We found the following complaints for DODGE CALIBER (2010)
Read complaints for DODGE CALIBER (2010)
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated while driving 30 mph a vehicle crashed into the front drivers side of the vehicle breaking the front axle. When the crash occurred the air bags did not deploy. The driver was injured. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who offered no explanation as to why the air bags did not deploy. The vehicle was not repaired. The mileage was unknown.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts, air bags). The part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Updated 06/13/17*ljthe consumer stated the vehicle was due to be repaired on 6/1/17. Updated 6/23/17
Occupant restraint controller recall... The fact that this is not resolved is unacceptable. If they are unwilling to repair, i would expect a full refund for the car.
The contact rented a 2010 dodge caliber from a local vehicle rental company. While driving at speeds of 50 mph, the vehicle crashed and the air bags did not deploy upon impact. There were three reported injuries and both the police and medical units arrived on scene. A police report was filed accordingly. The vehicle was towed to the vehicle rental company. The current and failure mileages were 3,000.updated 08/12/10 updated 08/18/10
I was traveling at approximately 40 mph when i lost consciousness due to adverse reaction to a prescribed medication. Approached retro-style pickup truck stopped at red light & because of being unconscious didn't apply brakes to slow down & stop. Frontal crash into rear end of stopped vehicle. Airbags didn't deploy nor did seatbelt engage to prevent me from being thrust forward face first into steering wheel. Incurred significant damage to front teeth & neck/back strain. Was informed by chrysler corp. That airbag sensors are positioned too low for deployment. Also informed because i did not apply brakes this was cause for both seat belt not engaging to prevent forward thrust into steering wheel and deployment if airbags. Also was told seat belt & airbag will not engage their safety features because i didn't apply brakes creating an inertia effect which would have activated both safety mechanisms. This is disturbing @ many levels as: 1 how can airbag sensors be positioned so low they won't deploy upon impact with vehicles higher from ground than mine? 2 when unconscious brakes cannot be applied therefore engaging what are supposed to be safety features to prevent injury or death? this whole incident is very unsettling as i no longer feel safe driving this vehicle. These above mentioned failures of safety features not engaging at relatively higher speed impact into rear end of stopped vehicle is not acceptable & should be thoroughly investigated.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. While driving 70 mph, the vehicle lunged forward. The srs and check engine warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was determined that the driver side air bag spiral cable spring needed to be replaced and reset. A tune up was recommended. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 120,000. Updated 10/28/16*lj
Takata recall - my case # is 10968930, first reported in may 2017. I was told our airbags would be available on 6/1/17. I received an e-mail asking where i wanted the parts sent; i answered. I waited until august 1 to call the dealer...they had no idea what i was talking about.can you help me.?
My vehicle is still waiting to be serviced for the recall for the airbags. Also my windshield wipers come on randomly when i turn on my turn signal. This problem has been going on since april of 2015, a month after i got the vehicle.
My airbag light is going on and off randomly while i am driving. If i am on a highway for a distance the light will go off until i brake or hit a small bump then it will ding and come on again. When driving on city streets it will go off and on quite a bit.
Air bag problems, recall s-61 module i dont understand how an air bag rusted over time when the car is used on a daily bases. I have contacted dodge since 2/18/17 and was told a manager was going to give me a call back it is now 3/8/17 and i have not received a call back from a manger.
While turning at low speed car accelerated uncontrollably. Air bags did not deploy in frontal crash. Car caught fire.
This is my second complaint to you in regards to a faulty airbag that was installed at your yorkville, ny carbone location.on december 28 ,2018 i went into the yorkville, ny location to have an airbag recall taken care of. Then i had to return to carbone in yorkville, ny on december 30 , 2019 because my airbag light was on.they charged me $107.66 to diagnose the issue and were going to charge me an additional $438.50 for a faulty airbag that they installed, stating this was my problem not there problem. How is this my problem when it was an airbag they fixed and now my airbag light is on due to a faulty airbag they repaired that i had no previous problems with before the recall. I then had to take my car to maugeri's in utica, ny for them to fix this faulty airbag. Parts were $150.00 and labor was $82.50 which is a total of $232.50. I would like to be reimbursed by carbone the total of $232.50 to fix the repair at my mechanics and the diagnosis fee at carbone's which brings it to the total of $340.16.again this was a faulty airbag that carbone in yorkville , ny.they need to be held accountable to installing a faulty airbag and not taking responsibility for fixing it for free.again i would like to be reimbursed my $340.16 for a faulty airbag recall that i had to fix myself. [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received a notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (air bags) however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced any failures. The vin tool confirms parts not available.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. While slowing down to approximately 5 mph towards an intersection, another vehicle collided into the contact's vehicle. The air bags failed to deploy and the seat belt failed to lock. The contact sustained head, chest, and back injuries that required medical attention. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic and repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the clock spring on the front driver side air bags failed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the clock spring needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 90,000.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts, air bags). The part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.
Recall 2010 dodge caliber seat belt and airbag defects
I have two recalls on my car and no one has contacted me re: repairs. I have previously filed complaints , but to no avail. (fca case # 31526867 amd nhtsa #10968930). There have been no accidents, but the seat belts aren't retracting like they should.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts, air bags). The parts to do the repair were unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.updated 03/07/17*lj
On december 28, 2018 i went to carbone dodge in yorkville ny for them to fix an airbag recall. Then on december 30, 2019 i had to return to carbon dodge because the my airbag light came on in my car. Now this is a faulty airbag that they replaced on my car an charged me $107.66 to diagnosis the issue and were going to charge me an additional $438.50 to fix a faulty part that they originally replaced again due to a recall order. Now i have to take it to my mechanic to fix an issue that carbone dodge should be liable for.i would like carbone dodge to be held accountable for the faulty airbag that they installed and i would like to be reimbursed the $107.66 that they charged me for the diagnosis and all the additional charges that i had to pay to my mechanic. Thanks
Air bag light is on . Driverside
What is a resonable time to wait for a car manufactuer to come up with a solution or begin fixing problem?
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts, air bags); however, the parts to do the repair were unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. An unknown dealer was contacted and confirmed that the parts were not available for the recall remedy. The manufacturer was not contacted. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
There is a recall on these parts on my automobile and there are no parts available to repair. I am worried and nervous about this possibly failing in my car due to all the past incidents with takata airbags. I would like to have this remedied if not sooner rather than later. This has increased my risk to danger and as a result i am no longer confident in the vehicle's performance. The manufacturer has not provided any timeline on when this issue will be resolved.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (air bags, seat belts); however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.
Power in vehicle began to drain 47 miles from my house going 60 to 75mph after going 75 to 80 mph temperature out side is about 50 degrees. The car acts as if it were going to stall the radio power went out. After that i tested to see if it were the lights still worked and upon turning the lights on all lights in the car dimmed completely. I went 28 miles to my appointment with no accessories on to include the heater. And radio would not get power until sitting for 30min. On the trip returning home 30miles in to my trip returning home going 60 to 75 miles highest speed for 20miles of the first 30 miles the car power started to drain. Just took it to big o tires today and was confirmed no battery issues the battery is in good condition. I have to spend $100 to do testing now. It is winter here i can not risk my life in a car that can not operate in the cold or after only 44000 miles acts like it will not operate. It happened before at highway speeds last year when i hit 35000 miles. I did some research online that this has happened in warmer climates as well at 55000 miles. Please look in to this i no longer trust my car to drive 75mph on highway. And i dear not go 75miles away from home if it can't take a 150 mile trip its not worth paying of a car last check the loan is $11,000. If the problems were known the car should have never been resold by any dealer. If i was not able to use another car i would be more upset than i am now this car is only good for an elder to go to the store and back. I wont be using this car outside my city limits its not safe.
Noticed loss in acceleration power here and there over a few months time as well as the ect light flash on for a quick moment a few times.one day i was driving and came to a stop light and when i tried to take off from the stop the whole car started shaking and knocking then cut off all while having the etc light illuminated.once this happened i could barely make it up the steep hill back to my home.i ended up having the car towed and taken to the dealership where i was informed i would have to replace the throttle body control unit for around $700!i have only had this car 2 and 1/2 years and this is not the first major issue.chrysler needs to recall the ect that they are using i also have a 2012 jeep compass that i have had 2 months and having the same issues.
My headlight went out on my car, i got a replacement bulb, put it in and nothing. I got another bulb thinking maybe it's a malfunctioning bulb. Still didn't work, tested the light socket and no power to it, looked up on google for headlight malfunctioning on 2010 dodge calibers and there are multiple complaints and videos regarding this issue going back to 2007 dodge calibers. This is an electrical problem and dodge is aware of this issue but states its not a "safety issue" however you can geta ticket for a headlight being out and your car will not pass inspection without a headlight. So how can this not be a safety issue? this needs to be arecall on this vehicle, just for the diagnostic of this issue will cost me $114/hour to have the shop diagnose the electrical problem, not fix it, just tell me what it is and then labor and parts to fix it. Check edmonds.com there are dozens of complaints about headlight failures. This is a tipm problem that appears to trigger caliber headlight failure and to replace it is expensive and dodge is aware of this issue and does nothing
2010 dodge caliber with headlight failures caused by faulty fuse box (tipm).i replace bulbs and one headlight will not light low beam or high beam. All the fuses are good. It has also affected how the car runs and has stalled on the road. This is the 4th or fifth incident i have had with the car, headlights, stalling, turn signals, air bag indicators. The headlights will not work moving or sitting still and turn signals.
Dodge put the relay box right behind the driver side wheel well and this causes the snow, water, ice and elements to get into the relay box and corrode the relays and the actual relay box, this is a problem with a lot of the calibers going back to 2007 that i know of. This will cause your car not to start out of the blue, and the wires get corroded going from the fuse box to the relay box as well. Not sure why they would put this type of electrical equipment in front of the wheel well where the elements can get inside and do damage to electrical equipment that can be very pricy. This happened to my car with no warning, no acting up or issues, just died and would not start, my battery is brand new, it's not the starter it's the corroded relays and relay box.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated while driving at approximately 55 mph, the vehicle stalled. The vehicle restarted after the first attempt. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 88,000. The vin was unavailable.
My car will not start with the factory key, or the replacement key.i got the replacement key about 1 year ago and this thethird time that both keys will not crank the car.i had to wait 20 mins in the hot car until it would crank.
Horn isnt working at all. Checked horn to see if it was broken , removed and tested on another truck, they worked. Checked fuses and there is no power to ether fuse. There is no horn relay. It is part of the tipm. The relay is on the tipm unit.vehicle was parked. When i found out the horn failed.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact attempted several times to start the ignition yet the engine failed to engage. The vehicle was towed to an authorized dealer for inspection. The technician reprogrammed the ignition key yet the failure persisted. The vehicle was taken to the dealer two different occasions for the identical failure and the contact was awaiting diagnosis by the dealer. The failure mileage was 1,713. Updated 06/01/11*ljupdated 06/10/11
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the instrument panel failed to illuminate while driving at various speeds. Also, the radio, heater, and air conditioner failed to function. The radio would shut off and made a popping noise. The contact stated that the failures occurred after replacing the air bag module recall. The vehicle was taken back to ed martin chrysler dodge jeep ram (2109 e 53rd st, anderson, in 46013, phone: (765) 642-4500), but was not diagnosed or repaired due to the diagnostic and repair fees. The manufacturer was not contacted. The approximate failure mileage was 130,000.
