We found the following complaints for FORD MUSTANG GT (2001)
Read complaints for FORD MUSTANG GT (2001)
The air bags in my 2001 ford mustang gt, deployed without cause. There was no impact or sudden stop. There was no reason for them to deploy. Ford says it that they deployed from an impact, yet there is no damage to the vehicle. They would not cover it under warranty and i had to go thru my insurance company to get them replaced.
I was driving through an alley going about 5-10 mph when i went over a small pothole and my suspension bottomed out and my airbags deployed. The airbags did not fully deploy and if this was an event of a real accident the airbags would have not did anything for safety. There is no damage to the vehicle at all.
While driving 25 mph consumer turned left on a road under construction and vehicle rolled across a stretch of gravel, it lost control and collided with a beam protruding from a retainer wall.seat belts were worn, but the front air bags did not deploy.consumer sustained minor back and head injuries. Police did arrive on the scene but the consumer was not cited.
The contact owns a 2001 ford mustang gt.while driving 45 mph, the contact swerved to avoid a dog in the road.the vehicle skidded into the grass, rolled over twice, and landed upside down.the air bags failed to deploy.the vehicle was destroyed.the contact sustained knee injuries and an injured back.he has not yet seen a doctor.a police report was filed.the contact has pictures and video footage available.the current and failure mileages were 40,000.
Dt: 2001 ford mustang gt, air bags did not deploy and the brakes would not work, causing consumer $6,840.60 worth of damage to front of vehicle, bumper and other materials was replaced.
Consumer's vehicle was traveling at 35 mph when it was struck by another vehicle.upon impact,air bags did not deploy.consumer sustainedhead and back injuries. Manufacturer sent an inspector, whostated air bags should not have deployed.
Wipers not working at times since we purchased, and ford company said they can not duplicate problem to fix.stereo and in-side light remain on after the key is removed since we purchased in 2001.we are having problems with the brakes and the air continuer is not working since 37,000.00 miles (warranty is up)!.
We had a deep snow storm last month and i got my 2001 mustang gt convertible stuck in the snow in my driveway.each time i tried to rock the vehicle back and forth to free it from the deep snow, the engine would power down.i finally realized that the "electronic traction control" was causing this.i turned it off and was able to free the vehicle.i think there is a connection between this and the brake problem i described before which caused me to hydro-plane and spin out in heavy rain.i wrote to you 12-24-03 with that complaint.
Engine idles about 3000 rpm at start up until engine is shut off.
At speeds of 45 mph or less, when downshifting and braking, the engine will stall. Power brakes, power steering, and a/c stop. Cannot "pop the clutch" to restart the motor. Must turn key to off and restart the vehicle. This is extremely dangerous as i have been downshifting and turning and have lost power steering in the turn and could hardly turn the wheel while the car was still in motion. This happens randomly and sporadically, and has done it since i purchased the vehicle new.
Driving on freeway suddenlycar got hot so i slowed down got into slow lane then shifted to neutral car stalled and would not restart engine seized.
While on freeway car started smoking so i exited freeway when car stalled and wouldn't restart. Had to tow back to car lot where i purchased car 3 days prior. Plastic intake manifold had a crack.
S # 1 sparkplug ejected from head upon engine start-up.
Blown ford spark plug! i drive a 2001 ford mustang gt, 4.6l v8, and one night i was sitting at a red light and as soon as it turned green i stepped on the gas like any other light and i blew a spark plug. I bought the car used with 10k on it and it blew at 56k. I never replaced the plugs so im guessing they were factory installed. As of today i have replaced both heads but the damage from the blown spark plug seems to have affected my engine block itself. My guess is from driving the car off the road into a parking lot. Not having money to rebuild the engine i have since parked the car hoping ford take responsibility for its mistake. I have read more and more how many ford v8s tend to do this yet ford acts like it doesn't exist. I called ford about ordering new heads and they insisted there is no problem. I was raised on fords but don't see me buying one ever again.
Spark plug blow out.
