We found the following complaints for DODGE CALIBER (2007)
Read complaints for DODGE CALIBER (2007)
This problem occurs when the vehicle is stationary and in motion. The vehicle will start to freak out by losing all of its gauges and controls, also the air bag, electrical, abs and check engine will come on. There was no warning signs when this initially occurred.i took it to a dealer and they claimed the it was the tipm (total integrated power module) and its super common with dodge products. I was informed that there is a recall on other dodge products for this very issue but not the caliber. I do not understand this nor how if this is a problem on other models from the same year it can be covered under warranty but not for this car.
The contact owns 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that after sliding on black ice, the vehicle crashed into a pole and the air bags failed to deploy. A police report was filed. The contact suffered from a concussion, chest and neck pain. The vehicle was taken to a yard where the insurance deemed the vehicle destroyed. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 109,263.
Takata recall i have a 2007 dodge caliber and the airbag light want go out and i need to know about this light and the recall for the airbags in these car. Thank you. There is nothing that have happen right now but i don't want anything to happen i need this fix before something do happen.
My airbag light came on recently and it verbs and flashes when i make a left turn. At times when i make a right turn it turns off after a while as long as i don't turn the steering wheel to the left. When i have the vehicle parked now after time the airbag light stays on now. It use to go off but not no more. Please help i know this is unsafe for me and my family to drive with a airbag light on.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was stationary, the air bag indicator illuminated without warning. The contact stated that the failure was intermittent. In addition, the contact stated that the accelerator pedal traveled to the floorboard of the vehicle. The contact restarted the vehicle to correct the failure. The dealer and manufacturer were not made aware of the failure. The vin and failure mileage were unknown.
My husband was driving and i was the passenger. 12/23/15. The car was a 2007 dodge caliber. Approx 80,000 miles on it. No prior accidents. A car turned into driver side. My husband was not hurt. Both cars going approx 10 miles an hour. I was hit with air bag. I received a broken rib, new bridge completely knocked out(or should i say in.). My back, neck, ankle still give me a lot of pain today. My body bruised head to toe. Concussion.
My airbag did not go off on my car want to know why the hit was bad an nothing went off there been no recalls so now i think something should be done i am lucky i am not hurti hydrated planed on the water and hit a poll the police officers couldn't believe it didn't go off what can i do and hope no one else get hurt
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. Upon starting the vehicle, the air bag indicator remained illuminated. The contact also stated that the front passenger side headlight failed to illuminate. The vehicle was taken to barbera autoland (7810 e roosevelt blvd, philadelphia, pa 19152 (215) 333-3700) for diagnostic testing of the headlight. The vehicle was not taken to an independent mechanic or dealer for the air bag warning indicator failure. The manufacturer was notified by voicemail and the contact was awaiting a callback. The failure mileage was unknown.
Takata recall- my air bag light stays on all the time, also i had to replace the electronic control module, it was completely full of corrosion. All of the front and back suspention had to be replaced, all control arms upper and lower, struts, the whole thing. The transmission will not shift properly, causing the engine to stall. I have had the suspention fixed, and the electrical replaced. The transmission fluid changed but mechanic could not find out what the problem is. It does not shift properly when on highway driving, and will not down shift when stopping, car stalls out. The electrical module would not put out enough power to run the lights, wipers, fan or radio. This car is a real piece of crap, dodge should be ashamed of themselves for even putting it on the market. We want action, for what we paid for this junk.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 45 mph, another vehicle crashed into the contact's vehicle. The air bags failed to deploy. The contact sustained head, neck, and shoulder injuries that required medical attention. A police report was filed. The vehicle was destroyed and towed to a police lot. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 154,000. The vin was not available.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact statedwhile driving at approximate speeds of 45 mph, another vehicle crashed into the passengers side of his vehicle at speeds of 20 mph. The air bags did not deploy upon impact. The contact was injured and was transported to the hospital via ambulance. The highway patrol arrived on scene and a police report was filed accordingly. The manufacturer was contacted but did not provide any assistance at that time. The contact was awaiting a response from the manufacturer. The failure and current mileages were 50,000
The contact owned a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at approximately 25 mph, the contact depressed the brake pedal. A bottle was underneath the brake pedal, which caused the contact to crash into the rear of a truck. The air bags failed to deploy and the seat belt failed to retract. The contact sustained unknown injuries that required medical attention. A police report was filed. The vehicle was destroyed. The approximate failure mileage was 114,000. The vin was unavailable.
I had an accident on friday, january 18, 2015. The car in front of me put on brakes, and i was a distance away from the car in front of me when i put on brakes as well. However, when i attempted to brake, it would not brake normally as a car should. Also, there was no anti-lock brake that kicked in. In addition, the airbags did not deploy in this vehicle. My car is totaled. Thankfully, i was able to walk away. There is something wrong with the brakes on this vehicle. I always felt like that. However, the experience that i had with this accident was confirmation for me.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the air bag light stayed on indicating that there was a failure in the air bag system.if there was a crash the air bags would not deploy. The vehicle was taken to the dealer numerous times for the failure and they were unable to duplicate or repair the failure.they have also replaced the air bags and the clock spring previously but the light has illuminated again. The contact stated that the light remained illuminated for six to eight weeks. The failure mileage was 18,000 and the current mileage was 36,000.
Had to replace alternator and my airbag light continually comes on.my sister has the same problem with her dodge and hers is a different model..
The first signs of a problem were a clicking sound when turning the steering wheel.it did not happen every time, and i did nothing about it until december, when a portion of a strap with electrical wire embedded began to protrude from the upper steering column.it soon began to be a nuisance as the portion grew longer and would catch on the steering position adjustment knob.i grew alarmed when the airbag light came on, and took it to the dealership.they said it was a broken clockspring, and they had to order the part.it cost me over $300 to get this repaired, and now i see toyota is doing a recall for this exact same thing, a spiral cable assembly that becomes damaged from turning the steering wheel. It is a poor design. Toyota is replacing this with a better part, but i do not think dodge did that, and i had to pay to get this replaced.i am concerned it could happen again, and believe there should be a recall by dodge also.
Vehicle was involved in a collision in which the front of the vehicle was totally destroyed. The drivers side airbag in the steering wheel did not deploy at all and the driver was injured by the steering wheel. Both driver and passenger were wearing thier safety belts and both were injured by the safety belts with large deep contusions and bruises.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 30 mph, the vehicle hydroplaned and crashed into a telephone pole. The air bags failed to deploy. There were no injuries and a police report was filed. The frame of the vehicle was severely damaged. The dealer and manufacturer were not contacted. The vehicle was towed to a friend's home. The vehicle was not diagnosed. The failure mileage was 68,000. The vin was unknown.
I was involved in a collision, my front into a rear quarter panel. My car was a total per the insurance company yet my airbags never deployed. I only suffered minor injuries to my head, shoulder and neck, but had my airbags worked, i believe my injuries would have been a lesser degree.
I was driving my car an my air bag light popped up on my dash . It beeps and goes off an on when i turn , i went to mechanic he says its something dodge needs to fix . I ran into a ditch avoiding hitting another car an my air bags didnt deploy i was going 55 . I think dodge needs to do a recall and fix this problem its several people complaining about this so evidently its a manufacturing problem .
Dt*:the contact stated while driving 43mph, the vehicle was struck in the left front end which caused the vehicle to rollover twice and the airbags did not deploy.there was no pre-braking prior to impact.although the occupants were wearing seatbelts, minor injuries were sustained.the police were on the scene and a report was taken.due to the extensive damage, the vehicle was towed to a salvage yard to await inspection by the insurance adjustor.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While exiting a parking lot, the vehicle accelerated without warning into a busy street, crossed over train tracks, and crashed into a train. The passenger side of the vehicle went under the train. The air bags failed to deploy. There were no injuries and a police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The dealer and manufacturer were not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 163,000. *dt*dt *dt
My passenger side air bag randomly disarms and my driver's side seatbelt comes undone often.sometime takes 2-3 times of trying to fasten seat belt to get it to secure.cruise control has also gone out.love my car, but not happy with all the problems popping up.it is only 4 years old.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving 65 mph in the right hand lane, the contact slammed on the brakes to avoid an animal in the road.all four wheels locked and the vehicle began to skid to the right.she attempted to turn the wheel to the left to avoid striking the embankment, but the vehicle continued to skid.she attempted to turn the wheel again, which caused the vehicle to roll over once before finally coming to a stop.there were no injuries and none of the air bags deployed.a police report was filed.the vehicle was towed and could possibly be destroyed.the current and failure mileages were 68,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving 65 mph, another vehicle crashed into the rear passenger side door of the contact's vehicle.the crash caused the front driver side of the contact's vehicle to crash into a wall.the air bags failed to deploy.the vehicle was destroyed and the driver suffered a whiplash.a police report was filed.as of july 25, 2007, the dealer has not inspected the vehicle.the current and failure mileages were 17,000.
This car has had the driver airbag warning light on in the dash for more than 20,000 miles.i do not know if they are "takata air bags or not. Also, the driver rear taillight has filled with water. I have been the sole owner of this car. Now thedash lights are flickering off & on when lights are turned on. The caliber now has 96,000 miles on it . Thank you in advance for any answers.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 40 mph, the air bag warning light remained illuminated and the horn failed to function. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 135,000.
Seat belt warning light would not go off and horn quit working at all times. Malfunctioning clock spring
Our 2007 dodge caliber has a airbag warning light indicator that stays on continuously and now it is going on and off intermittently. I took it into dodge dealer and they said it's not under warranty. So we took the car to an auto repair facility that said it is a dangerous and expensive repair and that dodge should take care of it because it is a serious safety issue. What is our next step to resolve this issue?
The car would not start (lights worked, but engine would not turn over).after replacing the throttle cable and box, as well as some broken wiring, the car still would not start.the mechanic then towed the vehicle to a dodge dealership, where the computer was reset.the car ran for another week after it was first "fixed," and then again did not start (same problem as before).additionally, the light to indicate that the air bags were not functioning turned on prior to the vehicle not starting.this is more frustrating because we have had extensive issues with this car (replaced all tie rods, bushings, control arms, have a broken door from the hinge breaking, and had multiple tires wearing unevenly due to the car's suspension problems) already, and have sunk well over $6000 in repairs this year alone.
I swerved for deer and when i did i crashed my car and rolled it and airbags did not deploy
Horn and airbag both failed making the vehicle unsafe.dodge refuses to fix the problem.
My wife was in an accident today in her 2007 dodge caliber sxt. She was traveling about 35mph and another vehicle slid across the road in front of her and she hit the side of that truck with the front of her car. It done a significant amount of damage. It busted the front clip off the car and you could see the metal bumper behind the front clip which was severely bent toward the engine and did bust the radiator but no air bag deployment happened. She did recipe some bruising on her neck and shoulder from the seatbelt.
Vehicle was involved in frontal collision with run off tire from a trailer being pulled by a pickup truck. Frontal driver side received damage to electrical wiring harness which shut down onboard computer system. Upon impact the vehicle seized operation and shut down air bag deployment. Steering control was lost due to half shaft joint was sheered apart.
My son drove my car one night and he said he didn't like the steering because it act like ilose and tires about to fall off i told him i know cause it was eating up the out side of tires fast to wear wires were seen on both sides of the front tires and later eveny son had a wreck and total out car on the seen where the wreck happen it didn't make sense to me and my son didn't have his seat beat on and it threw h out and i believe iif he did it would of killed him he don't remember nothing cause i think it put him in shock i have not received the police report but i have taking pictures and i do know there was a alot rust underneath i only had the car for two month the car is at a salvage place and i can't get it and i am going to have to pay for it i just think something was not right on the steering and supention it was on hwy on a straight away
I was involved in an auto accident . I was not at fault but i was t-boned and had the entire drivers side of my 2007 dodge caliber smashed in. Not one air bag deployed.the car comes standard with pressure sensitive seats and side curtain air bags but they did not work. I had to be taken to the hospital. My head was slammed into the drivers side window and the window got broken.the car was only four months old.
Air bag light comes on and off.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving 50 mph, the contact attempted to answer a cell phonecall and crashed into a telephone pole.the front driver's side air bag failed to deploy.the vehicle will be taken to the dealer for repair.the driver sustained injuries to the head, chest, and neck.the failure and current mileages were 38,082. Updated 09/04/08 updated 09/09/08.
I purchased a 2007 dodge caliber i late spet of 2007 and te car was in fact used and checked by mechanics prior to sell.my first prblems started when the struts on the vechile started to leak causing several brake jobs tob needed because the mechanics at dodge failed to realize that this leakage was causing damage tomy pads..on march 30 2010 while traveling at about 60mph on a poorly lighted road, i attempted toavoid a object in the road and upon moving into the other lane the car began to spin out and the car rolled over,my car cleared two lanes of traffic and at least 50 feet of median before it stopped rolling rightbfre hitting south bound traffic-- a blessng -- and as i turnd over and over my airbags never deployed,ever i had on previous occasion brought to dodge attetion that my airbag sensor goes on and off randomly on the passanger side and they replaced the sensor which did not fix anything, my car is totaledan my air bags dont go off.unacceptable
My passenger side air bag light goes on and off indicating a failure. This light will at random go on and off.
Passenger's side airbag disarms itself at random with or without occupant in psgr seat. Dealer checked and calibrated seat sensor to no avail. Dealer replaced airbag control module (ocm) and vehicle seems to be fixed.
Passenger'sside airbag disabled itself randomly.
- the contact stated that while drivingthe 2007 dodge caliber with 7460 failure mileage at 10 mph, the vehicle was broadsided on the front driver's side doorat35 to 40 mph.the front driver's side air bag did not deploy.the vehicle was towed to the body shop. The vehicle had not been repaired.
I purchased a 2007 dodge caliber i late spet of 2007 and te car was in fact used and checked by mechanics prior to sell.my first prblems started when the struts on the vechile started to leak causing several brake jobs tob needed because the mechanics at dodge failed to realize that this leakage was causing damage tomy pads..on march 30 2010 while traveling at about 60mph on a poorly lighted road, i attempted toavoid a object in the road and upon moving into the other lane the car began to spin out and the car rolled over,my car cleared two lanes of traffic and at least 50 feet of median before it stopped rolling rightbfre hitting south bound traffic-- a blessng -- and as i turnd over and over my airbags never deployed,ever i had on previous occasion brought to dodge attetion that my airbag sensor goes on and off randomly on the passanger side and they replaced the sensor which did not fix anything, my car is totaledan my air bags dont go off.unacceptable
While accelerating from driveway the radio stopped working. Then the next day while pulling from driveway notification beep went off and lights on display flashed. About 3 weeks ago i had to replace battery. The left drivers side light has been going on and off intermittently. It also starts hard frequently. I have read online that all of these are indicators that the tipm is beginning to have issues, which is a common problem for 2007 dodge calibers and will cost up to $1500 to repair.
Elec locks, windshield wiper(rear), radio, clock, hazard lights, air conditioner, heater would not work and "nofuse" message on dash.
I was slowing down to stop at an intersection and heard a thump on the bottom of the car.as i started to pull forward the steering was very difficult and the i heard a whining sound from the right front tire.i was about a mile from my repair shop so i had my brother follow me with his emergency flashers and drove slowly to the shop where i found out that the subframe was completely rotted through.in the last year, i have had to replace upper and lower control armsand the alternator.
The turn signal stayed on, everything electric shut off, then when i put the car in park and took out my key, the car was still running!! this happened twice and no one can figure out what could possibly be wrong. Then my check engine light went on. The diagnostic test read p0708. I was told i cannot simply fix this sensor, that i would need a whole new transmission. My car is 4 years old and has 53,000 miles on it! how could i need a new transmission, who can afford a new transmission!? the car has been extremely well taken car of, normal oil changes, inspections, i just bought 2 new front tires! this is unbelievable.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, the electrical warning light illuminated and the ability to acceleratefailed. The vehicle was restarted and resumed to normal. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and they were unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000. The vin was not available.
My car started making a noise and idling high last year.it started cutting itself off and eventually it wouldn't start.i replaced the alternator and battery. Now less than a year later 2014, the low lights don't work and it is starting to make the same noise and cut itself off.now i'm being told its the total integrated power module.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 25 mph, the accelerator pedal became stuck without warning. The contact also mentioned that the windshield wipers, defroster, and radio became inoperable. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the failure could not be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The vin was not included in nhtsa campaign number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.updated 05/17/16*ljthe consumer stated the crossbar was repaired.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 65 mph, the electronic throttle control warning indicator illuminated continuously. In addition, the vehicle decelerated from 65 mph to 5 mph, and the vehicle lost power. The vehicle was able to restart, but failed to operate until minutes later. The contact called john elway chrysler at 970-281-4687 and was advised to bring in the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle was not under warranty. The approximate failure mileage was 154,000.
Car stopped while driving several times and then would t start at all. Replaced fuse and it ran for a little bit and then wouldn't accelerate over 40. After getting back home engine wouldn't start at all or it would take almost 30 minutes to try and it would sometimes fire up. Now it will not start at all. Starter is new and theonly other thing we can think is maybe electrical. That and the lack of acceleration are major problems and it needs to be addressed!
While the vehicle was under warranty, the rear wiper and the radio stopped functioning normally.the wiper did not work at all, and the radio was losing the sound when the engine was running but was normal when on acc. Dealer re flashed the tipm and said if it ever happened again, i should disconnect the battery and hold the leads together for about five minutes and it should function normally again.a few months later, the rear wiper stopped and the radio began to fade out once again. I disconnected the battery as instructed but to no avail. Both dealers i took my vehicle to have gone out of business. The nearest dealer is over 200 miles away. I have lived with this problem now for two years. Now, mysteriously, the rear wiper has begun to function once again all by its self. The radio?.....not at all.i have been told that the tipm is probably at fault. I suggested that to the mechanic while my vehicle was still under warranty but i was assured that there was nothing wrong with the tipm so dodge would not replace the unit. This is the second time a dodge component of mine had failed while under warranty and dodge would not replace the unit. Dodge would wait until after my vehicle(s) were out of warranty and at that point i was told the unit(s) needed replacement. Is this some kind of scam that automobile dealers run?i feel that dodge should replace my tipm at no cost to me since i specifically noted this issue while the vehicle was still under warranty.
Low beam headlight on passenger side will not turn on but the high beam works fine. Have checked wiring and fuses and it seems to be the tipm.took into a shop and they said that it is the tipm telling the light not to turn on so in other words its a bad tipm. I was made aware that the part would be close to $1200. I've researched this issue online and i see that it is a very common issue. I am now starting to have issues with what i think is a bearing gone bad, still trying to determine this.today as i was almost home, my charge system light came on.when i got home, so turned car off and let it sit a few minutes, turned the car back and no issues.the 2007 dodge caliber seems to have issues.i wrote to dodge about the headlamp issues with no resolution or that they acknowledge there is an issue.from reading the forums today, it seems my lights or issues may get worse and possibly loose my life or cause a horrible wreck before all of this over.dodge needs to take the responsibility for all of these issues and recall them so we are not out the huge sums of money that is required to fix this.i am currently unemployed and no unemployment compensation as of yet, i am afraid my once reliable car will just quit on me one day when i least expect or cause lose of life.
The tipm has caused me to lose my dashboard lights, throw out error codes saying key in ignition after it was removed which then prevented me from locking door in shady neighborhood. Drained battery overnight so was stranded for hours before aaa could come. Now the left low beam headlight only is out. Bulb replaced without any affect. Online chatter seems to indicate these tipm was poorly designed and all will fail eventually.
While driving home from the airport on the highway, my car shut down unexpectedly.my electronic throttle light along with my check engine light came on.my power steering and power brakes seemed not to function as i had to muscle the car to the side of the road.thank goodness it was late at night and traffic was at a minimum.the car sputtered so bad it shut down on the road after i pulled over.after about 15 minutes, i started the car and limped it home.couldn't get the car to do more than 10mph.used my flashers the entire way home.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 40 to 50 mph, all of the lights on the instrumental panel illuminated and the engine began to lose power before there was an increase in the engine rpms to 8,000. The vehicle then began to suddenly accelerate and when the brakes were engaged, the smart braking system activated. As a result, the vehicle fish tailed. The contact lost control of the vehicle, but was able to maneuver to the side of the road. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, but offered no assistance because the vehicle was not included in the recall associated with nhtsa campaign id number 10v234000 (vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal) and the warranty expired. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 88,000. The consumer stated around 30,000 he began to experience major electrical problem. The lights, car alarm, power windows and power locks were all affected. The radio, horn and led panels were having minor issues.the vehicle was still under warranty, so therefore the dealer fixed the vehicle in a timely fashion. The vehicle performed as designed up until 50,000 miles when the problems returned. However, only the power locks and car alarm were affected. The vehicle was no longer warranty and since they were minor, the consumer learned to just live with. However, on august 4, 2011 as the consumer was driving, the vehicle suddenly went haywire. The instrument panel was blinking on and off, the dome lights were flashing, the radio shut off and the brakes stopped functioning. The vehicle the accelerated out of control and the consumer lost control of the vehicle. The abs light illuminated and the vehicle started braking itself to compensate for the acceleration. The vehicle then fish tailed as the consumer was trying to make a left turn. Updated 09/29/11. Jb
I was driving at night time and my left side lowbeam headlight went out. Then briefly after the right side. I put my highbeams on to finish my trip home and then right before i made it home they both went out. Upon having the vehicle diagnosed it would be a $1000 part plus labor known as the tipm. My friend has his own garage and he jumped power from my foglights. My headlights now work but he said he won't be long until other things start failing. Now my dash lights went out 2 weeks ago while i was on the interstate. I immediately pulled over and tried turning the car off and on and nothing. So i turned on my hazard flashers and drove 25 miles home with no dash lights. They will flicker on and off so rapidly i turned my dimmer switch the whole way down so it doesn't distract me while driving. Apparently the tipm in these cars is a widely known issue after very little research i found over thousands of failed units in people's vehicles. Dodge should be liable for this mess!
I purchased this car used from a dealership due to the fact that i have an hour drive to and from work and it appeared to have great gas mileage.within my first two weeks of ownership the starter was stuck engaged as i drove and caught fire.this i replaced knowing with age, starters and alternators die.a month after servicing the starter, i was driving on the interstate at a speed of 67mph in heavy traffic when a lightening bolt (electronic throttle control sensor light) flashed and the car jerked as if it were to stall.i contacted my local dodge dealer who informed me that it probably was the throttle body and that i might as well drive the car for a bit because the light was not staying lit.every since then the light has flashed on atleast once a month with the car violently jerking as to stall.i started the car last week and the idle was miserable so figured the throttle body had gone. Took the car to the local dealership to read codes on the pc. Code was for the throttle body.the throttle body was replaced by a certified dealership mechanic.within 30 miles and 30mins after leaving the garage the car wasjerking to stall as before but the light was not on.seem to be a serious problem considering stall on interstate at those speeds and hit by a semi would cause instant death.the value of my car is no longer high but you can guarantee the loan and payments are. I am a preschool teacher and make a very small income.took car instantly back to dealership but i know they will find nothing, charge to much, and send me on my way with a death sentence.seems as though dodge/chrysler has decided that as long as no deaths it is ok to carry on with this refusal to admit that they made a bad product.how about robbing! all i want is my car fixed but of course they will not admit anything.suppose i will have to call the news, fax the ceo's, and die .
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 60 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. In addition, the electronic throttle control warning light was illuminated on the instrument panel and the vehicle would decelerate independently. The vehicle was inspected by an independent mechanic who advised that the alternator needed to be replaced. The dealer was contacted and the part was ordered.the vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the headlights failed to illuminate. Additionally, the brake lights remained illuminated while driving. The contact that the driver's and passenger's side ball joints and tie rods were replaced several times at brandywine chrysler jeep dodge ram (3807 kirkwood hwy, wilmington, de 19808). The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 43,000.
Left low beam cut out while driving. I replaced the bulb, still not working. Next day, abs, esp,brake, tractioncontrol lights illuminated. I checked all fuses and found nothing. I replaced all fuses just to be safe, still nothing. I called the dealership to ask what the problem could be. I mentioned the low beam and he immediately said that the tipm needs to be replaced. He stated that he had replaced 3 of the same model that month. After being told the cost of the repair, $ 1,200, i was upset. This is a costly repair. There are numerous complaints found on the internet, especially the dodge forums, with these same issues. Many people believe that this is a safety issue and it really is. I have not had the part replaced, but after reading a few complaints of the right low beam also failing, i will not drive this car at night or during adverse weather conditions. I really feel that we as consumers should not be required to pay for a part or its replacement, when the car was built with faulty equipment. Hopefully, dodge will admit this and issue a recall for the tipm before some gets hurt or even worse.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at very low speeds and depressing the brake pedal, the abs would erroneously activate causing the braking distance to be extended. The contact also indicated that the check engine sensor light illuminated. The dealer was unable to diagnose the cause of the failures. In addition, the contact experienced various electrical failures. The driver side window would open, but would not roll up to close allowing rain to enter into the vehicle. Also, the front passenger side headlight would not operate. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired for the electrical failures. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 156,000.updated 12/30/14the consumer was involved in accident and the vehicle was totaled. Updated 01/27/15
The throttle light came on and now my car is wont pick up speed only 10mph and its puttering and jerking. So i replaced the throttle body unit and did a relearn on the car and its still acting funky. I saw its a recall on the 2007 dodge cablier other ppl are complaining about this same problem .. Its very unsafe to drive a car like this with my family
While driving on the highway in the dark both of my low beam lights went out leaving me with high beams only. Have found out like numerous other caliber owners that my tipm needs replaced due to corrosion and that all the wiring needs checked for corrosion as well. Have been told this is a common occurrence with the dodge caliber and there is no recall. Since i do not have any warranty left on my vehicle i will be paying for this on my own if i choose to fix it. Since i drive approximately 100 miles round trip to work 5 days a week and am having health issues that require me to travel to the doctor frequently, i will have to find a way to get the money to fix this issue as it is not safe to drive on the highway with no low beam and i can't adjust my work schedule to be able to only drive in the day light. I was wondering how i was going to afford to have any christmas for my family before this due to having serious health issues and now i have to figure out how to pay for a part that should be recalled on top of that.
My car has had electrical issues and most all the calibers do also has transmission issues which has had multiple complaints dodge refuses to answer or fix any of the cars or issue recalls they have been made well aware if you check forums as well you can see the difficult times other people have had and the dangerous situations
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 30 mph, the engine stalled without warning. The failure occurred three times and failed to start on each occasion. As a result, the vehicle was towed each time to an independent mechanic where the link wire and the alternator were both replaced. On a separate occasion, the vehicle was taken to the dealer, who updated the computerized system but the failure persisted. The vehicle had not been repaired for most recent failure. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 116,000.
On my way home from work i stopped at a light and my car jerked and acted as though it was about to shut off and my check engine light came on and then the car would not accelerate very well.i went back to my work and had the mechanic check it (i work at a school transportation) and the light said it was the crankshaft position sensor so i got it replaced and it did nothing so we went ahead and replaced thr camshaft as well and it worked for a week or so then started off and on.my headlight also stopped working and i replaced it 3 times before wondering what the heck! i just recently was cited a ticket due to the light and since i was not able to fix it i had my license suspended and was driving without knowing and ended up getting pulled over again but instead of explaining that my car sucks i was arrested and put in jail for a couple hours so now i have two court dates coming up one for my fix it ticket not getting fixed and another for driving on suspended because of not getting the part fixed so it is starting to become a major issue for my whole life in general.my car dies at almost every stop light and if i go over 2rpm it will not acclerate.i had to replace major parts such as; motor mounts, struts, pistons, calipers, brakes, batteries, etc in just the short time ive owned the vehicle which was very hard for me since i dont make much money.the car is wired very odd and my father is my go to mechanic but he couldnt figure out some of the parts.i dont have the finances for the tpim and figured it would be recalled by now since its a major problem with most calibers so i stuck it out but now i dont know whats going to happen.as of today, august 24, 2015, my car is not running since it lost all power last night, first the radio stopped, then the ac stopped blowing, then the lights that work started to dim, and then it just died. Please help!!!
Turn signals start to fail, even with the faulty bulb replaced newly replaced bulb does not work. Brought the car to the dealership and diagnosed the tipm (totally integrated power module) is faulty. Checked the internet and forums for similar issues other owners have worse issues such as headlights randomly going out, stalling at highway speeds, windshield wipers failing... That they are encountering due to a faulty tipm which can be a safety issue.the clockspring failure causes the airbag warning light to come on which signifies that the airbag will not work when it needs to. The cruise control system intermittently works which is also affected by the clock spring.both lower control arms bushings (left and right) have been replaced twice due to wear. Seems excessive wear between 58k and 80k miles with mostly highway driving on smooth roads.
The left headlight low-beam does not work. Have been stopped 3 times by police for warnings. Have replaced light bulb with new bulb and it still only works on high-beam. Took to auto service center, they also tried to install a new bulb, but it to did not work. Tried tip of removing both battery cables and holding them together for 10 minutes to reset computer code. That also did not work. From searching the internet on this problem, i find that there are many of these vehicals with similar problems. I think these should be recalled by chrysler because it causes a safety issue when driving at night or during the day when it is raining.
Have had several batteries, starters and alternators replaced over the past 3 years. Car has 140,000 miles on it. Recently the engine light went on. Now when it rains, the dashboard warning lights go off like a christmas tree with the the warning bell sounding. Car won't go over 20mph. If i turn it off and then on again (sometimes after a few tries) it starts up fine. Like the car but can't afford whatever is wrong to fix it.
When returning home from the store it was near dusk.we turned on the headlights and headed home.along the way cars were flashing their lights at us.i checked to confirm the headlights were switched on, which they were.once we got home, we noticed both headlights were out even though they were switched on.luckily we only had a mile from to travel to get home or this could have been a very dangerous situation that could have ended in a crash.later i removed the headlight bulbs to see if they had burned out. (not likely since they both went out at the same time.)both bulbs appeared fine and i reinstalled them.i turned on the headlights and they both illuminated.a couple hours later, i went to leave again but after turning on the headlights neither of them illuminated.after some research i found that it's the tipm failing in the vehicle.i've also read that chrysler installed the fuse box under the hood where it's exposed to the elements and this is possibly why so many caliber owners are seeing this issue.i looked through the last 50 complaints on nhtsa and 20 of them are for this exact same problem.if 40% of the complaints on a vehicle are for the same issue, shouldn't chrysler do the right thing and offer free replacement?we shouldn't have to wait until people die in a car crash before chrysler does something.this creates a very hazardous situation if the driver of the vehicle doesn't realize the lights are not working and they're driving in rain or fog.others drivers cannot see them as well and it's only a matter of time before somebody gets killed because of this issue.
I first lost the low beam on my driver side head light. I replaced the bulb only to have the same problem. Later that day i was stopped at a red light, my car then stalled out. I put it in park and restarted it. The check engine light started to flash there was little to no power. I managed to pull my car off the road put it into park then restart it again. The check engine light stayed on but was not flashing. I got my car home. I count my blessing that my car didn't die while going at highway speeds. Or lose all the lights and cause an crash. I'm worried to drive it now but i have no choice if i want to keep working. This is a very common issue from what i have read. The totally integrated power module needs to be recalled before it kills people. It is unsafe and causes the car the become a death trap for the driver and all the people around it.
At first, the service engine soon light would begin flashing when i hit the accelerator pedal and i lost power. Could not go over 35 mph. Then by the time i made it off the highway, the light stayed flashing all the time. And i have not been able to regain proper power at all. It uses a ton of gas and when sitting in park, if i push the break pedal, there is a clicking noise under where the shifter is located. With losing power on the highway, other traffic and myself were in danger. I looked online and many many ppl have the same issue with no luck of fixing the problem even after hundreds of dollars at the mechanic. Also, many have filed complaints and have gotten no where and very negative responses when calling dodge. I dont have hundreds of dollars for repairs as i am on disability. Hope this has became a recall issue and i dont have a huge out of pocket expense. I travel to drs alot
This is my third time that this car has not started. For no reason with a new battery it won't turn on and has no power at all. No power to the lights, locks, radio or dash. Now it has low power and when it's turned off with no key in the ignition it's making a ticking noise every 30 seconds. I have to wait again to get this jumped and i want out of this vehicle. I've replaced the battery twice in this car within 10 months and the fuse box doesn't work for the right headlight. I don't know how to get out of this car without the dealership coming after me.