Steering column shimmies while driving... Also the electrical heater/air conditioning does not work just had it replaced with a new motor
While driving my car my transaxle overheating light will illiminate. My car will slow down and not keep the speed up. I have to pull over until the light goes out then i can continue my driving but it will do it all again 10 miles down the road. This happens about an hour after driving it on the highway at 70 mph i was just on a trip 2 hours from home. In a 30 minute time frame i had to pull over 6 times because of this. I have not taken it to the dealership and it has not been fixed. I have noticed many people are having the same problem why has this not been recalled yet?
Started my car this morning and let it run for awhile(5 min) until rpms went down, its 12 degrees outside, i drove through my parking lot maybe 20 ft and throttle warning light came on, i didn't know what it was at first but i researched while letting my car idle it sort of pulsated. When i went to accelerate it would barely move, thank god i was not on the highway as i was about to go to work. I've had nothing but problems with this car since i bought it 2 yrs ago!! i asked the dealership for a safe reliable car, and this is what they found smh!!
My car's speed accelerate/jumps when struggling to get to second gear.
Smoke was coming out of the off and on knob for heat/air.. I also had a cd in my cd player as i was traveling on a royal road, a strange smell was also coming from the smoke. I pulled over lifted the hood and seen no fire. I turned the knob off, removed the cd and waited a few minutes and started my car. I am wary to put a cd back in the player... I think that is what caused it but it may have been my temperature knob,, had the blower on for cool air vent.... Not ac or heat, just vent air on high.
When getting a jump from another car the computer went out had to pay a little under $900 dollars.the struts are also going out.the car is making a rowing noise. Sometimes the car did not have pick up or speed when stepping on accelerator.
While driving vehicle during winter, heat shut off. After turning heat back on (moving knob to off position and then back on) there was an electrical smoke smell in the cabin. Once the vehicle was parked, a large amount of smoke appeared to be coming from the air conditioner blower control knob and the area above the knob was hot to the touch almost to the point where i was concerned that i may need to call the fire department to have them check for fire. When car was turned on again, the blower motor would not start.
My dodge has been stalling at red lights for the past year. I have taken it to the dealer twice and they cannot replicate the issue nor can they find a code on the computer scan. They do however, recommend flushes etc. The issue has not gone away. If i am at a red light with the ac on (automatic transmission), it will idle very loud and rough and the tachometer will bounce up and down. It will also stall out at times when i move my foot from the break to the gas. If i turn the ac off it will keep it from idling rough and stalling. I also have an issue when i start my car up, put it in reverse then put it back in drive; that i all electrical power for 10 seconds. The radio turns off, the brake warning light and other dash board lights come on and then the electrical power will come back on. It is almost like the car is resetting its self; i do not lose my radio presets however.
Electrical throttle control light has popped up several times and i've noticed it's when it has rained. When this happens, the car slows down and causes forcefully pull over and shut the car off. It doesn't start after the first few tries and eventually does. The car began to overheat after driving it over 60mph for about 20mins. The car has given me the engine coolant temperature warning symbol when this happens, making an ugly almost screeching sound,slows down the car until i can't push the gas any longer causing me to pull over to turn off the car until it restarts again. The car is beginning to over heat after driving it for a long period of time over 20 mins this will began to happen. I've put coolant recently and not sure if there's a hole in the reservoir but i've done what i could to get this fixed. The car jolts after 3rd gear especially going up hill.
I was at a light in 3 lane traffic when the light changed my car began lunging and sputtering finally losing power. The electronic throttle control light began flashing. I can't even find a diagram online to tell me where that is located. On caliber forumz there are many complaints about this problem. I love my car but it really must be dependable. It would seem with all the complaints that this issue would be addressed.
The vehicle stalls at the lights or at a stop sign.no other time, for no reason it sputters a little and then stalls.it starts right away.i have taken it to the dodge dealership and because their computer doesn't find anything,they say there is nothing wrong, well evidently there is, as it shouldn't stall for no reason.i had the spark plugs changed and still stalls.from what i have read on line after purchasing the caliber many, many people are having the same problem, this could be a very serious issue if the car decides to stall while the car is in motion.i am hoping via this email that someone can look into this.thank you
We purchased vechicle 2012. Have had numberous fuses blown; front blinkers and lights rear blinkers and brake lights also the plug in where ciggerate lighter. Another issue is with car randomly not starting. Turning over for 5-10 secs. I have had to replace altanator twice, newer battery and starter. At one point it did work. The cd player and controls panel goes black when inserting cd it flickers and goes black.. Temperature gage above steering wheel lights constantly flickers..last issue is with door locks not unlocking its a menace..needless to say its been nothing but a headache.. Recently recieved recall notice in mail
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while traveling 75 mph, the vehicle suddenly stalled. The contact mentioned that the electronic components in the vehicle also failed. The vehicle was moved to the shoulder where it was restarted and resumed normal function. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the failure could not be replicated. The failure recurred and the contact was awaiting a second diagnosis. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was 68,000.
My 2010 dodge caliber has started this sputtering thing. I indicated several problems because i just don't know what the problem is.sometimes it hesitates to start and i have noticed that intermittently it has sort of jerked, but today, it just sputtered and tried to shut down in the middle of an intersection as i was turning into oncoming traffic. Although i have owned this vehicle for a little over 3 years, the mileage is only 53,000 miles. I am old and disabled. I don't know what i would have done if i had to walk. It acts like it is either a problem with the transmission or that the electrical system is trying to shut it down. I am not sure. Before i go putting fuel injector cleaner in it or, try doing anything on my own, i need some answers. Also it isn't even paid for yet! it was a "program" vehicle before i bought it. However the issues that have been going on with the sputtering started about jan. 2014. I never have received notice of any recalls but i am about to take it to the dodge dealer and find out what is going on. I am very disappointed that this is going on. I am old and need my vehicle to complete every day tasks. I also don't go anywhere very often and don't know where to take my vehicle because of the money hungry mechanics that are kind of shady out there, and i don't know what to do about this. I read numerous reviews on here and i do think i may be having the same issue of many regarding the transmission, hesitation, and seems to be trying to shut down on me in the most unlikely places, light coming on and system shutting down and trying to stall. Someone needs to do something about this immediately!
While i was driving on the turnpike (70 mph) my etc light began flashing and my car began to shake and drop down in speed. Luckily, i was able to move off to the side of the road quick enough before i was in a serious accident. My car ultimately ended having to be towed because the etc light would not turn off and i could not get the car to drive more than 2-5 mph. I am getting rid of this car. It was a very scary experience and i no longer feel safe in it since i take the turn pike every day.
Purchased this car four months ago with 79,300 miles on it. Within a couple of days it started acting up, not wanting to start. I went to the advance and they checked the battery, starter, and alternator. Machine said replace battery so i did for $150 with 5 year warranty. Left and within an hour still did not want to start. Seemed like it was prone to doing this while sitting up or down hill and not flat on pavement. It was as if it wanted to start and was making starting noises and it had to catch and then start up. I called the dealership from which i purchased the car and they looked at it no charge and it just would not do it again. Guess what it still does it now and of course the freebies are over because it was no warranty. I did purchase an extended warranty just in case. About a month ago it started jerking i was describing it as over shifting. As i proceeded to come off an exit ramp to merge into traffic which was going 60 mph my car started jerking really bad and my etc light started flashing, very scary i could have gotten hit by oncoming traffic.i slowed to 55 mph and the light went off. Went to the dodge dealership and they said throttle body was so dirty it needed cleaning. I got it cleaned this past friday and guess what was happening by saturday. Went back to the dealership today and told the service advisor to drive it with me in there and it showed out. He speed up on the freeway and the light came back on flashing and we were going so slow he turned on the hazards. Pulled over turned it off and back on and light was off we went back to the dealership and i have to drop it off tomorrow to see if anything can be figured out. I'm sure you guys know the drill. By the way my extended warranty does not cover throttle body assembly go figure. So yeah rough four months and only 83,000 miles on the car now. We need a recall on this model and a few more.
Every so often the car will not start when you put the key in the ignition and turn it. It does nothing, makes no noise. It acts as if you did nothing. You turn the key and nothing happens. Most times, when you turn the key back to the original position and try again, it will start as if nothing was wrong. It is just weird. This has happened to me at least 15 times over the past year and a half.
Imagine cruising down the tollway at 75 mph when the entire panel lights up like a christmas tree and you have no power to the engine.i was able to safely pull of on the shoulder of the road.i turned off the ignition and waited. I tried to start the engine and nothing, not a moan, nothing.it is not the battery.in a time frame of about 15 minutes, i was able to start the car and the service engine light remained on. My mechanic could not diagnose this until it was actually acting up.it repeated this 4 - 5 times over a 4 week period.finally, diagnosed as the computer module control. This is an $1100.00 repair. Has anyone else experienced this?
Whenever i have the lights on, radio on, fan blower on, and i'm stopped at a light in drive mode (automatic transmission), the engine shakes and dies.it's almost as if the car is experiencing computer overload.too many things going on for the car to handle so the computer crashes causing the car to die.the car always starts back up.no indicator lights go off on the dash.it only happens occasionally under the above mentioned circumstances.if you add on the front & rear wipers same thing happens.i've had it checked out at 3 different places, paying and for free, and they all tell me they could not find anything wrong with the car.this is a serious safety issue especially since i have a baby in the car.i have aaa and road side assistance through my insurance but they always take an hour to get to you. I've never had to use them because the car always starts back up again.this car needs to be recalled because other wise the car functions normally as long as i don't have the lights on, radio on, fan blower on, and i'm stopped at a light in drive mode.if you put it in neutral sometimes the car wants to stall but it doesn't always prevent the car from shutting down.read lots of complaints about this model, similar issue.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. While driving, the instrument panel indicators flickered. The failure recurred numerous times. The dealer diagnosed that there was an electrical shortage in the instrument panel. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 99,532.
I had been driving for a few hours at approximate 65 mph. Some of which was on cruise. All of a sudden my vehicle started slowing down. My speedometer said 60 mph. However, i was probably at 30. I stepped on the gas and the rpm went high but i didn't get any speed. Basically, the speedometer wasn't recording the speed i was at and the transmission was not working in increasing speed. I had it towed back to phoenix and the dodge dealership in mesa, az checked it over and told me that there was a "fluke" with the ctv transmission in this model and they had been seeing a lot of this as people were driving from phoenix to flagstaff which is a gradual increase over a number of miles and people were having the same issues that i did. I was told thecvt transmission goes into "limp" mode when this happens and basically shuts down. I was also led to believe they could do nothing about it. I'm surprised there isn't a recall on this model and transmission. When i goggled 2010 dodge caliber transmission problems, i came up with a utube video documenting exactly what i had experienced.
When i start my car, it starts just fine and then about 1-2 minutes later the engine check sign will come on followed by a red lighting bold on the dashboard. Once the red lightning bolt comes on either parked or driving in a city street or highway, the car immediately starts making loud noises, shakes uncontrollably and speed reduces, sometimes to the point where it shuts off while i'm still driving on the highway or city street. It sort of starts forcing itself to move while in motion. While the light is still on, if i stop at a red light or stop sign and it's time for me to go or the light is green, when i push the gas paddle the car sort of tries to move with pushes, just as though someone was pushing it while parked and then all of a sudden moves with speed. To resolve it, i have to stop on the side and turn the car off occasionally , wait about 5 minutes and then start it for the car to drive normally once again until the red lightning bolt comes on again. The light comes on whether parked or in motion. At times i'd still be driving the car and when the lightning sign comes on, the car shuts off while still on drive in the middle of traffic. I've taken it to dodge and other mechanics but nobody is able to fix it. It's really unsafe on the road with the sudden stops, pushes and shutting off.