The contact owns 2001 ford mustang gt. The contact stated that while driving 20 mph, the spark plugs shot out of the engine. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who was unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure who did not offer any assistance. The vehicle was not repaired. The vin was not available. The failure mileage was unknown and the current mileage was 100,000.
While driving at 30 mph, the vehicle spark plug exploded out of the engine.
I just had to pay approx $700 to replace my intake manifold which cracked and caused a coolant leak.upon fixing this issue, i was informed that this was a ford recall a few years ago.seeing as this part has never been replaced on my vehicle, i would like more information on this recall and what can be done.
I don't know much about the mechanics of cars, but a spark plug blew out of my 2001 mustang gt causing a loud repetitive noise and a notable loss of power.it was still under the 30 day/3000 miles used vehicle warranty and it was fixed at no charge to myself.the same thing happened again a week later and i was told (in the best words that i can describe it) the threading in the hole of thepart of the engine that the spark plug screws into, would no longer hold the spark plug and that the engine needed to be sent to a machine shop to bore the hole in deeper costing a around $3000.00.
I started my vehicle in the morning and i heard a loud noise in the engine. I left the car like that and called my mechanic. When he checked the car, he found out that the spark plug was loose, he just put back. A couple of months later, i heard the noise in the engine again, i knew what the poblem was so i put the plug back in. Some months later (12/04) i had the same problem, but this time the plug wouldn't tighten, so i called my mechanic again. He checked the car and found out that the thread in the spark plug hole had stripped. I bought a spark plug thread kit and he was able to fix the engine, but the engine didn't perform the same.
I gave my car a tune up at a family friends shop spark plug broke so replaced it with a bosh platinum 4 which was all the local auto part had 6 months latter my car blows a plug out of the opposite side of the engine which had the original plug and i tow it back to the dealership the warranty refuses to fix it because after market plug on the other side and ford knows they have defective head and 4.6lt engines built fr:01-03 but refuse to fix it or even test it to see if it was defective since the after market plag was on the other side and the engine failed due to unknown reasons on the side with theoriginal plugs this applies to all vehicle from ford with 4.6lt 2v engines more info found here http://www.blueovalnews.com/2003/powertrain/4.6l.enginetick.t31604.htm *la (per consumer call (no smoke or flames); changed fire from yes to no - c. Rose 11/16/05
Started hearing a ticking noise coming from top part of the engine very next day the spark plug blew out of the cylinder head number 3, resulting in a cylinder head replacement .after reading all of the forum complaints that this is a defect, thank god mine was covered under warranty, still left with out a car for a week , no loaner or ental provided by dealer and i couldnt afford one.
At 7,853 miles, the engine started making a knocking noise.upon checking the dip stick, the stock was twisted out of shape, giving a reading of more oil than needed.the first service center that i took the car to stated that the car had 1 quart of oil, and could burn 1 quart of oil per 1,000 miles when new (nowhere was this noted in owner's manual, which recommends oil changes every 5,000 miles).oil change was performed, which did not remedy the situation.the next dealer that the car was taken to identified that the #8 bearing was worn, which required the engine to be replaced.ford would not honor their warranty, nor would the dealer or the customer service center in michigan answer any of the owner's questions, except that they would not cover the engine.owner was left purchasing a new engine on their own.
The contact owns a 2001 ford mustang gt.while driving various speeds, the vehicle idled roughly, overheated, and hesitated.the dealer stated that coolant was leaking from the intake manifold crossover channel.the technician also stated that there was a ford safety campaign that pertained to the failures he was experiencing.however, the stipulation of the safety campaign state that the vehicle must be within seven years of the original purchase date.the vehicle exceeds this stipulation by six weeks.the vehicle has not been repaired.the failure mileage was 125,000 and current mileage was 131,000.
While driving and with no warning headlight lenses will fog up, and it will be hard for consumer to see during night hours, causing consumer to have visual problems while driving. Dealer notified.
While driving at any speed and with no warning headlights will fog up and will not be bright enough. It will be hard for consumer to see while driving. Dealer notified.