All four turning signals and emergency flashers stopped working. Tipm error.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 45 mph, the contact noticed that the anti skid and abs warning lights illuminated without warning. All of the instrument panel lights also illuminated. The contact drove the vehicle to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the front and rear ends of the vehicle needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact spoke with the manufacturer who approved the repairs performed by another dealer. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 140,000. Updated 02/12/16*lj
Engine warning lights flash, warning check engine light disappear, reappear at will, wont start, system failure, loss of power, speed limit acute loss of power, stalling of engine while at freeway speeds, stalling out at 35-40 mph speeds, noise at gas pedal.
I have a 2007 caliber r/t i'm at about 183,000km. Earlier this week all the lights in my cluster started flashing, and the chimes started sounding. My car went into what they call "limp" mode where the car shuts down and the fastest you can go is 60km/hr on a flat roadway (and it has to build up to that speed). I was told that the connections to my tipm (total integrated power module) had become corroded and that i would have to have it replaced ($1000 for the part, then there's labour on top of that).on top of that i was told that they would have to check all the wiring to ensure that all the corrosion was taken care of, which would probably cost a whole bunch of money seeing as there is a whole lot of wiring that would have to be checked. The service manager also told me that chrysler/dodge is aware of this issue and that it is all due to faulty design. Why should i have to replace such an integral part after the length of time that i've had the car. I could understand something like a general wear and tear part going, but to have to fork out over $1500 dollars to repair just seems ridiculous. The timp (fuse box) in the calibers fail frequently (this is a safety design flaw that needs recalled) the cost of the timp is not cheap!!!!!!!
March 13, 2009, i purchased a used dodge caliber 2007. Few weeks later, i starter hearing noise which kept increasing in intensity as the days went by. I thought it was probably a loose or bad serpentine belt tensioner or idler. On may 17, while driving the car back home, the abs, air bag, battery, and check engine lights turn on. At home in the driveway, with engine running, when i opened the hood, i noticed sparks around the alternator area. I thought it was the serpentine belt touching a loose metal that was creating the sparks. Today, may 16, i removed the alternator and noticed the alternator windings arced and melted the copper wire windings and the aluminum housing. I have the alternator and pictures readily available for your evaluation. I did a google search and discovered that other dodge cavalier owners have experience the same premature catastrophic failure of the alternator. This catastrophic failure is very unsafe and could have resulted in fire, explosion, accident, and fatalities. There are no known recalls related to this dangerous alternator failure.
Had to replace alternator and my airbag light continually comes on.my sister has the same problem with her dodge and hers is a different model..
The passenger's side low beam and the passenger side brake light have gone out. High beam, reverse, & turn signals are fine. I took the vehicle in and was told the totally integrated power module (tipm) must be replaced at a cost of over $1,000. This is a know issue to dodge; a design flaw due to exposing the electronic equipment to the elements by placing it in the engine bay in a housing that not water tight.i've been told the with the caliber it is not a question of if, but when the tipm will go out. This creates a safety hazard because any electrical system could go out while driving. Dodge should either fix this, recall the part, or reimburse owners that have already had to pay to fix the issue.
There is a known issue with the tipm in these vehicles and they have been recalled in other models with the same tipm when this module fails the headlights stop working and there is no repair other then paying dodge to fix it and they want 1000$ they have recalled other models of chrysler jeeps and dodges which have this same module but not the caliber. I believe this should be addressed. My lights failed when i was driving at night. So this is a major issue.
Four four months now my car has intermittently experienced electrical failures including stuttering, dashboard lights flashing on and off, windshield wipers coming on their own and total shutdown all while the car is in motion at varying speeds. I have had my alternator replaced twice, my battery replaced and my spark plugs changed out. I have researched and am fairly certain it is my tipm which is a common problem for my make and model of car that dodge has decided isn't worth their time to fix. I have almost crashed multiple times due to the random failure of my tipm and thusly find it unsafe to drive my vehicle anymore.
Takata recall- my air bag light stays on all the time, also i had to replace the electronic control module, it was completely full of corrosion. All of the front and back suspention had to be replaced, all control arms upper and lower, struts, the whole thing. The transmission will not shift properly, causing the engine to stall. I have had the suspention fixed, and the electrical replaced. The transmission fluid changed but mechanic could not find out what the problem is. It does not shift properly when on highway driving, and will not down shift when stopping, car stalls out. The electrical module would not put out enough power to run the lights, wipers, fan or radio. This car is a real piece of crap, dodge should be ashamed of themselves for even putting it on the market. We want action, for what we paid for this junk.
Car purchased brand new in 2007 with lifetime powertrain warranty.driven 99% on interstate at approximately 70 mph.all manufacturer's maintenance recommendations have been followed.while driving approx 72 mph in flow of traffic, car suddenly decelerated to under 35 mph and lightning bolt (electronic throttle control indicator) began flashing. I was nearly hit by a tractor trailer barreling down on my car. I moved to the shoulder, grabbed the manual and read about the light. I turned off the car and turned it back on after about 15 minutes and the car seemed fine and i was able to get home. The next morning, the car wouldn't start. I tried several hours later and it started just fine. About 1 mile down the road in 3rd gear, the car lost speed again dropping from approx 40 mph to 10 mph. The lightning bolt was not on this time, but the check engine light came on. I pulled into the nearby car parts store and they read the engine codes (p2110 and p2118). I took my car to my mechanic at under 10 mph on a 55 mph road. The mechanic got the same codes and indicated that the throttle body probably needed to be replaced.i then contacted the local dealership, indicated what was wrong and was told that they would need me to pay $95 to inspect the vehicle before they could tell me whether or not the parts would be covered under warranty.i told her what part was in question and was told it was not under warranty, despite its drastic effect on the engine.because it was not covered under warranty or recall, my mechanic worked on it.he cleaned the throttle body and found no problems with it.he then replaced the cam shaft position sensors, which fixed the problem.this is a serious safety issued that will get someone killed, if it hasn't already.it's possible that it has happened and hasn't been reported because a dead person can tell their version of events.
The total integrated power control module (tipm) is the latest diagnosis made (7/31/15) for my 2007 dodge caliber.history: beginning in 2010 i began to notice an intermittent terrible whining noises and loss of power, which i attributed to (incorrectly) to the dodge cvt automatic transmission. The events would occur then o go away only to return again. Then beginning in 2011 the events were followed shortly thereafter by electrical component failures all of which caused me to make emergency shoulder pull offs due to significant power loss and the acrid odor and smoke of smoldering plumes of smoke.the acrid smell and smoke would stop when i shut down the vehicle; however the vehicle would not restart and had to be towed to a mechanic in each of the following documented incidents:1/3/11 (mileage 67,877) tow and replace starter - $429.001/7/12 (mileage 73,943) tow and replace warranted starter - $179.002/14/13 (mileage 85,490) tow and replace warranted starter- $189.00 3/7/14 (mileage 97,383) tow and replacement starter - $324.032/15/15 (mileage unknown) replace alternator$406.005/20/15 (mileage 102,660) replacement starter $491.277/17/15 (mileage 103, 320) replacement starter $ (no charge)7/17/15 (mileage 103, 325) unable to diagnose electrical problem7/31/15 (mileage 103, 325) replacement (tipm) $ 1242.00 (estimate) come on dodge/daimler chrysler/fiat make this right or forever forego future product purchase
My car was parked, upon trying to start the car, no luck.had the car towed to the dealer. Fuel pump was the initial diagnosis, but then also the wiring harness was melted.$642.69 later my car was running.not a happy camper.
I was driving down the interstate during a heavy rain storm and my windshield wipers stopped working.i turned them off and back on but they would not turn back on.based on research conducted, and similar issues found during the research, all signs point to the totally integrated power module.this is completely unsafe and i can't believe this part isn't weather proof when it controls so many vital parts of the vehicle.with all the issues i'm also shocked to know there hasn't been a recall on this product.this same style product is used in multiple dodge vehicles and other chrysler / jeep vehicles.those vehicles also exhibit the same issue.
Headlight bulb replacement should be easy for the consumer and company should be liable for the low beam problem that causing lot of owners to repairs cost of 100 of 900 dollars.this is a economy safety issue that increase pressure of the owners who do not affords such a costly repairs and drive in pressure -- also a issue for the safety of others. One small problem can cause many other problems. Do not let company get out of easy excuse that under not a safety problem.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle would not start. The starter was replaced, but the failure recurred. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 160,000.
Tipm module does not power lights to see while driving and led to power drains. Led to complete loss of power on highway.
The tips is shorting out. Going to cost 2200 to fix. This is a recall in other vehicles around the same year. Why does it not apply to the caliber. Seems to be an issue. Looked into several forums with same issue that keeps popping up.
Was driving 35-40 mph when etc light came on and car was jolting forward and losing power back and forth. Belletire wouldn't touch it cuz they said it seemed to them like a recall issue. He said that either the ecu needed reset or the drive by wire system was malfunctioning . This is also after my control arms were bad at 48000 mile. Both of these problems i have had have thousands of complaints online for them and are notorious for these problems.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximate 30 mph the vehicle stalled and the transmission light illuminated. She drove onto the emergency lane for 20 minutes and the vehicle began to function normally. The dealer replaced the computer chip. The failure happened a week later and was taken back to dealer who stated that they did not know how to fix the failure. She then took the vehicle to another dealer who replaced the transmission. Two weeks later the vehicle stalled again. The contact stated the dealership advised her that they would call her when special technicians came from chrysler. The dealer never notified her. The failure mileage was 42,000 and the current mileage was 43,000.
Speedometer went from 70 to 0 than car died losing all power and would not restart. This problem was diagnosed as the starter this is the fifth starter in 1 year.
I purchased the car in december 2011 with the front struts needing to be replaced. The day i bought it, the electrical throttle system light came on and it shook violently and shut off. I waited a few minutes and it started back up. After replacing the struts, and the tire rod ends, the car was fine.by august 2012, the ball joints and tire rod ends needed to be replaced again, and this time the control arm, so i replaced them.in november 2012, i replaced the battery and alternator. In february 2013, the car began shutting off as i would accelerate, making the creaking and rattling noises near the front tires, and the steering wheel would shake and the wheels would sound like they would come off as i would brake from highway speeds.so i took the car to the shop, and once again, the ball joints, tire rod ends, crank shaft, spark plugs, coil pack, oil sensor and a few other things.my check engine light is back on, and it reads gascap, so i replaced it, and two weeks later it is still on. And here it is march 14, 2013 i am hearing the creaking and rattling noises again, and the wobbling sound of the tires and shaking of the steering wheel when i break. Just this morning on my way taking my kids to school, pulling away from a stop light, the car was cutting off.this car is not safe, and i have children.i cannot afford to keep shelling out 1,000 dollars to fix this car every month or every few months.what can be done about this????
I've owned the car since new, recently we had a problem with a dead battery. After replacing the battery, the car would not go more than 20 miles per hour and we had engine fault codes. Once we cleared out the codes, the car ran fine. However, we now had a front headlight that was out. Replacing the bulb didn't work. The only way to get the front headlights both on was to turn on the high beams.after doing some research from a dodge dealership and on the internet, i have found the issue is widespread and due topoor design of the fuse box on these vehicles, also known as the tipm.i believe the drain on the battery was caused by the poor design of the tipm and with that one incident, started the failure process.this vehicle has 150,000 miles on it and has been well maintained.i have replaced the tipm with a used one from a auto supply yard, i still get intermittent starting of the vehicle and while both headlights are working, the high beams are now not working.
On nov. 22, 2016 i was driving to work at 6:00 am. My caliber started making a hissing noise, after about 2 minutes of this the engine shut off and i lost all electric power. The car was towed to the shop and the starter was replaced. 2 weeks later the same thing happened. This time nothing was replaced, due to the car starting at the garage. Again on dec. 20 the same thing with the exception of i was on my way home. The started was again replaced. This recurred on jan 9, 2017. The started was replaced again. It happened again on jan. 20, again the starter has been replaced. According to the mechanic, they cannot find anything else wrong. This is a serious safety issue. Luckily i haven't been driving at a high rate of speed, but if this would occur at 65 or 70 mph it could cause serious problems. After doing some research on-line, i have found several other complaints about this problem.
My total integrated power module (tipm) is out! my left head lights wont work, my horn goes off at random times, my airbag lights keep flashing, my wiper blades sometimes do not work.the car acts like its completely possessed! this is a definite safety issue and a known problem with this model! something needs to be done before someone dies!
Problems with the totally integrated power module.my head lights are not working properly.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving various speeds, the vehicle stalled and the electronic throttle control failed. The failure had occurred on several occasions with the electronic throttle control warning indicator blinking on the instrument panel. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, but the failure could not be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 155,000.
While driving over the whitestone bridge in ny, at the crest of the bridge the vehicles electronic throttle control failure reducing the speed of vehicle from 50 mph to 5 mph in the course of less then a minute.i was nearly killed by a tractor trailer truck who was able to swerve around my car.the cart rolled down the bridge with limited power.from all the complaints i am reading on various caliber websites this seems to be a serious dangerous condition that should be reviewed before someone gets killed.
For the second time this year, i have lost all headlights, air conditioning, engine dying randomly while driving, safety lights flashing and beeping on dashboard.the tipm module is going out again. This part is nearly $1,000 and only a dodge dealership is able to fix this issue.there are issues worldwide with this same part in multiple dodge cars since 2007 and nothing has been done to fix this issue
Have had sporadic electrical issues for the last few years, chalked it up to normal wear & tear. After looking at other testimonies online, beginning to realize the issues i've had are similar to those of other caliber owners. Just replaced the alternator in june 2014 and now car is shutting off while driving down the road. Check engine light has been on for 3 weeks and will randomly not be on for a series of drives only to come back on again. Dashboard lights do not come on all the time, i'd say more often than not night driving is done with no dashboard lights. I change headlights & taillights frequently. About to head to autozone now to have it hooked up to diagnostic machine to see if any codes come up for check engine light. Chrysler needs to do a recall asap or there will be several peoples lives at risk, including my entire family seeing as how this is our main vehicle.
I was driving on an interstate highway at 70 mph i noticed my speedometer stopped working i continued about the same speed( using my tachometer) for about 3 miles and my car abruptly lost all power almost causing me to get hit. I make it off the highway to the shoulder and the car will barely idle and had no throttle response. This was a very dangerous situation caused by a faulty electronic throttle control (throttle body) that is a well known issue by consumers and dealers
Head light went out, after checking the bulb and found it good.did some research and found i need to invest$1200.00 to replace the tipm. Head lights are a required service on any automobile to drive on public highway. When is dodge going to take responsibility and issue a recall and solution to fix this problem before any loss of life is incurred.by their knowing this problem exists they are open a large law suit when an injury occurs.
My car horn, lights, power windowswill not work and the car will not start the car stopped without warning and my lights when off. Now the car does not turn on at all after getting a tow truck to my mechanic he stated that my power train module needed to be re program but he could not do it so i had to get another tow truck to take the car to the dealer which told me i have to replace my tipm @ $1700. Plus tax. Too expensive this s/b cover by dodge this was scary for my car to stopped while i was driving i could have kill myself and someone elsei already paid over $200. In tow trucks
I just recently purchased a 2007 dodge caliber.it has been less than 30 days since i have had the car.the car was a nice vehicle, until one day coming home from heidelberg, germany.i was on autobahn 656 between heidelberg and mannheim.i was in the left lane driving about 70 k/hr.i went to turn on my headlights and as i did the entire dashboard panel went blank.all meters (odometer, tacometer, and speedometer) dropped to zero, but they quickly came back on.when they returned to normal, the transmission had shifted into neutral, causing me to nearly get rear-ended by a car traveling behind me. I was unable to shift back into drive. I changed lanes and got to the shoulder and shut off the car.when i shut it off and let it sit for about 5 minutes, i restarted the car and was able to put it back into drive.but when i had started the car, the malfunction light had turned on and would not extinguish.i was able to drive the car back to my apartment and let it be parked.when i returned to the house, i tried to restart it and the malfunction light had went out.my wife then drove the car back to the car loton tuesday morning.i had talked to customer service, a one [email protected], i explained to him that i felt the car is an unsafe car.yes, i understand that you deserve the chance to fix the problem.but who is to say that the problem will be fixed correctly and that it won't happen again.what if my wife and myself don't find out that it wasn't perfectly fixed until it's too late. If i'm driving and i have an accident, do you want to be the one to explain to my family why you would not take my car on a return because it's unsafe? i have always purchased dodge vehicles.i don't like driving anything but a dodge.i don't blame anyone at miliatary car sales or even dodge.but i do not want this unsafe vehicle.our lives hang in your handsmake us keep an unsafe car or let us return it today 13 oct 2007 at 1743.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 35 mph, both front axles failed. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and repaired under warranty. The contact also experienced problems with the radio and the problem was repaired by the dealer. The contact was driving 25 mph when the vehicle suddenly downshifted. The contact believed the failure within recall 10v234000 (vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal) was the cause of the problem. The vehicle had not been repaired. The vin was unavailable. The failure mileage was approximately 27,000 and the current mileage was 36,400.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 55 mph, the horn independently activated and the steering wheel seized. All the warning lights on the instrument cluster illuminated and the gauges and meters provided inaccurate readings. The vehicle stalled as it veered into a ditch. In addition, the contact noticed smoke underneath the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 129,023.
2007 dodge caliber - totally integrated power module (tipm) unit issuelow beam headlights stopped working while operating vehicle.only high beam lights work.local garage diagnosed problem as faulty totally integrated power module, with a repair cost of $1225.headlights are a necessary component to the safe operation of a vehicle.dodge ought to look into the issue of faulty tipm units and the safety implications inherent in failure of the component.the safety of the families traveling in vehicles manufactured by dodge ought to be of the greatest concern.
The first week i heard a hard & solid click noise coming from the rear of the vehicle 6-15-06.on 6-18-06 while in stand-still traffic the vehicles oil light lit up & chimed prior to the engine stalling & in neutral with the clutch to the floor.on 6-19-06 i took it in to the shop.john and i returned to the dealership 6-22-06 spoke with bob corlette about the multiple mechanical failures.we were told by bob that there is nothing that they can do.we spoke with david tindale (who provided the owners manual) & who reassured both of us that the problems would either be fixed or if they couldn't be fixed that they would be able to enact the lemon law & replace this car with a new one.i dropped the vehicle off the following week 6-26-06, len thomas said the stalling problem could not be duplicated.since picking up my vehicle, over the last 2 weeks the vehicle has still stalled at least 8-10 times.i received a call from lori at the dealership on a follow up to my service where she stated she too heard the clicking noise since she drove the vehicle.she also stated that the vehicle stalled on her while at a red light, but wrote it off to possibly her error and so this was not documented to service.on 7-12-06 w/ len thomas & david tindale to please call me back in reference to what lori stated about the stalling problem.i called and sp/ w david tindale &len thomas about these mechanical issues 7-13-06.i also followed up w/ a chrysler customer assistance request 7-13-06 file number 15156132. Len thomas called after speaking with chrysler about the problems and found that there were 4 other 2007 dodge calibers in the us that have been exhibiting the same stalling problems.furthermore, while sitting idle in traffic my speedometer display races up to 20 mph and back to 0 and races to 40 mph and back to 0.this has now occurred approx. 6 times in the past few weeks.i reported this new mechanical failure to len thomas 7-20-06.
4/3/12 my mechanic would not inspect my car because the fog lights did not work, diagnosis stated that it needed a timp (fuse box bad) - he replaced it.10/12/13 while i was at napa auto parts store i was informed that i had not brake lights - diagnosis states that i need to replace the timp again.thank god there was not an accident - but you must know that this issue with this car is frequent and is a roulette with safety.brake lights are a safety essential and should never be worried or questioned to know they will work or not?i employ you to have a safety recall on these vehicles.
Passenger headlight not turning on.after replacing bulb it powered on one or two more times then would not turn on again.after much research i have found that the tipm is the result, and that it is very expensive to fix.since headlight have to pass safety inspections and the tipm appears to be faulty, this should be considered a recall!
Driver side headlight does not work. Replace light twice, neither one works.high beam works, but not low beam.have been told need to replace tipm (main fuse block).appears to be typical problem with this car.
Driving along temp sensor for what i found out later was for transmission starts flickering making the car go 10 miles an hour get to stop light car shuts off have to turn key off and on and hope i don't get hit from behind this happens off and on but now has become constant can't even drive anywhere then to top it off i find out its a common complaint and five hundred dollars who can afford it i will never own another car that has the t.i.p.m. To delicate and from what i gather a known problem to dodge help me foot the cost so i don't lose my job oh i was coming to a stop at a red light in the city
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 40 mph, the driver's side head light failed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the total integrated power module was faulty and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 102,000.
My tipm went out on my car. It's been out for three months now and dodge has not sent the part for my car yet. They originally sent me the wrong part and then i was told that i would receive the correct part in a week. Well, it's been three full months now and still no part. Every call to dodge is saying that the part if on back order. No recall on this part at all. I have no vehicle to get around in and i'm lost as to what i should do now. If there's a class action lawsuit, i would love to receive information regarding it. This is an absolute nightmare.
My left headlight went out. Changing the bulb did not fix it. I was told it was an electrical issue that would cost $1000. After several months, the car started to stall out and have trouble accelerating. When the car stalls out it won't start for several minutes. I would be driving down the road at 60 mph and the car would just die. The worst situation is when i was driving up a hill and my car stalled. I had to stop in the middle of the road and turn it off for several minutes before it would start again. I was told this was related to the same electrical issue and the tipm needed to be replaced. After doing some research, i found that this is a very common problem for this car. It was a defect in manufacturing that causes a very high number of the tipm modules to eventually fail. This is not right and should be fixed by dodge.
The low beam headlights went out and both bulbs are known good. Its the tipm total integrated power module that's the culprit and it costs $900.00 to replace. I'm demanding a total recall on all dodge calibers.
Driving on interstate 55 back to peoria,il . Car interior and dash lights flashing and surging. Smelt something burning. Car died, lucky got to shoulder of freeway. Had it towed from pontiac, il. To firestone in peoria,il.diagnosis, hole in a/c compressor(possible pistons blew through casing), shorted starter, fried battery
Had to replace the alternator .the charging light was coming on.now the head lights are not working replaced bulbs still not working not getting power tipm issue.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at various speeds, the vehicle made an abnormal noise in the front end. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the driver and passenger side ball joints and control arms failed and needed to be repaired. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. While driving at various speeds, the windshield wipers would independently activate. While driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the alternator failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. While attempting to start the vehicle, it failed to start. The contact stated that the electronic throttle control warning indicator would illuminate on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.
The vehicle had numerous throttle issues and air conditioning issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred i was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. After some time the vehicle's left low beam headlight went out. When replaced it still did not work. The vehicle's alternator and battery were checked and found to be functional. Within a week after this occurrence the vehicle could not be started without a "jump" and even so would lose power once parked and could not be started again. I returned the car to the auto mechanic, specifically an auto electrician, and was told it was the totally integrated power module that needs to be replaced at a cost of $700 plus labor. In response to this i researched the part and came across numerous people with the same problem and the same eventual diagnosis. The car has been essentially undrivable and unsafe. There was the constant worry that the electrical problem would happen while on the expressway and cause very unsafe conditions for myself and others on the road. It is my opinion a recall needs to be issued for this problem.
Rt headlight not working. I replaced bulb but later found out that my fuse box needed to be replaced . Apparently this is a common issue. Light all of a sudden stopped working. It limits my visibility at night at posses a threat to drivers who don't see me while driving at night.
Drove home from work parked my car next morning it wouldn't start.had battery power and cranked when i turned the key but would not kick over to start. Towed to mechanic.he said there wasn't anything wrong with it, he cleaned the spark plugs, weather warmed up and car worked again.this happened twice, he stated i needed to take it to dodge dealership to have the computer reprogrammed (that this was a common problem for my car type)two days later, driving to work all the lights went on and the steering froze, not able to turn left or right. I was able to exit and park car without incident now having it towed to dealership.
The dashboard lights all come on and ding. Car will not go fast than 15-20 mph.
Driver side seatbelt releases itself while i'm driving, front driver headlight does not turn on even though bulb has been changed several times to rule out damaged bulb, rear tag light won't turn on when vehicle is in motion, rearview mirror light will not turn on.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the passenger side high beam lamp was inoperable. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the fuse box and electrical harness failed and needed replacement. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000. The vin was unavailable.
I was driving and the battery light came on. Later on when about 100 miles from home there are several other lights that come on and then while running approx 60mph the car just shuts down in the middle of the road. After replacing the alternator and battery the battery light continues to stay on. I take the car to a local garage to find out the tipm needs to be replaced which appears to cost over $1000 in which i do not have to spend.
Tipm-, battery terminals/holds downs, tbody.i found these issues and went to the dealer in relation to these problems after i had done my investigation. They saw me with the information i had, and began to run in theother direction.i told them what was wrong with the vehicle. I just had surgery and was inhaling the carbon from the vehicle. This is a major electrical issue and cad light problem. The vehicle only goes 20 mph. Chrysler released this vehicle to its customers for loan or purchase with a faulty design in place. Chrysler knew of this and proceeded to sale this vehicle in an order to make money and not looking at the risk that we as customers would be taking as well as them. Chrysler didn't even bother to have a recall for this issue. I as a consumer feel cheated and want to be compensated for my loss. The vehicle is not in drive mode and i am not risking the life my son and i for this major mistake on their part.
The electronic control sensor keeps flashing and i keep losing power to my car. It starts shaking and making noises like it's about to stall. I have stalled several times. This is very concerning as i have kids and have to travel roads where there are very few spots to pull over safely whether it's because of traffic or on a mnt with a dropoff. I am a single parent and help is not always close.
The car would not start (lights worked, but engine would not turn over).after replacing the throttle cable and box, as well as some broken wiring, the car still would not start.the mechanic then towed the vehicle to a dodge dealership, where the computer was reset.the car ran for another week after it was first "fixed," and then again did not start (same problem as before).additionally, the light to indicate that the air bags were not functioning turned on prior to the vehicle not starting.this is more frustrating because we have had extensive issues with this car (replaced all tie rods, bushings, control arms, have a broken door from the hinge breaking, and had multiple tires wearing unevenly due to the car's suspension problems) already, and have sunk well over $6000 in repairs this year alone.
While driving the car would loose all power and engine would die. If i slowed down to make a turn, car would do same thing, loose power and engine would die. It would also have trouble starting. Wouldn't stay running. In school pickup line, car would loose all power and engine would die as soon as gas peddle was pushed on. This would happen on the main highway, city roads, school pickup/ drop off line, making turns, and when first starting car. It would also do these things when slowing down and accelerating. I had this problem with the car for nearly a month, before the car completely shut down and wouldn't start. One of the wires connected to fuel pump burnt through the housing. With the fuel pump being in the gas tank don't you think there could have been an explosion.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 65 mph, the vehicle made an abnormal noise and the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the ignition switch needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vin was not available. The failure mileage was 92,000...updated 02/11/15
Driver's side headlight went out again. And then one day the car wouldn't start. Jumped the car and it started. We just had the tipm replaced a few months ago. This time they found a burnt tipm connector pin. They replaced the connector and could not duplicate the no-start condition.
I have 2007 dodge caliber and was driving the electrical system was make the car shut down all my lights andsignal lights was not working. I was on the expressway and my signal lights or nothing was working.
The cel was has been on continually for the last several days. At first the battery warning indicator lighted and then a few minutes later went off and then back on. This was followed very shortly by the abs, brake, airbag indicators all going off and on intermittently. Wipers started to work intermittently. All of a sudden the car was in a wrong gear and the engine started revving too high - the speedometer was going from about 50 to zero intermittently. I was going to try to make it home (about 3.5 miles), but was only able to get it into a nearby parking lot safely. It was very hard to handle - i am just fortunate that the parking lot was nearby. The lack of handling could have caused a wreck as i was on a four-lane undivided highway. These problems are due to a faulty tipm - of which has cost me $810 to repair.
My headlights was not working so i bought a replacement bulb. The low beam was out the high beam works. The bulb replacement did not work. I took to a mechanic and he looked at it and said it was my fuse box. The entire thing needed replaced. Being in the business he said it is a known problem with this make and model. The cost to replace the entire thing is costly since the is basically the computer of the car... There is no way to fix without replacing the entire fuse box.this fuse box controls a lot of things that could be safety issues and lighting to me is very important.i have owned many cars and have never had to replace a fuse box. I checked for recalls and there was none. I began looking online and the amount of people who have this make and model and the same problem is astounding but i guess until someone gets hurt chrysler won't do anything about it.
Integrated power module needs replaced at 65000 miles. Dashboard cluster flickers and car only accelerates to 15 mph. Cost of repair is $1000. Dealership advised they are selling power modules at 30 a month. How is this not a problem to be a recall?
Engine throttle control light came on after pumping gas, vehicle vibrated. Light came on intermittently on trip home, would slow speed down and it would go off. Exited interstate, came to full stop, accelerated to go, and car vibrated and almost stalled as pulling out. Drove vehicle for two more days - light came on and would vibrate - almost stalled in 2 busy intersections. Previous recall on 25k 2007 dodge calibers - mine not included in recall. Unable to get an appt at dodge dealer for a week. Decided this was a safety issue and did not drive. Issue happened while driving and stationary, on highway at high speeds and on city street, turning. Issue caused the vehicle to not go normal speeds - was unable to go posted speed limit. Contacted dodge/chrysler recall - they will not admit this is a widespread issue. Numerous vehicle owners are running into this at 90-130k miles. It is a safety issue if your computer or electronic malfunctions as you are driving 70 mph or through a busy intersection and vehicle stops. Was going various speeds as i was 90 miles away from home 70 mph, then today could not go higher than 40 mph.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While in park, the vehicle failed to start. Upon further inspection, the contact noticed that the fuel pump was melted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 183,000.
On saturday, 5/30/09, while driving dodge caliber 2007 back home, all instrument gauges needles suddenly and erratically swing up and down. I started smelling a rotten-egg sulfur odor and experienced mild throat and lung irritation. As soon as i arrived home, with engine still running, i started investigating the cause of gauges needles erratic motion and source of sulfur odor. First, i checked the recently replaced manufacturer original alternator, which has recently catastrophically failed. Please see recently filed 5/16/09, nhtsa safety complaint, odi #10268931. After i verified that the new alternator was working correctly, i started sniffing and tracing the source of sulfur odor. First, i thought odor was coming from computer module; then, i thought it was coming from fuse box next to computer module. As i sniffed closer to fuse box, under plastic engine air intake manifold, i noticed battery squirting boiling-steaming sulfuric acid. I found the source of rotten-egg sulfur odor. I removed the air intake manifold to fully expose the battery and take photos. Luckily, i only suffered mild irritation to my throat and lungs, but i could have been fatally exposed to sulfuric acid gas poisoning, or battery could have exploded with fatal outcome. Photos and battery are available for your review. I don not know if unsafe catastrophic failure of original manufacturer alternator caused this unsafe catastrophic failure of manufacturer original battery or vice-versa.
The car will lose all power when driving, almost at a complete stop. The first 2 times it happened were at night (the second during a complete downpour) and since i lose all power, the hazard lights won't even work so i have to get out of the car to alert other drivers so that they won't hit me!! so dangerous!!the first "fix" was to do a full computer system re-flash ($300). The second "fix" was to replace the transmission control module ($600). The third time this happened was 3 days after the second "fix" as i'd driven not even 100 feet from a parking spot, i turned the volume up on my radio and the car died! the 3rd "fix" will be upwards of $1500!!! dodge knows about this problem. In fact, it is the faulty placement of the tipm that has caused this!! it was placed in a spot where it constantly receives damage from water and dirt on the road, which causes corrosion and then bam! loss of power!!!! dodge has not created any recalls for this which is unacceptable! this problem, if it happens on any highways or in major intersections, could kill someone!!! i've done a ton of research and this is happening to too many people with the same exact model year car!!! i've contacted dodge corporation to request a recall and/or financial assistance in this matter and they won"t do anything! i've owned this car for less than 3 months and i've already had it in the shop 3 times for this problem. When will dodge realize that they have to do something about this? when someone dies????? i'm going to reach out to as many people as i can who have had/are having the same problem so we can get a lawyer involved!!! someone needs to do something about this problem and that someone is dodge!!!!!!!