We purchased vechicle 2012. Have had numberous fuses blown; front blinkers and lights rear blinkers and brake lights also the plug in where ciggerate lighter. Another issue is with car randomly not starting. Turning over for 5-10 secs. I have had to replace altanator twice, newer battery and starter. At one point it did work. The cd player and controls panel goes black when inserting cd it flickers and goes black.. Temperature gage above steering wheel lights constantly flickers..last issue is with door locks not unlocking its a menace..needless to say its been nothing but a headache.. Recently recieved recall notice in mail
Got it from the dealership engine light came on right after i drove off and it's going to be 100 dollars to have them even look at it the parts
The car would fail to start using remote starter on occasion then progressed to starting w/remote start but when the key inserted the car would shut down.progressed with extra problems such as not having power when it did stay running.would only go 10 mph, sputtering, with electronic throttle control coming on. I turned car off and tried again and ran for awhile and regained speed and w/out missing/sputtering.appear random and continued to work and in heavy traffic car begins to rapid decent in speed (50 mphto quick drop to 10 mph) with etc light on.with drop down in speed/momentum and not because of breaking the reason that left no indication to the person(s) behind me to have a warning.i put emergency flashers on and got to a safer place.turned car off/on,repeated sometimes w/remote was the only way to start car but many times placing the key in the ignition actually shut the car down. Improved at times but with no warning the car would go into to rapid decrease in speed and even try to stall at times,especially if it was combined with braking at stop signs/signals/traffic. The dealership only focused on the electronic throttle control and said it was completely out.the actual day i left it at dealership it was running fine that particular morning.i have had it back 1 day but i am very concerned with a repeat history of this due to no real warning because the light appears as you are already shutting down/slowing down.by the time the light comes on someone behind me could already have hit me andi usually travel interstate and this is scary.the car also wanted increase on a couple of moments but this was not as much as the reverse. Car is just over a couple of years old & i have also just replaced the driver door mechanism for the window operation (dropped when it broke).vent system repaired.
"takata recall"my wife and i purchased a vehicle and we thought we got a good deal until the car quickly became a death trap that was so unsafe to drive.the steering would pull too the left and when we went around a bridge on the freeway or any turning of the wheel. We had to stabilize the car because it would almost hop to the left and there would be a lot of traffic regardless on freeway or streets. We told them there was a lapse in the speed and this has just been a nightmare. We already paid almost all the car and we still have our warranty but they want us to pay 400 dollars,what we pay as a car pymt every month.or they said they'd finance the work they do on the car through car finance department. My wife said absolutely not. We have kids and instead of enjoying time in the car,we've spent stressed paying for it since the first week. We've been to the point of so much fear to feeling as though it's an icy day and the roads are wet and so slippery but the problem is... It wasn't even raining or snowing.. Fear of crashing or something breaking. My wife read a lot about the same thing happening with our vehicle. She saw too many people,iust like us and it said recalled, but it said things that have been reported that should be recalled but hasn't been at that time.i'm reporting this because we aren't going to pay to die in a car the mechanic didn't even want to drive far because it wasn't safe!! the mechanic from the same dealership we purchased the carfrom
2 months ago i was dropping my son off at school and i went to turn on the main road when my car started bucking and then i noticed a light with a lighting bolt flash and i turned back around and went home and read my manualand it told me if the light doesn't stay on it's drivable lately it's been bucking more then ever and so i went online and found out that there are hundreds of caliber owners with this same problem and my car has less then 60,000 miles on it. It shouldn't be having problems like this already. I still drive the car but it is not a safe feeling with kids in the back seat.
Noticed loss in acceleration power here and there over a few months time as well as the ect light flash on for a quick moment a few times.one day i was driving and came to a stop light and when i tried to take off from the stop the whole car started shaking and knocking then cut off all while having the etc light illuminated.once this happened i could barely make it up the steep hill back to my home.i ended up having the car towed and taken to the dealership where i was informed i would have to replace the throttle body control unit for around $700!i have only had this car 2 and 1/2 years and this is not the first major issue.chrysler needs to recall the ect that they are using i also have a 2012 jeep compass that i have had 2 months and having the same issues.
While driving home from work the cars speed suddenly decreased and the electronic throttle control light came on. Pulled over safely and restarted the vehicle. Light remained on. Took it to a mechanic and was informed that the throttle body must be replaced. The whole thing must be replaced since it's completely sealed and you cannot access parts inside it. This is a safety issue because the vehicle suddenly lost speed and then it would not accelerate over 30mph. The vehicle only has 70000 miles on it.did some checking online and this is a very common issue with calibers.
My car's speed accelerate/jumps when struggling to get to second gear.
Got it from the dealership engine light came on right after i drove off and it's going to be 100 dollars to have them even look at it the parts
2010 dodge caliber with headlight failures caused by faulty fuse box (tipm).i replace bulbs and one headlight will not light low beam or high beam. All the fuses are good. It has also affected how the car runs and has stalled on the road. This is the 4th or fifth incident i have had with the car, headlights, stalling, turn signals, air bag indicators. The headlights will not work moving or sitting still and turn signals.
Whenever i have the lights on, radio on, fan blower on, and i'm stopped at a light in drive mode (automatic transmission), the engine shakes and dies.it's almost as if the car is experiencing computer overload.too many things going on for the car to handle so the computer crashes causing the car to die.the car always starts back up.no indicator lights go off on the dash.it only happens occasionally under the above mentioned circumstances.if you add on the front & rear wipers same thing happens.i've had it checked out at 3 different places, paying and for free, and they all tell me they could not find anything wrong with the car.this is a serious safety issue especially since i have a baby in the car.i have aaa and road side assistance through my insurance but they always take an hour to get to you. I've never had to use them because the car always starts back up again.this car needs to be recalled because other wise the car functions normally as long as i don't have the lights on, radio on, fan blower on, and i'm stopped at a light in drive mode.if you put it in neutral sometimes the car wants to stall but it doesn't always prevent the car from shutting down.read lots of complaints about this model, similar issue.
I had took my car to get service at jiffy lube with a air filter and oil change. When driving to school i slowly started to notice a strange smell and decided to return to jiffy lube. Well on my way the problem increased and smoke and flames started appearing, that's when i quickly got out the car and called 911. I had only made it a block away from reaching jiffy lube when incident occurred .
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. While driving 70 mph, the check engine warning indicator illuminated and the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified. The failure mileage was 52,500.
This has happened a few different time, but when trying to accelerate from 45mph onto the highway from an on ramp my dodge caliber 2010 started to jerk and wouldn't let me go any faster, which made my car actually decelerate.also there were times when i tried accelerating to pass someone and it just wouldn't go any faster, but there were no jerks.
Dates & mileage are approximate.i'm not a mechanic and i have no idea which part would be causing the problem.i guessed. This has happened at least 10 times over the past 3 years.my 16 yr old granddaughter recently told me her older caliber did the same thing!this lead me to believe it is a safety/power issue with the model.why would this just be happening to our 2 vehicles?her vehicle was purchased in ga and mine in mi.i do a lot of freeway driving.each time this occurred, i was driving on freeways at 70 mph for extended periods of time.i take an exit.when i depress the accelerator to turn off the exit ramp, the engine completely "bogs down".there is very little power.each time, i have calibrated time for safely pulling out into oncoming traffic, expecting to have normal power.suddenly, i have little to no acceleration and it seems like it may stall out!you can imagine the fear of not being able to clear oncoming traffic in time.the low power continues for about a minute, then resumes normal operation.i have been fortunate enough that no accident has occurred, because it's impossible to get over to the shoulder.actually, this is so dangerous, i can't explain why i haven't had it checked out, besides inconvenience and stupidity.when my granddaughter told me about her car, that really scared me and prompted me to act. I've also come to realize that i'm putting other drivers in danger of injury or death.please let me know asap if there's been a recall or should be one on these vehicles.i have to believe there are many more out there experiencing the same dangerous malfunction and possibly injuries or death.
The vehicle stalls without warning as i am coming to a stop (such as a stop light or stop sign). There is no warning in the warning lights and this is very dangerous. I have had this happen numerous times. I bought the car used and have had the car under a year. I bought it with almost 39, 000 miles on it and only have 41, 800 on there now. It has been taken in for service at the dealership where i purchased the vehicle and they found nothing wrong. I am having the spark plugs replaced and having a maintenance check as they suggested for a fee....and for a larger fee (nearly 400.00) i can get the full service they think may alleviate the problem?? i find this problem to be a serious safety issue and have seen where other owners are complaining of the same problem. This can cause a serious accident and when will something be done about this? there should be a re-call on this as it poses a serious safety issue.
While driving on a major state highway, my temperature light came on and i heard a whining sound coming from the engine and my vehicle started to jerk.i was able to pull over to the shoulder when it stalled out. I let it sit for a couple of seconds and started the car.i took the car to the shop and they conducted a diagnostic check on the vehicle. I was told they found nothing wrong with the vehicle. They also told me that it could have been a lose gas cap that caused thisissue. The last time i went to the gas station was about two days prior to the incident.i drove several places before the incident. If it was a gas cap issue, the car would have stalled out before that. Something needs to be done.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 25 to 30 mph, the electronic throttle control light illuminated and the vehicle would not accelerate past 5 mph. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 108,000.
This vehicle has stalled twice and sputters and jerks intermittently stopped at a light, railroad crossing or otherwise. When it stalls i am able to restart it. It has been seen on 5 differently occasions and the dealers state it does not code so there is nothing they can do about. To date, (april 11-2013) the vehicle continues to sputter and stall and dodge dealer says it does not code so they can not fix the problem. This is a very convenient excuse for not fixing a vehicle that is still under mfg warranty. Something has to be done! this is an accident waiting to happen and i hope its not a bad one.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. While driving 70 mph, the vehicle lunged forward. The srs and check engine warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was determined that the driver side air bag spiral cable spring needed to be replaced and reset. A tune up was recommended. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 120,000. Updated 10/28/16*lj
While at a stop and not during acceleration, the vehicle begins to sputter and chug as if it is going to stall; sometimes it stalls, but starts right back.other times when accelerating, it jumps before catching and accelerating smoothly.took car to the dealer and they were unable duplicate the complaint and no codes were found.
My car started to suddenly slow down on the highway.i have had 4 incidents wherewhen the car is on accelerated speed suddenly slow down. Am still paying loan on the car and i have maintained service on it.i feel i maybe in danger as the car is now a safety hazard.i have researched online and saw that other people have had the same problems. I have contacted dodge corporate twice and was given case number 26243890 on phone and case number 26233972 on email. They say they can't do anything as the car is not on recall. I do not want life lost for it to be recalled.ifthere is already other people with the same problems then dodge should do something before anything bad happened.i have called local dodge dealerand they told me to pay todiagnose my car.please help so dodge to correct this problem before car causes a crash.thank you
While driving my car my transaxle overheating light will illiminate. My car will slow down and not keep the speed up. I have to pull over until the light goes out then i can continue my driving but it will do it all again 10 miles down the road. This happens about an hour after driving it on the highway at 70 mph i was just on a trip 2 hours from home. In a 30 minute time frame i had to pull over 6 times because of this. I have not taken it to the dealership and it has not been fixed. I have noticed many people are having the same problem why has this not been recalled yet?
When i start my car, it starts just fine and then about 1-2 minutes later the engine check sign will come on followed by a red lighting bold on the dashboard. Once the red lightning bolt comes on either parked or driving in a city street or highway, the car immediately starts making loud noises, shakes uncontrollably and speed reduces, sometimes to the point where it shuts off while i'm still driving on the highway or city street. It sort of starts forcing itself to move while in motion. While the light is still on, if i stop at a red light or stop sign and it's time for me to go or the light is green, when i push the gas paddle the car sort of tries to move with pushes, just as though someone was pushing it while parked and then all of a sudden moves with speed. To resolve it, i have to stop on the side and turn the car off occasionally , wait about 5 minutes and then start it for the car to drive normally once again until the red lightning bolt comes on again. The light comes on whether parked or in motion. At times i'd still be driving the car and when the lightning sign comes on, the car shuts off while still on drive in the middle of traffic. I've taken it to dodge and other mechanics but nobody is able to fix it. It's really unsafe on the road with the sudden stops, pushes and shutting off.