Headlight plastic covers have become cloudy/hazed over the past year to the point where the headlights fail to properly illuminate the road causing hazardous driving conditions at night.i have contacted both my local dealer and ford motor corp. And have been instructed they will not pay for the repair as the vehicle is out of warranty.i feel since this is a safety issue not a cosmetic problem they should pay for new headlights.
Engine idles about 3000 rpm at start up until engine is shut off.
Since it has gotten colder, the car start and you have to sit with your foot on the gas pedal for 5 or 10 mins or the car will stall out when you try to put out of where ever you are.dangerous!mechanic can't seem to find the problem, they think its a sensor but are not sure.
When i filled my car with gas it started to overflow out of the top through the gas cap area and pour out of the bottom.i had my father check it about an hour later while it was parked and he couldn't find a leak.we determined the automatic stop on the pump must have failed.i went to put $20 of gas in it two days ago and once again it was pouring out of the bottom.since i didn't fill it up this time, i knew it had to be my car and not the pump.i had my mechanic look at it and he determined the fuel filler hose has rusted through all the way to the plastic cover around it.he told me my car is safe to be driven but not to put gas in.i've ordered the $184 part to repair it and am currently waiting for it to come in to the dealer.i found many complaints of this incident but no official recalls by ford.did i miss something somewhere?it seems to me if there are that many problems with this particular part of the car, ford would have done a recall.
Fuel pump breaks free from in-tank attachment point resulting in fuel level indicator malfunction and fuel starvation when corning, acceleration or abrupt deceleration.causes unexpected lag in acceleration or vehicle may stall at inopportune times. Since original replacement of entire fuel tank assembly by ford the fuel sender in this vehicle has been repaired/replaced 2 additional times. Dealership noted that the plastic ring sender attaches to cracks and only way to repair is to replace entire fuel tank at cost of approx $900. Most recent 2 replacements occurred outside of extended warranty by a few days and ford refused to replace under warranty even though the vehicle had been parked over the winter and issue was not discovered until vehicle came out of storage after the extended warranty had expired.repair had occurred in fall before vehicle went into storage.each time fuel tank is replace ring cracks again, usually within 30-90days. This is a hazard as it is impossible to determine when the vehicle will experience fuel starvation or stalling, possibly resulting in accident or injury outside drivers ability to avoid.
Fuel neck of 2001 mustang gt rusted through beneath a plastic black sheet possibly because of road salt build up. This lead to fuel leakage and emission code failure due to low tank pressure. The fuel neck and fuel neck gasket were changed.
The contact owns a 2001 ford mustang gt.the contact stated that when the gas tank was filled, fuel would leak back out of the vehicle.fuel would also leak onto the tail pipes and the shield surrounding the fuel tank.the dealer stated that the fuel tank shield needed to be replaced in order to keep the gasoline from leaking out of the vehicle at an estimated cost of $200.the failure and current mileages were 58,000. Updated 09/13/08.*ljupdated 09/16/08
Fuel neck began to leak, within 2 weeks it was loosing almost a gallon of fuel on a $20.00 fill. I contacted ford twice, i was told to take it to a ford dealership, i got an attitude from the dealership so i spent the $110.00 on a ford part and $180.00 on the labor at another service station. Advised ford of the safety hazard, apparently didn't concern them enough to contact me and make good on the repairs.
Dt*:the contact stated while driving 23 mph on a recently filled fuel tank, there was a strong smell of gasoline in the cab of the vehicle.a private repair shop inspected the vehicle, and determined that the filler neck gasket had split, causing gasoline to leak from the underside of the vehicle.there were no immediate repairs made to the vehicle.
I was losing a large amount of fuel every time i filled up. The leak starts immediately upon turning on the fuel nozzle. I am also experiencing a check fuel cap warning and a low pressure in the fuel system. This has caused the car to not start and several backfires when it does turn over. There is also fuel leaking directly onto my exhaust pipe at every fill up which could cause a fire. This leak was caused by the plastic cover over the metal filler neck. Moisture and dirt caught in the plastic caused the metal to erode and break a part.
