We found the following complaints for FORD ESCAPE (2006)
Read complaints for FORD ESCAPE (2006)
I bought the vehicle on september 4,2015 all these problem started 1 month after.manuel transmission gets to rough at times when being shifted into 1st gear and reverse gets stuck and hard to shift, might be part of the recall no# 15s28 the engine oil seems to use 1qt a week, recently had a changed oil but continues to use the same every week, mileage is at 132467. The air bag for passenger light continues to light up and goes off when driven. A banging noise when driven on the road at rear shock absorbers are located, the shocks are still new.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact was driving approximately 65 mph when she was struck from the drivers side and then crashed into a concrete barrier. The vehicle was spun around into oncoming traffic as she then crashed into a second concrete barrier. The air bags did not deploy. The contact sustained minor injuries but was not transported to the hospital. A police report was filed. The vehicle was destroyed. The manufacturer was not contacted in regards to the failure. The failure and current mileage was approximately 85,200.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while parking at 5 mph, the vehicle suddenly accelerated and crashed into a wall. The air bags failed to deploy. The contact sustained bruises to the chest that did not require medical attention. A police report was not filed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the failure was unable to be determined. The vehicle was then taken to a dealer who stated that the failure might be related to the throttle body. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 75,000. The vin was not available.
2006 ford escape.consumer writes in regards to non-deployment of air bags, during accident. The consumer stated the vehicle rolled over several times. He was seriously injured and his wife was killed. Updated 07/27/15. Updated 03/11/15. Updated 08/23/2017*ct
Driving down a street in my neighborhood when the brakes failed. In previous occurrences i was told that the calipers froze up and that the brakes would make a grinding noise. Also the computer system on the vehicle would never record the proper amount of fuel in the tank or at times engage the brakes. I am not a professional but i know this vehicle did have issues. The vehicle was in motion on a city street and when i applied the brakes nothing happened. Upon impact it appeared i hit the steering wheel before the airbag deployed. I had my seat belt on. I have driven down that city road thousands of times but it appeared this time there was a issue with he vehicle that caused this accident. Injuries were airbag related.
I own a 2006 ford escape xlt with 100,000 miles. 90% highway miles, well maintained with dealer or independent mechanic. Have all paper work. "my biggest worry is the stalling for no reason and an accident happening and this should be a recall issue". Jan. 2015 i had a intake and valve oil leak that was fixed 3 times, jan, feb and march. When i took it to the dealer in march, i mentioned that my vehicle had stalled in my driveway after a 30 minute highway drive from work. They put it on the computer and said there was no code for a stall. Dealer said ford sent them notice describing my same issue but couldn't confirm it was the torque converter. April 10th 2015 i was out of extended warranty. The stalling happened again late april, took to dealer again. Dealer said no codes again. Took straight to uncle after leaving dealer for him to look at and couldn't get the vehicle to stall after a week of having it. I've read online forums of people replacing transmission multiple times for torque converter and other issues within the transmission. Also, after 3 deer ran out in front of me 2 years ago, repairs done to physical damage and passenger seatbelt replaced twice during repairs, passenger seatbelt and airbag lights come on and seatbelt alert beeps while driving even know the passenger has the seatbelt on. I have to park, shut down, buckle seatbelt and then start again and this worked except for one time i had to repeat this a second time. Dealer said there was no codes for airbags or seat belts. Ford has not been notified yet. Also, when i bought the vehicle brand new i had the underbody sprayed but the rear wheel wells are rusting from underneath to outer body and rusting under front doors too.
I was broadsided and knocked into a utility pole. The front end was wrapped around the utility pole. I was driving my mother's 2001 ford escape. The air bags did not deploy at any time. Due to this my chest and left shoulder were injured greatly. I had to be cut out of the suv.when the police arrived i heard them mention that the air bag did not deploy and told them to be careful when cutting me out of the vehicle. I was taken to the er on the day of the accident and on the next day i had to go back because of head and chest pains. I do believe if the air bags had deployed my injured would have been lesser. I have great bills because my mother's insurance did not pay the bills, because i did not live in the house with her. I have pictures of the wrecked vehicle.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the passenger side air bag light illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The technician diagnosed that the occupant sensor service kit would need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 135,000. Updated 8/28/15updated 10/14/15
The passenger airbag light flickers on and off and then it will stay on and a loud indication noise will turn on and off.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving, he was hit on the driver side by another vehicle and none of air bags deployed. The vehicle was totalled. Three people were injured. No one inspected the vehicle to find out why the air bags did not deploy. He called the manufacturer and filed a complaint. No action was taken at the time of the complaint. The current and failure mileages were 92,180.
In 2011, i purchased my used 2006 ford escape. About 3 months after purchase, i noticed the passenger side air bag light would activate when an adult would sit in the passenger seat, signifying the air bag was "off" when it should be activated. Today i had my local ford dealer check the air bag to see if it worked properly. They discovered that not only would the air bag not operate properly in a crash, the seat belt would also fail to lock as it should during a sudden stop or crash. Since there is no recall issued and the vehicle is out of warranty, the cost to repair the seat belt and air bag is all my responsibility. There should be a recall issued for this vehicle and any others known to have this problem. I was told it took a certain number of vehicles to be diagnosed with the same problem before any agency would issue a recall. Even one vehicle with this problem should prompt a recall, because technically, this malfunction could cause serious injury or death in the event of a crash.
I was broadsided and knocked into a utility pole. The front end was wrapped around the utility pole. I was driving my mother's 2001 ford escape. The air bags did not deploy at any time. Due to this my chest and left shoulder were injured greatly. I had to be cut out of the suv.when the police arrived i heard them mention that the air bag did not deploy and told them to be careful when cutting me out of the vehicle. I was taken to the er on the day of the accident and on the next day i had to go back because of head and chest pains. I do believe if the air bags had deployed my injured would have been lesser. I have great bills because my mother's insurance did not pay the bills, because i did not live in the house with her. I have pictures of the wrecked vehicle.
Dt*: the contact stated while driving 55 mph on dry road conditions at 8:02 pm, the front left corner of the vehicle struck another vehicle, causing the contact to run off the road.the seatbelt was worn and both fog lights and head lamps were illuminated.the bottom portion air bag partially deployed, but the top portion failed to open.the seat belt did not lock, resulting in impact with the steering wheel causing two fractures of the sternum, a hematoma to the left chest, and fractures to the left shoulder, as well as, heavy bruising to the forehead.the vehicle was towed to an impound and a police report was taken.photographs were taken of the vehicle and the contact was taken to the hospital.the vehicle was towed to the service dealer for repairs and manufacturer was notified.repairs were made prior to the manufacturer's engineer inspecting the vehicle and the service dealer refused to provide the contact with the defective parts.
I was driving with my cruise control on.i tapped my brakes to disengage my cruise control and they locked long enough to send me into a fishtail. I over-corrected to come out of the fishtail and the escape started rolling.the airbags never deployed even though the escape rolled six times and was totaled while still under factory warranty.my daughter received some minor scratches on her hands. I dislocated my left thumb, broke my left shoulder in four places, snapped my left femur in half, shattered the bottom third of my left tibia, and had a hairline fracture to my right tibia just below the knee.i was also thirty-five weeks pregnant and the baby died do to trauma from the crash. The accident occurred october 7, 2008 and i am still in the hospital as i am writing this complaint on january 4, 2009.ford refuses to come look at the escape to figure out why the airbags never deployed.
We had an accident in my 2006 xls escape, struck a tree . We had our safety belts on and after the impact my boyfriend had cpr on the side of the road where the incident occurred, he was not breathing. Neither front airbags deployed yet the steering wheel was broke nd the wiper unit???the damage to the car was extensive, almost totaling it, the damage was about$9000 dollars. The only reason it was not totaled because the suv had only 28,500 miles on it and had been very well taken care of and serviced regularly by only ford technicians.i bought the car for well over 26,000 dollars. The passengers airbag light would always come on if i sat in the passenger's seat. I had it checked out 2 times by ford, but they could find nothing. I noticed when the light did come on i hd to adjust my seat back and forth then the light went off.i now have it back , a new steering wheel /airbag system had to be replaced along with all the other damages. I have pictures of the suv with the damages before it was fixed.
On 12/7/05, the main air bag light lit up on the dash.in accordance with the owner's manual, the vehicle was taken to the dealer for repair.the problem occurred with only 542 miles driven on the vehicle.this vehicle was purchased as a replacement to a 2005 ford escape that had this same chronic problem, which could not be repaired by ford after six repair attempts.the 2005 vehicle was bought back by the manufacturer and at no time was a pattern of repairs to this type of vehicle disclosed to me prior to purchase of a replacement vehicle.when the 2006 vehicle was taken in for repairs, we were advised that the dealer currently has seven vehicles with this same problem and that they are attempting to correct the problem.if we had known about pre-existing safety component problems with this model, we likely would not have purchased a replacement.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that as he closed the right passenger side door, the rear right and left passenger side air bags deployed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who performed a diagnostic test and stated that they were unable to determine what caused the air bags to deploy. The manufacturer stated that the repair had to be approved by the general counsel of ford. He had not received a follow up call when the complaint was filed.there are no recalls or warranties related to the failure. The failure mileage was 60,000.
After starting the vehicle it has to be warmer up for about 30 minutes or more, in order for the gas pedal to press down so the vehicle will move. The gas pedal will not move at all. It has to be warmed up in the summer months and well as the winter months in order for the vehicle to move. The gas pedal is so hard to press that it like trying to press your foot through abrick wall. Itdoes this even when at a stand still when trying to accelerator for any speed. It just will not move. This is dangerous for me and my family. Please help !!!
My 2006 ford escape hybrid is stalling on the highway creating an unsafe condition. This seems to be due to a fault in the external hybrid inverter cooling pump. This has occurred 5+ times,usually during 70 degree (f) + temps. I've contacted the local dealership & ford motor corp ran the vin,with no recall. Please investigate.
I was driving from work to the bank to make the daily deposits, when i pulled into a parking space in the bank parking lot i noticed a lot of smoke coming out from under my hood, i immediately got the outside security guard to come take a look and when he raised the hood my car was on fire. If you are standing in front of the car looking in it would be the left side, he immediately called the fire department who came and put it out, my car is now sitting at the dealership.
This has happened 3 times now, 2 in southern california on the freeway at night. Hybrid vehicle has recall problems which makes vehicle stop running. Had it fixed, paid out of my own pocket in southern california and thought problem was fixed. Something to do with battery. Then on friday, dec. 12, it happened again as i was driving home from college, the vehicle stopped suddenly. I couldn't pull over, it won't restart even after many attempts. I waited 5 to 25 minutes, vehicle would not start. Finally had to call a tow truck to closest ford dealer. I thought dealer could fix problem after having it all day but when i left and headed on highway, my hybrid vehicle stalled again on the highway. I have ptsd from this car, i never want to get in it. I don't trust it and after 3 different ford dealers, all of my own money to pay, car still doesn't work properly. I paid a premium to purchase this vehicle and it is worthless. Now i am receiving more recall notices about the airbags. I am afraid to drive my vehicle because if it stalls again i might be in a horrific accident as it stops suddenly with no warning whatsoever.
Problems with gas pedal sticking/ locking up. While driving and sometimes when idle dash lights, a/c and radio turn on and off, then there was a clicking sound before the actual engine shuts off.
I drove my car around the corner to a friend's house.i started to smell something burning.i pulled into my friend's driveway and stopped, but the car was still running and i saw smoke coming from under the floor area and dash of the car.smoke filled up the inside of the car.i turned off the car and opened all the doors.had i not turned it off, it would have caught on fire as it was smoking really bad and extremely hot inside the interior of the cab.the fuse box was blown and all the wiring under the dash was destroyed, so the fire was likely due to an electrical malfunction.the car was able to start but nothing in the dash area was working - the speedometer and gauges will no longer function.i am not driving it due to safety issues and am having it checked by a mechanic.
Wife was driving her 2003 ford escape 2.3l xls (fwd, 5-spd manual) at 65mph, practically coasting down a hill. 26 minutes after engine start she heard a loud bang and subsequent popping sounds. This was followed immediately by severe power loss from the engine. She drove it to the next best off-ramp, an additional 2 miles. When she got off the freeway she says she had to rev it up quite a bit to make an intersection to get to the gas station where the car rolled to a stop.that loud bang turned up to be the nbr 3 cylinder blowing its spark plug clean off the spark plug bore. The spark plug bore was completely threadless. The subsequent popping sounds were due to the spark plug not being on the nbr 3 cylinder as the fuel that continued to spray into the cylinder was burning off. The immediate power loss is a direct result of the engine loosing 25% of its chugga-chugga and the loss of the cht sensor signal which both then caused the pcm (powertrain control module) to go into limp mode and further reduce engine power.first thing i did was plug in my obdii scanner and check for codes. I found the following three: p0303 - cylinder 3 three misfire. P0353 - ignition coil 'c' primary/secondary circuit. P1289 - cylinder head temp sensor high input.i then performed a koeo (key-on/engine-off) check with my obdii scanner and found the following two codes: p0119 - engine coolant temperature circuit intermittent/erratic. P1289 - cylinder head temp sensor high input.the cht probe (cylinder head temperature) cover/boot was popped off the engine camshaft cover and the wires were broken off the cht probe electrical connector. The spark plug terminal broke off. The ignition coil pack was severely damaged (looked like an exploded cigar, cartoon style).
Pulling into a parking lot with my 2 year old granddaughter and daughter when my car stalled. Thinking quick, i put the car into neutral so i could steer and restart.my car has been in the garage 4 times and a$1000.00 of work putinto it to try and fix the problem,to this day it still stalls!!!!!! no one knows what's wrong with it!!!!!
At less than 28000 miles, the 06 ford escape limited produced a sharp, short scraping noise at the first turn of the starter. It mostly does it on the first start, but not always. Took it to jones west ford in reno and their comment was "all escapes do that". I'm retired, and will be driving this machine for a long time. I'd like it to be dependable. The sound isn't "normal" for any car. The dealership should have found the problem. (the car runs well other than that ).help?
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 35 mph the gauge began to fluctuate erratically. The abs and battery light illuminated on the instrument panel and the windows could not be opened or closed. The door locks also would not engage. The failures would occur at the same time and also independently. The failure occurred intermittently. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the technicians replaced the pcm board. Immediately after the repairs were made the failure continued to occur. The technicians suggested that the alternator be replaced. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the alternator was replaced; yet, it did not correct the failure. The battery was replaced when the vehicle failed to start. When the cobattery was replaced,the vehicle started but the electrical failures continued. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 54,576.
I have a 2006 ford escape. My car alarm started going off on it's own for a few days. Then the car "ajar door" light came on while i was driving from a doctors appointment.so i took the car into a ford dealership to get the problem inspected.i was told that there was a right rear door fault.so i asked him to explain.the tech said that ford had redesigned the rear door latch and that it requires a new cable which will cost me $404.00 to replace.needless to say my jaw hit the floor, because that was just one door.apparently, after searching online for a cheaper solution, i came across so many complaints of the same problem since 2001.evidently ford have not solve the problem. It's a safety hazard.if the rear door latch is likely to go bad then it's jeopardizing the safety of the children that's required to sit in the back seat.it probably would be so bad if it were cheaper to replace, but $404.00 is ridiculously high.if they knew that they had to redesign the latches a recall should have been made.
Driving down a street in my neighborhood when the brakes failed. In previous occurrences i was told that the calipers froze up and that the brakes would make a grinding noise. Also the computer system on the vehicle would never record the proper amount of fuel in the tank or at times engage the brakes. I am not a professional but i know this vehicle did have issues. The vehicle was in motion on a city street and when i applied the brakes nothing happened. Upon impact it appeared i hit the steering wheel before the airbag deployed. I had my seat belt on. I have driven down that city road thousands of times but it appeared this time there was a issue with he vehicle that caused this accident. Injuries were airbag related.
On feb 14th, 2013, on my way to work, my car radio went complete dead...then as i was approaching an intersection, my car 'surged' like it was going "on & off".i prayed to get to get out of harms way enough to pull my car over, as soon as i did, all the lights started flashing and there was a constant 'clicking sound'.i called a town truck and had my car towed to my car repair place.turns out i needed an new alternator.after spending $550 + to have it fixed, the following week, on tuesday, feb 19th, my car died.again, having it towed to my car repair again, it turns out that the electrical system needed replacing.i only have 67k on my car and after spending another $600 to fix, i am not a happy consumer!ford should reimburse me for these costs.now, my car is fixed and as much as i loved it, i am not confident driving it anymore. Unless ford reimburses me, i will never buy another escape again, nor will i tell everyone about how wonderful of a vehicle they are because they aren't and when you spend that much money on a car...well, when something costly happens like that, the vehicle should be replaced by ford with no cost to the consumer.an extra $1200 out of my pocket means my family has to go without food.
I own a 2006 escape.since the summer of 2009, the sunroof seems to open 'at will'.i close it with difficulty (the rear part will not close completely; if it does the front partis ajar.when it does close completely, it eventually opens again.
Vehicle was being driven and without warning when brakes were applied the pedal went all the way to the floor.the abs light then came on.my child was being transported in the car and an accident almost occurred.towed car to mechanic and discovered this has happened to a lot of people, yet when i checked there was no active recall on this item.shop says it needs a new ford oem abs module assembly 3f2z2c219ab. Updated 7/24/18
Without warning transmission completely fails. No indication of problems, just dropped the transmission on the way to work.thank goodness there was no traffic behind us or we were in an intersection.just completely stopped pulling while traveling down the road at 45 mph. Transmission rebuilt. Since then and still currently the charging light stays on constantly.has been in the automotive repair shop for a month and no one can find a problem or match the codes with an apparent problem.on it's way to a second shop for another opinion.idles high both in park and in gear, constant vibration inside the vehicle (steering wheel, dash, console etc.). Dash/speedometer makes humming noise in the afternoons. Alarm has randomly gone off twice and interior lights would not go out on their own - had to turn off manually."right rear door ajar" or "lift gate ajar" messages were displayed, but the doors were fine.message did not reset when re-closing the doors, just reset eventually on its own. Gas mileage has dropped to 15 mpg.radio volume will not come down.get louder if you touch it.this problem has been going on awhile, but now with everything else possibly electrically going on, don't know if it's related.we've already spent around $2000.00 on it and i still don't feel safe to drive it, especially after reviewing all the complaints this model escape has had.without diagnosis of a problem, i fear it may escalate to other computer issues and cause far worse driving/safety problems. Undetermined electrical/interior going crazy seems to be a common complaint even when what appears to be the problem is addressed.i am disappointed to be having such problems with this ford.my husband actually recently purchased a used acura instead of a ford because of it.i have no transportation of my own until these safety/reliability issues are resolved. ...updated 04/12/16 the consumer took the vehicle to another repair shop. She was informed the alternator needed to be replaced at a cost of $500.00 updated 04
Code p0351, p0352, p0353, p0354, p0355, p0356. Vehicle shut down on the interstate on the way home for work, 2ā½ hours from home. And will not restart. Pcm most likely the problem.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the stop safely now warning message displayed after driving the vehicle for approximately 30-45 minutes. The contact also stated that the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the battery pack fan kit and the traction auxiliary mode actuator needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired under nhtsa campaign number: 14v526000 (hybrid propulsion system), but the failure persisted. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 134,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving at 35 mph, the vehicle stalled and "stop safely now" displayed on the instrument panel. The vehicle was able to restart after multiple attempts. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that there was a faulty wire harness inside the high voltage battery. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 79,000.
The first incident occurred while i was driving 65 mph on the expressway.i went to change lanes and hit the accelerator and the car would not accelerate and was shuddering.i had pull off the expressway and turn the car off.i tried restarting and it just shuddered again.i waited five minutes and tried again and finally it started and was able to shift.two days ago i was getting off the expressway and making a left turn when the car died and i lost steering power.i was able to fortunately get to the side of the road and put it into park.i tried restarting the car and it would not start.i waited 3 mins and was able to finally get it going.both times there was no check engine light.i had the escape read by a code reader device multiple times and there are no error codes displayed from the computer.this is a very serious and potentially life threatening issue, and would like ford to act upon it for its customers immediately.i am filing this because i have read that the issue is with a defective throttle body, and there is already an investigation into ford on this issue (pe13-003).i would like my vehicle to be added to this investigation for my families safety and all others experiencing the problem.
The problem that we are having has to do with the car just shutting off and losing power, mainly on the interstate. We started having the problem back in june of 17 when my wife broke down in fayetteville nc on her way to south carolina and had it towed to the nearest aaa service center. They couldn't find anything wrong but said she need a new battery. Fast forward to may 6 2018, not quite 11 months since the first time this has happened. Same thing, the abs warning light comes on, dash cluster shuts down, no radio or a/c, then the vehicle starts losing power and slowing down until there is no power at all. Everything we have read points to a problem the alternator. Every post we have read, around 40, says the same thing. Ford needs to recall all ford escapes to fix this problem. Someone is going to be killed because of their vehicles losing power and getting hit from behind my a tractor trailer. Please investigate this issue before something like that happens. Or ford can replace the vehicle with a new one. Some posts don't even have that warning like we did, they said it just shut down for no reason. I believe ford knows there is an issue with mist of no all ford escapes with this issue, but believe they are covering up the problem. Again, please investigate and ask the public who own escapes for any issues like we have had and from people that have posted the same issues. Thank you your help with this issue. No one should have to die or be injured from a problem that ford can fix. They need to issue a major recall for this problem and with your help we can get this fixed. We have a 2006 ford escape xlt which has been a great vehicle for the past 11 years. It's only been this past 11 months that these problems have arisen. Any thanks for any input to get ford to right this wrong.
Dash lights go out at a fill tank of gas and when the vehicle is warmed up and some times. Stay off for a long time vehicle stay running and goes down the road .
2 alternators in less than one year.tired of being left stranded with 3 kids in the car!!and its a lot of $$$$$$$$.
Vehicle stalls while running and shakes while stopped/idles.
On several occasions after getting off the highway onto an exit ramp my vehicle has died with no check engine lights, it also shuts down when making a hard turn at slower speeds.i have had issues with the accelerator sticking when it is cold outside (several times having to manually shut off engine and coast to a stop in snow). I have currently started experiencing a #3 misfire and am currently waiting for parts to come. I have already replaced all spark plugs and number 3 ignition coil. I am waiting for other 3 coils to come in. If still shooting will try replacing seals. It also was "burning" oil then started to have an actual oil leak from main seal. I do the repairs myself and apparently these are known issues. I complained to ford about the sticky accelerator and got no reply.it also makes a tapping sound from the cam shaft which i found out is typical of ford escapes.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving approximately between25-35 mph on normal conditions; the brake warning light indicator illuminated on the instrument panel.in an attempt to apply pressure to the brake pedal there was a grinding noise followed by a low power response.the warning indicator light remained illuminated until the engine was turned off and the four wheel drive light illuminated intermittently.the contact was able to drive with caution.the vehicle has not been repaired. The contact is aware of the safety risk involved. The failure and current mileages were 104,000. The vin number was unavailable.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving at approximately 10 mph, the interior lights illuminated and the horn activated independently. The failure recurred numerous times. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 125,000. The vin was not available.
1) accelerator pedal sticks in an upward position cannot push down to accelerate as if it is frozen. After about a half hour pushing with my foot it will releases.when stopped the pedal stick again but will release but vehicle goes in a jerking motion because it is trying to stick again this happens upon being parked or driving in the city or country it happens whenever i need to accelerate.it has started doing this within the past month but as of 11/10/17 it was completely stuck in the up position and not budging2) electrical issues- when lights are on or anything inside the vehicle lightsaber are flickering and become slightly dim
- the contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving at 15 mph the contact heard a popping noise when she depressed the brakes and noticed that the brake lightilluminated. She had to use the parking brake to stop the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, whostated that the wiring harness should be replaced. The dealer changed the wiring harness.however, six months later the contact experienced the same problem. The dealer was inspecting the vehicle to determine the reason for the most recent failure. The current mileage was 16,900 miles. Consumer has included multiple invoices stating brake system went out. The dealer performed multi point inspection and performed the various tasks:reinstalled side front panel, replaced harness, alignment of front end and rear, replace upper strut bearing and bushing, bled brake system. Update *4/16trthe abs light and brake light illuminated.
Driver instrument panel temperature back lighting has failed. This driver can't determine the engine temperature while driving at night.
- the contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving at 15 mph the contact heard a popping noise when she depressed the brakes and noticed that the brake lightilluminated. She had to use the parking brake to stop the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, whostated that the wiring harness should be replaced. The dealer changed the wiring harness.however, six months later the contact experienced the same problem. The dealer was inspecting the vehicle to determine the reason for the most recent failure. The current mileage was 16,900 miles. Consumer has included multiple invoices stating brake system went out. The dealer performed multi point inspection and performed the various tasks:reinstalled side front panel, replaced harness, alignment of front end and rear, replace upper strut bearing and bushing, bled brake system. Update *4/16trthe abs light and brake light illuminated.
2006 ford escape hybrid suv customer states that the check left headlamp light keeps coming on and after changing the light it did the same thing again**ccwhen the consumer removed the protective cover from the head light assembly, the electrical connection looked as if it had burned. Consumer stated had vehicle repaired and wants to be reimbursed by ford .
Am/fm cd player comes on with engine/ignition off.bought vehicle in 2004 and later that year brought it back to dealer because radio would come on by itself and drain battery. Dealer replaced radio under warranty. In 2005 brought vehicle in to dealer again with the same problem. Dealer claims they could not duplicate the problem. Nothing done. In 2006 brought vehicle to dealer again with the same problem, vehicle no longer under warranty. Dealer charged $80 diagnostic fee. Stated problem was defective radio, offered to replace radio for $390 plus tax. I declined and had an after market radio installed. Problem persisted. Brought vehicle to another mechanic who located a defective fuse panel accessory control relay and replaced it. Problem no longer exists.
Vehicle stalls while running and shakes while stopped/idles.
This has happened 3 times now, 2 in southern california on the freeway at night. Hybrid vehicle has recall problems which makes vehicle stop running. Had it fixed, paid out of my own pocket in southern california and thought problem was fixed. Something to do with battery. Then on friday, dec. 12, it happened again as i was driving home from college, the vehicle stopped suddenly. I couldn't pull over, it won't restart even after many attempts. I waited 5 to 25 minutes, vehicle would not start. Finally had to call a tow truck to closest ford dealer. I thought dealer could fix problem after having it all day but when i left and headed on highway, my hybrid vehicle stalled again on the highway. I have ptsd from this car, i never want to get in it. I don't trust it and after 3 different ford dealers, all of my own money to pay, car still doesn't work properly. I paid a premium to purchase this vehicle and it is worthless. Now i am receiving more recall notices about the airbags. I am afraid to drive my vehicle because if it stalls again i might be in a horrific accident as it stops suddenly with no warning whatsoever.
The abs ring (tone ring according to ford) on the front right axle fractured during driving. This sent a false signal to the processor and applied the abs while the vehicle was travelling at highway speeds. This extended the braking distance to an unsafe and unpredictable length on dry pavement. Two months after the first incident and replacement of the front right ring the front left ring broke again setting off the abs at an unpredictable time.
Driving down the interstate i found that the vehicle was losing power. There were no service engine lights or any indicator warning lights of any kind that were on previous to the incident or that lit up during or after the episode. I had to pull over to the side of the road. The accelerator seemed to stop working and there was no power to the engine. I restarted with no issue and continued to drive. The vehicle did this a second time. There were additional incidents at lower speeds driving around town.
The contact owns 2006 ford escape hybrid. While driving approximately 70 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The contact was able to restart the vehicle however, the vehicle continuously stalled within five miles of travel. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer for diagnostic testing. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure and current mileage was 125,000.
Wife was driving her 2003 ford escape 2.3l xls (fwd, 5-spd manual) at 65mph, practically coasting down a hill. 26 minutes after engine start she heard a loud bang and subsequent popping sounds. This was followed immediately by severe power loss from the engine. She drove it to the next best off-ramp, an additional 2 miles. When she got off the freeway she says she had to rev it up quite a bit to make an intersection to get to the gas station where the car rolled to a stop.that loud bang turned up to be the nbr 3 cylinder blowing its spark plug clean off the spark plug bore. The spark plug bore was completely threadless. The subsequent popping sounds were due to the spark plug not being on the nbr 3 cylinder as the fuel that continued to spray into the cylinder was burning off. The immediate power loss is a direct result of the engine loosing 25% of its chugga-chugga and the loss of the cht sensor signal which both then caused the pcm (powertrain control module) to go into limp mode and further reduce engine power.first thing i did was plug in my obdii scanner and check for codes. I found the following three: p0303 - cylinder 3 three misfire. P0353 - ignition coil 'c' primary/secondary circuit. P1289 - cylinder head temp sensor high input.i then performed a koeo (key-on/engine-off) check with my obdii scanner and found the following two codes: p0119 - engine coolant temperature circuit intermittent/erratic. P1289 - cylinder head temp sensor high input.the cht probe (cylinder head temperature) cover/boot was popped off the engine camshaft cover and the wires were broken off the cht probe electrical connector. The spark plug terminal broke off. The ignition coil pack was severely damaged (looked like an exploded cigar, cartoon style).
This mostly happens in cooler weather, i had started experiencing my accelerator pedal sticking with the throttle closed.it was mainly a nuisance at first but it started to get to the point where i could put my entire weight on the pedal without it budging.at my soonest convenience and mostly because i had a warranty on the vehicle since it was still relatively new to me, i drove to the dealer i purchased it from and they told me it was the throttle body and that it had to do with the differing metals of the throttle body and the ambient temperature, so they ended up replacing it...it only cost me $100 at the time due to the warranty.here i am about three years later and i am experiencing the exact same problem.i don't have a warranty so i investigated the issue myself and discovered the throttle body is mostly plastic with an aluminum butterfly...i also discovered a tar-like residue on the edges of the butterfly.i proceeded to clean the assembly, then reinstalled it and there was a major improvement...my accelerator feels very different, in a very good way.i'm tired of large companies hiding issues like this.it gets old and causes good products to continue to get cheaper.my money could be put to better use than replacing a part that obviously needed more engineering attention before becoming production.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 5 mph, she heard a loud noise as grey smoke started to emit from the engine compartment. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the technician diagnosed that the engine was defective. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 74,500.
The first incident occurred while i was driving 65 mph on the expressway.i went to change lanes and hit the accelerator and the car would not accelerate and was shuddering.i had pull off the expressway and turn the car off.i tried restarting and it just shuddered again.i waited five minutes and tried again and finally it started and was able to shift.two days ago i was getting off the expressway and making a left turn when the car died and i lost steering power.i was able to fortunately get to the side of the road and put it into park.i tried restarting the car and it would not start.i waited 3 mins and was able to finally get it going.both times there was no check engine light.i had the escape read by a code reader device multiple times and there are no error codes displayed from the computer.this is a very serious and potentially life threatening issue, and would like ford to act upon it for its customers immediately.i am filing this because i have read that the issue is with a defective throttle body, and there is already an investigation into ford on this issue (pe13-003).i would like my vehicle to be added to this investigation for my families safety and all others experiencing the problem.
I have taken very good care of my 2006 ford escape with frequent oil changes every 2k. I have also had a transmission rebuild that was completed during warranty in 2010. No my car is in a shop with diagnosis that the engine is burned out and needs to be replaced. $4500 for a used engine replacement. I was driving on a highway with a car filled with children and with no indication lights coming on the motor completely died while i was moving 65 mph. I was very fortunate to pull over to the side of the road without a crash. The indication lights only came on as the motor was dying. I tried to restart the engine and it would start but then started to smoke immediately. When i have the car towed to a mechanic he said that there was very little oil in the engine. I had just added 2 quarts of oil about 400 miles before this incident and saw no leakage.
