bolts in my engine needed to be replace.then in the summer of 2006 i had a vacuum leak, my car would start and stop, i had that repaired at repair shop of my own chose, since my warranty was up. Now in april 2007, i was informed by a repair shop, of my own chose,that i thrown a rod in my motor.

While driving 40 mph vehicleintermittently accelerated at higher speed. Cruise control would not be engaged during this issue. Vehicle was taken to the dealer on several occasions, and they were unable to duplicate the problem.the vehicle was taken to the dealer and was told that the vehcile was in good condtion and that nothing was wrong.the vehicle would also hesitate at various speeds and made a clunking noise.the vehicle revved high while at a complete stop.the check enigine light illuminated intermittently.each time the dealer turn the engine light out it would come back on.

I drive a 2003 mazda 6s, which i purchased from bigger's mazda in elgin, il. This vehicle was purchased new from them.my area of concern involves the check engine light on my vehicle, and the performance of the vehicle when this light is on. On april 2, 2004 my check engine light appeared for the third time. When i operate my vehicle with the light on it performs erratically and unusual. The last time the light came on, i was pulling out into traffic, and my vehicle bogged down. In turn, the driver behind almost rear-ended me. While driving my vehicle yesterday, i went to pass a car on the expressway, and again my car bogged down.every time that i take my car to the dealer, i provide them with the same complaint. I have paperwork to show that i have taken it in three times.after a recent visit to my dealer, they stated, "we have no fix for the check engine light. The light will always come back on. If you are lucky, our mazda engineers will have a remedy by august 2004 (today is 4/6/04). The check engine light is caused by a misfire in the fourth cylinder". What an awful response from the dealer.i am concerned about the safety of my car. I am also concerned about the other drivers around my car. After three visits to my dealer, i feel lost and helpless.please advise.*la

It was stated that the consumer's vehicle has the presence of rust on the door sashes of all four doors.*la within eight months of owning the vehicle, there were other problems such as a defective cd player, a persistent sulfurous smell coming from the exhaust which entered the vehicle, a defective fuse access cover and the removal of theinterior driver and passenger door panels to remedy a rattling noise when driving.

I purchased my 2003 mazda 6s in october 2003.since i have owned the car i gets poor gas mileage on it (about 16-18 miles per gallon).i do plenty of city driving but i still feel that this is not adequate.even when i drive on the highway the gas mileage averages poorly.there is also a smell coming from the exhaust when vehicle is in motion.the vehicle also rev's up higher before switching from lower gears to higher gears.i do not 'jack rabbit' start or stop the vehicle.there is also alot of brake dust on the rims of the front wheels.acceleration is very poor.there is also a jerk when the vehicle switches from first gear to second.don't get me wrong i love the way the vehicle looks, which is the main reason why i bought the vehicle, but the overall quality has turned out to be much poorer than i had expected.

Engine needed to be replacedtwice within less than 5 1/2 yrs.transmission needed to be replaced within 6yrs. Brakes needed to be replaced every year and a half.interior cheaply made. All part on this vehicle are plastic and brake very easy.motor mounts needed to be replace within 4 yrs.this vehicle is a owners nightmare . I would never recommended anyone to purchase this car. Repairs cost more than the car is worth. Engine repair $6000.00, motor mounts $900, transmission $2400-$4800, brakes $400, and the cost goes on. (lemon).

On july 4th weekend it started making a clicking noise when you drive it 65mph. The dealership decided it was a defective catalytic conveter. I had to drive it 3 weeks making this noise.then the check engine light came on.then i got a recall for the brake system. Now it's aug. 8 i am still in a rental car. All i want is for the dealership to take back the car, cancel the loan & go our seperate ways.

There is an odor coming from the exhaust.i have taken the car to the dealer two times for this, and they told me it was the gas i was buying.so i started buying gas out of town for a while, the odor continues.i have 12,000 miles on the car, and the odor keeps getting progressively worse.but the dealer keeps telling me it is the gas, and offers no help.

My car has been giving off a rotten egg odo for 8 months now since i have purchased ths vehicle. Everyone who rides in my car including myself get physically sick due to the smell.

Sulfur (rotten egg) smell in vehicle cabin.dealer said no fix from mazda related to exhaust issue, several complaints, issue lasts up to 8k miles.car has less than 800 miles.

Rotten egg smell from exaust. Dealer showed me mazda's service bulliten which states it comes from higher sulfer gas, and will dissipate by 10,000 miles. Now have almost 8,000 miles with no lessening of smell regardless of gas used. (slight improvement with amoco) someone inky had newer catlysts installed by mazda with good results. This should be done across the board for anyone with this problem.

Sulfur odor coming from car.i contacted the dealership within the first few months of ownership and they said it was because of the gasoline being used and it would eventually go away.well, now there is 26,000 miles on the vehicle and the smell is still evident, if not even worse.

