We found the following complaints for MAZDA CX-5 (2013)
Read complaints for MAZDA CX-5 (2013)
The passenger seat air bag sensor failed and it cost me 1,000.00 to repair ,replace sensor car is less than 5years old. Also the paint clear coat has deteriorated badly dealer says nothing they can do about the paint
The passenger seat air bag sensor failed and it cost me 1,000.00 to repair ,replace sensor car is less than 5years old. Also the paint clear coat has deteriorated badly dealer says nothing they can do about the paint
The engine cuts when i put my car in park and push my start/stop button but the radio stays on after. I try over and over again to turn my car off fully by switching gear and turning the car on and off. This has happened daily for me. I noticed that this may have something to do with the electrical shortage of the ignition switch. It's very unsafe. It can cause battery drainage and can lead to other electrical issues.
On many occasions when the vehicle is stationary and i try to turn off the vehicle, it does not completely shut down. The radio and other electrical accessories and lights stay on.the vehicle does not recognize that it is in park.it has push start button. I have had to try repeadly to turn off and on to manage to turn it off.if you leave the vehicle in this state, it will not lock and the battery will drain which then becomes a safety issue. Because the car will not lock and the vehicle can get stolen. I have seen online many have this issue. The only way i am able to turn it off is too hold the shift on park and put pressure so the sensor will grab and push the power button at the same time. This should be recalled the sensor is defective.
When the vehicle is stationary and we try to turn off the vehicle, it does not completely shut down. The radio and other electrical accessories and lights stay on. It appears the vehicle does not recognize that it is in park.if you leave the vehicle in this state, it will not lock and the battery will drain which then becomes a safety issue, especially for young women driving this vehicle.
The electronic dashboard on my 2013 cx5 sport is not showing miles driven, when the car in turned on, while being driven, or stopped. Only the temperature outside is being shown.see attached photo.
When parking and putting the car in 'park', the car doesn't recognize that it's in the park position, and although the car shuts off, the electrical system stays on. This allows the battery to run down with stereo, lights, and fans all running, and even worse, would allow someone to steal the car if they were to get into it. I've done research and found hundreds of complaints about this issue online with the 2013 and 2014 model years.
I was traveling at approximately 65 mph on a highway in the right-hand lane when my tire pressure indicator, traction control indicator, low oil indicator, emergency check engine indicator light illuminated.the car appeared to be driving normally so i drove it to a nearby meineke shop where they ran diagnostics & reported they were getting error codes p0571 & p02507.they further advised they were not equipped to fix the problem and i had to go to a mazda dealership - the closest was 20 miles away. While on my way to the dealership, (again traveling approximately 65 mph on a highway in the right-hand lane), every light remained illuminated.approximately 10 minutes into the trip, my push-to-start button started flashing yellow, i lost power to the car and my brakes were not responsive.i coasted to the side of the road where i turned the car off, not knowing if it would turn back on.i allowed it to sit for about 5 minutes and attempted to turn it "on" via the push-to-start.it did turn on and allowed me to continue driving, (this time in the break-down lane at 25 mph with my hazard lights flashing).i made it to the dealership where they noted the check-engine light was on.diagnostics by the dealership / my invoice reveal the "cause" as "61 p0302xrx brake switch, r & r 71 w" and "1 lmin07*5 mini lp 7.5 fuse" with a part number of bn7n-66-490.the issue was repaired under warranty as the car is less than 3 years old / less than 25,000 miles.i was on vacation 8 hours from my home with this happened.i had 2 teenagers in the car during the first failure.this could have been really, really bad had i been traveling in the left lane as i believe i would have been rear ended when the car suddenly slowed down and i lost the ability to brake. The out-of-state dealership was wonderful; however i believe this make/model needs to be recalled for this issue.
When the vehicle is put into park and the ignition switch pressed, the vehicle will not completely turn off. The engine turns off but the entire electrical panel stays on. The only solution has been to turn the car back on, drive forward/backwards, and try to turn it off again. Sometimes, this has to be done up to 10 times before the vehicle will completely shut off. This has been a very big problem because you cannot leave or lock your vehicle. Mazda dealerships are charging $80 - $120 just to diagnose the problem. It turned out to be a faulty gear sensor switch which is not allowing the vehicle to go completely into the park position. The cost for parts and labor is approx. $400.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx5. The contact stated while attempting to shut off the vehicle, the vehicle failed to turn off due to the transmission not being fully in park. The contact stated that there was an unknown flashing red warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not yet diagnosed. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and the contact was awaiting a response. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.
Wires are burning can't tell from where n smiling gas 2013 mazda cx5
[xxx]the engine does not idle.when i would slow to stop for a stop light or stop sign, th engine would quit and require restarting the engine.the check engine light remained illuminated continuously, and, the red battery light would illuminate.a service station diagnosed the problem as either an old battery, and/or, an alternator.ourisman mazda, 801 rockville pike, rockville, maryland 20852 [301-424-7800] advised me this morning, saturday, 01/13/2018, that:1.)the problem is the mass air flow filter that required replacement.2.)there are no recalls for mazda mass air flow sensor failures.3.) total parts and labor are approximately, $575.00.4.)the dealership said that the 5 years / 100,000 warranty did not apply to the mass air flow filter.5.)when i brought the car to ourisman mazda, on 01/12/2018, to have the problem diagnosed.i was asked when and where i last filled the gas tank, (as if a mass air flow failure mimics contaminated fuel. The car was purchased, new, in december 2012,, and has approx.., 75,000 miles of urban/ suburban driving, not under dusty conditions.the risk is that the car could unexpectedly stall and with no way to recover quickly.parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
3 times since pcm recall was completed- i have been driving on the highway 65mph, suddenly feel reduction in power, check engine light, low tire pressure lights and tractions stabilty warning lights come on.when the car is turned off, and restarted lights go out except check engine and car drives normal. By the time i get to pepboys they are unable to find a cause and the check engine light goes off.
Failure to start. When i took it to the dealership they said the issue was that i needed a new break switch and i had corroded wires on the right side. I have a video of my issue. Https://youtu.be/dfywagvkavuthe dealership said that these were known issues but no recalls have been issued. The vehicle was stationary at time of issue. I may need to have the dealership re print my invoice, i didn't see it in my files. My vehicle is a 2013 and this issue was in 2016. Wires should not be corroded this quickly, my warrenty did not cover the wires. This issue seems dangerous to me.
My vehicle does not want to turn off when placed in park. The car is fully in the park position, but the start push button is illuminated with a red light. The power is still on, and the car beeps when door is open. I can only get the power to turn off, after repeatedly tapping the gear shift left, towards the p symbol. It is already fully seated in the park position, but this finally causes the light to go off and the car turns off. Always hoping the power did not turn back on while away from the car. Is this a fire hazard? i will not park my car in the garage as i am concerned it may overheat the wiring, electrical components, etc...??? i have noticed similar complaints for this vehicle on this website also.
While driving on the highway, the vehicle very suddenly decelerated (from about 55 to 40), almost as if it slipped back a couple of gears- it was a jarring and immediate loss of power, and i could hear the engine strain as if it was forced into a lower gear. The traction control system and tire pressure monitoring dashboard lights came on, and the check engine light began flashing. I lost ability to accelerate above maybe 1k or 1.5k rpms. When i slowed the car down and drove to a place i could safely pull over, the car was sputtering and trembling aggressively with each push of the gas pedal. When i finally did stop, i powered off the vehicle and checked the tires - all of which were fine. I turned the car back on and it behaved normally, all the error lights were cleared. I even drove it quite some distance to the dealer for maintenance. The service center said they have never heard of this type of incident. A quick web search, however, indicates that others have experienced this very same issue. This is a new (6 months) 2013 mazda cx-5 with around 6000 miles.
When driving approximately 65mph or sometimes less the tire pressure, traction control, emergency light comes on. The car seems to lose power and shut down. It happens countless time twice with my two-year-old daughter on the highway. When i take it to the mechanic they run diagnostics test and can't pick up any codes. Because its not duplicating any issue they return the car to me after they reset all the computer. But the issue is still not resolved. I would lose power to the car and my brakes are sometimes not responsive. I would coast with my emergency light on until i can stop my car. Sometime my hazards light would frequently flash at a fast speed than stop. I took it to two mazda dealership to see if they can have resolved the issue but they cannot duplicated what going on. I did some research on my own and found countless complaints about the same issue i'm having and no mechanic can figure out the issue this car is junk.this have started the first week on dec. 2016 it has been in two shop over the past 4 month. The first shop i took it to had it for a whole month and the second shop had it for two week. At one point when i was told my car was fix i came to pick it up. The car would not start at all it was not even reading my keys. The car does not have 100k miles on it. I don't do a lot of driving. This is hazardous
Check engine, tps, and tcs lights come on and vehicle starts bucking and decelerating. Pulled over, disconnected the battery. Dashboard lights and bucking are gone at restart. Issue occurred two more times in a span of a couple days, so i took it to a shop. P0101 and p061b problems present. Maf sensor seems fine. Continues malfunctioning after oil change and inspection. Taking to the dealership for reflashing.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact stated that while driving approximately 5 mph, the vehicle suddenly stalled and smoke began to fill the interior cabin of the vehicle. The contact noticed flames coming from the electrical fuse panel that was under the dashboard. The fire melted the dashboard as the interior became engulfed in flames. The fire department reported to the scene to extinguish the fire and a report was filed. The dealer was made aware of the failure and advised the contact that a regional manager would be sent to inspect the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 10,000.
Driving in city setting when all of a sudden the traction light came on for the car and at the same time, i felt that the power train was slipping, and then it gave out completely. Pressed on the gas peddle and got no acceleration. Tire pressure light also came on.stopped car turned off and restarted.tried to drive the car, but after about a mile the same issue arose and this time the at light and check engine light came on.had it towed to dealer where they worked on it for about a week.at 34000 mile the same think just happened again.driving along a country road at about 35 miles per hour it happened the second time.having it towed to the dealer for a second time.
Several months now, i'm having to turn my car back on to turn the radio off and completely shut the car down. This has been going on since the summer of this year. I have to crank it up, put it out of park into drive, and put it back in drive. After that, it turns off. I have push to start and had the car for four years pre-owned.yesterday, my sister and i were stranded because my car didn't start. The dealership said it was the air intake oxygen sensor. They replaced it plus they put in a new car battery. My husband and i thought it was weird, but now i'm wondering if the car itself is completely shutting down when i turn it off. Now, this is making me scared to drive the car. The repair cost me 490 something.
The ignition on my 2013 mazda cx-5 would not turn off after putting the vehicle into park. The engine would start with the gearshift lever in park, but once i drove to a destination, pulled into a parking lot, and put the gearshift into park, the vehicle would not entirely turn off. It would take several attempts to manipulate the gearshift around to get the car to turn off. The vehicle's electrical system would still be active, including radio, dash lights, headlights, and other electrical systems would all remain on. After contacting a local mazda dealership in town, a "park safety switch" in the gearshift lever is being affected, and it is a known problem affecting mazda cx-5 vehicles. However, there have not been any recalls issued for this problem. Thanks to a quick google search such as "mazda cx-5 will not turn off", i found out about this issue. There are several youtube videos, posts on reddit and mazda forums discussing this issue. Having a vehicle with an issue where you cannot turn the car off because the car "thinks" that the vehicle is not in park is unsafe and a safety hazard and can cause an accident or worse.
Car sometimes will not turn off auxiliary power when put in park and engine is turned off.radio and auxiliary functions continue to run.i need to start engine, move car back and forth two or more times, put in park and push ignition button again to totally shut off power.this may happen several times a day, then not occur for weeks at a time.my car is always parked on a level surface when this happens, i am positive the car is in park, and type of weather doesn't seem to be an issue.it seems to be a common problem with mazda vehicles, and i have seen a lot of posts on the internet of people having the same problem.my mazda dealer told my mechanic that they have had several cars in one week come in with this complaint.
While driving, the engine appears to stall and the car is not drivable.the car feels as though it has shut off, and no acceleration is possible.i am forced to coast to the shoulder, at which point i must turn the car off and restart in order for the car to be drivable.while this is happening, several indicator lights are illuminated, including the tire pressure monitor, check engine, at, and traction control indicators.upon restart, the check engine remains illuminated.this same incident has recurred 3x since i purchased the car in april 2012, including may 2013, may 2014 and august 2014.each time it has been serviced by the dealership.i have just filed a complaint with mazda.
After pressing the "on/off" button, the car will not shut completely off (radio/lights/accessories remain on). To resolve, you have to essentially jam the shifter back and forth, rather strongly (out of park) before trying to turn it off again. This happens more than it doesn't and at some point, i am concerned it wont shut off. This happens when stationary. When looking for possible reasons why and solutions, there are a lot of message boards revealing this as an issue, but no recall has been generated.what would it take to get a recall in place? this has been happening upwards of over a year at least.
The 1st incident was about 3 months after purchasing the car in 2012, driving up my block the car all of a sudden lost power and all the dash lights came on. I could not go faster than 5mph and drove back home. The next day car ran fine and i brought it for service where they found nothing wrong and no errors on the computer. I have had this car for almost to years and it is very unsafe. The engine constantly rev's for no reason and i have to apply the brakes to slow down. Then frequently when you want to accelerate especially entering a highway, the car just does not speed up or driving on the highway and the car suddenly slows down by itself. The car frequently feels like you cannot stop when applying brakes that if i had to stop quickly i would crash! many times sitting at a light with foot on brake, i hear a thump and the car surges forward, luckily it has not caused me to hit another car or person. The tire pressure light came on and would not go offabout a year ago, i brought it in for service where they reset it, within a month it was back on again and never shuts off unless reset. I am actually going to look for a new non mazda car this weekend and trading this car in because it is just too unsafe to drive. This really is a shame!!
I am often unable to turn car off using the keyless ignition switch.the engine will stop but all interior power remains on, and i must restart the engine, shift gears, return to park and try again.sometimes it takes 5-8 tries to kill power.this is a safety hazard as it could leave you stranded with a dead battery.i've seen many similar complaints on your website, but mazda claims no ownership of the problem and have not issued a recall.how can you rectify this situation?
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the vehicle jerked with the check engine, traction control, and tire pressure monitor system warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to lester glenn mazda (101 nj-37 e, toms river, nj 08753, (888)422-5041) however, the mechanic was unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and referred the contact to the local dealer. The failure mileage was 2,000.*dt*dt
Door locks failing. Passenger side door lock has failed twice:once due to lock arm misaligned and now has just failed again. The rear hatch has failed four times within month. Have had dealer replace door lock, battery and rear control board. The only way to get into hatch is with fob, as there is no key slot so unable to open rear hatch. The car is in florida and is parked outside.
When turning off eng, via pressing the electronic start/stop button. The radio stays on. Unless you press the button to turn on the accessories, then pressing brake down, then moving the automatic shift lever from park to drive, to park again and pressing the start/stop button again, then the radio will turn off.this has been happening for many months.
After placing the car in park, the electrical system does not shut down. It stays on and drains the battery. Happens on hot days (80 plus). Danger of being stranded. Part kdy0-46-040. Http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-24809172479195/kdy0-46-040.pdf
After you shut the car engine off the ignition is still on. While in park i have looked this up and found out that it's a worn out switch. In these cars this had happened a while back but it's getting worse like every time now
For the past 5 months my car will appear to have shut down while driving. I was driving on city streets going about 15 - 45 mph.i work from home or go to the office twice a week. I drive my kids to school during the week. I don't do much commuting. All electrical components shut down then reboot within seconds, and the car makes beeping sounds like i just started the car. The car will not stop or slow down, but if i come to a complete stop at a light, the car will be very slow to accelerate but i can get it back up to the speed limit after a very slow start.i have called aaa on one occasion and took it to a shop on another occasion. They both say it is battery related due to the wrong batter being installed but it is the battery size in the system of an orielys auto parts store. Every time i replace the battery and the issue appears to go away for a couple weeks to a month. The last battery replacement i purchased a stronger batter than in their system as per the advisement from the auto shop. It seemed to fix it again but after a month the car did the same thing.
This evening i was running 2 errands less than 3 miles from house. As i drove from the first errand and arrived at the second, the malfunction indicators illuminated: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0a4bjzana9e/umf10emozji/aaaaaaaaahk/aklxhahwfsw/s1600/2012-12-11_cx-5.jpgi parked at my second errand, turned the car off, and decided to let it sit. When i came back and started it, only the check engine light was on. With the vehicle full of purchases, temperature near 30 degrees, i opted to try and make it the 2.3 miles home.i got 2 traffic lights when the instrument cluster lit up again. The cx-5 seemed to drive ok, so i continued home. As i made the second to last turn -- about 1 mile out -- the automatic transmission indicator blinked out (no longer said 'd'), then the speedometer/tachometer/odometer stopped reporting (all read 0). I made it to my driveway, but was unable to turn it of until i held the start/stop button about 20 seconds until it turned off (this was the solution when i had problems with the smart key in my previous mazda).mazda installed a data recorded in my vehicle several weeks ago, as they continue to investigate problems with the skyactive automatic transmission i reported days after taking delivery in may:http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oohcdcyekly/umgimooun5i/aaaaaaaaako/o_axhysuz74/s1600/img_1293.jpgthat device should hopefully provide additional diagnostic information to them. It was towed to my nearest dealership, whose service bays it is no stranger to.