Vehicle stalls while running and shakes while stopped/idles.
2006 ford escape.consumer writes in regards to unexpected engine failure.the consumer stated the timing chain broke with no warning, while driving ona busy highway. Updated 08/20/14.
My engine seized, there were no warning lights(oil, check engine, temp) nothing. My mechanic said that there was no oil in the car. But there was no odor of burning oil. My car had less than90 thousand miles on it and it was well maintained . What can i do?
My family was driving out of town on the freeway.we were driving up a small incline and the engine shut down.we lost all power in a matter of seconds.we were almost hit by several other vehicles because we were unable to properly remove the vehicle from the road (lost power so quickly).we had the vehicle towed to a local dealership where they advised us that the engine shut down because it was going to throw a rod.we have done all scheduled maintenance on the vehicle.there was no advanced warning, no check engine light, nothing that would lead us to believe the vehicle would suffer engine failure and shut down on the freeway leaving my family (two small children) in danger of being struck on the freeway.i have read numerous other complaints about this same vehicle (same problem with the engine throwing a rod).my family has attempted to get assistance with ford unsuccessfully.
The truck has some issues while driving it . Its really hard to describe what its doing..but when it starts to act up i let off the gas pedal an i just coast until the engine or transmission stops doing what ever its doing then i am able to keep driving normally. I worry when ever i am driving thinking parts might drop out from under it if i don't baby it kinda..so i don't let anyone else's ever drive it because i am afraid they might not let off the gas when its having trouble in its shifting or the tranny is about to fall out underneath it ..what ever the issue is. I am not one who works on cars so how would i know what its problem is . When i have ask ford dealer ships about the problems they just tell me there hasn't been any recalls on the truck so there for there is probably nothing wrong with it. I know what ever is wrong with it i cant be the only one who has issues with my truck.i am not rough on my truck.. I have a ford escape 4dr 4x46cy 2006 anyone able to help me how do i get ford to fix this? i have gotten my truck paid off now an i don't have money to have to pay for such large repairs . Im single mom of two boys one of which has special needs ..i don't have extra money laying around to work on our truck..heck lucky to afford the gas to put in it ..[xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
My car gas pedal keeps sticking like there is rock under it. I almost wrecked tonite because of it!!!! it needs to be fixed and there are a lot of other people with the same issue.
On sunday may/23/2021 my car shut off suddenly with out warning after 3m of driving, the wrench orange lite came on, i was able to pull aside on the curb, turned off the car and waited a few minutes, i was able to turn the car back on, and the car restarted with out problem but the incident was there. When i got home i start looking on line for an explanation of what went wrong and i encounter that the 2006 ford scape hybrid has been recall for stalling problems, somehow my car is not part of the recall according with the vin number, but my car is a 2006 ford scape hybrid, i don't understand why my car its not part of the recall and i hope that it did not fall under the cracks and i hope more that my car will not get stall in the freeway and cause an accident. Please let me know if any additional information is need it
I own a 2006 ford escape xlt with 100,000 miles. 90% highway miles, well maintained with dealer or independent mechanic. Have all paper work. "my biggest worry is the stalling for no reason and an accident happening and this should be a recall issue". Jan. 2015 i had a intake and valve oil leak that was fixed 3 times, jan, feb and march. When i took it to the dealer in march, i mentioned that my vehicle had stalled in my driveway after a 30 minute highway drive from work. They put it on the computer and said there was no code for a stall. Dealer said ford sent them notice describing my same issue but couldn't confirm it was the torque converter. April 10th 2015 i was out of extended warranty. The stalling happened again late april, took to dealer again. Dealer said no codes again. Took straight to uncle after leaving dealer for him to look at and couldn't get the vehicle to stall after a week of having it. I've read online forums of people replacing transmission multiple times for torque converter and other issues within the transmission. Also, after 3 deer ran out in front of me 2 years ago, repairs done to physical damage and passenger seatbelt replaced twice during repairs, passenger seatbelt and airbag lights come on and seatbelt alert beeps while driving even know the passenger has the seatbelt on. I have to park, shut down, buckle seatbelt and then start again and this worked except for one time i had to repeat this a second time. Dealer said there was no codes for airbags or seat belts. Ford has not been notified yet. Also, when i bought the vehicle brand new i had the underbody sprayed but the rear wheel wells are rusting from underneath to outer body and rusting under front doors too.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 65 mph, the engine stalled. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, who diagnosed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired but the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the water pump was needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 135,000.
Driving down the freeway and my vehicle shuts off without warning. There is a loud knocking and shuttering noise like my whole engine is going to drop onto the freeway. I get to the shoulder and put it in park. As i try to start the vehicle again the engine/motor starts shaking yet again with a loud knocking noise and wont turn over. I had to get my car towed. My children were extremely scared and being on the freeway this issue is very dangerous and has been complained about multiple times.
I purchased my 06 ford escape in january of this year. It has 92,000 miles on it. I test drove the car and had it inspected by a mechanic after purchase to make sure that there wasnt an issue the dealer " forgot " to mention, about 3 weeks after purchase my oil light came on. I added oil but did not get an oil change because i wasn't due one for 1400 miles. After that the car was fine.... For about a week when the oil light came on again, in the mean time i was diligent about checking the oil and also inspecting beneath the vehicle to make sure there was no oil on the ground. There wasn't. The oil light stopped coming on but i confined to check the oil daily. And i'm glad i did because , the oil in my car continuedto disappear. I have now had the car 9 months and the problem has progressively gotten worse. The car barely drives now and the check engine light is indicating a cylinder is misfiring. I'm going they a qt of oil a day and driving only 30 miles round trip to work and back .i've researched this issue and i know that this is a consistent and ongoing problem with this vehicle. Ford has left me with 4,000 dollars left of a loan, no way for my husband and i to get to work or bring our children to school and with xmas coming, not one extra dime to put towards a new vehicle. I know ford has been informed of these problems. What will it take for them to issue a recall? when the 06 escapes engine fails on a busy high way and god forbid people are hurt ? or worse? and ford can't say they weren't well aware of the problem because they had it with the 05 escape too and still used the same engine in the 06. Now i'm past the lemon law time frame and i have no options but to pay for a 6500 dollar lawn ornament.
A total and complete loss of power regardless of travel speed. This is accompanied with vehicle shaking and lurching just before the engine dies. Sometimes it will start again - sometimes not. There have multiple incidents and their frequency is increasing i.e. Almost daily.this vehicle has spent time in the shop ( not cheap) where the mechanics find no trouble/diagnostic codes and report not knowing what the problem is nor having ever encountered a similar problem before.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the rear passenger side shocks were corroded. Additionally, the contact mentioned the vehicle was burning oil excessively. The vehicle was taken to a mechanic however, the technician was unable to diagnose the failure. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 80,000 and the current mileage was 120,000. Updated 08/27/2014*lj updated 09/4/2014
After traveling for approximately 1 mile at 35 mph, the engine suddenly shut off.upon safely stopping the vehicle in a parking lot.the engine re-started with no issues.drove the vehicle for approximately another mile at 35 mph when it shut off again.re-started with no issues.have not driven the vehicle since then.no fault codes were generated & no apparent problems have been detected.
After about 2 years, 2008, car was dragging took it to ford, was told nothing was wrong, it was some time later, 2016 /2017 that the transmission went out, had it replaced, less than 1 year it went out again, which ford replaced, when the service person asked who did it, he just rolled his eyes. 3 years and 2 months later, more transmission problem, now theyare teling it the ptu unit which is causing oil to leak through the engine and now they want 5,000.00 to replace it.a transmission shopwas question and they said that year had lots of issue with the transmissions and when ford replaced the transmission the ptru unit was put in wrong, that they were constantly fixing it,also that the hilltop ford service department is the worse anyone could go to, also when i took my care to ford, the engine light was not on, and when i picked it up and told what was wrong, they had on it the i wanted to find out why my engine was, i did not, it was not on, i was told that he had to put that or the charges would be more, i was already being changed over $200 when i was never told about the charge in the first place.
My 2005 ford escape just suddenly started surging and stalling while in motion and when stopped. The wrench/ security light flashes than problem occurs. This is totally unsafe can and will cause accident or death if it has not already. I read about other escapes having the same problem, is there any answer from ford as to fix such problem. Thanks [xxx]('parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).')
I was sitting at a drive through and vehicle started sputtering. Had to keep foot on gas to keep the vehicle running. When i went to pull out on the street, the vehicle stalled out. After 4 or 5 attempts at restarting, it started about 20 min later.
Knocking, knocking when accelerating, hesitation.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 30 mph the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was able to be pulled into a side parking lot and upon further inspection the contact noticed there was a loud knocking noise coming from the vehicle. The contact checked the oil and there was no oil in the vehicle. The contact added oil to the engine and the vehicle was towed to a personal mechanic for diagnosis. The contact was informed that there was rod failure and the timing chain was blown. In addition, the engine would need replacing. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and instructed the contact to have the vehicle towed to the dealer for diagnosis. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 60,000.
I have one question. Why are 06 ford escapes still on the road? what bugs me more is the fact ford and everyone is turning their heads to the issue. Not only have i read hundreds of complaints of engine failure, i have not seen one person say ford made any effort to fix the problem instead i only see continuous problem dating up to now involving this same issue. My grandfather who purchased this vehicle new in 06 is now on disability and now without a car after only 52,000 miles. The cause. Engine failure like the rest. No warning, no nothing. Instead a $6,000 quote for a new engine. A month before that we realized the vehicle was burning oil faster then normal but when checked there was no leak. Following that the engine blew one morning after being started and hearing a loud banging. The vehicle was turned off and would not turn back on. After having it checked they said the engine was fired and oil started leaking into the engine. Lucky we were parked but unlike most complaints iv read people were driving or on the highway when the same thing occurred. I don't think i have to tell you have extremely dangerous that is and could be. Its a problem to many ford owners are experiencing and no one has taking action. That vehicle is a death waiting to happen. How many more people need to loss money or possible their life for someone to stop this?
I was driving at approximately 40 mph ( 40-65 mph intervals between highways) for about 20 minutes when all of a sudden my car is loosing power, so i stepped on the gasoline pedal a little more to keep the speed.the sad part is that there wasn't any lightthat came on to tellor warn me that something is seriously wrongand that my car needed to be checked. I drove a total of one hour that day at 40-65 mph intervals. When i started the car the next day, after about 3 minutes of the engine running, it started making this really loud noise and my car will not go faster than 2 mph.
My 2006 ford escape was purchased in august of 2005. Four months later, november 2005, i was pulling into a parking slot in front of a restaurant, with my foot on the brake, when it surged ahead, went over a concrete block, took down two poles, and hit another vehicle. At the time i thought it was the brakes, but no one could find anything wrong with the brakes. People said i probably stepped on the accelerator, but i was convinced that i did not.i could not prove anything.july 22, 2018, twelve years later, it happened again. I was pulling into a parkingslot in the back of my church parking lot. The engine revved up and the car surged forward, with my foot on the brake, and it happened so quickly, there was nothing i could do. I went over a concrete block and smashed into the sanctuarywall. I was injured and had problems for about a month and a half.i read an article on the internet from the nhtsa on torque news that the north carolina consumers council (nccc) says that these vehicles are equipped with an electronic throttle body system that could fail - causing the engine to either surge or stall. This is only under investigation now, no recall. I am sure this is what happened to my vehicle, but i cannot prove or do anything about it.i have been driving my escape for 13 years and only had 50,000 miles on it, but i had it totaled. It could have been repaired, but i could not take the chance of it happening again. What if i had hurt someone or will someone have to die before they have a recall on the escapes?it is too late for me to do anything about my 2006 escape, but please do something about this problem before someone gets hurt or dies. I did purchase another escape, a 2011. I hope nothing happens to this one. Please have a recall on these vehicles.
I always kept the scheduled maintenance on my 2006 ford escape (85,000 miles). On christmas day 2013 my husband and i checked all of the car's fluids. Everything was fine. One week later as we exited the freeway, the car suddenly started to shake, loose power and make a very loud clattering noise. The oil sensor never went off and the engine light did not turn on until a few blocks later. Thankfully, we were able to make it home.i took the car in to our regular mechanics. The damage was so bad that they had to call in another mechanic in order to try and figure what the best solution could be. They said that the car needed 4 quarts of oil even though only a week before we had checked the oil. According to the mechanics the engine needs to be replaced and other parts in the car have also been effected.
In approximately september 2006 i bought a ford escape not long after i bought it i stated having trouble with it.when i pressed the gas pedal the car would not go.by the time i would get it to a ford dealership the car had warmed up and they could not get it to do it.during the summer it does not do this but as soon as the weather cools off it will start.i have had to pull over on the side of the road multiple times because when i press the gas pedal the pedal does not move.in order to get it to not stick you have to press it and release it several times then eventually it will take off surging forward.today was the first cool day we have had and i had to cost over multiple times on the side of the road.when you pull out at stop light you never know whether it is going to be one of the times when the car is not going to go.today i pulled out several times to find out that it was one of the times the car was not going to go and was almost in several accidents.i was able to get it to a ford dealership and i explained what the car was doing.they advised me that it was lunch time and they had an appreciation lunch planned for employees and if i could come back in two hours they could have someone look at it but that it sounded like it was the throttle and that it would be around $1000 to repair. This car has always done this in cold weather and i tried multiple times to get this repaired while it was under warranty but when i would take it to the ford dealership they would tell me that they could not fix it because they could not get the car to do what i was describing.
As i was traveling across interstate 86 in new york state, at 65 miles per hour, my ford escape completely lost power. Fortunately for me i was right next to an off ramp and a convenient market. When i checked the engine for signs of what could have gone wrong i found that my engine was completely out of oil. I maintain my own vehicles due to the costs of the repair shops and check my vehicles fluids regularly. There were no signs of oil loss where i had been parking my vehicle as well. When i had the vehicle checked at my local repair shop they told me it was out of time. How does a chain driven vehicle become out of time? as i researched the problem on car forums on the internet i realized that i am not the only one facing this issue. Many individuals have replaced engines in this model year at very unreasonable prices some only to have the same issue reoccur. I was fortunate that i was not in heavy traffic where this sudden loss of power could have created an accident. I hope more individuals take the time to complain so something may be done about this issue. This is not an isolated issue and the vehicle has a reputation for failure which unfortunately i did not know about before i purchased this vehicle. I work part time and can not afford to repair the only vehicle i own. I am without a vehicle due to a major company unwilling to take accountability of their inferior product. I purchased this vehicle due to the fact it was american made and assembled in the u.s. Next time i guess i buy a foreign product that at least i will receive a product that is worth my investment.
On 12/23/14, vehicle cut out after backing out of parking to enter moving traffic on highway. The second time it cut out,12/24/14, the vehicle was being driven down the roadway. That time, the vehicle sputtered, sounded like a winded horse, running on three legs. My car was always well maintained, including oil changes every 3,000 miles, transmission flushes every year, fuel injection cleaning every other year. With the double timing chain, i was assured at purchase, that they rarely break. I could not understand what had caused this. Then, i am told it is a pcm failure caused by spark plugs , coils, that were not compatible with the pcm, or where the resistor was ineffective to combat the feedback from the coils/ spark plugs, and therefore caused the computer to shut down three cylinders of my engine. Apparently there were tsb bulletins to dealerships on this issue, but no recalls, because ford determined that the pcm failure would probably occur post-warranty. However, car owners should have been notified, there should have been a recall. I was in the last few months of paying for this vehicle, and am faced with a $2500 bill, that i do not deserve, because it is in no way linked to my own negligence of vehicle maintenance! to me, it is a form of built-in obsolescence, that might be ok with small-cost items like watches, but should never be allowed with high-cost items, such as cars!
2006 ford escape, 52000 miles on it, no prior problems.driving on expressway at 55mph with sudden noise and smoke coming from under hood and vehicle.pulled to side of expressway and notice trail of oil.towed to local ford dealership and informed that engine had a hole in it.given quote of $8,000 to repair.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 50 mph, a warning indicator to shut the vehicle down illuminated and the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was able to restart. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, where it was diagnosed that the vehicle needed to be reprogrammed. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 90,000.
Problems with gas pedal sticking/ locking up. While driving and sometimes when idle dash lights, a/c and radio turn on and off, then there was a clicking sound before the actual engine shuts off.
Engine lost all oil. There is no oil spot on the road no leak detected each oil change at 3k miles.i had gone to lunch,no problem,no noise,no warning lights.i got in the vehicle to go home and heard a loud banging sound.i immediately turned off the vehicle and towed it home. I checked the oil and it was gone.i had just had to have the transmission replaced and within 2 weeks the oil is just gone.there are 36 other reported incidents of oil being lost in the engine and ford will do nothing. The cost of a replaced engine is any where from 5ooo to 9000 dollars.if you are lucky enough to have your engine quit when you are are at work like me you can get a tow. Some have reported that the engine just stopped on the highway.here in southern california that is deadly for several people.ford and dotneed to look into this and replace these engines. The day prior to my engine issue i had checked the oil and it was full. But the next day it disappeared . Without a trace.
On several occasions after getting off the highway onto an exit ramp my vehicle has died with no check engine lights, it also shuts down when making a hard turn at slower speeds.i have had issues with the accelerator sticking when it is cold outside (several times having to manually shut off engine and coast to a stop in snow). I have currently started experiencing a #3 misfire and am currently waiting for parts to come. I have already replaced all spark plugs and number 3 ignition coil. I am waiting for other 3 coils to come in. If still shooting will try replacing seals. It also was "burning" oil then started to have an actual oil leak from main seal. I do the repairs myself and apparently these are known issues. I complained to ford about the sticky accelerator and got no reply.it also makes a tapping sound from the cam shaft which i found out is typical of ford escapes.
I was driving approximately 45-50 mph & could no longer accelerate. Gas pedal was stuck. I realized i was able to release it by stepping on brakes or hitting the gas pedal really hard. This was under warranty in oct 2009 & the throttle body was replaced (supposedly) then again in nov 2011 i had to have it replaced but it was not under warranty & had to pay for it. It was icy out & it's pretty dangerous to slam on your brakes to release the gas pedal. Luckily there were no cars behind me.i wrote a letter to ford but they would not refund me nor was there a recall. I just had the same problem july 2014 & the dealer (supposedly) cleaned the throttle body but charged me & i called ford but again they said there's no recall. I also spent 7k in feb 2013 for a new engine.....beginning to wonder if that was a wise decision.
I bought the vehicle on september 4,2015 all these problem started 1 month after.manuel transmission gets to rough at times when being shifted into 1st gear and reverse gets stuck and hard to shift, might be part of the recall no# 15s28 the engine oil seems to use 1qt a week, recently had a changed oil but continues to use the same every week, mileage is at 132467. The air bag for passenger light continues to light up and goes off when driven. A banging noise when driven on the road at rear shock absorbers are located, the shocks are still new.
My vehicle dies when the truck is warmed up and i put it in gear with my foot on the brake. It dies at stop lights and stop signs and in reverse. Another technician told me i would have to ride around with that problem because it was not throwing a code. After a week, i took it back to the ford dealer in cleveland, ms, and the service department manager told me it was probably the throttle body actuator. But, that it was on national back order. I left the car with the ford dealer, and they said they replaced the throttle valve at a cost of $900. The truck died on the wayhome from the dealer with the same problem.
On my home from the grocery store driving approximately 55 to 60 mph in our 2006 ford escape 4 cyl suv. The vehicle made a loud pop and then caught on fire. Freaked out i pulled off in a driveway. We poured soda pop from 2 litres on the fire to extinguish the flame. The mesh pipe before the last catalytic converter was glowing red. I have read many stories of people with the same problem on all years of ford escape. It is in my opinion the rear converter stopped up causing this damage to our once lovely ride.now i am not even sure if it will run. The heat from things like this causes major stress on internal engine parts as the exhaust has no where to go. Then when the engine explodes as it should fire starts. We are now out of a ride until we can pay an extreme amount for this defective suv.
The vehicle stalled out and restarted about 4 different times at 4 different red lights, after driving it home, it never started again, towed it to mechanic who said rods were bent and timing chain off, towed to another mechanic who said the same thing, finally towed to ford montrose who found out same thing, they were to fix it for $1,800, 5 weeks later they found out entire engine was blown, now need a remanned engine put in it for over $5,000, the vehicle only has 42,300 miles on it, great shape, took great care of it, just paid it off in august 2012 for this to happen, i did have my one year old child with me at the time and if anything bad would have happened i would be suing someone, i have contacted ford motor company about 5 times who said they could not help me, i tried calling an area action i-team news to help, no luck, still no vehicle 9 weeks later and i have to find a way to get myself to work, my daughter to daycare and try to do everything else people who have a vehicle do, please help!
The vehicle shuts off while driving and idle.after warmed up.the red security light flashes on the dash. It has shut off while driving and almost caused an accident.
First it stalled out while idling, then stalled out at stop light , then upon acceleration it stalled again. While driving it hesitated again , when i accelerated it started to go again, at stop light it stalled out. It always seems to start. I called the dealer where i purchased it and no active recalls for my vehicle, called another ford dealer and same answer. I mentioned consumer program 13n03 but told it was vehicle specific.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving no more than 50 mph, an explosion was heard.the driver pulled the vehicle over and noticed flames.another driver pulled over and helped her extinguish the fire with snow.the vehicle was towed to a repair shop and then later towed to the dealer from where it was purchased.the dealer stated that the motor was faulty, which caused the explosion due to the piston being blown out of place.a police report was filed.the vehicle is still at the shop and has not been repaired.the contact believes that the manufacturer should issue a recall because the defect should not occur in a two year old vehicle.there were no injuries.the current and failure mileages were 59,000.
The service engine light came on plus the wrench light.the vehicle told me to pull over safely.it would not go over 20 miles per hour.i had it towed to the ford dealership and was told it was the throttle body.i did research online where other escapes were having the same issue.the north carolina consumers council stated this online-"we have been informed that ford has issued an extended warranty for defective throttle body assemblies and sensors for 10 years or 150,000 miles from the data of original purchase. For vehicles past this time limit, the warranty is reported to be valid until january 31, 2015."since i am over the mileage i am having to pay for the part.
Engine failed.engine of suv would rev at high rate.suv had to be towed to dealer.tow trucker driver noted that suv had been towed before because tow hook had bent frame.i told the driver that the car had not been towed during my lease.
Since buying suv trouble with rear windshield wiper, cruise control staying engaged, & turn over cold/hot start hesitation currently voluntary recalls. Ford says my suv was only affected by the windshield wiper.at 22,000 miles went to original dealer for oil change put windshield fluid ? wasn't in port or reservoir.bucking at 28,000 miles brought to other dealership during oil change.during visit told them about interior lights.suppose to check automatic transmission filter/fluid/service based on manual, but wasn't done. At other ford dealership had suv 35,830 bucking problem again and interior lighting on panels not working.was told those lights never worked or glowed? said bucking wasa suspension pin in the front passengers side, only one was changed despite 4 wheel drive vehicle. ( was towed back to dealership next day 4 bucking )ford mentioned needing new breaks soon that there was vibration and shimmy from the break pads that i was feeling?had tires done 38,177 miles & brakes 38,550 with independent mechanic non ford was told that all 4 suspension pins should have been changed simultaneously like my tires and that their is a class 1 leak from my differential/transmission-possibly just a gasket change 6-9 hours worth of labor.i contacted the ford customer service repair center i would have to pay for out of pocket despite having made note bringing in issues when vehicle was under the manufacturers warranty it is currently out. With the sensitivities to the current market felt it wasn't in my best interest to pay for the extended warranty.if ford closed who would do my work when they were suppose to do it during regular bumper to bumper full manufacturer warranty in the first place and didn't. Not to mention i still owe 2 more years worth of car note & insurance to pay off this vehicle. I don't have the money to pay for repairs that should have been covered by the manufacturer.
Less than 9 months after purchase in 2008, the engine light of my 2006 ford escape xlt v6 went on. Multiple shops attempted to find the source of the problem but could not get the light off without wanting to do many step by step "could be this..." repairs. Computer code indicated the emissions control system was malfunctioning. Car remained with an expired inspection sticker for several months while different things were tried. Finally a shop found a corroded wire, and the light went out. Less then 7 months later the car battery light went on, and it stalled and died within minutes. It required 12 jumos to get it the approx. 8 miles home. The alternator and battery were then replaced. Less than 1 month later the exact same thing occurred. A 2nd alternator and battery were put in. 2 months later the vehicle then suddenly began flashing the engine light pulling out from a stop sign. Instantly the car stopped accelerating and the front end began shaking, and making loud rattling noises, and fresh gas can be detected from the front end. It was found to have no oil, although there should have been plenty based on last oil change, and the oil light never came on. The engine now needs to be replaced. (mileage listed at failure is the engine event).
My wife was driving my son to school and going to work. All of a sudden the car started making a noise, the engine and battery lightcame on and the car shut down. She was in the middle of traffic. She then started the car again and she was able to pull into a gas station. The car again shut down. We had it towed to the ford service dealer. They examined it and said that our motor was dead and the engine flooded. This is the first incident we have had with the car. The ford service person quoted us for a new motor 3800..for used and 5400 for a new one. Two days later he upped the price to 4800 for a used one. I asked for specifics to the failure but was not given one. Again, i have had plenty of oil changes and inspection with nothing indicating a problem. My mechanic checked it an is replacing it for less. I really believe their is some issues with this car.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving between 45-60 mph or when slowing down, the vehicle shuts off.the battery light illuminates and the contact must make 2-5 attempts to restart the vehicle.the vehicle was taken to three dealers and none were able to duplicate the failure.the current mileage was 123,000 and failure mileage was 80,000.the consumer stated the vehicle stalls after stopping. Updated 11/26/07.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact was driving 10 mph when the power steering and all electrical aspects of the vehicle failed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the failure was diagnosed a fractured engine bolt.the vehicle was repaired yet approximately 1,300 miles later, the failure recurred. The vehicle was towed to the dealer and they advised that there was a factory defect found within the vehicle. The vehicle was repaired a second time. The manufacturer was contacted and they offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 47,000.
I bought a used 2006 ford escape from pasadena auto planet in south houston tx. On 1/31/15.about a week later i thought i saw smoke coming from under my hood but i dismissed it because there was a car in front of me with smoke coming from the muffler.on another day the same thing.i wasn't behind any car and i saw smoke coming from under my hood so i pulled over.i could smell coolant.my car did not indicate overheating because it is cold outside.when i lifted my hood smoke galore came out from the radiator.it was dark so i couldn't see anything.the next morning i took it to a mechanic and we discovered the radiator was crushed from an apparent prior accident and the fans weren't working either.i called the car lot the next morning and spoke with a man named [xxx].i told him the situation.he told me when he got to the car lot he would pull my file and call me back. 3 hours went by and nothing.so i went to the car lot and there he was.he did not look happy to see me.i went inside and told him again about the damaged radiator.we walked outside and he lifted the top off the coolant system and said to me, "well, you don't have any fluid in here."like he was trying to dance all around it.i finally made him get on his knees and look at the damage and he said, "oh, that's just the condenser." so i asked him what was he going to do about it.he said he would "try" to get approval to fix it at no cost to me.i decided i don't want them fixing it because at this point i do not trust them.i want my money back.after researching, i found out that fire can result from a car overheating so he sold me a safety hazard. My 1st car payment is due this saturday, 2/28/15.i'm not paying it for i just want my money back.information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
The contact owned a 2006 ford escape xlt. While driving approximately 40 mph approaching a stop sign the vehicle would stall. She heard a noise when she restated the vehicle. She drove the vehicle to her residence and noticed that the vehicle had no motor oil. She continued to hear the noise after she added oil to the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to an authorized ford dealer. The dealer installed a new crank shaft and engine. The dealer then installed a used engine at the owners expense. The contact stated that she was not the original owner of the vehicle. The approximate failure mileage was 42,175. The current mileage was 43,000.
I have a 2006 ford escape.the gas pedal is sticking all the time.it's not a sticking because it is stuck or needs lubed. It is a hard mechanical lock!no matter what you do you can not press down on the gas pedal.it's locked!you have to wait until it unlocks to do anything.this has been going on for a very long time.the other day it locked up on me as i was pulling out in traffic and was almost in an accident.it wouldn't move.i had to pull over on the side of the road and sit there until it decided to work again.my husband drives around with cruise control on so he doesn't get put in a position like this one even in town!someone is going to get killed- the driver and passengers of a car like this!ford recalled the same problem for 2004 and 2005 models but will not acknowledge the 2006 models.i shouldn't have to pay out money for a failure they are aware of.someone shouldn't be killed for this to be looked into and taken serious.if i could i would get another car but i would lose a lot of money doing that.ford needs to fix this and a recall needs to be demanded.if you search the internet people are complaining about this all over the place.not everyone knows the steps of action to take to be heard.we need the national highway traffic safety administration to step up and protect our drivers and our roads.this is really serious!there is no way of knowing when the car decides to do this.when you take it in and it doesn't do it, they say there is no problem.please help us!
2006 ford escape xlt customer states that the seat covers had to be replaced, the car would not turn over and jerking while driving over 70 mph and rear wiper not working correctly**ccthe consumer stated sitting at a stop light, the vehicle shut off. The consumer was able to restart the vehicle, but the rest of the way to her destination, the vehicle was riding rough and jerking.the dealer diagnosed the problem as a inoperative torque converter.the consumer stated the vehicle would stall, drive roughly and jerked on several occasions. The vehicle also would shift hard and lurch forward while the cruise control was activated.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving 45 mph, the contact felt the vehicle accelerate on its own.she removed her foot from the accelerator pedal, but the vehicle continued to accelerate.she made sure that the cruise control was deactivated by pressing the off button.the contact had to stand on the brake pedal in order to bring the vehicle to a complete stop.the contact inspected the vehicle.the vehicle was towed to the dealer who suggested that the format could be stuck.they found that this was not the cause of failure.the vehicle was restarted and the engine began to rev.the dealer shut off the engine and replaced the throttle, however, they were unable to diagnose the cause of failure.the contact is aware of the recall for the ford escape in 2005 for the same failure.the current mileage is 16,300 and failure mileage was 16,197.the consumer stated strongly urges a recall for this specific vehicle. The consumer further stated had 3 passengers in the vehicle and this was an extremely dangerous incident. Updated 08/29/07
Loud noise while starting vehicle in cold weather. Idler pulley was shredding the serpentine belt and pulley was overheating. Dealer replaced under warranty.
Dt*: the contact stated the vehicle grinds during start up if it sits for a couple of days.on 04-18-06 the vehicle began to sputter along with a delay in the accelerator pedal and the engine.the dealership admitted there were other vehicle's with the same year, make and model that has the problem.the dealer arranged an appointment for the vehicle to be inspected this week.updated 5/16/2006 - the door ajar light illuminated intermittently.the dealer lubed the door and applied weatherstripping.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that a rod caused the engine to lock. The vehicle was towed to the ford dealer and they informed the contact that he needed to replace the engine. The manufacturer advised the contact that they were unable to replace the engine per the warranty since it has expired and the mileage was 44,000. The vehicle has not been repaired. The failure mileage was 44,000.
I have had to bring my new car 2006 ford escape to the dealer(5xs) where i purchased it for an ongoing squealing problem when the car is started in the morning. Any fixes are temporary and the squeal continues on a new car this should not be happening.. My concern is that is a more serious problem like the transmission and they just are not fixing it, i have a full warranty and now i notice when i put my car in park i still move and i hit the brake but i am in park? my car is going back in again this wed the last time was just a few months ago and they had it for about 5 days... This is the last time for me.