2003 mazda 6check engine light at 1 week,transmissions slipping & slamming into gear through 1 1/2 years of ownership, at 35,000 engine went was replaced, replacement had 300 miles on it when it died on the southern end of nj turnpike towed to de dealer, still has transmission problems, back in shop now for engine problems only 3000 on replacement engine, into dealer numerous times for water leaks that have cause mold & rust inside the car on seatbelts & causing me a great deal of illness-still not repaired going through lemon law since nov 2003.

The check engine light has been on in my car since the first week i bought the car.i have taken it to the dealer service department, and they tell me that the key entry system is the problem. After the fourth time hearing this, i decided to write someone and let it be known.i use my car as an office for my job, and it's very important that me and my family feel safe in the car.please tell me what i have to do get this fixed.i can't keep taking days off work to go back to the repair shop. The dealership is malloy mazda in woodbridge,va.

My car has had 4 recalls. I purchased the car in 2006 not knowing that parts had been recalled 3 times. I recently fixed a problem in my car that i feel make have had something to do with recall #3 , the fuel sender unit.

Car engine stopping while running and a no start. Service engine light warnings over a long time. One repair by mazda on the gas cap repair, but i have also uncovered a recall on leaking seals at the tank on 2003 models, 03v-531. Service light again came on from 10/18/10 -10/30/10. While out of town the car sat airport parking on my return it stopped without warning at a light 11/22/10, but all lights and radio stations were active, so no battery problem. After adjusting the filler gas cap several times i found it wasn't closing and could be pulled right off. We have made sure the cap is on tightly each time and since cancelled the dealer appointment for a $100 inspection, no light since. 2/9/11 after driving 35 miles the car would not restart, aaa came out and no battery trouble, but a 30 mile towing was required to my home. The vehicle sits in a garage avg temp of 35-45f. The next morning after several attempts and using both keys it restarted and we took it into a dealer. @2 days later they find a "service bulletin" 901-009/07) from 2007. Possible @ -30c (zerof) the no start or crank due to moisture within the main relay and/or fuel pump relay. That night 25-30f in nov no way close. On 02/12/11 while driving on is77 the car quite running again, 911 called as i made it to the side of the road under heavy fast moving traffic. This week on 2/22 while in the garage hesitant to turn over again but did start on the 3rd try, vehicle temp reading was 47f. So now for 2 new parts for 2003-2005 models and $450+ repairs can be made. The parts are in and per the bulletin looks more like a by-pass option than replacing a defective oem part. Cutting out while driving is very serious, as much so as acceleration on a toyota. Since my company is tied to the tire/wheel & auto mfg and we conduct 1/2 dot tire test for the usa, i'm pretty sure i know what i'm talking about on defects.

2003 mazda 6 recall 1403l, campaign # 03v531000, on my vehicle supposedly was repaired in baton rouge at diamond mazda in 2004, but car is leaking in the same area that was a problem to begin with now. So the workmanship where they repair the seal is not very good. Four years later i buy the car and it is poor gas on the top of my gas tank out of the seal around the fuel pump which just happens to be right under where my child sits. So i've been in a time bomb just waiting to go off. No one can give me proof or paper work of where this recall has been taken care of. Now suppose that it did blow up and kill or injure myself and my 3 year old daughter. Wouldn't mazda be at fault for not properly repairing the vehicle?

I purchased the mazda6 i in late august of 2003, expecting at least roughly, the 25 - 32 mpg that was advertised on my car window.from the start i was getting 18-20 mpg regularly, i do a lot of city driving, but even when i drive on the highway, the highest it has ever been was 27-28 and thats putting 300 miles on it in one straight shot.i complained to a dealer in toledo when i had about 2200 miles on my car, and he told me that was normal for a break in period and to come back when i had 3500 miles on my car.i waited and waited, continuing to get the same poor gas mileage.finally, with 3800 miles on my car i sent an e-mail to the deal once again because i was still getting the same gas mileage.the dealer responded 3-5 days later (though the website said same day or next day response) and he said, that was normal and mazda doesn't consider that excessive.23 - 29 was what was expected for my engine, but that was what was expected for the 6 cylinder, that i don't have.he was rude and couldn't take the time to read my email and respond with accurate information.i also complained to a different dealer near my hometown where i purchased the vehicle, and when i tried to describe the problem the lady asked me what i wanted them to do about it.why should i have to figure out the problem after i spend that much money on a new car?