Car issueon may 6th 2018, i first experienced an issue with my vehicle not fully turning off the car while in park. I have a push button start on my car and after i put it in park, i pressed the push button to shut it off and it would not turn off. I want to exit the vehicle and it was beeping at me as if i did not turn off my car. And the light on the push button was orange. The car was in a state as if i was using the battery but did not have my engine on or ac. I put my foot on the brake, pressed the button to try to shut it off, and it turned my car back on then i pressed the foot on the brake to shut it off and it went back to using the battery only. I tried many different ways to shut off my vehicle and i still could not. I attempted this at least 5 times before my vehicle finally shut off. I put my car in park, go to shut off my car and it will not fully shut off. I attempted to shut it off seven times before i finally put my car in reverse put it in park and then my car shut off. I called my mazda dealership, and ask them what i would do in the future to fix this issue and they said they have never heard of this issue before. I looked up on the internet, and there's hundreds of people that have had this issue and all of them say that mazda says they've never heard of the issue. They urged me to come in, have my car diagnosed, and then they could try to see what is wrong with it. Because my car is no longer under warranty, i would be paying for something that might be a recall issue. How are there hundreds of people, blogs everywhere with the same issues as myself and no one has ever heard of it? this is now happening to me on a regular basis. I love this vehicle but i'm seconds away from getting rid of it. I've had enough. This is definitely a defect in the manufacturing of the vehicles.
When stopped and with the engine and all lights turned off, the car will drain the battery and not be able to be started.this has resulted in being stranded in many places.in fact, i now carry a rechargable battery pack to keep from being stranded once a month.
Ijust purchased this vehicle used from a car dealer. I get it home and find this out. Seems it is a common issue and complaint online with a fix of over $200 in parts and labor. (all our vehicles are mazdas. I purposely bought a mazda because i believed they were reliable. I am sorely disappointed there is not a recall for this. When car is put in park and turned off it will not shut off.auxillary power keeps running not allowing the car to lock. Radio turns back on.the only remedy is to continually try to jiggle the gear shift or take car out of park and back in.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact stated that the service engine warning indicator illuminated and the vent functions failed for the air conditioning and heating. The vehicle was taken to a dealer for further diagnostic testing. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not yet been notified. The approximate failure mileage was 48,541. ..updated 08/31/17 heater core failure and faulty coolant.updated 9/27/18
I have 96,757 milers.after i come to a complete stop, i put the gear in park, and i push the ignition button to turn off the car, my cx-5 does not shut down completely.the engine is off but all other electrical system such as radio/navigation remains on and i am not able to activate the car alarm after i exit my car.orange light remains on the "start button" and i have to restart the engine and change the gear from park to r, n, or d and shift it back to park to shut down completely.sometimes i have to repeat this step two to three times.this problem began shortly after my 5 year 60k extended warranty expired.
Possible defective shifter switch causing ignition button to not allow vehicle to shut down completely unless you fidget the shifter back and forth or shifting through all of the gears to get it to properly shut down. This occurs randomly while stationary trying to shut down the vehicle, during parking. Has been going on for a few months and is getting worse, possibly near completely faulting out.
The shifter position switch is defective.it does not always shut off the electrical system when the shifter is placed into park and the car is turned off.the electrical system, the radio, lights, etc, remain on even though the car has been turned off.apparently it caused by a small part that was made of rubber that dries out and breaks down.it is replaced by a plastic part that resists wear and tear and lasts far longer.mazda is aware of the problem but refuses to replace the defective part for free.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to shut-off while depressing the start/stop button. After pressing the start/stop button to shut the vehicle off, the engine turned off however, the electronics inside the vehicle and the exterior lights remained activated. The cause of the failure was not determined. The local dealer was not notified. The manufacturer was contacted but no assistance was offered. The failure mileage was 95,000.the consumer stated the vehicle was taken to the dealer and advised to pay $395 for repairs being as though the consumer was not at fault.
The engine is not turning completely off when parking. You put the shifter in park and press the starter button off, it is staying on. The radio and any other accessories are staying on. I am having to re-start the vehicle multiple times and re-positioning the shifter in park for vehicle to actually turn off. In addition to draining the battery, i am concerned about other damage it could possibly cause. Also, there's the possibility of being alone and stranded somewhere. It's clearly a safety issue that i believe they are aware of.
Car will not power off when in park.battery will drain if not very cognizant of the system actually shutting off.apparently is is part kdy0-46-040 that is located in the gear box that is wearing out.my car has only 83,000 miles currently.it happens multiple times before it will successfully power off.sometimes you have to drive it around to finally get it to recognize park so it will fully turn off.
I push the button to turn the car off.the motor turns off but the accessories stay on (radio, dash lights, etc.) turn the car back on, move the shift lever and then turn it off again.sometimes this works, other times it takes numerous tries before it will actually shut off.some people have gotten out of their car without realizing this happened and came back to a dead battery. This could be a definite safety hazard - such as someone stranded late at night with a dead battery because of this issue.mazda says they are aware of it but you have to issue a recall so we can get our cars fixed.it is apparently a sensor under the shifter that is the issue.if you check the website: https://www.cargurus.com/cars/discussion-t49115_ds799849 you will see how many people are having his problem.please issue a recall on this part so that something can be done before someone is hurt after being stranded due to this faulty part.please make mazda responsible for putting a faulty part in our vehicles.
This is a "push button" start vehicle.when you push the button to turn off the engine, the electrical components / accessories remain on instead of turning off with the engine.there is no key to remove so you cannot manually turn off the electrical components / accessories.even upon exiting the vehicle and locking it, the electrical systems remain "on" even though the engine is off.the vehicle is stationary when this happens.the gear shift shows park.it seems that some type of sensor is not properly communicating to shut itself down.
Car fails to startx 2 but then starts.briefly, accelerate car as i merge on the fwy. Car begins decelerating, lurching so i struggle to steer tothe side of the fwy. Many warning lights flashing, no brakes, no steering ability. Turn of car. Try but unable to turn on car. Call towed. Mechanics say car starts right up and nothing wrong. Funky other little things like, i open rear hatch to put item in car (keys are in house). Attempt to close hatch but it won't latch. Obtain remote and try to use it to engage latch. No luck.last month, can't start car. Call aaa, technician starts car but says to replace batteries in remote. Take to dealer. Batteries fine and no findings. 4/17/14 start car and proceed to back up. All warning lights are on. Unable to steer or depress brakes. Turn off car. One hour later, car starts and all is copacetic.
On may 6th 2018, i first experienced an issue with my vehicle not fully turning off the car while in park. I have a push button start on my car and after i put it in park, i pressed the push button to shut it off and it would not turn off. I want to exit the vehicle and it was beeping at me as if i did not turn off my car. And the light on the push button was orange. The car was in a state as if i was using the battery but did not have my engine on or ac. I put my foot on the brake, pressed the button to try to shut it off, and it turned my car back on then i pressed the foot on the brake to shut it off and it went back to using the battery only. I tried many different ways to shut off my vehicle and i still could not. I attempted this at least 5 times before my vehicle finally shut off. Today, it happened again. I put my car in park, went to shut off my car and it would not shut off. I attempted to shut it off seven times before i finally put my car in reverse put it in park and then my car shut off. I called my mazda dealership, and ask them what i would do in the future to fix this issue and they said they have never heard of this issue before. I looked up on the internet, and there's hundreds of people that have had this issue and all of them say that mazda says they've never heard of the issue. They urged me to come in, have my car diagnosed, and then they could try to see what is wrong with it. Because my car is no longer under warranty, i would be paying for something that might be a recall issue. How are there hundreds of people with the same issues as myself and no one has ever heard of it? note: i am canadian because it wouldn't give me the choice of a canadian province, i made up the postal code to coincide with alabama. Please let me know where i would file this in canada. Km were converted to miles
After fixing the electrical problem with the car not fully turning off, the car suddenly died in traffic and wouldn't restart. Replacing mass air sensor, o2 sensor, and plugs, the car will die in traffic when coming to a stop, but restarts immediately. The code says this is a pcm problem. Internet research says this is not uncommon resulting in safety recalls in other year models. 2013 should also be recalled.
Since last recall repair my cx-5 is experiencing major problems. It will randomly not start. I get in and depress brake pedal, but start button will not light green and car won't start, even after changing battery in key fob. The dashboard lights (all of them) will come on and flash, then go away. The other issue is that the transmission will not engage after car has started. Car is started and in park. I depress the brake and try to put the car into gear (drive) but the shifter refuses to move at all. Pumping the brake does not work, depressing the brake all the way to the floor does not work. There is not a particular sequence of actions that will get the car to go into gear. The only remedy i have found is to turn the car off and let it sit for an extended period of time. When driving the car after this has happened, if i use reverse and then put it into drive, the car jumps forward without my foot being on the gas pedal and then the lights on the dashboard for tire and tcs come on.
When i press the button to turn off the car, the accessories do not turn off.the radio continues to play, etc.i have to restart the car and turn it off again.i repeat until the car finally turns off.i leave the radio on in case i forget and my battery runs down. From researching i have found it is a bad shifter position switch and everyone is having the same problem.scareymy car was parked at the time.
When i try to turn off the car, it remains on. I then have to shift gears to r then back to p and turn it off again to completely shut the car off. It happens every time.
This issue has occurred multiple times where i put my car into park (therefore being stationary), press the button to turn off the car and the car does not fully shut down. It appears to be a safety issue with the steering sensor not full recognizing that the car is in park and therefore not shutting off the car completely. In order to get the car to completely shut off, the car has to be shifted from drive to park/actively turning on and off the car sometimes as many as 5-6 times in order for it to fully shut down. I have read dozens of reports of other mazda owners experiencing the same problem. Cars being unintentionally left on is definitely a safety issue that needs to be looked into.
After driving and putting the car in park and trying to turn the car off the car radio and dash indicators remain on.i am not able to completely turn the car off without putting it in reverse and backing it up some and then driving forward again and putting it in park and pushing the power button again.just trying to restart the car or shift it to drive and back to turn the power completely off does not work. This incomplete powering off of the vehicle happens very randomly.
After parking and pressing the start/stop button to turn the engine off and exit the vehicle, the engine would turn off but the radio/lights, etc. All stayed on. To resolve, i had to turn the vehicle back on, put it into drive/reverse/park and press the start/stop button again for it to completely turn off like it's supposed to. I was stopped in the parking lot in front of my work, flat concrete area, weather was sunny and 90 degrees.
The traction control light came on and the tire pressure monitor light began to flash. It felt like car had downshifted a couple of gears. I lost forward power in all gears (engine revved, but no power to wheels through transmission). Fortunately we were just turning into an alley, so was able to park car off a main street. Finally were able to get it to go into reverse to park it briefly. Turned car off then back on again and all lights on dash were normal and transmission would engage in forward gears again. Drove the 7 miles to my house with no problems. Called dealer and the shop says they have never heard of such a problem. Could have been bad if this happened in rush hour traffic.
While driving vehicle on frwy, started losing power fast. As if the engine turned off. At light, traction light, stability control light and check engine light came on. Pulled to side of frwy turned car off, sat there in disbelief. I then turned the vehicle back on - only check engine light stayed on. Had power as if nothing had happen diag found code p1738, p0847. Galpin mazda called tech line and they were told to perform a reflash to the pcm.this happen again about 2 months later. But this time all warning lights turned off after restarting. I will mention it on my next service visit.
The traction light automatically kicks on even if there is no bad weather. The lights flash on and the car becomes sluggish as if the traction is on.i have to pull over to turn the car off and restart. The engine light stays on for a least 24 hours. This has happened at least 5 times. Last time it happened 12/14/2017 and happened on highway and i couldn't do anything until i got off the highway.
I was driving at the listed speed on the new jersey turnpike. Without warning, the vehicle went from sixth gear to fourth, rapidly losing speed in the far left lane. The tire pressure indicator light came on flashing, and the traction control light came on solid yellow. I pulled the vehicle onto the shoulder to check the tires, per the indicator, and noticed none of the tires was deflated. When i restarted the vehicle, the tire pressure and traction lights were solid yellow, along with the engine and "at" transmission light. While there was no noticeable effect on vehicle operation once restarted, i could not use the select-a-gear feature of my transmission. I was told at the dealership where i brought the vehicle that there were issues with the transmission control module, and that software updates were required. The vehicle was returned several days later, with the warning lights resolved, but told that they were uncertain as to whether it was a definitive fix. There have been no recurrences since the original incident.
While driving on the left lane of a busy los angeles highway at approximately 55mph, all of a sudden the accelerator stopped responding and my speed dropped rapidly. At the same time, the traction control and tire pressure lights turned on. Immediately, i turned on my hazard lights and pulled into the right lane. Unfortunately, i was in a tunnel with no shoulder. When the vehicle's forward momentum ran out, i came to a complete stop after cruising for approximately 100 feet. After my vehicle stopped, i was able to accelerate again and pulled off the highway. I turned the engine off, checked all tires (all looked normal), and restarted the engine. The warning lights were all off at this point, and the vehicle responded normally. This was a disturbing and dangerous situation. I will describe it at my 10,000-mile service, but it does not seem like others who have had this problem have been able to solicit an adequate response from mazda.
During a long holiday trip, while driving down us 19 at 65 mph over the new river gorge bridge the engine started revving / surging, with rpms going up and down, when the car suddenly lost power and decelerated rapidly.the traction control system (tcs) light was on solid and the tire pressure system (tps) light was flashing.we had just left a rest area and were less than a mile down the road from where we pulled onto the highway, just getting up to speed.i may have just turned on the cruise control, but i cannot remember.the weather was warm and dry.the car had about 52,700 miles on it.i put on the flashers and prayed that momentum would carry me over the bridge to where i could pull off, that the semi-tractor-trailer truck barreling down on me would get in the other lane soon, and that no one would rear end me.my mom and my husband were in the car with me.we turned off the car, walked around the outside to look at the tires, looked through the manual, and tried to decide what to do.after about 15 minutes, i started it up again, there were no indicators lit up on the dash, and the car seemed to be back to normal, so we continued our trip.since then we have driven about 800 miles and it has not happened again.i haven't had a chance to contact the dealer yet.
While on a very busy road, all of a sudden the accelerator stopped working and my speed began to drop rapidly. At the same time, the traction control warning light and tire pressure warning light came on. It was as if the car had completely lost power. I was able to coast to the side of the road and turn the car completely off. I got out and checked all of the tires and they were fine. When i turned the car back on, the warning lights did not come back on and the car ran normally.
When driving approximately 65mph or sometimes less the tire pressure, traction control, emergency light comes on. The car seems to lose power and shut down. It happens countless time twice with my two-year-old daughter on the highway. When i take it to the mechanic they run diagnostics test and can't pick up any codes. Because its not duplicating any issue they return the car to me after they reset all the computer. But the issue is still not resolved. I would lose power to the car and my brakes are sometimes not responsive. I would coast with my emergency light on until i can stop my car. Sometime my hazards light would frequently flash at a fast speed than stop. I took it to two mazda dealership to see if they can have resolved the issue but they cannot duplicated what going on. I did some research on my own and found countless complaints about the same issue i'm having and no mechanic can figure out the issue this car is junk.this have started the first week on dec. 2016 it has been in two shop over the past 4 month. The first shop i took it to had it for a whole month and the second shop had it for two week. At one point when i was told my car was fix i came to pick it up. The car would not start at all it was not even reading my keys. The car does not have 100k miles on it. I don't do a lot of driving. This is hazardous
Was driving when car shut down for a second and traction control, tire light and check engine light came on. I had no power and the rear tires were not spinning. I put the car in park and shut it off. I started it back up and only the tire light and engine light were on and i had power. I was able to drive another 30 miles before having the same problem.
Running errands on way home on the highway while on ahill suddenly incurred loss of power, check engine and driving stability warning lights came on. Pressed gas and no change in speed. Speed dropped from 45 to 20 and had to move to shoulder.other than loss of power everything else functioning normally.managed to return home via back roads and avoidance of hills.speed improved somewhat once completed climbing hill but as neared home car's speed topped out at 20 mph, total trip 4 miles or so.once in driveway turned off car and then started again neither the check engine light nor the driving stability came on again.car well maintained first time this has happened in 2 years of ownership. Will be taking it in for service and see if problem can be diagnosed.