At 9 months pregnant, while driving home i suddenly heard a loud thumping noise. I was close to home so i brought it there and had it towed to a dealership. They told me that there was absolutely no oil in the car, even though i had my oil changed a month before. The oil light never went on and we did not see any leaking oil. I received a call from the dealer telling me that my engine had to be replaced at 46,000 miles! he told me that i should have been checking my oil every time i got gas (at 9 months pregnant!) and it was up to me to keep up with it, not the check oil light. He told me that i should not rely on those indicators. A new engine and $5000 later and now my car leaks oil. I have been bringing it in every month to fix the leak and it always starts again within a week. This has been going on for 2 years now. I have 1 more year left for my engine warranty and i have a feeling that they will find the expensive problem as soon as that time comes. I'm so upset and frustrated with this car and even more so with the service.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.the contact heard a loud clanking noise when he started the vehicle.the check engine indicator illuminated on the instrument panel and the engine shook violently.while driving less than 20 mph, the vehicle stalled and was towed to the dealer.the dealer stated that the engine failed, but the warranty was expired.in addition, the intake valves were off, which threw the pistons off as well.the combustion chamber was exposed and caused the engine to fail.the current and failure mileages were less than 33,392.
Code p0351, p0352, p0353, p0354, p0355, p0356. Vehicle shut down on the interstate on the way home for work, 2ā½ hours from home. And will not restart. Pcm most likely the problem.
Air conditioningwent as wellas replacement of ball bearing and pulleybecause they seized and just yesterdayaugust 27,2008 the battery went.
Am/fm cd player comes on with engine/ignition off.bought vehicle in 2004 and later that year brought it back to dealer because radio would come on by itself and drain battery. Dealer replaced radio under warranty. In 2005 brought vehicle in to dealer again with the same problem. Dealer claims they could not duplicate the problem. Nothing done. In 2006 brought vehicle to dealer again with the same problem, vehicle no longer under warranty. Dealer charged $80 diagnostic fee. Stated problem was defective radio, offered to replace radio for $390 plus tax. I declined and had an after market radio installed. Problem persisted. Brought vehicle to another mechanic who located a defective fuse panel accessory control relay and replaced it. Problem no longer exists.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving 45 mph, the passenger side turn indicator and headlamp became inoperable. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that there was an electrical short in the electrical controller for the passenger side of the vehicle. The vehicle was repaired. The dealer and manufacturer were not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.
2006 ford escape hybrid suv customer states that the check left headlamp light keeps coming on and after changing the light it did the same thing again**ccwhen the consumer removed the protective cover from the head light assembly, the electrical connection looked as if it had burned. Consumer stated had vehicle repaired and wants to be reimbursed by ford .
The foot pedal to accelerate freezes up and will not release.i will be driving down the road and all of a sudden it will freeze up and i can not accelerate.i have to try and get off to the side of the road and start pounding my foot on the pedal to try and get it to release.i have had near misses of 18 wheelers and other vehicles running into the back of me on the hwy 114 i drive home every day from work.sometimes i have to get out open the hood and try to push the lever up and down to get it to release.ford needs to recall this part.
The first incident occurred while i was driving 65 mph on the expressway.i went to change lanes and hit the accelerator and the car would not accelerate and was shuddering.i had pull off the expressway and turn the car off.i tried restarting and it just shuddered again.i waited five minutes and tried again and finally it started and was able to shift.two days ago i was getting off the expressway and making a left turn when the car died and i lost steering power.i was able to fortunately get to the side of the road and put it into park.i tried restarting the car and it would not start.i waited 3 mins and was able to finally get it going.both times there was no check engine light.i had the escape read by a code reader device multiple times and there are no error codes displayed from the computer.this is a very serious and potentially life threatening issue, and would like ford to act upon it for its customers immediately.i am filing this because i have read that the issue is with a defective throttle body, and there is already an investigation into ford on this issue (pe13-003).i would like my vehicle to be added to this investigation for my families safety and all others experiencing the problem.
Complaint of not being able to start the car in very cold weather/ gas pedal sticks intermittently although frequency of condition increases as temperatures decrease < 25f. Ford dealer diagnoses issue as a failed air bypass valve (part number: 3s6z-9f715-aa), replaced valve. Condition not cleared. Engine pedal sticks, engine rpm increases without driver input. Manual transmission only reason that driver was able to maintain control (jockeying clutch pedal to limit engine rpm). Throttle body was removed, cleaned and reinstalled. Condition not cleared. Suspect failed throttle body.
I have a 2006 ford escape.the gas pedal is sticking all the time.it's not a sticking because it is stuck or needs lubed. It is a hard mechanical lock!no matter what you do you can not press down on the gas pedal.it's locked!you have to wait until it unlocks to do anything.this has been going on for a very long time.the other day it locked up on me as i was pulling out in traffic and was almost in an accident.it wouldn't move.i had to pull over on the side of the road and sit there until it decided to work again.my husband drives around with cruise control on so he doesn't get put in a position like this one even in town!someone is going to get killed- the driver and passengers of a car like this!ford recalled the same problem for 2004 and 2005 models but will not acknowledge the 2006 models.i shouldn't have to pay out money for a failure they are aware of.someone shouldn't be killed for this to be looked into and taken serious.if i could i would get another car but i would lose a lot of money doing that.ford needs to fix this and a recall needs to be demanded.if you search the internet people are complaining about this all over the place.not everyone knows the steps of action to take to be heard.we need the national highway traffic safety administration to step up and protect our drivers and our roads.this is really serious!there is no way of knowing when the car decides to do this.when you take it in and it doesn't do it, they say there is no problem.please help us!
I own a 2006 ford escape xlt . For the past month or so, whenever i try to fill up my gas tank with gas, the gas pump turns off, preventing me from fueling up. I have tried different gasoline companies and the problem still exists. Everywhere i go, the gas pump will click off on me as if the gas tank is full. I have to pull out the gas nozzle, place it back in and it then turns off again. Happens over and over. Takes me approx. 15 minutes to fill up tank.i have contacted ford & they claim that they have never heard of such a thing & that there is no recall for gasoline fill-up problems. Yet, if you research the internet you will see tons of people who are having the same gasoline fill-up problem.
Fuel tank vent system does not function properly. Fuel filler nozzle does not shut off, resulting in fuel overfilling from the fill tube and spilling out around the vehicle... Seems like this could result in a fire.
My gas pedal began to stick back around the 1st of october 2010 when the weather began to cool.it happened every now and then, at that time.as the winter progressed the gas pedal would stick more often, until the car warmed.i called a local ford dealership to inquire if they had any recalls on the gas pedal sticking and i was told no.it has been very hot in texas so i have had little problems.this date 9-6-2011 was the first cool morning in a long time and immediately my pedal stuck as soon as i backed out of my driveway.i was stuck in the middle of the street and the pedal would not bulge.i got out of the car and tried to lift the pedal up,hoping to get it to work.i kept pushing on the pedal and i was finally able to move the car.when i stop at the red light i have to start pushing quickly so i won't get hit from behind.this is very scary and serious.after some research i found that other owners of the 2006 escape suffered with the same problems.i am hopeful i will make it home from work to try to get some help.ford needs to look more closely at this issue.
While driving to work at about 43 miles per hour, i went to accelerate, but the gas pedal was stuck - like it froze up.i was able to pull into a parking lot, stopped the car, and slammed on the gas pedal a few times until it loosened up.this happened again a couple of days later, but i was able to stop at a red light, and again slammed on the gas pedal until it gave in.again this happened 2 days ago on my way to work, and had to pull off the street into a parking lot and slammed on the gas pedal until it loosened up.i looked on line for reviews on 2006 ford escapes, and saw that many, many other ford escape owners have had the same problem. I brought it yesterday morning to autonation ford in brooksville, florida and it was determined that the body asy - carburetor throttle, cable asy - throttle control needed to be replaced.the service manager stated that there were no recalls on this, and that this was common in ford escapes. He stated that this was a safety hazard and advised that i shouldn't be driving the car the way it was. The repairs are costing me over $600, and with all the complaints that i read about on line, i feel that this should be a ford recall, and customers should be reimbursed their costs to have this repaired.
Can not fill gas tank, pump shuts off every 30 seconds. Does not matter if tank is empty or not. This problem has continued to get worse over time.
When i take off from a dead stop at times the gas pedal will stick. It feels as if i'm stepping on to a block of wood. I will continue to press on the gas pedal. Having to press rather hard, on to the pedal almost stomping on it.for it to finally 'release'. But now the problem seems to be getting worse. Now i will be driving (vehicle in motion) and the gas pedal will stick. It varies with the speed, so i can't pin it onto a specific speed limit. I will still be in motion but the pedal will be a "block of wood' as i call it. I will have to stomp onto the pedal for it to release. Since lightly stepping on the pedal seems to do nothing. That is why i have to 'stomp' on the pedal to order for it to give. As for correcting the problem i plan on taking into my local ford dealership to have it looked at. But researching this problem i have notice other escape owners are having the same problem. So it seems that i'm not only one having these problems. It also weather isn't a factor since it acts up in the summer also in the freezing winter temperatures.
I was driving approximately 45-50 mph & could no longer accelerate. Gas pedal was stuck. I realized i was able to release it by stepping on brakes or hitting the gas pedal really hard. This was under warranty in oct 2009 & the throttle body was replaced (supposedly) then again in nov 2011 i had to have it replaced but it was not under warranty & had to pay for it. It was icy out & it's pretty dangerous to slam on your brakes to release the gas pedal. Luckily there were no cars behind me.i wrote a letter to ford but they would not refund me nor was there a recall. I just had the same problem july 2014 & the dealer (supposedly) cleaned the throttle body but charged me & i called ford but again they said there's no recall. I also spent 7k in feb 2013 for a new engine.....beginning to wonder if that was a wise decision.
While driving to work at about 43 miles per hour, i went to accelerate, but the gas pedal was stuck - like it froze up.i was able to pull into a parking lot, stopped the car, and slammed on the gas pedal a few times until it loosened up.this happened again a couple of days later, but i was able to stop at a red light, and again slammed on the gas pedal until it gave in.again this happened 2 days ago on my way to work, and had to pull off the street into a parking lot and slammed on the gas pedal until it loosened up.i looked on line for reviews on 2006 ford escapes, and saw that many, many other ford escape owners have had the same problem. I brought it yesterday morning to autonation ford in brooksville, florida and it was determined that the body asy - carburetor throttle, cable asy - throttle control needed to be replaced.the service manager stated that there were no recalls on this, and that this was common in ford escapes. He stated that this was a safety hazard and advised that i shouldn't be driving the car the way it was. The repairs are costing me over $600, and with all the complaints that i read about on line, i feel that this should be a ford recall, and customers should be reimbursed their costs to have this repaired.
While driving, my throttle or gas pedal sticks. It will not depress. I have to turn the car off and back on again. Sometimes i have to let the car sit a few minutes before it will unstick. This is very dangerous trying to merge into traffic!!! this has happened several times, and usually when the weather is cold or the engine is cold. That is the only pattern i have been able to figure out.
2006 ford escape gas fills very slowly. Gas backs out the tank. Ford refuses to fix it because i am 5000 miles over warranty. Known issue since 2006.....4 technical service bulletins regarding the issue. Wants to charge me $87 to "diagnose"it, plus labor, parts, etc. Dangerous to me to have gas spilling out of vehicle because the drainage is clogged; the gas cap cover is missing, so i can only assume that it's in the tube.....poor construction.
At approximately 5:50 am, while driving to work i experienced a problem with the accelerator pedal of my 2006 ford escape.the pedal, while attempting to accelerate out of an intersection after the light turned green, began sticking badly.after working with it for a short period of time i was finally able to get the pedal to depress.during this time my vehicle was essentially 'coasting' through traffic, i was unable to accelerate.after getting home this evening i searched online and discovered literally hundreds of similar complaints about the ford escape gas pedal sticking.this could have been much worse for me if it had been later in the day during rush hour traffic.all of the other complaints i researched stated the same situation that i had, low air temperature (it was approximately 50 f) and attempting to accelerate out of an intersection or merging with traffic.for the failed component i am selecting 'fuel system' but i am not certain if this is the correct one.the actual component is the gas pedal sticking badly, i am not certain if it is the pedal, the cable or the throttle-body that is the culprit.
I have a 2006 ford escape that the accelerator pedal will periodically lock up.ford will not address the problem.i have read that people either clean or replace the throttle body but the problem resurfaces.it would seem to me to be a defect in that part.it has always happened with me when i am in motion.like you may take off to cross an intersection or make a right turn and it will get you just far enough to get in traffic and then the pedal freezes and you're stuck.i have become very fearful driving not knowing when it might happen.
While driving, i went to accelerate, but the gas pedal was stuck in the idle position - like it froze up.i stepped on the gas pedal a few times until it loosened up. This has happened multiple times in the past few years about once every 2 months and typically on colder days less than 32 degrees f.after a throttle body cleanout by a licensed mechanic, it got worse.i looked on line for reviews on 2006 ford escapes, and saw that many, many other ford escape owners have had the same problem.there are currently no recalls on the throttle body, but this is the common problem.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that when dispensing fuel into the fuel filler neck, the gasoline pump would prematurely shut off and not allow the fuel to consume fuel to its full capacity. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing where they detected a blockage in the fuel fill pipe venting system. The technician removed a spider nest from the vent hose. The failure mileage was 2.
My 2006 ford escape gas pedal is sticking down when temperature outside is very cold.i could not accelerate.very dangerous.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 25 mph, the coolant temperature warning indicator illuminated intermittently. The failure recurred on several occasions. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. The technician informed the contact that the vehicle could not be repaired because the part was unavailable. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 14v526000 (hybrid propulsion system) however, the part needed to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 80,000.
In 2013 the throttle would either stick and not allow you to go, or as your driving it would not go to the idle position. This happens when the weather gets cold. We had the throttle body assembly replaced at the time, now in 2016 the same thing is happening again. We are very frustrated with ford motors and the dealership. This is a costly fix and must be done again for the safety of ourselves and others. Please help us if you can.
Driving along at various speeds, the gas pedal sticks in the up position.if you need to speed up the pedal wont move. It is locked in the idle position.this almost caused a major accident when i could not speed up to get out of the way of an 18 wheeler.it nearly ran over me.the pedal has stuck at least 15 times since i have owned the vehicle.dealer says nothing is wrong with this vehicle.i have checked online and found many people are having the same problem with the 2006 escape.if the pedal sticks at the wrong time, someone somewhere will be injured or killed.
My friend borrowed my 06 ford escape, which had not shown any mechanical issues. Shortly after getting on the interstate hwy, the gas pedal stuck to the floor and rapidly excellerated to 85 mph plus, without warning. It is a 6 lane hwy and was saturday. Putting the vehicle in neutral and using both the brake and the e brake, while trying to maneuver traffic to get to the shoulder, as a tractor trailer rig was barreling by unaware. This was an extremely dangerous situation. It is miraculous that no one was hurt. The brakes smoked and the fire department was called as a precaution. It had to be towed. Upon researching further, we discovered all the complaints about the throttle body problems. I am disappointed that there have been no warnings about this issue. Will someone have to die, before any actions are taken? it seems as though prevention would go further, rather than reacting to only the extremes of death and dismemberment. I am suggesting that ford take a proactive position here and notify ford escape owners.fix the issue!!!
The gas pedal sticks and could not be pushed down unless you slammed on it.this occurred several times, and eventually stuck completely.the ford dealership in lynchburg, va, replaced the throttle body.now, two years later, the same problem has occurred.
The gas pedal would get stuck when you were driving. Had to have it replaced. It cost four hundred dollars (i think). Was told there were no other issues like this. Its been a couple of years now. Saw recently there are other complaints for this issue (online). Thanks
Gas pedal sticks whenever temperature falls below freezing. Had issues since car was new in 2006, but this week issue is much worse.normally you can push hard on the gas pedal and get it to work.this week i have to wait for the car to warm up before i can drive, the gas pedal will not budge.i've read other complaints that this is a faulty throttle body and would like to know what ford plans to do about it.
The gas pedal was stuck in the up position and my husband was unable to accelerate. This was an 3:45 in the morning in about 60 degree weather. In doing some online research, i have found that this is a common problem with the butterfly valve in the throttle system. Luckily there are very few people on the road at that time of the morning. If this had happened in heavy traffic, he could have been hit from behind.
Noticed my garage smelled of gas. Found drips of gasoline under my 2006 ford escape. I found that the fuel line under the second plastic strap from the fuel tank, the line has a small slow leak. It appears the plastic straps wore a hole in the line.
Vehicle's gas pedal constantly locks when driving no matter the climate.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving at various speeds, an abnormal noise emitted from the rear of the vehicle near the fuel pump. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vin was not available. The approximate failure mileage was 80,000.
Gas pedal sticks when cold. The gas pedal will lock up and not unlock.
When it gets below 40 degrees or so my gas pedal will stick in a closed position. You have to press very hard on the pedal for it to allow the car to move however there is a large thrust forward/backward due to opening the throttle so quickly. I have nearly hit 2 cars and almost been hit several times because the car will not go. I have spoke. With ford and they state that there is no recalls regarding the issue and that there isn't anything they can do to assist. I do know that there was a recall for the same issue on the 2001-2004 and 2007 model of the escape for the same issue. I have spoken with a few others who experience the same issue and there are several complaints regarding the same problem. This is a very dangerous hazard and could cost someone a life if the problem isn't corrected. It obviously has to be an issue with the model itself. It has never happened to me since i purchased the car this past spring from my mother, who also said she experienced the same problem.
On several occasions after getting off the highway onto an exit ramp my vehicle has died with no check engine lights, it also shuts down when making a hard turn at slower speeds.i have had issues with the accelerator sticking when it is cold outside (several times having to manually shut off engine and coast to a stop in snow). I have currently started experiencing a #3 misfire and am currently waiting for parts to come. I have already replaced all spark plugs and number 3 ignition coil. I am waiting for other 3 coils to come in. If still shooting will try replacing seals. It also was "burning" oil then started to have an actual oil leak from main seal. I do the repairs myself and apparently these are known issues. I complained to ford about the sticky accelerator and got no reply.it also makes a tapping sound from the cam shaft which i found out is typical of ford escapes.
When filling with fuel pressure not released and fuel flew back out in face.
Upon putting car into gear, the gas pedal would not cause the car to accelerate. Car had no propulsion. Important to note that the gas pedal had seemed to stick before this incident. Ford motor co. Refuses to cover the cost of fixing this problem, even though they have known about this issue for some time. This car was bought for my 17 yr old daughter. She did not happen to be driving at the time of the incident thankfully because she would not have known what to do in this circumstance.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the stop safely now warning message displayed after driving the vehicle for approximately 30-45 minutes. The contact also stated that the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the battery pack fan kit and the traction auxiliary mode actuator needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired under nhtsa campaign number: 14v526000 (hybrid propulsion system), but the failure persisted. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 134,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 45 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was able to restart. The vin was included in nhtsa campaign number: 14v526000 (hybrid propulsion system); however, the part needed to perform the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The approximate failure mileage was 163,000. The vin was unavailable.
Since buying suv trouble with rear windshield wiper, cruise control staying engaged, & turn over cold/hot start hesitation currently voluntary recalls. Ford says my suv was only affected by the windshield wiper.at 22,000 miles went to original dealer for oil change put windshield fluid ? wasn't in port or reservoir.bucking at 28,000 miles brought to other dealership during oil change.during visit told them about interior lights.suppose to check automatic transmission filter/fluid/service based on manual, but wasn't done. At other ford dealership had suv 35,830 bucking problem again and interior lighting on panels not working.was told those lights never worked or glowed? said bucking wasa suspension pin in the front passengers side, only one was changed despite 4 wheel drive vehicle. ( was towed back to dealership next day 4 bucking )ford mentioned needing new breaks soon that there was vibration and shimmy from the break pads that i was feeling?had tires done 38,177 miles & brakes 38,550 with independent mechanic non ford was told that all 4 suspension pins should have been changed simultaneously like my tires and that their is a class 1 leak from my differential/transmission-possibly just a gasket change 6-9 hours worth of labor.i contacted the ford customer service repair center i would have to pay for out of pocket despite having made note bringing in issues when vehicle was under the manufacturers warranty it is currently out. With the sensitivities to the current market felt it wasn't in my best interest to pay for the extended warranty.if ford closed who would do my work when they were suppose to do it during regular bumper to bumper full manufacturer warranty in the first place and didn't. Not to mention i still owe 2 more years worth of car note & insurance to pay off this vehicle. I don't have the money to pay for repairs that should have been covered by the manufacturer.
My vehicle's emergency brake has never prevented my vehicle from moving forward under power. It doesn't hold on a hill. If you take your foot off the brake pedal after applying the emergency brake, the vehicle will lurch forward making a grating sound. Having the vehicle in parkposition on the gear shift is what holds the vehicle on a hill. I have had brakes checked at the dealer a numberof times and they tell me that this the nature of the beast. I recently had my differentialreplaced to remove a howling sound in the rear of my vehicle after having the parking brake adjusted.(cost 3000 dollars)sound has diminished but not disappeared altogether. Now i wonder if the differential needed replacement. Also when thedealer did this repair, they told me that i had my right rear emergency brake pad missing and that they could replace it for an additional $300. I have not replaced it yet.
Since i have had this ford escape 2006 i have it has been in the shop for brakes tire pressure light steering pumps broken and the most in two monthsi had two accidents because brakes will stop and then release. I keep up on the maintenance which requires brakes check my complaints and after the firstthey accident in march we asked ford to check brakes the said it was fine less than a month later another accident same thing brakes stop and release we took it back in and the master cylinder had been broken i have children i drive children and this could definitely have hurt us or someone else my car is nothing but trouble and dangerous actually the body shop said it was broken before. The dealers conveniently say i did not complain but all service checks my brake drums are check i complain of parking brake and excessive noise.
Approximately every 8,000 miles the parking brake on the manual transmission, inline-4, fwd loosens and must be taken to the dealer to be tightened. Thus far, this has occurred twice. While parking on a hill this is a safety concern, especially since the clutch no longer holds the vehicle in place after 17,000 miles.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 50 mph, the vehicle failed to accelerate. In addition, the overdrive warning light and the emissions warning light illuminated. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The independent mechanic diagnosed that the o2 sensor needed to be repaired and the transmission fluid needed to be changed. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 72,000.
Without warning transmission completely fails. No indication of problems, just dropped the transmission on the way to work.thank goodness there was no traffic behind us or we were in an intersection.just completely stopped pulling while traveling down the road at 45 mph. Transmission rebuilt. Since then and still currently the charging light stays on constantly.has been in the automotive repair shop for a month and no one can find a problem or match the codes with an apparent problem.on it's way to a second shop for another opinion.idles high both in park and in gear, constant vibration inside the vehicle (steering wheel, dash, console etc.). Dash/speedometer makes humming noise in the afternoons. Alarm has randomly gone off twice and interior lights would not go out on their own - had to turn off manually."right rear door ajar" or "lift gate ajar" messages were displayed, but the doors were fine.message did not reset when re-closing the doors, just reset eventually on its own. Gas mileage has dropped to 15 mpg.radio volume will not come down.get louder if you touch it.this problem has been going on awhile, but now with everything else possibly electrically going on, don't know if it's related.we've already spent around $2000.00 on it and i still don't feel safe to drive it, especially after reviewing all the complaints this model escape has had.without diagnosis of a problem, i fear it may escalate to other computer issues and cause far worse driving/safety problems. Undetermined electrical/interior going crazy seems to be a common complaint even when what appears to be the problem is addressed.i am disappointed to be having such problems with this ford.my husband actually recently purchased a used acura instead of a ford because of it.i have no transportation of my own until these safety/reliability issues are resolved. ...updated 04/12/16 the consumer took the vehicle to another repair shop. She was informed the alternator needed to be replaced at a cost of $500.00 updated 04
The service engine light came on plus the wrench light.the vehicle told me to pull over safely.it would not go over 20 miles per hour.i had it towed to the ford dealership and was told it was the throttle body.i did research online where other escapes were having the same issue.the north carolina consumers council stated this online-"we have been informed that ford has issued an extended warranty for defective throttle body assemblies and sensors for 10 years or 150,000 miles from the data of original purchase. For vehicles past this time limit, the warranty is reported to be valid until january 31, 2015."since i am over the mileage i am having to pay for the part.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 30 mph, the transmission was not shifting correctly. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic for diagnosis. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 90,000.
Pushed on accelerator and rpm came up but speed didn't...was told there was a recall on the ford escape transmissions..
The torque converter has failed due to driving my car on numerous long trips. Tsb 07-5-6 describes the exact problem and fix. It occurred twice and now the transmission must be removed and the torque converter replaced for $1800. My car is only 3 years old.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 55 mph, the vehicle stopped accelerating momentarily. The contact attempted to pass another vehicle when the failure occurred. The failure recurred on an intermittent basis. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and they were unable to diagnose the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and offered no assistance. The failure mileage was 68,000.updated 3/27/12*ljthe consumer stated the transmission failed three times. Updated 05/31/12
Front wheel bearings failing.called ford and they will not cover this under warranty.bearings should last over 100,000 miles.mine started to go bad at 58,000 (approx) miles.when bearings fail driver could lose front brakes and/or front wheels leading to a crash.i have over 35 years experience with automobiles and know what a failing wheel bearing sounds like.
My vehicle's emergency brake has never prevented my vehicle from moving forward under power. It doesn't hold on a hill. If you take your foot off the brake pedal after applying the emergency brake, the vehicle will lurch forward making a grating sound. Having the vehicle in parkposition on the gear shift is what holds the vehicle on a hill. I have had brakes checked at the dealer a numberof times and they tell me that this the nature of the beast. I recently had my differentialreplaced to remove a howling sound in the rear of my vehicle after having the parking brake adjusted.(cost 3000 dollars)sound has diminished but not disappeared altogether. Now i wonder if the differential needed replacement. Also when thedealer did this repair, they told me that i had my right rear emergency brake pad missing and that they could replace it for an additional $300. I have not replaced it yet.
Driving down the freeway and my vehicle shuts off without warning. There is a loud knocking and shuttering noise like my whole engine is going to drop onto the freeway. I get to the shoulder and put it in park. As i try to start the vehicle again the engine/motor starts shaking yet again with a loud knocking noise and wont turn over. I had to get my car towed. My children were extremely scared and being on the freeway this issue is very dangerous and has been complained about multiple times.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact attempted to shift gears however, the gear shifter failed. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer or independent mechanic for inspection or diagnosis. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 60000.
We purchased a 2006 ford escape for our daughter that is in college.the vehicle only had around 92,000 miles on it when we purchased. Upon braking, the vehicle will shudder and cut off.she is able to put it in park, restart the vehicle and continue on.there is no rhyme or reason behind when this occurs. She lives in an extremely busy area and this is very dangerous for her. My husband and i have driven the vehicle and have had the same thing happen.our mechanic is telling us that he is almost positive it is the torque converter. (of course, we have left it with him for over a week and he has driven it everywhere and it will not mess up) after hearing this, i have done some research on it.why is ford not doing a recall on this?this seems so be a very common issue. Is it going to take someone getting injured or worse before they take any action?
The gas pedal on our 2006 ford escape locks up at random times, causing an inability to press on the gas pedal. The vehicle becomes instantly inoperable. The only way to get the pedal to unlock, is to get to the side of the road and turn the vehicle off and on a few times. The consequences of such actions are obviously dangerous to say the list. We have taken the car to the ford dealer and they found nothing wrong. Please go on the web and you will see numerous same case scenarios. This is disaster waiting to happen. We have to think of this each time we drive this car. Help.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 60 mph in overdrive, the transmission slipped. The contact was able to remove the transmission from overdrive and proceed in drive normally. The failure recurred when the vehicle wa engaged in drive or overdrive. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who advised that the transmission would require extensive repairs. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 100000.
Complaint of not being able to start the car in very cold weather/ gas pedal sticks intermittently although frequency of condition increases as temperatures decrease < 25f. Ford dealer diagnoses issue as a failed air bypass valve (part number: 3s6z-9f715-aa), replaced valve. Condition not cleared. Engine pedal sticks, engine rpm increases without driver input. Manual transmission only reason that driver was able to maintain control (jockeying clutch pedal to limit engine rpm). Throttle body was removed, cleaned and reinstalled. Condition not cleared. Suspect failed throttle body.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated while driving 5 mph, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated there were no warning indicators illuminated when the failure occurred. The contact was able to restart the vehicle. The failure occurred on numerous occasions. The vehicle was taken to a dealer. The technician was unable to diagnose the failure. However, after test driving the vehicle the technician stated that the torque converter needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 122,500.updated 11/24/14*ljupdated 5/7/2015
The first incident occurred while i was driving 65 mph on the expressway.i went to change lanes and hit the accelerator and the car would not accelerate and was shuddering.i had pull off the expressway and turn the car off.i tried restarting and it just shuddered again.i waited five minutes and tried again and finally it started and was able to shift.two days ago i was getting off the expressway and making a left turn when the car died and i lost steering power.i was able to fortunately get to the side of the road and put it into park.i tried restarting the car and it would not start.i waited 3 mins and was able to finally get it going.both times there was no check engine light.i had the escape read by a code reader device multiple times and there are no error codes displayed from the computer.this is a very serious and potentially life threatening issue, and would like ford to act upon it for its customers immediately.i am filing this because i have read that the issue is with a defective throttle body, and there is already an investigation into ford on this issue (pe13-003).i would like my vehicle to be added to this investigation for my families safety and all others experiencing the problem.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, the vehicle failed to accelerate without warning. The vehicle was towed to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the power transmission needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was repaired. The approximate failure and current mileage was 89,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while traveling approximately 75 mph, the accelerator pedal seized. The vehicle was not repaired or diagnosed. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure.updated 12/23/13*ljthe consumer stated the brake would work. However, the engine would idle at high speed. The consumer believed, the problem caused the transmission to fail. Updated 12/23/13
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 35 mph, the vehicle lost acceleration without warning. The contact coasted the vehicle to a parking lot. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed the vehicle with a transmission valve failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.
The truck has some issues while driving it . Its really hard to describe what its doing..but when it starts to act up i let off the gas pedal an i just coast until the engine or transmission stops doing what ever its doing then i am able to keep driving normally. I worry when ever i am driving thinking parts might drop out from under it if i don't baby it kinda..so i don't let anyone else's ever drive it because i am afraid they might not let off the gas when its having trouble in its shifting or the tranny is about to fall out underneath it ..what ever the issue is. I am not one who works on cars so how would i know what its problem is . When i have ask ford dealer ships about the problems they just tell me there hasn't been any recalls on the truck so there for there is probably nothing wrong with it. I know what ever is wrong with it i cant be the only one who has issues with my truck.i am not rough on my truck.. I have a ford escape 4dr 4x46cy 2006 anyone able to help me how do i get ford to fix this? i have gotten my truck paid off now an i don't have money to have to pay for such large repairs . Im single mom of two boys one of which has special needs ..i don't have extra money laying around to work on our truck..heck lucky to afford the gas to put in it ..[xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was able to restart after several attempts, but would stall after it was placed into gear. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the coils failed and were not getting signals from the power train control module. The pcm coil and plugs needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 61,127.
My wife was on her way to work when the vehicle started to slow and stutter. When she got to work she wasn't able to shift from drive to reverse without the vehicle cutting off. While on the interstate the vehicle almost shut down but according to her slowed way down. After work she had to cruise through all the stop signs and stop lights for fear the vehicle would stop. She made it home and that was it. I couldn't get the vehicle to go from no gear to and gear without shutting itself off. We did some research and thought it might be a shift sensor. We ended up calling the ford house (arrow ford, abilene, tx.). They towed the vehicle and i got a call later saying it was a bad torque converter. It was going to be $2,400.00 for the repair. I researched the internet and found that there is no recall and this is a common problem, (a design flaw if you will). We take care of the vehicles and don't abuse our vehicles.