A couple of weeks ago i was on my way to work and turned on my signal light to make a turn.when i turned my signal light on i noticed that the interior overhead light went on.i found it strange and thought my door may have been opened.a few days later on my way to work the signal lights were no longer working.this is where my serious concerns began.i have a 30 minute commute to work and switch lanes or make turns quite often en route.it gets worse.after a long day at work i ran out to my vehicle to avoid gettin soaked in the rain and when i attempted to turn on my wipers i was infuriated to find out they were no longer working either.needless to say the vehicle is parked in my driveway.fog lights don't work, turn signals, wipers and highbeams are no longer working.
Cluster lights, back lighting for climate control knobs and tail lightsflicker three times and then go off.this happens any time when turning on lights, whether at vehicle start-up or when driving down highway.makes for unsafe night time driving.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated while driving various speeds the drivers side headlight failed. The contact mentioned that the failure occurred intermittently. The vehicle was taken to a private mechanic who diagnosed that the entire computer needed to be reset. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 115,000 and the current mileage was 117,000.
The first signs of a problem were a clicking sound when turning the steering wheel.it did not happen every time, and i did nothing about it until december, when a portion of a strap with electrical wire embedded began to protrude from the upper steering column.it soon began to be a nuisance as the portion grew longer and would catch on the steering position adjustment knob.i grew alarmed when the airbag light came on, and took it to the dealership.they said it was a broken clockspring, and they had to order the part.it cost me over $300 to get this repaired, and now i see toyota is doing a recall for this exact same thing, a spiral cable assembly that becomes damaged from turning the steering wheel. It is a poor design. Toyota is replacing this with a better part, but i do not think dodge did that, and i had to pay to get this replaced.i am concerned it could happen again, and believe there should be a recall by dodge also.
Driver's side headlight went out. Took it to shop to get it replaced. It was not the lightbulb. They got it fixed, but said the tipm may be faulty and it will need replaced if headlight goes out again. A day later, the headlight went out again.
Left front lo beam quit working. Took to shop to replace and was told that the tipm is bad and will need to be replaced at a cost of almost 1000.00. Believes rear wiper may also be effected.
The totally integrated power module on left side of the engine compartment is not working. So ,the brake lights & horn do not work . However, the individual component was tested the brake lights & horn work individually. I don't know how long i have been driving like this but one of my co workers told me my brake lights were out because he almost hit me in the rear. This part is not covered under warranty because it is not part of the engine.it will cost apprx. $820 for repair. Which i cannot afford at this time. I am reporting this because it is a safety issuedriving without brake lights or a horn. Someone can get seriously hurt or possibly die from driving like this.
Bad pcm. I'm driving with my daughter in the car and it just shuts off almost causing the person driving behind me to hit us. So far i've repaced the battery, alternator, cables, and now pcm. If i could afford to get another car i would in a heartbeat. I feel so unsafe driving this car.
The recall cannot be completed because of faulty wiring by viking dodge of crystal lake. This dealership is out of business. I have documentation that the cruise control installed by viking dodge was not a mopar approved part. I have furnished chrysler all the documentation stating that this is causing a problem with the throttle pedal. They have told me i am responsible for correcting the incorrect installation by one of there old dealerships.
The radio, passenger side headlight and various other problems which a mechanic has told me are controlled by the tpim are not working ! the headlight shut off while i was driving on the interstate! according to everything i'm reading, this is a common problem for multiple years and models of daimler/ chrysler products. I have tried to replace the headlight twice and it's not broken. This should be recalled immediately ! it's the poor engineering design of the tpim housing! the housing has multiple vent holes in it and it is located in the engine compartment that is often exposed to moisture! please help, i do no have $1000.00 to pay chrysler for their poor engineering of the car!thanks
This has happened on several different occasions, there is no rhyme or reason to this problem. I will be driving down the road at between 45 and 65 miles per hour when all of a sudden the little lightning bolt will come on the dash panel and car will loose all power. Sometimes i'm able to pull off the road safely, however the steering also locks up whenthis happens. Other times i will be on a two lanehighway with no shoulder, on these occasions i turn off the engine and coast and restart the vehicle.i would say this has happened to me at least a hundred times or more. It can happen several times in one trip and then not happen for several months. I have heard of several other vehicles being recalled for this same problem and i am wondering why hasn't this been done on this vehicle. I have seen that this has happened to other dodge caliber owners, does someone have to die for this to be fixed. I can't even sell this or give it away because i don't want someone to be killed. I have learned how to deal with this. God forbid someone is eventually killed.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while having the vehicle maintenanced, the mechanic advised that the fuel pump wiring had caught fire, burned through the fuel pump and into the fuel tank. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified. The approximate failure mileage was 152,000.
My car started to stall a month ago after getting a new battery placed into my vehicle. The etc (engine throttle control) light would pop up on my dash. I could no longer accelerate. So once i went to a mechanic shop, they read the codes and it said i needed my camshaft position censor fixed. Problem occurred again days later. They then said it was the throttle body, they put in a new one. The problem occurred again, my car actually stalled while i was turning in a intersection. That is dangerous, especially when my daughter is in the car. I went back and they had to keep my car for a week because they said it was my ecm and they had to order the part. I got my car back on thursday june 29th, 2017 and my car stalled again on june 30th. I am quite frustrated at this point because i'm noticing that this has been an ongoing issue and dodge is not acknowledging that there is an issue. Someone will and probably already has died because of this issue.
My drivers side driving light was out so i bought a new bulb. That didn't fix the problem so i looked online and saw everyone was having the same problem and it seems to be the tipm which is around 1000.00 to fix. If we are all having the same problem i would think it's something that dodge should be taking care of not the consumer!
I own a 2007 dodge caliber sxt 2.0 liter. Over the past 4 + years i have had to deal with multiple problems with my car and they have all been very expensive.when i bring my caliber to the dealership i am told that there is one serious problem after another " and there are no recalls !!" for these problem.the problem that has caused the biggest issue is the "integrated power module" it is causing multiple codes to appear and causing my car to run rough. It will cost $1000 dollars " and no recall". In the state i live in we have to pass emissions tests, it has failed multiple times. I was given an extension to try and resolve the issue. But i just spent $1000 fixing the heating problems in the car only to be told that the t.i.p.m is the root of all the remaining issues. I cant afford to spend the money to fix this issue " i shouldn't have to !!" plus i am unemployed. Chrysler/dodge no longer makes the caliber, and have left the current owners of these vehicles to deal with these issues themselves. I cant sell the car because if it wont pass the emissions test it is worthless and no one will buy it anyway. I don't want to trade it in i cant afford another car. Please seriously consider this problem and allow a recall i have read about the other serious problems related to the t.i.p.m and cant understand why one doesn't exist. What is dodge waiting for??
Only one headlight will illuminate, even after replacement. This is a commonly reported issue with defective totally integrated power module (tipm) units on this model.the exact same tipm units have been recalled on other models using the part, but not for the caliber.this is a safety issue since more than one headlight can fail at any time.the consumer should not have to pay for a defect like this.
Low beam headlight on passenger side will not turn on took into a shop and they said that it is the tipm telling the light not to turn on so in other words its a bad tipm. I was made aware that the part would be close to $1200. I've researched this issue online and i see that it is a very common issue. The other day the driver side decided to turn off as well. What happens when i'm driving in the dark and the one headlight that i do have decides to turn off and i get into an accident. A recall needs to be set into motion on this part. Apparently the tipm causes many issues other than just what i'm experiencing.
At approx 6pm on 11/11 while attempting to enter the interstate my vehicle began to jerk violently.the check engine light began to blink and the vehicle would not exceed 35 mph.i took the vehicle to a local autozone to have it diagnostic.multiple misfires on all cylinders.i had the spark plugs replaced that weekend because my dealers repair shop was full.problem still occurred so i left the car at the dealer for them to check the engine.the camshaft sensor needs to be replaced.this is not covered under the 50,000 miles engine and power train warranty because it is not a moving part.i just had to replace both ball joints and upper and lower control arms on the car in june.it is currently at 42,600 miles.the alignment is off again so i'm suspecting the ball joints are going bad again.
Noticed the driver's side headlight was out again while i was driving through a parking lot. I pulled into a parking spot and turned the lights off and back on again and then both headlights were working. Took it to the shop today since we've had the tipm and tipm connector replaced within the last 6 months. They could not duplicate the headlight not working, but said they'd replace the tipm since it's still under warranty.we're really starting to hate this car.
Totally integrated power module problems.having all kinds of cascading electrical problems with this car with only 70k miles.driver's side low beam will no longer work.engine intermittently stops/starts.acceleration issues, etc.chrysler wants over a $1,000.00 to address this issue, and the replacement tipm would likely fail in similar manner shortly thereafter.extremely unsafe car day or night.
Vehicle horn has become inoperable at59663 miles. Horn tests ok. No electrical signal when horn button is depressed on steering wheel. Horn has stopped functioning as a signal the door locks have been activated with the remote control. Horn is inoperable whether driving car or stationary.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while attempting to power off the vehicle, the key would not disengage from the ignition. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 138,129. ....updated 08/29/15updated 08/26/15.
Positive battery post on original manufacturer battery came loose from body and released battery acid into engine compartment. Battery acid ate through protective coating on wires to main electrical and caused car to stall and malfunction.
Was driving home one night and my car stared losing power at lower speeds. After getting off the interstate and turning left from a complete stop my car died. This stop, go, die cycle continued all the way home next morning get ready to go to work and nothing. Turned out the flue pump and wire harness had meltedand burnt up. Luky we didn't burn up too. With i could upload pictures here.
Horn and airbag both failed making the vehicle unsafe.dodge refuses to fix the problem.
When in cruise control at between 70-75 mph and going up a long incline (cajon pass) the electrical light comes on and the car quits running, and to date starts again after losing about 5mph after several heartbeats. This has been happening intermittently since the car was new with less than 6000 miles on it.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 60 mph, the battery warning indicator illuminated and the vehicle decelerated and stalled. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the electrical system was inoperable. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer and dealer were not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 10,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While in park, the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and then to a dealer who were unable to diagnose or repair the vehicle. In addition, three weeks later while driving at 45 mph, the vehicle stalled. The contact was unable to restart the vehicle.the oil pressure warning light illuminated as the accelerator pedal was depressed but the vehicle failed to accelerate.the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The manufacturer wasmade aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 107,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the front driver side headlight failed to illuminate. In addition, the air bag and brake warning indicators illuminated and the horn and windshield wipers would only operate intermittently. The dealer stated that the totally integrated module needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 114,000.
My wife and daughter were driving down the highway when the car with no warning shut off almost causing an accident this is not the first time the car has gave us problems with shutting off while driving or not starting at all, the last incident the car would not start and i was out of town so she had it towed to the dealership and the said there was a mouse best under the air filter causing it not to start, i am a certified automotive and diesel technician i service this car frequently and there has never been signs of mouse intrusion this last incident was a little over a week ago when the car stalled at highway speeds so i trailered the car to the shop i am employed with and diagnosed it myself , i found several recalls on the tipm module for the 07 dodge caliber on the online repair website alldata so i called multiple dodge dealers asking if the car was due for a recall and they said there were never any recalls on the vehicle i don't feel like i should have to pay 300$ for a module that chrysler has recalled and is causing thousand of people to be stranded and injured,not to mention having to wait weeks for the module because so many if them are on back order needless to say this have been a very agitating situation.
My passenger side head light went off and on for about 2 weeks before failing to come on at all. Bulb was checked , then replaced. The battery cables were taken off over night to try to reset the computer but nothing worked. I should not have to pay $900 + to fix a headlight on a car 7 years old. Why are they not issuing a recall on a problem that so many people are having?
I have a 2007 dodge caliber.i can remove the key from the ignition without putting the car in "park". This allows the car to roll when it is not on.this is a safety concern, as i have on multiple occasions exited the car, at which time it begins to roll away.there is currently a recall for certain 2010 chrysler products (nhtsa campaign #10v200000).i believe this should be extended to include 2007, if not the years in between as well.
I have had numerous problems with this vehicle with the tipm (total integrated power module.) first the a/c blew, then the alternator blew, then the windows started malfunctioning. Now the car slows itself on the interstate and will not maintain speed. The low beam headlight on the drivers side will not function properly either. This car has major electrical issues and apparently is a common problem with this make and model of car. There needs to be a recall on this vehicle.
You can turn the car off by bumping the key/ignition with your knee.let's say you are on a long drive and shift in your seat.if you knee pushes into the key, the engine with turn off and you'll lose power.seems to be more prone to happen to taller people, as their knees are closer to the ignition.on three occasions this happened until i figured out how it happened and am now careful to not bump it.the first time was on a city street and the second two were on an interstate.it can be quite scary to lose your power steering and power brakes, and i feel very lucky to have been on a long, straight section of interstate with little traffic.
The electronic throttle control went out on me as i was entering the freeway. The etc is basically the car losing all power but the vehicle does not shut off only the gas peddle loses all power. It was very scary when your litteraly carrying your entire family including your doggy.
Bought car used in 2014. Within a week the maniverter needed replaced. Dash lights recently stopped working while driving at night. Cannot see speedometer or other gauges at night. Transmission stops working when it is hot out , trans temp light comes on and trans shuts down when driving on highways which has almost caused numerous accidents. Car stalls several times after filling with gas causing dangerous situations when driving especially pulling out into traffic after filling gas tank. Control arms and ball joints on front of car replaced with parts from dodge dealer and are bad for a second time . We will never buy another dodge vehicle.
Water got into tail light, froze and made right turn signal inoperable.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was driving 30 mph when all of the lights on the instrument panel illuminated and the vehicle suddenly accelerated. The contact also mentioned that after the abs lamp illuminated, the system engaged which caused him to temporarily lose control of the vehicle. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure who did not offer any assistance since the vehicle was out of warranty. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 88,000.
I have had this problem since the beginning of ownership. The car won't start, i have had so many batteries thinking this was the problem.the car won't start even with a new battery or the battery will have to be replaced within months.i plan to go somewhere and can't because it won't start...like right now.i haven't been able to start it in days.sometimes by wiggling the wires i can start it but now it is so bad it won't start.
This problem occurs when the vehicle is stationary and in motion. The vehicle will start to freak out by losing all of its gauges and controls, also the air bag, electrical, abs and check engine will come on. There was no warning signs when this initially occurred.i took it to a dealer and they claimed the it was the tipm (total integrated power module) and its super common with dodge products. I was informed that there is a recall on other dodge products for this very issue but not the caliber. I do not understand this nor how if this is a problem on other models from the same year it can be covered under warranty but not for this car.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the front passenger air bag warning light illuminated on an intermittent basis. The vehicle was taken to the dealer. After diagnosis, they advised her that there was a voltage failure and the vehicle needed a new battery. The vehicle was repaired by reprogramming the vehicle but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was contacted and they offered no assistance. The failure and current mileages were approximately.
This has happened many times before yesterday. While driving on the freeway, the check engine light comes on, and the car go into a "limp" mode (very little power), and even at full pedal, it slowly slows down. Having had it happen several times before, i learned to pull over, and shut off the car, and let it set for a few minutes. Sometimes times this is not easy, or safe to do. Then it is hard to restart, but will drive somewhat better. This allows me to get to a place that i can shut it off for an extended amount of time (1/2 hour), and then it runs more like normal, but the check engine light stay on for several days. After the check engine light goes out, it is running normal again until the next time. So far, this has not caused an accident, but i'm sure somebody will be hurt or killed before this gets recalled. Good luck follow drivers.
My car will as i'm driving cut off lose all power starts shaking jerking and won'tabove 5to7 miles an hour happens all time driving with my kids from school it does on freeway very unsafe almost got rear-ended a couple times very scary
Driver side headlight (low beam) stopped working.high beams work.changed out the headlight with no fix.
The drivers side headlight is out. The bulb was replaced and it still does not work. I was told that the tipm needed to be replaced. I was told that this is not a safety issue. It is a safety issue for only having one head light.i guess when i receive a citation for only one headlight then the citation will be mailed to dodge for reimbursement.
Having electrical issues with the low beams on the headlights. It started as one light not working, then went to both lights not working. We have to use the high beams at night. The car is due a safety inspection and will not pass due to the lighting problem. There's also issues with the electric windows not operating and the check engine light comes on. I have spoken with chrysler about the problem and they will not do anything because our warranty has run out. They did say that if a recall were to happen i could get reimbursed. We do not have the funds to fix it.updated 11/29/12
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber in april 08, it had 12,00 miles on it. It now has 70,000 miles.it is making a loud clicking noise in the front end.i can feel it in the steering wheel and on the floor board whenever i make a turn or go over a bump.i do not have a warranty, and the dealer wants 75.00 just to look at the car.also, while driving with my small child, my turn signals, high beam headlights, and wipers just stopped working.i have looked at hundreds of other complaints about these same issues, but i do not know of any recalls for these same issues.this is an extreme safety issue while driving. I am not sure how i will be able to pay for these problems with the car.wondering how dodge can get away with these same issues happening with thousands of calibers and them not be held liable to fix it at their cost?will never buy a dodge again!thank you, and i hope to see recalls very soon for these issues!
I see that gm has finally issued a recall for their engines stalling and i'm wondering if chrysler ever will be held accountable for the same thing?there 2007 dodge caliber stalls with a flashing left light, which has been reported to chrysler, the nhtsa, and transport canada on numerous occasions but nothing is ever done about it.consumers are just left to fend for themselves and it's completely unacceptable.
Last week i started noticing a loud rattle in the engine of my caliber. I took it to the dealer and they said it was the belt tensioner. I got it replaced and it got rid of the squeaking noise but not the rattle. I did research online and discovered that many people were having alternator problems and showed similar symptoms as mine did. I contacted the dealer and said that it would be $680 to replace. I decided to go with another mechanic because it was cheaper. This mechanic replaced it and showed me the old part, it was completely burnt. He said that there should be no way that a car with 60,000 miles on it should have an alternator in this condition. He also mention that it could have caught on fire. Why is there not a recall on this?
Driver side headlamp has gone out due to a total intergrated power module failure.
We've been told we need a fuse box at a cost of $1025.i see many other people are having this same problem.why isn't chrysler fixing this?we're on social security, we can't afford this.
On approximately february 5th around 8:00pm my family and i were driving home from being at sister's house and the dash board/instrument panel lighting went completely out.we can no longer see our tachometer or speedometer at night.we contacted our dealership while our warranty was still in effect and to our surprise the warranty did not cover electrical and we were told that it would cost $800.00+ to have it replaced.safety hazard.now at 88,623 miles our transmission is beginning to slip.dodge needs to fix this.
Driving down the highway, all of my dash lights came on-battery, fuel, temp, etc. Car lost speed and became sluggish. Lost power steering and pulled over. Car immediately died and would not go into park. Locked up completely. After about 30 mins, it started back up and ran for pax 3 blocks before doing it again. Had it towed. Replaced the alternator, then 3 weeks later same issues. Replaced the battery. Did not fix it. Now told its a common issue for the dodge caliber and is the control module which is a 1000 dollar part plus labor. And that dodge is aware of the issue and has not recalled them. I do not feel i should be stuck with the costs of a major repair that is a design flaw from the manufacturer that they have been aware of for years and is obviously a hazard when it shuts down immediately while driving with no warning. My two young children and 84 year old grand mother were with me in 100 degree weather on the side of the highway for hours while waiting on a tow and a family member to come get us since we couldn't ride in the tow truck. After reading forums online, hundreds if not thousands of caliber owners have had the same issue. Some had cars that were only two weeks old! i would like to request an investigation and hopefully a recall happen.
Almost a year ago my 2007 dodge caliber sxt started jerking back and forth and felt like it was going to die. The electronic throttle body light came on but as soon as i slowed down, the light went off. I called my local dealership and told them about the problem. They stated that if the light in the dashboard wasn't staying on they could not get a code from the car but i could bring it in and they could try it anyways for $105. I took it someone i know and they read the code off of it, 2120 p2110, i called the dealership back and told them the code. They told me that they would have to run their own tests and charge me to see what was happening but if there was no light than they couldn't do anything. I asked them if this is dangerous to drive then because i have a baby in the car. They said no, as long as i can pull over fast enough to restart the car. Last friday, the car started to do it again and i was on the highway with my 2 yr old in the car. My car started loosing power and the car behind me almost hit me so i turned around and got my fiance's car. When i tried to take it to the dealership the next morning the car would not go above 2000 rpms and so i drive 10 mph all the way through the city (i got up to 30 mph down hills). I think that all of this is dangerous and having dealerships telling people that they cannot fix the problem is crazy! the dealership now wants to replace my entire throttle body and i am wondering if a replacement would have been avoided if they would have looked at the car last year!
Dash light not working at night. Can't see speedometer at night
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, the low beam headlights failed without warning. The contact also stated that she drove with the high beams while driving at night, however, eventually over a period of 3 years all of the exterior lights including the brake lights had failed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and was diagnosed that the tipm module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 58,000.
My mechanic has told me that the ticm total integrated control module needs replaced that it will cost $900.00 plus tax to do this. I have searched on line and seen that several other people have this same issue with their 2007 dodge caliber. This needs to be a recall matter if so many people are having the same problem. I had to replace the eac electronic accelerator control less than a year ago that may have been due to the issue with the ticm as well.
Low beam headlight don't work. Dealer ask for tipm replacement (9fuse box). Noticed that this problem with too many. It is a design failure. Should recall and fix or reimburse to everyone.additional information are athttp://www.cargurus.com/cars/discussion-t24900_ds494668.
I was driving and my passenger low-beam headlight went out, so i went and bought a new headlight, upon installing it, it still didn't work, but the high beam did. Took it to dodge to see if they could figure it out and was told it's a known issue with calibers and certain jeeps, the tipm went bad on it and it would be almost $1000 to repair it, for a known issue that dodge knows about but hasn't been recalled! 2 weeks later, my highbeam even went out on the passenger side, so now the car is sitting parked, unable to drive with improper lighting & tipm problems!
Tpim malfunction, affecting headlights and dashboard lighting.
Car will randomly start shaking like there is barely any power. I have had to replace the alternator twice. Numerous throttle issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred i was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. Now the air bag light in the cluster constantly turns off and on and beeps while the car is shaking.
While driving my car at night my right headlight went out,replaced bulb and discovered new bulb does not work,problem was diagnosed as a bad totally integrated power module,so a $20.00 lamp turned into a costly $1200.00 repair, what if all lights went out? as i investigated this issue it is very common on chrysler/dodge vehicles, this occurrence of failure can and will be a danger if you encounter failure whiling driving at night and lose all lights or other components, i believe chrysler /dodge should be held accountable for this failure in their design of this necessary component in their vehicles and a safety recall should be ordered! thank you
I noticed that my left (driver side) headlight was out. So i replaced the bulb, which would be the obvious reason for the light not working. However, this did not fix the issue. After further inspection and discussion with a mechanic, it turns out it's the timp that is bad and causing the driver side headlight not to work. In addition, after doing more research online it appears that this issue is more than common with the 2007 dodge caliber. I can't see how a recall has not already been filed for this issue given it is a huge safety hazard if one's headlights don't work at night. In addition, it causes someone to be pulled over.
I was driving to work going up a hill when the car shook a little and started to decelerate. I noticed there was a blinking symbol on the dash of a lightning bolt between two lines. I was not able to accelerate fast enough to keep my speed going up the hill, and decelerated very quickly. Anytime i was at a stop light it took about 5 seconds before i was even able to move forward. During the 5 seconds, the car seemed like it was going tostall at the intersection. Once i reached work i looked up the light in the owners manual and found it to be an electronic control light. I tried turning off the car and turning it back on only to realize that nothing had changed. This could easily cause an accident and from what i understand there is no fix, only theories.
At 200 miles, my car's engine started to rattle and my power lock had a short.i called and called the dealership until 1000 miles later they checked the problem.they gave me an excuse for the motor rattling was that there was such thing as winter and summer fuel and that i should change gasoline stations and brands to see if that would correct the problem. I followed their instructions and went practically all over town gashing up.i just had it checked again at 1527 miles, the noise got worst. The motor rattles when i accelerate and when it also reaches the regular temperature. In the morning when my engine is still cold it doesn't rattle but as soon as it reaches the regular temperature it starts rattling. My motor rattles a lot worst. Yesterday at 1430 miles as i was waiting for the light to turn green, my car was going to stall. My rpm gauge went down and then went back up.i got the same excuse once again that it was the type of fuel and that there existed no repair for this problem. The service manager said "the car is working the way it was designed" and "it is all through computers now, dodge fixes the problems and sends us the software and we hook up to your car. In the mean time, there is no repair available and it will eventually get repaired". The only thing they did was add a mopar fuel additive but i still hear the noise.i have used regular, mid-grade, and premium and used different stations and fuel companies and the problem still exists. The rattling is so bad that not even with the ac full blast can you tune it out. As far as the power lock is concerned it was repaired, they said it had a short. The bad thing is that there are no other power locks but the only one on the driver side.as far as safety is concerned,you are unable to open the rear passenger doors or the rear door, as they have no power locks you have to do this manually. Ihad to teach my child to pull on the lock in order to open the door in the mean time this got fixed.
The driver's side headlight stopped working after flickering on and off for a few weeks. I checked the wiring, changed the bulb, checked for loose connections and all fine. Did some research and found that the totally integrated power module (tipm) is the cause. It appears from what i have seen that numerous people who have calibers and pt cruisers have experienced the problem. The two ways i have seen to fix this is to buy a new tipm for $500-$800 dollars, not installed, or rewire it to the passenger light which may cause a fire. This is totally unacceptable! to rely on a $500-$800 part to make sure a headlight works? dodge needs to be forced to recall the part or provide owners available options at cheaper rates! this is very poor and i hope that nhtsa will assists the 1,000's of owners who are experincing this problem. Thank you!
I have had constant problems with this car.my key abruptly stopped working last year and i have to pay $500 because the dealership said the computer could no longer recognized my key so i had to get a new one.my gear shaft began to jam and i had to pay $200 to get a chip replaced because it was shot.now my totally incorporated power module was shot today when i took it to get checked at the dealership today.the cost is estimated to be $1150.i am sick and tired of all the problems this car is presenting in my life.
The lights behind the dash went out without warning. There is no way to see speed in the dark. There are many existing cases online. Dodge immediately recognized the issue when called and was not concerned about safety issue.
2007 dodge caliber. The tipm box is malfunctioned, and continues to be. This is an issue associated with the stock, factory tipm box.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that when the vehicle was started, the instrument panel failed to illuminate. The failure recurred numerous times. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the led lights needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 110,000. The vin was unavailable. Updated 04/03/15*ljupdated 9/20/2017
Started vehicle which had been running perfectly fine, just got a oil change a few days prior. Started driving and the car starts sputtering like it was going to die. The etc symbol started to flash and car would only go 5-10 mph when this happened i was already driving at 40mph when the car just started to slow down to the 5 miles and sputter.
First my car started to sound like a dryer full of ball bearings the ball bearingthe oem ones in the alternator went out. There is no replacement pulley so the whole alternator had to be replaced $600+ (found out this is a common problem in 2007 dodge calibers)then while pulling out of the parking lot my tire fell off due to faulty/worn-out i ball joints and upper and lower control arms.. Had to replace the entire front end suspension $1400+! (this is a major complaint as i have found online. I have read over 200 different complaint statements) not to mention my abs light was on and they had to change out my speed sensor 100 +.then my ck engine light came on 2 weeks after the entire front end suspension was replaced when i drove the car it would shake and acted like it was losing power & would not let me accelerate past 35 mph. I took it in it had several stored codes. One was then intake manifold was stuck and the other was the camshaft.. They cleared it out and only the manifold came back up so they said i had to replace that. We did $800 + i picked it up & a day later it was doing the same thing now saying multi. Cylinder misfire & camshaft they cleared it and test drove it but it did not come back on so the dodge tech. Has no clue what to do to fix it & no clue on the cost ( this has also been a problem on 2007 dodge calibers) this has all happened within the last 3 months and my car has about 86000 to 87000 mi on it! i?m fed up this car is falling apart. As i have read dodge knows of these issues & has done nothing about it i have also called and made my complaint no call back yet..any open lawsuits on this?i would even be happy if dodge would reimburse me for these issues as obviously they are well documented known issues. I have spent way to much on this car in 3 months and @ 7 months pregnant with a 6 year old i need a safe reliable car!
In november the low beam on my driver's side went out. I had the bulb changed, disconnected/reconnected the battery and works fine.earlier this month the passenger's low beam went out.i have changed the bulb, disconnected/reconnected the battery (just like last time) but this time still no low beam.i took it to a local mechanic that said it was the tipm (totally integrated power module) that sells for $467 but no one has them available (i've contacted the local dealerships & on line).now here's the problem - i've gotten a ticket for lights out and for driving with high beams on. So what do i do? chrysler's inferior quality equipment (based on the hundreds of complaints of the same problem) is now costing me money and i can't get it fixed because they don't have the part available.
I had the car for a year and when i went to get my annual inspection, the inspection place stated the car computer chip is not able to read.
I bought my caliber last october and not even a month after having it i realized my left tail light and my middle break light didnt work so i bought bulbs and replaced them and they still didnt work and then my left headlight quit working so i had it looked at and they said that i need a whole new tipm computer and it would cost 1200 dollars that in which i dont have so i am not happy at all with this vehicle ... This is very dangerous and can cause me to be ticketed for something that could have been prevented or dodge can fix for me the tipm computer needs to be recalled asap.!
I recently purchased the vehicle from the original owner. The vehicle light flashes while driving. The mileage is currently 91k miles. Now the lightening bolt symbol will not turn off and the vehicle will not accelerate over 39 miles. I have not been able to drive the vehicle for over a week.
Driver's side headlight is out. Got the tipm replaced for $700+. That's way too expensive for a headlight.
My 2007 dodge caliber stalls out while i'm driving.it has 50,000 miles on the speedometer and i purchased it used last sept 2009.the problem occurred about 5 times before i decided to take it to a local mechanic to have a diagnostic test run.the dashboard warning signal would come on signifying "electronic throttle control". This issue has come upin different driving conditions but usually in the first 15mins of driving.usually i am at a stop and then when i attempt to accelerate , the car dies.it starts right back up but,because i lose power, i'm forced to pull over in traffic unexpectedly.this is a definite safety concern for me.the vehicle will be at the dodge dealership tomorrow so that their mechanics can look it over.i have been in touch with chrysler at 800-853-1403 and have been told this issue has not been reported as a problem/trend.
Our car was purchased used two years ago and always had an issue with hesitation with both acceleration and idling after completely filling the gas tank. Last week it started having the same hesitation/sputtering issue but without having recently filled up the gas tank. It sputters/hesitates to accelerate while going anywhere between 20-30 mph (we did not take it on the freeway out of fearing it would die going faster so we are unsure how it does at higher speeds). It also started to stall while idling at a stop light. It started up again fine both times it died but continued to hesitate while accelerating. Our radio hasn't come on a few times when we start the car (this has happened approximately ten times since we've had the car) and the fuse is fine. We pop the fuse out and put it back in and the radio starts up fine again. We are taking it to a mechanic on saturday to have the system "updated" because we saw there was a bulletin about our model of car needing an update, but i'm fairly sure this has to do with the tipm after reading other people's stories online.
I own a 2007 dodge caliber sxt. Back in march of this year, the driver's side headlight went out. After replacing the bulb, it still did not work. I looked online for some potential enlightenment as to why and found a multitude of message boards and consumer websites stating this is a common problem with the 2007 dodge calibers. It starts with losing a headlight and then escalates to loss of power to the headlights, blinkers, hazard lights, windshield wipers, and sometimes the heating/cooling system and/or radio. Initially, in march, i hadn't experienced that yet. Today, i was driving through a city at approximately 30mph when i went to take a turn and noticed my right blinker wasn't working, so i tried the blinker for the left. That too was not working. Neither were my hazard lights or windshield wipers. I was far from home and afraid to shut the car off, for fear it would not restart so i kept driving home cautiously, trying not to change lanes. It began pouring rain and i was on the highway. I had no headlights, no wipers, and no blinkers or hazards to signal i was going over into the breakdown lane. Once in the breakdown lane, i was not easily visible to the other cars speeding by because of the amount of rain and the fact that i had no hazard lights to rely on. I could easily have been hit or hit someone else while trying to navigate through the rain to safety with no working blinkers, hazards, headlights, or wipers! the worst part is, this is a startlingly common issue with the year, make, and model and dodge is not offering a recall for this issue with the tipm (totally integrated power module), where the problem is stemming from. The dealership wants to charge me $99 for diagnostics and then over $1,000 for a new tipm. I want to start a class action lawsuit to get dodge to recall all of the vehicles having these safety issues caused by the tipm failure!!!!