While driving home from my chardon, oh office on either aug 5 or 6, 2009 at 35 mph my car's rpm needle started jumping and the car's "gas pressure" felt like it was hicupping. The rpm needle jumped from @2 to 4 twice, then the car started steadily accelerating in speed. The brake pedal at this time felt "hard" and the car was "fighting against my attempt to slow down" and the rpm's were still trying to accelerate. I imagine if i pushed on the brake and the gas pedal at the same time, it would simulate the way it felt. I also have a manual shift mode on my car and used it to more effectively slow down (vs using the brake) but at the same time the car was still trying to accelerate, but couldn't because i was in a lower gear/manual mode. And i remember while in manual gear 1, my car was lurching me back and forth in my seat as i drove through my neighborhood to get home, and my foot was off the gas pedal! on aug 12th, 2009 i mentioned this event to a mitsubishi dealer's mechanic (friend of my father) who was replacing my power steering line, he took a look at my car but said it seemed fine. My husband has been driving that car since that event, because i am afraid of it happening again. The car has not done this while my husband has been driving it. Not to sound like an oddball, but if i didn't know better i would have said my car was acting possessed, like the movie "christine". I have to think that there is some correlation to what my car did and what is going on with toyota. My husband is an electrical engineer and he used to work for grob systems, who does engineering for multiple automobile manufacturers, and i wonder if mazda has some same system in their automobile's as toyota and if it was engineered by the same supplier. I would swear on a bible that this happened to me with my car. (my husband left grob to move to cleveland and marry me).it sucks having this car now, it is paid off, i'm afraid to drive it, and i don't want to sell to an innocent stranger.

I asked mazda to fix the two recall issues and that have not called me nor set up an appointment for this repair.

My four year old son got his finger caught in the door handle of my 2003 mazda6.the door handles differ from other handles in that a section of them pull out and then retract back.

Transmission kicks really hard making the car feel like it was hit from behind. The car is hard to control at the time this happens. I've seen numerous complaints about this. It is a serious problem,especially when our 90lb daughter is driving this vehicle. I feel that mazda needs to take care of this issue before someone is injured or worse!

2003 mazda 6.consumer writes in regards to vehicle would not start after being parked for several hours.discovered pcm needed to be replaced.the consumer was informed mazda stopped manufacturing the pcm for vehicles manufactured in 2003 and therefore, it had to special ordered.it took eight weeks for the dealer to receive the part.

I hadn't had the car too long and was taking off from a traffic light when the hard shift first occurred.i really thought i'd been hit from behind by another car, but this was not the case.it didn't happen too often for awhile, then it started happening more frequently so i took it in.i took it to multiple mazda dealers, where i would leave it overnight for them to try and reproduce the problem. They always insisted that they could not so i gave up for awhile.it got worse and then i saw a tsb online about the issue.the supposed fix is to flash the computer chip.every dealer i contacted about it said they'd charge an hour labor to do this, and my private mechanic couldn't do it as it's some magical thing only the dealers can do.anyway i have not had it flashed yet, the car is coming up on 147k and the problem is now so bad that it's dangerous. I will have the flash done in the next couple days but i don't think it will help.i also had to have the throttle body replaced a year ago as i was nearly hit by a big rig when the car shut down in the fast lane. So many people have had this and similar really dangerous problems, this car should have been recalled years ago.

After two years of driving this car the clutch pedal assembly completely broke puncturing through the fire wall and brake reservoir, luckily i was starting the vehicle in a hospital parking lot when i pushed the clutch in it went completely to the floor and did not come back up.it was completely inoperable, i had to have the car towed after patching the firewall and replacing the clutch pedal assembly for $1800 i was told that part was faulty on this vehicle and if it happened once it would probably happen again.one year later it broke again only this time i was driving down the road when i went to shift gears the clutch went to the floor and didn't come back up, i had to pull over luckily i didn't get hit or cause an accident.i was told by mazda there would be no recall because this part isn't a direct safety issue.

While driving at any speed consumer heard a loud knocking noise coming from the rear. Consumer was able to maintaincontrol of the vehicle, and drove it to dealer for inspection. However,mechanic could not duplicatethe problem.

There is something wrong with the transmission as if it does not know which gear it sould be in.there is a sevre bucking from 1st into 2nd gear where the tires chirp and the car jumps.this happens under light throtle and it happens alot.it could be a problem with the pcm or ecu or the transmission itself.i have never had a car that has done this.when you spend 25k on a car you would expect quality but not with the 6.

I have a 2003 mazda 6s with the automatic transmission. Since it was new it made noises and did not feel as though it was shifting right. It hangs between gears and there is a considerable hesitation when accelerating. Have had it to the dealer four times, went through the lemon law, and even though with the tech in the car i got the car to glitch and hang, he indicated normal operation. He insisted that the switch to synthetic transmission fluid is the culprit; however, quality of operation has decreased significantly since the dealer flushed the fluid and went back to conventional transmission fluid.*la

2003 mazda6 6.0 atx -car suddenly loses power while accelerating.the engine revs but no power to wheels.i have contacted local dealer without any resolution to why this is occurring.upon a brief internet search i find this is not an isolated case.i have noticed it happens more often with ac unit on.