The contact owns 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving, the vehicle emitted a loud noise. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic in the city of cleveland, ohio where it was diagnosed that the engine cradle, the front ball joints, and the rear suspension failed due to corrosion. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 11,009.
While driving our 2010 dodge caliber on the interstate for approximately 1 hour in heavy traffic at 75mph the car suddenly starts to lose speed.the coolant light came on and a high pitch, whining sound came from the engine.we immediately had to get off the interstate. There is no warning and the car starts to lose power.the rpm's go up.we pulled off to the side, the car is in limp mode. No power and will not start.called dodge 3-4 times and they only had record of 2.this has happened 10 different occasions on the interstate.the car is not safe to drive long distance. I took it into the dealership to be looked at and they said it was a service problem.it is a defective transmission and there needs to be a recall before there is a fatality.when you talk to chrysler customer care case management or the dealership you get the run around as to what the problem is or what mileage the actual transmission service should be done. I do know that your life should not be in jeopardy if it is a service issue. Whereas this is a defective transmission there should be a recall. Chrysler initiated the call back after they knew i had made an appointment to get the car looked at.i have gotten different stories from both chrysler customer care case management and the dealership as to just how many of the 2010 dodge calibers have this transmission problem. When i took it to the dealership they hadn't seen any that went into limp mode, but after they did their diagnostic they said they had seen 100's. That's a big discrepancy!!! i do not want anyone to become a statistic!!!
This vehicle has stalled twice and spuuters and jerks intermitently stopped at a light, railroad crossing or otherwise. When it stalls i am able to restart it. It has been seen on 5 differently occassions and the dealers state it does not code so there is nothing they can do about.
The vehicle stalls at the lights or at a stop sign.no other time, for no reason it sputters a little and then stalls.it starts right away.i have taken it to the dodge dealership and because their computer doesn't find anything,they say there is nothing wrong, well evidently there is, as it shouldn't stall for no reason.i had the spark plugs changed and still stalls.from what i have read on line after purchasing the caliber many, many people are having the same problem, this could be a very serious issue if the car decides to stall while the car is in motion.i am hoping via this email that someone can look into this.thank you
Car continues to stall at stoplights or in stop-and-go traffic.complained to dodge and dealer agreed to keep car for a week to test drive and replicate issue.the technician drove for several days but the car did not stall out.dealer tested wiring, connections, and terminals.nothing was found.i was told that the issue would need to be verified to properly diagnose and repair.
While driving vehicle in the rain on the highway at about 45 miles per hour in rush-hour traffic, the car began to jerk this lasted for several seconds before the car completely stalled.it restarted immediately.took to dealer who test drove and found no issues or codes.
While pulling into traffic from a parking lot, the car would not accelerate, despite my best attempts, finally after several seconds of coasting and the pedal pushed all the way down, the vehicle jumped into acceleration.during this incident, the check engine light came on.i promptly took it to the dealer, who ran the code and it said p0455 large evac leak.the dealer ran the esim test and vac test with no results.they told me that i probably had a loose gas cap.i had not been at the gas station in days.also, when the gas cap is loose, an error abbreviation for gas cap shows up in the mileage readout and does not come back on after the cap is tightened.i have never had the incident described above occur because of a loose gas cap.no further work or diagnosis was done on the vehicle.
Power in vehicle began to drain 47 miles from my house going 60 to 75mph after going 75 to 80 mph temperature out side is about 50 degrees. The car acts as if it were going to stall the radio power went out. After that i tested to see if it were the lights still worked and upon turning the lights on all lights in the car dimmed completely. I went 28 miles to my appointment with no accessories on to include the heater. And radio would not get power until sitting for 30min. On the trip returning home 30miles in to my trip returning home going 60 to 75 miles highest speed for 20miles of the first 30 miles the car power started to drain. Just took it to big o tires today and was confirmed no battery issues the battery is in good condition. I have to spend $100 to do testing now. It is winter here i can not risk my life in a car that can not operate in the cold or after only 44000 miles acts like it will not operate. It happened before at highway speeds last year when i hit 35000 miles. I did some research online that this has happened in warmer climates as well at 55000 miles. Please look in to this i no longer trust my car to drive 75mph on highway. And i dear not go 75miles away from home if it can't take a 150 mile trip its not worth paying of a car last check the loan is $11,000. If the problems were known the car should have never been resold by any dealer. If i was not able to use another car i would be more upset than i am now this car is only good for an elder to go to the store and back. I wont be using this car outside my city limits its not safe.
2010 dodge caliber with headlight failures caused by faulty fuse box (tipm).i replace bulbs and one headlight will not light low beam or high beam. All the fuses are good. It has also affected how the car runs and has stalled on the road. This is the 4th or fifth incident i have had with the car, headlights, stalling, turn signals, air bag indicators. The headlights will not work moving or sitting still and turn signals.
My headlight went out on my car, i got a replacement bulb, put it in and nothing. I got another bulb thinking maybe it's a malfunctioning bulb. Still didn't work, tested the light socket and no power to it, looked up on google for headlight malfunctioning on 2010 dodge calibers and there are multiple complaints and videos regarding this issue going back to 2007 dodge calibers. This is an electrical problem and dodge is aware of this issue but states its not a "safety issue" however you can geta ticket for a headlight being out and your car will not pass inspection without a headlight. So how can this not be a safety issue? this needs to be arecall on this vehicle, just for the diagnostic of this issue will cost me $114/hour to have the shop diagnose the electrical problem, not fix it, just tell me what it is and then labor and parts to fix it. Check edmonds.com there are dozens of complaints about headlight failures. This is a tipm problem that appears to trigger caliber headlight failure and to replace it is expensive and dodge is aware of this issue and does nothing
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the head light covers were forming condensations, which the contact was concerned that the failure could possibly cause an electrical short. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the technician diagnosed that the headlight assembly needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 52,000.
The tipm module causes the left headlight low beam to not work, after replacing the bulb.
The passenger side headlight will not work. I have tried a new one and nothing. I have power to the socket but the light will not work. I have read that the problem is the fuse box. It's been a problem since they made the car in 2007. $1000.00 or better to fix it.
My 2010 dodge caliber has started this sputtering thing. I indicated several problems because i just don't know what the problem is.sometimes it hesitates to start and i have noticed that intermittently it has sort of jerked, but today, it just sputtered and tried to shut down in the middle of an intersection as i was turning into oncoming traffic. Although i have owned this vehicle for a little over 3 years, the mileage is only 53,000 miles. I am old and disabled. I don't know what i would have done if i had to walk. It acts like it is either a problem with the transmission or that the electrical system is trying to shut it down. I am not sure. Before i go putting fuel injector cleaner in it or, try doing anything on my own, i need some answers. Also it isn't even paid for yet! it was a "program" vehicle before i bought it. However the issues that have been going on with the sputtering started about jan. 2014. I never have received notice of any recalls but i am about to take it to the dodge dealer and find out what is going on. I am very disappointed that this is going on. I am old and need my vehicle to complete every day tasks. I also don't go anywhere very often and don't know where to take my vehicle because of the money hungry mechanics that are kind of shady out there, and i don't know what to do about this. I read numerous reviews on here and i do think i may be having the same issue of many regarding the transmission, hesitation, and seems to be trying to shut down on me in the most unlikely places, light coming on and system shutting down and trying to stall. Someone needs to do something about this immediately!
While driving vehicle in the rain on the highway at about 45 miles per hour in rush-hour traffic, the car began to jerk this lasted for several seconds before the car completely stalled.it restarted immediately.took to dealer who test drove and found no issues or codes.
While pulling into traffic from a parking lot, the car would not accelerate, despite my best attempts, finally after several seconds of coasting and the pedal pushed all the way down, the vehicle jumped into acceleration.during this incident, the check engine light came on.i promptly took it to the dealer, who ran the code and it said p0455 large evac leak.the dealer ran the esim test and vac test with no results.they told me that i probably had a loose gas cap.i had not been at the gas station in days.also, when the gas cap is loose, an error abbreviation for gas cap shows up in the mileage readout and does not come back on after the cap is tightened.i have never had the incident described above occur because of a loose gas cap.no further work or diagnosis was done on the vehicle.
On 7/9/10 i pulled into a parking space @ office where i work, i took my foot off the gas pedal the car began to slow as i went to touch the brake the car accelerated and lunged forward i pressed on the brake it did not slow down it jump the carb & than hit the wall of the building putting a hole in it also breaking off a drain pipe, on the outside. I went inside the office and there was two cracks in the wall inside. The front bumper was broke in two places on the car. I called my insurance state farm & reported it. My office informed the business complex manager. Had the car towed the chapman dodge for repairs.
The car would fail to start using remote starter on occasion then progressed to starting w/remote start but when the key inserted the car would shut down.progressed with extra problems such as not having power when it did stay running.would only go 10 mph, sputtering, with electronic throttle control coming on. I turned car off and tried again and ran for awhile and regained speed and w/out missing/sputtering.appear random and continued to work and in heavy traffic car begins to rapid decent in speed (50 mphto quick drop to 10 mph) with etc light on.with drop down in speed/momentum and not because of breaking the reason that left no indication to the person(s) behind me to have a warning.i put emergency flashers on and got to a safer place.turned car off/on,repeated sometimes w/remote was the only way to start car but many times placing the key in the ignition actually shut the car down. Improved at times but with no warning the car would go into to rapid decrease in speed and even try to stall at times,especially if it was combined with braking at stop signs/signals/traffic. The dealership only focused on the electronic throttle control and said it was completely out.the actual day i left it at dealership it was running fine that particular morning.i have had it back 1 day but i am very concerned with a repeat history of this due to no real warning because the light appears as you are already shutting down/slowing down.by the time the light comes on someone behind me could already have hit me andi usually travel interstate and this is scary.the car also wanted increase on a couple of moments but this was not as much as the reverse. Car is just over a couple of years old & i have also just replaced the driver door mechanism for the window operation (dropped when it broke).vent system repaired.
We purchased vechicle 2012. Have had numberous fuses blown; front blinkers and lights rear blinkers and brake lights also the plug in where ciggerate lighter. Another issue is with car randomly not starting. Turning over for 5-10 secs. I have had to replace altanator twice, newer battery and starter. At one point it did work. The cd player and controls panel goes black when inserting cd it flickers and goes black.. Temperature gage above steering wheel lights constantly flickers..last issue is with door locks not unlocking its a menace..needless to say its been nothing but a headache.. Recently recieved recall notice in mail
Started my car this morning and let it run for awhile(5 min) until rpms went down, its 12 degrees outside, i drove through my parking lot maybe 20 ft and throttle warning light came on, i didn't know what it was at first but i researched while letting my car idle it sort of pulsated. When i went to accelerate it would barely move, thank god i was not on the highway as i was about to go to work. I've had nothing but problems with this car since i bought it 2 yrs ago!! i asked the dealership for a safe reliable car, and this is what they found smh!!
July 03, 2014 the internal electronic throttle was replaced,it is now doing the same thing as then as of december 01, 2016.. Etc light comes on,decrease in acceleration , stumbles in take off, hesitates, have to pull car off road and stop,wait a few minutes to reset and it will continue like nothing has happened.need to check the manufactory warranty on this part.dealership told me they warrant the part for up to 2 years but check with the manufactory. How do i do that and know what the manufactory is?