While driving my vehicle it went into overdrive without me accelerating. This often occurred whether my foot was lightly pressed on the (foot) pedal or off the pedal. The vehicle lost its ability to forward drive, whereby i had to allow the car to glide of to the should of the road. When the vehicle was finally off the road i would experience difficulty shifting the gears - sticking as i tried to put it in gear. It is a manual drive 2006 ford escape. This [stalling] occurred after several trips to the mechanics before my vehicle was rendered completely immobile i.e.unable to reverse or forward drive. The mechanics, at the ford dealership, diagnosed my vehicle with transmission problems, that would require a total transmission rebuild/replacement. I have not received a recall notice, but i know that my vehicle is among the model 2001 - 2009 ford escapes that have experienced transmission troubles/recalls in last 6 months. Since ~january 2016, the vehicle was towed by the dealers and remains there, to date, with no mention of recalls on this make/model/year vehicle. I contacted ford corp. Customer services toll-free # (1) to inform them of the problem, (2) to determine the recall selection process and (3) to determine if recall notices were sent to both [my] dealer &/or manufacturer, but with not avail. Both, representatives skirted around my queries, later told me to hold on the line until they could conduct a internal inquiry but, instead, redirected the call to the telephone customer care survey -- prior to my call ending.
Tsb 07-5-6 torque converter and solenoid failed at 96000 miles and had to be replaced.happened existing the freeway and stalled in traffic
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 35 mph, the vehicle stopped accelerating. The engine was still running, but the vehicle would no longer accelerate. The contact also stated that the overdrive light illuminated moments before the failure. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and the contact was informed that the transmission needed to be taken apart. The dealer also stated that the transmission needed to be replaced.the failure and current mileages were 83,333. The vin was unavailabe.
Driving in routine traffic when the car appeared to shift to overdrive then lost all forward drive.after about two minutes, the transmission tried to engage, and then lost all drive again all recommended service had been completed and the vehicle gave no early indication of failure.we contacted ford who said they had no recalls and the vehicle was out of warranty.comments by the driver of the towing service suggested other escapes in the area have had similar problems.further research suggests this make and model has become infamous for transmission failure at approximately the same mileage.
On sunday may/23/2021 my car shut off suddenly with out warning after 3m of driving, the wrench orange lite came on, i was able to pull aside on the curb, turned off the car and waited a few minutes, i was able to turn the car back on, and the car restarted with out problem but the incident was there. When i got home i start looking on line for an explanation of what went wrong and i encounter that the 2006 ford scape hybrid has been recall for stalling problems, somehow my car is not part of the recall according with the vin number, but my car is a 2006 ford scape hybrid, i don't understand why my car its not part of the recall and i hope that it did not fall under the cracks and i hope more that my car will not get stall in the freeway and cause an accident. Please let me know if any additional information is need it
Abs failure.the car brakes may at times lock-up without notice. Transmission failure:the transmission acts as if it's in neutral when in both forward gear or reverse. Transmission appears to be in good repair but this issue persist. This issue appears to occur from a beginning acceleration such as putting car in reverse and accelerating or putting car in drive and accelerating. This also happens when you may be stopped at a traffic light and attempt to proceed only to have the car act as if it's in neutral. This slipping in and out of gear issue seems to only happen from a take off speed.
In approximately september 2006 i bought a ford escape not long after i bought it i stated having trouble with it.when i pressed the gas pedal the car would not go.by the time i would get it to a ford dealership the car had warmed up and they could not get it to do it.during the summer it does not do this but as soon as the weather cools off it will start.i have had to pull over on the side of the road multiple times because when i press the gas pedal the pedal does not move.in order to get it to not stick you have to press it and release it several times then eventually it will take off surging forward.today was the first cool day we have had and i had to cost over multiple times on the side of the road.when you pull out at stop light you never know whether it is going to be one of the times when the car is not going to go.today i pulled out several times to find out that it was one of the times the car was not going to go and was almost in several accidents.i was able to get it to a ford dealership and i explained what the car was doing.they advised me that it was lunch time and they had an appreciation lunch planned for employees and if i could come back in two hours they could have someone look at it but that it sounded like it was the throttle and that it would be around $1000 to repair. This car has always done this in cold weather and i tried multiple times to get this repaired while it was under warranty but when i would take it to the ford dealership they would tell me that they could not fix it because they could not get the car to do what i was describing.
I was driving on a residential street, doing 25 mph, when it felt like the transmission failed.i had it towed to aamco in renton washington where the transmission was replaced at a cost of $4270.50.it was the original transmission.on 2-10-2014. The transmission failed again and had to be replaced at the cost of $468.11.i have owned many cars over the years and most had well over 100k miles on them and i have never had a transmission fail, much less two transmissions fail.this seems very unusual to me.
I am one of many who have had their transmission go out on their 2006 ford escape - i was driving home with my son - stopped at red light - light turned green and vehicle would not move - had to call tow truck http://www.carcomplaints.com/ford/escape/2006/transmission/transmission_failure.shtml
Similar to earlier models 2001-2004/5.took the car in to be checked out for cross country trip and daughter was told the sub-frame supporting the engine was rusted and car was unsafe to drive.
Had a winter spell that brought about 6 inches of snow. When i left for work i got stuck at a stop sign and found myself unable to go forward or backwards. I therefore employed standard winter driving tactics slowly changing back and forth from reverse to drive in a rocking motion to get the vehicle unstuck. After freeing the vehicle i then proceeded to drive towards my work but the vehicle wouldn't stay in gear. Now the vehicle won't go into a moving gear except for every once in a while and only for a few seconds before it slips back out of gear and won't move. Can also hear a loud grinding / clacking noise coming from up front around the transmission.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 60 mph, the vehicle failed to accelerate. The vehicle was towed to dealer for diagnosis. The technician stated that the transmission would have to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 88,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact statedwhile driving at the speeds of 65 mph, without any warning the vehicle decreased in speed and would not accelerate. The contact was able to turn the vehicle on and off preventing the vehicle fromrepeating the failure. The failure occurred twice. The dealer was notified and stated that they have not heard of that type of failure. The vehicle failure was not diagnosed nor repaired. The failure mileage was 18,000 and the current mileage was 20,000.
Ford escapes have a common problem with the tone ring cracking and activating the abs & 4wd sensor lights. Many dealers charge high prices to replace the entire axles. It can be repaired by simply replacing the tone ring itself. This problem has been ongoing for a while now and ford has done nothing to correct the problem other than have dealers continue to make money on an their engineering flaw.
About a month ago my 2006 ford escape started killing on me while i was driving at low speeds and at stop signs. Id put it in neutral, and it would start right up.. I took it to ford and they said it needed a new transmission. We changed all the sparkplugs (they needed changed) it ran great for about 2 months, then it started again. More frequently, and at all speeds. It's dangerous, especially going around curves or on the freeway. I love my escape, and i don't trust the ford dealership, that tried to sell me a $2800 transmission. For some reason it's not getting spark. I've been looking for a repair manual, hoping it will help me figure out why this happens. I'm no mechanic, but it seems like it's something fixable.
Well, my vehicle has been maintained and up kept since day one, and before that my mother. The shifting solenoids are starting to go, which means the tyranny will eventually go. It searches to find gears and has never been beat on. This is quite a nuisance, constantly pulling over and starting it up again just to shift. Never has been low on fluids either. The main problem with the escapes is the transmission and although mine is not under the recall, as all others are, i feel that i have been outdone by ford [xxx] me over. Honestly the worst transmission issue i've seen with any model from ford, or much less chevy and gmcr or toyota. My corolla lasted longer than this one, over 200000 in fact! the fact of it is, this one didn't even make it to 200000. Wtf this started out of nowhere, no warning, nothing. Turned the vehicle on one day and it just didn't want to shift.jw i'm looking at a 4000 dollar bill to fix it while others have had this issue as well. I didn't even pay over 2500 for this thing so for it to be acting this way when it's always been treated w respect is nonsense. I want the recall to be extended to my model as well, seeing how they all are recalled.information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
After driving my2006 ford escape on the freeway reaching speed over 60 miles per hour it will stall. Starts up and when placed in gear to drive it stalls and shuts off.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 70 mph, the over drive warning light illuminated and the vehicle would not accelerate. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic for diagnosis. The mechanic stated the transmission would have to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 80,000.
Vehicle stalls when attempting to stop, causing loss of power to steering and brake systems.
2006 ford escape limited o/d light began to flash while on interstate. Took exit ramp from interstate, suv came to stop at stop light, unable to drive forward after stop at red light. Escape had to be towed. Mechanic stated transmission failure-would need repair/rebuild. Ford needs to recall-$3000 repair at only 64,000 miles!!
I was driving home and without warning my 2006 ford escape lost momentum. The drivers behind me could not realize my car was stopping because i was still using my gas and not the brakes. Fortunately there was a center turning lane that i was able to use and avoid a rear end collision. I was able to coast into a gas station. Long night turned into a long week and a re-manufactured transmission for $3,220.70. My ford escape has 52,214 miles on it. The transmission specialist told me that the bearings failed and that the transmission fluid looked like silver paint. Should never have happened. Ford needs to recall this (mazda) transmission.
I bought the vehicle on september 4,2015 all these problem started 1 month after.manuel transmission gets to rough at times when being shifted into 1st gear and reverse gets stuck and hard to shift, might be part of the recall no# 15s28 the engine oil seems to use 1qt a week, recently had a changed oil but continues to use the same every week, mileage is at 132467. The air bag for passenger light continues to light up and goes off when driven. A banging noise when driven on the road at rear shock absorbers are located, the shocks are still new.
I was pulling out of a parking space with the wheel turned to the left & heard a loud clunk like something fell from underneath my car, like my car literally was falling apart. I got out to check and my tires were okay, and nothing was hanging or leaking fromthe car. So i drove to my office which is about a mile away. I went to make a left turn into my office complex and i heard the clunking again. I parked and went inside to call a mechanic. The mechanic across the street from my office took it for a test drive & said it sounds like my transmission was sticking for some reason. He called a transmission guy he knows not far from there & i was able to drive it there. He drove it & said it was clunking bad & it sounded like a transmission problem. He kept it over the weekend to look everything over. On monday afternoon he contacted me & said that the clunking was the wheel bearing hub assembly and once they fix that, that could still just be the first part of the problem. He was right.after test driving it again he heard another noise that i can't describe in words.he said that it was the transfer case & something about the transfer case controlling the 4-wheel drive which is all related to the transmission. At first i was going to let him order the generic parts, but after i did some research on the warranties for 2006 ford escapes i called him back and spoke to him about what i found about the power train and transmission modules under the emissions warranty being covered up to 80,000 miles. He said emissions has to do with pollution. So i just said order the ford parts instead in the event that i have to revisit this situation. Although i would've saved about $100 now i'm not willing to take that chance if something else happens & ford say they are not responsible because they are not ford genuine parts. My car is still in the shop because they had to order the parts and then they will be able to complete the replacement of the transfer case and parts.
The transmission in my 2006 ford escape went out on me while i was driving.upon on having a mechanic tear it apart, it was found that a bearing and the clutch went out in it.the same mechanic, before working on my transmission, did research and found that many other escape owners had the same problem and that ford has not issued a recall know wing that there is a problem.the mechanic found that there should be a shift kit that was not there.i also learned that no ford trained technicians would work on my escape.
The vehicle slipped in to the neutral position but was still in drive and trans doesn't engage correctly.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving 65 mph, the vehicle decelerated without warning and stalled. The contact experienced the same failures listed in nhtsa campaign number: 15v606000 (power train), but the vin was not included in the recall. The vehicle was towed to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 97,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, the vehicle failed to accelerate. The vehicle was towed to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the power transmission needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was repaired. The approximate failure and current mileage was 89,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was taken to a dealer for diagnosis and the contact was informed that the torque converter was cracked and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified but offered no assistance. The failure and current mileage was 90,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving 30 mph, the transmission seized and the overdrive warning indicator illuminated. The contact turned off and restarted the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified. The approximate failure mileage was 126,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 70 mph, the transmission overdrive warning light illuminated as the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was towed to a transmission mechanic to have a diagnostic performed. The failure was located at the transmission, which needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The vin was not available. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure and current mileage was 80,000.
Air conditioningwent as wellas replacement of ball bearing and pulleybecause they seized and just yesterdayaugust 27,2008 the battery went.
Suv would not go into gear.could not get gear shift to move to reverse, drive , or neutral.dealer replaced shifter assemblyfor $335.90.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While the contact was driving approximately 25 mph, attempting to make a turn, the transmission suddenly failed to operate without warning. After numerous attempts the transmission began to function with extremely little movement. The contact was able to maneuver to the side of the road safely. The vehicle was towed to an authorized dealer and had been there for over a month, and currently remained. The dealer informed that there was internal damage within the transmission, and discovered a computerized system defect. The dealer performed repairs to the transmission and continued to investigate the computerized system defect. The failure mileage was 61,000.
The 2006 ford escape has transmission problems due to a manufacture defect. I talked to a mechanic from ford and he said that these transmissions are defective, on all escapes, there are postings online where people are saying the same thing about their escape. My escape only has 65000 miles and it has the same issue, the ford dealership says they cant pinpoint the problem so they have to just replace it. A ford mechanic online said the casing weld internally is faulty making the transmission loose pressure. Other people online have posted the same thing happening to their tranny on their escape, i would like to suggest that it need be recalled, its costing my family to repair the problem,when ford is responsible for the defect on theirfaulty transmission.
Driving on expressway in boston car totally died. (thankful there was a lot of traffic) car started and then locked up engine still revving transmission in 2006 ford escape blew with no prior warning. Car is in excellent condition.
While driving our 2006 ford escape, on christmas eve, it began running extremely rough with banging, clanking and grinding noises, bucking, and jumping, with an apparent odor of gear fluid entering the vehicle.the engine light did not illuminate., and the on dash board computer system didn't report any problems, when checked. We drove it home and then to a transmission repair place, where they took the transmission apart .the transfer case was filled with metal shavings and the gears were completely stripped. The torque converter is bad and also has to be replaced.we were informed that it would have been extremely unsafe for the escape to be driven any longer in this condition, and parts were actually banging into one another and could have fallen onto the ground.we are having the transmission repaired, and a used transfer case in good condition is being installed in it.this vehicle is called an all wheel drive vehicle, but the 4-wheel drive system has never been engaged.the vehicle has never been used to tow anything, and has just 51,287 miles on it.
Suv stalledcould only get suv to run from neutral.if moved gear shift from park to drive car would stall.dealer replaced valve assembly-throttle air.
Have a 2006 ford escape with 80,000 miles. Driving to work one morning and took off from stopped position and heard a noise under vehicle. The over drive off light started flashing.a few miles down the road the transmission started slipping and then went completely out. I have read several other complaints on the same issue and feel that ford should recall.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape xlt. The contact was driving approximately 30 mph, pressure was applied to the accelerator pedal, followed by no power response until a second or third attempt. The failure occurred in cool weather temperatures after the initial start up in the mornings and nights. When the contact allowed the engine to warm up for ten minutes after the initial start up the failure would not occur. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 72,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving , the transmission failed. The vehicle was taken to a local repair shop where it was diagnosed that a rod located between the converter and the pump fractured. As a result, the pump would need to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure but did not offer any assistance since the vehicle was out of warranty. The vehicle was repaired. The failure mileage was 67,000 and the current mileage was 70,950. Updated 07/08/11 updated 07/18/11
I have had to bring my new car 2006 ford escape to the dealer(5xs) where i purchased it for an ongoing squealing problem when the car is started in the morning. Any fixes are temporary and the squeal continues on a new car this should not be happening.. My concern is that is a more serious problem like the transmission and they just are not fixing it, i have a full warranty and now i notice when i put my car in park i still move and i hit the brake but i am in park? my car is going back in again this wed the last time was just a few months ago and they had it for about 5 days... This is the last time for me.
My transmission went at 60k i bought it at 44k no one send me a service note that it had to be serviced at 50k the ford company found a transmission with 70k & was going to charge me 1900 a independant found the same one & charge me 1000 how sick is this & they wonder y people do not go back to the ford co. & i will not.
For the third time in the past two months the gear shift on my 2006 ford escape will not move out of park.the dealer has replaced the gear shift assembly, checked the grounds, now is back in the service department. I truly believe this is a factory defect and not a one time issue.
Since buying suv trouble with rear windshield wiper, cruise control staying engaged, & turn over cold/hot start hesitation currently voluntary recalls. Ford says my suv was only affected by the windshield wiper.at 22,000 miles went to original dealer for oil change put windshield fluid ? wasn't in port or reservoir.bucking at 28,000 miles brought to other dealership during oil change.during visit told them about interior lights.suppose to check automatic transmission filter/fluid/service based on manual, but wasn't done. At other ford dealership had suv 35,830 bucking problem again and interior lighting on panels not working.was told those lights never worked or glowed? said bucking wasa suspension pin in the front passengers side, only one was changed despite 4 wheel drive vehicle. ( was towed back to dealership next day 4 bucking )ford mentioned needing new breaks soon that there was vibration and shimmy from the break pads that i was feeling?had tires done 38,177 miles & brakes 38,550 with independent mechanic non ford was told that all 4 suspension pins should have been changed simultaneously like my tires and that their is a class 1 leak from my differential/transmission-possibly just a gasket change 6-9 hours worth of labor.i contacted the ford customer service repair center i would have to pay for out of pocket despite having made note bringing in issues when vehicle was under the manufacturers warranty it is currently out. With the sensitivities to the current market felt it wasn't in my best interest to pay for the extended warranty.if ford closed who would do my work when they were suppose to do it during regular bumper to bumper full manufacturer warranty in the first place and didn't. Not to mention i still owe 2 more years worth of car note & insurance to pay off this vehicle. I don't have the money to pay for repairs that should have been covered by the manufacturer.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated when driving approximately 35 mph, the transmission slipped excessively and then failed to operate. The vehicle was towed to an authorized dealer where they advised that the transmission would need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 48,037.
For the second time in two weeks could not move gear shift out of park.dealer replaced shifter assembly the week before.this time dealer tightened all the ground connections.this suv is leased through a commercial lease and has been problematic from the day i leased it.
2006 ford escape transmission slipping,we have had no problem with the transmission up till today,and it just went.the overdrive light started to flash..them we last overdrive..then drive 2..and so on.all thing i have read on line we are not the only ones and i do feel there is a problem with there transmission..for it just to go out of the blue and not just on our but on all the ones i read about..with no warning at all.we have kids and we travel and if this would have happened when we were not near home,i would be stuck on the side of the road with a 2year old and not happy.i do feel someone should look in to this cause there are a lot of people paying very high repair bills to fix these,and some of these bill are like 3to 4 thous dollars.so please look in to this and help out the little guys and see if this is a quality problem and if they should be covered by the ford motor company. Thanks
Blown transmission after only 38,000 miles on a 2006 ford escape xlt v6 4wd.
Transmission was loosing fluid and valve assembly throttle body was replaced. Over $700.00 repairs. Only 39,000 miles on vehicle. Ford no help on repair.
Vehicle transmission problem - there was no indication of a transmission problem until it completely quit at 75,000 miles. Towed vehicle to the dealership and was told the torque converter came apart and filled the transmission with metal.i declined service at the dealership since they wanted too much money to repair or replace the transmission. An extended warranty was purchased at the time vehicle was purchased which was good for 72 months or 75,000 miles. The vehicle had exactly 75,700 miles when transmission went out and was told warranty would not cover the repair expenses. Vehicle was towed to an independent transmission shop for repairs.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. Immediately after she started the vehicle it began to hesitate and the speed would not increase beyond 50 mph. She was able to safely shut the engine off and have the vehicle towed. A mechanic confirmed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The manufacturer stated that there were no related recalls and the dealer could repair the vehicle at the owners expense. The vehicle has not been repaired. The failure and the current mileages were 84,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated the failure started with the abs light coming on. The contact was told by a mechanic the tone rings needed to be replaced. After the tone rings were replaced, the transmission started to make a rumbling sound. The contact took the vehicle back to the mechanic and was told the transmission had final drive damage and may need to be replaced. The failure mileage was 76,000 and the failure mileage was 77,500.
Tl-the contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving at 35 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was towed to a dealer. The technician diagnosed that the pcm needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 116,000. Djr
My 2006 ford escape sporadically will not release from "park".jeff jenkins, service rep, told me the vehicle could not be diagnosed unless it was inoperative at time of inspection.
After traveling for 3 hours on highway the very first stop i came to, my car stalled. I restarted it and it stalled upon putting it back into drive (manual transmission). It stalls now upon any stop from driving and when in drive and upon moving into a reverse froma parked position. I found out that there is a problem on this car with the torque converter remaining in locked position after cruising at highway speeds. Ford asked me to take it to a dealership to be diagnosed. I did and the service advisor told me that there was no way that could be the problem. After 3 hours of inspection he said that was the problem. For customer service got involved and tried to force me to do my completely unrelated maintenance with them in exchange to fix the transmission that they know failed, saying they needed some "loyalty" from me. They then sent me out in what they said was an unsafe vehicle. They then called me back and tried to tell me they wanted me to pick up approx. $682 of the $1815. They know that this is a problem with this transmission and are holding me hostage to replace.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving at speeds greater than 5 mph, there was a loud grinding noise from the vehicle. The abs and 4-wheel drive warning lights were illuminated on the instrumental panel. The dealer was contacted and they advised him that the failure was common in that particular year, make and model vehicle. The failure and current mileage was approximately 53,900.
As i got home i tried to unbuckle the seatbelt and it would not release. Multiple tries still didn't help. I had to pull really hard to get it to release and hurt my hand. Each time since has made it significantly worse, it locks in but does not want to release. Took me ten mins to get it unhooked last time i used it.
In 2011, i purchased my used 2006 ford escape. About 3 months after purchase, i noticed the passenger side air bag light would activate when an adult would sit in the passenger seat, signifying the air bag was "off" when it should be activated. Today i had my local ford dealer check the air bag to see if it worked properly. They discovered that not only would the air bag not operate properly in a crash, the seat belt would also fail to lock as it should during a sudden stop or crash. Since there is no recall issued and the vehicle is out of warranty, the cost to repair the seat belt and air bag is all my responsibility. There should be a recall issued for this vehicle and any others known to have this problem. I was told it took a certain number of vehicles to be diagnosed with the same problem before any agency would issue a recall. Even one vehicle with this problem should prompt a recall, because technically, this malfunction could cause serious injury or death in the event of a crash.
I purchased a 2006 ford escape in april of 2006.since then two major safety issues have come up.first occurred in 2007. While driving at slow speed through a parking lot, a faulty bolt holding the rear tire to the chasis failed.this resulted in the right rear tire falling into the wheel well and a significant loss of control of the vehicle. Ford replaced the bolt.the second incident occurred april 13, 2008.i entered the vehicle and attempted to buckle the seat belt.it would not buckle.in both instances i was lucky that 1- i was not moving at any great speed and 2- did not need use of safety equipment.
Dt*: the contact stated while driving 55 mph on dry road conditions at 8:02 pm, the front left corner of the vehicle struck another vehicle, causing the contact to run off the road.the seatbelt was worn and both fog lights and head lamps were illuminated.the bottom portion air bag partially deployed, but the top portion failed to open.the seat belt did not lock, resulting in impact with the steering wheel causing two fractures of the sternum, a hematoma to the left chest, and fractures to the left shoulder, as well as, heavy bruising to the forehead.the vehicle was towed to an impound and a police report was taken.photographs were taken of the vehicle and the contact was taken to the hospital.the vehicle was towed to the service dealer for repairs and manufacturer was notified.repairs were made prior to the manufacturer's engineer inspecting the vehicle and the service dealer refused to provide the contact with the defective parts.
2006 ford escape xlt customer states that the seat covers had to be replaced, the car would not turn over and jerking while driving over 70 mph and rear wiper not working correctly**ccthe consumer stated sitting at a stop light, the vehicle shut off. The consumer was able to restart the vehicle, but the rest of the way to her destination, the vehicle was riding rough and jerking.the dealer diagnosed the problem as a inoperative torque converter.the consumer stated the vehicle would stall, drive roughly and jerked on several occasions. The vehicle also would shift hard and lurch forward while the cruise control was activated.
Dt*:the contact stated after driving for 15 minutes at any speed on a normal road conditions the driver seat and the front passenger seats create a severe pain at lumbar back region.the contact expressed the two front seats were not ergonomic, as they were in all vehicles previously owned.updated 9/15/2006 -
I would like to complain about the the height of the arm rest in my 2006 ford escape. I am a tall person and drive with the seat in the farthest rear position and find that i have to alwaysraise up my arm and elbow in order to safely make a right hand turn. I feel that this creates a potential safety hazard and could cause an accident. I have looked for lower replacement armrests and have not been able to find something suitable to rectify this situation for me.
Victim was driving vehicle and noticed smell of smoke.victim felt vehicle seat was extremely hot.victim pulled over, stopped vehicle, and stepped out of vehicle.victim noticed that seat had a small burn hole in it caused by a malfunction in the seat warmer accessory.victim had seat warmer accessory engaged at the time of the incident.victim did not sustain bodily injury.vehicle was returned to selling dealer (jordan ford located in mishawaka, in) for repairs which were performed under warranty.
Abs and 4x4 sensor lights activate and flash on dashboard abs braking fails , sensor rep[laced and went out again after a year. Seems to be a problem with numerous escapes as found in online search.
I have a 2006 ford escape with a deep concern and issues with the abs (braking) system. The abs instrumentation light periodically comes on indicating an issue with the braking of the vehicle. There is a noticeable difference in the performance while braking of the vehicle when the abs light is "on". The experience is a sliding and/or jerking when the vehicle is in motion. Searching the internet there are many complaints surrounding this braking issue for the ford escape. This is apparent in several model years for this vehicle. This is a very dangerous issue concerning brake failure. Ford motor company and many dealerships are aware of this dangerous issue that has not been addressed.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving 35 mph, the rear passenger shock mount fractured and caused the brake hose to rupture. The contact stated that all of the brake fluid leaked out of the hose. Preston ford in burton, ohio was made aware of the failure and stated that there were no recalls on the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 113,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.the contact stated that while driving 30 mph, there was an abnormal noise coming from the rear passenger side of the vehicle. In addition, the contact stated that the brake pedal required excessive force in order to reduce speed. The contact discovered that the rear passenger side brake line was leaking brake fluid.the vehicle was taken to a private mechanic where it was diagnosed that the shock power was rusted. As a result, the frame needed to be welded with metal replacement plates. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 138,000 and the current mileage was 138,198.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape hybrid. While pulling into a residential driveway at 10 mph, the brakes failed to stop the vehicle and the pedal traveled to the floorboard when depressed. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was towed to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the master cylinder and hydraulic system failed. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 114,000. Updated 06/08/16*ljthe consumer stated the brake pedal was stuck in place for approximately5-6 secs before the pedal traveled to the floorboard.
Occasionally when applying smooth pressure on the brake pedal, it becomes very firm and looses braking power. If the pedal is released and reapplied then the brakes work again (for now). This sometimes causes the "check brake system" warning light to appear. This light may or may not remain on after turning the car off for a while. This issue has been reported by many others, and should be handled by ford as a recall as a properly working braking system is vital to the safety of everyone on the road. Date indicated is of the most recent occurrence (on the way to the dealership).
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving70 mph when they attempted to brake the vehicle due toneeding to come to an abrupt stop, however, the vehicle failed to immediately brake. Instead, the vehicle veered to the left towards the concrete barrier in the middle of the freeway. The contact then attempted to counter steer the vehicle. Fortunately, the vehicle stopped just before hitting another vehicle. The contact took the vehicle to a certified mechanic who diagnosed that the subframe had rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired.the manufacturer was made aware of the issue and informed the contact that the recall that related to their failure was nhtsa campaign number: 14v165000 (structure). The approximate failure mileage 139,000. *ln
Parking / emergency brake failed.cable routed from hand lever to rear brakes goes through a bracket mounted to the underside of the body. Bracket separated from under-body of vehicle rendering hand brake inoperable. Vehicle was stationary on a slope with regular brakes applied.parking brake was being applied to keep the weight of vehicle on an incline off off transmission park lock.
I have the hybrid version of escape. I was exiting a freeway when the abs yellow light and brake red light came on my dashboard. I then pushed the brake pedal and noticed the car wasn't slowing down as it should that's when i slammed on the brakes to make the car slow down. I immediately pulled over to the side of the road. The dashboard read regen brakes disable.i turned off the car and restarted it. The car worked like it did before but when i ran a diagnostic on the car it still read the regen brakes disabled. The car worked fine with the warning but eventually after driving for about 15 minutes the warning went away.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 15 mph and attempting to decelerate, the brake pedal became stuck to the floor board. The contact was able to stop the vehicle by engaging the emergency brake. The vehicle was towed to a local mechanic, who performed a brake inspection which located the front passenger's side brake line was fractured prematurely. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure and current mileage was 35,000.
On 12/23/14, vehicle cut out after backing out of parking to enter moving traffic on highway. The second time it cut out,12/24/14, the vehicle was being driven down the roadway. That time, the vehicle sputtered, sounded like a winded horse, running on three legs. My car was always well maintained, including oil changes every 3,000 miles, transmission flushes every year, fuel injection cleaning every other year. With the double timing chain, i was assured at purchase, that they rarely break. I could not understand what had caused this. Then, i am told it is a pcm failure caused by spark plugs , coils, that were not compatible with the pcm, or where the resistor was ineffective to combat the feedback from the coils/ spark plugs, and therefore caused the computer to shut down three cylinders of my engine. Apparently there were tsb bulletins to dealerships on this issue, but no recalls, because ford determined that the pcm failure would probably occur post-warranty. However, car owners should have been notified, there should have been a recall. I was in the last few months of paying for this vehicle, and am faced with a $2500 bill, that i do not deserve, because it is in no way linked to my own negligence of vehicle maintenance! to me, it is a form of built-in obsolescence, that might be ok with small-cost items like watches, but should never be allowed with high-cost items, such as cars!
This the second ford focus hybrid 2006 we have had a brake pedal issue with.already had to replace brake master and hcu with the 1st one 2yrs ago and have not had the issue again. Here we go again with the same model different car and we re visit the same problem with hard to stop or wont stop during normal driving and only periodic. Way too much money 7000.00 with 83k miles.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape hybrid. The contact stated that while driving at an unknown speed, the srs brake warning light illuminated while the contact was applying the brakes. In addition, the brake pedal traveled to the floorboard abnormally and the vehicle failed to stop. The contact applied extreme pressure to the brakes in order to stop the vehicle as the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was able to be restarted and resumed normal operation. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for diagnosis and the contact was advised that the anti-lock brake hydraulic unit and master cylinder would need replacing, and two gallons of brake fluid was needed. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and the current mileage was 95,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving 45 mph and depressing the brake pedal, the service brake system warning indicator illuminated. The brake pedal traveled to the floorboard and the vehicle failed to stop. The contact had to apply the emergency brake to stop the vehicle. The contact powered off the engine. The vehicle was restarted, but the failure recurred. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence and was later taken to hertrich ford lincoln (1427 bay rd, milford, de 19963, (302) 725-0031) where it was diagnosed that the abs hydraulic control unit needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired due to the repair fees. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle was not under warranty. The approximate failure mileage was 107,405.