The dealer has had my vehicle a total of 27 days not including the days it is currently at the dealership in 6 occurrences. All occurrences have been electrical problems. Because of the severity of the problems my wife does not any longer feel safe driving the car with my children fearing it will either leave her stranded or even worse catch on fire while driving it.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the battery warning indicator light illuminated and the flash and hazard lights malfunctioned.the dealer reprogrammed the computer; however, the failure continued.the dealer was unable to determine the cause of the failure.the current mileage was 42,000 and failure mileage was 25,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 25-30 mph, the contact stated that the accelerator pedal became stuck when it was depressed and the vehicle accelerated up to 80 mph. When the contact applied the brakes, the vehicle did not slow down. The steering wheel would not move and the gear shift lever would not shift into park. When she applied the emergency brake, the vehiclespun over a sidewalk into a parking lot. The identical failure occurred when she attempted to restart the vehicle; therefore,she towed the vehicle to an authorized dealer. Two months prior to the failure, the keys became stuck in the ignition for thirty minutes. The dealer had not informed the contact what caused the failure to occur. The contact stated that she experienced headaches and neck pain after the failure occurred. The current and failure mileages were approximately 60,000.
The dealer has had my vehicle a total of 27 days not including the days it is currently at the dealership in 6 occurrences. All occurrences have been electrical problems. Because of the severity of the problems my wife does not any longer feel safe driving the car with my children fearing it will either leave her stranded or even worse catch on fire while driving it.
2007 dodge caliber 1.8 liter 5 speedstalls at idle in traffic or when coasting to a stop. When this happens power steering and brakes no longer work. I took it to the dealer and they found nothing. I almost ran into a wall the last time it stalled there is no warning, like you shut of the key.it will restart no problem but there is a potential for a rear end crash at stop lights.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While parked, the vehicle was not able to start and the ignition assembly burned. An independent mechanic diagnosed that the ignition assembly needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 144,000.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber.i can remove the key from the ignition without putting the car in "park". This allows the car to roll when it is not on.this is a safety concern, as i have on multiple occasions exited the car, at which time it begins to roll away.there is currently a recall for certain 2010 chrysler products (nhtsa campaign #10v200000).i believe this should be extended to include 2007, if not the years in between as well.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 40 mph, the subframe fractured on the vehicle. In addition, the contact replaced the tires on three occasions and the rear wheel bearings were replaced three times. Furthermore, the ignition switch caught fire. The contact extinguished the fire. The vehicle was towed and repaired by a dealer and an independent mechanic. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 162,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 65 mph, the vehicle made an abnormal noise and the vehicle stalled. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the ignition switch needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vin was not available. The failure mileage was 92,000...updated 02/11/15
The vehicle has had the ignition switch slip from "on" to "accessory" twice in the last few years.the first time was on i-95 just north of richmond, va.i was driving, shifted my knee (with a long keychain), and the switch slipped.i was unable to control the car at that point.i hit the emergency lights button and tried to re-start the car.i was able to re-start the car and continue driving without accident or injury.the second time was on edwards mill road in raleigh, nc.at that point, i was not driving with the longer keychain, but a shorter one with only four keys, and the switch slipped again.because it had happened before, i knew what i needed to do was to re-start the car, and i was able to do so successfully without accident or injury.because at the time, i didn't think much of it, and because i had no concept that it could have been a bigger issue, and because there was no accident, i did not stop to write down or remember the dates/times of these incidents.i know that the first incident was at night; the second incident was during the day.i remember where i was because i have a photographic memory; however, because i didn't stop to look at the date or time then or later, i don't recall exact dates and times.my best guess, based on my travel schedule through richmond, va, is that it took place within the last three years, and then the second incident sometime after that.i thought nothing of these incidents even when the gm recalls started happening, because it wasn't a gm vehicle.however, the other day, i read that chrysler vehicles were being recalled for this issue, and something triggered my memory with the switch slips.i wanted to provide this information and notice so that a decision could be made about investigating other chrysler models, as well as to provide notice to the company of an issue.
My 2007 dodge caliber has anoff idle hesitation when you start to pull a way from a stop light, the car also has a cracking/snapping sound coming from the lower right corner of the windshield when going over small bumps or cracks in the road this accrues at any speed the car also makes a rattling noise when it is first started and continues until the car warms up,this happens in warm or cool temperatures, also the rear door speakersare rattling and i do not listen to loud music the car has 7500 miles on it.
The dealer has had my vehicle a total of 27 days not including the days it is currently at the dealership in 6 occurrences. All occurrences have been electrical problems. Because of the severity of the problems my wife does not any longer feel safe driving the car with my children fearing it will either leave her stranded or even worse catch on fire while driving it.
2007 dodge caliber.consumer writes in regards to crossmember recall and electrical wire damages.the consumer stated after the vehicle was taken to the dealer, 19 days later it was discovered the engine cover was missing. Which resulted in rodents accessing the electrical wires and chewing them.
The dealer has had my vehicle a total of 27 days not including the days it is currently at the dealership in 6 occurrences. All occurrences have been electrical problems. Because of the severity of the problems my wife does not any longer feel safe driving the car with my children fearing it will either leave her stranded or even worse catch on fire while driving it.
The dealer has had my vehicle a total of 27 days not including the days it is currently at the dealership in 6 occurrences. All occurrences have been electrical problems. Because of the severity of the problems my wife does not any longer feel safe driving the car with my children fearing it will either leave her stranded or even worse catch on fire while driving it.
My 2007 dodge caliber has anoff idle hesitation when you start to pull a way from a stop light, the car also has a cracking/snapping sound coming from the lower right corner of the windshield when going over small bumps or cracks in the road this accrues at any speed the car also makes a rattling noise when it is first started and continues until the car warms up,this happens in warm or cool temperatures, also the rear door speakersare rattling and i do not listen to loud music the car has 7500 miles on it.
The tips is shorting out. Going to cost 2200 to fix. This is a recall in other vehicles around the same year. Why does it not apply to the caliber. Seems to be an issue. Looked into several forums with same issue that keeps popping up.
I was sitting at a stop sign when my abs and engine light started flashing and this annoying dinging started i made a left turn and my tires would be out of control making me think i was having a steering problem ,just parking would be a problem and this annoying sound would stay on until u park the car this was done on a highway i was told by a dodge dealership that it was my abs module and that it needed to be replaced so i check for a recall and find out there are recalls for the same make model and year on a lot of other cars but not my vin#.
I have had issues with this vehicle such as the o2 sensors that has to be repaired every year. The safety issues with this vehicle if you are at stop sign or just idle in traffic- the engine light will begin to blink and the car begins to move back and forth..also, it constantly over heats after much repairs- these symptoms continue to persist-the gentleman at good year told me that some of your parts o2 sensor was recalled- failed to get assistance from chrysler- the overheating is annoying- i can not drive over 45 miles without over heating. I had to pull over at the exit while other cars- with incoming traffic was coming very fast and the car is in motion on the highway with other drivers- because the car begins to pull - i have to pull over so that the engine can cool down- ..sometimes in traffic- the abs light will come on and begin to shift gears in traffic- this happens occasionally.the safety issues are engine overheats, start jerking back and forth at stop signs or just being idle in traffic, occasionally just shift acceleration in the middle of traffic.th most recent incident was last night- i had to pull over- car started jerking- it overheated- 07-19-2017i am filing another complaint- called chrysler said that i had to pay for the diagnostic testing on something that is their manufacturer fault.
Started vehicle which had been running perfectly fine, just got a oil change a few days prior. Started driving and the car starts sputtering like it was going to die. The etc symbol started to flash and car would only go 5-10 mph when this happened i was already driving at 40mph when the car just started to slow down to the 5 miles and sputter.
My car horn, lights, power windowswill not work and the car will not start the car stopped without warning and my lights when off. Now the car does not turn on at all after getting a tow truck to my mechanic he stated that my power train module needed to be re program but he could not do it so i had to get another tow truck to take the car to the dealer which told me i have to replace my tipm @ $1700. Plus tax. Too expensive this s/b cover by dodge this was scary for my car to stopped while i was driving i could have kill myself and someone elsei already paid over $200. In tow trucks
Tipm-, battery terminals/holds downs, tbody.i found these issues and went to the dealer in relation to these problems after i had done my investigation. They saw me with the information i had, and began to run in theother direction.i told them what was wrong with the vehicle. I just had surgery and was inhaling the carbon from the vehicle. This is a major electrical issue and cad light problem. The vehicle only goes 20 mph. Chrysler released this vehicle to its customers for loan or purchase with a faulty design in place. Chrysler knew of this and proceeded to sale this vehicle in an order to make money and not looking at the risk that we as customers would be taking as well as them. Chrysler didn't even bother to have a recall for this issue. I as a consumer feel cheated and want to be compensated for my loss. The vehicle is not in drive mode and i am not risking the life my son and i for this major mistake on their part.
The front end makes all kinds of noises. Locks dont work cant open trunk.head lights work when they want to.
For the second time this year, i have lost all headlights, air conditioning, engine dying randomly while driving, safety lights flashing and beeping on dashboard.the tipm module is going out again. This part is nearly $1,000 and only a dodge dealership is able to fix this issue.there are issues worldwide with this same part in multiple dodge cars since 2007 and nothing has been done to fix this issue
I have 2007 dodge caliber and was driving the electrical system was make the car shut down all my lights andsignal lights was not working. I was on the expressway and my signal lights or nothing was working.
My car will as i'm driving cut off lose all power starts shaking jerking and won'tabove 5to7 miles an hour happens all time driving with my kids from school it does on freeway very unsafe almost got rear-ended a couple times very scary
Low beam headlight on passenger side will not turn on but the high beam works fine. Have checked wiring and fuses and it seems to be the tipm.took into a shop and they said that it is the tipm telling the light not to turn on so in other words its a bad tipm. I was made aware that the part would be close to $1200. I've researched this issue online and i see that it is a very common issue. I am now starting to have issues with what i think is a bearing gone bad, still trying to determine this.today as i was almost home, my charge system light came on.when i got home, so turned car off and let it sit a few minutes, turned the car back and no issues.the 2007 dodge caliber seems to have issues.i wrote to dodge about the headlamp issues with no resolution or that they acknowledge there is an issue.from reading the forums today, it seems my lights or issues may get worse and possibly loose my life or cause a horrible wreck before all of this over.dodge needs to take the responsibility for all of these issues and recall them so we are not out the huge sums of money that is required to fix this.i am currently unemployed and no unemployment compensation as of yet, i am afraid my once reliable car will just quit on me one day when i least expect or cause lose of life.
Totally integrated power module problems.having all kinds of cascading electrical problems with this car with only 70k miles.driver's side low beam will no longer work.engine intermittently stops/starts.acceleration issues, etc.chrysler wants over a $1,000.00 to address this issue, and the replacement tipm would likely fail in similar manner shortly thereafter.extremely unsafe car day or night.
My car started making a noise and idling high last year.it started cutting itself off and eventually it wouldn't start.i replaced the alternator and battery. Now less than a year later 2014, the low lights don't work and it is starting to make the same noise and cut itself off.now i'm being told its the total integrated power module.
I had an accident on friday, january 18, 2015. The car in front of me put on brakes, and i was a distance away from the car in front of me when i put on brakes as well. However, when i attempted to brake, it would not brake normally as a car should. Also, there was no anti-lock brake that kicked in. In addition, the airbags did not deploy in this vehicle. My car is totaled. Thankfully, i was able to walk away. There is something wrong with the brakes on this vehicle. I always felt like that. However, the experience that i had with this accident was confirmation for me.
I am not sure if this is the correct category as far as the elec.sability controlthe manual refers to it as the electronic throttle control when the light comes on.i have noticed that there is a recall for 2007 dodge calibers with this problem, but for some reason my vin/vehicle is not included in the recall as well as many many others with the same problem. I am thinking they do not know who to notify because if they did you would have several complaint at this time.my 2007 dodge caliber has caused me problems and unsafe moments for sometime now.the vehicle will sometimes start with the electronic throttle control light on right off the bat other times you could be cruising over a bridge and it will come on and decide to go 2 mph if even that.i had an incident with my grandbaby where we were turning left across a lane of traffic and the car decided to go 1-2 mph it was a good thing that the on coming traffic was out there far enough for us to get across. I have not and will not drive the car since.i still have a car payment and insurance payment but cannot use the vehicle.i have been keeping up with the people on line and there is quiet a few that has had several scary situation like myself.there has been ones who have taken the vehicle in and the repair shop said there was nothing wrong.......thenback out on the road they go and the problem happens again.one of these times someone will be crossing a very busy highway and could get in a bad wreck and die? we need your help????
I have had this problem since the beginning of ownership. The car won't start, i have had so many batteries thinking this was the problem.the car won't start even with a new battery or the battery will have to be replaced within months.i plan to go somewhere and can't because it won't start...like right now.i haven't been able to start it in days.sometimes by wiggling the wires i can start it but now it is so bad it won't start.
I own a 2007 dodge caliber r/t witch i purchased new. After the first 4 months of owning this vehicle. I noticed that every bump i hit, the car would sway back and forth on the road and noticed the stability was not good at all, even though i have the stability system program feature. I proceeded to take it in to the dealer and have it looked at. They assured me that it was fine. I just needed tires. I replaced all 4 tires and still had the same problem. So i brought the car in again and they then replaced the sway bar links and struts. I still have the same problem so i brought it in again and the dealer said it was fine. It is not fine! it is very dangerous and hard to control on a road that is not perfectly paved especially in rainy weather and winter months this vehicle has very bad traction and could cause an accident if unable to control, which i am trying to prevent from happening.i have spoken to other dodge caliber owners and they seem to have the same problem.now i'm experiencing water running into my car every time i turn on the ac or heat and hot water running on my foot while driving whenever i turn a corner. I would greatly appreciate if this matter is investigated and resolved.thank you
Drove home from work parked my car next morning it wouldn't start.had battery power and cranked when i turned the key but would not kick over to start. Towed to mechanic.he said there wasn't anything wrong with it, he cleaned the spark plugs, weather warmed up and car worked again.this happened twice, he stated i needed to take it to dodge dealership to have the computer reprogrammed (that this was a common problem for my car type)two days later, driving to work all the lights went on and the steering froze, not able to turn left or right. I was able to exit and park car without incident now having it towed to dealership.
Four four months now my car has intermittently experienced electrical failures including stuttering, dashboard lights flashing on and off, windshield wipers coming on their own and total shutdown all while the car is in motion at varying speeds. I have had my alternator replaced twice, my battery replaced and my spark plugs changed out. I have researched and am fairly certain it is my tipm which is a common problem for my make and model of car that dodge has decided isn't worth their time to fix. I have almost crashed multiple times due to the random failure of my tipm and thusly find it unsafe to drive my vehicle anymore.
My front head lights are not working it has to to do with the fuse box that is locate under the the bumper ,that it get wetand the snow and salt through the years .i have to drive my car doing the day only .the fuse box is corroded it .
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that during a routine check-up, it was noticed that the rear subframe of the vehicle was rusted from the inside out. The contact also stated that the engine made a lot of noise. The contact called shottenkirk chrysler jeep dodge at 888-344-9954 (located at 2301 e washington st, mount pleasant, ia 52641) andwas referred to the manufacturer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failures and stated that there was no recall. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 177,000.
Driving on the highway at 70 mph and car transmission temperature light came on and the power to the car declined to a coast and i had to try and pull to the shoulder in heavy traffic with snow on the road which almost caused me to get hit by other vehicles going the speed of 70 mph. This has happened numerous times i have taken it in to the dealer whom recommended that i have the transmission service done by the dealer which i paid for and complied to have performed. It continued to happen and still looses power going highway speed of 65. I have taken it to the dealer over and over and they deny any liability and say everything is ok. I have the lifetime powertrain warranty on the vehicle. I am going to end up dead thanks to a faulty transmission in the car. It has never towed anything so no stress is ever applied to the transmission. Now i am pissed because my wife was almost hit when she was driving it on the highway during rush hour and it reduced poweron her. I have paperwork showing the dealer checking it and saying it is ok not to mention the numerous times i have gone in and they say they have heard nothing regarding problems with the caliber. If you look on line there are plenty of us citizens that are plaqued with this same problem.......updated 12/03/15updated 11/13/2017
When in cruise control at between 70-75 mph and going up a long incline (cajon pass) the electrical light comes on and the car quits running, and to date starts again after losing about 5mph after several heartbeats. This has been happening intermittently since the car was new with less than 6000 miles on it.
The engine cradle has rusted through. I understand that there has been recalls in particular states to repair this issue on this model of car. I have replaced struts and all drive train with all new parts and the slamming is still present. Repair shop identified the engine cradle after removing and replacing all components and finding the rusted out balls joints in the engine cradle as the source of the issue.
I was driving to work going up a hill when the car shook a little and started to decelerate. I noticed there was a blinking symbol on the dash of a lightning bolt between two lines. I was not able to accelerate fast enough to keep my speed going up the hill, and decelerated very quickly. Anytime i was at a stop light it took about 5 seconds before i was even able to move forward. During the 5 seconds, the car seemed like it was going tostall at the intersection. Once i reached work i looked up the light in the owners manual and found it to be an electronic control light. I tried turning off the car and turning it back on only to realize that nothing had changed. This could easily cause an accident and from what i understand there is no fix, only theories.
I see that gm has finally issued a recall for their engines stalling and i'm wondering if chrysler ever will be held accountable for the same thing?there 2007 dodge caliber stalls with a flashing left light, which has been reported to chrysler, the nhtsa, and transport canada on numerous occasions but nothing is ever done about it.consumers are just left to fend for themselves and it's completely unacceptable.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at low speeds and attempting to accelerate, the engine stalled without warning. The failure recurred intermittently. The vehicle was able to restart. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 71,000.
After two recent gas fill ups, two separate times while driving at a very low speed and once more from a stop, the car stalled out.the second time that it stalled from a slow speed it stalled two or three times within a five minute timeframe.car was purchased and built in 2006, the same time that other dodge and chrysler vehicles have been known to do this.
Upon start up the service engine light came on.i checked the gas cap and that did not correct the problem.after 2 or 3 days the light was still on.i decided to take it in to the dealer to have it looked at. After running a diagnostic they determined that the problem was a faulty intake manifold. Which they told me wasn't covered under warranty.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that after adding oil to the vehicle, the empty oil warning indicator illuminated. The contact mentioned that the vehicle was filled with oil, but the oil indicator falsely illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 106,000. The vin was not provided.
On nov. 22, 2016 i was driving to work at 6:00 am. My caliber started making a hissing noise, after about 2 minutes of this the engine shut off and i lost all electric power. The car was towed to the shop and the starter was replaced. 2 weeks later the same thing happened. This time nothing was replaced, due to the car starting at the garage. Again on dec. 20 the same thing with the exception of i was on my way home. The started was again replaced. This recurred on jan 9, 2017. The started was replaced again. It happened again on jan. 20, again the starter has been replaced. According to the mechanic, they cannot find anything else wrong. This is a serious safety issue. Luckily i haven't been driving at a high rate of speed, but if this would occur at 65 or 70 mph it could cause serious problems. After doing some research on-line, i have found several other complaints about this problem.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that when driving 50 mph and above, the vehicle would overheat and decelerate without any warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who was unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 130,000 and the current mileage was 150,000. The vin was not available.
Driving on interstate 55 back to peoria,il . Car interior and dash lights flashing and surging. Smelt something burning. Car died, lucky got to shoulder of freeway. Had it towed from pontiac, il. To firestone in peoria,il.diagnosis, hole in a/c compressor(possible pistons blew through casing), shorted starter, fried battery
I was driving and the car stalled out and a car almost hit me.i found out later that the throttle body messed up and shut may car down.. Dodge should really recall this.
My engine stalls when at stop light/signs. This happens after refueling the car. I heard of other chrysler/dodge models that have had the same problem that are being investigated though my car is notthe same engine or years being looked at. Engine is 2.4 l. It does this for up to about 10 times and i can keep it running in neutral and revving the engine. Not sure of the date that i first notices this but has been happening for about a year or so. Mileage and date are from latest time.
While driving earlier this month, my car suddenly slowed down to 15 mph and went into limp mode. I could barely get the speed up to 35 mph and keep it at 35 to get the car home. After calling a local auto shop and two area dealerships (go dodge arapahoe and christopher's dodge world), i came to discover that the throttle body was worn. The representative from the shop said that this is something he has often seen. Indeed, after doing some research on caliber forums, it seems that this happens very frequently to 2007 calibers. This is an extremely dangerous problem that is happening very frequently in 2007 dodge calibers. Someone could get hurt or killed if their car suddenly slows to 15-35 mph with no warning. It is dangerous, irresponsible, and immoral for chrysler to continue to allow people to drive the 2007 calibers with the knowledge that these cars are equipped with a faulty piece of equipment that causes the car to rapidly decelerate.
I have had issues with this vehicle such as the o2 sensors that has to be repaired every year. The safety issues with this vehicle if you are at stop sign or just idle in traffic- the engine light will begin to blink and the car begins to move back and forth..also, it constantly over heats after much repairs- these symptoms continue to persist-the gentleman at good year told me that some of your parts o2 sensor was recalled- failed to get assistance from chrysler- the overheating is annoying- i can not drive over 45 miles without over heating. I had to pull over at the exit while other cars- with incoming traffic was coming very fast and the car is in motion on the highway with other drivers- because the car begins to pull - i have to pull over so that the engine can cool down- ..sometimes in traffic- the abs light will come on and begin to shift gears in traffic- this happens occasionally.the safety issues are engine overheats, start jerking back and forth at stop signs or just being idle in traffic, occasionally just shift acceleration in the middle of traffic.th most recent incident was last night- i had to pull over- car started jerking- it overheated- 07-19-2017i am filing another complaint- called chrysler said that i had to pay for the diagnostic testing on something that is their manufacturer fault.
The vehicle shut down the air condition was still blowing but the acceleration lost power! i noticed the odometer was no longer displaying or working when i shut car off and turned back on! i was leaving my neighborhood residential area coming to a stop.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 70 mph, the abs seized as the rpm's increased. The abs warning light illuminated. The vehicle was towed to coughlin marysville chrysler jeep dodge ram (15777 watkins rd, marysville, oh 43040 (937) 642-9000) where the diagnostic test informed to replace the battery. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 110,000.
While driving home from the airport on the highway, my car shut down unexpectedly.my electronic throttle light along with my check engine light came on.my power steering and power brakes seemed not to function as i had to muscle the car to the side of the road.thank goodness it was late at night and traffic was at a minimum.the car sputtered so bad it shut down on the road after i pulled over.after about 15 minutes, i started the car and limped it home.couldn't get the car to do more than 10mph.used my flashers the entire way home.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while approaching a stop at a low speed, the vehicle stalled. The contact was able to restart the vehicle. The oil pressure warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to multiple independent mechanics who diagnosed that the fuel pump, spark plugs, oil gasket, oil pan, vapor canister purge solenoid, engine management sensor and other parts needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired however, the failure recurred on numerous occasions. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.
My car will as i'm driving cut off lose all power starts shaking jerking and won'tabove 5to7 miles an hour happens all time driving with my kids from school it does on freeway very unsafe almost got rear-ended a couple times very scary
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 15 mph, the power steering failed almost causing a crash. The contact stated that the engine cradle was severely rusted, as well as the driver's side ball joint. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 65,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 55 mph, the horn independently activated and the steering wheel seized. All the warning lights on the instrument cluster illuminated and the gauges and meters provided inaccurate readings. The vehicle stalled as it veered into a ditch. In addition, the contact noticed smoke underneath the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 129,023.
This has happened many times before yesterday. While driving on the freeway, the check engine light comes on, and the car go into a "limp" mode (very little power), and even at full pedal, it slowly slows down. Having had it happen several times before, i learned to pull over, and shut off the car, and let it set for a few minutes. Sometimes times this is not easy, or safe to do. Then it is hard to restart, but will drive somewhat better. This allows me to get to a place that i can shut it off for an extended amount of time (1/2 hour), and then it runs more like normal, but the check engine light stay on for several days. After the check engine light goes out, it is running normal again until the next time. So far, this has not caused an accident, but i'm sure somebody will be hurt or killed before this gets recalled. Good luck follow drivers.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving various speeds, the vehicle stalled and the electronic throttle control failed. The failure had occurred on several occasions with the electronic throttle control warning indicator blinking on the instrument panel. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, but the failure could not be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 155,000.
Car is hard to start cranks very slow and there is a tapping sound like a bad lifter upon starting but goes away when the car warms up. The wheel bearings had to be replaced. Alignment was way off and tires had to be replaced. Brakes have to be replaced. There is a hollow noise from the rear of the vehicle. After jacking the car up to check that sound out the rear passenger wheel would not come off the ground. After replacing the front wheel bearings and new tires the car now shakes and vibrates in the front end. The car has been at the repair center for 10 days on and off. This last time it has been there for 6 days and counting. These vehicles are unsafe for the road and should be recalled and taken off the road permanently. There are way too many problems with these vehicles and the manufacturer will not do anything about it. Nhtsa needs to step up and hold the manufacturer accountable before someone gets seriously injured or killed. Do not wait until there is a fatality! action needs to be taken now!
Tipm module does not power lights to see while driving and led to power drains. Led to complete loss of power on highway.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 30 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The contact stated that the failure occurred twice on july 18, 2019 and occurred for at least four months. The vehicle was towed to lakeland chrysler dodge (2875 mall hill dr, lakeland, fl 33810), but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 165,000.
This is my third time that this car has not started. For no reason with a new battery it won't turn on and has no power at all. No power to the lights, locks, radio or dash. Now it has low power and when it's turned off with no key in the ignition it's making a ticking noise every 30 seconds. I have to wait again to get this jumped and i want out of this vehicle. I've replaced the battery twice in this car within 10 months and the fuse box doesn't work for the right headlight. I don't know how to get out of this car without the dealership coming after me.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated while driving 25, mph the vehicle lunged forward violently then stalled after the check engine light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a dealer for diagnosis and the contact was notified that the pcm would need to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired but the failure recurred. The contact also mentioned that the failure recurred and was taken to the dealer several times. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure and current mileage was 65,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that during routine maintenance, it was informed by the independent mechanic that the sub frame had corroded and it was unsafe to drive the vehicle. The engine warning light had illuminated. The vehicle was not repaired. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 125,978.
I was told by meineke that my engine's subframe was so corroded that the car was unsafe to drive.the mechanic told me that it was very unusual for a car this young to have a corroded subframe.i learned from online research that corroded subframes are a frequent complaint with dodge calibers, possibly because of the placement of the air conditioning unit.there was no recall.i immediately replaced the subframe at a cost of approximately $1,000.
2007 dodge caliber stalls at a stoplight and when coming to a stop/ low speed. This stalling happens at all times during the day when operating the vehicle. It is extremely dangerous, and must be remedied immediately. I have taken my car to the dealership, to various mechanics/technicians, and still the problem persists. This is an ongoing issue with numerous dodge caliber owners, and has yet to be addressed by dodge. Please act in good faith and provide a remedy.
Sub frame was so rusted it affected the steering, motor mount collapsed into the sub frame, lower control arm was almost separated from the frame. I was traveling atabout 65 mph on the n.y. Thruway when i started having problems with the steering . When i arrived home i investigated and found the car was so unsafe i couldn't drive it again until sub frame was replaced. I saved the frame that was removed from the vehicle if needed.
Had creaking noises from front end, as i was inspecting noticed the front crossmember severely rusted with holes. Did a google search and found numerous complaints. Also found a campaign from dodge stating there was an extended warranty on both the rear and front subframes/cross members. I had already replaced the rear. I contacted dodge and was told there are no longer any campaigns or recalls that are active for my caliber. I stated that the front sub frame has rusted beyond its life and my vehicle has less than 145k miles. I also asked if they would provide assistance in its repair as it is a major safety hazard. They replied with, since all warranties are expired and no recalls are in effect, they would not help or provide any assistance with any repairs.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 65 mph, the electronic throttle control warning indicator illuminated continuously. In addition, the vehicle decelerated from 65 mph to 5 mph, and the vehicle lost power. The vehicle was able to restart, but failed to operate until minutes later. The contact called john elway chrysler at 970-281-4687 and was advised to bring in the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle was not under warranty. The approximate failure mileage was 154,000.
2007 dodge caliber.consumer writes in regards to crossmember recall and electrical wire damages.the consumer stated after the vehicle was taken to the dealer, 19 days later it was discovered the engine cover was missing. Which resulted in rodents accessing the electrical wires and chewing them.
Low beam headlight on passenger side will not turn on but the high beam works fine. Have checked wiring and fuses and it seems to be the tipm.took into a shop and they said that it is the tipm telling the light not to turn on so in other words its a bad tipm. I was made aware that the part would be close to $1200. I've researched this issue online and i see that it is a very common issue. I am now starting to have issues with what i think is a bearing gone bad, still trying to determine this.today as i was almost home, my charge system light came on.when i got home, so turned car off and let it sit a few minutes, turned the car back and no issues.the 2007 dodge caliber seems to have issues.i wrote to dodge about the headlamp issues with no resolution or that they acknowledge there is an issue.from reading the forums today, it seems my lights or issues may get worse and possibly loose my life or cause a horrible wreck before all of this over.dodge needs to take the responsibility for all of these issues and recall them so we are not out the huge sums of money that is required to fix this.i am currently unemployed and no unemployment compensation as of yet, i am afraid my once reliable car will just quit on me one day when i least expect or cause lose of life.
I've owned the car since new, recently we had a problem with a dead battery. After replacing the battery, the car would not go more than 20 miles per hour and we had engine fault codes. Once we cleared out the codes, the car ran fine. However, we now had a front headlight that was out. Replacing the bulb didn't work. The only way to get the front headlights both on was to turn on the high beams.after doing some research from a dodge dealership and on the internet, i have found the issue is widespread and due topoor design of the fuse box on these vehicles, also known as the tipm.i believe the drain on the battery was caused by the poor design of the tipm and with that one incident, started the failure process.this vehicle has 150,000 miles on it and has been well maintained.i have replaced the tipm with a used one from a auto supply yard, i still get intermittent starting of the vehicle and while both headlights are working, the high beams are now not working.
"takata recall"while driving the 2007 dodge caliber, it suddenly jerks and down shifts and rpms seem to sky rocket, the lightning bolt symbol illuminates and it drops speed and will not accelerate over 30 mph max, it tends to do this on hills or after you have to brake slightly for any reason and then accelerate again to maintain speed or to get up a hill. No matter how much you take it easy on the acceleration or how hard you push it, it doesn't help after it goes into this slow mode. The only way to get the vehicle to operate normal again is to pull off the road, put it in park, turn it off and then wait and restart it again, some times it has taken up to 5 times or trying to restart it before it finally restarts. This vehicle carries children in it every day, and it has became very unsafe to operate, having a great chance of being rearended or hit by another vehicle in the side due to loss of power unexpectedly
2007 dodge caliber. Consumer writes in regards to cracked manifold and rusted sub frame. *ldthe consumer stated the frame was supposed to be repaired under warranty, but hasn't provided the funding.
Since january of 2015, my car has been in the shop almost one dozen times for the same issue. While driving my car, a loud sound goes off in the engine and when the key is taken out of the ignition, the engine is still running. After a few minutes it bogs down and the car completely dies. I've had about six new starters because they have been fried. We've taken my car to multiple mechanics and they cannot figure out what the issue is. With a new starter in the car, it can last two days to a week to a month, but for four months straight it's been a recurring problem.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 35 mph, the vehicle stalled and the check engine warning light illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was towed to the dealer but no diagnosis was made. The contact was made aware of an unknown manufacturer's recall related to the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 130,000.