I was traveling at approximately 65 mph on a highway in the right-hand lane when my tire pressure indicator, traction control indicator, low oil indicator, emergency check engine indicator light illuminated.the car appeared to be driving normally so i drove it to a nearby meineke shop where they ran diagnostics & reported they were getting error codes p0571 & p02507.they further advised they were not equipped to fix the problem and i had to go to a mazda dealership - the closest was 20 miles away. While on my way to the dealership, (again traveling approximately 65 mph on a highway in the right-hand lane), every light remained illuminated.approximately 10 minutes into the trip, my push-to-start button started flashing yellow, i lost power to the car and my brakes were not responsive.i coasted to the side of the road where i turned the car off, not knowing if it would turn back on.i allowed it to sit for about 5 minutes and attempted to turn it "on" via the push-to-start.it did turn on and allowed me to continue driving, (this time in the break-down lane at 25 mph with my hazard lights flashing).i made it to the dealership where they noted the check-engine light was on.diagnostics by the dealership / my invoice reveal the "cause" as "61 p0302xrx brake switch, r & r 71 w" and "1 lmin07*5 mini lp 7.5 fuse" with a part number of bn7n-66-490.the issue was repaired under warranty as the car is less than 3 years old / less than 25,000 miles.i was on vacation 8 hours from my home with this happened.i had 2 teenagers in the car during the first failure.this could have been really, really bad had i been traveling in the left lane as i believe i would have been rear ended when the car suddenly slowed down and i lost the ability to brake. The out-of-state dealership was wonderful; however i believe this make/model needs to be recalled for this issue.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the vehicle jerked with the check engine, traction control, and tire pressure monitor system warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to lester glenn mazda (101 nj-37 e, toms river, nj 08753, (888)422-5041) however, the mechanic was unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and referred the contact to the local dealer. The failure mileage was 2,000.*dt*dt
This issue has occurred multiple times where i put my car into park (therefore being stationary), press the button to turn off the car and the car does not fully shut down. It appears to be a safety issue with the steering sensor not full recognizing that the car is in park and therefore not shutting off the car completely. In order to get the car to completely shut off, the car has to be shifted from drive to park/actively turning on and off the car sometimes as many as 5-6 times in order for it to fully shut down. I have read dozens of reports of other mazda owners experiencing the same problem. Cars being unintentionally left on is definitely a safety issue that needs to be looked into.
While my wife was driving to drop our children off to go to work all of a sudden the check engine, low tire and traction control light came on. When all lights came on the engine lost power and could not go above 20 mph.
Driving down the freeway, the automatic transaxle light, traction control, and engine light all came on, and car slowed down and it was like it wasn't in gear. I pulled to the side of the road and had to shut it off and restart it four time before all the lights went off and i could drive it again. The check engine light stayed on, but in ran fine.this also happen about a month ago in town, i only had to shut off and restart once, and all the lights went off and its been running fine since until yesterday. I'm taking it to the dealer in the morning.
On 2 separate occasions (5/27/2017 and 6/15/2017) while on the freeway while in stop & go traffic, my vehicle suddenly seemed to lose power, and unable to go more than 20 mph. The tire pressure, traction control, emergency light comes on. Both times i have safely been able to make it to the shoulder. The first time, i had my car towed to auto repair shop. Their $300 diagnosis reported nothing wrong with the car. The second time, i turned my car off & on again on the shoulder. The check engine light stayed on and i and was able to drive to my destination. The check engine is now back off, but i have dropped it off at the same auto repair shop, and they are replacing an air flow sensor in hopes that this resolves the problem. This will cost us another $300. Both times i had my 18 month old in my car. I am deeply concerned.
Put my truck in gear d for drive start driving and at 5mph its making a noise like a standard transmission do when you are in the wrong gear such as too low. At first i thought it was my radio because it was sizzling and the read out that the station show was no longer showing the song or artist. So i switch to another station and is still made the sound so i put in a cd and listen to it and i had to turn volume up in order not to hear the sound. The faster i drove the louder it got.i only have 28,000 miles so transmission shouldn't be bad. I had an oil change about 2 weeks ago with tire rotation and fluids checked and all was fine.taking it to shop.
I bought the car certified pre-owned with 20k miles. After a few months i was at an intersection, once the cross traffic cleared i took my foot off the brake and pressed the accelerator. The car just glided, it had no power for 5 seconds. I repeatedly pressed the the gas pedal but nothing happened until after 5 seconds when the revolutions instantly increased to around 5000 rpm. This was the first time this happened at around 27,000 miles. I figured it was a small glitch. Through my 3 years of ownership (putting on 57,000 miles) this has been occurring more and more frequently. I am very hesitant when crossing intersections and attempting lane changes. This now occurs at least twice a month while in traffic. The other issue occurs when i shift from park/reverse to drive, while on level ground, the car suddenly jerks forward and revolutions increase suddenly, with my food either on the brake or as soon as i remove it but before i press the gas pedal. Another issue is while i'm accelerating, at 20-25 mph as the automatic transmission is shifting from either 2 to 3rd or 3rd to 4th (i haven't been able to determine yet). When transmission misses the gear change it causes the revolutions to suddenly increase for a fraction of a second. When the gear is engaged it is accompanied by a clunky slamming sound. This happens pretty quickly and has not yet made the car lose speed or handling.after 3 years of ownership with recorded routine scheduled maintenance completed and standard commuter use of 60% highway and 40% city style driving i don't feel the transmission and/or engine are safe or reliable. I have taken it to the dealer since it is still under limited power-train warranty but they just tell me that is normal for economy style cars. I can not let my parents borrow the car because i feel these issues might surprise them while in traffic and lead to a collision.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact stated that the service engine warning indicator illuminated and the vent functions failed for the air conditioning and heating. The vehicle was taken to a dealer for further diagnostic testing. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer had not yet been notified. The approximate failure mileage was 48,541. ..updated 08/31/17 heater core failure and faulty coolant.updated 9/27/18
During a long holiday trip, while driving down us 19 at 65 mph over the new river gorge bridge the engine started revving / surging, with rpms going up and down, when the car suddenly lost power and decelerated rapidly.the traction control system (tcs) light was on solid and the tire pressure system (tps) light was flashing.we had just left a rest area and were less than a mile down the road from where we pulled onto the highway, just getting up to speed.i may have just turned on the cruise control, but i cannot remember.the weather was warm and dry.the car had about 52,700 miles on it.i put on the flashers and prayed that momentum would carry me over the bridge to where i could pull off, that the semi-tractor-trailer truck barreling down on me would get in the other lane soon, and that no one would rear end me.my mom and my husband were in the car with me.we turned off the car, walked around the outside to look at the tires, looked through the manual, and tried to decide what to do.after about 15 minutes, i started it up again, there were no indicators lit up on the dash, and the car seemed to be back to normal, so we continued our trip.since then we have driven about 800 miles and it has not happened again.i haven't had a chance to contact the dealer yet.
My car bucks loses exhilaration and will keep bucking until i pull over turn ignition off.city streets & highway. Started happening one year ago at 32,000 mile. Dash board lights up and engine light stays on! then resetsafter a threw trips !! mazda dealer has tried to fix !so far no answer.i am afraid of my mazda. I do not feel safe when i drive! i have 42,000 mile now.
Initially the check engine light came on with no notice drivability concern.used obd scanner and retrieved two codes: p0172 running rich, p013a downstream o2 slow switch.two days later the car stalled two time, both times right after vehicle stopped completely with brake pedal applied.stopped driving the vehicle for severe safety concern and will send the car to the dealership.vehicle has not been modified, and has 80k miles, 6.5 yrs of service, with regular scheduled maintenance.
This evening i was running 2 errands less than 3 miles from house. As i drove from the first errand and arrived at the second, the malfunction indicators illuminated: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0a4bjzana9e/umf10emozji/aaaaaaaaahk/aklxhahwfsw/s1600/2012-12-11_cx-5.jpgi parked at my second errand, turned the car off, and decided to let it sit. When i came back and started it, only the check engine light was on. With the vehicle full of purchases, temperature near 30 degrees, i opted to try and make it the 2.3 miles home.i got 2 traffic lights when the instrument cluster lit up again. The cx-5 seemed to drive ok, so i continued home. As i made the second to last turn -- about 1 mile out -- the automatic transmission indicator blinked out (no longer said 'd'), then the speedometer/tachometer/odometer stopped reporting (all read 0). I made it to my driveway, but was unable to turn it of until i held the start/stop button about 20 seconds until it turned off (this was the solution when i had problems with the smart key in my previous mazda).mazda installed a data recorded in my vehicle several weeks ago, as they continue to investigate problems with the skyactive automatic transmission i reported days after taking delivery in may:http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oohcdcyekly/umgimooun5i/aaaaaaaaako/o_axhysuz74/s1600/img_1293.jpgthat device should hopefully provide additional diagnostic information to them. It was towed to my nearest dealership, whose service bays it is no stranger to.
Check engine, tps, and tcs lights come on and vehicle starts bucking and decelerating. Pulled over, disconnected the battery. Dashboard lights and bucking are gone at restart. Issue occurred two more times in a span of a couple days, so i took it to a shop. P0101 and p061b problems present. Maf sensor seems fine. Continues malfunctioning after oil change and inspection. Taking to the dealership for reflashing.
Was driving normally when all of the sudden engine light came on and other lights in the cluster came on and the vehicle did not shift. Could not pass 20 mph. Had to stop the car and turn it off, later turn it on and just the engine light was lit. After getting home and letting the car cool down the problem went away.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact stated that the vehicle was difficult to turn off. The vehicle finally turned off ten minutes later after several attempts. The vehicle was also leaking oil. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that a malfunctioning sensor caused the leak. The manufacturer and dealer were not notified. The failure mileage was 87,000.
Driving on a side street, i felt a clunk through the gas pedal and the rpm's nosed dived to around 1500.snailed it over to the shoulder, put in park, stepping on the gas would rev up to 2000 then drop to 1500 on it's own regardless of gas peddle position.in park, shut off, restarted, lots of pretty lights on the dash (at, tire pressure, engine, traction control, plus others), no change, rpm to 2000 then drop to 1500.still in park, shut down, restarted again, rpm's were normal but no forward gears in auto or auto-manual (could shift to 'd' or +/- but wouldn't engage). While in 'd' was able to rev engine but transmission obviously not engaged at all. Reverse worked fine, shifted back to 'd' but still no response. Check engine light on.shut down a 3rd time and restarted. Check engine on but rpm and transmission normal. Drove to dealer and dropped it off.service dept. Called later to say ordering a valve body for transmission.
3 times since pcm recall was completed- i have been driving on the highway 65mph, suddenly feel reduction in power, check engine light, low tire pressure lights and tractions stabilty warning lights come on.when the car is turned off, and restarted lights go out except check engine and car drives normal. By the time i get to pepboys they are unable to find a cause and the check engine light goes off.
The engine is refusing to turn off when i hit the off button and it is in the park position.it takes up to 5-6 times to get the engine to shut down by restarting it, playing with the gears and finally shutting down.this could be a sensor problem.i just had the check engine light fixed as it wouldn't turn off either.
I had just exited the freeway after driving 25 miles and was stopped at a stop light. When the light turned green and i stepped on the accelerator, the vehicle engine revved high and did not shift gears in the automatic transmission. I could not get the vehicle out of first gear or over 20 mph. I was able to get the vehicle to a safe location and once it had cooled overnight the transmission shifted normally. I did not drive it more than a block for fear it would happen again and the vehicle is currently at the dealership for repair.
Mazda cx-5 2013check engine light - coolant sensor p011a.heater is no longer warm air. Dealer advises to replace the heater core at $1768.00.hard to believe as car is in mint condition, never missed a service
The car randomly accelerates after depressing the brake.it bucks, revs, lurks then stops.it has happened about 4 time to-date.today, 6/20, i tapped the car in front of me.no damaged but it is the closes to having an accident since i noticed this issue.took the vehicle to pacifico ford in pa to have the issue checked out and they found nothing.that was on 5/23.plan to take it back there again.
After fixing the electrical problem with the car not fully turning off, the car suddenly died in traffic and wouldn't restart. Replacing mass air sensor, o2 sensor, and plugs, the car will die in traffic when coming to a stop, but restarts immediately. The code says this is a pcm problem. Internet research says this is not uncommon resulting in safety recalls in other year models. 2013 should also be recalled.
The ignition on my 2013 mazda cx-5 would not turn off after putting the vehicle into park. The engine would start with the gearshift lever in park, but once i drove to a destination, pulled into a parking lot, and put the gearshift into park, the vehicle would not entirely turn off. It would take several attempts to manipulate the gearshift around to get the car to turn off. The vehicle's electrical system would still be active, including radio, dash lights, headlights, and other electrical systems would all remain on. After contacting a local mazda dealership in town, a "park safety switch" in the gearshift lever is being affected, and it is a known problem affecting mazda cx-5 vehicles. However, there have not been any recalls issued for this problem. Thanks to a quick google search such as "mazda cx-5 will not turn off", i found out about this issue. There are several youtube videos, posts on reddit and mazda forums discussing this issue. Having a vehicle with an issue where you cannot turn the car off because the car "thinks" that the vehicle is not in park is unsafe and a safety hazard and can cause an accident or worse.
While on a very busy road, all of a sudden the accelerator stopped working and my speed began to drop rapidly. At the same time, the traction control warning light and tire pressure warning light came on. It was as if the car had completely lost power. I was able to coast to the side of the road and turn the car completely off. I got out and checked all of the tires and they were fine. When i turned the car back on, the warning lights did not come back on and the car ran normally.
When i put it in park and press button to shut it off, the auxiliary power stays on.this makes the car where it cannot be locked and drains the battery.it is a safety hazard.
Was passing a semi-truck full throttle on a hilly 2 lane roadway.....engine shut down and multiple dash warning lights came on....was able to coast to a safe stop and turned off ignition and restarted vehicle. Very scary!! took the vehicle to the dealer and they could not find a problem.
While driving on the highway, the vehicle very suddenly decelerated (from about 55 to 40), almost as if it slipped back a couple of gears- it was a jarring and immediate loss of power, and i could hear the engine strain as if it was forced into a lower gear. The traction control system and tire pressure monitoring dashboard lights came on, and the check engine light began flashing. I lost ability to accelerate above maybe 1k or 1.5k rpms. When i slowed the car down and drove to a place i could safely pull over, the car was sputtering and trembling aggressively with each push of the gas pedal. When i finally did stop, i powered off the vehicle and checked the tires - all of which were fine. I turned the car back on and it behaved normally, all the error lights were cleared. I even drove it quite some distance to the dealer for maintenance. The service center said they have never heard of this type of incident. A quick web search, however, indicates that others have experienced this very same issue. This is a new (6 months) 2013 mazda cx-5 with around 6000 miles.
I was driving my mazda 2013 cx-5 on the highway, when it suddenly lost power and would not accelerate.i pressed the the accelerated all the way to the floor and my vehicle would not accelerate.the engine light, low tire, and traction symbols all were lid up on the dashboard.i drove the vehicle back home at 20 mph as this is the maximum top speed the vehicle would accelerate.i will check to see if there is a recall for this safety issue that can be life threatening.
While my wife was driving to drop our children off to go to work all of a sudden the check engine, low tire and traction control light came on. When all lights came on the engine lost power and could not go above 20 mph.
For the past 5 months my car will appear to have shut down while driving. I was driving on city streets going about 15 - 45 mph.i work from home or go to the office twice a week. I drive my kids to school during the week. I don't do much commuting. All electrical components shut down then reboot within seconds, and the car makes beeping sounds like i just started the car. The car will not stop or slow down, but if i come to a complete stop at a light, the car will be very slow to accelerate but i can get it back up to the speed limit after a very slow start.i have called aaa on one occasion and took it to a shop on another occasion. They both say it is battery related due to the wrong batter being installed but it is the battery size in the system of an orielys auto parts store. Every time i replace the battery and the issue appears to go away for a couple weeks to a month. The last battery replacement i purchased a stronger batter than in their system as per the advisement from the auto shop. It seemed to fix it again but after a month the car did the same thing.
The traction light automatically kicks on even if there is no bad weather. The lights flash on and the car becomes sluggish as if the traction is on.i have to pull over to turn the car off and restart. The engine light stays on for a least 24 hours. This has happened at least 5 times. Last time it happened 12/14/2017 and happened on highway and i couldn't do anything until i got off the highway.
I tried to turn on my car but the battery was dead for no reason (did not leave the car or stereo on).after i jumped the battery and got the car running the engine sounded different and the engine would barely move the car.i let the battery charge for a while and tried to drive the car again and it will had no power coming from the engine, it would only go maybe 20 mph. I drove home taking back roads because i could not maintain enough speed to take a main road.i plan on contacting mazda tomorrow to figure out what todo next to fix this.
Running errands on way home on the highway while on ahill suddenly incurred loss of power, check engine and driving stability warning lights came on. Pressed gas and no change in speed. Speed dropped from 45 to 20 and had to move to shoulder.other than loss of power everything else functioning normally.managed to return home via back roads and avoidance of hills.speed improved somewhat once completed climbing hill but as neared home car's speed topped out at 20 mph, total trip 4 miles or so.once in driveway turned off car and then started again neither the check engine light nor the driving stability came on again.car well maintained first time this has happened in 2 years of ownership. Will be taking it in for service and see if problem can be diagnosed.
While driving vehicle on frwy, started losing power fast. As if the engine turned off. At light, traction light, stability control light and check engine light came on. Pulled to side of frwy turned car off, sat there in disbelief. I then turned the vehicle back on - only check engine light stayed on. Had power as if nothing had happen diag found code p1738, p0847. Galpin mazda called tech line and they were told to perform a reflash to the pcm.this happen again about 2 months later. But this time all warning lights turned off after restarting. I will mention it on my next service visit.