The transmission in my 2003 mazda 6s has failed on me 2 times in 2 years at the most diffucult times... Finals week at college and aslo during a busy time of work. The dealership has ackknowledgewd the problem and reprogrammed the computer system. Still the car had problems immidieatley after that visit, the transmission failed. They replaced the transmission with a new one, it too had the sameproblems... They acknowledged the situation and were unable to diagnose the problem. They told me that my car already had the upgraded computer program that is supposed to fix the erratic shifting. And that i should return if it gets worse. When it did, the technician drove it and now knows what it is doing, but he too said he doesn't know how to fix the problem if no check engine lights are coming on.... Thats the other problem. The check engine light don't come on when the car does it, but further more they don't even come on when the transmission fails completely! i am worried that this car has a major problems that will only get worse and adversley affect other components. Which it already has... They rack and pinion went out and almost caused me to wreck into a city bus, the subframe was installed too tight and caused the car to squeak and rattle,the brakes have a chatter that has been addressed and have been replaced twice. But most of al all of these things have happened in the first 2 years (20 months.) the original transmission issue was addressed at 12,000 miles and has since by my opinion been the cause of the other related problems. Also the car sits an inch and a quarter lower on the passenger front than the driver front. Causing the rear to also be uneven.

Violent shifting from 1st to 2nd gear in the mazda6s with automatic transmission.feels as if the car has been hit by another vehicle from the rear.front tires momentarily lose traction and chirp sometimes.these violent shifts only happen during mild accelleration.

I bought my car march 6,2003. In may of 2003 it started making a howling noise when turning left at low speeds or into a parking space. I have brought it in 4 times and they cannot find the noise. For the last 2 months my transmission has been hesitating at around 25-35 mph. It is like it doesn't know what gear to shift into and when it does it makes a loud clunking noise and my car jerks forward. I have had it in twice for that and they cannot find the source of that either.

The transmission is slipping, not wanting to shift into 2nd gear and then when it does shift it jerks the car really hard. This used to occur very seldom but since the car now has 98,000 miles on it, this has been happening almost all the time. I have heard that the car needs to be reflashed, but i have also read that this does not help. Many people with the same car have the same exact problem. Also this transmission is not able to be rebuilt. The transmission needs to be recalled.

I have a mazda 6i.at 8500 miles after having my car i had the clutch go out. When i took it to the dealer i was severly stereotyped as a street racer which i am in no way , if that were the case i would have bought the 6s . They wanted to charge me $800 to fix the problem , which i immediately disputed and was treated as a child.eventually they fixed it and i quote "not under warranty but fixed out of kindness" and that was the end of that. Now at 13000 miles my manual transmission would not shift into 1st or 2nd gear i took it in and the first response i got from the service clerk was " whats wrong with the car?" and that if they find i caused the problem it would be estimated$1000 to fix it if it wasn't covered by the warranty. I feel that because my age i am discriminated against even though i purchased the car myself in my name at 18. I am currently waiting for a response from the dealer as to what is going to happen with the transmission replacement.

I won a 2003 mazda6s and i am having issues with my clutch.i first changed the clutch at 18,000 miles and i had to argue with mazda on that because the clutch is only covered for 1yr/12,000 miles.now at 35,000 and change miles my clutch has failed again.mazda has no recalled this issue with the clutch and in my opinion it should be a recall.i am a member at http://forum.mazda6club.com/), and there you can do a search and fine hundreds of people with the same clutch issue.the failure of a clutch from normal wear and tear does not normally occur so early in a car's life (see www.drivetrain.com/clutcharticle.html).in addition the wear of the clutch under normal conditions should not be the customer's fault and mazda has not acknowledged this. I would like mazda to understand that there is an issue with the clutch in these carsthank you for your time.

Clutch pedal assembly cracks causing it to be difficult to shift gears, clutch will stick and not spring back. Eventually the car is unusable due to the clutch. I did research to see there are many complaints on this problem concerning mazda3, mazda6 and the rx8. I had to buy a new clutch pedal assembly but seems the problem is happening again. Mazda needs to make a stronger bracket to reinforce the pedal assembly.

We purchased a 2003 mazda6 new from a mazda dealership.we had some issue with the car shuddering when engaging the clutch and called the dealership.we were told that the issue was related to "variable valve timing" and told to rev it a little higher when engaging the clutch.at approx 40,000 miles the clutch wore out and we tried to contact mazda and file a claim, but we were denied.i paid to have the clutch repaired, and now have approx. 60,000 miles on the vehicle.recently, the whole clutch pedal assembly has malfunctioned and is causing significant issues with the engagement of the gears.several times the car has not gone into gear and my wife got stuck in the middle of an intersection the other day and was almost struck by another vehicle because she could not get the car in gear.i have again contacted mazda and have again been told that they will most likely not cover my issues...

The clutch on a standard tramission has gone out and stated to be abused.the clutch has not been abusedthe car is 15 months old and has 14000 miles on it.

Cv joint boot failed and wore a hole in the brake line. Most of the ability to brake the vehicle was lost. There did not appear to be a split brake system.

My wife was driving our 2003 mazda 6 with 56,000 miles to school on thursday morning on a busy 2-lane highway.she shifted (likely to 4th), and the manual transmission locked-up.fortunately, she is an experienced driver and was able to disengage the clutch and coast the car to the shoulder without incident.if she had been inexperienced, or if a shoulder had not been available, or if the car behind her had been closer, the outcome could have been tragic.regarding, the transmission, it had been maintained with all of the recommended fluid changes, and it was locked-up and damaged beyond economical repair.a used transmission was installed by the local mazda dealer at a cost of over $2,000.