Since purchasing my certified 2001 mustang gt (used) i have had problems with the steering pulling to the left during driving and/or braking.i took it to ford 8 times and finally they said it was the cambers and casters.after having it for a year i have had to continuously put steering fluid in.now ford has discovered that something called the steering rack was broke and leaking.also, the emergency break had become loose.and now there is a problem with a whining and swaying in the rear end.so far they can't find out what the whining is and found that the wheel bears were locking up.a diagnosis hasn't been made at this moment and it's still with ford for 4 days. *nlm
About 6-8 months after i purchased my 2001 ford mustang bullittmy transmission went out and had to have it replaced because 3 gear would not engage with ease or it would slip..ever since the shifting of gears has deteriorated..also the rear leaks for no apparent reason the access nut seems to come loose and leak with out a cause, i have had to replace the rear nut and oil were the driveline meets the rear axle. It is very difficult to put the car in 1st or in reverse some times and when shifting between 1st 2nd and 3rd the gears stick or slip. I had a number of issues since day one with this car and it spent a lot of time in the shop the first two years i owed it and sat for a little over a year due to mechanical problem there after. I was rear ended once while trying to make a right hand turn because the car slipped out of second gear luckily the driver was able to slow down enough to only leave his license place screws imprinted in my rear bumper and no one was seriously hurt just stunned and frightened.
2001 mustang gt with automatic transmission displays an extended-hard-grinding shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear especially after making a right turn.also when cruising at normal highway speeds the transmission makes a hesitant clanking noise which jerks the car slighlty if one's foot is taken off the gas pedal for a few seconds and then clankagain when speed is resumed when depressing the gas pedal. This problem began soon after purchase of the new car and still exits now with 48,000 miles on it.* cb
About 6-8 months after i purchased my 2001 ford mustang bullittmy transmission went out and had to have it replaced because 3 gear would not engage with ease or it would slip..ever since the shifting of gears has deteriorated..also the rear leaks for no apparent reason the access nut seems to come loose and leak with out a cause, i have had to replace the rear nut and oil were the driveline meets the rear axle. It is very difficult to put the car in 1st or in reverse some times and when shifting between 1st 2nd and 3rd the gears stick or slip. I had a number of issues since day one with this car and it spent a lot of time in the shop the first two years i owed it and sat for a little over a year due to mechanical problem there after. I was rear ended once while trying to make a right hand turn because the car slipped out of second gear luckily the driver was able to slow down enough to only leave his license place screws imprinted in my rear bumper and no one was seriously hurt just stunned and frightened.
Defective window channel - driver side.replaced 2/1/02.now the window will not go up nor down (after warranty has run).also clunking noise under hood when stopping or accelerating 1/02.cause per dealer:rear transmission mount bolts loose.they were tightened and the problem was resolved.
About 6-8 months after i purchased my 2001 ford mustang bullittmy transmission went out and had to have it replaced because 3 gear would not engage with ease or it would slip..ever since the shifting of gears has deteriorated..also the rear leaks for no apparent reason the access nut seems to come loose and leak with out a cause, i have had to replace the rear nut and oil were the driveline meets the rear axle. It is very difficult to put the car in 1st or in reverse some times and when shifting between 1st 2nd and 3rd the gears stick or slip. I had a number of issues since day one with this car and it spent a lot of time in the shop the first two years i owed it and sat for a little over a year due to mechanical problem there after. I was rear ended once while trying to make a right hand turn because the car slipped out of second gear luckily the driver was able to slow down enough to only leave his license place screws imprinted in my rear bumper and no one was seriously hurt just stunned and frightened.
Seat belt on passenger side always retracted sluggishly since new, often just hanging loosely from the upper hanger.then it would retract with help.finally it jammed and will not release in order to connect the belt for use.when an attempt is made to use the belt, i hear a metallic clunk and the belt will not come out far enough to use.