Engine cradle is completely rusted out on our 2007 dodge caliber sxt. I have never seen something like this on a car that's not too old. Looking at the engine cradle it has a hole about 12 inches round and along the engine cradle support or whatever its called that sticks up in the air welded to the cradle ...updated 07/30/15 the consumer stated the part was replaced at not charge. Updated 08/13/14
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at very low speeds and depressing the brake pedal, the abs would erroneously activate causing the braking distance to be extended. The contact also indicated that the check engine sensor light illuminated. The dealer was unable to diagnose the cause of the failures. In addition, the contact experienced various electrical failures. The driver side window would open, but would not roll up to close allowing rain to enter into the vehicle. Also, the front passenger side headlight would not operate. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired for the electrical failures. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 156,000.updated 12/30/14the consumer was involved in accident and the vehicle was totaled. Updated 01/27/15
While trying to accelerate on highway vehicle began to jerk and lose speed. Now when i press the gas pedal it hesitates and at high speeds jerks and loses power. Truck behind me had to slam on brakes and almost caused severe accident. Dodge needs to fix immediately.i don't have any money to even try to fix since i don't know where to start.please help all of us dodge caliber owners.
My car was parked, upon trying to start the car, no luck.had the car towed to the dealer. Fuel pump was the initial diagnosis, but then also the wiring harness was melted.$642.69 later my car was running.not a happy camper.
First my car started to sound like a dryer full of ball bearings the ball bearingthe oem ones in the alternator went out. There is no replacement pulley so the whole alternator had to be replaced $600+ (found out this is a common problem in 2007 dodge calibers)then while pulling out of the parking lot my tire fell off due to faulty/worn-out i ball joints and upper and lower control arms.. Had to replace the entire front end suspension $1400+! (this is a major complaint as i have found online. I have read over 200 different complaint statements) not to mention my abs light was on and they had to change out my speed sensor 100 +.then my ck engine light came on 2 weeks after the entire front end suspension was replaced when i drove the car it would shake and acted like it was losing power & would not let me accelerate past 35 mph. I took it in it had several stored codes. One was then intake manifold was stuck and the other was the camshaft.. They cleared it out and only the manifold came back up so they said i had to replace that. We did $800 + i picked it up & a day later it was doing the same thing now saying multi. Cylinder misfire & camshaft they cleared it and test drove it but it did not come back on so the dodge tech. Has no clue what to do to fix it & no clue on the cost ( this has also been a problem on 2007 dodge calibers) this has all happened within the last 3 months and my car has about 86000 to 87000 mi on it! i?m fed up this car is falling apart. As i have read dodge knows of these issues & has done nothing about it i have also called and made my complaint no call back yet..any open lawsuits on this?i would even be happy if dodge would reimburse me for these issues as obviously they are well documented known issues. I have spent way to much on this car in 3 months and @ 7 months pregnant with a 6 year old i need a safe reliable car!
The car will lose all power when driving, almost at a complete stop. The first 2 times it happened were at night (the second during a complete downpour) and since i lose all power, the hazard lights won't even work so i have to get out of the car to alert other drivers so that they won't hit me!! so dangerous!!the first "fix" was to do a full computer system re-flash ($300). The second "fix" was to replace the transmission control module ($600). The third time this happened was 3 days after the second "fix" as i'd driven not even 100 feet from a parking spot, i turned the volume up on my radio and the car died! the 3rd "fix" will be upwards of $1500!!! dodge knows about this problem. In fact, it is the faulty placement of the tipm that has caused this!! it was placed in a spot where it constantly receives damage from water and dirt on the road, which causes corrosion and then bam! loss of power!!!! dodge has not created any recalls for this which is unacceptable! this problem, if it happens on any highways or in major intersections, could kill someone!!! i've done a ton of research and this is happening to too many people with the same exact model year car!!! i've contacted dodge corporation to request a recall and/or financial assistance in this matter and they won"t do anything! i've owned this car for less than 3 months and i've already had it in the shop 3 times for this problem. When will dodge realize that they have to do something about this? when someone dies????? i'm going to reach out to as many people as i can who have had/are having the same problem so we can get a lawyer involved!!! someone needs to do something about this problem and that someone is dodge!!!!!!!
Car will randomly start shaking like there is barely any power. I have had to replace the alternator twice. Numerous throttle issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred i was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. Now the air bag light in the cluster constantly turns off and on and beeps while the car is shaking.
While driving on highway and street theoil light will flash and make a ding then engine shuts down with out any reason or warning. You can start the car again but is very unsafe. There are no other lights on like engine light of any other warning light.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While operating the vehicle, the engine suddenly overheated and the oxygen and check engine indicators illuminated. In addition, the vehicle would not accelerate normally. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who indicated that the oxygen sensors were faulty and needed to be replaced. The sensors were replaced, but the failures continued. The manufacturer was notified of the failures. The failure mileage was 50,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle would not start. The starter was replaced, but the failure recurred. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 160,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the check engine light illuminated as soon as the vehicle was started. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and an authorized dealer for diagnosis and the contact was informed by both that the pcm module would need to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified but offered no assistance. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 92,318.updated 05/10/13*ljthe consumer stated the manifold was faulty as well. Updated 05/17/2013
I'm writing this complaint about my 2007 dodge caliber.after nine years and only 79k miles of working very well for me, i suddenly had problems with the transmission on my way to work.at a stop light in the left turning lane off of a highway, about one minute from my job, the light turned green and i pressed the accelerator but my car didn't move forward.the engine was on and i could hear revving sounds from the engine but my car just didn't move.i was stuck.after getting it towed to several mechanics, one was actually able to check the problem.they told me i had a torque converter lockup.of course, they couldn't fix it and referred me to another shop.that shop couldn't fix it either and my only choice was to go to the dodge dealership!naturally, their price to fix it was huge at a whopping $4,500!i was furious with the cost and the fact that my car isn't even ten years old and i'm having problems with the transmission!how can i pay almost five grand to fix it when my car is barely worth three?please be careful buying a dodge caliber.it might work well for awhile but you can bet at some point in the near future it will fall apart on you!
The front cross member is rusted through so bad you can put your hand in side we bought the car last year. Now as we take it to the mechanics to get allignment he gave us the bad news about this. What i don't understand is why this most important part is rusted so bad while the parts around it isn't. I've got to come up with 1250 dollars for parts and labor. Why no recall on this there is no warning of this part fails and while we're driving and it breaks well. Crash and die . So dodge this is what you do to your customers.i'm so what i can to get the word out.
I was driving my car on i-10 and the car suddenly jerked and slowed down despite my foot still being on the gas pedal, the car began to shake and then the engine stopped on the middle of the road. I coasted to the median, and waited for 3-4 minutes, (mostly to catch my breath as i was lucky i was not run over by semi's) i restarted the mph was the norm) i had to put on my hazard lights and drive to the next exit. The mechanic said the control board for the crankshaft was blown and needed to be replaced. Seems like a very dangerous situation for other drivers and owners of a dodge caliber if it is a common defect.07dodcaliber/pc684 dodge crankshaft position sensor.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was entering a residential driveway when the vehicle stalled with the illumination of the ecu warning light. The dealer advised the contact to bring the vehicle in for diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was contacted and advised that there were no recalls on the vehicle.the vehicle was not repaired or diagnosed for the failure. The current and failure mileage was approximately 71,000.updated 06/13/11updated 09/19/11
My 2007 dodge caliber was diagnosed by an authorized service center to have a corroded engine cradle and a broken sway bar bracket. The car was deemed unsafe to drive by the servicing center, and i was given an estimate of $731 to repair it.at the time of the diagnosis, the car was only 7 years old with 75,825 miles on it. I contacted dodge to see if they would offer any assistance, and i explained that i found it completely unacceptable that the frame of my vehicle had rusted through to the point that it was unsafe to drive the vehicle. Dodge customer service contacted the service center to verify the diagnosis and confirmed that they had told me the car was unsafe to drive. However, customer service offered no assistance and told me that they were unable to do anything because the car was outside of it's 3 year warranty and i "didn't fit the parameters" for them to be able to help me. An engine cradle that has completely corroded after just 75,000 miles is a serious safety hazard and, in my opinion, also indicative of a serious manufacturing defect, yet both the dealership and dodge refused to do anything to rectify the situation.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.during initial takeoff, the vehicle would lose power and stall.on other occasions, while driving 5 mph, the vehicle would completely shut off or hesitate for a long period of time.the failure was intermittent and could not be duplicated.the vehicle could almost be restarted immediately after the failures.the contact took the vehicle to the dealer over ten times, but they could never duplicate the issue.the manufacturer offered no assistance.the current mileage was approximately 53,000 and failure mileage was approximately 20. Updated 01/07/09.*ljthe consumer stated the vehicle would stall when the clutch was pushed in, or just running in neutral. The rpm's would fluctuate when idling.updated 01/08/09.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 50-55 mph, the vehicle began to shake abnormally. As the contact decelerated, the vehicle exhibited an unusual noise from the passenger side of the vehicle near the front brake.the vehicle was taken to the dealer yet the dealer was unable to duplicate the failure. The failure persisted and the vehicle was taken to the dealer three times for the failure.on the third visit, the dealer replaced the front bushings, front bearing and other unknown repairs but to no avail. The failure persisted and the vehicle was taken to the dealer several times but never repaired. On one occasion, the vehicle stalled without warning and the vehicle was towed to the dealer but not repaired because they were unable to duplicate or diagnose a failure.the failure mileage was 68,000 and the current mileage was 74,000.
After two sets of tires we were told the lower ball joints had to be replaced on front end. Had to park the car and wait a week before the parts came in. We were told it wasn't safe to drive and there should be a recall due to the many problems of this nature. Also the water pump had to be replaced two months prior to this problem. This vehicle was serviced each time at the dodge dealer who informed us these problem should not have happen so soon.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the contact wasdriving approximately 55 mph the oil warning light indicatorilluminated on the instrument panel, followed by a sudden enginestall. The engine restarted after waiting a period of ten minutes.the failure occurred intermittently. Also, on a separate occasion the brakes failed to respond with excessive force engaged and then the engine stalled. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer. The technician was unable to locate a problem. The vehicle had been taken to authorized on several separate occasions for the identical failures in which both tie rods and an unknown sensor were replaced. The manufacturer was notified who advised the contact to take the vehicle back to an authorized dealer for diagnosis and repair. The failure mileage was 1,000.
Driving on fast lane loss of engine power turning right, ongoing problem since car was bought, could eventually cause an accident, car starts jittering, cannot keep driving it and have to park car on the side road hoping the problem goes away.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was driving 30 mph and the vehicle began to jerk and hesitate to accelerate. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and the contact was informed that the flow control valve actuator needed to be replaced. The contact was also informed that the replacement parts were on a national back order. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, but offered no assistance. The failure mileage was 110,000.
I drive a 2007 dodge caliber. It had 9,125 miles on the odometer at the time of purchase. It currently has 13,001 miles on it. I have owned it for 2 months. Several times the engine has stalled while i've had it in neutral or reverse. I've mentioned it to the dealership when it first occurred. They had me bring the car in to get it looked at but they said they found nothing wrong with the vehicle. It has been one month since they have looked at the vehicle and the same situation has been occurring repeatedly.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.during a failed inspection, the contact stated that the engine light illuminated on the instrument panel of the vehicle.also, the vehicle would wobble while driving at normal speeds.a local mechanic diagnosed the vehicle as needing new struts.neither the dealer nor the manufacturer were notified of the defect.the vehicle was not repaired.the failure and current mileage was 98,401.
I purchased this car used from a dealership due to the fact that i have an hour drive to and from work and it appeared to have great gas mileage.within my first two weeks of ownership the starter was stuck engaged as i drove and caught fire.this i replaced knowing with age, starters and alternators die.a month after servicing the starter, i was driving on the interstate at a speed of 67mph in heavy traffic when a lightening bolt (electronic throttle control sensor light) flashed and the car jerked as if it were to stall.i contacted my local dodge dealer who informed me that it probably was the throttle body and that i might as well drive the car for a bit because the light was not staying lit.every since then the light has flashed on atleast once a month with the car violently jerking as to stall.i started the car last week and the idle was miserable so figured the throttle body had gone. Took the car to the local dealership to read codes on the pc. Code was for the throttle body.the throttle body was replaced by a certified dealership mechanic.within 30 miles and 30mins after leaving the garage the car wasjerking to stall as before but the light was not on.seem to be a serious problem considering stall on interstate at those speeds and hit by a semi would cause instant death.the value of my car is no longer high but you can guarantee the loan and payments are. I am a preschool teacher and make a very small income.took car instantly back to dealership but i know they will find nothing, charge to much, and send me on my way with a death sentence.seems as though dodge/chrysler has decided that as long as no deaths it is ok to carry on with this refusal to admit that they made a bad product.how about robbing! all i want is my car fixed but of course they will not admit anything.suppose i will have to call the news, fax the ceo's, and die .
At approx 6pm on 11/11 while attempting to enter the interstate my vehicle began to jerk violently.the check engine light began to blink and the vehicle would not exceed 35 mph.i took the vehicle to a local autozone to have it diagnostic.multiple misfires on all cylinders.i had the spark plugs replaced that weekend because my dealers repair shop was full.problem still occurred so i left the car at the dealer for them to check the engine.the camshaft sensor needs to be replaced.this is not covered under the 50,000 miles engine and power train warranty because it is not a moving part.i just had to replace both ball joints and upper and lower control arms on the car in june.it is currently at 42,600 miles.the alignment is off again so i'm suspecting the ball joints are going bad again.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the electronic throttle control failed and the throttle light illuminated intermittently. The contact also stated that while driving 70 mph, the vehicle decelerated to 45 mph and stalled. The failure was experienced numerous times. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer to have the failure diagnosed. The contact was not sure if the electronic throttle control failure caused the vehicle to stall. The manufacture was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 33,000 and the current mileage is 67,793. Updated 02/09/12*ljthe consumer stated a couple of months after purchasing the vehicle, it stalled.updated 02/24/12
While accelerating i was hearing a rattling noise in the engine of the car.there also was a recall on the car regarding a faulty pcm which is supposed to detect an engine thermostat malfunction. I took my car into the dealership for the recall, and they looked at my engine and fixed the rattle which they told me was due to the pcm needing to be reset....i read another complaint about the engine rattle and thought i would put mine in so the person could read this and now that the rattle is actually something due to the recall and not the type of gasoline they were using as they were told.
My 2007 dodge caliber has been in and out of the shop 8 times (invoices enclosed).and 5 of the complaints were about the rattling my engine was making. Nov 11 ? rattling on passenger side also a ticking noise in the passenger side. Result: tech found missing bolt on fender causing the rattle. Nov 30 ? rattling noise in engine area; also rattling noise when on incline and accelerates result: no service performed ? unable to duplicate.march 28, 2008 ? engine making noise rattling noise on the passenger side. Result: no service provided ? unable to duplicate customer concerned, they suggested a part for my vehicle.they ordered it and called me when the part was at the shop.) april 12, 2008 -they replace the exhaust mid-pipe isolator, re-torqued the mid-pipe clamp. April 17, 2008 ? i told them the car is still making rattling noises and they typed ? customer states veh. Making noise in front of the veh. Result: they erased & reprogrammed gpec powertrain control module with new software.they told me my car was fixed i took it on a test drive.they did not fix the problem. I never took the car home with me.it stayed in the shop for another week.) april 23, 2008 ? customer states veh. Making rumbling noise at 1500 rpm. (this has been the same complaint over and over again.) result: idler pulleys causing excessive vibration. Replacement of the idler pulleys.now, the rattling is minimal, however i still hear it, constantly, and the nerve wrecking ticking on the passengers side of the car.i told them now that the rattling is minimal the engine still does not sound right (straining) and now there are other noises that can be heard while driving. This car has cut off on me while making a turn and has almost stalled on me, now, three times..i wrote daimlerchrysler a third letter -please take action under this act:virginia motor vehicle warranty enforcement act.i hope they take this car back... I don't feel safe driving my daughter or myself around in it.
Driving at 35 mph, car suddenly lost power and lightning symbol appeared on dash.drove it home on side streets at very low speed (would notacceleratepast 10-15 mph) put a code reader on the car and came up with code p2119.this is a very dangerous situation, and could very easily cause an accident that could result in a fatality.
The first week i heard a hard & solid click noise coming from the rear of the vehicle 6-15-06.on 6-18-06 while in stand-still traffic the vehicles oil light lit up & chimed prior to the engine stalling & in neutral with the clutch to the floor.on 6-19-06 i took it in to the shop.john and i returned to the dealership 6-22-06 spoke with bob corlette about the multiple mechanical failures.we were told by bob that there is nothing that they can do.we spoke with david tindale (who provided the owners manual) & who reassured both of us that the problems would either be fixed or if they couldn't be fixed that they would be able to enact the lemon law & replace this car with a new one.i dropped the vehicle off the following week 6-26-06, len thomas said the stalling problem could not be duplicated.since picking up my vehicle, over the last 2 weeks the vehicle has still stalled at least 8-10 times.i received a call from lori at the dealership on a follow up to my service where she stated she too heard the clicking noise since she drove the vehicle.she also stated that the vehicle stalled on her while at a red light, but wrote it off to possibly her error and so this was not documented to service.on 7-12-06 w/ len thomas & david tindale to please call me back in reference to what lori stated about the stalling problem.i called and sp/ w david tindale &len thomas about these mechanical issues 7-13-06.i also followed up w/ a chrysler customer assistance request 7-13-06 file number 15156132. Len thomas called after speaking with chrysler about the problems and found that there were 4 other 2007 dodge calibers in the us that have been exhibiting the same stalling problems.furthermore, while sitting idle in traffic my speedometer display races up to 20 mph and back to 0 and races to 40 mph and back to 0.this has now occurred approx. 6 times in the past few weeks.i reported this new mechanical failure to len thomas 7-20-06.
I went to get my oil changed an the oil change person said he could not change my oil because the oil pan is rotting out from rust an there's another pan there that looks bad to i guessing must be transmissioncover,i have never in my life heard of a oil pan rusting out .the car is like new,what do i do.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was driving 40 mph when the engine stalled and failed to restart. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure but the vehicle was not repaired. The failure and the current mileages were 60,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle was leaking hot water from the floor of driver and passenger side. The dealer advised her to take the vehicle in for a diagnostic test. The manufacturer had not been notified. The failure mileage was 53,470.
I have a 2007 sxt caliber, bought it brand new in 07, but now i have this issue.my husband drove the car to work, on his way home he stopped and filled the tank up then he went to eat at p.hut.after we at he went to start it and nothing. It would act like it wanted to, but wouldn't. Well today we look it up on what it could possibly be and some said it was camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Well we replaced them and still nothing. So we decided to take the fuel pump out and behold the connectors going into the fuel pump were fried.which could've caught fire. Called dodge to see if they had any recalls and no they don't they said.i told them i wasn't the only one who has had this issue. They said well take it to the dealer but you will have to pay for the repairs, since the car is older and has some miles on it.my 2 children sit in the back of this car and now knowing that it could've started fire with them in it, really pisses me off and there's nothing they are gonna do about it.really????i will be going to the dealership and showing them what happened to fuel pump connectors and asking what they are gonna do about it.it's not like i'm taking the fuel pump out and burning it up. This is an issue that needs to be looked at and taken care of before someone gets hurt.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at any speed, the contact stated that the vehicle would stall intermittently. The dealer made four attempts to duplicate the failure but to no avail. The contact did not inform the manufacturer. The vehicle was not repaired. The current mileage was 52,000 and the failure mileage was 40.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. After driving the vehicle for a two hour period, the contact stated the vehicle would begin to run hot and then the vehicle would stall. The contact stated after waiting for 25 minutes, the vehicle would start back up. The contact spoke with the dealer who advised the repair would be $550. The current and failure miles were not available.
I was approaching an intersection to make u-turn, when my car went into a stall. The engine sounded to me, as if it was still revving. But my foot wasn't on the pedal. I came to a halt in the middle of the road. Put my car in park, tried to restart the vehicle twice. Then my car caught fire. In shock i could feel the car getting hot. So i unbuckled my seat belt, and tried to open the door. It wouldn't open. I panicked for my life and proceeded to try and get out the car from the trunk. It wouldn't open either. But a wittiness who saw my horrible fate helped me and open the door from the outside. I was saved, and relieved. He then ran to his car and got a gallon of water and tried to put out the fire. But the flames were to strong for a gush of water. An other wittiness tried to help put out the flames with some more water. Still the flames would not die down. So i decided to call "911" and tell them my reason of calling. Then the fire and police departments came. They put out the fire. I was relieved but afraid for my. New job that i had to report an absence too, and lost wages for my family care and well being. And my own life threatening ordeal, may have to evaluated for post traumatic stress. I then called my family member to pick me up, and to arrange a tow service. The car was towed to my residence. And is now undergoing an investigative damages and insurance claims.
At 200 miles, my car's engine started to rattle and my power lock had a short.i called and called the dealership until 1000 miles later they checked the problem.they gave me an excuse for the motor rattling was that there was such thing as winter and summer fuel and that i should change gasoline stations and brands to see if that would correct the problem. I followed their instructions and went practically all over town gashing up.i just had it checked again at 1527 miles, the noise got worst. The motor rattles when i accelerate and when it also reaches the regular temperature. In the morning when my engine is still cold it doesn't rattle but as soon as it reaches the regular temperature it starts rattling. My motor rattles a lot worst. Yesterday at 1430 miles as i was waiting for the light to turn green, my car was going to stall. My rpm gauge went down and then went back up.i got the same excuse once again that it was the type of fuel and that there existed no repair for this problem. The service manager said "the car is working the way it was designed" and "it is all through computers now, dodge fixes the problems and sends us the software and we hook up to your car. In the mean time, there is no repair available and it will eventually get repaired". The only thing they did was add a mopar fuel additive but i still hear the noise.i have used regular, mid-grade, and premium and used different stations and fuel companies and the problem still exists. The rattling is so bad that not even with the ac full blast can you tune it out. As far as the power lock is concerned it was repaired, they said it had a short. The bad thing is that there are no other power locks but the only one on the driver side.as far as safety is concerned,you are unable to open the rear passenger doors or the rear door, as they have no power locks you have to do this manually. Ihad to teach my child to pull on the lock in order to open the door in the mean time this got fixed.
Having electrical issues with the low beams on the headlights. It started as one light not working, then went to both lights not working. We have to use the high beams at night. The car is due a safety inspection and will not pass due to the lighting problem. There's also issues with the electric windows not operating and the check engine light comes on. I have spoken with chrysler about the problem and they will not do anything because our warranty has run out. They did say that if a recall were to happen i could get reimbursed. We do not have the funds to fix it.updated 11/29/12
Engine has constant 'rattle'; sounds just like a diesel engine now. Started as a ticking sound while car idled, ticking grew into a growl after starting the car, now roars upon acceleration and grinds/knocks loudly when stopped while in gear--quite embarrassing at red lights. Forum has indicated same problem as an alternator pulley. Visual inspection detects source of noise on left side of engine (looking in under the hood) where the 7 belts are spinning--hard to tell which one is the culprit but the alternator post makes sense. Please visit that particular comment at http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/[email protected]@.f0f6bb2/187#msg187; and that was page 20! many owners are experiencing this problem, and now i'm afraid to drive on the highway in fear of a breakdown or power loss (i've lived through one of those before by the grace of god). That site recommended that i post the complaint to you, to do something about it for not only myself (i.e., just take it to the shop and spend money i don't have for workaround fixes that won't solve the problem), but for others who loved the car they purchased but are now regretting their decision (*therefore please issue a recall to encourage daimler chrysler to review their engineering recruitment and performance). Thank you for your service and purpose in this economy. :)
The contact owned a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 40 mph, the vehicle started to make a loud noise and it stalled. The contact also stated that she tried to restart the vehicle a total of three times and the vehicle caught fire on the last attempt. The fire department was notified and no injuries were reported. The vehicle was declared destroyed. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 80,000.
Dodge caliber 2007 with 44,000 miles shows a intake manifold runner stuck open code.will this effect my federal emissions clause and will i be in violation?
Engine stalls on 1.8l 5 speed manual transmission.since purchasing in nov 2006 the engine has stalled over 20 times in various situations.the common factor is when coming to an idol the rpm's will drop to approximately 500 then come back up to idol at about 800-1000.it usually stalls when in stop and go traffic but has stalled in unsafe conditions at least 5 times.when pushing in the clutch to downshift while making a left hand turn across traffic lanes it has stalled.this caused me to loose power steering and forced me to continue to fight the steering wheel, restart the car and shift into the appropriate gear while broadside to oncoming traffic.i have taken it to the dealer twice and most recently told that dodge says it's the way the electronics for shifting are connected or something of that sort.the engine light has come on twice before and went out the following day.the dealership stated it had stored a stall code.the engine light is back on today.
Dear sir or madami purchased a 2007 dodge caliber in may of 2007 from enterprise rental car agency , i was never told that the vehicle would not have what i now know is called a powertrain warranty.a few months ago i purchased a warranty from a company called us fidelis and needles to say i was on vacation alone and had car trouble and this company would not honor the warranty and to add further insult to injury i was told that the repairs should come from the dodge manufacturer.i am still a single woman living on a fixed income and still paying for this vehicle and have not a clue where or how to have this car repaired. In this tough economic time i have lost my job and my house the only thing left is my car should i now give up on it to?dear sir or madam i writing in regards to this warranty coverage, today is may 13th exactly 60 days from the day i purchased this coverage. I am on vacation and had a problem with my car and was told that i would have to wait 48 hours before some one could come out and inspect my car. I live in maryland and the problem occurred in new jersey while driving back to maryland. I was told that there was nothing that could be done. I informed them that i was alone with not monies to rent a car or get home. I was not offered any assistance. Please cancel this coverage and refund the $300.00 that i have paid your company this is not acceptable to me. Thank you for leaving me stranded alone with no help at all! the bbb that will handle your complaint is:bbb serving e. Missouri & s. Illinois(saint louis, mo)15 sunnen drive, ste. 107 saint louis, mo 63143phone: (314)645-3300fax: (314)645-2666email: [email protected]: http://www.stlouis.bbb.orgyou may wish to copy or print this information for further reference.all correspondence about your complaint will come from and should be addressed to this bbb.
Having electrical issues with the low beams on the headlights. It started as one light not working, then went to both lights not working. We have to use the high beams at night. The car is due a safety inspection and will not pass due to the lighting problem. There's also issues with the electric windows not operating and the check engine light comes on. I have spoken with chrysler about the problem and they will not do anything because our warranty has run out. They did say that if a recall were to happen i could get reimbursed. We do not have the funds to fix it.updated 11/29/12
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 15 mph, the engine light illuminated and the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the crank shaft sensor was faulty. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 68,000.
Tail pipe of car is cut too short sometimes smell exhaust fumes in car.
I started to notice a noise coming from the back end of the car. We took the car to chrsyler/dodge dealer & was told that we have to replace the following:rear hubs, the right & left lower control arms & replace the tires. We had just brought new tires in november 2010 for the winter & now they have to be replace again.chrysler is putting my life, my husband & mother's life line on the line. Why is it that when they had the may 2007 recall,this problem was not included and why are they getting away with murder by putting our lives in jeopardy. I thought i purchased a car that would kept me safe. The estimated cost they quoted us $1800.00. Chrysler/dodge should be ashame of themselves. Is profit more important to them than our lives. The car is worthless & can't afford to trade it in either.
2007 dodge caliber gas pedal. With 50,600 miles. While driving approx 65 mph on a 3 lane highway the gas pedal accelerated to over 90 mph when the brakes and emergency brakes could not stop the car only slowed it slightly when i reached the shoulder of the road across 3 lanes of traffic i put the car in neutral and turned off the car to fully stop the vehicle. The gas pedal was replaced and explained that it was the cause for the excessive speed.
Every time when i would be going over any kind of bump,driveways at speed bumps or just driving the car. I would always here shaking or rumbling noises in my front suspension. Recently i had to get a clutch installed in my caliber. And my mechanic informing me that my control arms were coming loose. Which means that if it persists the wheels can come off so that's the sound i am hearing the wheels shaking when it goes over bumps!. And then he followed by saying with dodge calibers control arms always seems to go bad early in the life of the car no matter how you drive. I only have about 91,000 miles on my car which are about 90% highway miles.i used to drive for ups drove trucks for living when he comes to changing gears and driving the car i am extremely capable.so for a clutch to go back in just seven years is absolutely ridiculous. My parents had a 1987 volvo station wagon with manual transmission. And we never had transmission problems!!! hey dodge this is how a car is supposed to work!! you buy it works till you sell it. With a few maintenance fixes down the line. (not control arms transmission and electrical and gas pedals.)so for control arms going bad at this time is absolutely ridiculous. I went on other forums of people who has the same car as mine in about 600 people or thousand people were saying exactly the same thing but they had to spend a lot of money to get these things fixed. I understand that things go bad cars over time but this is extremely too early. I have went to 3 to 4 other mechanics and all say the same thing about the dodge calibers. Control arms are a major important thing is safety of a car extremely basic an extremely simple to understand that conforms do not go back and just seven years. Note my control arms aren't as bad as some others.
Went to get car inspected and the mechanic found our crossmember frame was rusted out. It is only 5 yrs old and has 63000 miles, unheard of. Next step contact dodge see what they can do to help us get this repaired, right now car is unsafe to drive.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.whenever the heater or air conditioner is activated, the contact smells a strong odor coming from the vents.the vehicle has been taken to the dealer approximately 8 times regarding this odor, but they could not locate the origin.the contact stated that the occupants of her vehicle complain of dizziness, nausea, and headaches.the current mileage was 34,700 and failure mileage was 29,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving 70 mph, the contact's husband noticed hot water leaking from under the steering wheel.he sustained second and third degree burns.the vehicle was repaired and daimler chrysler stated that they would send a representative to north carolina.the contact was informed that the vehicle should not have been repaired, but preserved for inspection instead.the powertrain and mileage information were unknown.it was determined that the ac condensation drain hose was clogged with debris which caused hot water to get inside the vehicle. Updated 08/15/07.
My 2007 dodge caliber has experience a pulling in the front end that started after 3,000 miles. The car has been at the shop 3 times in a time period expanding approx. 6-12 weeks. The dealer working on the car could not achieve success after three attempts. The car is now at another dealer who has had the car over 48 hrs with no response to the front end issue. The car now at 7400 miles as a front brake "jatter" and is at the dealer for this as well. Also, the car's rear washer fluid nozzle leaks at highway speed and the stereo's sound will distort suddenly without warning. I am beyond upset with how much problems i have had on a 19,000.00$brand new automobile. I do not want to believe that all chrysler vehicles have this kind of issues. I also wanted to believe that my problem was minor and would be just fine once it was fixed. However, the problems just keep coming. I purchased a new car in good faith that i receiveddependable transportation. I don't think i have gotten the fair end of the deal. I would be a happy customer if daimler chrysler refunded my money on this car. In trade i will purchase anew dodge 1500 pickup. I feel like if daimler chrysler will take care of me, i will be a happy customer who will continue to purchase their products. I don't want to take my business elsewhere but i will do what is needed.
Dash light not working at night. Can't see speedometer at night
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the daytime running lights failed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for diagnosis. The technician was unable to diagnose the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.
Problems with the totally integrated power module.my head lights are not working properly.
Cluster lights, back lighting for climate control knobs and tail lightsflicker three times and then go off.this happens any time when turning on lights, whether at vehicle start-up or when driving down highway.makes for unsafe night time driving.
Passenger headlight not turning on.after replacing bulb it powered on one or two more times then would not turn on again.after much research i have found that the tipm is the result, and that it is very expensive to fix.since headlight have to pass safety inspections and the tipm appears to be faulty, this should be considered a recall!
I first lost the low beam on my driver side head light. I replaced the bulb only to have the same problem. Later that day i was stopped at a red light, my car then stalled out. I put it in park and restarted it. The check engine light started to flash there was little to no power. I managed to pull my car off the road put it into park then restart it again. The check engine light stayed on but was not flashing. I got my car home. I count my blessing that my car didn't die while going at highway speeds. Or lose all the lights and cause an crash. I'm worried to drive it now but i have no choice if i want to keep working. This is a very common issue from what i have read. The totally integrated power module needs to be recalled before it kills people. It is unsafe and causes the car the become a death trap for the driver and all the people around it.