Vehicle was being driven and without warning when brakes were applied the pedal went all the way to the floor.the abs light then came on.my child was being transported in the car and an accident almost occurred.towed car to mechanic and discovered this has happened to a lot of people, yet when i checked there was no active recall on this item.shop says it needs a new ford oem abs module assembly 3f2z2c219ab. Updated 7/24/18
While driving (not braking) the car on an interstate highway for about one hour, the abs and brake lights illuminated on dash along with the message "service brake system" and a ping sound.when brakes were next applied they had become very soft and not as responsive.i pulled into a safe area and turned the ignition off.after waiting a few minutes, the car was restarted and all of the above mentioned lights and messages were gone and the brakes were working correctly. Continued to drive again and the message didn't reoccur for several hours. The problem has happened several more times on both highways and rural roads and always fixed by turning the car off and letting it sit for a couple of minutes. The problems don't initiate when we are actually braking. Took the car to our ford dealers service department where they ran a diagnostics test. The report they gave us said " verified customers concern. Retrieve coda 1524, 1526. Brake pedal travel sensor related. Also retrieve codes for traction battery cooling fans."the service dept recommended replacing the brake master cylinder (at a cost of $2078.95) and the hybrid battery cooling fans (at a cost of $716.99).
Purchased a 2006 ford escape hybrid in oct. Of 2018. Today (nov 2019) the brake system decided to go out (a known issue with feh) while we were driving on a curvy road while my two kids were in the car. We tried slowing down before entering the curve and the brakes would not work. Luckily we are fine but the outcome could have been drastically different. I've only put 10k miles on the car and now ford of ocala is sayingeven though it's a know issue they will not do anything about it. We spoke with donna who was understanding but still gave us no solution. She forwarded the issue to the sales manager and we are waiting on his call.they basically stole 7 grand from our family. We'll be pursuing this legally until the issue gets resolved.
After traveling for approximately 1 mile at 35 mph, the engine suddenly shut off.upon safely stopping the vehicle in a parking lot.the engine re-started with no issues.drove the vehicle for approximately another mile at 35 mph when it shut off again.re-started with no issues.have not driven the vehicle since then.no fault codes were generated & no apparent problems have been detected.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, there was an abnormal noise coming from the front end of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the brakes and the brake lines needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 128,000.updated 5/18/15
Driving down a street in my neighborhood when the brakes failed. In previous occurrences i was told that the calipers froze up and that the brakes would make a grinding noise. Also the computer system on the vehicle would never record the proper amount of fuel in the tank or at times engage the brakes. I am not a professional but i know this vehicle did have issues. The vehicle was in motion on a city street and when i applied the brakes nothing happened. Upon impact it appeared i hit the steering wheel before the airbag deployed. I had my seat belt on. I have driven down that city road thousands of times but it appeared this time there was a issue with he vehicle that caused this accident. Injuries were airbag related.
Vehicle gas pedal had to be depressed fully to the floor with assistance of emergency break to bring vehicle to complete stop in light traffic at around 9:30 pm.pulled vehicle into empty parking lot and had vehicle towed to service center (lake zurich tire & auto, inc.) where it was left overnight.following morning mechanic looked at vehicle and it was determined that front right brake hose failed and left front brake hose was leaking.there was very little brake fluid left.mechanic stated that both hoses showed deterioration which was unusual for a vehicle with this mileage.he also stated that this was the 5th escape around this model year that he has seen with this issue within the last couple ofweeks.i sent a letter to ford customer relations today requesting reimbursement of $282.32 for the necessary repairs.
Was heading west driving the vehicle on alameda crossing wagsworth boulevard which the state of colorado says that those are both highways they're more like city streets but highways what is doing a repaving project i personally did not see any notification of work going on as they had strip the asphalt from wadsworth and was repaving left a 6in high drop into the pavement and back up to the old pavement. What is a massive jolt that sure both front brake lines off has no brakes to stop how do you use handbrake. Got ahold of cdot and was told martin marietta was the company in charge of the repaving project was told they would not do anything about it as they said that there was warning signs posted.
Brakes failed at 10 mph. All brake lights system on dash turned on. Brake was hard and unable to stop vehicle when approaching stop sign. Brakes then released and got soft and would not stop vehicle. Hydraulic cylinder unit failed & master cylinderneeds to be replaced. Was approaching a major intersection if brakes failed a few seconds later may have been a fatal accident.
Abs light came on at 59408 miles.vehicle was taken dick masheter ford in columbus, oh and repaired on 12/1/11 by replacing left front abs tone ring.at 68005 miles, the abs light came on once again.vehicle was once again taken to dick masheter ford in columbus, oh where the vehicle was again repaired.this time both left and right abd tone rings were replaced.failure of the abs tone ring after less than 8600 miles of operation may indicate a systemic issue for the particular vehicle.
2006 ford escape. Consumer writes requesting reimbursement for driver side tone ring repairs. *ldthe consumer stated on the vehicle the tone rings were exposed to the elements. This makes them prone to breakage. Updated 09/27/2017
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While the vehicle was parked, the driver side brake line fractured. The contact mentioned that the brake pedal was depressed and traveled to the floorboard. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the passenger side brake line needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacture was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 101,154.ma 08/04/15updated 9/29/2015
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact was driving 30 mph and depressed the brake pedal but the vehicle would not respond. The contact stated that the brake pedal was depressed into the floorboard abnormally and the vehicle would not slow down completely. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection where they informed the contact that abs tone ring needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired but the failure recurred several times. The manufacturer was notified and stated that they would file a report. The failure mileage was 20,000.
I am havingtrouble with my brakes even after all repairs and spending about $1000 dollars my car brake dashboardlight is still on and very less brakes are applied .i have to press brakes with lots of thrust but even after that vehiclemoves little ahead
Abs failure.the car brakes may at times lock-up without notice. Transmission failure:the transmission acts as if it's in neutral when in both forward gear or reverse. Transmission appears to be in good repair but this issue persist. This issue appears to occur from a beginning acceleration such as putting car in reverse and accelerating or putting car in drive and accelerating. This also happens when you may be stopped at a traffic light and attempt to proceed only to have the car act as if it's in neutral. This slipping in and out of gear issue seems to only happen from a take off speed.
Sudden reduced braking capacity while driving.check abs light comes on.one has to push completely down on brakes to get vehicle to stop.wait for 5-10 minutes, system resets and you can continue to drive until at some day and time the same conditions reoccur.research on issue indicates the hcu maybe failing but price to replace exceeds the worth of the vehicle.use of vehicle is now limited due to unpredictable ability to stop car while in motion.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving at any speed, the brake pedal failed and caused the vehicle to accelerate unintentionally. The abs and brake lights illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to both the dealer and an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that there was no issue with the vehicle, yet the failure progressed. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 83,800.
Brake peddle went soft and failed to stop vehicle in reasonable distance for speed, less than 10 miles/hour. This was on a city street starting left turn at about 10 mph.
While driving at lower speeds and city speeds, abs light come on with service brake system message appears while driving and turning.braking is tough and barely stops even with hard foot pressure on pedal.this is an ongoing problem that intermittently happens. Once you let the car sit for awhile (since you are scared of driving it), the braking system resets and problem is not seen for months...until it occurs again.inquiries to ford about problem estimate the cost of replacing cylinder, hcu, and bleeding brakes far exceeds the value of vehicle.annoying as this brake problem was identified as a weakness of this car's braking system as far back as 2005!why does ford not recall and fix a known problem in a timely manner?may have to scrap an otherwise excellent working vehicle because it is unsafe to drive and unsafe to fellow drivers since it may not reliably stop.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, she heard a loud noise coming from the vehicle followed by the illumination of the abs warning light. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where they advised that the o-rings failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The failure recurred twice within a week. The manufacturer was contacted and offered no assistance. The failure mileage was unknown. The current mileage was approximately 84,500.
While driving the vehicle the abs light came on, followed by the "service brake system" request light and the red brakes light.i had "soft brakes" but i could still use the brakes so i drove the vehicle to the local ford ferrario dealership.it is now a week later and i was told that the abs needed to be replaced at a cost of $4800.00.i then replied to not replace the abs as i have been a cautious driver for over 45 years and drive defensively.the shop tried unsuccessfully to bleed all the tire's brakes as i requested that i "at least" have hydraulic brakes and it be able to maintain the fluid level.all worked properly excepting the left front tire.this evening i went and retrieved the vehicle from the shop after they had replaced the leaking hose on the left front tire (also had them replace the hose on the right front tire).according to the conversation with the lead technician my front brakes were hardly used (over 60% of the cars braking) and looked like they were rusting or corroded over while the rotors and all the parts replaced exactly one year prior still looked new.being confused about this, asked why no one had caught this earlier.while on the way home from the shop (without proper brakes and only the emergency hand brake and the hybrid low gear to slow down rapidly with) i reset all the functions like i normally do after a service shop visit.low and behold the abs light went out, but there were still no brakes with small exception.i am now wondering both how and who is going to be able to repair this vehicle without further excessive cost (paid over $480.00) that i've already incurred without having the brakes available to me.because i work contract jobs and typically drive to jobs or job sites i am now without a vehicle.the larger concern for me is that this type of ford suv hybrid vehicle has a rash of brake problems.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 45 mph the brakes were engaged and the anti lock brakes failed. The vehicle was taken to a dealer for diagnostic testing. The technician stated that the tone ring would have to be replaced. The failure occurred on several occasions. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated the vehicle was not included in a recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 33,219 and the current failure mileage was 70,000.
The contact owned a 2006 ford escape. While driving 62 mph over a pothole, the brakes seized and the vehicle skidded sideways. The vehicle struck the barriers on the side of the highway and spun around twice before stopping, facing the opposite direction. The driver's side and window were smashed in and the alignment was damaged. The vehicle was totaled. A police report was filed and there were no injuries. The vehicle was towed to a friend's business. The manufacturer was contacted and provided a case number. The dealer had not been contacted. The cause of the failure was not determined. The failure mileage was 36,000.
Abs constant activation, then abs system off.found a cracked tone ring on driver side fr wheel.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 5 mph, when the brake pedal was depressed, the automatic braking system engaged independently. As a result, the vehicle shook violently. The contact discovered that the front tone rings were cracked and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 70,000.
I have a 2006 ford escape with only 46,708 miles and my abs/awd lights and have been going on and off just out of nowhere. Also, related to this when i press down on my brakes there is a loud scraping noise that it makes. I have done some research and it looks like it could be a bad tone ring (abs ring) and seems very common with this type of vehicle. I have looked around and most service repair places want to replace the entire axle for around $600 dollars. I should not be having this type of problem with a vehicle that i have had for only about a year or so. Please investigate this issue with this type of vehicle. Thank you!!!
Service abs and 4wd on ford escape.seems too common! http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/ford-escape/t6tejmprnvn7f47o5/p2.
Since i have had this ford escape 2006 i have it has been in the shop for brakes tire pressure light steering pumps broken and the most in two monthsi had two accidents because brakes will stop and then release. I keep up on the maintenance which requires brakes check my complaints and after the firstthey accident in march we asked ford to check brakes the said it was fine less than a month later another accident same thing brakes stop and release we took it back in and the master cylinder had been broken i have children i drive children and this could definitely have hurt us or someone else my car is nothing but trouble and dangerous actually the body shop said it was broken before. The dealers conveniently say i did not complain but all service checks my brake drums are check i complain of parking brake and excessive noise.
I have a 2006 ford escape v6 2wd. Both abs tone rings cracked with only 58k miles. This is the same defect that ford recalled on the 2001-2004 models. This defect causes the abs system to fail and turn off. I have read that the 2005,2007, 2008, and 2009 have the same failures. That means every model from 2001-2008 have had the same defect without being addressed.
The anti-lock brakes engage when coming to a normal stop. Happens every day and i am told it is a very common problem with the escapes where a plastic ring comes unglued and causes the abs to engage when it is not necessary. Have almost hit multiple vehicles and nearly ended up in a few intersections because the abs prevents me from stopping normally on dry surfaces.
Tone ring failure on abs brake system on 2006 ford escape.brake fade until computer system notes sensor failure and indicates abs failure light.the system does this for each engine startup--brake fade until error coded out.a cheaply made piece, low parts replacement but expensive mech repair requiring removal of caliper and axle hub....all items that are well rusted into place.an extremely poor design for such an important safety feature.
- the contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving at 15 mph the contact heard a popping noise when she depressed the brakes and noticed that the brake lightilluminated. She had to use the parking brake to stop the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, whostated that the wiring harness should be replaced. The dealer changed the wiring harness.however, six months later the contact experienced the same problem. The dealer was inspecting the vehicle to determine the reason for the most recent failure. The current mileage was 16,900 miles. Consumer has included multiple invoices stating brake system went out. The dealer performed multi point inspection and performed the various tasks:reinstalled side front panel, replaced harness, alignment of front end and rear, replace upper strut bearing and bushing, bled brake system. Update *4/16trthe abs light and brake light illuminated.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving approximately between25-35 mph on normal conditions; the brake warning light indicator illuminated on the instrument panel.in an attempt to apply pressure to the brake pedal there was a grinding noise followed by a low power response.the warning indicator light remained illuminated until the engine was turned off and the four wheel drive light illuminated intermittently.the contact was able to drive with caution.the vehicle has not been repaired. The contact is aware of the safety risk involved. The failure and current mileages were 104,000. The vin number was unavailable.
Brake failure.in one short distance, both front flexible hoses carrying brake fluid ruptured totally losing brake response.car was brought under control by other means.we could have been killed in a varied circumstance.it was necessary to have the car towed for repairs.
My vehicle's emergency brake has never prevented my vehicle from moving forward under power. It doesn't hold on a hill. If you take your foot off the brake pedal after applying the emergency brake, the vehicle will lurch forward making a grating sound. Having the vehicle in parkposition on the gear shift is what holds the vehicle on a hill. I have had brakes checked at the dealer a numberof times and they tell me that this the nature of the beast. I recently had my differentialreplaced to remove a howling sound in the rear of my vehicle after having the parking brake adjusted.(cost 3000 dollars)sound has diminished but not disappeared altogether. Now i wonder if the differential needed replacement. Also when thedealer did this repair, they told me that i had my right rear emergency brake pad missing and that they could replace it for an additional $300. I have not replaced it yet.
2006 ford escape xlt, c/o left front abs (anti lock braking system) tone ring failure... At 94,782 miles on my odo my left front abs tone ring broke completely in-half causing a abs sensor failure and the brakes became temporarily semi-unresponsive for a few seconds ( 3-5 seconds ) when i pressed on the brakes to stop the car. Braking was greatly reduced as if the car thought i was sliding on ice or snow. After the system detected failure ( 3-5 seconds) the abs light came on in my dashboard and the abs system seemed to be deactivated by the car. When i got home and took the left front wheel off and inspected my brakes and abs sensor, i noticed the left front abs tone ring was completely rusted, free spinning loosely around the axle and was broken completely on one end. I went onto google and researched this problem and found that many other people have encountered the same problems on their ford escapes. I would like this to be investigated as i think that perhaps the abs tone rings ford used are faulty and could pose a danger to motorist by causing significant loss of braking ability over a few seconds as direct result of the abs tone ring failure. The abs tone ring is replaceable by ford or you can buy the part at a parts store. Repair does involve removing part of the axle, so it is best done by a mechanic or trained professional.
The 05-06 ford escapes have a major failure in their braking and axle system. I bought a new escape in 2006 in less then two years the abs light came after replacing the front brake pads. I took the car to a mechanic and he stated that the front axle has "teeth" on it that easily break off and therefore disengaging the abs system. On a daily basis the breaks "thump" like they are not able to stop the vehicle, this happens at any speed, even while trying to pull into a parking spot. This has not caused any accidents but we never know if the brakes are going to work they are suppose to. My vehicle was past its warranty when this problem first occurred, and now i have to pay for the replacement of the entire front axle because a engineering malfunction. The mechanic stated that ford is aware of the problem but they refuse to place a recall on the parts. I inquired about fixing the problem, he stated that the parts, which again is the entire front axle, is on back order for around 5 months and the cost is around $1500.00.i have also talked to several people who own ford escapes and they have the same issue. If ford is aware of the problem and they know there is a problem because of the lack of front axles why hasn't this constituted a recall or at least a safety investigation.
Upon purchase rumbling was felt while braking. The fuccillo car dealer mechanic said that it was the 4wd kicking in. This problem continued and once the 90 day warranty was up their story changed. The abs light came on and the tone ring needed to be replaced. He said they have had many of these and be looking for a recall. This is definitely a safety issue as the brakes begin to clang and bang without warning.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 40 mph, the rear windshield detached from the vehicle. The vehicle was stopped and the contact noticed that the hinges for the windshield were broken. The vehicle was not taken to have the failure diagnosed. The contact repaired the vehicle himself. The contact also stated that while driving 40 mph in snowy conditions, he applied to brakes and the anti lock brake warning light illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not taken to have the failure diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 45,000.
I was driving home from work, going about 35 mph when i felt my car start to slid like it was on ice even though the pavement was dry. My abs light and my service 4wd light came on. I had a very hard time getting home because the brakes were failing. I came home googled it and realized that it was my tone ring and that it was a common problem. Sure enough next day took it to a ford dealership and that's what it was. The problem dates back to 2000 ford escapes and as recent as 2010 ford escapes. The mechanic at the dealership advised me that the ring could snap just from turning a corner. I don't know why ford isn't being required to fix this issue. Why are the being allowed to put this same product in the vehicle year after year knowing its inferior. When the ring breaks it makes it very hard to stop the car which is a huge safety hazard.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 50 mph, the abs light and four wheel drive light suddenly illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was driven to the contact's residence and parked. Upon restarting the vehicle, the contact noticed that none of the lights were illuminated; however, after driving approximately 4 miles, the lights illuminated again. The vehicle had not been diagnosed or repaired. The failure continued to occur. The failure mileage was 70,683 and the current mileage was 70,890.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While the contact was driving approximately 5 mph, the brake pedal began to pulsate excessively when pressure was applied. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for diagnostic testing. The abs sending unit was replaced; however the failure continued to occur after the vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the defect. The approximate failure mileage was 46,200. Updated 07/08/11 updated 3/16/12
The abs ring (tone ring according to ford) on the front right axle fractured during driving. This sent a false signal to the processor and applied the abs while the vehicle was travelling at highway speeds. This extended the braking distance to an unsafe and unpredictable length on dry pavement. Two months after the first incident and replacement of the front right ring the front left ring broke again setting off the abs at an unpredictable time.
I own a 2006 ford escape. It has 70,683 miles on it.i was driving on the highway (50 mph) and noticed the abs light on and the 4wdlight was flashing.this has occurred twice in the last two days. The first occurrence,i added brake fluidand the lights went out. This happened again two dayslater on the highway and around the same rate of speed..
I purchased a 2006 escape hybrid on april 9th & immediately it had brake failure problems - essentially no brakes. It has been at dealership since april 10th. They claimed it was fixed on april 22 & when i went to get it, same problem happened in test drive. They have no idea what else is wrong. They replaced the brake sensor, but obviously that didn't resolve the problem. This is a major safety issue especially in south florida, where the ability to properly brake is highly essential.
Vehicle's front wheel constantly pulls to the left when applying brakes has jerked steering wheel out of hand 3 times.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving at speeds greater than 5 mph, there was a loud grinding noise from the vehicle. The abs and 4-wheel drive warning lights were illuminated on the instrumental panel. The dealer was contacted and they advised him that the failure was common in that particular year, make and model vehicle. The failure and current mileage was approximately 53,900.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.the contact stated that the abs light illuminates and the brakes fail.he must apply the emergency brake in order to stop the vehicle.the dealer replaced the entire abs, but the failure continued.the most recent failure occurred on march 1, 2008.the manufacturer informed the contact that he would receive a call back.the current mileage was 32,000 and failure mileage was 31,723. Updated 04/29/08.*lj
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the brake pedal was depressed but was firm. The service brake system warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to ron dupratt ford located at 1320 north first st, dixon, ca 95620, to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the brake hydraulic control unit was defective and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 95,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape hybrid.the contact stated that the brake warning light intermittently illuminates and displays "service brake system".the vehicle was taken to the dealer on several occasions, but they have been unable to repair the failure.the current mileage was 22,000 and failure mileage was 160.updated 04/11/08 updated 04/11/08
I own a 2006 ford escape. My problem is i have had popping and squeaking noises in the front end since i purchased the vehicle. I had taken it to the dealership several times for the noises they would always make comments like it must only be when i'm driving that it makes the noise. Needless to say when i complained enough about the problems they checked the suv and replaced the wheel bearing at 5,000 miles, it also needed new swaybar links,at about 8,000 miles they told me they orderedthem. However weeks later they still had not received the parts and i then started have problems with my brakes, when i pushed the brake on the steering wheel would vibrate. Then at 13,000 miles i had to replace both rotors at my expense because the dealership refused to pay for them under warranty( funny isn't it you have a bumper to bumper warranty till 36,000 and it isn't covered ). Now it having 18,000 miles ihad to have the new rotors turned.the dealership never replaced the swaybar links. I thought if you had a a problem they could not fix it would fall under the lemon law in missouri, it is apparent they can not fix the problem. What can i do ? i havea 8 month old grandson in the vehicle everyday (well when it isn't in the shop for some reason) i do not feel safe driving with the front end problems it keeps having. I ampaying 25,000.00 dollars for a vehicle that is unsafenot only to my family but to others on the highway. Please advise me on a helpful solution. Thank you for taking the time to read and acknowledge my problems with my escape.
My power steering fails at low speed. I have had it into the dealer and they acknowledge the power steering piston pump needs repair at a cost of approx $900.00.
When you first start driving the vehicle the steering is very tight when turning like it's in 4wd but after you drive it some it loosens up and drives fine. Only when it first starts. There is issues with the steering being tight
Since i have had this ford escape 2006 i have it has been in the shop for brakes tire pressure light steering pumps broken and the most in two monthsi had two accidents because brakes will stop and then release. I keep up on the maintenance which requires brakes check my complaints and after the firstthey accident in march we asked ford to check brakes the said it was fine less than a month later another accident same thing brakes stop and release we took it back in and the master cylinder had been broken i have children i drive children and this could definitely have hurt us or someone else my car is nothing but trouble and dangerous actually the body shop said it was broken before. The dealers conveniently say i did not complain but all service checks my brake drums are check i complain of parking brake and excessive noise.
On 12/23/14, vehicle cut out after backing out of parking to enter moving traffic on highway. The second time it cut out,12/24/14, the vehicle was being driven down the roadway. That time, the vehicle sputtered, sounded like a winded horse, running on three legs. My car was always well maintained, including oil changes every 3,000 miles, transmission flushes every year, fuel injection cleaning every other year. With the double timing chain, i was assured at purchase, that they rarely break. I could not understand what had caused this. Then, i am told it is a pcm failure caused by spark plugs , coils, that were not compatible with the pcm, or where the resistor was ineffective to combat the feedback from the coils/ spark plugs, and therefore caused the computer to shut down three cylinders of my engine. Apparently there were tsb bulletins to dealerships on this issue, but no recalls, because ford determined that the pcm failure would probably occur post-warranty. However, car owners should have been notified, there should have been a recall. I was in the last few months of paying for this vehicle, and am faced with a $2500 bill, that i do not deserve, because it is in no way linked to my own negligence of vehicle maintenance! to me, it is a form of built-in obsolescence, that might be ok with small-cost items like watches, but should never be allowed with high-cost items, such as cars!
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving various speeds, the powering steering made an abnormal noise without warning. The failure recurred numerous times. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vin was unknown. The approximate failure mileage was 130,000.
This has happened 3 times now, 2 in southern california on the freeway at night. Hybrid vehicle has recall problems which makes vehicle stop running. Had it fixed, paid out of my own pocket in southern california and thought problem was fixed. Something to do with battery. Then on friday, dec. 12, it happened again as i was driving home from college, the vehicle stopped suddenly. I couldn't pull over, it won't restart even after many attempts. I waited 5 to 25 minutes, vehicle would not start. Finally had to call a tow truck to closest ford dealer. I thought dealer could fix problem after having it all day but when i left and headed on highway, my hybrid vehicle stalled again on the highway. I have ptsd from this car, i never want to get in it. I don't trust it and after 3 different ford dealers, all of my own money to pay, car still doesn't work properly. I paid a premium to purchase this vehicle and it is worthless. Now i am receiving more recall notices about the airbags. I am afraid to drive my vehicle because if it stalls again i might be in a horrific accident as it stops suddenly with no warning whatsoever.
Significant vibration felt at steering wheel when driving at highway speeds. Enough vibration felt to cause fatigue to the operator's forearms/hands - most unpleasant when driving 100+ miles.
When driving,the steering, will sway to either the right or left.only slightly.i bought new tires alignment. New tie rods.and .still issues
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving70 mph when they attempted to brake the vehicle due toneeding to come to an abrupt stop, however, the vehicle failed to immediately brake. Instead, the vehicle veered to the left towards the concrete barrier in the middle of the freeway. The contact then attempted to counter steer the vehicle. Fortunately, the vehicle stopped just before hitting another vehicle. The contact took the vehicle to a certified mechanic who diagnosed that the subframe had rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired.the manufacturer was made aware of the issue and informed the contact that the recall that related to their failure was nhtsa campaign number: 14v165000 (structure). The approximate failure mileage 139,000. *ln
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 65 mph during inclement weather, the steering wheel seized and the contact lost control of the vehicle. The contact took the vehicle to a local mechanic for a diagnostic test and the mechanic stated that the electric power assist was defective and needed to be replaced. The contact did not have the vehicle repaired. The failure mileage was 130,000.
On my 2006 ford escape i almost died on highway because the subframe on passenger side of the ford broke. Upon looking up information i noticed that their was a recall for ford escapes 00 _04 but that escape is the same frame and structure. I never owned a car that the frame was suppose to brake like that. I hope nobody ever gets hurt but this.problem should be addresses because that car is very popular.
Right rear wheel housing completely gone.first indication of any issue was when shock no longer properly supports.rust and total de-lamination of metal housing supporting shock.fear of shock punching through - into cargo hold in the area of the jack storage.
After traveling for approximately 1 mile at 35 mph, the engine suddenly shut off.upon safely stopping the vehicle in a parking lot.the engine re-started with no issues.drove the vehicle for approximately another mile at 35 mph when it shut off again.re-started with no issues.have not driven the vehicle since then.no fault codes were generated & no apparent problems have been detected.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the steering wheel made a noise while driving and turning at various speeds. The vehicle was taken to a private mechanic for inspection who located the failure at the steering wheel universal shaft. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made ware of the failure. The failure mileage was 61,000 and the current mileage was 62,000.
On july 24, 2015 my wife and 2 kids, 6 and 2 years old were almost killed when the powered steering system failed, the car was impossible to control and hit the curve going over the sidewalk. My 6 year old got a bruise on his head from hitting the window and a walking pedestrian almost got killed. If my wife was going a little faster, we would be dealing with a murder by negligence case. The power steering in this model is electrical, not hydraulic; i have attached pictures of these parts. Ive never seen this system before; as an electrical engineer i know this system is unreliable for any of the critical safety systems in a vehicle, such as steering or brakes. The motor could short or the brushes may wear, motor drives may burn, and even a low battery could turn these steering assistance into a load, making maneuvers even more difficult. Also a computer code could create problems that can cause fatalities making sharp turns at high velocities. A hydraulic system may go low on fluid and make sounds; it may get a little harder to turn but never will get totally stuck. This system is not safe for something as critical as the steering train!
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contacted stated while driving at 35 mph there was an abnormal noise when the steering wheel was turned. There was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to several independent mechanics however, the vehicle was not diagnosed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and informed of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 169,000.
The steering in my escape started to become tighter and tighter as i would turn and so, i scheduled a maintenance check through my local ford service dept.much to my surprise, they found that the rack and pinion had gone bad.i have 40,000 miles on my vehicle and as you know this exceeds the typical 3yr/36,000 mile warranty.my truck is 13 months old.this is a major component of the vehicle and could have caused me to have an accident.
2006 ford escape xlt awd - vibration in steering wheel and can be felt in body at about 55-65 mph.into dealer 4x for attempted repairs.consulted with factory.no idea what is causing it.dealer stated some of the models on the lot had the same problem.this could be an engineering fault or an assembly fault - but ford is selling faulty vehicles- and not taking any serious attempt to rectify.could potentially be a serious mechanical failure in the future.
The passenger side rear wheel well has rusted through exposing the shocks and struts.the vehicle is unsafe to drive.the corrosion of the rear wheel well is not a wearable part and cannot be controlled or caused by the end user.this is a manufacturing defect.the corrosion of the rear wheel well can cause the shocks and struts to dismount, which could lead to vehicle rollover resulting in injury or death.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 35 mph, a loud noise was heard from the rear of the vehicle. The contact discovered a hole in the rear passenger wheel well. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the wheel well was corroded and caused the shock absorber to separate from the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 107,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the rear passenger wheel well experienced severe corrosion. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the rear wheel well assembly needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 84,000.
Dt*: the contact stated the vehicle grinds during start up if it sits for a couple of days.on 04-18-06 the vehicle began to sputter along with a delay in the accelerator pedal and the engine.the dealership admitted there were other vehicle's with the same year, make and model that has the problem.the dealer arranged an appointment for the vehicle to be inspected this week.updated 5/16/2006 - the door ajar light illuminated intermittently.the dealer lubed the door and applied weatherstripping.
My right wheel well has rusted out completely and the inside compartment is now open to the outside. There is a terrible, constant rattling noise and a horrible clunking noise every time i go over a bump.
Began to notice a rattling noise/clunking in right rear corner of vehicle. Took the vehicle to our mechanic who told us that the right rear wheel well was completely rusted through and the shocks were exposed. Only the right rear wheel was rusted. Informed by our mechanic that the vehicle was not safe to drive and we would need to have it towed to the body shop. When we contacted the body shop and said we had an issue with the under body on our ford escape he new immediately that it was the right rear wheel well because it was the 3rd ford escape with the exact same problem in less than 2 months. We were fortunate that we only had to wait 3 days for the part as we were told that the last 2 ford escape owners had to wait 6 weeks because the partwas on back order from ford. Looked online and there were hundreds of complaints for ford escape with exact issue (always only the right rear wheel well) from 2004 on. Obviously this is a recall issue that should be address by ford before someone is seriously injured or killed.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving various speeds, a banging noise was present coming from the rear of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who discovered that the rear wheel well was severely rusted around the shock mount. Also, a rusted hole exposing the interior of the vehicle was present. The cause of the failure was not determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The local dealer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 57,000.
When a driver was travelling down the highway, the hood flew up on this vehicle that we use for the company. This happened to another ford escape the company has, year 2010, that i am also going to file a complaint on as it is a major safety issue with no current recall.
While driving i heard a loud noise then shortly after heard something rubbing then very shortly after my left rear tire blew out.i stopped to look and it looks like the area where the rear strut attached to the body completely rusted away.the car is most likely not repairable.
Excessive rusting in right rear fender well , shock mount coming undone. Loud banging noise inside vehicle. Safety issue.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving, the vehicle shook severely. The contact inspected the vehicle and could visibly see the rear passenger shocks. The contact also noticed damage from where the rear tire was hitting the rear wheel well and caused pieces of the well to detach. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnoised that the passenger side rear wheel well was severely corroded. The contact referenced nhtsa campaign number: 14v165000 (structure); however, the vin was not included. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 136,000.
The rear passenger wheel well is completely rotted around the connection for the shock absorber.no body shop will repair as it is too costly and too much of a liability they claim.driving along and suddenly the car got loud in the back.shock absorber had come through the interior of the automobile. Car has rust on back "trunk" door and a on the edge of the wheel well exterior on the same side, but remaining parts of the car have very little or no rust.but when you look inside the wheel well you see all the rust around the shock absorber. Google search shows i am not alone with this issue - others report same issue with passenger side rear and people are considering sueing ford.2001-2004 escapes had a corrosion recall on the front suspension, but there is nothing for years 2005 and newer.this is should be looked at.