Driver's side seatbelt keeps tangling within the trim panels preventing proper deployment or retraction of the belt.i had to remove the trim panels and manually twist the belt through the b post guide to straighten, as well undoing and redoing the anchor bolts on the b post and driver lower door sill several times over the last few years.
Drivers side seat belt gets twisted in wall, and does not retract properly as a result.thoroughbred ford untwisted, and then the seat belt twisted up again.thoroughbred ford states is under warranty, not defective, however state ford refuses to replace unit as this is not a defect.even refused after reminding them it does not function properly which could result in death during collision.first repair on or about 8-29-05, second attempt to have replaced approx. 2 weeks later.
-the contact owns a 2001 ford mustang gt. The vehicle was stationary, when the contact observed the front passenger seat belt retractor system failed to extract the webbing properly. The webbing does not secure the occupant tightly. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The failure was related to broken plastic parts within the retractor system. The vehicle had not been repaired at the time of the complaint. The failure mileage was 57,000. The current mileage was 75,000.
Faulty seatbelts.the belts won't roll up when i release it.
Wipers not working at times since we purchased, and ford company said they can not duplicate problem to fix.stereo and in-side light remain on after the key is removed since we purchased in 2001.we are having problems with the brakes and the air continuer is not working since 37,000.00 miles (warranty is up)!.
A loud fog horn sound coming from under the hood. Raised rpm helped to reduce or stop noise. The abs light (amber) comes on and disengages the traction loc for the rear end (drive wheels). Over a period of approx. 1 month the abs light stays on with tracloc disengaged.i got the system checked and they stated no electric signal is coming out of the control module but power is going in. I was told for a more detailed analysis i should take it to ford because there are 2 items that could be replaced and it could be $2600.00 or more.
Brakes failed at 3-5 mph. Dealer determinedframe had not been welded properly, and this caused brake line to crack, leaking brake fluid.
The rear tires of my 2001 ford mustang gt convertible began to skid, since the road was wet.this is understandable, so i eased off the gas to allow the tires to catch, but the traction control must have turned on, and caused my car to begin spinning in circles.this made my car go off the road and into a tree.i believe the traction contrl system is faulty.
Dt: 2001 ford mustang gt, air bags did not deploy and the brakes would not work, causing consumer $6,840.60 worth of damage to front of vehicle, bumper and other materials was replaced.
Brakes failed at 3-5 mph. Dealer determinedframe had not been welded properly, and this caused brake line to crack, leaking brake fluid.
Dt*:the contact stated while driving 55 mph the rear end of the vehicle fishtailed from side to side which made the vehicle difficult to control.it was taken to the dealership for inspection; however the problem could not be duplicated.the vehicle was taken to an independent repair shop.the mechanic determined the right rear brake line and the lateral arm support bracket needed to be replaced.the manufacturer was alerted however, no repairs have been made.
Family friend killed in an automobile accident request nhtsa investigate the ford mustang gt model year 2001 steering wheel lockup at speeds over 40 mph.*mr
Since purchasing my certified 2001 mustang gt (used) i have had problems with the steering pulling to the left during driving and/or braking.i took it to ford 8 times and finally they said it was the cambers and casters.after having it for a year i have had to continuously put steering fluid in.now ford has discovered that something called the steering rack was broke and leaking.also, the emergency break had become loose.and now there is a problem with a whining and swaying in the rear end.so far they can't find out what the whining is and found that the wheel bears were locking up.a diagnosis hasn't been made at this moment and it's still with ford for 4 days. *nlm
Janine c. Miller is writing on behalf of serena beeton with concerns about steering locking up on ford mustang gt.*mrrefer to odi# 10024303*scc
Ltr on behalf of serena beeton requesting an investigation re the locking of the steering on the 2001 ford mustang gt.*mr*scc
Consumer states that while driving over 40 mph and applying the brakes, the steering wheel will rock side to side vibrating heavily and it will become hard for the consumer to control the vehicle.dealer has been notified.mrthe consumer states while braking to a normal stop, the vehicle unexpectedly will pull to the right.at various speeds navigating a slight right turn, the vehicle pulls to the left if you touch the brake pedal.the consumer noticed a puddle of lubricant under the vehicle and saw that lubricant was sprayed all about the chasis.ford replaced the hydraulic brake booster.the vehicle continued to pull.the dealer are unsure of exactly what the problem was, they also checked a bulletin which states check the alignment, which was reset-was off, and the rear air press to 25 ps.the consumer doesn't drive the vehicle far since they never found the problem.*scc
Rear spoiler cracking along seams.