Headlight bulb replacement should be easy for the consumer and company should be liable for the low beam problem that causing lot of owners to repairs cost of 100 of 900 dollars.this is a economy safety issue that increase pressure of the owners who do not affords such a costly repairs and drive in pressure -- also a issue for the safety of others. One small problem can cause many other problems. Do not let company get out of easy excuse that under not a safety problem.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, the low beam headlights failed without warning. The contact also stated that she drove with the high beams while driving at night, however, eventually over a period of 3 years all of the exterior lights including the brake lights had failed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and was diagnosed that the tipm module needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 58,000.
Low beam headlight don't work. Dealer ask for tipm replacement (9fuse box). Noticed that this problem with too many. It is a design failure. Should recall and fix or reimburse to everyone.additional information are athttp://www.cargurus.com/cars/discussion-t24900_ds494668.
The vehicle had numerous throttle issues and air conditioning issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred i was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. After some time the vehicle's left low beam headlight went out. When replaced it still did not work. The vehicle's alternator and battery were checked and found to be functional. Within a week after this occurrence the vehicle could not be started without a "jump" and even so would lose power once parked and could not be started again. I returned the car to the auto mechanic, specifically an auto electrician, and was told it was the totally integrated power module that needs to be replaced at a cost of $700 plus labor. In response to this i researched the part and came across numerous people with the same problem and the same eventual diagnosis. The car has been essentially undrivable and unsafe. There was the constant worry that the electrical problem would happen while on the expressway and cause very unsafe conditions for myself and others on the road. It is my opinion a recall needs to be issued for this problem.
4 sets of headlight have blown on the car in the last 6 months. Then my gears aren't shifting correctly because it's making a clicking noise which has been heard by several people. Also the steering wheel clicks when you turn it on occasions. On a 2007 dodge caliber sxt2.0.
I bought my caliber last october and not even a month after having it i realized my left tail light and my middle break light didnt work so i bought bulbs and replaced them and they still didnt work and then my left headlight quit working so i had it looked at and they said that i need a whole new tipm computer and it would cost 1200 dollars that in which i dont have so i am not happy at all with this vehicle ... This is very dangerous and can cause me to be ticketed for something that could have been prevented or dodge can fix for me the tipm computer needs to be recalled asap.!
I've owned the car since new, recently we had a problem with a dead battery. After replacing the battery, the car would not go more than 20 miles per hour and we had engine fault codes. Once we cleared out the codes, the car ran fine. However, we now had a front headlight that was out. Replacing the bulb didn't work. The only way to get the front headlights both on was to turn on the high beams.after doing some research from a dodge dealership and on the internet, i have found the issue is widespread and due topoor design of the fuse box on these vehicles, also known as the tipm.i believe the drain on the battery was caused by the poor design of the tipm and with that one incident, started the failure process.this vehicle has 150,000 miles on it and has been well maintained.i have replaced the tipm with a used one from a auto supply yard, i still get intermittent starting of the vehicle and while both headlights are working, the high beams are now not working.
When the headlights are turned on, the instrument panel lights and the radio lights do not come on. At first the lights would blink on and off, now they do not come on at all. This can be dangerous when traveling at night. I did a google search and discovered that this is a common problem with some dodge vehilcles. I did a nhtsa search and did not find a recall for this problem. This problem occurs whether in motion or stationary, on a street or highway
Driver side seatbelt releases itself while i'm driving, front driver headlight does not turn on even though bulb has been changed several times to rule out damaged bulb, rear tag light won't turn on when vehicle is in motion, rearview mirror light will not turn on.
Passenger side headlight on low beam will not come on high beam works,replaced bulb to see if this was the problem and it was not.seems a lot of other caliber owners are experiencing this same problem! why wont they recall the faulty integrated control module for this vehicle! this is a safety issue!!
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that at engine startup,both the high and low beams failed. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was advised to the contact the fuse box failed and needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was not contacted. The vehicle was not repaired and the vin was unavailable. The failure mileage was 78,000 and the current mileage was 88,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the passenger's side headlight failed without warning. The vehicle was taken to a private mechanic where it was diagnosed that the totally integrated control module needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and stated that the part was on back order. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000 and the current mileage was 137,000. The vin was not available.
Driver side headlamp has gone out due to a total intergrated power module failure.
Takata recall, the headlight doesn't work properly. One headlight works and when switching to high beam the opposite side or the headlight does not work. It maybe, because of the fuel box getting water in it. But when on highway in motion the state patrol feels its unsafe to drivethe car being in this condition
Having electrical issues with the low beams on the headlights. It started as one light not working, then went to both lights not working. We have to use the high beams at night. The car is due a safety inspection and will not pass due to the lighting problem. There's also issues with the electric windows not operating and the check engine light comes on. I have spoken with chrysler about the problem and they will not do anything because our warranty has run out. They did say that if a recall were to happen i could get reimbursed. We do not have the funds to fix it.updated 11/29/12
The low beam headlights went out and both bulbs are known good. Its the tipm total integrated power module that's the culprit and it costs $900.00 to replace. I'm demanding a total recall on all dodge calibers.
I bought a used 2007 dodge caliber about 18 months ago. It had about 27,000 miles on it. I love the car except for one major problem. About six months ago(car now has 46,000 miles and out of warranty) i got stopped by a police officer. He informed me that my rear brake lights weren't working(third brake light worked ok). I brought the car to the dealership i bought it from so they could diagnose it. I was told it needed some kind of software upgrade and was going to cost me because the car was no longer in warranty. I lost my job shortly after buying the car and told the dealership i couldn\'t afford to pay. They did some type of reset(free of charge)and said it might not last. The other day i got stopped again, finding out my brake lights weren't working again. I'm still not working so things are even tighter than before. Icalled dodge to see if they would help me out. He said he talked to the dealership and they told him they would have to diagnose it. Because it was an electrical problem they might need the car for a couple days and the charges could be quite high. The guy at dodge said the best he could do is pay half of the repair. I told him half wasn't going to help so i guess my only option was to drive it like it was. My intension was to keep the car for another year and buy a new dodge but if this is the way they operate i guess i'll buy another brand. He said he would keep on record in case i changed my mind about splitting the charges. I told him he should keep it on record so when i get rear ended i can say i tried to do something about it. I'm still out of work and still driving it without brake lights. It's just a matter of time, but what can i do?
My front head lights are not working it has to to do with the fuse box that is locate under the the bumper ,that it get wetand the snow and salt through the years .i have to drive my car doing the day only .the fuse box is corroded it .
The low beam headlights are failing reportedly due to failures within the tipm according to the dealership. They are charging 1600 usd for this repair in order to have a safe operating condition on the vehicle at night!
The tipm is bad, and apparently it's a problem with these vehicles.recall them to be fixed properly!thankfully, mine is only a headlight, but i've read where all of a sudden everything goes and the car will only go 40 mph.
Only one headlight will illuminate, even after replacement. This is a commonly reported issue with defective totally integrated power module (tipm) units on this model.the exact same tipm units have been recalled on other models using the part, but not for the caliber.this is a safety issue since more than one headlight can fail at any time.the consumer should not have to pay for a defect like this.
Rt headlight not working. I replaced bulb but later found out that my fuse box needed to be replaced . Apparently this is a common issue. Light all of a sudden stopped working. It limits my visibility at night at posses a threat to drivers who don't see me while driving at night.
The drivers side headlight is out. The bulb was replaced and it still does not work. I was told that the tipm needed to be replaced. I was told that this is not a safety issue. It is a safety issue for only having one head light.i guess when i receive a citation for only one headlight then the citation will be mailed to dodge for reimbursement.
I noticed that my left (driver side) headlight was out. So i replaced the bulb, which would be the obvious reason for the light not working. However, this did not fix the issue. After further inspection and discussion with a mechanic, it turns out it's the timp that is bad and causing the driver side headlight not to work. In addition, after doing more research online it appears that this issue is more than common with the 2007 dodge caliber. I can't see how a recall has not already been filed for this issue given it is a huge safety hazard if one's headlights don't work at night. In addition, it causes someone to be pulled over.
Driver side headlight does not work. Replace light twice, neither one works.high beam works, but not low beam.have been told need to replace tipm (main fuse block).appears to be typical problem with this car.
Low beam headlight on passenger side will not turn on but the high beam works fine. Have checked wiring and fuses and it seems to be the tipm.took into a shop and they said that it is the tipm telling the light not to turn on so in other words its a bad tipm. I was made aware that the part would be close to $1200. I've researched this issue online and i see that it is a very common issue. I am now starting to have issues with what i think is a bearing gone bad, still trying to determine this.today as i was almost home, my charge system light came on.when i got home, so turned car off and let it sit a few minutes, turned the car back and no issues.the 2007 dodge caliber seems to have issues.i wrote to dodge about the headlamp issues with no resolution or that they acknowledge there is an issue.from reading the forums today, it seems my lights or issues may get worse and possibly loose my life or cause a horrible wreck before all of this over.dodge needs to take the responsibility for all of these issues and recall them so we are not out the huge sums of money that is required to fix this.i am currently unemployed and no unemployment compensation as of yet, i am afraid my once reliable car will just quit on me one day when i least expect or cause lose of life.
When returning home from the store it was near dusk.we turned on the headlights and headed home.along the way cars were flashing their lights at us.i checked to confirm the headlights were switched on, which they were.once we got home, we noticed both headlights were out even though they were switched on.luckily we only had a mile from to travel to get home or this could have been a very dangerous situation that could have ended in a crash.later i removed the headlight bulbs to see if they had burned out. (not likely since they both went out at the same time.)both bulbs appeared fine and i reinstalled them.i turned on the headlights and they both illuminated.a couple hours later, i went to leave again but after turning on the headlights neither of them illuminated.after some research i found that it's the tipm failing in the vehicle.i've also read that chrysler installed the fuse box under the hood where it's exposed to the elements and this is possibly why so many caliber owners are seeing this issue.i looked through the last 50 complaints on nhtsa and 20 of them are for this exact same problem.if 40% of the complaints on a vehicle are for the same issue, shouldn't chrysler do the right thing and offer free replacement?we shouldn't have to wait until people die in a car crash before chrysler does something.this creates a very hazardous situation if the driver of the vehicle doesn't realize the lights are not working and they're driving in rain or fog.others drivers cannot see them as well and it's only a matter of time before somebody gets killed because of this issue.
When driving on us.10 in mi at 9 pm head lights went out all other lights work no high or low beams. The bulbs are both good. Also the right turn signal blinks very fast as if there was a burned out bulb but there is not one. This is a 2007 dodge caliber. Doessomeone have to getkilled before a recall is forced on chrysler?
Driverside headlight went out have replaced bulb, mechanic look at it and noone knows the issue. It will only work on high beam.
I was driving at night time and my left side lowbeam headlight went out. Then briefly after the right side. I put my highbeams on to finish my trip home and then right before i made it home they both went out. Upon having the vehicle diagnosed it would be a $1000 part plus labor known as the tipm. My friend has his own garage and he jumped power from my foglights. My headlights now work but he said he won't be long until other things start failing. Now my dash lights went out 2 weeks ago while i was on the interstate. I immediately pulled over and tried turning the car off and on and nothing. So i turned on my hazard flashers and drove 25 miles home with no dash lights. They will flicker on and off so rapidly i turned my dimmer switch the whole way down so it doesn't distract me while driving. Apparently the tipm in these cars is a widely known issue after very little research i found over thousands of failed units in people's vehicles. Dodge should be liable for this mess!
I own a 2007 dodge caliber sxt. Back in march of this year, the driver's side headlight went out. After replacing the bulb, it still did not work. I looked online for some potential enlightenment as to why and found a multitude of message boards and consumer websites stating this is a common problem with the 2007 dodge calibers. It starts with losing a headlight and then escalates to loss of power to the headlights, blinkers, hazard lights, windshield wipers, and sometimes the heating/cooling system and/or radio. Initially, in march, i hadn't experienced that yet. Today, i was driving through a city at approximately 30mph when i went to take a turn and noticed my right blinker wasn't working, so i tried the blinker for the left. That too was not working. Neither were my hazard lights or windshield wipers. I was far from home and afraid to shut the car off, for fear it would not restart so i kept driving home cautiously, trying not to change lanes. It began pouring rain and i was on the highway. I had no headlights, no wipers, and no blinkers or hazards to signal i was going over into the breakdown lane. Once in the breakdown lane, i was not easily visible to the other cars speeding by because of the amount of rain and the fact that i had no hazard lights to rely on. I could easily have been hit or hit someone else while trying to navigate through the rain to safety with no working blinkers, hazards, headlights, or wipers! the worst part is, this is a startlingly common issue with the year, make, and model and dodge is not offering a recall for this issue with the tipm (totally integrated power module), where the problem is stemming from. The dealership wants to charge me $99 for diagnostics and then over $1,000 for a new tipm. I want to start a class action lawsuit to get dodge to recall all of the vehicles having these safety issues caused by the tipm failure!!!!
My drivers side driving light was out so i bought a new bulb. That didn't fix the problem so i looked online and saw everyone was having the same problem and it seems to be the tipm which is around 1000.00 to fix. If we are all having the same problem i would think it's something that dodge should be taking care of not the consumer!
There is a common problem with the cluster light flicker and sometime not working at all. This causes a problem when driving at night and you cant see thr speedometeror any of the other gauges..
This car has had the driver airbag warning light on in the dash for more than 20,000 miles.i do not know if they are "takata air bags or not. Also, the driver rear taillight has filled with water. I have been the sole owner of this car. Now thedash lights are flickering off & on when lights are turned on. The caliber now has 96,000 miles on it . Thank you in advance for any answers.
The brake lights come on at will. The car can be parked for hours then suddenly the brake light comes on, draining the battery. I have replaced the brake light switch but the problem still exists.
The passenger's side low beam and the passenger side brake light have gone out. High beam, reverse, & turn signals are fine. I took the vehicle in and was told the totally integrated power module (tipm) must be replaced at a cost of over $1,000. This is a know issue to dodge; a design flaw due to exposing the electronic equipment to the elements by placing it in the engine bay in a housing that not water tight.i've been told the with the caliber it is not a question of if, but when the tipm will go out. This creates a safety hazard because any electrical system could go out while driving. Dodge should either fix this, recall the part, or reimburse owners that have already had to pay to fix the issue.
Head light went out, after checking the bulb and found it good.did some research and found i need to invest$1200.00 to replace the tipm. Head lights are a required service on any automobile to drive on public highway. When is dodge going to take responsibility and issue a recall and solution to fix this problem before any loss of life is incurred.by their knowing this problem exists they are open a large law suit when an injury occurs.
The driver's side headlight stopped working after flickering on and off for a few weeks. I checked the wiring, changed the bulb, checked for loose connections and all fine. Did some research and found that the totally integrated power module (tipm) is the cause. It appears from what i have seen that numerous people who have calibers and pt cruisers have experienced the problem. The two ways i have seen to fix this is to buy a new tipm for $500-$800 dollars, not installed, or rewire it to the passenger light which may cause a fire. This is totally unacceptable! to rely on a $500-$800 part to make sure a headlight works? dodge needs to be forced to recall the part or provide owners available options at cheaper rates! this is very poor and i hope that nhtsa will assists the 1,000's of owners who are experincing this problem. Thank you!
On my way home from work i stopped at a light and my car jerked and acted as though it was about to shut off and my check engine light came on and then the car would not accelerate very well.i went back to my work and had the mechanic check it (i work at a school transportation) and the light said it was the crankshaft position sensor so i got it replaced and it did nothing so we went ahead and replaced thr camshaft as well and it worked for a week or so then started off and on.my headlight also stopped working and i replaced it 3 times before wondering what the heck! i just recently was cited a ticket due to the light and since i was not able to fix it i had my license suspended and was driving without knowing and ended up getting pulled over again but instead of explaining that my car sucks i was arrested and put in jail for a couple hours so now i have two court dates coming up one for my fix it ticket not getting fixed and another for driving on suspended because of not getting the part fixed so it is starting to become a major issue for my whole life in general.my car dies at almost every stop light and if i go over 2rpm it will not acclerate.i had to replace major parts such as; motor mounts, struts, pistons, calipers, brakes, batteries, etc in just the short time ive owned the vehicle which was very hard for me since i dont make much money.the car is wired very odd and my father is my go to mechanic but he couldnt figure out some of the parts.i dont have the finances for the tpim and figured it would be recalled by now since its a major problem with most calibers so i stuck it out but now i dont know whats going to happen.as of today, august 24, 2015, my car is not running since it lost all power last night, first the radio stopped, then the ac stopped blowing, then the lights that work started to dim, and then it just died. Please help!!!
I only have one high beam light illuminating. I've replaced the bulbs just to make sure. This is a common problem with this make, model and year.
While driving on the highway in the dark both of my low beam lights went out leaving me with high beams only. Have found out like numerous other caliber owners that my tipm needs replaced due to corrosion and that all the wiring needs checked for corrosion as well. Have been told this is a common occurrence with the dodge caliber and there is no recall. Since i do not have any warranty left on my vehicle i will be paying for this on my own if i choose to fix it. Since i drive approximately 100 miles round trip to work 5 days a week and am having health issues that require me to travel to the doctor frequently, i will have to find a way to get the money to fix this issue as it is not safe to drive on the highway with no low beam and i can't adjust my work schedule to be able to only drive in the day light. I was wondering how i was going to afford to have any christmas for my family before this due to having serious health issues and now i have to figure out how to pay for a part that should be recalled on top of that.
Faulty turn signals in my 2007 dodge caliber not functioning properly along with my hazard lights, there have been no injuries to this point put in could leadto it because the driver behind or on the side of you doesn't know when you are making a turn or are trying to merge with traffic.
Driver's side headlight went out. Took it to shop to get it replaced. It was not the lightbulb. They got it fixed, but said the tipm may be faulty and it will need replaced if headlight goes out again. A day later, the headlight went out again.
One day was driving on the highway and notice when i was switching into the left lane that my front left turning light was out but the the signal on the dashboard was blinking . I got home put the car in park then chabge the bulb then tested the bulb to see would it work it didn't work so i took the car to the mechanic to have it checked out he couldn't find out what was the issue. He thought it was the bulb too but he found out it wasn't the bulb because when we turn the headlights on the turning signal light would be on but when you engage the signal it would not blink or when you engage the hazard lights too it would not blink .
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. Upon starting the vehicle, the air bag indicator remained illuminated. The contact also stated that the front passenger side headlight failed to illuminate. The vehicle was taken to barbera autoland (7810 e roosevelt blvd, philadelphia, pa 19152 (215) 333-3700) for diagnostic testing of the headlight. The vehicle was not taken to an independent mechanic or dealer for the air bag warning indicator failure. The manufacturer was notified by voicemail and the contact was awaiting a callback. The failure mileage was unknown.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that after purchasing the vehicle, the headlights malfunctioned and only the high beams would function. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer, who stated that the integrated power module was defective and needed to be replaced. The contact did not have the integrated power module replaced. The failure mileage was 139,000.
My car started making a noise and idling high last year.it started cutting itself off and eventually it wouldn't start.i replaced the alternator and battery. Now less than a year later 2014, the low lights don't work and it is starting to make the same noise and cut itself off.now i'm being told its the total integrated power module.
For the second time this year, i have lost all headlights, air conditioning, engine dying randomly while driving, safety lights flashing and beeping on dashboard.the tipm module is going out again. This part is nearly $1,000 and only a dodge dealership is able to fix this issue.there are issues worldwide with this same part in multiple dodge cars since 2007 and nothing has been done to fix this issue
I have had constant problems with this car.my key abruptly stopped working last year and i have to pay $500 because the dealership said the computer could no longer recognized my key so i had to get a new one.my gear shaft began to jam and i had to pay $200 to get a chip replaced because it was shot.now my totally incorporated power module was shot today when i took it to get checked at the dealership today.the cost is estimated to be $1150.i am sick and tired of all the problems this car is presenting in my life.
Totally integrated power module problems.having all kinds of cascading electrical problems with this car with only 70k miles.driver's side low beam will no longer work.engine intermittently stops/starts.acceleration issues, etc.chrysler wants over a $1,000.00 to address this issue, and the replacement tipm would likely fail in similar manner shortly thereafter.extremely unsafe car day or night.
Tipm module does not power lights to see while driving and led to power drains. Led to complete loss of power on highway.
The left headlight low-beam does not work. Have been stopped 3 times by police for warnings. Have replaced light bulb with new bulb and it still only works on high-beam. Took to auto service center, they also tried to install a new bulb, but it to did not work. Tried tip of removing both battery cables and holding them together for 10 minutes to reset computer code. That also did not work. From searching the internet on this problem, i find that there are many of these vehicals with similar problems. I think these should be recalled by chrysler because it causes a safety issue when driving at night or during the day when it is raining.
While driving my car at night my right headlight went out,replaced bulb and discovered new bulb does not work,problem was diagnosed as a bad totally integrated power module,so a $20.00 lamp turned into a costly $1200.00 repair, what if all lights went out? as i investigated this issue it is very common on chrysler/dodge vehicles, this occurrence of failure can and will be a danger if you encounter failure whiling driving at night and lose all lights or other components, i believe chrysler /dodge should be held accountable for this failure in their design of this necessary component in their vehicles and a safety recall should be ordered! thank you
2007 dodge caliber - totally integrated power module (tipm) unit issuelow beam headlights stopped working while operating vehicle.only high beam lights work.local garage diagnosed problem as faulty totally integrated power module, with a repair cost of $1225.headlights are a necessary component to the safe operation of a vehicle.dodge ought to look into the issue of faulty tipm units and the safety implications inherent in failure of the component.the safety of the families traveling in vehicles manufactured by dodge ought to be of the greatest concern.
My car has had electrical issues and most all the calibers do also has transmission issues which has had multiple complaints dodge refuses to answer or fix any of the cars or issue recalls they have been made well aware if you check forums as well you can see the difficult times other people have had and the dangerous situations
Noticed the driver's side headlight was out again while i was driving through a parking lot. I pulled into a parking spot and turned the lights off and back on again and then both headlights were working. Took it to the shop today since we've had the tipm and tipm connector replaced within the last 6 months. They could not duplicate the headlight not working, but said they'd replace the tipm since it's still under warranty.we're really starting to hate this car.
In november of 2008 my left passenger headlight stopped working so i went to have the bulb replaced and was told there is no power going to the outlet. So i tool it to a shop to see what is going on and they stated that the relay for the light is bad. This is a very expensive fix that after two years i am still not able to afford. I was told this is a dealer only part and they would have to replace all the wiring so it would be around $700.00.
Water got into tail light, froze and made right turn signal inoperable.
Driver's side headlight went out again. And then one day the car wouldn't start. Jumped the car and it started. We just had the tipm replaced a few months ago. This time they found a burnt tipm connector pin. They replaced the connector and could not duplicate the no-start condition.
My headlights was not working so i bought a replacement bulb. The low beam was out the high beam works. The bulb replacement did not work. I took to a mechanic and he looked at it and said it was my fuse box. The entire thing needed replaced. Being in the business he said it is a known problem with this make and model. The cost to replace the entire thing is costly since the is basically the computer of the car... There is no way to fix without replacing the entire fuse box.this fuse box controls a lot of things that could be safety issues and lighting to me is very important.i have owned many cars and have never had to replace a fuse box. I checked for recalls and there was none. I began looking online and the amount of people who have this make and model and the same problem is astounding but i guess until someone gets hurt chrysler won't do anything about it.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the low beam headlights on the driver's side of the vehicle failed. The contact was able to use the high beams only. The vehicle was taken to a private mechanic, where the headlights were replaced however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The failure was not reported to the manufacturer. The failure mileage was 69,500. The current mileage was 70,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 40 mph, the driver's side head light failed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the total integrated power module was faulty and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 102,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact statedthat the vehicle experienced an increased stopping distance when applying the brakes and the brakes would emit a loud squeaking noise. There was a recall associated with nhtsa campaign id number: 07v196000 (wheels:cap/cover/hub), but the vin was not included. Also, the exterior headlights would illuminate intermittently. The dealer was not notified. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, but denied any assistance with repairs. The failure and current mileages were 53,000. Updated 1/13/12*ljthe consumer stated the high beams would come on, but when she hit the dimmer switch, the dim lights would not come on.also, the tail light was not working properly. The dealer stated there was water in the light assembly. Updated 02/2/9/12updated 03/07/12
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the headlights failed to illuminate. Additionally, the brake lights remained illuminated while driving. The contact that the driver's and passenger's side ball joints and tie rods were replaced several times at brandywine chrysler jeep dodge ram (3807 kirkwood hwy, wilmington, de 19808). The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 43,000.
Driver's side headlight is out. Got the tipm replaced for $700+. That's way too expensive for a headlight.
A couple of weeks ago i was on my way to work and turned on my signal light to make a turn.when i turned my signal light on i noticed that the interior overhead light went on.i found it strange and thought my door may have been opened.a few days later on my way to work the signal lights were no longer working.this is where my serious concerns began.i have a 30 minute commute to work and switch lanes or make turns quite often en route.it gets worse.after a long day at work i ran out to my vehicle to avoid gettin soaked in the rain and when i attempted to turn on my wipers i was infuriated to find out they were no longer working either.needless to say the vehicle is parked in my driveway.fog lights don't work, turn signals, wipers and highbeams are no longer working.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber in april 08, it had 12,00 miles on it. It now has 70,000 miles.it is making a loud clicking noise in the front end.i can feel it in the steering wheel and on the floor board whenever i make a turn or go over a bump.i do not have a warranty, and the dealer wants 75.00 just to look at the car.also, while driving with my small child, my turn signals, high beam headlights, and wipers just stopped working.i have looked at hundreds of other complaints about these same issues, but i do not know of any recalls for these same issues.this is an extreme safety issue while driving. I am not sure how i will be able to pay for these problems with the car.wondering how dodge can get away with these same issues happening with thousands of calibers and them not be held liable to fix it at their cost?will never buy a dodge again!thank you, and i hope to see recalls very soon for these issues!
My passenger side head light went off and on for about 2 weeks before failing to come on at all. Bulb was checked , then replaced. The battery cables were taken off over night to try to reset the computer but nothing worked. I should not have to pay $900 + to fix a headlight on a car 7 years old. Why are they not issuing a recall on a problem that so many people are having?
Left low beam cut out while driving. I replaced the bulb, still not working. Next day, abs, esp,brake, tractioncontrol lights illuminated. I checked all fuses and found nothing. I replaced all fuses just to be safe, still nothing. I called the dealership to ask what the problem could be. I mentioned the low beam and he immediately said that the tipm needs to be replaced. He stated that he had replaced 3 of the same model that month. After being told the cost of the repair, $ 1,200, i was upset. This is a costly repair. There are numerous complaints found on the internet, especially the dodge forums, with these same issues. Many people believe that this is a safety issue and it really is. I have not had the part replaced, but after reading a few complaints of the right low beam also failing, i will not drive this car at night or during adverse weather conditions. I really feel that we as consumers should not be required to pay for a part or its replacement, when the car was built with faulty equipment. Hopefully, dodge will admit this and issue a recall for the tipm before some gets hurt or even worse.
Drivers side low beam only will not work.high beam works low beam does not.
Had to replace the alternator .the charging light was coming on.now the head lights are not working replaced bulbs still not working not getting power tipm issue.
I was driving and my passenger low-beam headlight went out, so i went and bought a new headlight, upon installing it, it still didn't work, but the high beam did. Took it to dodge to see if they could figure it out and was told it's a known issue with calibers and certain jeeps, the tipm went bad on it and it would be almost $1000 to repair it, for a known issue that dodge knows about but hasn't been recalled! 2 weeks later, my highbeam even went out on the passenger side, so now the car is sitting parked, unable to drive with improper lighting & tipm problems!
Was pulled over for drivers side headlight out. Was given a "warning". Drove to nearest parts store, replaced drivers side headlight bulb. Still did not work. Upon further research and diagnostics found no power coming from totally integrated power module (tipm) which can be replaced at the tune of $800. I find a headlight to be important safety device for driving on our highways here in ak as headlights on at all times is the law on most roads. After research there have been several similar complaints. Even replacing the tipm for $800 does not insure the problem stays away. The tipm failed a second time this april 2015 with drivers side lowbeam and passenger side highbeam. Complaint to chrysler has shown no results.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact stated when the lights are turned on the driver side lights fail to illuminate. The high beams are the only functionallights whenever the failure occurred. The drivers side head light alsomalfunctioned.this failure continued to occur for the past two months.the vehicle was taken to the dealer who indicated that a t.i.m.p. Part needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired.the manufacturer was notified of the failure.the approximate failure mileage was 61,055. Vf
There is a known issue with the tipm in these vehicles and they have been recalled in other models with the same tipm when this module fails the headlights stop working and there is no repair other then paying dodge to fix it and they want 1000$ they have recalled other models of chrysler jeeps and dodges which have this same module but not the caliber. I believe this should be addressed. My lights failed when i was driving at night. So this is a major issue.
My car drive side light is not workingand the brakes keep having problems.
The tips is shorting out. Going to cost 2200 to fix. This is a recall in other vehicles around the same year. Why does it not apply to the caliber. Seems to be an issue. Looked into several forums with same issue that keeps popping up.
2007 dodge caliber. The tipm box is malfunctioned, and continues to be. This is an issue associated with the stock, factory tipm box.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 20 mph, the contact noticed that the high and low beam headlights on the passenger's side of the vehicle failed to illuminate. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the bulb needed to be replaced. The bulb was replaced. However, the failure recurred. The vehicle wasthen taken to a dealer, who diagnosed that the totally integrated power module (tipm) needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 62,000.
We've been told we need a fuse box at a cost of $1025.i see many other people are having this same problem.why isn't chrysler fixing this?we're on social security, we can't afford this.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber sxt. While examining the vehicle the contact noticed that moisture was building up inside of the vehicles brake lights. The contact called the manufacturer and was informed that the vehicle could not be repaired. There were no prior warnings. The vehicle had not been diagnosed by a dealer. The failure mileage was 55000 and the current mileage was 77000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the passenger's side low beam failed and days later, the driver's side low beam also failed. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the technician was unable to find a problem. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 99,621 and the current mileage was 105,851.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the passenger side high beam lamp was inoperable. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the fuse box and electrical harness failed and needed replacement. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000. The vin was unavailable.
Low beam headlight on passenger side will not turn on took into a shop and they said that it is the tipm telling the light not to turn on so in other words its a bad tipm. I was made aware that the part would be close to $1200. I've researched this issue online and i see that it is a very common issue. The other day the driver side decided to turn off as well. What happens when i'm driving in the dark and the one headlight that i do have decides to turn off and i get into an accident. A recall needs to be set into motion on this part. Apparently the tipm causes many issues other than just what i'm experiencing.
I have a 2007 sxt caliber, bought it brand new in 07, but now i have this issue.my husband drove the car to work, on his way home he stopped and filled the tank up then he went to eat at p.hut.after we at he went to start it and nothing. It would act like it wanted to, but wouldn't. Well today we look it up on what it could possibly be and some said it was camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Well we replaced them and still nothing. So we decided to take the fuel pump out and behold the connectors going into the fuel pump were fried.which could've caught fire. Called dodge to see if they had any recalls and no they don't they said.i told them i wasn't the only one who has had this issue. They said well take it to the dealer but you will have to pay for the repairs, since the car is older and has some miles on it.my 2 children sit in the back of this car and now knowing that it could've started fire with them in it, really pisses me off and there's nothing they are gonna do about it.really????i will be going to the dealership and showing them what happened to fuel pump connectors and asking what they are gonna do about it.it's not like i'm taking the fuel pump out and burning it up. This is an issue that needs to be looked at and taken care of before someone gets hurt.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while having the vehicle maintenanced, the mechanic advised that the fuel pump wiring had caught fire, burned through the fuel pump and into the fuel tank. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified. The approximate failure mileage was 152,000.
I was driving and the engine quit running i coasted into a turnaround had to be towed to dealer they said wiring at the fuel pump in the tank overheated shorted and burned out the pump the repair was costly and they would not help i do not see this as normal wear but a safety and design flaw.
After sunday service, i was leaving out of the church's parking garage, when the speed on my 2007 dodge caliber unexpectedly accelerated to a speed beyond my ability to control it before hitting, head on, a pillar inside the garage.this resulted in extensive front damage to radiator, hood,. Fender, grill, fan assembly, a/c lines, manifold, throttle, battery, air condenser, u&l reinforcements, & hood latch damage.the car is still at a mechanics garage awaiting costly repairs.old parts are still available.thank god i was not physically injured, just shattered nerves and major inconveniences.