While driving, the engine appears to stall and the car is not drivable.the car feels as though it has shut off, and no acceleration is possible.i am forced to coast to the shoulder, at which point i must turn the car off and restart in order for the car to be drivable.while this is happening, several indicator lights are illuminated, including the tire pressure monitor, check engine, at, and traction control indicators.upon restart, the check engine remains illuminated.this same incident has recurred 3x since i purchased the car in april 2012, including may 2013, may 2014 and august 2014.each time it has been serviced by the dealership.i have just filed a complaint with mazda.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact stated while driving at various speeds, the vehicle jerked with the check engine, traction control, and tire pressure monitor system warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to lester glenn mazda (101 nj-37 e, toms river, nj 08753, (888)422-5041) however, the mechanic was unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and referred the contact to the local dealer. The failure mileage was 2,000.*dt*dt
While driving on the left lane of a busy los angeles highway at approximately 55mph, all of a sudden the accelerator stopped responding and my speed dropped rapidly. At the same time, the traction control and tire pressure lights turned on. Immediately, i turned on my hazard lights and pulled into the right lane. Unfortunately, i was in a tunnel with no shoulder. When the vehicle's forward momentum ran out, i came to a complete stop after cruising for approximately 100 feet. After my vehicle stopped, i was able to accelerate again and pulled off the highway. I turned the engine off, checked all tires (all looked normal), and restarted the engine. The warning lights were all off at this point, and the vehicle responded normally. This was a disturbing and dangerous situation. I will describe it at my 10,000-mile service, but it does not seem like others who have had this problem have been able to solicit an adequate response from mazda.
When turning off eng, via pressing the electronic start/stop button. The radio stays on. Unless you press the button to turn on the accessories, then pressing brake down, then moving the automatic shift lever from park to drive, to park again and pressing the start/stop button again, then the radio will turn off.this has been happening for many months.
Since last recall repair my cx-5 is experiencing major problems. It will randomly not start. I get in and depress brake pedal, but start button will not light green and car won't start, even after changing battery in key fob. The dashboard lights (all of them) will come on and flash, then go away. The other issue is that the transmission will not engage after car has started. Car is started and in park. I depress the brake and try to put the car into gear (drive) but the shifter refuses to move at all. Pumping the brake does not work, depressing the brake all the way to the floor does not work. There is not a particular sequence of actions that will get the car to go into gear. The only remedy i have found is to turn the car off and let it sit for an extended period of time. When driving the car after this has happened, if i use reverse and then put it into drive, the car jumps forward without my foot being on the gas pedal and then the lights on the dashboard for tire and tcs come on.
Several months now, i'm having to turn my car back on to turn the radio off and completely shut the car down. This has been going on since the summer of this year. I have to crank it up, put it out of park into drive, and put it back in drive. After that, it turns off. I have push to start and had the car for four years pre-owned.yesterday, my sister and i were stranded because my car didn't start. The dealership said it was the air intake oxygen sensor. They replaced it plus they put in a new car battery. My husband and i thought it was weird, but now i'm wondering if the car itself is completely shutting down when i turn it off. Now, this is making me scared to drive the car. The repair cost me 490 something.
[xxx]the engine does not idle.when i would slow to stop for a stop light or stop sign, th engine would quit and require restarting the engine.the check engine light remained illuminated continuously, and, the red battery light would illuminate.a service station diagnosed the problem as either an old battery, and/or, an alternator.ourisman mazda, 801 rockville pike, rockville, maryland 20852 [301-424-7800] advised me this morning, saturday, 01/13/2018, that:1.)the problem is the mass air flow filter that required replacement.2.)there are no recalls for mazda mass air flow sensor failures.3.) total parts and labor are approximately, $575.00.4.)the dealership said that the 5 years / 100,000 warranty did not apply to the mass air flow filter.5.)when i brought the car to ourisman mazda, on 01/12/2018, to have the problem diagnosed.i was asked when and where i last filled the gas tank, (as if a mass air flow failure mimics contaminated fuel. The car was purchased, new, in december 2012,, and has approx.., 75,000 miles of urban/ suburban driving, not under dusty conditions.the risk is that the car could unexpectedly stall and with no way to recover quickly.parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
While driving my vehicle on the interstate the car lost the ability to accelerate. All of the dashboard lights came on and i had to coast to the side of the interstate. After restarting the vehicle i was able to drive it but i cannot take the vehicle over 30 mph now without it shuttering and having acceleration issues. This is a serious and life threatening issue that needs to be fixed free of charge. I have found other reports of this happening but i see no recall information. This needs to be fixed before mazda has lawsuits filed against them. This is a manufacturing error and not a usage error. Please look into this.
After a lube, oil filter service friday morning at the mazda dealership, in the evening while driving at sixty mph on a major highway, we experienced an engine loss of power.reduced down to twenty mph, we safely steered to the breakdown lane and avoided a serious injury or worse.we continued home on city streets going ten mph up hills and maybe thirty downhill.steering and brakes were normal.i am reporting this incident because of seriousness of the possible accident and am asking for your diagnosis of the possible causes of this engine failure.thank you for any assistance.
Out of the blue, i started my vehicle to go to work and the check engine light was on. I read in the manual the gas lid could be loose, but i checked it and it was fine. My husband took it to the dealership and they hooked it up to see what the problem was, and they said it was a miss in the engine, and he'd have to leave it with them so their tech team to try and get to the root of the problem. I had felt hesitations before while coming up our driveway, which is pretty steep. It's like it would almost stop then lunge forward pretty quick. It also has felt like it wasn't changing gears at times, like it normally would. This just happened randomly.
Cx-5 vehicle experienced a dangerous loss of engine/transmission power shortly after accelerating from a full stop at a stoplight. Several console warning lights illuminated including at, tpms, cel, & tcs. Another accelerating vehicle directly behind cx-5 narrowly avoided rear ending the cx-5. Cx-5 slowed down to low gears/rpms and came to a full stop. Driver turned off the vehicle, and then re-started it. Only warning light remained illuminated was the cel. Vehicle engine/transmission would not shift past low speed gears. Vehicle was towed to mazda dealership where cel codes indicated shift malfunction and shift time errors. Mazda authorized repair procedure included replacing valve body and resetting adaptive driving system computer.
[xxx]the engine does not idle.when i would slow to stop for a stop light or stop sign, th engine would quit and require restarting the engine.the check engine light remained illuminated continuously, and, the red battery light would illuminate.a service station diagnosed the problem as either an old battery, and/or, an alternator.ourisman mazda, 801 rockville pike, rockville, maryland 20852 [301-424-7800] advised me this morning, saturday, 01/13/2018, that:1.)the problem is the mass air flow filter that required replacement.2.)there are no recalls for mazda mass air flow sensor failures.3.) total parts and labor are approximately, $575.00.4.)the dealership said that the 5 years / 100,000 warranty did not apply to the mass air flow filter.5.)when i brought the car to ourisman mazda, on 01/12/2018, to have the problem diagnosed.i was asked when and where i last filled the gas tank, (as if a mass air flow failure mimics contaminated fuel. The car was purchased, new, in december 2012,, and has approx.., 75,000 miles of urban/ suburban driving, not under dusty conditions.the risk is that the car could unexpectedly stall and with no way to recover quickly.parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
I once reported my vehicle hesitating going up our driveway and the check engine light coming on. After a week at the dealership service department, the service dept. Manager ask what type of gas we used. My husband always uses ethanol free gas, but a couple of times we weren't close to a station that sold ethanol free gas, so we had to buy what we could find. We were told that using gasoline with ethanol is what is causing all the problems. He said to never use gas with ethanol in it. My husband always uses ethanol free gas, but a couple of times we weren't close to a station that sold ethanol free gas, so we had to buy what we could find. I wonder if all the complaints about stalls, lunges, etc., are due to those who have had the issues were using gas with ethanol in it? had i known that i would always have to use that type of gas in my vehicle, i would have not purchased it. I'm very unhappy about this and it is information that should have been given by the dealership selling the car. And if they didn't know that at the time because it is a new vehicle, they should give you the option to sell the vehicle back to them. I'm afraid i won't always be near a station that sell this specific type of gas, and i don't want to keep going thru this, especially when the warranty is out. It definitely needs looking into!
Wires are burning can't tell from where n smiling gas 2013 mazda cx5
The power driver's seat reclines suddenly while driving. Will go from original position to completely laid back without stopping.i can't let anyone talk sit behind me for fear of crushing their knees or legs. Also happens after exiting the vehicle. Will walk back to car to find the seat fully reclined.this happens almost every time i drive the car but especially on days when running errands and in and out of car multiple times. Car also hesitates when engine is "cold".sudden losses of power while driving. Car just seems to not want to accelerate at times.
I was driving my mazda 2013 cx-5 on the highway, when it suddenly lost power and would not accelerate.i pressed the the accelerated all the way to the floor and my vehicle would not accelerate.the engine light, low tire, and traction symbols all were lid up on the dashboard.i drove the vehicle back home at 20 mph as this is the maximum top speed the vehicle would accelerate.i will check to see if there is a recall for this safety issue that can be life threatening.
While driving vehicle on frwy, started losing power fast. As if the engine turned off. At light, traction light, stability control light and check engine light came on. Pulled to side of frwy turned car off, sat there in disbelief. I then turned the vehicle back on - only check engine light stayed on. Had power as if nothing had happen diag found code p1738, p0847. Galpin mazda called tech line and they were told to perform a reflash to the pcm.this happen again about 2 months later. But this time all warning lights turned off after restarting. I will mention it on my next service visit.
While driving my vehicle on the interstate the car lost the ability to accelerate. All of the dashboard lights came on and i had to coast to the side of the interstate. After restarting the vehicle i was able to drive it but i cannot take the vehicle over 30 mph now without it shuttering and having acceleration issues. This is a serious and life threatening issue that needs to be fixed free of charge. I have found other reports of this happening but i see no recall information. This needs to be fixed before mazda has lawsuits filed against them. This is a manufacturing error and not a usage error. Please look into this.
Initially the check engine light came on with no notice drivability concern.used obd scanner and retrieved two codes: p0172 running rich, p013a downstream o2 slow switch.two days later the car stalled two time, both times right after vehicle stopped completely with brake pedal applied.stopped driving the vehicle for severe safety concern and will send the car to the dealership.vehicle has not been modified, and has 80k miles, 6.5 yrs of service, with regular scheduled maintenance.
After fixing the electrical problem with the car not fully turning off, the car suddenly died in traffic and wouldn't restart. Replacing mass air sensor, o2 sensor, and plugs, the car will die in traffic when coming to a stop, but restarts immediately. The code says this is a pcm problem. Internet research says this is not uncommon resulting in safety recalls in other year models. 2013 should also be recalled.
In garage (thank goodness & not on road). Pushed button to start engine, it turned over but would not stay started, like not getting enough gas.tried 5 more times to do this with same result.the kicker is, once ignition was pushed to turn on, i could not get it off so that all electrical equipment would shut down. Was told by mazdaservice per call to disconnect negative battery cable ......which shut everything off.car was taken on a flat bed tow truck to dealership.still under a certified pre ownedwarranty, big joke!i was told i would have to pay $110.just to get a diagnostic to figure out the problem. Was told this am by service manager problem was a mass air flow sensor, not covered under warranty. How can that be when my extended warranty paperwork reads, ".....with no deductible on covered components."and this is an extension of the 36 thousand mile warranty, i have had this car 27.emission recall fixed in feb. 2016.this is costing me almost $500.i will be trading this 4 cylinder skyactiv slug asap.
After a lube, oil filter service friday morning at the mazda dealership, in the evening while driving at sixty mph on a major highway, we experienced an engine loss of power.reduced down to twenty mph, we safely steered to the breakdown lane and avoided a serious injury or worse.we continued home on city streets going ten mph up hills and maybe thirty downhill.steering and brakes were normal.i am reporting this incident because of seriousness of the possible accident and am asking for your diagnosis of the possible causes of this engine failure.thank you for any assistance.
On 2 separate occasions (5/27/2017 and 6/15/2017) while on the freeway while in stop & go traffic, my vehicle suddenly seemed to lose power, and unable to go more than 20 mph. The tire pressure, traction control, emergency light comes on. Both times i have safely been able to make it to the shoulder. The first time, i had my car towed to auto repair shop. Their $300 diagnosis reported nothing wrong with the car. The second time, i turned my car off & on again on the shoulder. The check engine light stayed on and i and was able to drive to my destination. The check engine is now back off, but i have dropped it off at the same auto repair shop, and they are replacing an air flow sensor in hopes that this resolves the problem. This will cost us another $300. Both times i had my 18 month old in my car. I am deeply concerned.
I bought the car certified pre-owned with 20k miles. After a few months i was at an intersection, once the cross traffic cleared i took my foot off the brake and pressed the accelerator. The car just glided, it had no power for 5 seconds. I repeatedly pressed the the gas pedal but nothing happened until after 5 seconds when the revolutions instantly increased to around 5000 rpm. This was the first time this happened at around 27,000 miles. I figured it was a small glitch. Through my 3 years of ownership (putting on 57,000 miles) this has been occurring more and more frequently. I am very hesitant when crossing intersections and attempting lane changes. This now occurs at least twice a month while in traffic. The other issue occurs when i shift from park/reverse to drive, while on level ground, the car suddenly jerks forward and revolutions increase suddenly, with my food either on the brake or as soon as i remove it but before i press the gas pedal. Another issue is while i'm accelerating, at 20-25 mph as the automatic transmission is shifting from either 2 to 3rd or 3rd to 4th (i haven't been able to determine yet). When transmission misses the gear change it causes the revolutions to suddenly increase for a fraction of a second. When the gear is engaged it is accompanied by a clunky slamming sound. This happens pretty quickly and has not yet made the car lose speed or handling.after 3 years of ownership with recorded routine scheduled maintenance completed and standard commuter use of 60% highway and 40% city style driving i don't feel the transmission and/or engine are safe or reliable. I have taken it to the dealer since it is still under limited power-train warranty but they just tell me that is normal for economy style cars. I can not let my parents borrow the car because i feel these issues might surprise them while in traffic and lead to a collision.
Since last recall repair my cx-5 is experiencing major problems. It will randomly not start. I get in and depress brake pedal, but start button will not light green and car won't start, even after changing battery in key fob. The dashboard lights (all of them) will come on and flash, then go away. The other issue is that the transmission will not engage after car has started. Car is started and in park. I depress the brake and try to put the car into gear (drive) but the shifter refuses to move at all. Pumping the brake does not work, depressing the brake all the way to the floor does not work. There is not a particular sequence of actions that will get the car to go into gear. The only remedy i have found is to turn the car off and let it sit for an extended period of time. When driving the car after this has happened, if i use reverse and then put it into drive, the car jumps forward without my foot being on the gas pedal and then the lights on the dashboard for tire and tcs come on.
The traction control light came on and the tire pressure monitor light began to flash. It felt like car had downshifted a couple of gears. I lost forward power in all gears (engine revved, but no power to wheels through transmission). Fortunately we were just turning into an alley, so was able to park car off a main street. Finally were able to get it to go into reverse to park it briefly. Turned car off then back on again and all lights on dash were normal and transmission would engage in forward gears again. Drove the 7 miles to my house with no problems. Called dealer and the shop says they have never heard of such a problem. Could have been bad if this happened in rush hour traffic.
Cx-5 vehicle experienced a dangerous loss of engine/transmission power shortly after accelerating from a full stop at a stoplight. Several console warning lights illuminated including at, tpms, cel, & tcs. Another accelerating vehicle directly behind cx-5 narrowly avoided rear ending the cx-5. Cx-5 slowed down to low gears/rpms and came to a full stop. Driver turned off the vehicle, and then re-started it. Only warning light remained illuminated was the cel. Vehicle engine/transmission would not shift past low speed gears. Vehicle was towed to mazda dealership where cel codes indicated shift malfunction and shift time errors. Mazda authorized repair procedure included replacing valve body and resetting adaptive driving system computer.
Out of the blue, i started my vehicle to go to work and the check engine light was on. I read in the manual the gas lid could be loose, but i checked it and it was fine. My husband took it to the dealership and they hooked it up to see what the problem was, and they said it was a miss in the engine, and he'd have to leave it with them so their tech team to try and get to the root of the problem. I had felt hesitations before while coming up our driveway, which is pretty steep. It's like it would almost stop then lunge forward pretty quick. It also has felt like it wasn't changing gears at times, like it normally would. This just happened randomly.
This has been happening for the last 2 years. I've taken it to 2 different mazda dealerships for a total of 5 times and they cannot duplicate the issue or find any problems running diagnostics. My car has 50,000 miles on it and is a 2013 mazda cx-5. When i bought it had 20,000 miles on it and i started noticing a few months after i bought it. This issue happens mostly when:'i'm turning left from a complete stop'turning left while coasting toward a stop sign and then speeding up once it turns green'merging into traffic going left or right 'turning right from a complete stop or while coasting to the red light and speeding up once it turns greencar stalls/hesitates/lingers as if i'm not accelerating. As though the car was in neutral instead of drive. The rpm increases but the car does not move (unless it was already coasting and continues to move from momentum). It feels as though the transmission is not shifting quick enough into the right gear and i notice this while i'm usually at a lower speed trying to accelerate into traffic.i am often scared that a car will hit me from behind (or the side if i'm turning left) as i turn into traffic. It's the equivalent of someone turning into heavy traffic and then stopping. This will cause an accident and i'm hoping it doesn't take a fatal or near fatal accident before mazda realizes there is a definite problem with this car.