This has happened a few different time, but when trying to accelerate from 45mph onto the highway from an on ramp my dodge caliber 2010 started to jerk and wouldn't let me go any faster, which made my car actually decelerate.also there were times when i tried accelerating to pass someone and it just wouldn't go any faster, but there were no jerks.
I had been driving for a few hours at approximate 65 mph. Some of which was on cruise. All of a sudden my vehicle started slowing down. My speedometer said 60 mph. However, i was probably at 30. I stepped on the gas and the rpm went high but i didn't get any speed. Basically, the speedometer wasn't recording the speed i was at and the transmission was not working in increasing speed. I had it towed back to phoenix and the dodge dealership in mesa, az checked it over and told me that there was a "fluke" with the ctv transmission in this model and they had been seeing a lot of this as people were driving from phoenix to flagstaff which is a gradual increase over a number of miles and people were having the same issues that i did. I was told thecvt transmission goes into "limp" mode when this happens and basically shuts down. I was also led to believe they could do nothing about it. I'm surprised there isn't a recall on this model and transmission. When i goggled 2010 dodge caliber transmission problems, i came up with a utube video documenting exactly what i had experienced.
Whenever i have the lights on, radio on, fan blower on, and i'm stopped at a light in drive mode (automatic transmission), the engine shakes and dies.it's almost as if the car is experiencing computer overload.too many things going on for the car to handle so the computer crashes causing the car to die.the car always starts back up.no indicator lights go off on the dash.it only happens occasionally under the above mentioned circumstances.if you add on the front & rear wipers same thing happens.i've had it checked out at 3 different places, paying and for free, and they all tell me they could not find anything wrong with the car.this is a serious safety issue especially since i have a baby in the car.i have aaa and road side assistance through my insurance but they always take an hour to get to you. I've never had to use them because the car always starts back up again.this car needs to be recalled because other wise the car functions normally as long as i don't have the lights on, radio on, fan blower on, and i'm stopped at a light in drive mode.if you put it in neutral sometimes the car wants to stall but it doesn't always prevent the car from shutting down.read lots of complaints about this model, similar issue.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. While attempting to open the tailgate, the latch failed to open. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to glockner of ashland (1041 greenup ave, ashland, ky 41101, (606) 329-8616) where it was diagnosed that the latch and trim needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired.the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who stated that the lock and latch needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was contacted and did not assist. The failure mileage was 18,576.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 75 mph, the transmission temperature light illuminated. In addition, there was a burning odor and the vehicle decreased in speed. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The vin was unavailable. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure.
Takata recall". I had a bad experienceonthe way home from visiting family about a hr from towni was driving had my air on cause it was extremely hot out sidei drove going about 60 to 70adverage then transmission temp light come oncar start slowing downcant go any fasternothing seen gadges going all the way upand nothing foot was all the way down no powerso i pull overscared wat the hell wrong with my transmission wat did i do i had no power shut off my car for 20 minpoint was i was driving on a major highway and for this to happendhad no power to my car i could of got hit couldnt move or do nothingand no one can seem to find the problem to this sulutioncause itdont happend all the time just when it wantsand replacing parts after part and still not fixing the problem has to be a issue i just dont understand what the problem and y does it happend when they say everything working finefrom the dodge place and they cant find the problems to the situation please help if u can
After driving on interstate for 3 hours, the car would hesitate to go from a stop. Over the next 2 years, the problem has worsened!! it is to the point where after a 2-3 hour trip, there is such hesitation that if i'm on an incline the car will actually roll backwards while pressing accelerator!! this has shown a stored code of p0730 (which dealership tells me they won't do anything about unless they can duplicate problem). I won't allow my children and grandchildren to travel with me in this car anymore because i fear for their safety!! i would greatly appreciate any help your agency can provide for this dangerous problem!!!!!
My vehicle has a manual transmission.in january 2015 the transmission failed and the powertrain was replaced.after that, when shifting, occasionally the engine would rev as if i hadn't taken my foot off the accelerator when depressing the clutch and it was impossible to shift.sometimes the vehicle would speed up on its own and other times it took forever to get the car up to posted speeds.the occasional engine revving became more frequent as the winter wore on as well as the fast/slow acceleration making the car's performance unpredictable and unsafe to drive.i took it to the dealership a second time and they diagnosed "throttle body failure" and replaced it.this cost me $572.68.i have now had the car back only a couple of days, but am unsure if this will happen again. Online there are a lot of complaints about throttle body failure in the dodge caliber.this is a huge safety issue that needs to be addressed before someone is killed or injured by an uncontrollable vehicle.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 75 mph, the transmission temperature light illuminated. In addition, there was a burning odor and the vehicle decreased in speed. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The vin was unavailable. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 89,000.
Imagine cruising down the tollway at 75 mph when the entire panel lights up like a christmas tree and you have no power to the engine.i was able to safely pull of on the shoulder of the road.i turned off the ignition and waited. I tried to start the engine and nothing, not a moan, nothing.it is not the battery.in a time frame of about 15 minutes, i was able to start the car and the service engine light remained on. My mechanic could not diagnose this until it was actually acting up.it repeated this 4 - 5 times over a 4 week period.finally, diagnosed as the computer module control. This is an $1100.00 repair. Has anyone else experienced this?
While driving our 2010 dodge caliber on the interstate for approximately 1 hour in heavy traffic at 75mph the car suddenly starts to lose speed.the coolant light came on and a high pitch, whining sound came from the engine.we immediately had to get off the interstate. There is no warning and the car starts to lose power.the rpm's go up.we pulled off to the side, the car is in limp mode. No power and will not start.called dodge 3-4 times and they only had record of 2.this has happened 10 different occasions on the interstate.the car is not safe to drive long distance. I took it into the dealership to be looked at and they said it was a service problem.it is a defective transmission and there needs to be a recall before there is a fatality.when you talk to chrysler customer care case management or the dealership you get the run around as to what the problem is or what mileage the actual transmission service should be done. I do know that your life should not be in jeopardy if it is a service issue. Whereas this is a defective transmission there should be a recall. Chrysler initiated the call back after they knew i had made an appointment to get the car looked at.i have gotten different stories from both chrysler customer care case management and the dealership as to just how many of the 2010 dodge calibers have this transmission problem. When i took it to the dealership they hadn't seen any that went into limp mode, but after they did their diagnostic they said they had seen 100's. That's a big discrepancy!!! i do not want anyone to become a statistic!!!
Whenever i drive my car it starts jerking and won't accelerate. I was driving about 50mph on the highway.
We got on the freeway for 30mins and the transmissiontemp light came on. Then it started smelling like something was burning. The car stopped gaining speed and we took it back too the dealership. We feel this car is not safe for the family.there is tapping sounds coming from the dashboard and it happen all the time, even when the car is not running. They need recall this car-
Dates & mileage are approximate.i'm not a mechanic and i have no idea which part would be causing the problem.i guessed. This has happened at least 10 times over the past 3 years.my 16 yr old granddaughter recently told me her older caliber did the same thing!this lead me to believe it is a safety/power issue with the model.why would this just be happening to our 2 vehicles?her vehicle was purchased in ga and mine in mi.i do a lot of freeway driving.each time this occurred, i was driving on freeways at 70 mph for extended periods of time.i take an exit.when i depress the accelerator to turn off the exit ramp, the engine completely "bogs down".there is very little power.each time, i have calibrated time for safely pulling out into oncoming traffic, expecting to have normal power.suddenly, i have little to no acceleration and it seems like it may stall out!you can imagine the fear of not being able to clear oncoming traffic in time.the low power continues for about a minute, then resumes normal operation.i have been fortunate enough that no accident has occurred, because it's impossible to get over to the shoulder.actually, this is so dangerous, i can't explain why i haven't had it checked out, besides inconvenience and stupidity.when my granddaughter told me about her car, that really scared me and prompted me to act. I've also come to realize that i'm putting other drivers in danger of injury or death.please let me know asap if there's been a recall or should be one on these vehicles.i have to believe there are many more out there experiencing the same dangerous malfunction and possibly injuries or death.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated while driving at approximately 55 mph, the vehicle stalled. The vehicle restarted after the first attempt. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 88,000. The vin was unavailable.
This standard transmission 2010 dodge caliber continually stalls out when the car is in neutral, such as at intersections, railroad crossings, toll booths, and parking lots. It usually takes five to ten minutes of attempts before the car will restart. This poses a serious safety problem because often trucks or other cars driving up behind me barely slow down in time, even though my flashers are blinking.last weekend i was almost hit from behind by a large truck while i was attempting to get the car re-started at a traffic light.dodge refuses to attempt to fix the problem unless their computer can tell them exactly what to do. In the words of the dodge representative, "we don't want to just throw parts away."dodge has a private message board accessibly only by registered dodge owners. The section for caliber owners contains many posts by other owners and former owners who have experienced this defect on their dodge calibers.the car is still under the manufacturer's warranty.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 50 mph, the vehicle lost power and jerked. In addition, the contact stated theaccelerator pedal was depressed but the vehicle failed to accelerate. Theelectronic throttle control warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the hoses needed to be tightened. The vehicle was repaired however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, who diagnosed that the throttle body needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 67,000. Updated 5/19/15 updated 10/2/2017
Transmission failure under 100,00 miles. Took it to 3 different transmission shops and was told that this type of transmission (cvt) , which dodge only uses for the caliber is basically junk. Precision said that he's seen so many of these cars for the same problem. They don't rebuild them because of how they are made. I could take a chance on buying a remanufactured one at a cost of 1500.00 plus 650.00 labor and a year or so later have the same problem. Or a brand new one at a cost of 3000-4000 dollars. This is ridiculous. I don't understand why there isn't a recall. After researching online this is common problem with these cars. Some stating failure at only 36,000 miles. And they put these transmissions in both , 2.0 and 2.4 motors . There needs to be a recall on these cvt transmissions as they are junk and they know it. It gave me no warning. Went to work one day, tried to go to qwik trip on lunch. Car started making this loud noise when i accelerated, rpm's shot way up and then the check engine light came on. So drove it back to my job and more i accelerated the more noise it made. Had to get it towed from my job to my aunts house because it was closer than my house which is :35 minutes drive.
Ok so let me start by saving lives there is a serious problem with all these caliber the subframes are rotting in half i know because i have 3 other people who have this stupid car and they rusted in half on them also things to add to this car is there is no upper ball joint which cause the lower control arms to go bad is the shocks are bad i had to replace pretty much everything and also had to replace cvt 20k miles into this hunk of crap cvt is bad and the bands they use are cheap but also seems to be a cooling problem with there set up for transmission with cause them to heat up and burn fluids chrysler shouldn't be allowed to get away with this crap and honestly you will see alot more of these cars causing people to die seriously take a look online and see for yourselves it's pretty sicking to me and i feel like y'all ain't doing your job my 30 year old camaro subframe never rotted like this and sat and driven in all weather
The car has begun to shift hard and not engage immediately when trying to accelerate.this occurs worse in stop and go traffic, when the car is cold, and when driving up hill.i took the car to the dealer, a technician drove it and was able to replicate.he checked the transmission fluid, which was fine and decided it must be the motor mounts, but upon further inspection could not find a problem with them.he drove the car again and checked the transmission fluid immediately after stopping.the transmission fluid was foaming and he suggested a transmission service although the car isn't due until 100,000 miles and my vehicle is at 60,000.i had the transmission service done and the car appeared to be working properly for awhile, but is now exhibiting the same shifting/acceleration issues as it was before the fluid was changed.