Engine throttle control light came on after pumping gas, vehicle vibrated. Light came on intermittently on trip home, would slow speed down and it would go off. Exited interstate, came to full stop, accelerated to go, and car vibrated and almost stalled as pulling out. Drove vehicle for two more days - light came on and would vibrate - almost stalled in 2 busy intersections. Previous recall on 25k 2007 dodge calibers - mine not included in recall. Unable to get an appt at dodge dealer for a week. Decided this was a safety issue and did not drive. Issue happened while driving and stationary, on highway at high speeds and on city street, turning. Issue caused the vehicle to not go normal speeds - was unable to go posted speed limit. Contacted dodge/chrysler recall - they will not admit this is a widespread issue. Numerous vehicle owners are running into this at 90-130k miles. It is a safety issue if your computer or electronic malfunctions as you are driving 70 mph or through a busy intersection and vehicle stops. Was going various speeds as i was 90 miles away from home 70 mph, then today could not go higher than 40 mph.
The gas pedal messes up it can be at a slight hill or accelerating at a green light. I push the gas pedal down all the way to the floor board only getting slight movement; then the car just accelerates. Other times it acts normal. I took it into a repair shop they said my car was not part of the recall so i paid $504 they said it fine and fixed. The same day of getting my car back it does the same thing so i called chrysler 800#. They to said my 2007 was not part of the recall and to take it back the repair shop and they would reimburse if recall was extended toother 2007 models. There is an issue with acceleration of these gas pedals. I'm 9 mths pregnant and do not have the confidence that my car will move like it is suppose to when pulling out into traffic.
When driving on highway car looses power brake light comes on and off dealer states it's nothing get oil change from dealer stated nothing is wrong.
While driving home from the airport on the highway, my car shut down unexpectedly.my electronic throttle light along with my check engine light came on.my power steering and power brakes seemed not to function as i had to muscle the car to the side of the road.thank goodness it was late at night and traffic was at a minimum.the car sputtered so bad it shut down on the road after i pulled over.after about 15 minutes, i started the car and limped it home.couldn't get the car to do more than 10mph.used my flashers the entire way home.
Accelerated from red light to get on to the freeway, car lurched forward and stalled. Power was lost and had to limp to safely get to the side of the road. Electronic throttle light (bars with lightning bolt) came on. Shut the car completely off and restarted, drove 20 feet and the same thing happened again. Shut the car off again for 5-7 min and was able to safely get off the freeway. Took in to private mechanic the next day and was informed that the throttle body it self went bad and he as seen this a lot with different models of dodge vehicles, yet no recall has been issued. Is going to cost me $500 to get it fixed.i bought the car brand new in 2006 so warranty is out due to age.
On my dodge caliber, every time that i put gas in the car and fill it up the gas will back flush outof the gas tank when the gas pump nozzle turns off. This causes gas spills on my car and on the ground at the gas station. I brought this to the attention of the dealership and they told me to not fill up my gas tank all of the way and that they have this same situation happening on many of their vehicles.
Have had sporadic electrical issues for the last few years, chalked it up to normal wear & tear. After looking at other testimonies online, beginning to realize the issues i've had are similar to those of other caliber owners. Just replaced the alternator in june 2014 and now car is shutting off while driving down the road. Check engine light has been on for 3 weeks and will randomly not be on for a series of drives only to come back on again. Dashboard lights do not come on all the time, i'd say more often than not night driving is done with no dashboard lights. I change headlights & taillights frequently. About to head to autozone now to have it hooked up to diagnostic machine to see if any codes come up for check engine light. Chrysler needs to do a recall asap or there will be several peoples lives at risk, including my entire family seeing as how this is our main vehicle.
Fuel tank overflows every time i fill tank spraying gasoline all over car and on me. I do not ever "top off" my car. This happens at every gas station. Also tie rods have had to been replaced multiple times due to premature wear. Chrysler does not want to address these problems with me and tell me not to fill up my tank all the way, and that it's normal for tierods to have to be replaced three times in under 35k miles.
Fuel pump had to be replaced as well as wiring, located under backseat.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled while entering a residential driveway at extremely low speeds. The vehicle was towed to a local mechanic who performed a diagnostic that located the failure as melted fuel pump wires. The fuel pump was replaced. The failure and the current mileage was 76,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving, the vehicle stalled and would not restart. The vehicle was towed to the contact's home. The contact's spouse (a mechanic) took the rear seat out and discovered that the wires to the fuel pump were burned out which caused them to melt and to affect the fuel pump. The failure occurred twice and the contact had to purchase a new fuel pump within a span of a year. The vehicle had not been taken to an authorized dealership and the contact had not spoken with the manufacturer at the time of the complaint. The failure mileage was approximately 62,000. The current mileage was approximately 77,000. Updated 10/27/10. *lj
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was taken to a private mechanic, who stated that the wiring to the fuel pump had overheated and burned the fuel pump. The contact was concerned that the failure could have led to a fire. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure was reported to the manufacturer. The failure and current mileage was 86,000. Update 09/06/13*lj
My car was parked, upon trying to start the car, no luck.had the car towed to the dealer. Fuel pump was the initial diagnosis, but then also the wiring harness was melted.$642.69 later my car was running.not a happy camper.
Engine warning lights flash, warning check engine light disappear, reappear at will, wont start, system failure, loss of power, speed limit acute loss of power, stalling of engine while at freeway speeds, stalling out at 35-40 mph speeds, noise at gas pedal.
This has happened many times before yesterday. While driving on the freeway, the check engine light comes on, and the car go into a "limp" mode (very little power), and even at full pedal, it slowly slows down. Having had it happen several times before, i learned to pull over, and shut off the car, and let it set for a few minutes. Sometimes times this is not easy, or safe to do. Then it is hard to restart, but will drive somewhat better. This allows me to get to a place that i can shut it off for an extended amount of time (1/2 hour), and then it runs more like normal, but the check engine light stay on for several days. After the check engine light goes out, it is running normal again until the next time. So far, this has not caused an accident, but i'm sure somebody will be hurt or killed before this gets recalled. Good luck follow drivers.
A small brass bushing fell on my right foot one day while driving.i picked it up and put it in the console cup holder.a few days later while accelerating onto the highway the gas pedal stuck and the engine revved.this has happened a few times since.i called chrysler to check if my caliber was covered under the gas pedal recall.i was told the recall only covered vehicles from a certain date range.my caliber was manufactured 2/06.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While in park, the vehicle failed to start. Upon further inspection, the contact noticed that the fuel pump was melted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 183,000.
When pumping gas i cannot allow it to 'fill up' because the gas will leak out instead of telling the handle to stop pumping gas as it normally should. I am aware that dodge durango had a recall on this very matter, yet the caliber has not. I have to keep track of how many gallons i put in so as not to let it over flow. Am i the only owner of a dodge caliber having this issue with the fuel system/gasoline?
Our car was purchased used two years ago and always had an issue with hesitation with both acceleration and idling after completely filling the gas tank. Last week it started having the same hesitation/sputtering issue but without having recently filled up the gas tank. It sputters/hesitates to accelerate while going anywhere between 20-30 mph (we did not take it on the freeway out of fearing it would die going faster so we are unsure how it does at higher speeds). It also started to stall while idling at a stop light. It started up again fine both times it died but continued to hesitate while accelerating. Our radio hasn't come on a few times when we start the car (this has happened approximately ten times since we've had the car) and the fuse is fine. We pop the fuse out and put it back in and the radio starts up fine again. We are taking it to a mechanic on saturday to have the system "updated" because we saw there was a bulletin about our model of car needing an update, but i'm fairly sure this has to do with the tipm after reading other people's stories online.
I bought this car used with a 90 day full warranty and 2 year power train. In the first 90 days i took the car back to toyota used lot who in turn took it to dodge to investigate the loose steering and also the stalling issues. Dodge repeatedly said nothing is wrong. To date, a year later, they wont fix the fuel pump which i have learned is a known issue on this model/year and causes stalling. I have stalled on the freeway and have children.... Its very upsetting.
While traveling 80 mph on the interstate my caliber stopped accelerating and i rapidly lost speed; however, the car was still running and no matter how far i pushed the gas pedal it would not accelerate. I had to turn on my hazards and make my way across 4 lanes to get off the interstate. I was able to make it to a gas station by coasting where i stopped the caliber, turned it off, and let it sit for a minute. When i turned it back on it seemed to be fine. In doing research for repair i've found there's a whole community of dodge owners that are experiencing this loss of acceleration and getting the run around from dodge dealers.i believe dodge should be responsible for my repairs as there's no regular maintenance that i can do as a car owner to regulate/improve the electronic throttle control and it seems to be a faulty part or computer function that i have no control over.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While in park, the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and then to a dealer who were unable to diagnose or repair the vehicle. In addition, three weeks later while driving at 45 mph, the vehicle stalled. The contact was unable to restart the vehicle.the oil pressure warning light illuminated as the accelerator pedal was depressed but the vehicle failed to accelerate.the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The manufacturer wasmade aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 107,000.
While driving auto stops being able to accelerate. Have to coast to side and stop. Throttle control light comes on. Usually after little while can turn back on and go. I also have chrysler sebring 2008 tjat does same thing even after. Multiple trips to dodge service.read where this is a biv problem many are having but dodge/chryslerstill doing nothing to repair. Dangerous i was on freeway going 65 mp and almost hit ny four cars. Happens more at fast speeds.
Red lightning bolt on said throttle body so replaced that alternator and battery still no power only goes 25 mph was told electric accelerator pedal but not sure so many people with issue on same car i don't know what to do
At first, the service engine soon light would begin flashing when i hit the accelerator pedal and i lost power. Could not go over 35 mph. Then by the time i made it off the highway, the light stayed flashing all the time. And i have not been able to regain proper power at all. It uses a ton of gas and when sitting in park, if i push the break pedal, there is a clicking noise under where the shifter is located. With losing power on the highway, other traffic and myself were in danger. I looked online and many many ppl have the same issue with no luck of fixing the problem even after hundreds of dollars at the mechanic. Also, many have filed complaints and have gotten no where and very negative responses when calling dodge. I dont have hundreds of dollars for repairs as i am on disability. Hope this has became a recall issue and i dont have a huge out of pocket expense. I travel to drs alot
This is another issue i've had with this car since i bought it back around thanksgiving 2006. The cars fuel gauge does not give an accurate reading. I've found info about this problem online which involves replacing the fuel sending unit hoses or something. I called chrysler about this and i cant believe they do not cover the cost of this obvious defect. Tons of info on the web about this one too. I've lived with this issue as well as my numerous suspension problems. Thankfully i know my cars mpg's so i can calculate where my fuel tank should be using the trip odometer like i do on my motorcycle - still very annoying and should be fixed free of charge.
Bought car used in 2014. Within a week the maniverter needed replaced. Dash lights recently stopped working while driving at night. Cannot see speedometer or other gauges at night. Transmission stops working when it is hot out , trans temp light comes on and trans shuts down when driving on highways which has almost caused numerous accidents. Car stalls several times after filling with gas causing dangerous situations when driving especially pulling out into traffic after filling gas tank. Control arms and ball joints on front of car replaced with parts from dodge dealer and are bad for a second time . We will never buy another dodge vehicle.
I recently purchased the vehicle from the original owner. The vehicle light flashes while driving. The mileage is currently 91k miles. Now the lightening bolt symbol will not turn off and the vehicle will not accelerate over 39 miles. I have not been able to drive the vehicle for over a week.
Engine throttle control light came on after pumping gas, vehicle vibrated. Light came on intermittently on trip home, would slow speed down and it would go off. Exited interstate, came to full stop, accelerated to go, and car vibrated and almost stalled as pulling out. Drove vehicle for two more days - light came on and would vibrate - almost stalled in 2 busy intersections. Previous recall on 25k 2007 dodge calibers - mine not included in recall. Unable to get an appt at dodge dealer for a week. Decided this was a safety issue and did not drive. Issue happened while driving and stationary, on highway at high speeds and on city street, turning. Issue caused the vehicle to not go normal speeds - was unable to go posted speed limit. Contacted dodge/chrysler recall - they will not admit this is a widespread issue. Numerous vehicle owners are running into this at 90-130k miles. It is a safety issue if your computer or electronic malfunctions as you are driving 70 mph or through a busy intersection and vehicle stops. Was going various speeds as i was 90 miles away from home 70 mph, then today could not go higher than 40 mph.
Was driving home one night and my car stared losing power at lower speeds. After getting off the interstate and turning left from a complete stop my car died. This stop, go, die cycle continued all the way home next morning get ready to go to work and nothing. Turned out the flue pump and wire harness had meltedand burnt up. Luky we didn't burn up too. With i could upload pictures here.
Car quit running. Mechanic found top of fuel pump wiring burnt and hole melted through top of fuel pump.
Feels like the car is going to hit a corner or bump and the whole front and tires are gonna come off. Also the gas cap light keeps coming on followed by the engine light. For some reason my gas cap keeps opening itself like there is air or pressure literally unscrewing it. The gas cap happens when parked
While driving the car would loose all power and engine would die. If i slowed down to make a turn, car would do same thing, loose power and engine would die. It would also have trouble starting. Wouldn't stay running. In school pickup line, car would loose all power and engine would die as soon as gas peddle was pushed on. This would happen on the main highway, city roads, school pickup/ drop off line, making turns, and when first starting car. It would also do these things when slowing down and accelerating. I had this problem with the car for nearly a month, before the car completely shut down and wouldn't start. One of the wires connected to fuel pump burnt through the housing. With the fuel pump being in the gas tank don't you think there could have been an explosion.
Upon completely filling the fuel tank, the engine repeatedly stalls after i've driven it for a few minutes. It doesn't matter if i'm on the freeway or in the middle of an intersection trying to make a turn, the engine just dies. This issue has the potential to create a very hazardous if not life threatening situation.
After days of car hesitating and trying to stall, vehicle broke down and was unable to be started in parking lot of local grocery store.vehicle was towed home and after further investigation was found to be a faulty fuel pump causing the issue.the fuel pump was changed. Old fuel pump was factory part, and was found to have burnt wiring and melted pins.after further investigation have found this is a common problem, and am severely concerned as to why part was never recalled.between towing, fuel pump, and also battery change from cranking car trying to get it to start, repairs were over $350.
I have had issues with this vehicle such as the o2 sensors that has to be repaired every year. The safety issues with this vehicle if you are at stop sign or just idle in traffic- the engine light will begin to blink and the car begins to move back and forth..also, it constantly over heats after much repairs- these symptoms continue to persist-the gentleman at good year told me that some of your parts o2 sensor was recalled- failed to get assistance from chrysler- the overheating is annoying- i can not drive over 45 miles without over heating. I had to pull over at the exit while other cars- with incoming traffic was coming very fast and the car is in motion on the highway with other drivers- because the car begins to pull - i have to pull over so that the engine can cool down- ..sometimes in traffic- the abs light will come on and begin to shift gears in traffic- this happens occasionally.the safety issues are engine overheats, start jerking back and forth at stop signs or just being idle in traffic, occasionally just shift acceleration in the middle of traffic.th most recent incident was last night- i had to pull over- car started jerking- it overheated- 07-19-2017i am filing another complaint- called chrysler said that i had to pay for the diagnostic testing on something that is their manufacturer fault.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the fuel pump ignited and burning fumes started to emit into the vehicle. The contact inspected the vehicle and stated that a plug on top of the fuel pump melted and became exposed to the fuel vapors. As a result, the wiring harness and fuel pump needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure who did not offer any assistance. The vehicle was repaired. The failure and current mileage was 177,000.
My engine stalls when at stop light/signs. This happens after refueling the car. I heard of other chrysler/dodge models that have had the same problem that are being investigated though my car is notthe same engine or years being looked at. Engine is 2.4 l. It does this for up to about 10 times and i can keep it running in neutral and revving the engine. Not sure of the date that i first notices this but has been happening for about a year or so. Mileage and date are from latest time.
Vehicle rolled to a stop along the road. Was unable to restart. I removed the rear seat to inspect the fuel pump and connections. Both the top of the plastic fuel pump and it's plastic connection was melted from an electrical melt down, just millimeters from the full gas tank. This could've result in an explosion and fatality. Apparently from what i've been reading online this is quite common with this model. Something needs to be done before there is a fatality.
While driving my 2007 dodge caliber with my two young kids in the back my electronic throttle control light on the dashboard came on about 30 seconds later my car would not accelerate. I was able to pull into a parking lot without causing an accident. After buying a e.t.c. And having it replaced about 12 months later the etc went out again this time on the highway while doing 65 mph my car would no longer acceleratethe etc had rusted closed again. Liking online some of these cars have been recalled for an issue withthe etc. I'm afraid for my family's safety there's no warning other than a light and moments later your car iisno longer accelerating.
My car has stalled several times. Started in december 2014 car stalled an i turned it back on basically turning heat off. Since then it randomly sputtered. Driving a month later it shut off on me while driving, i turned heat off again thinking it was that. Took it to the shop and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. A month later engine light comes on an code is the one for gas cap. I bought a new one, 2 weeks later while parked waiting for my kids to come out of school my car dies acting like it wants to start. Later to find out the problem is the fuel pump! the wires inside fuel pump and the harness were burnt up ! it's really wired and fixed. I didn't get a new fuel pump just new wires. Can someone please let me know their situation! i'm scared to even get back in the car especially with two kids who sit in the back seat
4 sets of headlight have blown on the car in the last 6 months. Then my gears aren't shifting correctly because it's making a clicking noise which has been heard by several people. Also the steering wheel clicks when you turn it on occasions. On a 2007 dodge caliber sxt2.0.
Sincere concern over the door lock function.when the unlock button is pressed, the buttons pop up at a very fast speed and protrude upward.concern:when passengers are resting their heads against the doors, and the unlock is pressed, the passengers are vulnerable to having their eye extensively damaged. No incident happened other than passenger's arm was injured by same action/lock.
Front passenger door lock will not stay locked. The locks flip up and down and the door sometimes opens by itself...been to dealer 5 times.....they replaced mechanisms twice. Once they never looked at it after having it all day and once they claimed nothing wrong with it...bought dodge caliber end june and had prob. Immediately; can lock doors and return to car and driver lock is open or door popped ajar.
A dodge caliber locked me out in the middle of nowhere with the vehicle running and the keys locked inside. This is an engineering defect. There is a computer which generates the "lock" signal and it should never do so without a driver as detected by the seat switch. This problem could be fixed with a line or two of code on the computer. It is possible for the car to lock out the driver who gets out to save his kids from a burning vehicle etc, so this is a safety hazard. A more common mishap would be the people with manual garage doors who get out to close the garage door, then the car locks itself with the keys in the car.no car should ever lock itself automatically without a driver as detected by the seat switch.
I was driving my car on i-10 and the car suddenly jerked and slowed down despite my foot still being on the gas pedal, the car began to shake and then the engine stopped on the middle of the road. I coasted to the median, and waited for 3-4 minutes, (mostly to catch my breath as i was lucky i was not run over by semi's) i restarted the mph was the norm) i had to put on my hazard lights and drive to the next exit. The mechanic said the control board for the crankshaft was blown and needed to be replaced. Seems like a very dangerous situation for other drivers and owners of a dodge caliber if it is a common defect.07dodcaliber/pc684 dodge crankshaft position sensor.
The light of temperature for transmission went on and thecar start running slowly i stopped for 15 minutes and the car start running fine but when i took the high for more the 30 minutes do the same every time.
Whenever the vehicle attempts to accelerate it begins jerking and shaking. Won't shift properly. It had done before, after i had owned the vehicle for 4 years. At that time the transmission had to be replaced.it is now another 4 years later i am going through the same thing and the dealership says i need another transmission.
Driving on the highway at 70 mph and car transmission temperature light came on and the power to the car declined to a coast and i had to try and pull to the shoulder in heavy traffic with snow on the road which almost caused me to get hit by other vehicles going the speed of 70 mph. This has happened numerous times i have taken it in to the dealer whom recommended that i have the transmission service done by the dealer which i paid for and complied to have performed. It continued to happen and still looses power going highway speed of 65. I have taken it to the dealer over and over and they deny any liability and say everything is ok. I have the lifetime powertrain warranty on the vehicle. I am going to end up dead thanks to a faulty transmission in the car. It has never towed anything so no stress is ever applied to the transmission. Now i am pissed because my wife was almost hit when she was driving it on the highway during rush hour and it reduced poweron her. I have paperwork showing the dealer checking it and saying it is ok not to mention the numerous times i have gone in and they say they have heard nothing regarding problems with the caliber. If you look on line there are plenty of us citizens that are plaqued with this same problem.......updated 12/03/15updated 11/13/2017
Wont accelerate properly.wont go go over 30 mph sometimes.no power.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while parking, the vehicle ceased and failed to shift into gear. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to be diagnosed nor repaired. The local dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was contacted and referred the contact to nhtsa. The failure mileage was 180,000.
Takata recall- my air bag light stays on all the time, also i had to replace the electronic control module, it was completely full of corrosion. All of the front and back suspention had to be replaced, all control arms upper and lower, struts, the whole thing. The transmission will not shift properly, causing the engine to stall. I have had the suspention fixed, and the electrical replaced. The transmission fluid changed but mechanic could not find out what the problem is. It does not shift properly when on highway driving, and will not down shift when stopping, car stalls out. The electrical module would not put out enough power to run the lights, wipers, fan or radio. This car is a real piece of crap, dodge should be ashamed of themselves for even putting it on the market. We want action, for what we paid for this junk.
Was driving 35-40 mph when etc light came on and car was jolting forward and losing power back and forth. Belletire wouldn't touch it cuz they said it seemed to them like a recall issue. He said that either the ecu needed reset or the drive by wire system was malfunctioning . This is also after my control arms were bad at 48000 mile. Both of these problems i have had have thousands of complaints online for them and are notorious for these problems.
While driving auto stops being able to accelerate. Have to coast to side and stop. Throttle control light comes on. Usually after little while can turn back on and go. I also have chrysler sebring 2008 tjat does same thing even after. Multiple trips to dodge service.read where this is a biv problem many are having but dodge/chryslerstill doing nothing to repair. Dangerous i was on freeway going 65 mp and almost hit ny four cars. Happens more at fast speeds.
I had 62,000 miles a year ago.i was driving on a 3 lane highway though town in the center lane and all of the sudden my car lost power and i worked my way over to the right hand lane, thank goodness that there was a shopping center parking lot there so i coasted in and found a mechanic to work on my car and he replaced my throttle body, but it cost me $600 out of pocket.now a year later with only driving my car 10,000miles more i am noticing hesitation in the transmission which i recognizing from year ago and i am amazed there still no recall on this problem.
Almost a year ago my 2007 dodge caliber sxt started jerking back and forth and felt like it was going to die. The electronic throttle body light came on but as soon as i slowed down, the light went off. I called my local dealership and told them about the problem. They stated that if the light in the dashboard wasn't staying on they could not get a code from the car but i could bring it in and they could try it anyways for $105. I took it someone i know and they read the code off of it, 2120 p2110, i called the dealership back and told them the code. They told me that they would have to run their own tests and charge me to see what was happening but if there was no light than they couldn't do anything. I asked them if this is dangerous to drive then because i have a baby in the car. They said no, as long as i can pull over fast enough to restart the car. Last friday, the car started to do it again and i was on the highway with my 2 yr old in the car. My car started loosing power and the car behind me almost hit me so i turned around and got my fiance's car. When i tried to take it to the dealership the next morning the car would not go above 2000 rpms and so i drive 10 mph all the way through the city (i got up to 30 mph down hills). I think that all of this is dangerous and having dealerships telling people that they cannot fix the problem is crazy! the dealership now wants to replace my entire throttle body and i am wondering if a replacement would have been avoided if they would have looked at the car last year!
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the transmission over temperature warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where a diagnostic was performed. The dealer cleaned the coolant lines, replaced the transmission fluid and the trans axle however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 37,000 and the current mileage was 39,000.updated 10/24/13the transmission over temp light illuminated in july 2009 and again in october 2009. Both times the vehicle slowed down and barely move.the transaxle was replaced in october 2009 and again in august 2013
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 70 mph, the vehicle decelerated and the linn bolt warning light illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the electronic control, the power train activator, and the actuator control system needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 171,570.
There is a faulty switch that controls the gear shifter behind my break pedal.this will be the third time in four years that i have had it replaced.when the switch goes out, i cannot drive my car - i cannot switch gears. This can happen anytime, anywhere regardless of weather conditions, etc.
Able to shift gears:without pressing the brake and without the car being started, the key only has to be in the "on" position (not actually started).
I just bought this car from the dealer about 6 months ago. I was driving and then went over a bump and my engine light came on. I was so worried why that had happened so i went to an auto zone to get the engine light checked and he told me nothing is coming up on the computer so it should turn off. So then it did turn off but then last week my car started acting weird and the engine light kept coming back on and going off. When the engine light would come on sometimes even the abs light and temperature light at the same time. One time i was even driving on the expressway and going 55 and the car suddenly slowed down and would barely move while i was on the expressway i could have got hit!! i brought it to a different dodge dealer then i had purchased it from to get an opinion and found out it was the totally integrated power train control module. This part is $700 and i do not have the money to pay for this. This is so upsetting because i just got the car. I started doing my research on the internet and have seen my exact car has had so many recalls and seen many people have had the exact same problem on the totally integrated power train control module. The dodge dealer service assistant told me he has had to put these in many calibers and think there is something wrong with them from the factory. I am beginning for your help for myself and everyone with this car that has had or is going to get this problem because it is extremely expensive and dangerous.
"takata recall"while driving the 2007 dodge caliber, it suddenly jerks and down shifts and rpms seem to sky rocket, the lightning bolt symbol illuminates and it drops speed and will not accelerate over 30 mph max, it tends to do this on hills or after you have to brake slightly for any reason and then accelerate again to maintain speed or to get up a hill. No matter how much you take it easy on the acceleration or how hard you push it, it doesn't help after it goes into this slow mode. The only way to get the vehicle to operate normal again is to pull off the road, put it in park, turn it off and then wait and restart it again, some times it has taken up to 5 times or trying to restart it before it finally restarts. This vehicle carries children in it every day, and it has became very unsafe to operate, having a great chance of being rearended or hit by another vehicle in the side due to loss of power unexpectedly
Car goes in to limp mode do to transmission over temp when driving on the freeway
I purchased a used 2007 dodge caliber for $4500as is, drove it 3 miles from place of purchase when the check engine light came on. I took it to a mechanic who ran the code and informed me the transmission needed serviced. I paid $358. To service it and was told that the light would go out on its own after a few cycles. Light went out only to come back on with in the month while driving on the highway and losing all power and transmission temp light coming on. Took car back and was told it would be $4000. More to replace transmission. Cvts are junk and need recalled!!!!!!
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While in park, the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and then to a dealer who were unable to diagnose or repair the vehicle. In addition, three weeks later while driving at 45 mph, the vehicle stalled. The contact was unable to restart the vehicle.the oil pressure warning light illuminated as the accelerator pedal was depressed but the vehicle failed to accelerate.the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The manufacturer wasmade aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 107,000.
While going down i75 the transmission went into limp mode slowed the car down to 10 mph on the freeway luckily we had someone following us so we wouldn't get hit...we had to have my towed 2.5 hrs away from where we live to have it fixed cause no deals with the cvt's...really need to have a recall on this...this is way to dangerous...it only goes in reverse when it goes into limp mode...please investigate this... The dealer wants 3000.00 just for transmission which the need to fix for free cause they know what these cvt's do..
Driving down the highway, all of my dash lights came on-battery, fuel, temp, etc. Car lost speed and became sluggish. Lost power steering and pulled over. Car immediately died and would not go into park. Locked up completely. After about 30 mins, it started back up and ran for pax 3 blocks before doing it again. Had it towed. Replaced the alternator, then 3 weeks later same issues. Replaced the battery. Did not fix it. Now told its a common issue for the dodge caliber and is the control module which is a 1000 dollar part plus labor. And that dodge is aware of the issue and has not recalled them. I do not feel i should be stuck with the costs of a major repair that is a design flaw from the manufacturer that they have been aware of for years and is obviously a hazard when it shuts down immediately while driving with no warning. My two young children and 84 year old grand mother were with me in 100 degree weather on the side of the highway for hours while waiting on a tow and a family member to come get us since we couldn't ride in the tow truck. After reading forums online, hundreds if not thousands of caliber owners have had the same issue. Some had cars that were only two weeks old! i would like to request an investigation and hopefully a recall happen.
While driving earlier this month, my car suddenly slowed down to 15 mph and went into limp mode. I could barely get the speed up to 35 mph and keep it at 35 to get the car home. After calling a local auto shop and two area dealerships (go dodge arapahoe and christopher's dodge world), i came to discover that the throttle body was worn. The representative from the shop said that this is something he has often seen. Indeed, after doing some research on caliber forums, it seems that this happens very frequently to 2007 calibers. This is an extremely dangerous problem that is happening very frequently in 2007 dodge calibers. Someone could get hurt or killed if their car suddenly slows to 15-35 mph with no warning. It is dangerous, irresponsible, and immoral for chrysler to continue to allow people to drive the 2007 calibers with the knowledge that these cars are equipped with a faulty piece of equipment that causes the car to rapidly decelerate.
The turn signal stayed on, everything electric shut off, then when i put the car in park and took out my key, the car was still running!! this happened twice and no one can figure out what could possibly be wrong. Then my check engine light went on. The diagnostic test read p0708. I was told i cannot simply fix this sensor, that i would need a whole new transmission. My car is 4 years old and has 53,000 miles on it! how could i need a new transmission, who can afford a new transmission!? the car has been extremely well taken car of, normal oil changes, inspections, i just bought 2 new front tires! this is unbelievable.
My service engine light came on, took it to advance auto and it popped codes p2006, p1607, p0722, p0717.i changed all codes except p1607 because they were cheaper. The pcm runs 299.00 or more and i cannot afford that. My vehicle barely made it home, it had very little power. After changing the sensors, it runs smooth until you put it in gear, (service light still on and blinking) then it shakes so bad and has limp power. I cannot get back to advance to run codes again and would like to know if i need to re program the pcm? where can i get this done? the nearest dodge dealer is in crossville, tn, a 45 minute drive and i am scared to drive this thing. I swear, i wish i never would have bought it, worst car ever.please help me get this running right again, i am still paying for it.it has been parked since march 2016.
When ever we are going down the highway are 65 mph the transmission temp light comes on and the car goes limp and wont run normal till it cools down.
Driving on interstate 55 back to peoria,il . Car interior and dash lights flashing and surging. Smelt something burning. Car died, lucky got to shoulder of freeway. Had it towed from pontiac, il. To firestone in peoria,il.diagnosis, hole in a/c compressor(possible pistons blew through casing), shorted starter, fried battery
Transmission temp light comes on due to faulty sensor causing car to go in limp mode.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber from a young man come to find out he only paid $325 off of a car lot he has a dealers license and he was the only owner before me and did not tell me about the struts, there was a recall on them also has bad sensors ( gas, engine coolant and pcm internal sensors) sold the car knowingly and did not get the recalls done when needed i need something done i have five children and one grandchild who are at risk me driving and having a wreck. I do not have a document about my strutsbut i have had it looked at by several mechanics
Problem with front struts the steering wheel as well . The whole front end moves horrible
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, a howling noise would be heard from the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer where the contact was informed that the vehicle needed new brakes, tie rods and a transmission. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 75,500.
On approx. Oct. 13, 2011, my 2007 dodge caliber stalled and quit running on fwy, and i immediately took to local mechanic.it was determined at that time that a throttle body assembly was needed to prevent this from happening.it worked fine until dec. 23, 2011 when i was out in the desert making a trip to flagstaff, az. When my car once again died and stalled on hwy i40.i was in front of a semi truck at a speed about 70 mph and it started stalling and then died right in front of the semi.luckily there was an exit that i veered the car into and coasted into a stop.it was towed to a local gas station where there they could not determine the cause.i was told since the car had cooled over 30 min. It was "ok to drive" about 20 miles to dealership in bullhead city, az.i took it to swantys chrysler where it was left there over christmas holidays.i returned to be informed that they could not determine problem and the throttle body was in working order and that was not the problem.i was informed i could drive it home, and when this occurs, "to pull over and let cool for 30 min. And resume driving".i was in fear of my life and others taking the 350 mile trip home, not driving over 60 mph.i then filed a complain with chrysler corp. Where i spoken to numerous customer service, and supervisors.they wanted to me get a second opinion from a ca dealer, because they questioned why i "took it to az." to be diagnosed.i explained several times that i didn't take it there, it failed there.i can give names and dates from dec. 28th until now of reps. I have spoken to.when i took it to moss brothers in riverside, they also determined that they could not pinpoint the problem, but suggested a couple of parts be replaced, and "it could help problem:" at the tune of $800.00, but could not guarantee it would solve the issue.