Driving on a side street, i felt a clunk through the gas pedal and the rpm's nosed dived to around 1500.snailed it over to the shoulder, put in park, stepping on the gas would rev up to 2000 then drop to 1500 on it's own regardless of gas peddle position.in park, shut off, restarted, lots of pretty lights on the dash (at, tire pressure, engine, traction control, plus others), no change, rpm to 2000 then drop to 1500.still in park, shut down, restarted again, rpm's were normal but no forward gears in auto or auto-manual (could shift to 'd' or +/- but wouldn't engage). While in 'd' was able to rev engine but transmission obviously not engaged at all. Reverse worked fine, shifted back to 'd' but still no response. Check engine light on.shut down a 3rd time and restarted. Check engine on but rpm and transmission normal. Drove to dealer and dropped it off.service dept. Called later to say ordering a valve body for transmission.
During a long holiday trip, while driving down us 19 at 65 mph over the new river gorge bridge the engine started revving / surging, with rpms going up and down, when the car suddenly lost power and decelerated rapidly.the traction control system (tcs) light was on solid and the tire pressure system (tps) light was flashing.we had just left a rest area and were less than a mile down the road from where we pulled onto the highway, just getting up to speed.i may have just turned on the cruise control, but i cannot remember.the weather was warm and dry.the car had about 52,700 miles on it.i put on the flashers and prayed that momentum would carry me over the bridge to where i could pull off, that the semi-tractor-trailer truck barreling down on me would get in the other lane soon, and that no one would rear end me.my mom and my husband were in the car with me.we turned off the car, walked around the outside to look at the tires, looked through the manual, and tried to decide what to do.after about 15 minutes, i started it up again, there were no indicators lit up on the dash, and the car seemed to be back to normal, so we continued our trip.since then we have driven about 800 miles and it has not happened again.i haven't had a chance to contact the dealer yet.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. While driving 5 mph, the vehicle jerked violently as if it had been rear ended. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 23,100.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx5. The contact stated while attempting to shut off the vehicle, the vehicle failed to turn off due to the transmission not being fully in park. The contact stated that there was an unknown flashing red warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not yet diagnosed. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and the contact was awaiting a response. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.
When stopped and with the engine and all lights turned off, the car will drain the battery and not be able to be started.this has resulted in being stranded in many places.in fact, i now carry a rechargable battery pack to keep from being stranded once a month.
The car will not turn off when i put it in park. The accessories ie radio won't turn off and i am unable to lock my car as the alarm keeps beepingthis morning i have a dead battery and see that this is a common recurrent problem mazda has. This has been happening intermittently for about a week.
Driving down the freeway, the automatic transaxle light, traction control, and engine light all came on, and car slowed down and it was like it wasn't in gear. I pulled to the side of the road and had to shut it off and restart it four time before all the lights went off and i could drive it again. The check engine light stayed on, but in ran fine.this also happen about a month ago in town, i only had to shut off and restart once, and all the lights went off and its been running fine since until yesterday. I'm taking it to the dealer in the morning.
While driving vehicle on frwy, started losing power fast. As if the engine turned off. At light, traction light, stability control light and check engine light came on. Pulled to side of frwy turned car off, sat there in disbelief. I then turned the vehicle back on - only check engine light stayed on. Had power as if nothing had happen diag found code p1738, p0847. Galpin mazda called tech line and they were told to perform a reflash to the pcm.this happen again about 2 months later. But this time all warning lights turned off after restarting. I will mention it on my next service visit.
Bought my car with 40k miles on it from a mazda dealership in aurora colorado in 2017. I'm at 106k now and i thought i needed wheel bearings on the front driver side tire. Turns out it's the drive train and a transmission failing. My vehicle hums on the front driver side when i accelerate. This issue began just over 100k miles.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5.the contact stated while driving at various speeds and decelerating, there was an abnormal winding and grinding noise detected. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for routine repairs on the axle and the mechanic was informed that the transmission was making an abnormal winding noise. The vehicle was taken to an independent transmission specialist where he was informed that the trans axle bearings needed to be replaced. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and informed that the repairs were not covered under warranty. The failure mileage was 84,000.
Check engine, tps, and tcs lights come on and vehicle starts bucking and decelerating. Pulled over, disconnected the battery. Dashboard lights and bucking are gone at restart. Issue occurred two more times in a span of a couple days, so i took it to a shop. P0101 and p061b problems present. Maf sensor seems fine. Continues malfunctioning after oil change and inspection. Taking to the dealership for reflashing.
Driving in city setting when all of a sudden the traction light came on for the car and at the same time, i felt that the power train was slipping, and then it gave out completely. Pressed on the gas peddle and got no acceleration. Tire pressure light also came on.stopped car turned off and restarted.tried to drive the car, but after about a mile the same issue arose and this time the at light and check engine light came on.had it towed to dealer where they worked on it for about a week.at 34000 mile the same think just happened again.driving along a country road at about 35 miles per hour it happened the second time.having it towed to the dealer for a second time.
Mazda cx 5 2013, has intermittent loss of power.most noticeable when trying to cross the highway &/or merge into traffic.(scary)took it in for mazda recall 8915k pcm, this did not fix the issue. Mazda service tech had same issue.(note i took it to a local ase certified shop where it did the same thing prior to taking to mazda--which is why i took it to the dealer).so no solution and not safe to drive.
I was on the highway and had to slow down due to traffic. When car slowed down to 15km/hr, it suddenly/violently stopped as if someone hit me from behind. After stopping, i applied gas again, but car was very sluggish and never changed gears (felt like i was trying to accelerate starting with the 6th gear - i was in "d"). Every time i let go of gas peddle, it would instantly jerk the car to a stop. Feels exactly like a manual transmission when you are in first gear and don't give enough gas and suddenly let go of your clutch - the engine slams shut. No engine or transmission light was indicated on the dash. The car can turn on/off without problems. I had the car towed to mazda. Took them 1 week to determine and fix the car: they replaced the whole transmission (under warranty). I only have 38000 miles on the car.the invoice says: k0101xrx transmission complete, r&r (0000-23-atf-fz 6sp.a/t fl, fw7a-03-000r-v0 t/mission).mazda told me that there is no current recall for this. This was extremely dangerous on the highway!! thankfully i was already on the slow lane due to the traffic... This was on a 5 lane highway! if i was on the fast lane, it would be a fatal accident!!!
While driving on the highway, the vehicle very suddenly decelerated (from about 55 to 40), almost as if it slipped back a couple of gears- it was a jarring and immediate loss of power, and i could hear the engine strain as if it was forced into a lower gear. The traction control system and tire pressure monitoring dashboard lights came on, and the check engine light began flashing. I lost ability to accelerate above maybe 1k or 1.5k rpms. When i slowed the car down and drove to a place i could safely pull over, the car was sputtering and trembling aggressively with each push of the gas pedal. When i finally did stop, i powered off the vehicle and checked the tires - all of which were fine. I turned the car back on and it behaved normally, all the error lights were cleared. I even drove it quite some distance to the dealer for maintenance. The service center said they have never heard of this type of incident. A quick web search, however, indicates that others have experienced this very same issue. This is a new (6 months) 2013 mazda cx-5 with around 6000 miles.
Driving northbound on the nj turnpike,my cx-5 was cruising with at 65mph when all of a sudden the traction control,low tire pressure,check engine atlights went off simultaneously. The car suddenly decelerated as if all power was lost down to 30 mph.was able to pull off the side. I assumed it might be a tire issue but all tires were properly inflated.engine and fluids were not leaking. Restarted the car twice but lights continued to stay on. Had to crawl to service exit and called mazda. Waited 45 mins for a tow truck,when driver came i restated the car and only the check engine light stayed on.
I was driving at the listed speed on the new jersey turnpike. Without warning, the vehicle went from sixth gear to fourth, rapidly losing speed in the far left lane. The tire pressure indicator light came on flashing, and the traction control light came on solid yellow. I pulled the vehicle onto the shoulder to check the tires, per the indicator, and noticed none of the tires was deflated. When i restarted the vehicle, the tire pressure and traction lights were solid yellow, along with the engine and "at" transmission light. While there was no noticeable effect on vehicle operation once restarted, i could not use the select-a-gear feature of my transmission. I was told at the dealership where i brought the vehicle that there were issues with the transmission control module, and that software updates were required. The vehicle was returned several days later, with the warning lights resolved, but told that they were uncertain as to whether it was a definitive fix. There have been no recurrences since the original incident.
Driving with cruise on at approx 68mph, car suddenly slowed, the traction control light was solid amber, the tpms was flashing amber.pulled to side of highway, shut off vehicle, restarted and tcs, tpms, cel, and at lights were illuminated.called mazda cust serv and due to mileage unable to tow - spent 2 hrs at top of hill on side of highway road waiting on tow (paid out of personal pocket).complementary tow from house to dealership - told today (3/17) that the transmission was bad and needed replaced.due to mileage, was out of warranty but mazda would help cover cost of trans if i paid install.looking to be out $1,100+ of my own money to get vehicle back.the exact same thing happened 16 months prior in nov, 2012 when the vehicle had 27,000-ish miles on it and no issues were "found" at that time.have hard time believing that the two are not related given the failure mode in both instances was the same.basically wishing i had gone with a different model now that i have read this has happened to several others.this needs to be looked at for a recall - blog indicates that some being told it is a transmission valve needing replaced, some not having issue found, transmission needs replaced, etc.i believe this is a faulty design and puts consumers at risk if the vehicle suddenly decelerates on a busy highway, or as another has reported when they were in a tunnel.i have been lucky both times for me have been on a less-than-busy highway.please recall this vehicle for the transmission!!!
This vehicle when stopped at a stop light, suddenly tried to accelerate then a loud thump and jolt(as if someone ran into the rear of the vehicle). This happend in feb 2013 (two times) (dealer could not find any problem) then again in may 2014. Dealer stated same problem in another model and all they could do is update the computer program. They could not guarantee this would fix the problem.
I have complain about 2013 mazda cx-5 grand touring i bought. The vehicle is driven just 49000 miles in 5 years and just after it completed 5 years started having issues. After the dealer check they found the transmission has to be replaced costing $4000+. The dealer mentioned as its more than 5 years its not covered under warranty.this is very disgusting and the stressful when you trust a brand and it fails and then you have additional expenses.
Put my truck in gear d for drive start driving and at 5mph its making a noise like a standard transmission do when you are in the wrong gear such as too low. At first i thought it was my radio because it was sizzling and the read out that the station show was no longer showing the song or artist. So i switch to another station and is still made the sound so i put in a cd and listen to it and i had to turn volume up in order not to hear the sound. The faster i drove the louder it got.i only have 28,000 miles so transmission shouldn't be bad. I had an oil change about 2 weeks ago with tire rotation and fluids checked and all was fine.taking it to shop.
While my wife was driving to drop our children off to go to work all of a sudden the check engine, low tire and traction control light came on. When all lights came on the engine lost power and could not go above 20 mph.
When i press the button to turn off the car, the accessories do not turn off.the radio continues to play, etc.i have to restart the car and turn it off again.i repeat until the car finally turns off.i leave the radio on in case i forget and my battery runs down. From researching i have found it is a bad shifter position switch and everyone is having the same problem.scareymy car was parked at the time.
Vehicle does not shut off when pressing the start/stop button due to known gate at shifter issue in sb 05-007/15.my vehicle warranty expired due to milage before the sb was even released.
I had just exited the freeway after driving 25 miles and was stopped at a stop light. When the light turned green and i stepped on the accelerator, the vehicle engine revved high and did not shift gears in the automatic transmission. I could not get the vehicle out of first gear or over 20 mph. I was able to get the vehicle to a safe location and once it had cooled overnight the transmission shifted normally. I did not drive it more than a block for fear it would happen again and the vehicle is currently at the dealership for repair.
My vehicle does not want to turn off when placed in park. The car is fully in the park position, but the start push button is illuminated with a red light. The power is still on, and the car beeps when door is open. I can only get the power to turn off, after repeatedly tapping the gear shift left, towards the p symbol. It is already fully seated in the park position, but this finally causes the light to go off and the car turns off. Always hoping the power did not turn back on while away from the car. Is this a fire hazard? i will not park my car in the garage as i am concerned it may overheat the wiring, electrical components, etc...??? i have noticed similar complaints for this vehicle on this website also.
While driving at 50mph my vehicle suddenly slowed down to 5mph.luckily for me no cars were behind me when this happened because i'm pretty sure i would have been rear-ended.soon after this happened i looked at my dash board to see if any warning lights were on but there was nothing.so then i continued to drive to a side street all whilst pressing the accelerator with no response.once i turned on to a side street an attempted to pull over the vehicle suddenly accelerated, which i was not expecting to happen.at this point i had to slam on my brakes and placed it on park.after getting over the fear of driving my vehicle i was able to drive it home, but not without having my vehicle dramatically slow down again while driving up my driveway.
[xxx]the engine does not idle.when i would slow to stop for a stop light or stop sign, th engine would quit and require restarting the engine.the check engine light remained illuminated continuously, and, the red battery light would illuminate.a service station diagnosed the problem as either an old battery, and/or, an alternator.ourisman mazda, 801 rockville pike, rockville, maryland 20852 [301-424-7800] advised me this morning, saturday, 01/13/2018, that:1.)the problem is the mass air flow filter that required replacement.2.)there are no recalls for mazda mass air flow sensor failures.3.) total parts and labor are approximately, $575.00.4.)the dealership said that the 5 years / 100,000 warranty did not apply to the mass air flow filter.5.)when i brought the car to ourisman mazda, on 01/12/2018, to have the problem diagnosed.i was asked when and where i last filled the gas tank, (as if a mass air flow failure mimics contaminated fuel. The car was purchased, new, in december 2012,, and has approx.., 75,000 miles of urban/ suburban driving, not under dusty conditions.the risk is that the car could unexpectedly stall and with no way to recover quickly.parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
2013 mazda cx-5.consumer writes in regards to vehicle decelerated while driving and tire pressure sensor warning light,traction control warning light, check engine light and automatic transaxle warning light came on. The dealer only on replaced the automatic transmission fluid. The consumer requested to have the transmission valve body replaced, as flushing the fluid, was only a temporary fix.
The power driver's seat reclines suddenly while driving. Will go from original position to completely laid back without stopping.i can't let anyone talk sit behind me for fear of crushing their knees or legs. Also happens after exiting the vehicle. Will walk back to car to find the seat fully reclined.this happens almost every time i drive the car but especially on days when running errands and in and out of car multiple times. Car also hesitates when engine is "cold".sudden losses of power while driving. Car just seems to not want to accelerate at times.
The front-seat headrests in my vehicle are tilted forward in a way that forces an unnatural seating position.a driver must slouch forward to avoid the headrest, or be forced to tilt his/her head downwards.both options result in the headrest having significant long-term consequences for the health of the occupant's neck and spine, which ironically are the injuries headrests should be designed to prevent.
The driver and passenger head restraints push my head far too forward and downward.being only 5', i added a seat pad and a lumbar pad, still no help.i have had to turn the head restraint backwards resulting in relieve but won't protect me in an accident.
Rear seat latches failed when the vehicle brakes. Seats will unlatch when the vehicle brakes, rendering the back seat unable to be used for safety concerns. Edmunds.com included a comment about the rear seat latch failing in their review of the mazda cx-5 2013.mazda service has included their need for replacement on the attached invoice. I have not repaired the latches yet because i believe they are a defective device and i do not want them replaced with a part that may fail when a passenger is riding in the rear seat.
The cx-5 comes equipped with a powered driver seat adjustment controls.at 20,000 miles, the car started spontaneously reclining, after you turn off the engine, step outside, and close the driver door.warning: it is very powerful motor in terms of torque, and a human cannot prevent its descent by pushing back on it. The seat continues to recline, as though the button is depressed -- even when it makes contact with a solid object -- or a person. Small children in car seats directly behind the door were bruised and terrified for days after the incident (happened 2-3 times before we stopped using it). It happens after you turn off engine and leave the car.normally, but not always, quickly jumping back into driver seat and pushing the button to the opposite direction, will reverse the situation.however, on one occasion, this would not work, and upon returning to the car to find the seat in the fully reclined position, i had to drive home this way.again, it does not stop reclining upon sensing that it has made contact with an object (as an elevator may do).the event happens while the vehicle is stationary, in park, with the engine turned off, and the door is closed.there are no objects lodged in the vicinity of the controls, that may be inadvertently depressing on them.the shock of the door being closed, appears to be triggering it. Note, there is no seat memory on this model, so it is also not a case of the seat presets being adjusted for a different driver. We do not have video of the event, as each time it happened, we were focused on saving the children instead. A photograph of the seat in fully reclined position can be provided, but does not document or prove how the seat arrived into this position, unfortunately.