I've had the arm bar and ball joint replaced twice in a year's time, which causes a grinding noise. I've had the brakes replaced three times along with rattle clips, in the last year, with no prevail in changing the noise nor high speed-braking oscillating. A caliper has also been replaced. While sitting at stop lights, the car unpredictably stalls-- i've tried to reproduce the setting to have the issue happen when a technician tests it, but it appears to happen unpredictably. The car has leaked from some entry point to cause the floor boards to be wet, and in the last year, the sun roof seems to be leaking as i have water pouring onto me from the front dome lightt. The water is causing mold, which is not beneficial to the family i drive with. Based on the nhtsa site and the thousands of youtube videos, these are pretty wildly known issues by dodge, despite the lack of complaints on these sites.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts, air bags). The part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (air bags, seat belts); however, the part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts, air bags); however, the parts to do the repair were unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. An unknown dealer was contacted and confirmed that the parts were not available for the recall remedy. The manufacturer was not contacted. The contact had not experienced a failure. Parts distribution disconnect.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. While slowing down to approximately 5 mph towards an intersection, another vehicle collided into the contact's vehicle. The air bags failed to deploy and the seat belt failed to lock. The contact sustained head, chest, and back injuries that required medical attention. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic and repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.
Recall 2010 dodge caliber seat belt and airbag defects
Occupant restraint controller recall... The fact that this is not resolved is unacceptable. If they are unwilling to repair, i would expect a full refund for the car.
The passage seat belt will not come out properly. The passage has to keep pulling on the seat belt to get to come out and the seat belt sign on the dash board will not go out when the seat belt has been put on and the bell keep ringing while driving
There is a recall on these parts on my automobile and there are no parts available to repair. I am worried and nervous about this possibly failing in my car due to all the past incidents with takata airbags. I would like to have this remedied if not sooner rather than later. This has increased my risk to danger and as a result i am no longer confident in the vehicle's performance. The manufacturer has not provided any timeline on when this issue will be resolved.
I have two recalls on my car and no one has contacted me re: repairs. I have previously filed complaints , but to no avail. (fca case # 31526867 amd nhtsa #10968930). There have been no accidents, but the seat belts aren't retracting like they should.
What is a resonable time to wait for a car manufactuer to come up with a solution or begin fixing problem?
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts, air bags). The part to do the repair was unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Updated 06/13/17*ljthe consumer stated the vehicle was due to be repaired on 6/1/17. Updated 6/23/17
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts); however, the parts to do the repair were unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. A local dealer (foss motors located at 133 portsmouth ave exeter, nh 03833) stated that the remedy parts were on backorder. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue and was not able to confirm when the parts were to become available. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.updated 09/01/17*lj
I was traveling at approximately 40 mph when i lost consciousness due to adverse reaction to a prescribed medication. Approached retro-style pickup truck stopped at red light & because of being unconscious didn't apply brakes to slow down & stop. Frontal crash into rear end of stopped vehicle. Airbags didn't deploy nor did seatbelt engage to prevent me from being thrust forward face first into steering wheel. Incurred significant damage to front teeth & neck/back strain. Was informed by chrysler corp. That airbag sensors are positioned too low for deployment. Also informed because i did not apply brakes this was cause for both seat belt not engaging to prevent forward thrust into steering wheel and deployment if airbags. Also was told seat belt & airbag will not engage their safety features because i didn't apply brakes creating an inertia effect which would have activated both safety mechanisms. This is disturbing @ many levels as: 1 how can airbag sensors be positioned so low they won't deploy upon impact with vehicles higher from ground than mine? 2 when unconscious brakes cannot be applied therefore engaging what are supposed to be safety features to prevent injury or death? this whole incident is very unsettling as i no longer feel safe driving this vehicle. These above mentioned failures of safety features not engaging at relatively higher speed impact into rear end of stopped vehicle is not acceptable & should be thoroughly investigated.
Takata recall. The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact received notification of nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts, air bags). The parts to do the repair were unavailable. The contact stated that the manufacturer exceeded a reasonable amount of time for the recall repair. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The contact had not experienced a failure. Vin tool confirms parts not available.updated 03/07/17*lj
Will not pump down
I've never been in an accident but the driver's headrest still broke. Why did this happen?
When its rains it leaks from the sunroof into the light.struts are outabs light on brakes have been fixed
I've had the arm bar and ball joint replaced twice in a year's time, which causes a grinding noise. I've had the brakes replaced three times along with rattle clips, in the last year, with no prevail in changing the noise nor high speed-braking oscillating. A caliper has also been replaced. While sitting at stop lights, the car unpredictably stalls-- i've tried to reproduce the setting to have the issue happen when a technician tests it, but it appears to happen unpredictably. The car has leaked from some entry point to cause the floor boards to be wet, and in the last year, the sun roof seems to be leaking as i have water pouring onto me from the front dome lightt. The water is causing mold, which is not beneficial to the family i drive with. Based on the nhtsa site and the thousands of youtube videos, these are pretty wildly known issues by dodge, despite the lack of complaints on these sites.
The brake does not totally engagein park.often the vehicle will not start until the gear handle is wiggled and played with to get it all the away engaged.
Steering column shimmies while driving... Also the electrical heater/air conditioning does not work just had it replaced with a new motor
"takata recall"my wife and i purchased a vehicle and we thought we got a good deal until the car quickly became a death trap that was so unsafe to drive.the steering would pull too the left and when we went around a bridge on the freeway or any turning of the wheel. We had to stabilize the car because it would almost hop to the left and there would be a lot of traffic regardless on freeway or streets. We told them there was a lapse in the speed and this has just been a nightmare. We already paid almost all the car and we still have our warranty but they want us to pay 400 dollars,what we pay as a car pymt every month.or they said they'd finance the work they do on the car through car finance department. My wife said absolutely not. We have kids and instead of enjoying time in the car,we've spent stressed paying for it since the first week. We've been to the point of so much fear to feeling as though it's an icy day and the roads are wet and so slippery but the problem is... It wasn't even raining or snowing.. Fear of crashing or something breaking. My wife read a lot about the same thing happening with our vehicle. She saw too many people,iust like us and it said recalled, but it said things that have been reported that should be recalled but hasn't been at that time.i'm reporting this because we aren't going to pay to die in a car the mechanic didn't even want to drive far because it wasn't safe!! the mechanic from the same dealership we purchased the carfrom
Takata recall. My car keeps on blowing the rear tire about every 6-8 months.my steering wheel also shakes/vibrates when driving over 55 mph. The tires are wearing uneven. I have discovered that there is a rear cross member recall for my car which would explain this. I will be taking my car in to be aligned however i would like to know how to get the recall honored before doing so
Electrical throttle control light has popped up several times and i've noticed it's when it has rained. When this happens, the car slows down and causes forcefully pull over and shut the car off. It doesn't start after the first few tries and eventually does. The car began to overheat after driving it over 60mph for about 20mins. The car has given me the engine coolant temperature warning symbol when this happens, making an ugly almost screeching sound,slows down the car until i can't push the gas any longer causing me to pull over to turn off the car until it restarts again. The car is beginning to over heat after driving it for a long period of time over 20 mins this will began to happen. I've put coolant recently and not sure if there's a hole in the reservoir but i've done what i could to get this fixed. The car jolts after 3rd gear especially going up hill.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while their son was driving and attempting to make a left turn into a parking lot, the driver's side front wheel detached from the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to a certified mechanic who diagnosed that the front crossmember was corroded. The vehicle's subframe was repaired, the front crossmember was repaired, and the vehicle received an alignment. The repairs were related to manufacturer communication with nhtsa id number: 10140027 (suspension, steering). The manufacturer was made aware of the issue and informed the contact that due to the repairs being completed outside of an authorized dealer there would be no reimbursement. A case was opened. The approximate failure mileage was 105,000.
Ok so let me start by saving lives there is a serious problem with all these caliber the subframes are rotting in half i know because i have 3 other people who have this stupid car and they rusted in half on them also things to add to this car is there is no upper ball joint which cause the lower control arms to go bad is the shocks are bad i had to replace pretty much everything and also had to replace cvt 20k miles into this hunk of crap cvt is bad and the bands they use are cheap but also seems to be a cooling problem with there set up for transmission with cause them to heat up and burn fluids chrysler shouldn't be allowed to get away with this crap and honestly you will see alot more of these cars causing people to die seriously take a look online and see for yourselves it's pretty sicking to me and i feel like y'all ain't doing your job my 30 year old camaro subframe never rotted like this and sat and driven in all weather
Steering wheel has a slight noise when turning .itfeelslike a clicking sound when i turn the wheel.
Frame rusted, broke and damaged the vehicle. Total loss.
I parked my car in parking lot while car was in drive turned off the ignitionand i withdrew my key from the ignition and left the car. When i returned to the car 3 people were leaning against the rear of the car to keep it from rolling out into 2 other cars. The door was locked and the shift was still in drive.this is a safety hazard.the dodge mechanic found that the shifter is broken internally and needs to be replaced.
Suspension cross member frame, struts, bushings & sway bar.took car in for routine oil change. Mechanic inspected car & noticed severe rusting on front cross member. So, bad that my car was not safe to drive. I was told there was a recent recall from dodge that had expired in 2018.i never saw this recall notice. I did get the airbag recall notice & took my car ro dodge to fix in spring 2018. They could have fixed the crossmember at that time. The mechanic also had to replace struts, bushing & suspension stabilizer sway bar as a result of the rusted suspension cross member.
After having rain on thanksgiving day i went to the car to load up leftovers and return home and there was water on the back passenger side floor. This had never happened before this day.
Frame rusted, broke and damaged the vehicle. Total loss.
The front passenger side door won't shut right,when you shut you have to do it hard or it won't latch then when you open it just pops open.ive had it in the shop where i bought it and they said it was just off balance and readjusted it but it never helped.i just read on this website that the rod in the door has been recalled
Front subframe is rusted out with visible holes. Manufacturer only extended warranty and did not issue recall.i just found out and tried to get it repaired but extended warranty is expired and they will not cover costs.tons of owners complaining about this as it is listed as front and rear crossmember corrosion (x69 warranty extension) - 2008-2012 dodge caliber & jeep compass/patriot>tons of owners are furious and trying to get help on this serious issue that can easily result in a catastrophic accident and even death.
Suspension cross member frame, struts, bushings & sway bar.took car in for routine oil change. Mechanic inspected car & noticed severe rusting on front cross member. So, bad that my car was not safe to drive. I was told there was a recent recall from dodge that had expired in 2018.i never saw this recall notice. I did get the airbag recall notice & took my car ro dodge to fix in spring 2018. They could have fixed the crossmember at that time. The mechanic also had to replace struts, bushing & suspension stabilizer sway bar as a result of the rusted suspension cross member.
I had took my car to get service at jiffy lube with a air filter and oil change. When driving to school i slowly started to notice a strange smell and decided to return to jiffy lube. Well on my way the problem increased and smoke and flames started appearing, that's when i quickly got out the car and called 911. I had only made it a block away from reaching jiffy lube when incident occurred .
When its rains it leaks from the sunroof into the light.struts are outabs light on brakes have been fixed
Frame where lower control arm bolts on rusted through and cracked. Wheel on front driver side suddenly lost alignment while driving straight down a road in lansing. I'm lucky it didn't come completely off as i was driving at 45 mph directly after driving at slower speeds with many turns in east lansing.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the back floorboard would become filled with water whenever it rained. No other section of the vehicle would become wet. The failure recurred numerous times, causing water damage to the vehicle and growing mold. The vehicle was taken to the dealer several times but the failure was unable to be diagnosed. The manufacturer was notified and after several failed attempts to repair the vehicle, advised the contact to go to the dealer and choose a new vehicle.however, they later advised that due to the mileage of the original vehicle, they would not provide her with a new vehicle. The failure mileages were 50 and the current mileage was 2,349.