Right rear wheel housing completely gone.first indication of any issue was when shock no longer properly supports.rust and total de-lamination of metal housing supporting shock.fear of shock punching through - into cargo hold in the area of the jack storage.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 55 mph, the contact heard a bumping sound under the vehicle. The contact noticed that the rear passenger side wheel well rusted at the shock mount. The vehicle was taken to a dealer for diagnostic testing. The mechanic stated that the wheel well needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 159,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving 45 mph, there was a loud noise in the rear passenger side of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the rear body fractured. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 156,000.
The right, rear wheel well and shock support is nearly entirely rusted out.the rust damage i've observed appears to be much more significant than otherwise would have occurred due to normal wear and tear.the left wheel well is not suffering from the same corrosion problem.a quick google search shows that this is a seemingly widespread problem impacting 2004-2006 ford escapes.i've checked with my local ford dealership, and contacted ford corporate, and have been told that there are no known issues.i do realize that i live in new england and that the vehicle is 8-years old.however, i take very good care of my vehicle, and the damage i'm seeing seems to be clearly above beyond what would be warranted from normal wear and tear.
Driving this morning when i heard a banging noise when i hit any bumps in the road. I was fimiliar with the escapes wheelwell rust issue. I liked under the passenger side and found the undercoating was falling off and the shock absorber was barely hanging on. I have a 173000 miles on it. I know ford will not do anything about this on their own. Fixes are expensive, like a new wheelhouse , which has to be welded in, according to dorman or an l bracket for about 200 dollars, or cob something up myself. I'm 60 and live here in upstate ny, and no way should this be happpening. Salt or rain, there should have been something to prevent this. Something changed after 2006 by ford. Unless there is a recall , no one is going to help you.you know the term...s.o.l.....
Rear wheel wells where the shock mounts is rusted through causing ride and control issues. I noticed clunking while driving caused by the rust and lack of shock stability. I talked to other owners and found this is a common issue.being that my vehicle is not rusty and is cared for regularly this is bad and i am no longer going to invest my money into it.this is a safety concern and i feel with as common as the issue seems it should be taken care of by ford as the shock being loose coming into the interior is another safety concern, and the wear and tear from the tire ride causes premature tire wear not to mention wear and snapping the break line causing the brakes to fail.
Similar to earlier models 2001-2004/5.took the car in to be checked out for cross country trip and daughter was told the sub-frame supporting the engine was rusted and car was unsafe to drive.
There is a clunking sound coming from the rear passenger side. It happens every time i hit a bump. Upon inspection i see that the passenger side rear wheel well is completely rotted and rusted and involves shock mount. It is unsafe to drive and research shows that this is an ongoing problem with this model. I was told not to take my truck on the highway because if i were to hit a bump at 65 mph, i would be "asking a lot of this car to hold together."i reported the damage to the ford dealership.i was told to contact ford directly and if they were to write up a work order then i was to come back for repairs.so the ford customer relationship hotline informed me that no recall had been issued for this vehicle, and that they were unaware that this was a common, frequent, or widespread problem. They did not consider it a defect.i am unemployed at the moment seeking disability so that mean no income.what am i suppose to drive now?????
There is excessive corrosion in the passenger side rear wheel well and the shock absorber has broken since there is nothing to connect to causing a safety issue. Research on the internet shows this is a common problem with this year and 2005. It was taken to the dealer and they and ford will do nothing stating the vehicle should be scrapped.
Purchased new 2006 ford escape,maintained and garaged no rust on car anywhere. .last week noticed loud noise right passenger wheel.brought to my shop he said unrepairable rusted wheel well.when i brought to ford dealership they confirmed that this was the problem and the cost to repair was more than car was worth. I feel 10 years is not acceptable for the life of a car.
The left quarter (dog leg only metal patch) severily rusted and i had it repaired , my vehicle was only 6 years old and should not have been rusted out.only the left side is affected and no water rest in that area.now here i am 3 years later and that same area on the left side is rusting again and eventually it will be rusted out just like before.it's like the rust came back with a venegence the guy at b& k collision where i had my vehicle repaired advised me he couldn't guarantee me that the rust wouldn't resurface, well it's happening again.my issue is why is it only affecting the left side and i can't afford to keep paying for what obviously is a defective pain and/or part!!!i've seen other ford escape with the same issue, same side, etc!!!
The right rear wheel well of my 2006 ford escape has rusted completely away, where you can see into the inside of the car from the outside. It is causing a constant rattling and a horrible clunking noise every time i go over a bump.checking online, i see that this has been a problem for some time now and the shock has completely separated from the vehicle. Ford has always been a company to stand behind their vehicles, so i imagine it will only be a matter of time before a recall is issued, but someone needs to do something about this now before there are fatalities involved.
The right wheel well has rusted out completely around the shock.i can see into the car from the outside. There is a loud rattle constantly and a horrible clunking noise every time i go over a bump.
Heard a banging noise as i was driving that sounded from trunk. Nothing in trunk, rear passenger wheel well the shock tower had fallen through the wheel well which appeared to have rusted out.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving70 mph when they attempted to brake the vehicle due toneeding to come to an abrupt stop, however, the vehicle failed to immediately brake. Instead, the vehicle veered to the left towards the concrete barrier in the middle of the freeway. The contact then attempted to counter steer the vehicle. Fortunately, the vehicle stopped just before hitting another vehicle. The contact took the vehicle to a certified mechanic who diagnosed that the subframe had rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired.the manufacturer was made aware of the issue and informed the contact that the recall that related to their failure was nhtsa campaign number: 14v165000 (structure). The approximate failure mileage 139,000. *ln
Bought vehicle for 17yr old son first car. While he was driving, he noticed a loud banging sound from the back. After investigation, found that rear wheel well had totally corroded away and rear shock was poking into the interior. Reported to ford who said no recalls and would do nothing. When researching problem on the web, it turns out that many people have had the same problem. The ford dealer advised me not even to drive it home as it is a safetly hazard and that the wheel might fall off.if this was a one off situation, i might be able to accept it, but how can ford continue to allow people to drive around in a car with an obviously known defect and that their dealers tell you is deadly.i cannot continue to support an american company with such an attitude.
On march 12,2014i was driving to the post office when my car made a loud "thunk" and began to shake severely. Feeling unsafe and being a short distance from my home i immediately returned there.upon inspection i discovered that the right rear wheel well had rotted out and the shock had penetrated through the interior of the car behind the rear right passenger seat. The date of manufacture on the drivers door is 5/2005.
Significant rust through in right rear wheel well where shock absorber attaches to frame. While driving, shock came detached from frame of car.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that there was an abnormal banging in the rear of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection where they stated that the rear inner and outer fender well was corroded and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 117,000.updated 08/15/13*ljthe consumer stated the right and left inner wells rusted away.
Passenger side wheel well rusted out, impacting shock mount also.
Our 2006 ford escape began making a rattling noise in the rear passenger side whenever we hit a bump. I initially thought it was a loose panel until i looked under the rear-passenger wheel well and noticed the massive amounts of rust and corrosion around the shock absorber. After doing some research, it appears that this is a fairly widespread issue that ford has done little to remedy. It has since become a consistent issue anytime we are driving, there is at least a rattle--even on smooth roads. While we have tried to reduce the amount of driving as much as we can, making only necessary trips and completely eliminating any extraneous use of this car, the damage only seems to be getting worse, and at an alarmingly fast pace. This is our only vehicle and we are not in a position to buy a new car right now. If there was a recall on a similar issue for 2001-2004 models, why hasn't there been a recall on later years? the vehicle is a liability on the road--we cringe every time we have to take it out (again, it is our only vehicle) and we don't know which bump is going to completely ruin the car. An investigation into this widespread corrosion issue needs to be performed and all necessary steps need to be taken to ensure that the safety of everyone on the road is maximized despite shoddy construction of this vehicle.
When driving i started noticing a loud banging sound starting when driving over small bumps in the road. In taking the vehicle to the local ford dealer repair shop for an oil change we had them check out the sound that i heard. They pointed out the right, passenger side rear wheel well. At this time we were told the repair was not an immediate repair that was needed but would need to be repaired. We planned to wait until the local roads were repaired from the pot holes developed through winter. A month and a half later, on march 20, 2015 the sound had become extremely worse and i feared for my safety. We took it to a repair shop and they stated the vehicle was no longer safe to drive. The right side rear wheel well had rusted through and the suspension is barely attached to the vehicle. In researching online this is a prevalent problem through several year models not just the 2005. When i called the ford customer service hotline i was told ford was unaware and that they did not know this was a safety problem despite the numerous listings of people online saying they have reported the same kind of issues.
Premature rusted out wheel.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 45 mph, the rear passenger side of the vehicle started shaking violently. The contact observed rust on the rear passenger side tire. The failure recurred continuously causing the vehicle to become inoperable. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 150,000.
Escape wheel well rust caused strut to detatch from vehicle.i was driving down the highway when i heard loud thumping noises, i checked and didn't see anything that it might be so i took it to a mechanic who showed me the excessive wheel well rust that caused the strut to detatch from the body.he said it was not safe to drive and that it must be fixed by a body shop as he couldn't fix it. I got estimates from body shops as well as ford and they all said it would be around $4,000 to $5,000 this is no other rust on the vehicle other than the excessive passenger rear wheel well rust and is has only 130-140k miles on it.now i cannot drive it without risk of a major accident due to the problem so it is sitting in my garage.i have photos but am unable to upload them to this site at this time.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving over a bump at various speeds, the contact heard a knocking noise near the rear of the vehicle. After inspecting the vehicle, the contact discovered that the passenger side wheel well was rusted and caused the strut mount to separate from the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician indicated that the wheel well needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 94,000.
My daughter was alerted to a problem when loud banging noises started recently when driving under normal driving conditions.upon inspection by a mechanic, he discovered that the passenger side and driver side rear wheel wells body parts and shock absorber mounts have significant rust damage.our vehicle is well maintained according to the manufacture's schedule and as recommended by the ford dealership service department.i do not understand how we could not have been made aware of a potential issue before during previous tire replacements, shock replacements, and other services that would have had the opportunity to see the problem.the passenger side rear wheel well is so bad that the dealership service department indicated that it is not repairable and referred us to their body shop.the attached pictures show that the interior of the cabin is now exposed.i also have an audio recording of the noise inside the vehicle when driving under normal conditions.my daughter was also cautioned by the mechanic about an imminent failure of the suspension. This is a safety hazard that has been widely reported on the internet.there was a recall by ford for 2001-2004 for the same issue on the same model.i contacted ford motor company customer service line and they indicated there was no recall for our vehicle.based on our experience and the issues reported by others with the same problem for later model years, there should be a recall and action by ford to repair these later year models such as ours as well.
The right wheel well of my 2006 ford escape (limited) is completely rusted out. I can no longer drive this vehicle because the shock is about to break through the interior of the vehicle. The rust has caused exhaust to pour into the vehicle. Before knowing about this, i took my vehicle to several different mechaincs because i could smell exhaust. They couldn't find anything. A canadian auto body person (i love on the border) told me that it was coming from the holes in the right wheel well and showed me the large hole where exhaust is leaking in. This is a serious safety issue that all escape owners (2006 at least) need to be made aware of!!! i can't take and attach photos at this time due to the weather but can provide them another time, upon request. I should note that i live in northern michigan and that i have taken meticulous care of this vehicle.
While driving my vehicle on a highway, i could here a loud clunking sound coming from the rear. After investigating, it was visibly noticeable that the shock tower on the rear passenger side rusted completely off the vehicle. This allowed the wheel to bounce freely and the shock to jam up into the wheel well repeatedly. The vehicle is unsafe to drive.
Right rear wheel well totally rusted out, no repair shop will fix.loud knocking when driving, can not drive afraid wheel will fall off.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that a noise emitted from the rear passenger side wheel while driving. The mechanic inspected the wheel and found that the rear passenger's side wheel well was corroded with a hole. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure and current mileage was 70,000...updated 04-22-14 updated 04/24 /14
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact heard a loud banging noise coming from the rear passenger side of the vehicle when driving over a bump in the road. Additionally, the odor of exhaust fumes was present in the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the rear passenger side wheel well was rusted and corroded, which caused exhaust fumes to enter the vehicle. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 160,000.
I have a 2006 ford escape. My car alarm started going off on it's own for a few days. Then the car "ajar door" light came on while i was driving from a doctors appointment.so i took the car into a ford dealership to get the problem inspected.i was told that there was a right rear door fault.so i asked him to explain.the tech said that ford had redesigned the rear door latch and that it requires a new cable which will cost me $404.00 to replace.needless to say my jaw hit the floor, because that was just one door.apparently, after searching online for a cheaper solution, i came across so many complaints of the same problem since 2001.evidently ford have not solve the problem. It's a safety hazard.if the rear door latch is likely to go bad then it's jeopardizing the safety of the children that's required to sit in the back seat.it probably would be so bad if it were cheaper to replace, but $404.00 is ridiculously high.if they knew that they had to redesign the latches a recall should have been made.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The lift gate latch would not release, the back glass would not open, and the drivers seat belt would not unlock when the release button was pushed. The dealer tried to remedy the seat belt failure and was unsuccessful. The contact is concerned about the safety risk and the possibility that he could become trapped inside the vehicle. The current and failure mileages were 88,000.
8/11/2006i was knocked out and pinned by the rear hatch door of our 2006 ford escape. I opened the rear hatch and leaned in to remove some items from rear of the ford escape and the hatch came slamming down hitting me in the back of the head and rendering me unconscious (i am not sure as too how long) i came to face first inside the ford escape with the door pinning me down and my feet hanging out the rear. It was almost impossible to get free of the rear hatch and become free. I found one of the rear strut slaying inside the rear compartment and the other practically broke and dangling from the right side of the rear hatch. After coming to my senses i took the ford escape to our local dealership (simi valley ford) and turned it in for warranty to fix it (we have the 3yr/36000 mile bumper to bumper + the top ford extended warranty , i checked it into our local ford dealership (simi valley ford) and was told they would fix it and would we need a rental car which we said no we have my ford excursion to drive.about a week later i receive a call from keith (simi valley ford service ) saying ford refuses to fix or stand behind this problem and for us to turn it into our insurance.we feel this is fords defect and they should stand behind it , so our insurance company has sent out a investigator but they are not sure as to what happened.this is a ford defect on our 2006 ford escape with 7100 miles and ford is trying to say its wear and tear , we don't think so , we feel its a huge safety issue which ford is trying to avoid. We hope no other people or children have been or will be hurt by this defect , for the hatch is extremely heavy and could easily could kill someone of weaker stature.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving 55 mph, the hood cover detached from the vehicle. The contact was able to pull the vehicle over. The dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was called and suggested the contact use hood pins when he replaced the cover. The contact informed the manufacturer that he would replace the cover with a part from the junk yard. The failure mileage was 180,000.
There seems to be a problem with being able to open my trunk door. A while ago, something like august 2014, i went to open the trunk to put groceries in and it wouldn't open. Tried locking and unlocking again. Nothing worked. So i went a few week without being able to open the trunk. One day i decided to try it again and it worked. But now, january 2015, i tried opening my trunk the other day to take the groceries out of there and it wouldn't open again. I still cant open it so i think im gonna have to take it to a mechanic. Also the handle on the rear right door seems to be loose.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the frame on the vehicle was completely rusted. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who diagnosed that the frame was damaged beyond repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 159,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.the contact stated that while driving 30 mph, there was an abnormal noise coming from the rear passenger side of the vehicle. In addition, the contact stated that the brake pedal required excessive force in order to reduce speed. The contact discovered that the rear passenger side brake line was leaking brake fluid.the vehicle was taken to a private mechanic where it was diagnosed that the shock power was rusted. As a result, the frame needed to be welded with metal replacement plates. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 138,000 and the current mileage was 138,198.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.in very cold temperature, the vehicle seized and the wheels would not move upon acceleration.the steering column was in a straight position and the vehicle moved in reverse, but not in a straight line.while the vehicle was being towed to the dealer, the tow rings slipped and detached from the tow rod, which proceeded to pull the frame from the vehicle.the dealer stated that the bolts were defective and sheared off the vehicle, which caused damage to the frame.prior to the failure, the contact filed a complaint regarding the vehicle's failure to start in cold weather.the failure and current mileages were 41,000. Updated 3/24/09 the consumer stated her vehicle came equipped with a tow hitch and tow supports that should be recalled because it was defective.the bolts broke away from the frame support when the vehicle was being pulled out of a snow embankment.updated 03/27/09.
Cracked cross member on sub-frame that hold rear wheels on..bad weld.
The right rear fender wall has totally rusted out to the point the shock is not even attached to the frame. Internet search has shown this is happening on many many of these 2004-2006 ford escapes. We we're lucky to discover the defect before someone was hurt.
I was driving home going about 45mph and all of a sudden i hear a loud noise coming from the left rear of the vehicle. Though it could have been the tire, so i pulled over to check and the shock is completely rusted and apart.
The rear shock mount failed due to rust. This appears to be a common problem with ford escapes built in the years 2005 and 2006. It seemsthis failure is a design flaw. Ford refuses to pay for the cost of repair. When the failure occurred the vehicle was no long operable. I had to have the car towed to the repair shop.
Driving home from work, began to hear thumping sound from right rear. Thought it might be an issue with the tire. Got progressively louder and more frequent until i stopped and inspected. Found the right rear strut to be nearly detached from the vehicle assembly.
Our 2006 ford escape began making a rattling noise in the rear passenger side whenever we hit a bump. I initially thought it was a loose panel until i looked under the rear-passenger wheel well and noticed the massive amounts of rust and corrosion around the shock absorber. After doing some research, it appears that this is a fairly widespread issue that ford has done little to remedy. It has since become a consistent issue anytime we are driving, there is at least a rattle--even on smooth roads. While we have tried to reduce the amount of driving as much as we can, making only necessary trips and completely eliminating any extraneous use of this car, the damage only seems to be getting worse, and at an alarmingly fast pace. This is our only vehicle and we are not in a position to buy a new car right now. If there was a recall on a similar issue for 2001-2004 models, why hasn't there been a recall on later years? the vehicle is a liability on the road--we cringe every time we have to take it out (again, it is our only vehicle) and we don't know which bump is going to completely ruin the car. An investigation into this widespread corrosion issue needs to be performed and all necessary steps need to be taken to ensure that the safety of everyone on the road is maximized despite shoddy construction of this vehicle.
We heard a loud bank noise coming from the rear passenger side.upon inspection by an independent dealer the rear shock absorber had become detached from the body due to body rust.this is a recurring issue with ford escapes and a recall was issued on the 2000 to 2004 models.there were several similar complaints noted on the nhtsa website for 2005.our vehicle is a 2006 model but has the same issue.when will ford act with integrity, step up and fix this issue.
Rear passenger wheel well completely rusted out. Suspension not mounted to vehicle now, and hammers bottom of interior when going over any bump in the road. Every other wheel well is fine. All mechanics i have spoken with, including a ford certified body shop will not touch the issue and advised me to scrap the vehicle.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 35 mph, the rear passenger wheel well and the shock absorber corroded and fractured and busted through the rear of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection and they stated that the rear passenger wheel well and the shock absorber needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 63,000.
When driving i started noticing a loud banging sound starting when driving over small bumps in the road. In taking the vehicle to the local ford dealer repair shop for an oil change we had them check out the sound that i heard. They pointed out the right, passenger side rear wheel well. At this time we were told the repair was not an immediate repair that was needed but would need to be repaired. We planned to wait until the local roads were repaired from the pot holes developed through winter. A month and a half later, on march 20, 2015 the sound had become extremely worse and i feared for my safety. We took it to a repair shop and they stated the vehicle was no longer safe to drive. The right side rear wheel well had rusted through and the suspension is barely attached to the vehicle. In researching online this is a prevalent problem through several year models not just the 2005. When i called the ford customer service hotline i was told ford was unaware and that they did not know this was a safety problem despite the numerous listings of people online saying they have reported the same kind of issues.
Heard a banging noise as i was driving that sounded from trunk. Nothing in trunk, rear passenger wheel well the shock tower had fallen through the wheel well which appeared to have rusted out.
Began to notice a rattling noise/clunking in right rear corner of vehicle. Took the vehicle to our mechanic who told us that the right rear wheel well was completely rusted through and the shocks were exposed. Only the right rear wheel was rusted. Informed by our mechanic that the vehicle was not safe to drive and we would need to have it towed to the body shop. When we contacted the body shop and said we had an issue with the under body on our ford escape he new immediately that it was the right rear wheel well because it was the 3rd ford escape with the exact same problem in less than 2 months. We were fortunate that we only had to wait 3 days for the part as we were told that the last 2 ford escape owners had to wait 6 weeks because the partwas on back order from ford. Looked online and there were hundreds of complaints for ford escape with exact issue (always only the right rear wheel well) from 2004 on. Obviously this is a recall issue that should be address by ford before someone is seriously injured or killed.
I was pulling out of a parking space with the wheel turned to the left & heard a loud clunk like something fell from underneath my car, like my car literally was falling apart. I got out to check and my tires were okay, and nothing was hanging or leaking fromthe car. So i drove to my office which is about a mile away. I went to make a left turn into my office complex and i heard the clunking again. I parked and went inside to call a mechanic. The mechanic across the street from my office took it for a test drive & said it sounds like my transmission was sticking for some reason. He called a transmission guy he knows not far from there & i was able to drive it there. He drove it & said it was clunking bad & it sounded like a transmission problem. He kept it over the weekend to look everything over. On monday afternoon he contacted me & said that the clunking was the wheel bearing hub assembly and once they fix that, that could still just be the first part of the problem. He was right.after test driving it again he heard another noise that i can't describe in words.he said that it was the transfer case & something about the transfer case controlling the 4-wheel drive which is all related to the transmission. At first i was going to let him order the generic parts, but after i did some research on the warranties for 2006 ford escapes i called him back and spoke to him about what i found about the power train and transmission modules under the emissions warranty being covered up to 80,000 miles. He said emissions has to do with pollution. So i just said order the ford parts instead in the event that i have to revisit this situation. Although i would've saved about $100 now i'm not willing to take that chance if something else happens & ford say they are not responsible because they are not ford genuine parts. My car is still in the shop because they had to order the parts and then they will be able to complete the replacement of the transfer case and parts.
I was driving home going about 45mph and all of a sudden i hear a loud noise coming from the left rear of the vehicle. Though it could have been the tire, so i pulled over to check and the shock is completely rusted and apart.
Vehicle got very loose and lost control due to rear strut mount rusting all the way apart and no control of rear suspension.
About a week ago i noticed a noise in the rear of my escape.after inspection the shock mount appears to have rusted out and completely separated from the vehicle creating a hole the size of my arm in right side passenger wheel well. After further research online this seems to be a common problem that ford claims doesn't exist. I bought my car from a used auto dealership and have not even owned it for a year yet.
My rear passenger wheel well is completely rusted out. This is the only one affected. The strut mount is lose and is going to fall off. I can no longer drive my vehicle. It is very unsafe for my son and i to drive and ride in. There has been numerous complaints and there needs to be a recall before someone is seriously injured or killed.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving 35 mph, the rear passenger shock mount fractured and caused the brake hose to rupture. The contact stated that all of the brake fluid leaked out of the hose. Preston ford in burton, ohio was made aware of the failure and stated that there were no recalls on the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 113,000.
There should be a recall on ford escape 2006 vehicles.we bought our vehicle used one year ago, 117k miles on it and the wheel wells/shock towers looked fine.after one winter the rear passenger wheel well is rusted through (there is literally a rust hole) and the driver is almost as bad.we had the vehicle inspected at a ford dealership prior to purchasing it a year ago - they didn't even point out any corrosion.meaning, within a year it corroded so bad it needed $1300 worth or repair.our local mechanic told us there was a recall on the issue, but searching online and asking our local ford dealerwe discovered there wasn't.this isn't the type of cosmetic rust of the body, but rust of the structural integrity of the vehicle.it is a design flaw that whoever engineered the body should be ashamed of.i can find recalls online for 2001 -2004 escapes for similar structural rust, so why isn't ford recalling 2006 escapes when the problem is still occurring?the ford dealer told us, keep the repair receipt in case ford issues a recall, then we could be reimbursed.this rust isn't just and eyesore, but a safety issue.
My daughter was alerted to a problem when loud banging noises started recently when driving under normal driving conditions.upon inspection by a mechanic, he discovered that the passenger side and driver side rear wheel wells body parts and shock absorber mounts have significant rust damage.our vehicle is well maintained according to the manufacture's schedule and as recommended by the ford dealership service department.i do not understand how we could not have been made aware of a potential issue before during previous tire replacements, shock replacements, and other services that would have had the opportunity to see the problem.the passenger side rear wheel well is so bad that the dealership service department indicated that it is not repairable and referred us to their body shop.the attached pictures show that the interior of the cabin is now exposed.i also have an audio recording of the noise inside the vehicle when driving under normal conditions.my daughter was also cautioned by the mechanic about an imminent failure of the suspension. This is a safety hazard that has been widely reported on the internet.there was a recall by ford for 2001-2004 for the same issue on the same model.i contacted ford motor company customer service line and they indicated there was no recall for our vehicle.based on our experience and the issues reported by others with the same problem for later model years, there should be a recall and action by ford to repair these later year models such as ours as well.
Loud banging sound for rear of car.on inspection the right rear wheel well had rusted through including the support for the rear shock absorber.the shock absorb punched all the way through the wheel well, and was unsupported, hitting the metal of the interior.
The right, rear wheel well and shock support is nearly entirely rusted out.the rust damage i've observed appears to be much more significant than otherwise would have occurred due to normal wear and tear.the left wheel well is not suffering from the same corrosion problem.a quick google search shows that this is a seemingly widespread problem impacting 2004-2006 ford escapes.i've checked with my local ford dealership, and contacted ford corporate, and have been told that there are no known issues.i do realize that i live in new england and that the vehicle is 8-years old.however, i take very good care of my vehicle, and the damage i'm seeing seems to be clearly above beyond what would be warranted from normal wear and tear.
Right rear quarter panel rusted threw the wall.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the accelerator pedal became stuck in open throttle and the contact was unable to depress pedal. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who stated that the failure was unknown but replaced the throttle. The failure recurred and vehicle was repaired a second time. The contact also stated that on another occasion while driving over a road bump, the vehicle made a loud noise. When the contact made a turn the vehicle would lean to the side more than normal. The vehicle was taken to dealer and the failure was determined to be the stabilizer links for the front driver and passenger sides. The vehicle was repaired by replacing the stabilizer links. The failure recurred on the front passenger side stabilizer link, which was replaced a second time. The manufacturer was made aware of both failures however no assistance was provided. The vin was unavailable. The current mileage was 110,000. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.
The rear passenger wheel well is completely rotted around the connection for the shock absorber.no body shop will repair as it is too costly and too much of a liability they claim.driving along and suddenly the car got loud in the back.shock absorber had come through the interior of the automobile. Car has rust on back "trunk" door and a on the edge of the wheel well exterior on the same side, but remaining parts of the car have very little or no rust.but when you look inside the wheel well you see all the rust around the shock absorber. Google search shows i am not alone with this issue - others report same issue with passenger side rear and people are considering sueing ford.2001-2004 escapes had a corrosion recall on the front suspension, but there is nothing for years 2005 and newer.this is should be looked at.
A few months ago i noticed a thumping noise when driving. The passenger side rear wheel well started to have the black coating flake off of the inside revealing rust. Since then my strut has broken off from my frame & the shock has completely broken. From the research i have been doing thousands of people have had the same problem. There needs to be a recall for this. My car is un-driveable & most likely so expensive to fix that i might as well buy a new car.
The right rear shock tower is rusting away and is about to break away from the frame i read online that ford recalled almost 400,00 vehicles with this problem, but i never received a notice. The car is not safe to drive.
Right rear wheel well totally rusted out, no repair shop will fix.loud knocking when driving, can not drive afraid wheel will fall off.
Escape wheel well rust caused strut to detatch from vehicle.i was driving down the highway when i heard loud thumping noises, i checked and didn't see anything that it might be so i took it to a mechanic who showed me the excessive wheel well rust that caused the strut to detatch from the body.he said it was not safe to drive and that it must be fixed by a body shop as he couldn't fix it. I got estimates from body shops as well as ford and they all said it would be around $4,000 to $5,000 this is no other rust on the vehicle other than the excessive passenger rear wheel well rust and is has only 130-140k miles on it.now i cannot drive it without risk of a major accident due to the problem so it is sitting in my garage.i have photos but am unable to upload them to this site at this time.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that a noise emitted from the rear passenger side wheel while driving. The mechanic inspected the wheel and found that the rear passenger's side wheel well was corroded with a hole. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure and current mileage was 70,000...updated 04-22-14 updated 04/24 /14
My right wheel well has rusted out completely and the inside compartment is now open to the outside. There is a terrible, constant rattling noise and a horrible clunking noise every time i go over a bump.
The lower control arm has separated from the subframe due to corrosion.this is the exact problem that led to a recall of 400,000 ford escapes (model years 2001-2004) just 3 years ago.
Right rear wheel housing completely gone.first indication of any issue was when shock no longer properly supports.rust and total de-lamination of metal housing supporting shock.fear of shock punching through - into cargo hold in the area of the jack storage.
The right wheel well has rusted out completely around the shock.i can see into the car from the outside. There is a loud rattle constantly and a horrible clunking noise every time i go over a bump.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 40 mph, the rear passenger side shock plate detached from the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the shock plate needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage and vin were unknown.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving at approximately 5 mph, there was a loud bump from the rear passenger side. The contact observed rust on the rear tire. The failure recurred continuously, causing the vehicle to become inoperable. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the shock absorber needed to be replaced.the failure mileage was 85,000. ...updated 02/03/16 ; updated 4/6/18 the consumer stated the vehicle was repaired.
On my 2006 ford escape i almost died on highway because the subframe on passenger side of the ford broke. Upon looking up information i noticed that their was a recall for ford escapes 00 _04 but that escape is the same frame and structure. I never owned a car that the frame was suppose to brake like that. I hope nobody ever gets hurt but this.problem should be addresses because that car is very popular.
Excessive wheel hub corrosion, shock freed and damaging interior and exterior wheel hub area. Not driving vehicle at this point, too dangerous. Advised by several mechanics to contact ford motor with complaint. Ford motor call center took information and hung up on me. Would not direct me to supervisor. No recall at this point for 2006, but many complaints in former years regarding the same issue. Very dangerous situation and may have caused a tragic accident. If agency would like pictures, please contact me.
Right rear shock mount broke loose and started to enter the passenger compartment.
There is excessive corrosion in the passenger side rear wheel well and the shock absorber has broken since there is nothing to connect to causing a safety issue. Research on the internet shows this is a common problem with this year and 2005. It was taken to the dealer and they and ford will do nothing stating the vehicle should be scrapped.
Rear wheel wells where the shock mounts is rusted through causing ride and control issues. I noticed clunking while driving caused by the rust and lack of shock stability. I talked to other owners and found this is a common issue.being that my vehicle is not rusty and is cared for regularly this is bad and i am no longer going to invest my money into it.this is a safety concern and i feel with as common as the issue seems it should be taken care of by ford as the shock being loose coming into the interior is another safety concern, and the wear and tear from the tire ride causes premature tire wear not to mention wear and snapping the break line causing the brakes to fail.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the rear passenger side shocks were corroded. Additionally, the contact mentioned the vehicle was burning oil excessively. The vehicle was taken to a mechanic however, the technician was unable to diagnose the failure. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 80,000 and the current mileage was 120,000. Updated 08/27/2014*lj updated 09/4/2014
The shock housing has completely separated from the body of the car due to rust. Internet searches have turned up hundreds of people who have the same issue with this model year. It poses a safety issue because the dismounted shock can cause handling issues as well as tear into the tire when driving.