Wires are burning can't tell from where n smiling gas 2013 mazda cx5
Several months now, i'm having to turn my car back on to turn the radio off and completely shut the car down. This has been going on since the summer of this year. I have to crank it up, put it out of park into drive, and put it back in drive. After that, it turns off. I have push to start and had the car for four years pre-owned.yesterday, my sister and i were stranded because my car didn't start. The dealership said it was the air intake oxygen sensor. They replaced it plus they put in a new car battery. My husband and i thought it was weird, but now i'm wondering if the car itself is completely shutting down when i turn it off. Now, this is making me scared to drive the car. The repair cost me 490 something.
The passenger seat air bag sensor failed and it cost me 1,000.00 to repair ,replace sensor car is less than 5years old. Also the paint clear coat has deteriorated badly dealer says nothing they can do about the paint
There seems to be an issue with the drivers side seat where it jostles and clicks. My local service center claims that a lot of cx-5 models have been having this issue and it may be normal. To me, this is definitely not a normal issue and had only started happening, recently. Obviously something is wrong with the seat.i would also like to note that this is not the first time that i've had an issue with the same seat. The day after i purchased my cx-5, i realized the entire driver's side seat cushion was coming completely off of the frame. I brought the vehicle back into where i purchased it and they did some minor adjustments to make sure the cushion stayed in place. Fast forward to today and now the same exact seat is jostling and clicking. There is apparently something wrong with this seat and it could possibly be a real safety issue if mazda doesn't address it soon.i would also like to note that almost a month after my initial complaint about this issue to my local service center, they have yet to even look at it or repair it. Apparently, mazda is not taking the issue seriously.
While in motion, the motorized driver seat moves up, back, and forward even though nothing is touching the movement lever. After turning the vehicle off, the driver seat intermittently fully reclines on its own. This has been an ongoing issue that has not been properly addressed by mazda's own service center.
Since about 2014 when i leave my vehicle and return my drivers seat will have reclined all the way back. For a few years it would take a few seconds to return upright but as of the last 3 weeks, it has been happening frequently and now it takes a long time for it to return upright.i can still move the seat forward and back.i will push the button several times for the seat to move up but it will not so i am driving with no back support which is very uncomfortable on my back.it's difficult to drive with no back support,it's excruciating on my back and makes driving uncomfortable.i am afraid for my life when driving with no back support.if i am involved in an accident my back will have no support.the seat will not return forward for 30 to 40 minutes.i am afraid to travel long distance now and this is happening several times a day and on a daily basis as opposed to several years ago when it happened 5 to 6 times a year. When it first happened in 2014, i felt this should be a recall. Over time, this has gotten very dangerous and worst. I read on the internet where a lady who also had a mazda cx 5 said her baby was in a car seat behind the drivers seat and the seat reclined and trapped her baby. That incident aloneshould make the drivers repair a recall.i hope no one gets paralyzed d or killed from this.
The drivers seat reclines without anyone pressing button while the car is parked. This has happened irregularly for years. I have a car seat in the back seat and this shifts the car seat which becomes a safety hazard. This is a known issue and mazda refuses to acknowledge and correct it. It has nothing to do with mileage on the car. It was always a glitch in how it was made. They said the only way to get it fixed is to have the problem diagnosed at the dealer first. I know they are aware but do not want to pay until the recall is official and they have to. Please help us keep our kiddos safe!
The drivers seat reclines without anyone pressing button while the car is parked. This has happened irregularly for years. I have a car seat in the back seat and this shifts the car seat which becomes a safety hazard. This is a known issue and mazda refuses to acknowledge and correct it. It has nothing to do with mileage on the car. It was always a glitch in how it was made. They said the only way to get it fixed is to have the problem diagnosed at the dealer first. I know they are aware but do not want to pay until the recall is official and they have to. Please help us keep our kiddos safe!
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. When the brakes were engaged, an abnormal noise emitted from the rear of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, where it diagnosed that the rear passenger side caliper, the rear driver side and passenger side rotors and brake pads needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 31,000.
I was traveling at approximately 65 mph on a highway in the right-hand lane when my tire pressure indicator, traction control indicator, low oil indicator, emergency check engine indicator light illuminated.the car appeared to be driving normally so i drove it to a nearby meineke shop where they ran diagnostics & reported they were getting error codes p0571 & p02507.they further advised they were not equipped to fix the problem and i had to go to a mazda dealership - the closest was 20 miles away. While on my way to the dealership, (again traveling approximately 65 mph on a highway in the right-hand lane), every light remained illuminated.approximately 10 minutes into the trip, my push-to-start button started flashing yellow, i lost power to the car and my brakes were not responsive.i coasted to the side of the road where i turned the car off, not knowing if it would turn back on.i allowed it to sit for about 5 minutes and attempted to turn it "on" via the push-to-start.it did turn on and allowed me to continue driving, (this time in the break-down lane at 25 mph with my hazard lights flashing).i made it to the dealership where they noted the check-engine light was on.diagnostics by the dealership / my invoice reveal the "cause" as "61 p0302xrx brake switch, r & r 71 w" and "1 lmin07*5 mini lp 7.5 fuse" with a part number of bn7n-66-490.the issue was repaired under warranty as the car is less than 3 years old / less than 25,000 miles.i was on vacation 8 hours from my home with this happened.i had 2 teenagers in the car during the first failure.this could have been really, really bad had i been traveling in the left lane as i believe i would have been rear ended when the car suddenly slowed down and i lost the ability to brake. The out-of-state dealership was wonderful; however i believe this make/model needs to be recalled for this issue.
I've been having a problem with my rear driver side brakes wearing out way sooner than all of my other brakes. I finally decided to look it up and i see that everybody has the same issue. They posted a service bulletin a while back that i was never notified of so now it is no longer covered but something as far as manufacturer defects on the brakes should be a recall. Brakes are a very important part of driver safety and i'm really surprised this not been put on the recall list... The rotors start wearing out all of a sudden and grinding off all of the metal onto the road.... It happens suddenly with no warning... When it first started it was sudden and is continuing even when i am not breaking still making noises.. This started happening when my car was under 20000 miles and i thought nothing of it and i have just been going and getting that one rotor replaced along with the brake pad but this is a reoccurring issue... And mazda is taking no responsibility in fixing it
Purchased used 2013 mazda cx-5 in december 2015. April 2017 had rear brake pads and rotors replaced due to rust. Screeching began, again, end of june 2019 while driving normal speeds.continued to get worse, braking and not braking at any speed. Mechanic stated that the rear pads and rotors needed to be replaced due to rust, with the left-side being extremely worse than the right.said the caliper might have gone bad. Couldn't explain how this would happen in 2 years. Did not mention any notices for this from mazda or how to prevent this from happening again.
Rear brake pads and rotors completely worn, calipers sticking before 40,000 miles were even on thecar.back up camera stopped working around 34000 miles.. Dealer said there is a pin hole in camera.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx5. The contact stated that while driving at 40 mph, the contact applied the brake pedal which started grinding without warning. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the rear brakes needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 18,600.
I started hearing a grinding noise coming from the back passenger side.i didn't realize it was my car the first few times it happened, thinking what could be wrong on a car less than 2 years old!?!a few days later, the noise became more regular when braking, and was grinding loudly at all stops!i took it to the service dept and they said it was the rotors/brake pads, which needed to be replaced.and of course not covered under my warranty because it was "normal wear and tear" due to rust build up which locked up the brake pad.... This does not seem "normal" to me.... I have never had a car that needed brakes this soon! something seems defective, but i'm not sure what to do about it!
While the brake is held down with the left foot and a slight pressure is put on the gas pedal the car will suddenly surge forward.it can move about two feet before i get the brake on hard enough to stop the car.it feels as if the vehicle was struck hard from behind.the dealer has looked at it twice and suggested that the bog for "break over gas" logic system is being fooled by the combined pressure on the brake and gas at the same time, i.e., if, while both pedals are pressed, if the brake pressure is slightly released while the gas pedal is still slightly depressed the computer thinks the it has to "catch-up with the gas pedal and it surges forward.it has happened five times.it has never happened without both the brake and gas being simultaneously applied.it becomes a safety issue when it happens at a busy stop signedintersection while waiting to make a left turn across oncoming traffic, i.e., a pedestrian could be struck. I try to avoid this using this technique but it is a habit that i'm sure many drivers have.
Without any advance warning my rear brakes began screeching. I am now operating with rear brakes that are metal on metal.i spoke with the service manager at the dealership where i purchased the vehicle and he said it's normal for brakes to wear out and it is probably not from a stuck caliper.this began happening one week ago during normal usage.
Driving on a paved road when i heard a very loud squealing noise coming from the rear wheels. Checked the wheels when i got home , and discovered premature wear on rear brake pads and rotors. Pads were worn down, and the rotors were grooved the rear right side was really bad . Looked for a recall notice, and found nothing, so i replaced them. I talked to the service manager at the local mazda dealership on june 121th, and he informed me that there was a notice sent to the dealers to look for this problem if there was a customer complaint. I asked why the notice was not sent to the vehicle owner's, and he had no answer.
I was driving my car and felt a strong shimmying in the steering wheel. I took the car to my neighborhood garage where they discovered that both the front and rear brakes were completely shot. As this was extremely unusual given the mileage and the fact that it was a new car, they called a mazda dealer who agreed to fix the rear brakes at no charge but refused to fix the fronts. They claimed that there was a service bulletin for the rears. After they fixed the repair breaks, the car was still undriveble due to shimmying. I took it to a break shop and paid to have it repaired. They said they had never seen rotors so warped and gave them back to me to show anyone who might care.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx5. The contact stated that while braking for an approaching intersection, the brakes did not respond. The vehicle continued to travel and crashed into the rear of another vehicle. There were no injuries. A police report was filed. The manufacture was notified of the failure. The failure and current mileage was 35,000.
Brake pads were worn through at 18 months. It was never caught on inspection and the mechanic said they would have failed completely soon. There is no reason a car should wear through the brakes in a year and a half. Mazda did not care.
A week ago i started hearing a metal grinding sound on the rear passenger side of my mazda cx-5. My car is only a year an a half old. I brought it to my mechanic and he said that the rotor is completely gone and i needed new brake pads because of it. However, he couldn't locate my parts anywhere. It seems that all the local mazda dealerships didn't have them and all the aftermarket places claimed that mazda company had bought them all back. My mechanic also said it was odd that it was only one side. I have been researching and found out that there are many other complaints out there for the same problem! so dangerous! the reason my husband bought me this car was because it was safe and i wouldn't have any problems. There is no reason a new car should need new rotors and brake pads! to see more complaints go to this website, repairpal.com/premature-rear-brake-failure-705. I hope they recall this soon! in the meantime my car has not been fixed because there is a nation wide back order on the part!
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. While driving 20 mph in traffic, the brake pedal was applied, but failed to respond. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The failure recurred several times. As a result, the contact's vehicle rear ended another vehicle. There were no injuries and a police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic, but the failure could not be replicated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The vin was invalid. The failure mileage was approximately 49,000.
Over the lifetime of my vehicle, i have replaced my rear pads and rotors three times (have also replaced front pads and rotors two times during the lifetime of the car). The most two recent occurrences were in november 2017 and april 2019, where both the rear brakes pads and rotors were completely replaced both times. The mileage in between both repairs was only 22,326. I have called with my concerns to the dealership, and they explain that there are so many factors that it is difficult to say what the issue could be. I take care of my vehicle, it is always repaired and serviced on time, has frequent car washes, including the wheel and undercarriage area. I have an approximate half hour commute with only highway miles, because we have an additional car for our local errands. It seems as though this is a problem with a lot of 2013 mazda cx-5 owners, not juts myself, as i've discovered from many vehicle complaint boards online who speak of the same exact issue of having to constantly replace prematurely worn brake pads and rotors.i personally feel that there is definitely something more to this recurring issue than what i am actually being told, and feel as though it should be investigated once and for all. Thank you for your time and assistance.
Brakes needed replacing at 14,000 and 17,000 miles.mazda has technical service bulletins on the issue but refuses to repair the problem.
The proximity of the pedals seem to be too close. Some footwear may snag when attempting to brakehave noticed twice since purchasing car on 9/22.
I started hearing a metal grinding sound on the read driver side of my mazda cx5. I was told the rotors and pad were gone and needed replaced. The parts were not available and i was driving on used pads for about 1 month and they started to make the same grinding sound. I did not feel safe driving this car with the brakes in the condition.
I first started hearing this screeching noise back in may 2015, after which i took it to the dealership thinking whatever it was could be covered under warranty.they came back saying that it was due to not having any rear brake pads left and my rotors were severely damaged.unfortunately, this was due to normal wear and tear and not covered under warranty.after fixing this, in august 2015, i started to hear the noise again.took it back to the same dealership complaining about the same noise.this time, they stated that it was my front brake pads.got this fixed as well.now it is september, and i hear the same exact screeching noise as i heard in may.i decided to have it checked at another dealership but unfortunately, due to how the prior dealership used an air impact wrench to put on my wheel locks, they were not able to remove them.it actually stripped the key and now i am stuck with another problem to fix.while there, we asked if this might be the reason behind the screeching that we hear, but the mechanic stated that there is a service bulletin out on the rear calipers, etc and to fix it if a customer complains.now my complaint is how is a customer supposed to be aware of this if it is not made known to us...and instead, the dealerships trick us into repeatedly returning to have it checked, taking time out of our busy work schedules.i also don't agree with at only 30k, i had to have all my brake pads changed already!all the other cars i've had, i did at around 50k.
Started hearing a grinding noise coming from the back passenger side. I didn't realize it was my car the first few times it happened, thinking what could be wrong on a car less than 2 years old!?! a few days later, the noise became more regular when braking, and was grinding loudly at all stops! i took it to the service dept and they said it was the rotors/brake pads, which needed to be replaced. And of course not covered under my warranty because it was "normal wear and tear" due to rust build up which locked up the brake pad.... This does not seem "normal" to me.... I have never had a car that needed brakes this soon! something seems defective, but i'm not sure what to do about it! tire kingdom replaced the brakes and they so this does not really happenplease advise .
Rear brakes (rotors and brake pads) prematurely worn out at ~35kthis looks like a design issues as there is a tsb for it, do to rust formation that makes the brake pads stick.mazda should have been pro-active. All they needed to do was to remove rusted spots and apply some grease. Now i have a case open with mazda customer service to see if they will cover it as warranty item.
Pulling in to parking space with foot on brake. Vehicle would not stop and couldn't turn the steering wheel. Car suddenly accelerated and jump curb and ran into side of building. Brake pedal was hard to press and even tried pumping brake, but vehicle would not stop. Engine speed did not change when pumping brake. Vehicle was only three weeks old and had a major malfuntion with braking and steering.
Our company owns two mazda cx5s, model years 2013 with 22,500 miles and 2014 with 13,000 miles. On both cars the rear brakes and rotors have completely worn down. When we had the 2013 serviced, only the brakes could be replaced because the rotors were on national back order.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx5. The contact stated that the rear brakes failed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who advised that the rear brake pads and rotors needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was then taken to an authorized dealer where the contact was awaiting repairs. The approximate failure mileage was 31,800the consumer requested to have the complaint cancelled. The rear brakes were checked and they were in good condition. Updated 05.13.14
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. While driving, the contact heard an abnormal noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. Upon inspection, it was discovered that the rear brake rotor was deformed and damaged. The cause of the failure was not determined. Mazda of clear lake (20101 gulf fwy, webster, tx) and the manufacturer were notified of the failure; however, no assistance was offered. The failure mileage was 29,750. Consumer stated recently called about faulty brake for 2013 mazda cx-5. Ref #11232833. I willattach photos of faulty brake and good brake, both from rear of vehicle.please be advised that there are multitude of complaints online for this problem, i have just owned this vehicle for a long time with low miles, <30,000. All complaints are within the 0-30,000 mile point. 'parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).'
Pulling in to parking space with foot on brake. Vehicle would not stop and couldn't turn the steering wheel. Car suddenly accelerated and jump curb and ran into side of building. Brake pedal was hard to press and even tried pumping brake, but vehicle would not stop. Engine speed did not change when pumping brake. Vehicle was only three weeks old and had a major malfuntion with braking and steering.
While driving, the engine appears to stall and the car is not drivable.the car feels as though it has shut off, and no acceleration is possible.i am forced to coast to the shoulder, at which point i must turn the car off and restart in order for the car to be drivable.while this is happening, several indicator lights are illuminated, including the tire pressure monitor, check engine, at, and traction control indicators.upon restart, the check engine remains illuminated.this same incident has recurred 3x since i purchased the car in april 2012, including may 2013, may 2014 and august 2014.each time it has been serviced by the dealership.i have just filed a complaint with mazda.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact stated that while driving approximately 30 mph, the tire pressure monitor warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the tpms was reset and no failure was found. The failurerecurred five times. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the problem. The approximate mileage of the failure was 100.
The proximity of the pedals seem to be too close. Some footwear may snag when attempting to brakehave noticed twice since purchasing car on 9/22.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v644000 (structure); however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v644000 (structure). The part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The local dealer, green lincolnmazda, was contacted and confirmed that the parts were not available for the recall remedy. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v644000 (structure) and stated that the part was not available within a reasonable time frame to schedule the recall repair. The dealer kept stating the contact would have to wait for the second notice, did not give a specific date for when the part would become available. The manufacturer was contacted and could not provide an estimated date for when the contacts vehicle would receive the recall repair.the contact was not experiencing a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.*as
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. While the vehicle was parked, the liftgate failed to open. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v644000 (structure). The part to do the recall repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 42,835. The vin was not available. Vin tool confirms parts not available.