Right rear bracket which is welded to floor pan and connects rear axle has had a weld fail and subsequently cracked the bracket.ford waiting for factory service rep to visit to determine failure cause and repair process.car may be unavailable for over a week. *nlm
Brakes failed at 3-5 mph. Dealer determinedframe had not been welded properly, and this caused brake line to crack, leaking brake fluid.
Stopping for red light and brakes failed, brake pad to floor no injuries.our mechanic diagnosed brake line was severed from rear right upper control arm weld failure caused bracket to break, cutting break line.took car to dealership where purchased 2 months earlier.after dealership said it was fault of driver (said warranty would not cover) we investigated this matter and found 2 other reports on nhtsa, then dealership agreed to fix problem.we are very dissatified with the handling of this serious problem from dealership.
Consumer states that while driving over 40 mph and applying the brakes, the steering wheel will rock side to side vibrating heavily and it will become hard for the consumer to control the vehicle.dealer has been notified.mrthe consumer states while braking to a normal stop, the vehicle unexpectedly will pull to the right.at various speeds navigating a slight right turn, the vehicle pulls to the left if you touch the brake pedal.the consumer noticed a puddle of lubricant under the vehicle and saw that lubricant was sprayed all about the chasis.ford replaced the hydraulic brake booster.the vehicle continued to pull.the dealer are unsure of exactly what the problem was, they also checked a bulletin which states check the alignment, which was reset-was off, and the rear air press to 25 ps.the consumer doesn't drive the vehicle far since they never found the problem.*scc
Dt*:the contact stated while driving 55 mph the rear end of the vehicle fishtailed from side to side which made the vehicle difficult to control.it was taken to the dealership for inspection; however the problem could not be duplicated.the vehicle was taken to an independent repair shop.the mechanic determined the right rear brake line and the lateral arm support bracket needed to be replaced.the manufacturer was alerted however, no repairs have been made.
Since purchasing my certified 2001 mustang gt (used) i have had problems with the steering pulling to the left during driving and/or braking.i took it to ford 8 times and finally they said it was the cambers and casters.after having it for a year i have had to continuously put steering fluid in.now ford has discovered that something called the steering rack was broke and leaking.also, the emergency break had become loose.and now there is a problem with a whining and swaying in the rear end.so far they can't find out what the whining is and found that the wheel bears were locking up.a diagnosis hasn't been made at this moment and it's still with ford for 4 days. *nlm
A letter was sent to governor mark warner and other elected officials regarding concerns about the possible mechanical defect which contributed to the tragic accident which involved ms. Beeton and her fiance'.*mr*scc
Driving on freeway suddenlycar got hot so i slowed down got into slow lane then shifted to neutral car stalled and would not restart engine seized.
Defective window channel - driver side.replaced 2/1/02.now the window will not go up nor down (after warranty has run).also clunking noise under hood when stopping or accelerating 1/02.cause per dealer:rear transmission mount bolts loose.they were tightened and the problem was resolved.
Sprayers come on when turning the vehicle while wipers are on.they stick in this position to where you have to pull knob out to stop.this occur's w/o touching the signal arm.also happens when hitting good bump in road.
Wipers not working at times since we purchased, and ford company said they can not duplicate problem to fix.stereo and in-side light remain on after the key is removed since we purchased in 2001.we are having problems with the brakes and the air continuer is not working since 37,000.00 miles (warranty is up)!.
Read more