Dt*: the contact stated there were several problems with the vehicle. The first problem involved the brake pads that wereworn out and had to be replaced after 20,000 miles. The second problemdealt withmanual transmission.sometimes the manualtransmission shifted roughly. Third problem,in cold weather, the engine surged and revved high for three seconds. The dealership told the contact the brake wear was normal. The dealership could not duplicate the other problems.

In early june my mazda 6 mtx began to experience a problem with the transmission.whenever i would accelerate the rpms would increase by 1k then decrease by about the same amount before the transmission would catch and the power would be distributed to the wheels.now a little over a month later my clutch is almost completely worn out.i'm taking my car in to get this checked out, but the car shouldn't be experiencing any problems with the clutch/transmission when it's still under 26,000 miles.the car is not in stop-and-go traffic nor is it under any heavy load.

2003 mazda6(s) manual transmission developed shudder when letting out the clutch in 1'rst gear. Seems to occur when the drive train has warmed up. Took it to the dealer who attributed it to the traction control being on. When i turned the tc off the problem was the same. I will take it back again and request the dealership ride with me to experience the problem. The problem did not develop until 13k miles (500 miles ago).

Went to store pushed in clutch went to the floor parked the car and when i came out i could not start the car. The safety thing would not engage to allow me .had the car towed to a mechanic he told me it was the clutch assembly, the car has been back three times in two years because it's tough to shift clutch real spongy. Today it went to the floor again and stalled, can't start thecar in the middle of an intersection had to have it pushed out of the way then towed home. The motor was replaced at 32k. The first time the whole clutch was replaced at 40k and it,s never been right since.

5-speed manual is very difficult to shift in lower gears.very noticeable when downshifting into 1st or 2nd gear.when very cold, you cannot get into 2nd gear when upshifting.have taken into dealer 3 times with them not being able to duplicate problem.

I was driving home from work.it was cold, and as i usually do, turned on the heated seat.about 20 minutes into my drive, i noticed that my back was heating up more than usual.my back then started to burn, so i immediately turned the heated seat off.then i noticed a smell of burned plastic.after i arrived home, i got out of my car and noticed that there was a burn hole through my leather seat.i took off my jacket and noticed that it had also burned a hole through it as well.i contacted my dealer and took it in on january 21.they told me that because the warranty wasn't any good, there was nothing they could do.any repairs would be at my expense.i told them that they replaced my heated seat in january of '09 because it had stopped working and they charged me around $500.four years later, it malfunctioned and they don't want to take any blame.i told the dealer it was a safety issue, not a warranty issue. I've emailed mazda's website but no one is responding.

When i take my foot off the gas it stays at the same speed or it speeds up on its own. When i press on the break sometimes it feels like it's not going to stop and just keep going or it jerks forward when i stop. This happens when i am driving on the road and the cruise control is not on when this happens.

Brakes makes a hard grouding noise when coming to a complete stop.took to the dealer to have it looked at. The tech said he couldn'tfind anything. This happens every day.in aug 2003 there was a recallon the brakes. I took the car in so that they can look at it in augustfor the recall. The brakes are still making that noise.

Still hearing the brakes grinding noise when stopping. Went back to the dealer, it was heard by the master tech there at the dealer. Hestated that mazda was looking into a solutions.

Brakesmakes a grinding noise when stopping.

Brakes still grinding when stopping.another new set of brakes was put on.dealer stated the the brakeline was broke.

Brakesmakes a grinding noise when stopping.

Brakes still grinding when stopping.another new set of brakes was put on.dealer stated the the brakeline was broke.

When brakes are used there is a loud clicking noise. This has happened several times and when taken to the dealer was told that they could not duplicate the problem and that the brake hardware had already been replaced on this vehicle because of the grinding problem we had taken in for on several occasions previously. We had also had to take the car in 4+ times telling them that there was a problem with cold starting, getting a "we can not duplicate the problem"...the 5th time it had to be towed because the alternator went out. This is after they sold us a $120 battery because they said that was the problem.

We bought our new 2003 mazda 6 in july 2003. Few months later my wife noted a loud scraping/grinding noise from the front end when making sharp slow left or right turns with brakes applied.the noise also occurred when pulling into a parking space. This happened 3-4 times weekly.finally , we brought the car into the dealership at least 3 times for the problem, but the noise could not be reproduced consistently.a engine belt was replaced in 12/03, but the problem persisted.during the last visit in 2/14/04 to the dealer, we were told that the brakes could be at fault and mazda is looking for a solution.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6.the contact stated that it takes an extended period of time to stop the vehicle when the brake pedal is depressed.he also heard a loud grinding noise when attempting to stop the vehicle.the contact took the vehicle to a local repair shop and they stated that the brake shoes dug into the rotors.as a result, the rotors needed to be replaced.the vehicle was repaired at the cost of $289.he notified the manufacturer in reference to premature wear of the rotors, but was not provided with any assistance.the vin was unknown.the failure and current mileages were 25,000.