We bought our cx-5 in april 2013. Last night when i went to get in my car i noticed a crack in the bottom middle of the windshield its about 12 inches long and curves like a hook. When i parked mycx-5 there was no crack. When we called dealer where we bought the car he stated "a rock hit it" without even looking at the crack. My husband let him know that a rock did not hit the windshield as it was sitting in our yard. I am worried that if i take my car up to the dealership they will do the pen test and state that it was caused by a rock.there are no stars or chips on the windshield. Would like to know if there is a way to confirm this crack before they do a pen test?
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v644000 (structure); however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The vehicle was taken to tustin mazda (located at 28 auto center dr, tustin, ca 92782) where it was confirmed that the part was not available. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. The vin was not available. Parts distribution disconnect.
The rear hatch fails to open in cold weather. I had to climb in through the car and open a small hatch to open the lift gate manually. After i opened it manually it worked properly the rest of the day. . continues to fail intermittently when vehicle is parked over night in cold weather.
Both rear view mirrors vibrate at speeds in excess of 30 mph. On highways the vibrating is so intense the mirrors are nearly useless as using them can be nauseating. The driver side mirror vibrates more than the passenger side mirror, but both noticeably vibrate.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v644000 (structure). The part for the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v644000 (structure); however, the part for the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The contact had not experienced a failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. Parts distribution disconnect.
Walked out to cracked windshield (1/4 way across vehicle) 6 months after purchased. Was told by dealer would not cover under warranty because of small nick at end of crack was thicker than dollar bill.4 months later, discovered chip in windshield. During fix, crack protruded from chip and whole windshield had to be replaced again.
I received a safety recall of my mazda cx5 in october 2016.it is recall 9916hlift gate stay damper concern.i have been calling the mazda at the avenues , jacksonville, fl, to get it fixed since october. As of january 7, there are still no parts and they don't know when they will get parts.
When driving over 40mph, the side view mirrors shake uncontrollably making me extremely dizzy and feeling disoriented. I can't use them at all and makes driving at that speed unsafe. I brought it to mazda to be fixed twice already. The first time, they acknowledged an issue but i had to come back because they needed to send the dealership the parts. When the parts were in, they tried the fix and then i was told it didn't resolve the issue. The fix was to the hood to stop the hood and mirrors from shaking. Apparently, mazda are aware of the issue and coming out with a new fix in the next month or so. This is a brand new car. All mileage so far has been me going back and forth to the dealership for this issue. I have not been able to enjoy the car at all and deem it unsafe for myself and my baby. I wrote to mazda customer service and received a disgusting response who began every sentence with "unfortunately"! "[xxx]"offered $100 in service coupons for the inconvenience without explaining what the issue is and how they attempt to fix it. I am extremely disappointed in mazda for many reasons...number one being advertising the car for safety features when clearly it isn't.they need to look at this very seriously and come up with a fix tried and tested for the safety of all passengers. If i had to go through a purchasing exercise again, i surely will not be buying mazda products.information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v644000 (structure); however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.
On saturday afternoon 7/24 i was leaving a parking lot when mydrivers side wheel detached from my front axle rod. I have around 90k miles on the vehicle. There was no indication of a part coming loose. Never noticed vibration of wheel or any resistance during movements. This should be a recall on the vehicle.
Put my truck in gear d for drive start driving and at 5mph its making a noise like a standard transmission do when you are in the wrong gear such as too low. At first i thought it was my radio because it was sizzling and the read out that the station show was no longer showing the song or artist. So i switch to another station and is still made the sound so i put in a cd and listen to it and i had to turn volume up in order not to hear the sound. The faster i drove the louder it got.i only have 28,000 miles so transmission shouldn't be bad. I had an oil change about 2 weeks ago with tire rotation and fluids checked and all was fine.taking it to shop.
Factory installed tires completely worn and needing replacement at 16,700 miles.vehicle is driven exclusively by my 55 year old wife.
Exiting freeway when i heard a thump from vehicle and then decelaration.unable to accelarate normally.car kept stopping.pulled over for few minutes, then tried again and car resumed driving normally.a month later was is a store parking lot, reversing out of my space, put it in drive, and the car began showing the same problems as before, not allowing me to accelerate.pulled over again and turn car off for five minutes.then tried it again.this time problem remained and did not go away.tried waiting a half hour and restarting unsuccessfully.had to call husband to help.he disconnected the battery and reconected it several minutes later.it seemed to take care of the problem.next morning planning to drive to dealer to get it fixed when the same thing happened again.again, my husband disconnected the battery and reconnected it.worked for awhile, pulled over on way to dealership and repeat same actions.finally made it to dealership.the traction control was engaging when it was not suppose to.the dealership charges us $400.00 to replace the mass flow sensor.seems like this could of resulted in an accident, and mazda should recall the cx-5 and replace the sensor before someone gets in an accident.
August 23, 2017: while driving my 2013 mazda cx-5 on the expressway at approximately 70mps (speed limit 75) the moon roof suddenly shattered while passing through an underpass. It was roughly 98f with clear skies and there was minimal traffic. When i pulled over to inspect the car for any damage i saw the moon roof shattered, like it had been blown out in the middle.
When turning off eng, via pressing the electronic start/stop button. The radio stays on. Unless you press the button to turn on the accessories, then pressing brake down, then moving the automatic shift lever from park to drive, to park again and pressing the start/stop button again, then the radio will turn off.this has been happening for many months.
Has to do with recall of thel lift gate damper recall 9916h. The lift gate dampers were replaced but the anchors they attach to in hatch were not and they are badly corroded. Saw this when the lift gate stays were replaced. Mazda service advisor said not his problem.
Front seat passenger's feet have been burned when they are lifted off the floor and touch something under glovebox area.this has happened to me, when i have sat in the passanger seat and other passangers. This happens to one person at a time, but happens often.i had the dealership look at it to see if there was something wrong and they said there is not yet a fix for it. This area heats up after the vehicle is running a while.
My car had an engine light after driving it for 43k mile.took it to my local mazda dealer and found out it has code p011a which required the coolant sensors replacement.had the work done which cost me about $600 but the engine light came back with the same error code.after speaking with their top level technician and management team it turn out the heater core was the main issue it was a missed diagnostic.so now the heater core is required which will cost me another $1800 to get it fix.if the heater core is not replaced the engine can over heat and also if the heater is turned up, it can slowly cook or suffocate the driver and passengers.with the safety concerns in mind i did some research and found out there are others reporting similar issue with seem to indicate the heater core might be a design flaw or defect from the start which require a replacement every 50k mile.
Car issueon may 6th 2018, i first experienced an issue with my vehicle not fully turning off the car while in park. I have a push button start on my car and after i put it in park, i pressed the push button to shut it off and it would not turn off. I want to exit the vehicle and it was beeping at me as if i did not turn off my car. And the light on the push button was orange. The car was in a state as if i was using the battery but did not have my engine on or ac. I put my foot on the brake, pressed the button to try to shut it off, and it turned my car back on then i pressed the foot on the brake to shut it off and it went back to using the battery only. I tried many different ways to shut off my vehicle and i still could not. I attempted this at least 5 times before my vehicle finally shut off. I put my car in park, go to shut off my car and it will not fully shut off. I attempted to shut it off seven times before i finally put my car in reverse put it in park and then my car shut off. I called my mazda dealership, and ask them what i would do in the future to fix this issue and they said they have never heard of this issue before. I looked up on the internet, and there's hundreds of people that have had this issue and all of them say that mazda says they've never heard of the issue. They urged me to come in, have my car diagnosed, and then they could try to see what is wrong with it. Because my car is no longer under warranty, i would be paying for something that might be a recall issue. How are there hundreds of people, blogs everywhere with the same issues as myself and no one has ever heard of it? this is now happening to me on a regular basis. I love this vehicle but i'm seconds away from getting rid of it. I've had enough. This is definitely a defect in the manufacturing of the vehicles.
I have had continuous issues with all four of my wheel bearings. After one went bad, i had to replace it. Two weeks later, i had to replace a second one, and then the final two wheel bearings had to be replace only a week after that. Upon taking it to one mechanic, i was told that this is a frequent problem with the mazda cx-5, and they get a lot of owners that come in to repair this issue. I did some research on my own, and realized that what the mechanic had told me was true. Apparently, a lot of mazda owners are having this issue. I called up an official mazda service center to inquire about this and the service technician had told me that they even get brand new cars (cx-5) with low mileage that are having the same problem, so it's not a mileage issue. They're constantly replacing the wheel bearings for the cx-5, regardless if the vehicle has low or high mileage. Unfortunately, my car is now out of warranty, so to replace each wheel bearing, it has cost me about $500 for each one. That is $2000 in repairs foraproblem that seems to be very consistent with a lot cx-5 models. I have owned other cars with three times the mileage without having such an issue. I think, perhaps, mazda should look into as a recurring issue across the board with many mazda owners. This sounds like a manufacturer defect that is of no fault to the owner. Perhaps mazda should consider releasing a recall for this defect.
Engine light, diagnostic code indicates heater core problem. System has been flushed at least 2 times and problem still reoccurs within a week. It has been a commuting inconvenience and my wife is fearful of driving the car with the engine light on.
This has been happening for the last 2 years. I've taken it to 2 different mazda dealerships for a total of 5 times and they cannot duplicate the issue or find any problems running diagnostics. My car has 50,000 miles on it and is a 2013 mazda cx-5. When i bought it had 20,000 miles on it and i started noticing a few months after i bought it. This issue happens mostly when:'i'm turning left from a complete stop'turning left while coasting toward a stop sign and then speeding up once it turns green'merging into traffic going left or right 'turning right from a complete stop or while coasting to the red light and speeding up once it turns greencar stalls/hesitates/lingers as if i'm not accelerating. As though the car was in neutral instead of drive. The rpm increases but the car does not move (unless it was already coasting and continues to move from momentum). It feels as though the transmission is not shifting quick enough into the right gear and i notice this while i'm usually at a lower speed trying to accelerate into traffic.i am often scared that a car will hit me from behind (or the side if i'm turning left) as i turn into traffic. It's the equivalent of someone turning into heavy traffic and then stopping. This will cause an accident and i'm hoping it doesn't take a fatal or near fatal accident before mazda realizes there is a definite problem with this car.
Bought in 2014 no problem till today went to mazda dealer said electrical problem buzzing sound when off and not when running now will not start at all having to have it towed his am help went in my garage and heard buzzing sound drove straight to dealer and was not buzzing while driving
3 times since pcm recall was completed- i have been driving on the highway 65mph, suddenly feel reduction in power, check engine light, low tire pressure lights and tractions stabilty warning lights come on.when the car is turned off, and restarted lights go out except check engine and car drives normal. By the time i get to pepboys they are unable to find a cause and the check engine light goes off.
This issue has occurred multiple times where i put my car into park (therefore being stationary), press the button to turn off the car and the car does not fully shut down. It appears to be a safety issue with the steering sensor not full recognizing that the car is in park and therefore not shutting off the car completely. In order to get the car to completely shut off, the car has to be shifted from drive to park/actively turning on and off the car sometimes as many as 5-6 times in order for it to fully shut down. I have read dozens of reports of other mazda owners experiencing the same problem. Cars being unintentionally left on is definitely a safety issue that needs to be looked into.
While driving on the freeway, my glass sunroof shattered.there was not any sort of object that fell through it, and it seems to have just been faulty.
Defective parking switch. Ignition fails to disengage even though the dashboard display shows the car is in park. At times the engine stays on; majority of the instances the engine shuts down but the ignition remains on with an audible alarm sounding when the driver's door is open. This problem drains the battery completely and requires disconnecting the battery to avoid the drain. Dangerous for everyone but particularly dangerous for those who are deaf when the engine runs or the ignition stays on and causes the battery to drain.the vehicle is parked when this occurs. At times continuing to turn on the engine, shifting through all options and back in to park solves the problem.several occasions when shifting back into park and turning off the ignition will not solve the problem.the problem started to occur randomly 10/16/2018 but occured with daily frequency on 9/9/2019, the repairs were made on 9/13/2019 when the mechanic found the technical service bulletin issues by mazda for this problem.
There was a recall on the lift gate stay damper. Recall was received oct. 2016 &has not been repaired. Tupelo mazda says there's no parts for it. This needs to be rectified asap. The recall says the lift gate can fall potentially causing injury, the stay dampers are faulty.
I first started hearing this screeching noise back in may 2015, after which i took it to the dealership thinking whatever it was could be covered under warranty.they came back saying that it was due to not having any rear brake pads left and my rotors were severely damaged.unfortunately, this was due to normal wear and tear and not covered under warranty.after fixing this, in august 2015, i started to hear the noise again.took it back to the same dealership complaining about the same noise.this time, they stated that it was my front brake pads.got this fixed as well.now it is september, and i hear the same exact screeching noise as i heard in may.i decided to have it checked at another dealership but unfortunately, due to how the prior dealership used an air impact wrench to put on my wheel locks, they were not able to remove them.it actually stripped the key and now i am stuck with another problem to fix.while there, we asked if this might be the reason behind the screeching that we hear, but the mechanic stated that there is a service bulletin out on the rear calipers, etc and to fix it if a customer complains.now my complaint is how is a customer supposed to be aware of this if it is not made known to us...and instead, the dealerships trick us into repeatedly returning to have it checked, taking time out of our busy work schedules.i also don't agree with at only 30k, i had to have all my brake pads changed already!all the other cars i've had, i did at around 50k.
Defective parking switch. Ignition fails to disengage even though the dashboard display shows the car is in park. At times the engine stays on; majority of the instances the engine shuts down but the ignition remains on with an audible alarm sounding when the driver's door is open. This problem drains the battery completely and requires disconnecting the battery to avoid the drain. Dangerous for everyone but particularly dangerous for those who are deaf when the engine runs or the ignition stays on and causes the battery to drain. The vehicle is parked when this occurs. At times continuing to turn on the engine, shifting through all options and back in to park solves the problem. Several occasions when shifting back into park and turning off the ignition will not solve the problem. The problem started to occur randomly but now occurs daily.since this issue i have replaced starter and battery with no affect. The mechanic found the technical service bulletin issues by mazda for this problem.
On may 6th 2018, i first experienced an issue with my vehicle not fully turning off the car while in park. I have a push button start on my car and after i put it in park, i pressed the push button to shut it off and it would not turn off. I want to exit the vehicle and it was beeping at me as if i did not turn off my car. And the light on the push button was orange. The car was in a state as if i was using the battery but did not have my engine on or ac. I put my foot on the brake, pressed the button to try to shut it off, and it turned my car back on then i pressed the foot on the brake to shut it off and it went back to using the battery only. I tried many different ways to shut off my vehicle and i still could not. I attempted this at least 5 times before my vehicle finally shut off. Today, it happened again. I put my car in park, went to shut off my car and it would not shut off. I attempted to shut it off seven times before i finally put my car in reverse put it in park and then my car shut off. I called my mazda dealership, and ask them what i would do in the future to fix this issue and they said they have never heard of this issue before. I looked up on the internet, and there's hundreds of people that have had this issue and all of them say that mazda says they've never heard of the issue. They urged me to come in, have my car diagnosed, and then they could try to see what is wrong with it. Because my car is no longer under warranty, i would be paying for something that might be a recall issue. How are there hundreds of people with the same issues as myself and no one has ever heard of it? note: i am canadian because it wouldn't give me the choice of a canadian province, i made up the postal code to coincide with alabama. Please let me know where i would file this in canada. Km were converted to miles
While driving my vehicle on the interstate the car lost the ability to accelerate. All of the dashboard lights came on and i had to coast to the side of the interstate. After restarting the vehicle i was able to drive it but i cannot take the vehicle over 30 mph now without it shuttering and having acceleration issues. This is a serious and life threatening issue that needs to be fixed free of charge. I have found other reports of this happening but i see no recall information. This needs to be fixed before mazda has lawsuits filed against them. This is a manufacturing error and not a usage error. Please look into this.
Was passing a semi-truck full throttle on a hilly 2 lane roadway.....engine shut down and multiple dash warning lights came on....was able to coast to a safe stop and turned off ignition and restarted vehicle. Very scary!! took the vehicle to the dealer and they could not find a problem.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5.the contact stated while driving at various speeds and decelerating, there was an abnormal winding and grinding noise detected. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for routine repairs on the axle and the mechanic was informed that the transmission was making an abnormal winding noise. The vehicle was taken to an independent transmission specialist where he was informed that the trans axle bearings needed to be replaced. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and informed that the repairs were not covered under warranty. The failure mileage was 84,000.
While changing lanes on highway from a stop, it felt as though the car was in neutral instead of drive. The rpm increased but the car did not move. I have also noticed upon sudden acceleration from around 30 that i get a similar response. Mazda states vehicle performing as by design. Car does not seem to down shift quick enough on acceleration.
The proximity of the pedals seem to be too close. Some footwear may snag when attempting to brakehave noticed twice since purchasing car on 9/22.