- the contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving at 15 mph the contact heard a popping noise when she depressed the brakes and noticed that the brake lightilluminated. She had to use the parking brake to stop the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, whostated that the wiring harness should be replaced. The dealer changed the wiring harness.however, six months later the contact experienced the same problem. The dealer was inspecting the vehicle to determine the reason for the most recent failure. The current mileage was 16,900 miles. Consumer has included multiple invoices stating brake system went out. The dealer performed multi point inspection and performed the various tasks:reinstalled side front panel, replaced harness, alignment of front end and rear, replace upper strut bearing and bushing, bled brake system. Update *4/16trthe abs light and brake light illuminated.
The right wheel well of my 2006 ford escape (limited) is completely rusted out. I can no longer drive this vehicle because the shock is about to break through the interior of the vehicle. The rust has caused exhaust to pour into the vehicle. Before knowing about this, i took my vehicle to several different mechaincs because i could smell exhaust. They couldn't find anything. A canadian auto body person (i love on the border) told me that it was coming from the holes in the right wheel well and showed me the large hole where exhaust is leaking in. This is a serious safety issue that all escape owners (2006 at least) need to be made aware of!!! i can't take and attach photos at this time due to the weather but can provide them another time, upon request. I should note that i live in northern michigan and that i have taken meticulous care of this vehicle.
Complete rear shock tower failure......updated10/20/15
Wentchange the shocks and the whole bracket system had rusted out on the passenger side rear.they have recalled these from 2001-2004.it is fine on the drivers side but the passenger side it totally rusted thru it is going to cost 3000 to fix. I have only had this vehicle a year.it made a clunk noise twice so i took it in to the shop, i am driving two kids around i am a single mom suck crap.
The right rear fender wall has totally rusted out to the point the shock is not even attached to the frame. Internet search has shown this is happening on many many of these 2004-2006 ford escapes. We we're lucky to discover the defect before someone was hurt.
The right rear wheel well of my 2006 ford escape has rusted completely away, where you can see into the inside of the car from the outside. It is causing a constant rattling and a horrible clunking noise every time i go over a bump.checking online, i see that this has been a problem for some time now and the shock has completely separated from the vehicle. Ford has always been a company to stand behind their vehicles, so i imagine it will only be a matter of time before a recall is issued, but someone needs to do something about this now before there are fatalities involved.
While driving i heard a loud noise then shortly after heard something rubbing then very shortly after my left rear tire blew out.i stopped to look and it looks like the area where the rear strut attached to the body completely rusted away.the car is most likely not repairable.
I was traveling down the road at moderate speeds, i had a loud bang in the back and from that point on i had to slow down to 15. We brought it in to the mechanic and low and behold the wheel well has rusted out and the shock tower as well. The small shops won't do the work because of liability. And ford said 3000 if and when they get the part. The car is a 2006 and we shouldn't have problems to this magnitude.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated while driving approximately 35 mph on rough road surfaces, a loud banging noise emitted in the rear of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to a collision center, who informed her that the rear passenger's side wheel well was completely covered with rust. The rear passenger's wheel well and shock mount disengaged. The failure also caused damage to the rear interior floorboard. The vehicle was not repaired.the manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000.
Excessive rusting in right rear fender well , shock mount coming undone. Loud banging noise inside vehicle. Safety issue.
While driving my vehicle on a highway, i could here a loud clunking sound coming from the rear. After investigating, it was visibly noticeable that the shock tower on the rear passenger side rusted completely off the vehicle. This allowed the wheel to bounce freely and the shock to jam up into the wheel well repeatedly. The vehicle is unsafe to drive.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 50 mph, he heard a rattling noise. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for inspection where they stated that the subframe and the rear passenger's side strut had corroded. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure.the failure mileage was 92,000.
On march 12,2014i was driving to the post office when my car made a loud "thunk" and began to shake severely. Feeling unsafe and being a short distance from my home i immediately returned there.upon inspection i discovered that the right rear wheel well had rotted out and the shock had penetrated through the interior of the car behind the rear right passenger seat. The date of manufacture on the drivers door is 5/2005.
Front wheel bearings failing.called ford and they will not cover this under warranty.bearings should last over 100,000 miles.mine started to go bad at 58,000 (approx) miles.when bearings fail driver could lose front brakes and/or front wheels leading to a crash.i have over 35 years experience with automobiles and know what a failing wheel bearing sounds like.
I own a 2006 ford escape. My problem is i have had popping and squeaking noises in the front end since i purchased the vehicle. I had taken it to the dealership several times for the noises they would always make comments like it must only be when i'm driving that it makes the noise. Needless to say when i complained enough about the problems they checked the suv and replaced the wheel bearing at 5,000 miles, it also needed new swaybar links,at about 8,000 miles they told me they orderedthem. However weeks later they still had not received the parts and i then started have problems with my brakes, when i pushed the brake on the steering wheel would vibrate. Then at 13,000 miles i had to replace both rotors at my expense because the dealership refused to pay for them under warranty( funny isn't it you have a bumper to bumper warranty till 36,000 and it isn't covered ). Now it having 18,000 miles ihad to have the new rotors turned.the dealership never replaced the swaybar links. I thought if you had a a problem they could not fix it would fall under the lemon law in missouri, it is apparent they can not fix the problem. What can i do ? i havea 8 month old grandson in the vehicle everyday (well when it isn't in the shop for some reason) i do not feel safe driving with the front end problems it keeps having. I ampaying 25,000.00 dollars for a vehicle that is unsafenot only to my family but to others on the highway. Please advise me on a helpful solution. Thank you for taking the time to read and acknowledge my problems with my escape.
Failure of wheel bearing, left(driver) side front. Second time in less than 100k miles that the bearing is failing.possible design or manufacturing defect.when searching the web i came upon hundreds of consumer complaints of the same failure of model years 2001 to 2007.bearings should last over 150k miles. Sudden failure will result in loss of control and or loss of brakes.i bought a different brand of bearing and the same one failed.vehicle is driven on road.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving approximately 40 mph, an abnormal noise was heard from the rear passenger side of the vehicle. The contact pulled over and discovered that the shock retainer was fractured and separated from the vehicle. The vehicle was driven to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the shock retainer had excessive rust and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000.
Since i have had this ford escape 2006 i have it has been in the shop for brakes tire pressure light steering pumps broken and the most in two monthsi had two accidents because brakes will stop and then release. I keep up on the maintenance which requires brakes check my complaints and after the firstthey accident in march we asked ford to check brakes the said it was fine less than a month later another accident same thing brakes stop and release we took it back in and the master cylinder had been broken i have children i drive children and this could definitely have hurt us or someone else my car is nothing but trouble and dangerous actually the body shop said it was broken before. The dealers conveniently say i did not complain but all service checks my brake drums are check i complain of parking brake and excessive noise.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the stop safely now warning message displayed after driving the vehicle for approximately 30-45 minutes. The contact also stated that the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the battery pack fan kit and the traction auxiliary mode actuator needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired under nhtsa campaign number: 14v526000 (hybrid propulsion system), but the failure persisted. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 134,000.
A couple months ago, i bought a 2006 ford escape, but within a short time it started shutting down with no warning. I lost all power (steering and brakes) and had to pull the emergency brake to stop. Thank god i was near a parking lot and there was no cars coming.now, every time i drive it, the problem gets worse. When going up hills and at higher speeds, it spits and sputters and sometimes it will just shut down while driving! it has gotten progressively worse and now when i stop at a stop sign and start to pull out at an intersection it just shuts off. The car will start right back up but it is so dangerous when it just shuts off going down the road. I have put it in the garage twice, but both times they couldn't find anything wrong and there are no codes being thrown. I also took it to a ford dealer, but they could find nothing wrong.. But something needs to be done, its so dangerous and i'm afraid to drive the car.
The 2006 ford escape xlt car was well maintained and i am the only owner.the right wheel well shock tower is completely rusted out and is very dangerous to drive.the cost was estimated at over 1,000. Dollar to fix. There has been numerous others who have had the same experience and ford will not do anything about the safety issue.since i replaced the 2 rear shocks the right wheel well rusting clunking issue has gotten worse and is a very bad safety issue to drive.please make ford responsible for this common terrible safety issue.
I drove 7 miles to work.it was a little foggy/dewey out so i turned on my rear defrost.the temperature was in the low 60's, so cool, but not cold by any means.i parked my car and rolled the windows (all 4) down @ 3 inches.when i parked my car @ 8:00am it was fine.by 9:10am, i was informed that the back windshield of my car was "broken".when i went to check my car, the back windshield had completely blown out.there was barely any glass on the inside of the car as it had all blown out 3-4 feet into the parking lot.i did have the local police respond just in case and the officer shrugged and questioned/stated "freak accident".i've found numerous reports of this happening on these vehicles, yet no public awareness has been made.i am just glad that it didn't happen while i was driving like with some reports i've read.my insurance would cover a "recycled" rear windshield/wiper and i am terrified to use the rear defrost on the new one knowing that it came from the same year and make of vehicle for fear it will happen again.
Throttle cable broke. The gas pedal fell to the car floor and the car stopped all acceleration. I was on a city street under the speed limit, so i was able to pull to the side of the road and wait for a tow truck. My mechanic fixed it 9/23, as this is a dealer only part and i had to order it.
My husband and i bought a new 2006 ford escape.we splurged on rust proofing.we just learned that our wheel well has completed rusted out making the car unsafe to drive.ford refuses to help rectify this problem despite the fact that this is a serious safety issue and we could have a serious accident. I have found many other dissatisfied ford escape customers online who have had the same experience and have not received any help from ford.this is not right.yes, our car is getting on in years but it should not be disintegrating from rust especially when we bought a rusf proofing protection package.the manufacturer needs to stand by their product.
Transmission went out. Was driving to work on surface street truck started to lose speed and wouldnt accelerate. Turned car off then restarted put it into drive and it wouldn't move.
The alarm will go off randomly while in park and not running.has gone off at different times of the day.dealer replaced "smart junction box" but did not fix problem.returned to dealer after it happened again.thought it might be a latch problem but unless it happened while the vehicle was at dealership, they would not be able to be sure which latch and replacing all latches would be very expensive.
The right wheel well of my 2006 ford escape (limited) is completely rusted out. I can no longer drive this vehicle because the shock is about to break through the interior of the vehicle. The rust has caused exhaust to pour into the vehicle. Before knowing about this, i took my vehicle to several different mechaincs because i could smell exhaust. They couldn't find anything. A canadian auto body person (i love on the border) told me that it was coming from the holes in the right wheel well and showed me the large hole where exhaust is leaking in. This is a serious safety issue that all escape owners (2006 at least) need to be made aware of!!! i can't take and attach photos at this time due to the weather but can provide them another time, upon request. I should note that i live in northern michigan and that i have taken meticulous care of this vehicle.
Driving down the freeway and my vehicle shuts off without warning. There is a loud knocking and shuttering noise like my whole engine is going to drop onto the freeway. I get to the shoulder and put it in park. As i try to start the vehicle again the engine/motor starts shaking yet again with a loud knocking noise and wont turn over. I had to get my car towed. My children were extremely scared and being on the freeway this issue is very dangerous and has been complained about multiple times.
With the speed control engaged on the freeway, the vehicle periodically accelerates unexpectedly. I have to turn off the speed control for the acceleration to stop. This issues does not happen frequently but has occurred 3 separate times this past winter/spring.
Since buying suv trouble with rear windshield wiper, cruise control staying engaged, & turn over cold/hot start hesitation currently voluntary recalls. Ford says my suv was only affected by the windshield wiper.at 22,000 miles went to original dealer for oil change put windshield fluid ? wasn't in port or reservoir.bucking at 28,000 miles brought to other dealership during oil change.during visit told them about interior lights.suppose to check automatic transmission filter/fluid/service based on manual, but wasn't done. At other ford dealership had suv 35,830 bucking problem again and interior lighting on panels not working.was told those lights never worked or glowed? said bucking wasa suspension pin in the front passengers side, only one was changed despite 4 wheel drive vehicle. ( was towed back to dealership next day 4 bucking )ford mentioned needing new breaks soon that there was vibration and shimmy from the break pads that i was feeling?had tires done 38,177 miles & brakes 38,550 with independent mechanic non ford was told that all 4 suspension pins should have been changed simultaneously like my tires and that their is a class 1 leak from my differential/transmission-possibly just a gasket change 6-9 hours worth of labor.i contacted the ford customer service repair center i would have to pay for out of pocket despite having made note bringing in issues when vehicle was under the manufacturers warranty it is currently out. With the sensitivities to the current market felt it wasn't in my best interest to pay for the extended warranty.if ford closed who would do my work when they were suppose to do it during regular bumper to bumper full manufacturer warranty in the first place and didn't. Not to mention i still owe 2 more years worth of car note & insurance to pay off this vehicle. I don't have the money to pay for repairs that should have been covered by the manufacturer.
I have a 2006 ford escape that the accelerator pedal will periodically lock up.ford will not address the problem.i have read that people either clean or replace the throttle body but the problem resurfaces.it would seem to me to be a defect in that part.it has always happened with me when i am in motion.like you may take off to cross an intersection or make a right turn and it will get you just far enough to get in traffic and then the pedal freezes and you're stuck.i have become very fearful driving not knowing when it might happen.
At about 45,000 miles my gas pedal started locking up when i try to press it down.it appears that it happens more when it is cold or the car has been sitting.
Upon putting car into gear, the gas pedal would not cause the car to accelerate. Car had no propulsion. Important to note that the gas pedal had seemed to stick before this incident. Ford motor co. Refuses to cover the cost of fixing this problem, even though they have known about this issue for some time. This car was bought for my 17 yr old daughter. She did not happen to be driving at the time of the incident thankfully because she would not have known what to do in this circumstance.
Incidents of the accelerator sticking without allowing the driver to accelerate has been noted on multiple occasions. This has been an ongoing problem and is very dangerous due to the fact a driver could be trying to enter traffic, get partially into the lane then the accelerator sticks and you have cars coming toward you at 30-70 mph. I lived in fl when i first noticed this happening. Noticed a pattern: only does this when weather is at least below 60. Now i live in a northern state and this is even more of a danger due to the fact this could happen while there is ice on the road in the coming months.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 5 mph and exiting a residential driveway, the vehicle failed to accelerate. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnosis. The manufacturer was contacted but offered no assistance. Three years prior to the recent failure, the contact took the vehicle to the dealer because the accelerator pedal had become extremely difficult to depress. The dealer made repairs to the accelerator pedal at that time but the contact was unsure of the exact repairs. The vehicle was not further repaired. The failure mileage was unknown. The current mileage was approximately 95,025.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the accelerator pedal became stuck in open throttle and the contact was unable to depress pedal. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who stated that the failure was unknown but replaced the throttle. The failure recurred and vehicle was repaired a second time. The contact also stated that on another occasion while driving over a road bump, the vehicle made a loud noise. When the contact made a turn the vehicle would lean to the side more than normal. The vehicle was taken to dealer and the failure was determined to be the stabilizer links for the front driver and passenger sides. The vehicle was repaired by replacing the stabilizer links. The failure recurred on the front passenger side stabilizer link, which was replaced a second time. The manufacturer was made aware of both failures however no assistance was provided. The vin was unavailable. The current mileage was 110,000. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.
The gas pedal on our 2006 ford escape locks up at random times, causing an inability to press on the gas pedal. The vehicle becomes instantly inoperable. The only way to get the pedal to unlock, is to get to the side of the road and turn the vehicle off and on a few times. The consequences of such actions are obviously dangerous to say the list. We have taken the car to the ford dealer and they found nothing wrong. Please go on the web and you will see numerous same case scenarios. This is disaster waiting to happen. We have to think of this each time we drive this car. Help.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while attempting to accelerate, the accelerator pedal became stuck. The contact had to constantly depress the accelerator pedal in order for the vehicle to respond. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 150,000. The vin was unavailable.
After starting the vehicle it has to be warmer up for about 30 minutes or more, in order for the gas pedal to press down so the vehicle will move. The gas pedal will not move at all. It has to be warmed up in the summer months and well as the winter months in order for the vehicle to move. The gas pedal is so hard to press that it like trying to press your foot through abrick wall. Itdoes this even when at a stand still when trying to accelerator for any speed. It just will not move. This is dangerous for me and my family. Please help !!!
Accelerator was sticking in the up position. Took great force to free it from the up position to give the vehicle gas. As this vehicle has a manual transmission, it was a major safety concern. Dealer said they knew of other problems with the throttle body. Replaced the throttle body under warranty and the problem was resolved.
Car has been stalling periodically for the past month on city streets (mostly) and highway (without any warning signs).each time would bring to mechanic but no codes would show up.happened again yesterday, this time the engine light came on, code that showed up was p2112. Bringing to ford dealer tomorrow to fix throttle body.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.the contact stated that whenever she depresses the accelerator pedal, it sticks and does not move.the pedal is very difficult to depress when driving various speeds.when attempting to accelerate from a stop, she cannot move the vehicle.the dealer advised her to schedule an appointment with them and they would charge $100 to diagnose the failure.the failure mileage was 66,806.
Accelerator pedal stuck. Could not depress. Car idled perfectly fine but couldn't press the accelerator. After about 5 minutes it was fine again. This has happened on at least a dozen occasions.
Ford escape-accelerator pedal sticking; appears isolated to cold weather.initial extra pedal force is necessary to push through "sticking" in order to attain desired speeds.this causes more than desired acceleration, and speed.not safe; especially on snow, iced surfaces.
"takata recall" our 2006 ford escape has always revved up weird when pushing or holding the gas pedal,jerks and drives differnt,recently though it has died on us four times it used to have a p122 code or some code on it i will have to find receipt when auto place found it,but we were almost hit 2 times first times and luckily 3rd time i was parked infront of store with car on it died then tried dieing while trying to get it home,now i would not be sending this but i do see you have a recall for this problem!so i would like to know what can be done about this?please let me know thanks for your time.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while traveling approximately 75 mph, the accelerator pedal seized. The vehicle was not repaired or diagnosed. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure.updated 12/23/13*ljthe consumer stated the brake would work. However, the engine would idle at high speed. The consumer believed, the problem caused the transmission to fail. Updated 12/23/13
Driving along at various speeds, the gas pedal sticks in the up position.if you need to speed up the pedal wont move. It is locked in the idle position.this almost caused a major accident when i could not speed up to get out of the way of an 18 wheeler.it nearly ran over me.the pedal has stuck at least 15 times since i have owned the vehicle.dealer says nothing is wrong with this vehicle.i have checked online and found many people are having the same problem with the 2006 escape.if the pedal sticks at the wrong time, someone somewhere will be injured or killed.
Problems with gas pedal sticking/ locking up. While driving and sometimes when idle dash lights, a/c and radio turn on and off, then there was a clicking sound before the actual engine shuts off.
Accelerator sticks, would not go down.started sticking when starting engine and would continue until driven for a few miles.continued to get worse and would stick when pulling out from a side road to a busier road below a hill where oncoming traffic could be popping over hill and my vehicle would not move.would have to continue to stomp accelerator, finally would take off. Stuck several times when driving during snow storm, had to constantly stomp accelerator, would take off at a higher than safe speed and then i would have to use break which was not safe on snow covered road.stuck in middle of intersection.had to continue to stomp accelerator, finally moved before anyone struck my vehiclewas told by dealership that problem was due to cold weather but last time it stuck the weather was warm.dealership finally replaced throttle body at my expense of $400 with mileage at 89888..
My gas pedal began to stick back around the 1st of october 2010 when the weather began to cool.it happened every now and then, at that time.as the winter progressed the gas pedal would stick more often, until the car warmed.i called a local ford dealership to inquire if they had any recalls on the gas pedal sticking and i was told no.it has been very hot in texas so i have had little problems.this date 9-6-2011 was the first cool morning in a long time and immediately my pedal stuck as soon as i backed out of my driveway.i was stuck in the middle of the street and the pedal would not bulge.i got out of the car and tried to lift the pedal up,hoping to get it to work.i kept pushing on the pedal and i was finally able to move the car.when i stop at the red light i have to start pushing quickly so i won't get hit from behind.this is very scary and serious.after some research i found that other owners of the 2006 escape suffered with the same problems.i am hopeful i will make it home from work to try to get some help.ford needs to look more closely at this issue.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while parking at 5 mph, the vehicle suddenly accelerated and crashed into a wall. The air bags failed to deploy. The contact sustained bruises to the chest that did not require medical attention. A police report was not filed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the failure was unable to be determined. The vehicle was then taken to a dealer who stated that the failure might be related to the throttle body. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 75,000. The vin was not available.
2006 ford escape - gas pedal sticks and is hard to press down, especially when it's cold outside.noticed at approximately 55,000 miles.have noticed many similar complaints on the internet.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 35 mph, the accelerator pedal got stuck, causing the vehicle to decelerate in traffic. The contact took the vehicle to a dealer and a local mechanic. Neither could diagnose an issue with the vehicle. The contact stated the failure did not occur often. The failure mileage was 80,000. ..updated 11/14/12the consumer stated the pedal has gotten stuck going to 65-70mph as well. This happened a few times a week during the winter. It also happens when the car hasn't been in use for a while.the vehicle then loses power and the decelerates. Updated 11/19/2012
While driving, my throttle or gas pedal sticks. It will not depress. I have to turn the car off and back on again. Sometimes i have to let the car sit a few minutes before it will unstick. This is very dangerous trying to merge into traffic!!! this has happened several times, and usually when the weather is cold or the engine is cold. That is the only pattern i have been able to figure out.
My 2006 ford escape constantly and unexpectedly has a stuck gas pedal in the closed position.the cable and throttle body have been replaced several times at my expense and ford refuses to acknowledge the problem.my wife, daughter and i were nearly killed at a large intersection while trying to turn left.the car was stopped at a light with oncoming traffic approaching us in the opposite lanes.when a large gap appeared in the oncoming traffic, i tried to proceed and the gas pedal stuck as i turned. It would not depress and this left me without power and the rapidly approaching oncoming cars had to swerve so as to avoid "t-boning" our car.the other drivers stated that they did not anticipate our car suddenly failing to proceed as they approached us.they then assisted us in removing (pushing) the car from the roadway.i have complained to the local ford dealership numerous times but they refuse to provide me with a permanent repair.the pedal sticks very often and very unexpectedly.it doesn't stick open.it sticks in the fully closed position and will not depress no matter how much force is applied to the pedal.when it unsticks it happens as unexpectedly as it began. The pedal sticks only when the pedal is in the non-depressed position.it may happen when first trying to drive the car or after many hours of driving.it may happen (as in the previous example) after having stopped at a traffic stop.i have replaced the throttle body and cable several times, as suggested by every dealership in my area (of michigan).nothing has resolved the problem and i have gotten zero cooperation from ford corp.
I reported the same problem 13 days ago, but have had another acceleration problem again today. Again, vehicle would not decelerate when the gas pedal was released. Instead, car continued pulling at same speed and then began speeding up. I was on an exit ramp when the problem occurred. Luckily, i was able to use the brakes to fight against the pull of the car while maneuvering through traffic to avoid wrecking. Had to use brakes constantly until i could get the car to a lot to turn off the vehicle. When in park, motor was racing at 4000 rpm's. Turned off the car and tried three times to restart. Each time vehicle raced to 4000 rpms. This is exactly what happened on 12/15/2010 as reported here previously.
On feb 14th, 2013, on my way to work, my car radio went complete dead...then as i was approaching an intersection, my car 'surged' like it was going "on & off".i prayed to get to get out of harms way enough to pull my car over, as soon as i did, all the lights started flashing and there was a constant 'clicking sound'.i called a town truck and had my car towed to my car repair place.turns out i needed an new alternator.after spending $550 + to have it fixed, the following week, on tuesday, feb 19th, my car died.again, having it towed to my car repair again, it turns out that the electrical system needed replacing.i only have 67k on my car and after spending another $600 to fix, i am not a happy consumer!ford should reimburse me for these costs.now, my car is fixed and as much as i loved it, i am not confident driving it anymore. Unless ford reimburses me, i will never buy another escape again, nor will i tell everyone about how wonderful of a vehicle they are because they aren't and when you spend that much money on a car...well, when something costly happens like that, the vehicle should be replaced by ford with no cost to the consumer.an extra $1200 out of my pocket means my family has to go without food.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while attempting to accelerate, the vehicle failed to respondand once it engaged, the vehicle lunged forward violently. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 40,000 and the current mileage was 100,000.
Gas pedal stuck within 1/10 mile of travel on cold morning.first happened in january 2009.has happened twice in january 2011.car idled, but could not accelerate while traveling.coasted to stop in right lane.repeated pressing produced no response.after about 5 minutes in each instance pedal became operable.
I have a 2006 ford escape.the gas pedal is sticking all the time.it's not a sticking because it is stuck or needs lubed. It is a hard mechanical lock!no matter what you do you can not press down on the gas pedal.it's locked!you have to wait until it unlocks to do anything.this has been going on for a very long time.the other day it locked up on me as i was pulling out in traffic and was almost in an accident.it wouldn't move.i had to pull over on the side of the road and sit there until it decided to work again.my husband drives around with cruise control on so he doesn't get put in a position like this one even in town!someone is going to get killed- the driver and passengers of a car like this!ford recalled the same problem for 2004 and 2005 models but will not acknowledge the 2006 models.i shouldn't have to pay out money for a failure they are aware of.someone shouldn't be killed for this to be looked into and taken serious.if i could i would get another car but i would lose a lot of money doing that.ford needs to fix this and a recall needs to be demanded.if you search the internet people are complaining about this all over the place.not everyone knows the steps of action to take to be heard.we need the national highway traffic safety administration to step up and protect our drivers and our roads.this is really serious!there is no way of knowing when the car decides to do this.when you take it in and it doesn't do it, they say there is no problem.please help us!
When it gets below 40 degrees or so my gas pedal will stick in a closed position. You have to press very hard on the pedal for it to allow the car to move however there is a large thrust forward/backward due to opening the throttle so quickly. I have nearly hit 2 cars and almost been hit several times because the car will not go. I have spoke. With ford and they state that there is no recalls regarding the issue and that there isn't anything they can do to assist. I do know that there was a recall for the same issue on the 2001-2004 and 2007 model of the escape for the same issue. I have spoken with a few others who experience the same issue and there are several complaints regarding the same problem. This is a very dangerous hazard and could cost someone a life if the problem isn't corrected. It obviously has to be an issue with the model itself. It has never happened to me since i purchased the car this past spring from my mother, who also said she experienced the same problem.
My car gas pedal keeps sticking like there is rock under it. I almost wrecked tonite because of it!!!! it needs to be fixed and there are a lot of other people with the same issue.
Throttle body failure.it absolutely would not accelerate while pulling out into heavy traffic.it happened repeatedly last fall, then suddenly stopped in december.it has begun doing it again, this time deciding to act up in houston.there needs to be a recall for every year model for which even one incident has been reported as this is obviously a problem for these vehicles.
The gas pedal would get stuck when you were driving. Had to have it replaced. It cost four hundred dollars (i think). Was told there were no other issues like this. Its been a couple of years now. Saw recently there are other complaints for this issue (online). Thanks
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 65 mph, the vehicle suddenly accelerated. The accelerator pedal became stuck and was inoperable. In order to stop the vehicle, the gear was shifted into neutral and the emergency brake was engaged. The dealer was notified of the failure who advised the contact there were no recalls for the failure and offered no further assistance. The manufacturer was notified and a complaint was filed.the failure mileage was 100,081.
Dt*: the contact stated the vehicle grinds during start up if it sits for a couple of days.on 04-18-06 the vehicle began to sputter along with a delay in the accelerator pedal and the engine.the dealership admitted there were other vehicle's with the same year, make and model that has the problem.the dealer arranged an appointment for the vehicle to be inspected this week.updated 5/16/2006 - the door ajar light illuminated intermittently.the dealer lubed the door and applied weatherstripping.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape xls. The contact stated that while driving approximately 50 mph with the cruise control activated, the vehicle suddenly accelerated to higher speeds. The cruise control disengaged and the vehicle decelerated after being shifted into neutral. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and they advised her that the throttle body needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired once before and the failure had recurred. The manufacturer was notified and they offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 18,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that when depressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle would not accelerate and the pedal would intermittently become stuck in the idle position. The dealer and manufacturer were contacted and stated that there was no recall for the failure and would not provide any assistance.the vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 80,000.
Gas pedal sticks whenever temperature falls below freezing. Had issues since car was new in 2006, but this week issue is much worse.normally you can push hard on the gas pedal and get it to work.this week i have to wait for the car to warm up before i can drive, the gas pedal will not budge.i've read other complaints that this is a faulty throttle body and would like to know what ford plans to do about it.
First it stalled out while idling, then stalled out at stop light , then upon acceleration it stalled again. While driving it hesitated again , when i accelerated it started to go again, at stop light it stalled out. It always seems to start. I called the dealer where i purchased it and no active recalls for my vehicle, called another ford dealer and same answer. I mentioned consumer program 13n03 but told it was vehicle specific.
While driving the car the gas pedal sticks and it prevents me from accelerating first time it happened it stuck for atleast 3minutes the more i drive the worst it gets. Now it when the gas pedal sticks i have to pull over to the side in the middle of me driving and wait sometimes 5. Minutes at a time until the gas pedal unsticks so i can continue driving.
2006 ford escape. Gas pedal sticks. Accelerating - began at about 55k miles. Does not matter at what speed - can be 5 mph or 60 mph on the freeway.vehicle cannot accelerateto get out of the way of other vehicles.car usually needs to be turned off and sit for a period of time - 5 to 10 minutes, occasionally can hit on the gas pedal hard over and over to get it to re-engage.car at 85k miles now, still happens randomly with no notice.
Abs failure.the car brakes may at times lock-up without notice. Transmission failure:the transmission acts as if it's in neutral when in both forward gear or reverse. Transmission appears to be in good repair but this issue persist. This issue appears to occur from a beginning acceleration such as putting car in reverse and accelerating or putting car in drive and accelerating. This also happens when you may be stopped at a traffic light and attempt to proceed only to have the car act as if it's in neutral. This slipping in and out of gear issue seems to only happen from a take off speed.
Started to work one morning, have a manual trans after driving about 13 miles went to shift into 4th the accelerator would not move. After several attempts it finally broke free and i continued to work w/o incident. Since then it happens on a weekly basis different times of the day and diff temps no rhyme or reason. Researched and found many other with the same problem.this morning was different.i was only 4 miles from home and the accelerator was stuck again.i was only in 2nd gear,i pushed on the accelerator hard it broke loose but this time it got stuck while almost to the floor and the car took off spinning tires.there was not much i could do but put the clutch in shift to neutral.when i finally stopped the accelerator was stuck again so that i could not accelerate and now my clutch was gone.it is now not drivable.so very very dangerous.does there need to be a fatality for something to be done?