Front (right) end squeaks/grinds mainly while turning, however has continued after straightening out.started around 10,000 miles.i've taken it in 3 different times to two different dealers.this last time (now at ~50,000) i was told it was a break pad problem and that: my break pads were 80% worn.my rotors needed to be turned. I was also now charged for this visit that still didn't fix the problem.

I had a terrible experience couple of days ago. When i was driving back home in the midnight and in the middle of nowhere, my less than 2 and half years old mazda 6 start to make very loud annoying noise. I was scared to death at that time. Later i found out there is a manufacture defect relating to the problem that i had experienced, which mazda has known the problem about a year ago. They even have a bulletin describe this problem and the title is'04-004/04 2003-2003 mazda 6 -front brake judder and /or brake moan noise'. They never made any recalls on this issue and leave this risk to their customer intentionally.

Cv joint boot failed and wore a hole in the brake line. Most of the ability to brake the vehicle was lost. There did not appear to be a split brake system.

The computer system failed without warning. As a result the brakes locked, then started smoking. The cause has yet to be determined. Please provide additional information.

2003 mazda 6 2.3l a/t with 10,450 miles: right front disc brake component(s) failure.took the car to a mazda service center and was told a special repair kit was required but that mazda was only authorizing the dealers to repair this under warrenty, on a case-by-case basis.i have not experienced brake failure at this time, and i have scheduled service to examine and repair.

Brake rotors on the 2003 mazda 6 seem to be prone to early warping.i had a set machined, then replaced 3 months later and now warped again after only two months.

It was at 7,000 miles on vehicle, that i experienced the brakes acting like they were out of round.it was at 11,000 miles that i had the brakes checked out. I was told that all 4 disk brake rotors needed to be resurfaced.dealership said it was because i had taken my car to a car wash and that all 4 rotors had warped.

Consumer complained that front brake rotors wore outexcessively within 8,000 miles.vehicle was taken to the dealer, who turned both front rotors.

Bought car new in mar. 03 and loved it.about three months later i started to hear squeal from front suspension/brakes when making slow left turns with brakes applies.have taken car to two different dealers that could not reproduce the problem.in dec. 03 same sound started happening when making left or right turns.also, brakes are now making high pitched squeals when coming to a stop with low to moderate pressure applied.one dealer said it was the dust shield and re-adjusted it, but did not solve problem.now dealer says that both problems may be related, but if its the pads or the rotors have to be replaced, i would have to pay to have them resurfaced or replaced.

Consumer began to hear popping noises in the front end of the vehicle when turning the steering wheel. *la there was a pop noise in the front end when the vehicle sat for a while and when going from reverse to drive, the struts and mounts were noisy, the lower body fairing had come apart twice, and there was a grinding noise in the brakes due to the warped front brake rotors. *sc

When coming to a stop brakes failed. Consumer pulled the vehicle to the side of the road and used the emergency brake to stop the vehicle. Consumer took vehicle to dealer,and dealer determined thatbrake line leaked.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact took the vehiclefor an oil change when the mechanic informed him that the brakelines were bending and pushing into the axle boots. The mechanic replaced the axle and brake lines at the contacts expense. The dealer was contacted but no assistance was provided. The failure mileage was 50,000 and the current mileage is 51,000. Updated 10/05/10 updated 10/07/10

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. While backing out of a parking space, the steering wheel required more force to steer and the electronic power steering warning light illuminated. The contact restarted the vehicle and was able to resume normal operation. The failure recurred intermittently. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the electronic hydraulic power steering pump failed and needed to be replaced. The vin was not included in nhtsa campaign number: 10v374000 (steering). The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 57,650.

The vehicle is a 2003 mazda 6.2 front, right control arms are bad.

Steering wheel defective.

While driving 60 mph, the vehicle swerved to the left. The consumer was not able to maintain control of the vehicle and crashed into an embankment.the vehicle was towed to the dealer for inspection, the and mechanic determined that rain caused the vehicle to swerve.

Failure of the rack & pinion steering twice in the last 1.5 years; march 2004 and again sept. 2005. Needed to be replaced each time.replacement was done under warranty the first time[ at 20,000 miles]; the second time mazda paid for the part even though the car had 54,000 miles on it and was out of warranty; i paid for the labor.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6.the contact stated that the paint was blistered on the fender on the rear passenger side of the vehicle.the dealer stated that they were aware of the corrosion on the rear fender.the dealer referred the contact to a body shop for repair; however, he took the vehicle to his body shop instead.the mechanic inspected the fender and pieces of it came off in his hand.the mechanic repaired three holes in the rear passenger side fender.the failure mileage was 80,000 and current mileage was 85,000. Updated 08/23/08. Ljthe fender rusted in 3 places. Updated 08/25/08

There is a rattling noise coming from the passenger side dash.i have taken the vehicle in 3 times, and the noise is still there.they replaced some padding and tightened a charcoal filter.it is very annoying having a brand new car with a loud rattle.