This has been happening for the last 2 years. I've taken it to 2 different mazda dealerships for a total of 5 times and they cannot duplicate the issue or find any problems running diagnostics. My car has 50,000 miles on it and is a 2013 mazda cx-5. When i bought it had 20,000 miles on it and i started noticing a few months after i bought it. This issue happens mostly when:'i'm turning left from a complete stop'turning left while coasting toward a stop sign and then speeding up once it turns green'merging into traffic going left or right 'turning right from a complete stop or while coasting to the red light and speeding up once it turns greencar stalls/hesitates/lingers as if i'm not accelerating. As though the car was in neutral instead of drive. The rpm increases but the car does not move (unless it was already coasting and continues to move from momentum). It feels as though the transmission is not shifting quick enough into the right gear and i notice this while i'm usually at a lower speed trying to accelerate into traffic.i am often scared that a car will hit me from behind (or the side if i'm turning left) as i turn into traffic. It's the equivalent of someone turning into heavy traffic and then stopping. This will cause an accident and i'm hoping it doesn't take a fatal or near fatal accident before mazda realizes there is a definite problem with this car.
Was driving normally when all of the sudden engine light came on and other lights in the cluster came on and the vehicle did not shift. Could not pass 20 mph. Had to stop the car and turn it off, later turn it on and just the engine light was lit. After getting home and letting the car cool down the problem went away.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx-5. While at an intersection, the vehicle accelerated without warning and crashed into the preceding vehicle. The fender on the contact's vehicle was damaged. There were no injuries and a police report was filed. The dealer and manufacturer were not contacted. The cause of the failure was not determined. The failure mileage was 44,000.
While the brake is held down with the left foot and a slight pressure is put on the gas pedal the car will suddenly surge forward.it can move about two feet before i get the brake on hard enough to stop the car.it feels as if the vehicle was struck hard from behind.the dealer has looked at it twice and suggested that the bog for "break over gas" logic system is being fooled by the combined pressure on the brake and gas at the same time, i.e., if, while both pedals are pressed, if the brake pressure is slightly released while the gas pedal is still slightly depressed the computer thinks the it has to "catch-up with the gas pedal and it surges forward.it has happened five times.it has never happened without both the brake and gas being simultaneously applied.it becomes a safety issue when it happens at a busy stop signedintersection while waiting to make a left turn across oncoming traffic, i.e., a pedestrian could be struck. I try to avoid this using this technique but it is a habit that i'm sure many drivers have.
I had just exited the freeway after driving 25 miles and was stopped at a stop light. When the light turned green and i stepped on the accelerator, the vehicle engine revved high and did not shift gears in the automatic transmission. I could not get the vehicle out of first gear or over 20 mph. I was able to get the vehicle to a safe location and once it had cooled overnight the transmission shifted normally. I did not drive it more than a block for fear it would happen again and the vehicle is currently at the dealership for repair.
Pulling in to parking space with foot on brake. Vehicle would not stop and couldn't turn the steering wheel. Car suddenly accelerated and jump curb and ran into side of building. Brake pedal was hard to press and even tried pumping brake, but vehicle would not stop. Engine speed did not change when pumping brake. Vehicle was only three weeks old and had a major malfuntion with braking and steering.
Traveling residential street approx 40mph.prepared to slow for upcoming light andtrafficapplied light pressure to brake vehicle started to slowfelt what thought was a downshift except accelerator went to floor and car acceleratedbrake fighting accelerationvehicle not slowingthought to shift into neutralengine raced wildly, vehicle came to stopmotor racing, hit off button and motor finally stopped.restarted and vehicle back to normalcalled dealer took for check next daymazda and independent contractor supposedly inspected found no problemchecked their black box no supporting data.concluded i was using 2 feet to drivei have driven for over 50 years and have never used 2 feet to drivei taught my children and helped teach my grandchildren and never allowed 2 feet to be used in driving.mazdas solution was to install a new data box to collect more data if it happened againwith no concern for my family and their safety or that of others on the roadsplus my insurance would be put at risk along with potential lawsuits against me personallyas i know mazda did not even attempt to figure what parts might cause this problema good company would troubleshoot the problem assess which parts could cause the problemreplace the most logical parts and try to solve the problem.mazda just wants to put the problem back on the road with no troubleshooting attempts or skills.i know one other person who's teenage daughter has had this happen twice and they say they can find no problemone of hers resulted in an accident.my case # [xxx] with mazdatoday i traded in this vehicle.mazda says the vehicle is safe although they declined to send me an email confirming thissorry to say it will probably be sold to some other unsuspecting person.hope no one gets hurt.information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
For the past 5 months my car will appear to have shut down while driving. I was driving on city streets going about 15 - 45 mph.i work from home or go to the office twice a week. I drive my kids to school during the week. I don't do much commuting. All electrical components shut down then reboot within seconds, and the car makes beeping sounds like i just started the car. The car will not stop or slow down, but if i come to a complete stop at a light, the car will be very slow to accelerate but i can get it back up to the speed limit after a very slow start.i have called aaa on one occasion and took it to a shop on another occasion. They both say it is battery related due to the wrong batter being installed but it is the battery size in the system of an orielys auto parts store. Every time i replace the battery and the issue appears to go away for a couple weeks to a month. The last battery replacement i purchased a stronger batter than in their system as per the advisement from the auto shop. It seemed to fix it again but after a month the car did the same thing.
While driving on the left lane of a busy los angeles highway at approximately 55mph, all of a sudden the accelerator stopped responding and my speed dropped rapidly. At the same time, the traction control and tire pressure lights turned on. Immediately, i turned on my hazard lights and pulled into the right lane. Unfortunately, i was in a tunnel with no shoulder. When the vehicle's forward momentum ran out, i came to a complete stop after cruising for approximately 100 feet. After my vehicle stopped, i was able to accelerate again and pulled off the highway. I turned the engine off, checked all tires (all looked normal), and restarted the engine. The warning lights were all off at this point, and the vehicle responded normally. This was a disturbing and dangerous situation. I will describe it at my 10,000-mile service, but it does not seem like others who have had this problem have been able to solicit an adequate response from mazda.
On 2 separate occasions (5/27/2017 and 6/15/2017) while on the freeway while in stop & go traffic, my vehicle suddenly seemed to lose power, and unable to go more than 20 mph. The tire pressure, traction control, emergency light comes on. Both times i have safely been able to make it to the shoulder. The first time, i had my car towed to auto repair shop. Their $300 diagnosis reported nothing wrong with the car. The second time, i turned my car off & on again on the shoulder. The check engine light stayed on and i and was able to drive to my destination. The check engine is now back off, but i have dropped it off at the same auto repair shop, and they are replacing an air flow sensor in hopes that this resolves the problem. This will cost us another $300. Both times i had my 18 month old in my car. I am deeply concerned.
5 seconds after starting the vehicle it suddenly went into unintended acceleration from 5mph to about 40 mph. I immediately applied the brakes but the car would not slow down or stop. I then shifted into neutral which did nothing, then shifted into park, which did nothing. Still applying the brakes i tried numerous times to shut (push botton) ignition off but that was unresponsive. I hit a street sign which slowed me down and the car finally came to a stop but the engine was still reving loudly for another solid minute. I again was pushing the ignition button and the car then suddenly turned off.
I was driving my mazda 2013 cx-5 on the highway, when it suddenly lost power and would not accelerate.i pressed the the accelerated all the way to the floor and my vehicle would not accelerate.the engine light, low tire, and traction symbols all were lid up on the dashboard.i drove the vehicle back home at 20 mph as this is the maximum top speed the vehicle would accelerate.i will check to see if there is a recall for this safety issue that can be life threatening.
Car fails to startx 2 but then starts.briefly, accelerate car as i merge on the fwy. Car begins decelerating, lurching so i struggle to steer tothe side of the fwy. Many warning lights flashing, no brakes, no steering ability. Turn of car. Try but unable to turn on car. Call towed. Mechanics say car starts right up and nothing wrong. Funky other little things like, i open rear hatch to put item in car (keys are in house). Attempt to close hatch but it won't latch. Obtain remote and try to use it to engage latch. No luck.last month, can't start car. Call aaa, technician starts car but says to replace batteries in remote. Take to dealer. Batteries fine and no findings. 4/17/14 start car and proceed to back up. All warning lights are on. Unable to steer or depress brakes. Turn off car. One hour later, car starts and all is copacetic.
When driving approximately 65mph or sometimes less the tire pressure, traction control, emergency light comes on. The car seems to lose power and shut down. It happens countless time twice with my two-year-old daughter on the highway. When i take it to the mechanic they run diagnostics test and can't pick up any codes. Because its not duplicating any issue they return the car to me after they reset all the computer. But the issue is still not resolved. I would lose power to the car and my brakes are sometimes not responsive. I would coast with my emergency light on until i can stop my car. Sometime my hazards light would frequently flash at a fast speed than stop. I took it to two mazda dealership to see if they can have resolved the issue but they cannot duplicated what going on. I did some research on my own and found countless complaints about the same issue i'm having and no mechanic can figure out the issue this car is junk.this have started the first week on dec. 2016 it has been in two shop over the past 4 month. The first shop i took it to had it for a whole month and the second shop had it for two week. At one point when i was told my car was fix i came to pick it up. The car would not start at all it was not even reading my keys. The car does not have 100k miles on it. I don't do a lot of driving. This is hazardous
While on a very busy road, all of a sudden the accelerator stopped working and my speed began to drop rapidly. At the same time, the traction control warning light and tire pressure warning light came on. It was as if the car had completely lost power. I was able to coast to the side of the road and turn the car completely off. I got out and checked all of the tires and they were fine. When i turned the car back on, the warning lights did not come back on and the car ran normally.
I was driving at the listed speed on the new jersey turnpike. Without warning, the vehicle went from sixth gear to fourth, rapidly losing speed in the far left lane. The tire pressure indicator light came on flashing, and the traction control light came on solid yellow. I pulled the vehicle onto the shoulder to check the tires, per the indicator, and noticed none of the tires was deflated. When i restarted the vehicle, the tire pressure and traction lights were solid yellow, along with the engine and "at" transmission light. While there was no noticeable effect on vehicle operation once restarted, i could not use the select-a-gear feature of my transmission. I was told at the dealership where i brought the vehicle that there were issues with the transmission control module, and that software updates were required. The vehicle was returned several days later, with the warning lights resolved, but told that they were uncertain as to whether it was a definitive fix. There have been no recurrences since the original incident.
At highway speeds the driver's side mirror shakes uncontrollably, rendering it virtually useless. Cars are all but a blur at and above 55 mph. The dealer said it is a known issue (and said he submitted a tsb) and did nothing to remedy the issue. When presented with the "repair guidance" reference # r042/13a, they said it was a fix for the "european cx-5, not the us version" and would not fix the problem.
Driving on freeway a small pebble hit the far right, mid level of windshield about 3 inches from edge. I heard a loud pop sound and then a small star-shape ding appeared. Within 5 minutes the crack grew to about 2.5 feet long.
Walked out to cracked windshield (1/4 way across vehicle) 6 months after purchased. Was told by dealer would not cover under warranty because of small nick at end of crack was thicker than dollar bill.4 months later, discovered chip in windshield. During fix, crack protruded from chip and whole windshield had to be replaced again.
Both rear view mirrors vibrate at speeds in excess of 30 mph. On highways the vibrating is so intense the mirrors are nearly useless as using them can be nauseating. The driver side mirror vibrates more than the passenger side mirror, but both noticeably vibrate.
The contact owns a 2013 mazda cx- 5. The contact was traveling 55 mph when the driver side external mirror vibrated.the vehicle was taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was contacted and the vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 10 and the current mileage was 1500.
2013 mazda cx-5.consumer writes in regards to heater core replacement issues.*ldupdated 06/20/2017
When driving over 40mph, the side view mirrors shake uncontrollably making me extremely dizzy and feeling disoriented. I can't use them at all and makes driving at that speed unsafe. I brought it to mazda to be fixed twice already. The first time, they acknowledged an issue but i had to come back because they needed to send the dealership the parts. When the parts were in, they tried the fix and then i was told it didn't resolve the issue. The fix was to the hood to stop the hood and mirrors from shaking. Apparently, mazda are aware of the issue and coming out with a new fix in the next month or so. This is a brand new car. All mileage so far has been me going back and forth to the dealership for this issue. I have not been able to enjoy the car at all and deem it unsafe for myself and my baby. I wrote to mazda customer service and received a disgusting response who began every sentence with "unfortunately"! "[xxx]"offered $100 in service coupons for the inconvenience without explaining what the issue is and how they attempt to fix it. I am extremely disappointed in mazda for many reasons...number one being advertising the car for safety features when clearly it isn't.they need to look at this very seriously and come up with a fix tried and tested for the safety of all passengers. If i had to go through a purchasing exercise again, i surely will not be buying mazda products.information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
I was traveling at 70mph on freeway with no other cars around me when sunroof imploded/exploded.glass flew all around inside the vehicle as well as outside onto the roadway.clear day and 60 degrees outside.most people would just continue to drive as i did, but i could see how a person could easily lost control and cause an accident.
While accelerating to 70 mph on an on-ramp to i-40, i heard a very loud pop.i had my sunroof completely open (withdrawn into vehicle roof) and windows down at the time.after hearing the loud pop, i checked to see if a rock had struck my windshield, and could find no evidence of such.when i went to close my sunroof, i looked up to see that the glass had completely shattered in-place.i was able to completely close the sunroof and pull the internal cover closed, and pulled off the highway.the vehicle was immediately towed to a mazda dealership, who is contacting mazda to work on the source of the problem.
We bought our cx-5 in april 2013. Last night when i went to get in my car i noticed a crack in the bottom middle of the windshield its about 12 inches long and curves like a hook. When i parked mycx-5 there was no crack. When we called dealer where we bought the car he stated "a rock hit it" without even looking at the crack. My husband let him know that a rock did not hit the windshield as it was sitting in our yard. I am worried that if i take my car up to the dealership they will do the pen test and state that it was caused by a rock.there are no stars or chips on the windshield. Would like to know if there is a way to confirm this crack before they do a pen test?
I was driving on the highway and i heard a sudden snap like sound on the windscreen, then i saw a star shaped stone chip appear on the windscreen, on the right side about an 1 inch from the side and about 7 inches from the bottom of the windscreen. I had driven no more than about 100 feet, when a crack about 12 inches was already there. My warranty covers stone chips and cracks less than 6 inches. There seem to be a defect with the cx 5 windscreens, because i have seem similar complaints by other owners in forums. Other vehicles you get a stone chip and it does not spread that quickly, at least you get a opportunity to go and get it repaired. I did not even get an opportunity to exit the highway and the stone chip had already spread in excess of 12 inches.
Bought my car with 40k miles on it from a mazda dealership in aurora colorado in 2017. I'm at 106k now and i thought i needed wheel bearings on the front driver side tire. Turns out it's the drive train and a transmission failing. My vehicle hums on the front driver side when i accelerate. This issue began just over 100k miles.
I first started hearing this screeching noise back in may 2015, after which i took it to the dealership thinking whatever it was could be covered under warranty.they came back saying that it was due to not having any rear brake pads left and my rotors were severely damaged.unfortunately, this was due to normal wear and tear and not covered under warranty.after fixing this, in august 2015, i started to hear the noise again.took it back to the same dealership complaining about the same noise.this time, they stated that it was my front brake pads.got this fixed as well.now it is september, and i hear the same exact screeching noise as i heard in may.i decided to have it checked at another dealership but unfortunately, due to how the prior dealership used an air impact wrench to put on my wheel locks, they were not able to remove them.it actually stripped the key and now i am stuck with another problem to fix.while there, we asked if this might be the reason behind the screeching that we hear, but the mechanic stated that there is a service bulletin out on the rear calipers, etc and to fix it if a customer complains.now my complaint is how is a customer supposed to be aware of this if it is not made known to us...and instead, the dealerships trick us into repeatedly returning to have it checked, taking time out of our busy work schedules.i also don't agree with at only 30k, i had to have all my brake pads changed already!all the other cars i've had, i did at around 50k.
I have had continuous issues with all four of my wheel bearings. After one went bad, i had to replace it. Two weeks later, i had to replace a second one, and then the final two wheel bearings had to be replace only a week after that. Upon taking it to one mechanic, i was told that this is a frequent problem with the mazda cx-5, and they get a lot of owners that come in to repair this issue. I did some research on my own, and realized that what the mechanic had told me was true. Apparently, a lot of mazda owners are having this issue. I called up an official mazda service center to inquire about this and the service technician had told me that they even get brand new cars (cx-5) with low mileage that are having the same problem, so it's not a mileage issue. They're constantly replacing the wheel bearings for the cx-5, regardless if the vehicle has low or high mileage. Unfortunately, my car is now out of warranty, so to replace each wheel bearing, it has cost me about $500 for each one. That is $2000 in repairs foraproblem that seems to be very consistent with a lot cx-5 models. I have owned other cars with three times the mileage without having such an issue. I think, perhaps, mazda should look into as a recurring issue across the board with many mazda owners. This sounds like a manufacturer defect that is of no fault to the owner. Perhaps mazda should consider releasing a recall for this defect.
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