1) accelerator pedal sticks in an upward position cannot push down to accelerate as if it is frozen. After about a half hour pushing with my foot it will releases.when stopped the pedal stick again but will release but vehicle goes in a jerking motion because it is trying to stick again this happens upon being parked or driving in the city or country it happens whenever i need to accelerate.it has started doing this within the past month but as of 11/10/17 it was completely stuck in the up position and not budging2) electrical issues- when lights are on or anything inside the vehicle lightsaber are flickering and become slightly dim
While driving to work at about 43 miles per hour, i went to accelerate, but the gas pedal was stuck - like it froze up.i was able to pull into a parking lot, stopped the car, and slammed on the gas pedal a few times until it loosened up.this happened again a couple of days later, but i was able to stop at a red light, and again slammed on the gas pedal until it gave in.again this happened 2 days ago on my way to work, and had to pull off the street into a parking lot and slammed on the gas pedal until it loosened up.i looked on line for reviews on 2006 ford escapes, and saw that many, many other ford escape owners have had the same problem. I brought it yesterday morning to autonation ford in brooksville, florida and it was determined that the body asy - carburetor throttle, cable asy - throttle control needed to be replaced.the service manager stated that there were no recalls on this, and that this was common in ford escapes. He stated that this was a safety hazard and advised that i shouldn't be driving the car the way it was. The repairs are costing me over $600, and with all the complaints that i read about on line, i feel that this should be a ford recall, and customers should be reimbursed their costs to have this repaired.
When the outside ambient temperature is below 50 degrees f, the accelerator pedal is stuck in the up position/no throttle and inoperable. This issue only seems to occur in colder months of the year. When first trying to press the accelerator pedal down, it gives resistance as if it's completely stuck. Forcing more pressure onto the pedal will make the pedal depress slightly, however, the vehicle does not accelerate/move. The only way to get the vehicle to accelerate/move is to repeatedly tap or stomp on the pedal to "break it free". Tapping or stomping the pedal often produces a surge of acceleration and is dangerous in close traffic. This issue occurs after initially entering the vehicle and will continue to occur until the vehicle cabin temperature has been raised significantly using the vehicle's heater. The vehicle was out of manufacturer warranty due to mileage and i have not been able to have the vehicle looked at when this issue occurs due to it being weather/temperature related.
Gas pedal would not depress could not drive no matter how hard i pushed it.
My vehicle dies when the truck is warmed up and i put it in gear with my foot on the brake. It dies at stop lights and stop signs and in reverse. Another technician told me i would have to ride around with that problem because it was not throwing a code. After a week, i took it back to the ford dealer in cleveland, ms, and the service department manager told me it was probably the throttle body actuator. But, that it was on national back order. I left the car with the ford dealer, and they said they replaced the throttle valve at a cost of $900. The truck died on the wayhome from the dealer with the same problem.
My friend borrowed my 06 ford escape, which had not shown any mechanical issues. Shortly after getting on the interstate hwy, the gas pedal stuck to the floor and rapidly excellerated to 85 mph plus, without warning. It is a 6 lane hwy and was saturday. Putting the vehicle in neutral and using both the brake and the e brake, while trying to maneuver traffic to get to the shoulder, as a tractor trailer rig was barreling by unaware. This was an extremely dangerous situation. It is miraculous that no one was hurt. The brakes smoked and the fire department was called as a precaution. It had to be towed. Upon researching further, we discovered all the complaints about the throttle body problems. I am disappointed that there have been no warnings about this issue. Will someone have to die, before any actions are taken? it seems as though prevention would go further, rather than reacting to only the extremes of death and dismemberment. I am suggesting that ford take a proactive position here and notify ford escape owners.fix the issue!!!
I was driving my 2006 ford escape home from a friend's house with the cruise control on when i noticed a strange odor, like something was burning. I came to a stop behind another vehicle. I wasn't sure the smell was coming from my truck until i turned onto my street and noticed smoke. I grabbed some bags out of the truck and popped the hood. White smoke started pouring out. I went into the house and called 911. I went upstairs to let my aunt know to move her car and within a matter of 5-8 minutes, we heard a loud bang. I ran down the stairs to find the front of the truck burning. I started pulling things out of the truck until the flames quickly spread to the inside roof interior. The fire department arrived and put out the fire but the entire front of the truck was destroyed. The dashboard and steering wheel melted completely. I had very recently had the oil changed on my truck at the dealership, as i have done for the almost 2 years of ownership. Their multi-point inspection did not reflect that anything was wrong with the vehicle which would cause this kind of damage. The truck caught fire and was destroyed very quickly. After the fire i researched this truck type and found that ford has recalled several hundred thousand earlier models for fires. I am very concerned because this was a family vehicle. I or my child could have been injured or worse. Please investigate this further.
2006 ford escape xlt customer states that the seat covers had to be replaced, the car would not turn over and jerking while driving over 70 mph and rear wiper not working correctly**ccthe consumer stated sitting at a stop light, the vehicle shut off. The consumer was able to restart the vehicle, but the rest of the way to her destination, the vehicle was riding rough and jerking.the dealer diagnosed the problem as a inoperative torque converter.the consumer stated the vehicle would stall, drive roughly and jerked on several occasions. The vehicle also would shift hard and lurch forward while the cruise control was activated.
Vehicle's gas pedal constantly locks when driving no matter the climate.
This mostly happens in cooler weather, i had started experiencing my accelerator pedal sticking with the throttle closed.it was mainly a nuisance at first but it started to get to the point where i could put my entire weight on the pedal without it budging.at my soonest convenience and mostly because i had a warranty on the vehicle since it was still relatively new to me, i drove to the dealer i purchased it from and they told me it was the throttle body and that it had to do with the differing metals of the throttle body and the ambient temperature, so they ended up replacing it...it only cost me $100 at the time due to the warranty.here i am about three years later and i am experiencing the exact same problem.i don't have a warranty so i investigated the issue myself and discovered the throttle body is mostly plastic with an aluminum butterfly...i also discovered a tar-like residue on the edges of the butterfly.i proceeded to clean the assembly, then reinstalled it and there was a major improvement...my accelerator feels very different, in a very good way.i'm tired of large companies hiding issues like this.it gets old and causes good products to continue to get cheaper.my money could be put to better use than replacing a part that obviously needed more engineering attention before becoming production.
2006 ford escape 4door. Gas pedal sticking when car is cold, sometimes even after car is warmed up, will be at stop sign or light and gas pedal stuck to floor not coming up to accelerate. My sister had same problem with her 2006 ford focus.
When i accelerate from a stop, and need to hit the brake shortly thereafter, the car slows, but then "bolts forward" and it requires me to put on the brakes much harder than i would for the speed i am going, in order to avoid colliding with someone in front of me.this has been happening now for years, and when i take it to the repair shop, they can find nothing wrong.i have been putting up with it, because i had no alternative, but then i read that the ford freestyles, 2005-2007 are under investigation for what sounds like is exactly the same problem i have been having.so i am filing a complaint because they may be related.
On this particular incident i had let my car warm up since it was winter i pulled out of my driveway my car did fine but when i came to stop sign to go out of my neighborhood my pedal moved just enough to get me onto highway that was at the bottom of a hill.luckily there was are car coming so i could coast of the side of the road.it felt like someone had put a brick under the gas pedal.this was the worse case but, it has happened numerous times. I can't remember the exact mileage and date.
The accelerator on my 2006 ford escape has been sticking on numerous occasions. It feels like it locks in position and i cannot depress it. The first incident happened when i backed out of a parking spot. It worked fine in reverse, but when i switched gears it would not go forward. When i finally got it to work, i traveled about twenty five feet and then it locked up again. You never know when the accelerator is going to stick. This can prove to be very dangerousmy son called the dealership regarding the problem, but they said my car is no longer under warranty. It appears to be an expensive fix, and i've read about many, many people who are suffering with the same defects. It seems it's been an ongoing thing since 2001. My husband is currently experiencing the same accelerator problems with his 2005 ford escape. We've currently filed a complaint regarding that vehicle also.
I was driving at approximately 40 mph ( 40-65 mph intervals between highways) for about 20 minutes when all of a sudden my car is loosing power, so i stepped on the gasoline pedal a little more to keep the speed.the sad part is that there wasn't any lightthat came on to tellor warn me that something is seriously wrongand that my car needed to be checked. I drove a total of one hour that day at 40-65 mph intervals. When i started the car the next day, after about 3 minutes of the engine running, it started making this really loud noise and my car will not go faster than 2 mph.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact was driving 45 mph when the accelerator pedal failed to release and the vehicle was unable to increase acceleration. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was not notified. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 170,000. The vin was unknown.
During the cold months, the gas pedal will not depress.normally after the car is warm, it will loosen up to be safely driven.however, this morning, 01/04/12, i was forced to let the car roll into a parking lot at a very busy intersection.i sat there for several minutes letting the car get even warmer but still had to mash the gas pedal several times before it would move.luckily i was still very close to home and once i was out of the parking lot, i was able to let it roll the rest of the way home.after much research today i have learned this is a common problem with this vehicle and wish ford would do something to fix it before someone is hurt.for now we will fix it at home but as i understand it, the problem will only repeat itself.
My 2006 ford escape gas pedal is sticking down when temperature outside is very cold.i could not accelerate.very dangerous.
I was driving with my cruise control on.i tapped my brakes to disengage my cruise control and they locked long enough to send me into a fishtail. I over-corrected to come out of the fishtail and the escape started rolling.the airbags never deployed even though the escape rolled six times and was totaled while still under factory warranty.my daughter received some minor scratches on her hands. I dislocated my left thumb, broke my left shoulder in four places, snapped my left femur in half, shattered the bottom third of my left tibia, and had a hairline fracture to my right tibia just below the knee.i was also thirty-five weeks pregnant and the baby died do to trauma from the crash. The accident occurred october 7, 2008 and i am still in the hospital as i am writing this complaint on january 4, 2009.ford refuses to come look at the escape to figure out why the airbags never deployed.
The accelerator pedal sticks and will not move until after several tries.this has only happened three or four times, but it is scary when it does.
While traveling between 25 and 30 mph, the accelerator became stuck.i was unable to depress it further and it did not release.after 3 or 4 attempts the accelerator freed up.it then worked fine the remainder of the day.this occurred five times sporadically during the first half of 2012.this behavior returned april 2013.the accelerator stuck and freed up 3 or 4 times in a row during a morning commute for several days.the ford dealer replaced the throttle body (5l8z*9e926*a body asy) and gasket (4l5z*9e936*aa) total cost with labor $474.
I was driving approximately 45-50 mph & could no longer accelerate. Gas pedal was stuck. I realized i was able to release it by stepping on brakes or hitting the gas pedal really hard. This was under warranty in oct 2009 & the throttle body was replaced (supposedly) then again in nov 2011 i had to have it replaced but it was not under warranty & had to pay for it. It was icy out & it's pretty dangerous to slam on your brakes to release the gas pedal. Luckily there were no cars behind me.i wrote a letter to ford but they would not refund me nor was there a recall. I just had the same problem july 2014 & the dealer (supposedly) cleaned the throttle body but charged me & i called ford but again they said there's no recall. I also spent 7k in feb 2013 for a new engine.....beginning to wonder if that was a wise decision.
My gas pedal sticks while trying to accelerate when it is cold outside. When i try to press on the gas, the pedal will not budge unless i press extremely hard. This problem will last until the car warms up. This is extremely problematic in the snow!
Complaint of not being able to start the car in very cold weather/ gas pedal sticks intermittently although frequency of condition increases as temperatures decrease < 25f. Ford dealer diagnoses issue as a failed air bypass valve (part number: 3s6z-9f715-aa), replaced valve. Condition not cleared. Engine pedal sticks, engine rpm increases without driver input. Manual transmission only reason that driver was able to maintain control (jockeying clutch pedal to limit engine rpm). Throttle body was removed, cleaned and reinstalled. Condition not cleared. Suspect failed throttle body.
While driving to work at about 43 miles per hour, i went to accelerate, but the gas pedal was stuck - like it froze up.i was able to pull into a parking lot, stopped the car, and slammed on the gas pedal a few times until it loosened up.this happened again a couple of days later, but i was able to stop at a red light, and again slammed on the gas pedal until it gave in.again this happened 2 days ago on my way to work, and had to pull off the street into a parking lot and slammed on the gas pedal until it loosened up.i looked on line for reviews on 2006 ford escapes, and saw that many, many other ford escape owners have had the same problem. I brought it yesterday morning to autonation ford in brooksville, florida and it was determined that the body asy - carburetor throttle, cable asy - throttle control needed to be replaced.the service manager stated that there were no recalls on this, and that this was common in ford escapes. He stated that this was a safety hazard and advised that i shouldn't be driving the car the way it was. The repairs are costing me over $600, and with all the complaints that i read about on line, i feel that this should be a ford recall, and customers should be reimbursed their costs to have this repaired.
Driving on the interstate, the vehicle throttle stuck at about 75 to 80 mph. The vehicle held this speed on its own for about 5 miles. I pulled on to the shoulder and had to stand on brakes to stop vehicle. With brakes on, the vehicle was still trying to accelerate. I put escape in park and turned off auto. When i did, it lurched forward. After waiting a few minutes, i restarted car while in park with brakes on hard. The car lurched forward again and immediately after turning ignition jumped up to 4000 rpm. Turned off car and had towed to dealership. After the looked at the car, they said they could not "verify my claim"; therefore, they could not do anything. I was charged $100 for a service call and they did nothing. In the past, my gas pedal has also stuck and had to be mashed hard to get the car to run like many other complaints i've seen here for the same make and model. I had the throttle cleaned and it stopped, but it was very dangerous and almost caused me to get rear ended many times. Today's issue with the car stuck going 80 mph was much much worse. Looks like many people are asking for a recall that has not happened yet!
Throttle body continuously sticks when accelerating causing vehicle to not move in traffic or when driving extremely dangerous when you try to make a turn and vehicles accelerator gets stuck causing an accident
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 35 mph down hill, the vehicle would not accelerate. The contact stated the accelerator pedal became stuck. The contact pulled over to the side of the road and continued to push on the accelerator to release the pedal. The pedal was released but the failure soon recurred. The contact took the vehicle to a dealer, whostated that the throttle body failed and caused the accelerator pedal to stick. The dealer stated the throttle body needed to be replaced. The contact did not have the throttle replaced. The failure mileage was 156,884.
The gas pedal gets stuck in a locked up position. It is locked up and does not allow for acceleration. This has happened multiple times when pulling onto a street, many times almost causing serious accidents due to not being able to get to speed or even out of the way of traffic. I originally thought it was an issue with just my vehicle however after researching the internet i see that it is a very common problem and even after the suggested fix people are still having the same problem. I sure would hate for someone to be injured or god forbid killed because of this.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving at any speed, the brake pedal failed and caused the vehicle to accelerate unintentionally. The abs and brake lights illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to both the dealer and an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that there was no issue with the vehicle, yet the failure progressed. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 83,800.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the accelerator pedal would become stuck when depressed, causing the vehicle to stop accelerating.the contact stated that the intermittent failure was most prominent when driving in the colder weather. The contact resolved the failure temporarily by continuously pumping the accelerator pedal until it would release. The vehicle was not taken to a repair shop or to the dealer for inspection or repairs. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue however no further assistance was provided to the contact. The current mileage was 123,000. The failure mileage was 200. Updated 9/19/12 the consumer stated the "sticky pedal" issue occurred a few dozen times when operating the vehicle at about 35mph. The failure mostly occurred in coolweather. It caused the vehicle to stop in the middle of the road for 5-10 mins at a time. Updated 09/20/2012
My 2006 ford escape gas pedal got stuck in my neighborhood 9 times in one day.this has happened numerous times but it is usually when it's cold.this is the first time it has happened was in the summer.this indicates to me that situation is getting worse. There is no warning.one time i was leaving my neighborhood onto highway when the gas pedal pressed only enough to get me into highway at the bottom of a hill.luckily,i was able to coast to the side of rode.there are others having the same problem and it needs to be addressed before someone is killed.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact was accelerating 20 mph from a complete stop when the accelerator pedal became stuck in the open throttle position. The contact proceeded to drive up an incline to determine if the pedal would free itself but it did not. He was able to release the accelerator pedal by constantly depressing with abrupt force. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnosis but was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 54,574. Updated 03/16/11
I own a 2002 ford escape. In 2006 it caught on fire after being parked for 18 hours. Ford told me to contact the main office in detroit. I did. They had me contact the dealer in which i purchased both my escapes. The fire was caused by a faulty abs. West-herr ford of hamburg n. Y. Came and towed my escape to their collision shop. They called me up and said they misplaced my keys, so i gave them my spare set. Days turned to weeks,weeks turned to months. They finally said that my insurance should pay for it. My insurance blamed ford. Ford said that i could pick my truck up but if i did it would be out of their hands, so of course i did not pick it up. Finally 1 year later ford covered the faulty part and "fixed" my truck. I have brought it back 4 to 5 times for problems. While my truck sat at their collision shop for a year, my warranty ran out. I lost a whole year. Now they say we can fix it for an "at cost" price. They called me in to an executive meeting and tried to say they can give me a deal on a new truck. My truck according to them needs $700.00 to be fixed and inspected, but their just trying to sell me a new vehicle. They claim responsibility but they don't want to fix it. I'm not even asking for the year warranty that i lost, i'm just asking to have my truck put back into the condition it was in before their faulty part caused the fire. It hasn't been the same since. I am not rich. My wife and i have two children under the age of three, and i will not stand by and be taken by a billion dollar company. I will do whatever i am legally able to do. I was given a voice and you can bet ill use it. This will not go away until they fix it and make it right. You should have been at the meeting to hear the smoke they tried to blow, it was like they were the victims. Can you please advise me on my rights. Thank you. Leonard j. Hill --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
While driving, i went to accelerate, but the gas pedal was stuck in the idle position - like it froze up.i stepped on the gas pedal a few times until it loosened up. This has happened multiple times in the past few years about once every 2 months and typically on colder days less than 32 degrees f.after a throttle body cleanout by a licensed mechanic, it got worse.i looked on line for reviews on 2006 ford escapes, and saw that many, many other ford escape owners have had the same problem.there are currently no recalls on the throttle body, but this is the common problem.
Gas pedal sticks when cold. The gas pedal will lock up and not unlock.
The gas pedal sticks and could not be pushed down unless you slammed on it.this occurred several times, and eventually stuck completely.the ford dealership in lynchburg, va, replaced the throttle body.now, two years later, the same problem has occurred.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated while driving 50 mph with the accelerator pedal engaged, itremained stuck in the upright position when she attempted to apply the brakes. After several attempts the contact was able to fully depress the pedal. The failure occurred without warning and intermittently. The vehicle was taken to a repair shop where the mechanic was unable to determine the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The current mileage was 104,000. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.
When attempting to press down on accelerator, it sticks/hangs and will not press down.has done this repeatedly; most noticeably when the weather is cold.
Gas pedal sticks, i purchased this car one year ago. It has consistently had a problem with sticking since i purchased it.
When going down a hill with cruise control on and the car drifts above the set speed the cruise suddenly gives the car a sudden burst of speed. It has done this many times.
Accelerator pedal sticks annoyingly at slow speed part throttle and when starting out. Appears related to very cold temperatures. Requires tapping the pedal sharply with your foot to overcome the resistance without over-accelerating the vehicle. Problem disappears after engine has warmed up.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the accelerator pedal would become stuck while driving 35 mph and above. The vehicle was merged to the shoulders and the contact had to use their hand to pull up the accelerator pedal, causing it to exhibit an abnormal popping sound. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who stated they were unable to find a failure. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 97,000.
I have a 2006 ford escape that has the gas pedal sticking all the time and it's going to kill my family or someone else's if we can't figure out what is wrong.i see that ford recalled the same problem for 2004 and 2005 models but will not acknowledge the 2006 models.it started when i bought it sometime in 2006 and is still have problems.
I am buying a 2006 ford escape. The gas pedal is locking up when trying to accelerate from a stop. This seems to be happening when the vehicle is first driven in the morning or after it has sit for awhile then driving again. This has become an everyday occurrence. I have had the incident of the gas pedal sticking causing the vehicle to accelerate on its own while trying to stop.
I have a 2006 ford escape.the gas pedal is sticking all the time.it's not a sticking because it is stuck or needs lubed. It is a hard mechanical lock!no matter what you do you can not press down on the gas pedal.it's locked!you have to wait until it unlocks to do anything.this has been going on for a very long time.the other day it locked up on me as i was pulling out in traffic and was almost in an accident.it wouldn't move.i had to pull over on the side of the road and sit there until it decided to work again.my husband drives around with cruise control on so he doesn't get put in a position like this one even in town!someone is going to get killed- the driver and passengers of a car like this!ford recalled the same problem for 2004 and 2005 models but will not acknowledge the 2006 models.i shouldn't have to pay out money for a failure they are aware of.someone shouldn't be killed for this to be looked into and taken serious.if i could i would get another car but i would lose a lot of money doing that.ford needs to fix this and a recall needs to be demanded.if you search the internet people are complaining about this all over the place.not everyone knows the steps of action to take to be heard.we need the national highway traffic safety administration to step up and protect our drivers and our roads.this is really serious!there is no way of knowing when the car decides to do this.when you take it in and it doesn't do it, they say there is no problem.please help us!
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving 45 mph, the contact felt the vehicle accelerate on its own.she removed her foot from the accelerator pedal, but the vehicle continued to accelerate.she made sure that the cruise control was deactivated by pressing the off button.the contact had to stand on the brake pedal in order to bring the vehicle to a complete stop.the contact inspected the vehicle.the vehicle was towed to the dealer who suggested that the format could be stuck.they found that this was not the cause of failure.the vehicle was restarted and the engine began to rev.the dealer shut off the engine and replaced the throttle, however, they were unable to diagnose the cause of failure.the contact is aware of the recall for the ford escape in 2005 for the same failure.the current mileage is 16,300 and failure mileage was 16,197.the consumer stated strongly urges a recall for this specific vehicle. The consumer further stated had 3 passengers in the vehicle and this was an extremely dangerous incident. Updated 08/29/07
Gas pedal locks up while driving on freeway.when i let up pressure on the gas pedal to let a car merge in and then try to resume speed, the gas pedal locks and won't go down.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The accelerator pedal was stuck in the up position and would not move downward unless the engine was warm. If the temperature was cold the accelerator pedal would not loosen up enough to drive the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to a local mechanic who cleaned a spring in the accelerator pedal and informed her to warm the vehicle before driving. The dealer was not notified. The manufacturer was not notified. Vin was unavailable. The failure mileage was 70,000.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 40 mph, the rear windshield detached from the vehicle. The vehicle was stopped and the contact noticed that the hinges for the windshield were broken. The vehicle was not taken to have the failure diagnosed. The contact repaired the vehicle himself. The contact also stated that while driving 40 mph in snowy conditions, he applied to brakes and the anti lock brake warning light illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not taken to have the failure diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 45,000.
2006 ford escape rear window glass exploded for no reason.
I pulled my 2006 ford escape into my garage, turned off the engine, got out and shut my door when the rear window just exploded/shattered.i had my 3 year old and 7 month old (who was rear facing)in the car with me.
The contact owns 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving 15 mph, the rear window suddenly blew out. She stated that the window exploded into the vehicle and out. The vehicle was taken into the dealer who stated that the hinges broke which caused the window to shatter. The vehicle was repaired. The failure and current mileages were 32,000.
Driving on highway @ 60mph, 30 degrees outside, rear window defrost on, rear window exploded.
The windshield washer failed to operate properly. The rear window washer was operating properly. The vehicle was being driven on an expressway in inclement weather. Therefore the front windshield visibility was greatly impaired. I researched the internet, and found reports of the washer fluid line becoming disconnected near the windshield washer pump. The on line reports said that this was a common problem, told where the fault was and that the right side inner fender had to be removed to fix the problem. I found the faulty connection, and added plastic wire wraps to secure four connections in the area from coming loose again.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape.while driving 55 mph, the contact heard a loud noise.immediately following, the rearview mirror shattered into pieces.the vehicle was taken to the dealer and they estimated that it would cost $700 to replace the rearview glass.the rear passenger had glass stuck in his skin and the contact received a minor cut.the failure and current mileages were 99,000.
I have a 2006 ford escape and i was parked in the parking lot at my work and came out after i started my remote starter inside to find my cars rear window blown out. My husband had turned on my rear defrost that morning. It has never been on before, which i am sure is the cause behind it. I came home and called police. My rear glass window and the arms for it are ruined. I had to pay out of pocket for them to be replaced. Then i googled it and found the ford forum and heard everyone else's incidents and itsounded quite familiar.i am happy that this did not happen when i was going down the road, i have a seven year old that sits in a booster seat and if it hurt him in any way i would feel sorry for ford cause i would be their worst nightmare. Or where i was parked at my work (nursing home) that is where the residents go out for a cigarette so if it exploded in their face. That would have been a law suit for sure, not to mention what could have happened to them.
Rear window exploded proceeding at green light, in traffic, at 10 mph. Defrosters and wipers were on due to light rain. Loud bang and glass filled the vehicle. Stopped vehicle to investigate. No foreign objects found to rule out foul play. No other damage to vehicle.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that the windshield wipers were being utilized during rainy weather when they suddenly became inoperable.the contact took the vehicle to a mechanic for inspection where they advised the contact that the motor needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer was notified and stated that the vehicle was not included in any recall. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 76,000.
Driving down the freeway and the back passenger window shattered completely. No other cars were around me and the car had been warmed up for quite a while and there was no way someone could have shot or thrown something to have reached me as well as going 70mph. Also there was no evidence of a bullet or rock.
Rear window exploded outward onto the driveway.
I drove 7 miles to work.it was a little foggy/dewey out so i turned on my rear defrost.the temperature was in the low 60's, so cool, but not cold by any means.i parked my car and rolled the windows (all 4) down @ 3 inches.when i parked my car @ 8:00am it was fine.by 9:10am, i was informed that the back windshield of my car was "broken".when i went to check my car, the back windshield had completely blown out.there was barely any glass on the inside of the car as it had all blown out 3-4 feet into the parking lot.i did have the local police respond just in case and the officer shrugged and questioned/stated "freak accident".i've found numerous reports of this happening on these vehicles, yet no public awareness has been made.i am just glad that it didn't happen while i was driving like with some reports i've read.my insurance would cover a "recycled" rear windshield/wiper and i am terrified to use the rear defrost on the new one knowing that it came from the same year and make of vehicle for fear it will happen again.
My car was parked in the drive way, no one was in or around it. I was looking out the front window watching it snow outside when i saw the rear window glass explode and glass flew all over the drive way. The broken glass was very easy to see because of the fresh snow on the drive way. Once again no one was near or in the car.
2006 ford escape xlt - like many others, my rear window shattered for no reason. Had glass/rear wiper replaced but was then blowing fuses. So now have to have the rear wiper motor replaced on top of the glass. I have read several complaints of same issue but still no recall.
The vehicle is a 2006 ford escape hybrid.while driving on a one-lane road (off ramp of hwy 101), the driver's side window shattered suddenly. No foreign objects appeared to have struck the window. The shattering of glass resulted in minor injuries to the driver and some damage to the interior of the vehicle.ford customer service was contacted and ford refused to take responsibility for the incident. Nothing was done by ford to correct the failure.
I drove my car from my home, to work that morning.it was a little chilly so i turned on my rear defrost so i could see out the back window.i drove my normal commute, about 7 minutes to work, parked my car, and went inside. Within 20 minutes i heard a loud bang, and noticed that my back window was blown out and exploded all over the parking lot.i had to call my insurance and file a claim to have the window replaced.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. While driving the rear window had suddenly shattered without warning. The vehicle has not been diagnosed by the dealership. The current and failure mileages were 83900.updated 1/14/10 updated 01/15/10.
2006 ford escape xlt customer states that the seat covers had to be replaced, the car would not turn over and jerking while driving over 70 mph and rear wiper not working correctly**ccthe consumer stated sitting at a stop light, the vehicle shut off. The consumer was able to restart the vehicle, but the rest of the way to her destination, the vehicle was riding rough and jerking.the dealer diagnosed the problem as a inoperative torque converter.the consumer stated the vehicle would stall, drive roughly and jerked on several occasions. The vehicle also would shift hard and lurch forward while the cruise control was activated.
Rear window "explodes" for no apparent reason. Vehicle was parked, no one inside - rear defroster had been on prior to shutting the vehicle off.
Driving on highway @ 60mph, 30 degrees outside, rear window defrost on, rear window exploded.
Tl - the contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that both rear wheel wells were completely corroded. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. The technician verified the failure and stated that both wheel wells needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 156,000. Rk
My back wheel well housing has rusted away on my escape 2006 i have been waiting two months for ford to send the part they raised the price from 160 dollars to 707 dollars in those two months how can they do that when the part was faulty to begin with why is the government not protected the consumer from this type of fraud from ford.
On my 2006 ford escape i almost died on highway because the subframe on passenger side of the ford broke. Upon looking up information i noticed that their was a recall for ford escapes 00 _04 but that escape is the same frame and structure. I never owned a car that the frame was suppose to brake like that. I hope nobody ever gets hurt but this.problem should be addresses because that car is very popular.
The right rear wheel well of my 2006 ford escape has rusted completely away, where you can see into the inside of the car from the outside. It is causing a constant rattling and a horrible clunking noise every time i go over a bump.checking online, i see that this has been a problem for some time now and the shock has completely separated from the vehicle. Ford has always been a company to stand behind their vehicles, so i imagine it will only be a matter of time before a recall is issued, but someone needs to do something about this now before there are fatalities involved.
Right rear wheel well totally rusted out, no repair shop will fix.loud knocking when driving, can not drive afraid wheel will fall off.
When driving i started noticing a loud banging sound starting when driving over small bumps in the road. In taking the vehicle to the local ford dealer repair shop for an oil change we had them check out the sound that i heard. They pointed out the right, passenger side rear wheel well. At this time we were told the repair was not an immediate repair that was needed but would need to be repaired. We planned to wait until the local roads were repaired from the pot holes developed through winter. A month and a half later, on march 20, 2015 the sound had become extremely worse and i feared for my safety. We took it to a repair shop and they stated the vehicle was no longer safe to drive. The right side rear wheel well had rusted through and the suspension is barely attached to the vehicle. In researching online this is a prevalent problem through several year models not just the 2005. When i called the ford customer service hotline i was told ford was unaware and that they did not know this was a safety problem despite the numerous listings of people online saying they have reported the same kind of issues.
The right wheel well has rusted out completely around the shock.i can see into the car from the outside. There is a loud rattle constantly and a horrible clunking noise every time i go over a bump.
The contact owns a 2006 ford escape. The contact stated that while driving approximately 35 mph, a loud noise was heard from the rear of the vehicle. The contact discovered a hole in the rear passenger wheel well. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the wheel well was corroded and caused the shock absorber to separate from the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 107,000.
Excessive wheel hub corrosion, shock freed and damaging interior and exterior wheel hub area. Not driving vehicle at this point, too dangerous. Advised by several mechanics to contact ford motor with complaint. Ford motor call center took information and hung up on me. Would not direct me to supervisor. No recall at this point for 2006, but many complaints in former years regarding the same issue. Very dangerous situation and may have caused a tragic accident. If agency would like pictures, please contact me.
While driving i heard a loud noise then shortly after heard something rubbing then very shortly after my left rear tire blew out.i stopped to look and it looks like the area where the rear strut attached to the body completely rusted away.the car is most likely not repairable.
My right wheel well has rusted out completely and the inside compartment is now open to the outside. There is a terrible, constant rattling noise and a horrible clunking noise every time i go over a bump.
I own a 2006 ford escape xlt . I am having a problem with the rims, not the tires. It seems that on every single rim, the paint on the rim is bubbling up. All 4 rims have bubbling all in the same exact spots.the paint bubbling is forming in the center of the rim, right around the ford center cap. Under the bubbling, it appears that rust is forming. This is a 2006 ford escape with only 46,000 miles on it. It is only 3 yrs old. I have no idea if it is due to the ny weather. I have contacted my ford dealership. My escape is still under warranty. They even took a look at the rims and have no idea why the paint isbubbling on all rims , all in the same spot. There has not been any recalls on the rims. Therefore, i would have to purchase new rims for my 2006 ford escape, which will cost thousands of dollars.
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