Frame where lower control arm bolts on rusted through and cracked. Wheel on front driver side suddenly lost alignment while driving straight down a road in lansing. I'm lucky it didn't come completely off as i was driving at 45 mph directly after driving at slower speeds with many turns in east lansing.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while having a recall repair performed under nhtsa campaign number: 16v668000 (seat belts, air bags) at maguire dodge ram of syracuse (959 hiawatha blvd w, syracuse, ny 13204, (844) 327-8693) the technician informed the contact that the front crossmember was severely corroded and the vehicle was deemed unsafe to drive. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 78,000.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while their son was driving and attempting to make a left turn into a parking lot, the driver's side front wheel detached from the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to a certified mechanic who diagnosed that the front crossmember was corroded. The vehicle's subframe was repaired, the front crossmember was repaired, and the vehicle received an alignment. The repairs were related to manufacturer communication with nhtsa id number: 10140027 (suspension, steering). The manufacturer was made aware of the issue and informed the contact that due to the repairs being completed outside of an authorized dealer there would be no reimbursement. A case was opened. The approximate failure mileage was 105,000.
Front subframe is rusted out with visible holes. Manufacturer only extended warranty and did not issue recall.i just found out and tried to get it repaired but extended warranty is expired and they will not cover costs.tons of owners complaining about this as it is listed as front and rear crossmember corrosion (x69 warranty extension) - 2008-2012 dodge caliber & jeep compass/patriot>tons of owners are furious and trying to get help on this serious issue that can easily result in a catastrophic accident and even death.
The contact owns 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving, the vehicle emitted a loud noise. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic in the city of cleveland, ohio where it was diagnosed that the engine cradle, the front ball joints, and the rear suspension failed due to corrosion. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 11,009.
My subframe rusted out affecting my steering. I had to pull off the interstate since i almost lost all control. Since my car came from a salt state the subframe is being replaced due to a warranty extension from dodge, however the control arms need to be replaced as well. They have prematurely worn out due to thr incorrect support of the subframe. Dodge refuses to fix this as well.
While purchasing tires mechanic noticed, both front and rear subframes are corroding to the point of failure, vehicle unsafe to drive.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the rear adjustable control arms of the vehicle were welded to the vehicle and failed to adjust. As a result, the inside of the rear tires became worn. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the tires needed to be replaced on three occasions, but the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken back to the dealer where the technician stated that the adjustable control arm needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 30,900.
When its rains it leaks from the sunroof into the light.struts are outabs light on brakes have been fixed
On 10/5/2016, the sub frame on my car broke due to it being rusted through. Thank goodness it broke when i was going at a slow speed, and no accident occurred. I had to be towed and it was put onto a lift. The garage mechanicinspected the car's sub frame, which was broken and rusted completely, but the rest of the car is perfect, not a speck of rust.when i called the dodge corporation number i was told that there is no recall for this, only prior years, which has the same part! i was told that i live in a high corrosion area, due to salt on our roads in the winter. If that was the case, then why is this the only part in the car that is rusted?i was charged $1032.86 for the new part to be installed, and it alsohad to be aligned. I have looked on line and seen a numerous number of complaints about the same issue from other people. The local dodge dealer employees stated that they see this happening frequently!
Ok so let me start by saving lives there is a serious problem with all these caliber the subframes are rotting in half i know because i have 3 other people who have this stupid car and they rusted in half on them also things to add to this car is there is no upper ball joint which cause the lower control arms to go bad is the shocks are bad i had to replace pretty much everything and also had to replace cvt 20k miles into this hunk of crap cvt is bad and the bands they use are cheap but also seems to be a cooling problem with there set up for transmission with cause them to heat up and burn fluids chrysler shouldn't be allowed to get away with this crap and honestly you will see alot more of these cars causing people to die seriously take a look online and see for yourselves it's pretty sicking to me and i feel like y'all ain't doing your job my 30 year old camaro subframe never rotted like this and sat and driven in all weather
The front lower left ball joints, control arm. I have not even had the vehicle for a whole year. I did not a warning sign. I went to get new tires and a front alignment, but i was unable to due to, the ball joints and control arm.
I noticed on my 2010 dodge caliber that my frame that attaches just behind the oil pan is really rusty!! i think it is from the placement of the ac drain hose points down right on top of it. It has slowly deteriorate of the years from running ac these last few hot summers. I am very scared to drive my car don't want it to break while driving.
Per my mechanic the ball joints need replaced.having spoken with other caliber owners, it seems fairly unanimous that they have replaced or need to replace the ball joints on their cars not long after the manufacturer warranty expires. Further it is recommended to replace the whole lower control arm.
During routine oil change, repair technician reported severe rust and corrosion of the subframe.i have now read several duplications of this problem and find it essential that the nhtsa takes note of this common and extremely dangerous issue.the subframe element is perhaps the most important part of this vehicle.since my wife drives the 2012 version, i will be having her car's subframe checked immediately.
Suspension cross member frame, struts, bushings & sway bar.took car in for routine oil change. Mechanic inspected car & noticed severe rusting on front cross member. So, bad that my car was not safe to drive. I was told there was a recent recall from dodge that had expired in 2018.i never saw this recall notice. I did get the airbag recall notice & took my car ro dodge to fix in spring 2018. They could have fixed the crossmember at that time. The mechanic also had to replace struts, bushing & suspension stabilizer sway bar as a result of the rusted suspension cross member.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the entire subframe was rusted. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer or independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 186,807.
Takata recall". I had a bad experienceonthe way home from visiting family about a hr from towni was driving had my air on cause it was extremely hot out sidei drove going about 60 to 70adverage then transmission temp light come oncar start slowing downcant go any fasternothing seen gadges going all the way upand nothing foot was all the way down no powerso i pull overscared wat the hell wrong with my transmission wat did i do i had no power shut off my car for 20 minpoint was i was driving on a major highway and for this to happendhad no power to my car i could of got hit couldnt move or do nothingand no one can seem to find the problem to this sulutioncause itdont happend all the time just when it wantsand replacing parts after part and still not fixing the problem has to be a issue i just dont understand what the problem and y does it happend when they say everything working finefrom the dodge place and they cant find the problems to the situation please help if u can
Doors want lock or unlock using the key fob or using the manual push.doors lock you in and takes multiple times before it will unlock to let you out or in the car.
July 03, 2014 the internal electronic throttle was replaced,it is now doing the same thing as then as of december 01, 2016.. Etc light comes on,decrease in acceleration , stumbles in take off, hesitates, have to pull car off road and stop,wait a few minutes to reset and it will continue like nothing has happened.need to check the manufactory warranty on this part.dealership told me they warrant the part for up to 2 years but check with the manufactory. How do i do that and know what the manufactory is?
Right front door swung open during car moving
Recall 2010 dodge caliber- right door lock doesn't work properly
I've had the arm bar and ball joint replaced twice in a year's time, which causes a grinding noise. I've had the brakes replaced three times along with rattle clips, in the last year, with no prevail in changing the noise nor high speed-braking oscillating. A caliper has also been replaced. While sitting at stop lights, the car unpredictably stalls-- i've tried to reproduce the setting to have the issue happen when a technician tests it, but it appears to happen unpredictably. The car has leaked from some entry point to cause the floor boards to be wet, and in the last year, the sun roof seems to be leaking as i have water pouring onto me from the front dome lightt. The water is causing mold, which is not beneficial to the family i drive with. Based on the nhtsa site and the thousands of youtube videos, these are pretty wildly known issues by dodge, despite the lack of complaints on these sites.
"takata recall"my wife and i purchased a vehicle and we thought we got a good deal until the car quickly became a death trap that was so unsafe to drive.the steering would pull too the left and when we went around a bridge on the freeway or any turning of the wheel. We had to stabilize the car because it would almost hop to the left and there would be a lot of traffic regardless on freeway or streets. We told them there was a lapse in the speed and this has just been a nightmare. We already paid almost all the car and we still have our warranty but they want us to pay 400 dollars,what we pay as a car pymt every month.or they said they'd finance the work they do on the car through car finance department. My wife said absolutely not. We have kids and instead of enjoying time in the car,we've spent stressed paying for it since the first week. We've been to the point of so much fear to feeling as though it's an icy day and the roads are wet and so slippery but the problem is... It wasn't even raining or snowing.. Fear of crashing or something breaking. My wife read a lot about the same thing happening with our vehicle. She saw too many people,iust like us and it said recalled, but it said things that have been reported that should be recalled but hasn't been at that time.i'm reporting this because we aren't going to pay to die in a car the mechanic didn't even want to drive far because it wasn't safe!! the mechanic from the same dealership we purchased the carfrom
On october 3rd 2018, i had an accident hitting the car in front of me after being hit from behind. My airbag did not open
Takata recall. My car keeps on blowing the rear tire about every 6-8 months.my steering wheel also shakes/vibrates when driving over 55 mph. The tires are wearing uneven. I have discovered that there is a rear cross member recall for my car which would explain this. I will be taking my car in to be aligned however i would like to know how to get the recall honored before doing so
The front and rear subframe are rotted/rusted to the point it is ready to collapse in half at any given time. There was a warranty extension on the vehicle that expired in dec. 2019 and originally was extended by 5 years in 2017. I do not feel that this is adequate due to the potential hazard this would pose going down the highway at 60mph. Big safety concern and they don't plan on helping in any way shape or form due to being 6 months past their 'extended' warranty. I believe this really needs to be inspected since this subframe issue is known from 3-4 different dodge/chrysler/jeep models and not adequately covered by the manufacturer. Should be a recall, no rust on the vehicle besides the rotted frame. Known issue on these vehicles and not adequately addressed/covered when such a safety concern. More pictures available upon request
The crossmember or engine cradle rusted through causing a lot of creaking noises while being driven. Upon diagnosis it was recommended to be replaced immediately.
Takata recall on hwy 59 4 miles south of fairfax mo a deer ran across hwy and my vehicle split the deer in half and my side airbags did not deploy also my knees were injured and cut from the bottom air bag but no airbag ever hit my upper body. Also a code for fault wor bag deploy was always on with my car.
Front subframe is rusted out with visible holes. Manufacturer only extended warranty and did not issue recall.i just found out and tried to get it repaired but extended warranty is expired and they will not cover costs.tons of owners complaining about this as it is listed as front and rear crossmember corrosion (x69 warranty extension) - 2008-2012 dodge caliber & jeep compass/patriot>tons of owners are furious and trying to get help on this serious issue that can easily result in a catastrophic accident and even death.
Electrical throttle control light has popped up several times and i've noticed it's when it has rained. When this happens, the car slows down and causes forcefully pull over and shut the car off. It doesn't start after the first few tries and eventually does. The car began to overheat after driving it over 60mph for about 20mins. The car has given me the engine coolant temperature warning symbol when this happens, making an ugly almost screeching sound,slows down the car until i can't push the gas any longer causing me to pull over to turn off the car until it restarts again. The car is beginning to over heat after driving it for a long period of time over 20 mins this will began to happen. I've put coolant recently and not sure if there's a hole in the reservoir but i've done what i could to get this fixed. The car jolts after 3rd gear especially going up hill.
Occasionally the vehicle chugs and sputters at stops.twice the vehicle has stalled at stoplights and had to be put back into park and restarted.dealer ran diagnostics, but was unable to duplicate, and no codes were found.
My car just turned off while driving and hasn't started again i have a no bus error on the odometer and i changed the crankshaft sensor and crankshaft position sensor and still won't start but all the lights and locks still work
I've never been in an accident but the driver's headrest still broke. Why did this happen?