I purchased a 2003 mazda6 2 weeks ago, the car has been driven a total of 100 miles and has been covered since purchase. Last night, i found rust around the weather strips in all 4 doors. I called mazda and apparently they knew about the problem for a while but did not address the problem before selling the car to me. The car has been on the dealer lot for 5 months and they never took care of that problem while it was sitting on the lot....i had to find and point the problem out to them. No one should have to pay money for a "new" vehicle with rust on it.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6. The contact stated that while the vehicle was stationary, after closing the front drivers side door and attempting to open the door, it was jammed and could not be open. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda mazda6. The contact stated that the front driver's side door would not open. The vehicle was taken to a dealer for diagnosis but the vehicle was not inspected and the contact was informed that the failure was a common problem. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 110,000. Updated 4/1/13the consumer stated the spring for the door lock acutuator would fail, trapping occupants in the vehicle. Updated 04/19/2013

We have owned our mazda 6 since 2003. This year there is substantial rust in both rear fenders. Researching this it appears to be a common problem, such a problem that it was arecall in england. We contacted mazda to see if a recall was available to america, but one was not. Mazda is aware of the problem as they modified their design to change the rear fender on future models. We fear that the structure has degraded greatly that a side impact would result in serious injury to rear passengers.

Rust has begun to form under the weather stripping of the doors as well as on the sash on the right front door.car was purchased in march 2003.in a service bulletin (09-020/02) mazda north american operations claims it is not rust but a orange/yellow surface stain caused by negative reaction with a lubricant used at the factory.however the following email is from mazda operations stating it is indeed rust.so which is it?"october 22, 2003 owner nullunit2000" received the following e-mail from mazda and posted it in the rust problem topic at mazda6club.com.thank you for contacting mazda north american operations. I appreciate the opportunity to respond to you.mazda north american operations has become aware of a surface rust situation on the doors of certain mazda6 sedans built at the company's auto alliance international production facility in flat rock, michigan.when the door-sash weather-stripping is installed on the assembly line, a soapy water solution is used to ease installation of the stripping into a channel on the door. During the affected time period, that soapy solution was found to have included a substance that has caused surface rust to appear on the channel underneath the door weather-stripping on a number of vehicles. The solution has since been replaced, and vehicles built after july 22, 2003 are not affected.mazda is working on a service procedure to correct the situation and will be notifying owners of affected vehicles as soon as possible.please take a moment to give us your opinion about our e-mail service. Click the link below to complete a brief, online survey.http://www.zoomerang.com/survey.zgi?f3tshlv0x57gc4nhrshlsh44regards,lisa lasky"i certainly did not intend to purchase a car that will eventually rust through.please look into the matter.

The vehicle is a 2003 mazda 6.2 front, right control arms are bad.

There is a metallic "clunking" sound some where in the right front (and can sometimes be felt through the steering wheel) when making low speed, 90 degree turns.

When turning steeringa grinding noise is produced.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6.the contact heard a loud noise coming from the front passenger side of the vehicle every time she drives over a bump or makes a turn.she has had several repair shops inspect the vehicle and attempt to remedy the failure.she has had both front and rear brakes, rotors, and tires replaced.one mechanic stated that the pistons needed to be replaced as well.the speed, vin, and engine size were unknown.the failure mileage was 81,000 and current mileage was 87,000.

I have been in the dealership for the same symptom being a squealing low pitch to a hum when i turn left into any parking spot. My brakes and rotors have been replaced along with a caliper spring. They keep on saying that they have fixed the problem each time and it comes back. I have been in four times for this. Also i have had an ecu computer replaced due to a check engine light appearing. Lastly, my glove box has been replaced because it was installed with the light on permanently. This problem still exists because the dash board is not perfectly flush with the edge of the glove box, therefore the light continues to stay on and i can see it when i drive at night.

There is a "clunking" sound coming from the left front of the car that can be felt through the steering wheel when making slow turns while going over rain ditch.

I purchased my mazda 6s in february of 2003.i have loved this car since the day i first saw it.in december of 2003, i began hearing grinding/moaning sounds from the front suspension area when making slow turns into a parking space.this happened approximately 3-4 weekly.i took my 6s in for it's regular service in december (oil change and tire rotation), and advised my dealership of the noise i was hearing.i was told that my one front tire was 2 lbs low, and that is what caused the noise.the vehicle only had 12000 miles at this time, and i knew the service tech was sugar coating the problem.on january 9, 2004, i was leaving work to go home when i had some serious problems with my vehicle on the way home.as i was getting on the expressway, i experienced severe vibration in the steering wheel and also under the driver seat, along with the vehicle would not accelerate over 3,000 rpm no matter how hard i pressed the accelerator. I was terrified to drive this vehicle home in this condition, but i had no choice at this time.by the way the vehicle was acting,i thought i either had a flat tire or there was a problem with my engine. I took my vehicle the next day to the dealer, which it took them 4 days to confirm the problem.the concluded that my front axle was faulty, and needed to be replaced.it took 10 days to get my vehicle back, and so far the issue has been resolved.i just wish the dealer would have taken me more seriously back in december and maybe this problem could have been avoided.*la

I own a2003 mazda 6.about a month ago i started hearing loud noises coming from the front axle area when i turn or drive over bumps. My brakes and tires are in good shape.i was first told that i needed new struts. A second inspection however revealed no problem with my struts.mechanic seems to be baffled as to what the problem is.my car is a v6 mazda 6s.5 speed.problem started at 82,000 miles.current mileage is about 84,000.

Takata recall - i have notified mazda at least 5 times that this car has been junked, yet i keep getting harassed with mailings.please stop!this is harassment!

My complaint is with the service center in medford ny mazda. They had my car for a total of 2 yrs. And could not fixthere was no accident.

I junked the car in january of 2018 due to having too many problems

Dt*: the contact stated that the vehicle accelerated on its own and on many occasions while driving 55 mph. This occurred even while applying the brakes.on one occasion, the vehicle almost hit a pedestrian. On another occasion, the vehicle ran through a red light.the vehicle was taken to the dealers who determined the problem was pertaining to the throttle body.the vehicle was repair however the problem persists.

I was driving on the interstate in ga going a little over 70mph in the fast lane and all of a sudden it kicked in to limp mode to about 10mph. I almost had a semi rear end me but was lucky enough to get out of the way just in time. I could turn the car off and it would reset it for awhile and then do it again. Then it finally got to the point it was doing it way too much. It turned out to be the throttle body. I learned that they know about it but wont recall it. Its been sitting for a year because they want $900.00 to fix it. I feel like i should drive it and let somebody hit me just to make it a recall so all the 1000s if not 10 of thousands of people who have the same problem will be able to get it fixed. Clearly that is a huge safety issue and should be a recall.

Car experienced unintended acceleration in stop-and-go traffic (0-30 mph) on 9/4/11 and 9/7/11. Tachometer needle was bouncing between 1 and 3. Car accelerated, and rpms increased, while on a level surface, without the gas pedal applied. Car fought against my efforts to slow down by breaking. Car stabilized upon reaching 40 mph. On 9/7/11, the mazda dealership attempted to correct the problem by cleaning the throttle body, but the intervention failed to correct the problem and it recurred on 9/7.this is a serious complaint with a high risk of injuries or death. Mazda owner internet message boards describe this problem repeatedly. Please investigate and mandate that mazda identify an immediate correction to this dangerous problem.

The vehicle acceleration cuts off and the dash board lights are all on. You will have to shut off the car and turn it back on before it will work correctly. Dealer said their diagnostic did not show any throttle sensor errors but my scan tool did.

The contact owns a 2003 mazda 6.while driving approximately 20 mph, the contact applied pressure to the brake pedal several times before the vehicle slowed down.the vehicle accelerated without the accelerator pedal being depressed.there were no warning indicators illuminated on the instrument panel.the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and it was concluded that the failure was related to a defective throttle; however, the vehicle began operating normally after the diagnosis.the technician recommended that the vehicle be taken to an authorized dealer.the vin was unknown.the failure and current mileages were 81,000. Updated 10/16/08.*lj

Was left stranded when check engine light and at light came on.car would not accelerate above 20 mph and had some jerking.had car towed in.service dept replaced throttle body and sensor.car still repeatedly has a jerk/hesitation when holding steady between the speeds of 40mph and 50mph.have brought the car in three times for the jerking/hesitation and the service mechanic does not know what else to do.they tried redownloading the computer which worked for about 1 week and then the jerking/hesitation proceeded.my service dept has spoken to customer service of california and they say they have not heard of any of these problems with any other mazda 6's and they have no idea what it is.i have also experienced a water leak in my vehicle about a month after i bought it which flooded my whole passenger side.carpet had to be replaced.my brakes have a squeaky, grinding noise when turning.my back seat seams are coming unsewed.will have to get the fabric replaced.my question is, "what's next?"i have already recieved legal advice and my lawyer thinks i have a pretty good case.if nothing can be done, then why not replace the vehicle.i am fed up with spending my time at the mazda dealership.i bought a new vechicle to stay away from mechanical difficulities.

Center defroster vent does not close completely.during humid or rainy conditions, the outside condensation can impare drivers view.if left unchecked the condensation can impare the middle 1/3 of the windshield.

Cannot turn off heat to windshield nor upper vents.excessive heat to face causes drowsiness and it is difficult to remain alert while feet are still cold.a continuing problem reported to two mazada dealers who were not helpful.

Windshield wipers do not go fast enough during heavy rains.the fastest speed is not enough to clear the water away for visibility.

Rear wheel studs.one of my rear wheel lug bolts is cracked up in the lug nut and another one broke off and is missing.this was an accident waiting to happen. I can't even get my car inspected because our local auto parts store does not carry this item.

Heard rubbing noise from therear end while driving. This was caused by18" inch rims rubbing on the wheels. This could cause the tires to wear out or blow out, per the dealership.these were after market rims but were on the vehicle at time of purchase. The rims model name was le collection lm.

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