Got it from the dealership engine light came on right after i drove off and it's going to be 100 dollars to have them even look at it the parts
This has happened a few different time, but when trying to accelerate from 45mph onto the highway from an on ramp my dodge caliber 2010 started to jerk and wouldn't let me go any faster, which made my car actually decelerate.also there were times when i tried accelerating to pass someone and it just wouldn't go any faster, but there were no jerks.
While turning at low speed car accelerated uncontrollably. Air bags did not deploy in frontal crash. Car caught fire.
Purchased this car four months ago with 79,300 miles on it. Within a couple of days it started acting up, not wanting to start. I went to the advance and they checked the battery, starter, and alternator. Machine said replace battery so i did for $150 with 5 year warranty. Left and within an hour still did not want to start. Seemed like it was prone to doing this while sitting up or down hill and not flat on pavement. It was as if it wanted to start and was making starting noises and it had to catch and then start up. I called the dealership from which i purchased the car and they looked at it no charge and it just would not do it again. Guess what it still does it now and of course the freebies are over because it was no warranty. I did purchase an extended warranty just in case. About a month ago it started jerking i was describing it as over shifting. As i proceeded to come off an exit ramp to merge into traffic which was going 60 mph my car started jerking really bad and my etc light started flashing, very scary i could have gotten hit by oncoming traffic.i slowed to 55 mph and the light went off. Went to the dodge dealership and they said throttle body was so dirty it needed cleaning. I got it cleaned this past friday and guess what was happening by saturday. Went back to the dealership today and told the service advisor to drive it with me in there and it showed out. He speed up on the freeway and the light came back on flashing and we were going so slow he turned on the hazards. Pulled over turned it off and back on and light was off we went back to the dealership and i have to drop it off tomorrow to see if anything can be figured out. I'm sure you guys know the drill. By the way my extended warranty does not cover throttle body assembly go figure. So yeah rough four months and only 83,000 miles on the car now. We need a recall on this model and a few more.
While driving my car my transaxle overheating light will illiminate. My car will slow down and not keep the speed up. I have to pull over until the light goes out then i can continue my driving but it will do it all again 10 miles down the road. This happens about an hour after driving it on the highway at 70 mph i was just on a trip 2 hours from home. In a 30 minute time frame i had to pull over 6 times because of this. I have not taken it to the dealership and it has not been fixed. I have noticed many people are having the same problem why has this not been recalled yet?
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the electronic throttle control light illuminated then the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who stated the throttle body needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was not available.
Started my car this morning and let it run for awhile(5 min) until rpms went down, its 12 degrees outside, i drove through my parking lot maybe 20 ft and throttle warning light came on, i didn't know what it was at first but i researched while letting my car idle it sort of pulsated. When i went to accelerate it would barely move, thank god i was not on the highway as i was about to go to work. I've had nothing but problems with this car since i bought it 2 yrs ago!! i asked the dealership for a safe reliable car, and this is what they found smh!!
My car's speed accelerate/jumps when struggling to get to second gear.
Several times while driving, my car will decide to slow down and when i press the accelerator pedal, there is no power or acceleration. This has happened twice while crossing several lanes of traffic which was very dangerous. I don't get any warning lights on the dashboard, just loss of power. Also, when starting the car, sometimes after i have stopped turning the key, it continues to "start" on its own.
My car started to suddenly slow down on the highway.i have had 4 incidents wherewhen the car is on accelerated speed suddenly slow down. Am still paying loan on the car and i have maintained service on it.i feel i maybe in danger as the car is now a safety hazard.i have researched online and saw that other people have had the same problems. I have contacted dodge corporate twice and was given case number 26243890 on phone and case number 26233972 on email. They say they can't do anything as the car is not on recall. I do not want life lost for it to be recalled.ifthere is already other people with the same problems then dodge should do something before anything bad happened.i have called local dodge dealerand they told me to pay todiagnose my car.please help so dodge to correct this problem before car causes a crash.thank you
While at a stop and not during acceleration, the vehicle begins to sputter and chug as if it is going to stall; sometimes it stalls, but starts right back.other times when accelerating, it jumps before catching and accelerating smoothly.took car to the dealer and they were unable duplicate the complaint and no codes were found.
Driving under normal conditions on a city street while the car was in motion the electronic throttle control light came on the instrument panel and the car began to shudder and drag. I could not accelerate more than 25 mph and the rpms were very high at that low speed. I had to immediately turn off and park the car. After turning off the ignition and waiting a bit i tried to restart it. The etc light remained on and safe operation of the vehicle was not possible.i had to have it towed to a mechanic and serviced. There have been two incidences in 6 months. 3/28/2018, 8/14/2018. The indicator light is for electronic throttle control and the part replaced is the intake manifold.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 25 to 30 mph, the electronic throttle control light illuminated and the vehicle would not accelerate past 5 mph. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 108,000.
When i start my car, it starts just fine and then about 1-2 minutes later the engine check sign will come on followed by a red lighting bold on the dashboard. Once the red lightning bolt comes on either parked or driving in a city street or highway, the car immediately starts making loud noises, shakes uncontrollably and speed reduces, sometimes to the point where it shuts off while i'm still driving on the highway or city street. It sort of starts forcing itself to move while in motion. While the light is still on, if i stop at a red light or stop sign and it's time for me to go or the light is green, when i push the gas paddle the car sort of tries to move with pushes, just as though someone was pushing it while parked and then all of a sudden moves with speed. To resolve it, i have to stop on the side and turn the car off occasionally , wait about 5 minutes and then start it for the car to drive normally once again until the red lightning bolt comes on again. The light comes on whether parked or in motion. At times i'd still be driving the car and when the lightning sign comes on, the car shuts off while still on drive in the middle of traffic. I've taken it to dodge and other mechanics but nobody is able to fix it. It's really unsafe on the road with the sudden stops, pushes and shutting off.
When getting a jump from another car the computer went out had to pay a little under $900 dollars.the struts are also going out.the car is making a rowing noise. Sometimes the car did not have pick up or speed when stepping on accelerator.
While driving home from work the cars speed suddenly decreased and the electronic throttle control light came on. Pulled over safely and restarted the vehicle. Light remained on. Took it to a mechanic and was informed that the throttle body must be replaced. The whole thing must be replaced since it's completely sealed and you cannot access parts inside it. This is a safety issue because the vehicle suddenly lost speed and then it would not accelerate over 30mph. The vehicle only has 70000 miles on it.did some checking online and this is a very common issue with calibers.
Dates & mileage are approximate.i'm not a mechanic and i have no idea which part would be causing the problem.i guessed. This has happened at least 10 times over the past 3 years.my 16 yr old granddaughter recently told me her older caliber did the same thing!this lead me to believe it is a safety/power issue with the model.why would this just be happening to our 2 vehicles?her vehicle was purchased in ga and mine in mi.i do a lot of freeway driving.each time this occurred, i was driving on freeways at 70 mph for extended periods of time.i take an exit.when i depress the accelerator to turn off the exit ramp, the engine completely "bogs down".there is very little power.each time, i have calibrated time for safely pulling out into oncoming traffic, expecting to have normal power.suddenly, i have little to no acceleration and it seems like it may stall out!you can imagine the fear of not being able to clear oncoming traffic in time.the low power continues for about a minute, then resumes normal operation.i have been fortunate enough that no accident has occurred, because it's impossible to get over to the shoulder.actually, this is so dangerous, i can't explain why i haven't had it checked out, besides inconvenience and stupidity.when my granddaughter told me about her car, that really scared me and prompted me to act. I've also come to realize that i'm putting other drivers in danger of injury or death.please let me know asap if there's been a recall or should be one on these vehicles.i have to believe there are many more out there experiencing the same dangerous malfunction and possibly injuries or death.
My vehicle has a manual transmission.in january 2015 the transmission failed and the powertrain was replaced.after that, when shifting, occasionally the engine would rev as if i hadn't taken my foot off the accelerator when depressing the clutch and it was impossible to shift.sometimes the vehicle would speed up on its own and other times it took forever to get the car up to posted speeds.the occasional engine revving became more frequent as the winter wore on as well as the fast/slow acceleration making the car's performance unpredictable and unsafe to drive.i took it to the dealership a second time and they diagnosed "throttle body failure" and replaced it.this cost me $572.68.i have now had the car back only a couple of days, but am unsure if this will happen again. Online there are a lot of complaints about throttle body failure in the dodge caliber.this is a huge safety issue that needs to be addressed before someone is killed or injured by an uncontrollable vehicle.
While driving on i-695 the etc light starts to flash and the car becomes crippled. After restarting, the car is fine for a few days until the light cuts on and off occasionally. Now the etc light stays lit even after restarts. Taking the car to the dealership to see if it is covered by the platinum warranty.
Takata recall". I had a bad experienceonthe way home from visiting family about a hr from towni was driving had my air on cause it was extremely hot out sidei drove going about 60 to 70adverage then transmission temp light come oncar start slowing downcant go any fasternothing seen gadges going all the way upand nothing foot was all the way down no powerso i pull overscared wat the hell wrong with my transmission wat did i do i had no power shut off my car for 20 minpoint was i was driving on a major highway and for this to happendhad no power to my car i could of got hit couldnt move or do nothingand no one can seem to find the problem to this sulutioncause itdont happend all the time just when it wantsand replacing parts after part and still not fixing the problem has to be a issue i just dont understand what the problem and y does it happend when they say everything working finefrom the dodge place and they cant find the problems to the situation please help if u can
I have been having issues with my wipers going on by themselves when i use my turn signals to take either a right or left turn it doesn't seem to matter.it doesn't happen all the time but quite often.
My vehicle is still waiting to be serviced for the recall for the airbags. Also my windshield wipers come on randomly when i turn on my turn signal. This problem has been going on since april of 2015, a month after i got the vehicle.
2010 dodge cailber. Consumer writes in regards tofront windshield problem.*tgwthe consumer stated while driving home, he noticed small cracks in the windshield. Some were straight, but most were curved and some were almost a part circle like the edge of a bubble. The consumer believed the flaws were in the center layer of the glass because the outer surface seemed completely smooth. The cracks could only be seen when one looked through the windshield into the light.the cracks caused refractions of light that hindered the vision of the consumer.the consumer showed the flaws to the service manager at the dealer. They were photographed and sent to chrysler corporation. They agreed that the windshield was flawed. A technician was sent to install a new windshield. One evening while driving home, the consumer noticed the new windshield had thousands of small cracks just like the original one.the vehicle was taken to the dealer the next morning. The consumer was informed that a factory rep. Would need to look at the windshield, since it was already replaced once. Over the next several months, appointments were cancelled with the factory rep. For various reasons.the service manager contacted the consumer and informed him an appointment had been re-scheduled for the following week.however, the day before the appointment, it was cancelled again.when the consumer finally met the factory rep. He pointed out that the cracks were in the outerlayer of the glass because he could roll a fine ball point pen across them and he could feel a drag as it crossed the crack.then he stated it was caused by gravel.the consumer stated it was impossible for gravel or anything else to impact the glass that would cause tiny cracks without causing chips or pits.the factory informed the consumer there was nothing more he could do.
The contact owns a 2010 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while adding air to the rear driver's side tire, the front driver's side aluminum air valve shot out and caused the tire to deflate immediately. The contact took the vehicle to an local mechanic, who stated that the failure was a common occurrence. The vehicle was repaired.the approximate failure mileage was 57,000.
Takata recall. My car keeps on blowing the rear tire about every 6-8 months.my steering wheel also shakes/vibrates when driving over 55 mph. The tires are wearing uneven. I have discovered that there is a rear cross member recall for my car which would explain this. I will be taking my car in to be aligned however i would like to know how to get the recall honored before doing so
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