I own a 2007 dodge caliber and i am the original owner. Every time i am in the shop, they say the repair is either the throttle body or the pcm and/or the cam.i believe this is connected to the gas pedal control and is a hazardous safety issue. There are several complaints on the internet for similar problems with this car. Please look into a recall. Here is a link to one place i found people complaining. There were other sites. Http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/webx/.f0f6bb2?displayrecent[xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
I went to get my oil changed an the oil change person said he could not change my oil because the oil pan is rotting out from rust an there's another pan there that looks bad to i guessing must be transmissioncover,i have never in my life heard of a oil pan rusting out .the car is like new,what do i do.
Car will randomly start shaking like there is barely any power. I have had to replace the alternator twice. Numerous throttle issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred i was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. Now the air bag light in the cluster constantly turns off and on and beeps while the car is shaking.
The transmission on the calibers overheat. This causes mechanical problems that could cause accidents, injury or death.
While driving on i40 from wilmington, nc the car just shut offunexpectedly throttle control light(lightning bolt) came on, car was hard to control, was slowly able to get the car off the road and restarted, moments after restart while trying to pull back onto the highway it cut off again, after attempting to get going several times it finally started and did not cut off until we reached our destination. This has happened dozens of times now with no luck finding a fix or being able to properly diagnose the problem. This is a terribly scary situation to be in on the highway , i wish nhtsa would investigate this problem as i see this has been reported to them hundres of times for this model year the oldest report of this was in 9/2006 to a brand new 2007 caliber this is crazy , something must be done. Dodge is consistently ripping people of with repair bills that dont seem to be repairing the problem as you can read in several of the complaints.
Car started making loud grinding noise under hood while accelerating during regular driving. Had independent mechanic diagnose noise. Was advised gear inside transmission 'broken' transmission will have to be replaced, cannot be fixed. Caliber has cvt transmission which had widespread/known issues. The transmission should at least last the life of a car loan when the car us purchased fairly new. Dodge refuses to take ownership of problem although it is documented all over internet including youtube . If other manufacturers are assisting in repairing/replacing these transmissions, why can't dodge. I am also interested to know of any class action suits to join based on other known issues, some i have fixed, some i hope i can get rid of the car before i encounter. Dodge marketed this car knowing of the faulty issues...isn't that criminal?
While trying to accelerate on highway vehicle began to jerk and lose speed. Now when i press the gas pedal it hesitates and at high speeds jerks and loses power. Truck behind me had to slam on brakes and almost caused severe accident. Dodge needs to fix immediately.i don't have any money to even try to fix since i don't know where to start.please help all of us dodge caliber owners.
My dodge caliber 2007 stuck in part. I take it to the dealer but they say i must pay for the repair because the gear box is not part of the transmission. The dodge dealer told me that the chain in the gear box is broken, but i noticed on the internet therea alot of owner have the same problem . I just want to know what ican do to get them (the dodge dealer) to look in this problem (car stuck in park).
I have a 07 caliber bought off a individual cash price.wasn't aware of the concern issue with the front left broken struts,. No start or no crank due to theft system wireless control module. ...water leak from sun roof drain tubes. ...blown struts. ...engine and transmission control modules may need to be updated at the same time. ...no start or no crank due to theft system issue. ...excess drain on battery due to faulty radio.as well moan type noise from exhaustsqueek noise from clutch pedalac compressor and condensor replacment due to "slugging" conditionnoise from hvac blower motor due to debirsswish sound from rear suspensionsoftware update for steering angle sensor faultwhistle sound from left outside mirror assemblymetallic rattle sound from liftgate driving around town
I heard a rumbling noise under the car took it to dealer and they said it wasn't safe to drive. Told me my whole rear end was rusted out and i paid $1600 for repairs. Now my car made a noise while my tires were going took it shop they said see a dealer on the way there my car stopped going forward. Good thing i wasn't on the highway. I could back into a parking space semi safely. Both problems in 3 months and my warranty is no more on my transmission.
Car won't run for more than an hour without overheating transmission oil (transmission lightwent on).i was driving on the highway when i noticed a lack of speed. Pressing on the accelerator didn'thelp. I was able to pull over slowly, but safely. The car went to a complete stop. Waited over an hour for the tow truck to arrive. Later i discovered that you have to wait about half an hour, and the car starts normal. Worst car i ever bought. Apparently not all dodge caliber vehicles share the same problem, but i checked on the web and it is a consistent problem with other models that share the same transmission.
At approx 6pm on 11/11 while attempting to enter the interstate my vehicle began to jerk violently.the check engine light began to blink and the vehicle would not exceed 35 mph.i took the vehicle to a local autozone to have it diagnostic.multiple misfires on all cylinders.i had the spark plugs replaced that weekend because my dealers repair shop was full.problem still occurred so i left the car at the dealer for them to check the engine.the camshaft sensor needs to be replaced.this is not covered under the 50,000 miles engine and power train warranty because it is not a moving part.i just had to replace both ball joints and upper and lower control arms on the car in june.it is currently at 42,600 miles.the alignment is off again so i'm suspecting the ball joints are going bad again.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that after the vehicle approached a stop sign, the accelerator pedal had to be depressed numerous times to increase speed. The vehicle was not repaired or diagnosed. The manufacturer was not notified on the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 94,000.
When i am driving on the freeway for any distance over 30 miles and the temperature is over 70 degrees outside, the trans oil temp signal comes on and i loss all power to the transmission. This can be a serious issue, because this happen on the freeway / highway. It is a continuous problem. When i initially took it to the dealership, i was told that since they couldn't recreate it, they couldn't fix it. This problem has caused me to limit trips or borrow / rent a car to go anywhere of any distance. I have had this issue for over two years, but didn't realize how many other dodge caliber owners were experiencing the same issue until recently.
On approximately february 5th around 8:00pm my family and i were driving home from being at sister's house and the dash board/instrument panel lighting went completely out.we can no longer see our tachometer or speedometer at night.we contacted our dealership while our warranty was still in effect and to our surprise the warranty did not cover electrical and we were told that it would cost $800.00+ to have it replaced.safety hazard.now at 88,623 miles our transmission is beginning to slip.dodge needs to fix this.
I have had constant problems with this car.my key abruptly stopped working last year and i have to pay $500 because the dealership said the computer could no longer recognized my key so i had to get a new one.my gear shaft began to jam and i had to pay $200 to get a chip replaced because it was shot.now my totally incorporated power module was shot today when i took it to get checked at the dealership today.the cost is estimated to be $1150.i am sick and tired of all the problems this car is presenting in my life.
Highway driving at 55 mph, tachometer suddenly went up to 4000 rpm and vehicle started to slow down and stop.no reaction from the gear selector.no more movement front or back.call aaa and tow to garage.informed that cvt transmission was the problem and no repair was possible.only option was a used transmission.car is now awaiting that repair.also seems to be a gas pedal issue.not sure at this point as vehicle is unopperable.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While parked, the contact attempted to move the gear shifter to drive but it was stuck in park. The contact was able to move the gear shifter after several minutes. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer for diagnostics or repairs. The approximate failure mileage was 76,000.
When doing a brake job i noticed the front k member had a corrosion hole in the back of it, this is the front sub frame that holds the powertrain and front suspension.
I do not know what to think or what to do!!!! i have had multiple issues with my caliber since i purchased it.the first time it happened was back in 2008 or 2009 after i purchased the vehicle and it decided it needed to shut off on me in the middle of the road. A while later the entire electrical system died and i had no dash-lights/headlights/ emergency lights/ wipers/ just keep going with more electrical necessary safety equipment.then another set of issues arose... Since we have had multiple parts of the whole car fixed and or replaced most recently the suspension, transmission, and the same sensory that was fixed earlier (crankshaft sensor).now only 4 months since all of those issues were fixed my car is worse then it was before.....driving down the road the vehicle will attempt to stall (as an automatic), the rpms have a mind of their own... Oh and don't let me forget that the dealer can find no issues or malfunctions with the vehicle as it does not produce an error code when connected to a diagnostic reader.(just a side note i might be an idiot but a mechanical error will not produce a error code as it is mechanical and not electrical...but i could be mistaken).now what happens the day i am driving down the road with my children and the vehicle decides it is done and shuts off....i can see that there are multiple complaints about the same issue and there have been no major fixes/recalls/statements.if it is a well known fact that dodge and their cvt transmissions have malfunction issues; why can't there be one swift fix to make the vehicle safe to drive.or since no one has died at the hand of chrysler due to these malfunctions it is not important enough to be addressed?
While driving on the freeway on the way home, the engine shut off because of the transmission failure.both power steering and brakes were lost.had to quickly get over on the shoulder.fortunately, not a lot of traffic.both my grandchildren were in the car and an accident could have happened....unsafe.took the car in and at 98000 miles was informed i needed a new transmission because the mechanic shop stated the transmission is no good and it needs replaced (diagnostic testing revealed the transmission issue).
Vehicle was involved in frontal collision with run off tire from a trailer being pulled by a pickup truck. Frontal driver side received damage to electrical wiring harness which shut down onboard computer system. Upon impact the vehicle seized operation and shut down air bag deployment. Steering control was lost due to half shaft joint was sheered apart.
Started hearing grinding noise when car was de-accelerating. Brought car to garage where i was told i needed a new transmission.i was told the cvt transmission was a sealed unit so it couldn't be repaired.it took two weeks in a chrysler dealership to get repaired at chrysler's expense (lifetime powertrain warranty).even though the repair was free, i still had to pay for two weeks of car rentals since the dealership did not have any loaner cars available (amazingly there were two in the lot when i picked the car up).this car has been nothing but a nightmare since purchasing in october 2007.seeing all of the other complaints on this site, it still amazes me there hasn't been any recalls for any of the problems associated with this car.but then again the us government owns chrysler..........
The gas pedal messes up it can be at a slight hill or accelerating at a green light. I push the gas pedal down all the way to the floor board only getting slight movement; then the car just accelerates. Other times it acts normal. I took it into a repair shop they said my car was not part of the recall so i paid $504 they said it fine and fixed. The same day of getting my car back it does the same thing so i called chrysler 800#. They to said my 2007 was not part of the recall and to take it back the repair shop and they would reimburse if recall was extended toother 2007 models. There is an issue with acceleration of these gas pedals. I'm 9 mths pregnant and do not have the confidence that my car will move like it is suppose to when pulling out into traffic.
2007 dodge caliber 2.0 cvt transmission: bought june 13/2007 brand new vin [xxx] 5 mi on vehiclewhen purchased we are senior citizens on social security 31,000 miles scraping , grinding noise not brakes-has gotten worse -much worse.grinding starts as soon as car put in gear, worse as speed increases. Talked with dodge dealers service departments -in albany ny and baltimore md they know of the problem:turns out to be inside the transmission. Not repairable. We were blessed to make it home safe from trip to upstate ny from maryland.eras still ringing 24 hrs later.told out of warranty and cost will be $6,000 to replace transmission!! this is now a well known problem for the 'word class powertrain.daimler chrysler, nissan and hyundai - all used this transmission they jointly developed.is ntsb going to demand a recall??[xxx]parts of this document have been redacted to protect personally identifiable information pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
I am not sure if this is the correct category as far as the elec.sability controlthe manual refers to it as the electronic throttle control when the light comes on.i have noticed that there is a recall for 2007 dodge calibers with this problem, but for some reason my vin/vehicle is not included in the recall as well as many many others with the same problem. I am thinking they do not know who to notify because if they did you would have several complaint at this time.my 2007 dodge caliber has caused me problems and unsafe moments for sometime now.the vehicle will sometimes start with the electronic throttle control light on right off the bat other times you could be cruising over a bridge and it will come on and decide to go 2 mph if even that.i had an incident with my grandbaby where we were turning left across a lane of traffic and the car decided to go 1-2 mph it was a good thing that the on coming traffic was out there far enough for us to get across. I have not and will not drive the car since.i still have a car payment and insurance payment but cannot use the vehicle.i have been keeping up with the people on line and there is quiet a few that has had several scary situation like myself.there has been ones who have taken the vehicle in and the repair shop said there was nothing wrong.......thenback out on the road they go and the problem happens again.one of these times someone will be crossing a very busy highway and could get in a bad wreck and die? we need your help????
My 2007 caliber has leaking problems, it has been in the shop twice and still not fixed, also i just brought it in for a grinding noise, at 16,000 miles.the dealer 1st told me nothing is wrong come and get it, i did not get it i told them to keep it and drive it 1st thing in the morn.they did and heard the loud vibrating noise.they called me and told me it needed swaybar bushings and a new transmission.this caliber is junk.with each supposed repair for leaking they had my car for 2 weeks total.also this time with the transmission it has be 3 days. I have to pay for a rental car each time.the power door locks make a weird loud noise at times when unlocking the doors.i do not feel safe with my 4 kids in the car with me.i need a safe vehicle.
4 sets of headlight have blown on the car in the last 6 months. Then my gears aren't shifting correctly because it's making a clicking noise which has been heard by several people. Also the steering wheel clicks when you turn it on occasions. On a 2007 dodge caliber sxt2.0.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the transmission was self-contained which made it impossible to maintain.while driving approximately 10 mph, she attempted to accelerate and the vehicle would not move forward. A year prior to the failure, she heard a noise in the transmission.when she called the dealer, she was told that the vehicle was fine. The vehicle was towed to a local dealer where it was at the time of the complaint. The dealer stated that the transmission needed to be replaced; however, the transmission was on backorder. The contact called the manufacturer and was offered no assistance. The vin was unavailable. The current mileage was approximately 89,000. The failure mileage was approximately 50,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximate 30 mph the vehicle stalled and the transmission light illuminated. She drove onto the emergency lane for 20 minutes and the vehicle began to function normally. The dealer replaced the computer chip. The failure happened a week later and was taken back to dealer who stated that they did not know how to fix the failure. She then took the vehicle to another dealer who replaced the transmission. Two weeks later the vehicle stalled again. The contact stated the dealership advised her that they would call her when special technicians came from chrysler. The dealer never notified her. The failure mileage was 42,000 and the current mileage was 43,000.
Bought 2007 dodge caliber sxt with 9,000 miles on it and now has 13,000.love the car but they can keep their cvt2 transmission.when accelerating the car starts to go then suddenly loses power to pull itself.rpm's hit 5000+ yet not picking up speed.this has happened 4 times and have taken it to dealer where purchased and service department wasn't able to duplicate.the 4th time was on 8-17-2007 when i was making a left turn onto a 4 lane + center lane highway from a stop.the car started to go then suddenly in the middle of the first lane it lost power and would not pick up speed.rpm's hit 5500+ and still not picking up speed.45 mph traffic had to brake as i was trying to get out of their way.mashed gas pedal to the floor and still nothing but the revving of the engine and my family screaming for me to go go go!!!i just bought the car in may 2007!!!!dealer wants to trade me out of it at my cost and loss of money and at a higher interest rate!!!!!!the car in now parked in my garage and will not be driven anytime soon.i am paying for a "coffin" on wheels as i am sure that is what it will turn into before dodge finds and corrects the problem.
I purchased a 2007 dodge caliber in june 2006. I noticed this car's road noise increased over time, the brakes are horrible, the windows squeal putting them up or down, and the door hinges sound as if they have been rotting in a junk yard somewhere for years, and let's not forgetthe weird smell coming through the vents when the heat or ac is on. My complaint, however, is about the transmission. On my way to work, while i came to a brief stop and proceeded to turn onto another road when my car lurched and slowed right back down. I immediately pulled off the road. My check engine light was on. I called the service department from where i purchased my car and after speaking to them decided to drive my car there. As i pulled forward another light popped on. This time it was the transmission over temperature light. (i was barely going 10mph and it was 70 degrees out). From there the car was very sluggish taking forever to get up to speed and i went through this process every time i had to come to a stop.i brought it to the dealer who would not give me or cover a rental. I got my car back 3 days later after they replaced the transmission control module. (by the way there is no recall, but chrysler has a bulletin out on this issue).sunday june 8, 2008, i was driving for 2 minutes when it happened again. My car lurched, the engine and transmission lights came on and this time the park, reverse, neutral, and drive indicators all lit up as if i was in every gear at once. My appointment is tomorrow. I argued to get a rental, on them this time and will update as soon as i have any news. I will tell you one thing, after reading everyone else.
I recently had a transmission control module replaced in my 2007 dodge caliber (32,000 miles). Less than a week after getting my car back, i again had transmission problems.this time around they had my car for 4 days and replaced the gent power module, $800 computer part (under warranty).
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact stated that there was a knocking noise coming from the hood of the vehicle.the vehicle was taken to the dealer who diagnosed that the transfer unit was defective and would need to be replaced.the vehicle was repaired but recurred shortly thereafter.the dealer then diagnosed that the transmission needed to be replaced.the repair of the transmission did not remedy the failure.the manufacturer was notified but denied any assistance with repairs. The failure mileage was 82,500 and the current mileage was 83,000.
2007 dodge caliber.overheating of transmission after about 3000 miles.occurs after driving 20 miles on highway.computer check at dealer showed no fault.no action taken by dodge. Problem persists, and now we not only get the orange warning light but also the red oneafraid transmission will fail.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 70 mph, the vehicle went into limp mode without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the transmission control module lost communication with the engine control module and powertrain control module. Also, the output shaft speed sensor was disconnected. Fletcher chrysler dodge jeep ram (3099 n morton st., franklin, in, (317) 738-4170) was made aware of the failure, but the vehicle was not repaired. The contact stated that the failure was intermittent. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 178,772.
I just recently purchased a 2007 dodge caliber.it has been less than 30 days since i have had the car.the car was a nice vehicle, until one day coming home from heidelberg, germany.i was on autobahn 656 between heidelberg and mannheim.i was in the left lane driving about 70 k/hr.i went to turn on my headlights and as i did the entire dashboard panel went blank.all meters (odometer, tacometer, and speedometer) dropped to zero, but they quickly came back on.when they returned to normal, the transmission had shifted into neutral, causing me to nearly get rear-ended by a car traveling behind me. I was unable to shift back into drive. I changed lanes and got to the shoulder and shut off the car.when i shut it off and let it sit for about 5 minutes, i restarted the car and was able to put it back into drive.but when i had started the car, the malfunction light had turned on and would not extinguish.i was able to drive the car back to my apartment and let it be parked.when i returned to the house, i tried to restart it and the malfunction light had went out.my wife then drove the car back to the car loton tuesday morning.i had talked to customer service, a one [email protected], i explained to him that i felt the car is an unsafe car.yes, i understand that you deserve the chance to fix the problem.but who is to say that the problem will be fixed correctly and that it won't happen again.what if my wife and myself don't find out that it wasn't perfectly fixed until it's too late. If i'm driving and i have an accident, do you want to be the one to explain to my family why you would not take my car on a return because it's unsafe? i have always purchased dodge vehicles.i don't like driving anything but a dodge.i don't blame anyone at miliatary car sales or even dodge.but i do not want this unsafe vehicle.our lives hang in your handsmake us keep an unsafe car or let us return it today 13 oct 2007 at 1743.
While driving on suburban roads car would lose all power and almost stall, a red lighting bolt would appear on instrument panel. Vehicle taken to dealership throttle body replaced and pcm flashed.second incident occurred about one year later, this time on the freeway at approx 65mph loss of all power almost stall. Car taken to dealer, throttle body was not replaced however pcm was again flashed. Third occurrence happened 09/18/11 issue was present in both city driving and freeway driving again taken to dealership and throttle body needs to be replaced and pcm flashed. This failure is highly dangerous due to the fact that is happens without warning on both city and highway driving.
I was driving my 2007 dodge caliber when stalled while making a left hand turn this happened several times also the accelerator pedal does not respond well when cold. I had the emissions recall performed and it has stalled only once since having that done. Also my fuel mileage has dropped from 29-30 mpg to 25-26.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 25-30 mph, the contact stated that the accelerator pedal became stuck when it was depressed and the vehicle accelerated up to 80 mph. When the contact applied the brakes, the vehicle did not slow down. The steering wheel would not move and the gear shift lever would not shift into park. When she applied the emergency brake, the vehiclespun over a sidewalk into a parking lot. The identical failure occurred when she attempted to restart the vehicle; therefore,she towed the vehicle to an authorized dealer. Two months prior to the failure, the keys became stuck in the ignition for thirty minutes. The dealer had not informed the contact what caused the failure to occur. The contact stated that she experienced headaches and neck pain after the failure occurred. The current and failure mileages were approximately 60,000.
Dt*: the contact stated the brakes failed to respond as the front right wheel began to shake and pulled to the right resulting in an impact to the curb of the bridge. This occurred while driving at an unknown speed, in a light rain. The police arrived at the scene and filed an accident report. The vehicle was towed to impound. The insurance company was notified, however a service mechanic did not inspect the vehicle. The manufacturer was not notified.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.during initial takeoff, the vehicle would lose power and stall.on other occasions, while driving 5 mph, the vehicle would completely shut off or hesitate for a long period of time.the failure was intermittent and could not be duplicated.the vehicle could almost be restarted immediately after the failures.the contact took the vehicle to the dealer over ten times, but they could never duplicate the issue.the manufacturer offered no assistance.the current mileage was approximately 53,000 and failure mileage was approximately 20. Updated 01/07/09.*ljthe consumer stated the vehicle would stall when the clutch was pushed in, or just running in neutral. The rpm's would fluctuate when idling.updated 01/08/09.
Dodge caliber manual transmission with 1.8 l engine. I have had the vehicle stall while driving in slow moving traffic on secondary streets (3x now). The first 2 were within a couple weeks of getting the vehicle new and i thought they were driver related as i was getting used to the clutch. Both were situations where i wasn't coming to a full stop- just rolling slowly with the clutch in and then braking a little, letting out the clutch to continue the roll and repeating.but the 3rd was recently where i was making a left turn and slowly letting out the clutch, i was coasting to let a car go by (not coming to a full stop) before making the turn, and as i released the clutch gently to provide the power to turn onto the side street it just stalled and i was left cranking on the steering wheel to avoid hitting the car parked on the corner. I quickly pushed in the clutch and restarted the vehicle, regaining steering and braking power.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the rear driver's side and rear center seat belts became detached from the rear support of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to brenner chrysler jeep (located at 6039 carlisle pike, mechanicsburg, pa 17050, (717) 766-7686) where it was diagnosed that the seat belts needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 125,000. The vin was not available.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the driver side seat belt independently unfastened and the seat belt warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 107,731.
Seat belts come unbuckled after they click in. This happens with driver, passenger, and back seat seat belts. I have reported to dealership several times, and they tell me they has not been a recall on this.i have kids and my safety to worried about, and i dont know how else to address this before it becomes too late, and it actually happens during an accident.
Seat belt was buckled but became unlatched shortly thereafter.
Well, i have a few complaints with my vehicle.i have had to replace the same control arm on the front drivers side twice(once at 55,000 and again at 80,000) and have only had the vehicle since 2009.i have complained to the dealership many times about my driver's seat belt coming undone while both hands are on the wheel driving.the service department at parkway told me i wasn't hooking it in correctly but being 26 years of age and always using a seat belt i wonder if i have been doing it wrong all along and if i was, wouldn't this problem happen every time i hooked the belt instead of at random?you would think they would want to fix the problem before they get sued from someone dying from it unhooking while in an accident.my latest problem is with the passenger side window, i was headed to a friends house with the windows half up and when i went to put the windows all the way up, it wouldn't go, it went down, and the passenger side button did not work either, needless to say, i had to park in the parking garage and tape my window when i got home to leave it parked in the street because i only have street parking.thank you dodge for making me with i would have stuck with gm.
I have a 2007 caliber with close to 127k. Ive been experiencing the passenger seat belt not staying latched. You can click it in and pull on it... Then randomly it will unlatch itself. How is there not a re call on this issue?
The passenger seat belt will have clicked and you assume all is well. The seat belt buckle will slip loose and the seat belt will wind back up. The passenger seat belt is therefore unreliable and dangerous. This could happen at any time, in motion ect.
The contact owned a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at approximately 25 mph, the contact depressed the brake pedal. A bottle was underneath the brake pedal, which caused the contact to crash into the rear of a truck. The air bags failed to deploy and the seat belt failed to retract. The contact sustained unknown injuries that required medical attention. A police report was filed. The vehicle was destroyed. The approximate failure mileage was 114,000. The vin was unavailable.
When driving on us.10 in mi at 9 pm head lights went out all other lights work no high or low beams. The bulbs are both good. Also the right turn signal blinks very fast as if there was a burned out bulb but there is not one. This is a 2007 dodge caliber. Doessomeone have to getkilled before a recall is forced on chrysler?
Driver side seatbelt releases itself while i'm driving, front driver headlight does not turn on even though bulb has been changed several times to rule out damaged bulb, rear tag light won't turn on when vehicle is in motion, rearview mirror light will not turn on.
My passenger side air bag randomly disarms and my driver's side seatbelt comes undone often.sometime takes 2-3 times of trying to fasten seat belt to get it to secure.cruise control has also gone out.love my car, but not happy with all the problems popping up.it is only 4 years old.
Dt*: the contact stated the rear passenger seatbelt's latch tightened and would not allow the occupant to be extracted from the seat.this caused minor bruising to a child.the vehicle had the seatbelt replaced on two occurrences by a dealer who determined that the seatbelt was defective and covered under warranty.the vehicle was brought back for a third replacement.the seatbelt could not be used and was removed.the vehicle was not included in any recall due to the vin.
Front driver and passenger seat belts release without pushing release button or when coming to a fast stop.
The drivers seat belt unlatches by itself when driving.after it unlatches this way it sometimes takes a few attempts to get it to lock when latching.this happens within the first 1 or 2 miles of driving.speed is not a factor.this started as an occasional occurrence, but now it happens almost daily.i am the original owner of this vehicle.
Seat belt comes unlatched, quite often.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While using the heated seat option, the driver side seat stoppedworking. The contact stated that when the vehicle had been inspected by the dealer, there were burn holes found in the back of the drivers seat. The contact spoke with the manufacturer and was advised that a case would be opened. The failure mileage was 42,000. The current mileage was 46,000. The vin was not available.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds with the driver side heated seat activated, there was a burning sensation to the rear area. The contact discovered that the heated seat burned and was smoldering and burned the contact's jacket. There were no injuries. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 117,344.
I was sitting at a stop sign when my abs and engine light started flashing and this annoying dinging started i made a left turn and my tires would be out of control making me think i was having a steering problem ,just parking would be a problem and this annoying sound would stay on until u park the car this was done on a highway i was told by a dodge dealership that it was my abs module and that it needed to be replaced so i check for a recall and find out there are recalls for the same make model and year on a lot of other cars but not my vin#.
I had an accident on friday, january 18, 2015. The car in front of me put on brakes, and i was a distance away from the car in front of me when i put on brakes as well. However, when i attempted to brake, it would not brake normally as a car should. Also, there was no anti-lock brake that kicked in. In addition, the airbags did not deploy in this vehicle. My car is totaled. Thankfully, i was able to walk away. There is something wrong with the brakes on this vehicle. I always felt like that. However, the experience that i had with this accident was confirmation for me.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at very low speeds and depressing the brake pedal, the abs would erroneously activate causing the braking distance to be extended. The contact also indicated that the check engine sensor light illuminated. The dealer was unable to diagnose the cause of the failures. In addition, the contact experienced various electrical failures. The driver side window would open, but would not roll up to close allowing rain to enter into the vehicle. Also, the front passenger side headlight would not operate. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired for the electrical failures. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 156,000.updated 12/30/14the consumer was involved in accident and the vehicle was totaled. Updated 01/27/15
This car has had the driver airbag warning light on in the dash for more than 20,000 miles.i do not know if they are "takata air bags or not. Also, the driver rear taillight has filled with water. I have been the sole owner of this car. Now thedash lights are flickering off & on when lights are turned on. The caliber now has 96,000 miles on it . Thank you in advance for any answers.
Subframe rusted out ,brakes locking up
Brakes on this vehicle are no good, very hard to stop.ball joints no goodsteering on this vehicle is not safe eitheri have noticed all the recalls and complaints.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 45 mph, the contact noticed that the anti skid and abs warning lights illuminated without warning. All of the instrument panel lights also illuminated. The contact drove the vehicle to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the front and rear ends of the vehicle needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact spoke with the manufacturer who approved the repairs performed by another dealer. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 140,000. Updated 02/12/16*lj
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the brake pedal became abnormally stiff, causing extreme difficulty when attempting to brake.the contact took the vehicle to the dealer and was told there was a recall under nhtsa campaign id number: 06v493000 (service brakes, hydraulic: antilock: control unit/module) for the antilock braking system. The contact spoke with the manufacturer and was told that the vehicle was not included in the recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and the current mileages were 60,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 10 mph, the brake pedal was depressed and the vehicle began to vibrate. The abs warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure recurred on numerous occasions. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The contact was aware of nhtsa campaign numbers: 06v493000 (service brakes, hydraulic), 10v234000 (vehicle speed control), and 07v196000 (wheels); however, the vin was not included. The failure mileage was 140,000.
The vehicle has had the ignition switch slip from "on" to "accessory" twice in the last few years.the first time was on i-95 just north of richmond, va.i was driving, shifted my knee (with a long keychain), and the switch slipped.i was unable to control the car at that point.i hit the emergency lights button and tried to re-start the car.i was able to re-start the car and continue driving without accident or injury.the second time was on edwards mill road in raleigh, nc.at that point, i was not driving with the longer keychain, but a shorter one with only four keys, and the switch slipped again.because it had happened before, i knew what i needed to do was to re-start the car, and i was able to do so successfully without accident or injury.because at the time, i didn't think much of it, and because i had no concept that it could have been a bigger issue, and because there was no accident, i did not stop to write down or remember the dates/times of these incidents.i know that the first incident was at night; the second incident was during the day.i remember where i was because i have a photographic memory; however, because i didn't stop to look at the date or time then or later, i don't recall exact dates and times.my best guess, based on my travel schedule through richmond, va, is that it took place within the last three years, and then the second incident sometime after that.i thought nothing of these incidents even when the gm recalls started happening, because it wasn't a gm vehicle.however, the other day, i read that chrysler vehicles were being recalled for this issue, and something triggered my memory with the switch slips.i wanted to provide this information and notice so that a decision could be made about investigating other chrysler models, as well as to provide notice to the company of an issue.
Vehicle was involved in frontal collision with run off tire from a trailer being pulled by a pickup truck. Frontal driver side received damage to electrical wiring harness which shut down onboard computer system. Upon impact the vehicle seized operation and shut down air bag deployment. Steering control was lost due to half shaft joint was sheered apart.
When driving on highway car looses power brake light comes on and off dealer states it's nothing get oil change from dealer stated nothing is wrong.
My car drive side light is not workingand the brakes keep having problems.
The car will lose all power when driving, almost at a complete stop. The first 2 times it happened were at night (the second during a complete downpour) and since i lose all power, the hazard lights won't even work so i have to get out of the car to alert other drivers so that they won't hit me!! so dangerous!!the first "fix" was to do a full computer system re-flash ($300). The second "fix" was to replace the transmission control module ($600). The third time this happened was 3 days after the second "fix" as i'd driven not even 100 feet from a parking spot, i turned the volume up on my radio and the car died! the 3rd "fix" will be upwards of $1500!!! dodge knows about this problem. In fact, it is the faulty placement of the tipm that has caused this!! it was placed in a spot where it constantly receives damage from water and dirt on the road, which causes corrosion and then bam! loss of power!!!! dodge has not created any recalls for this which is unacceptable! this problem, if it happens on any highways or in major intersections, could kill someone!!! i've done a ton of research and this is happening to too many people with the same exact model year car!!! i've contacted dodge corporation to request a recall and/or financial assistance in this matter and they won"t do anything! i've owned this car for less than 3 months and i've already had it in the shop 3 times for this problem. When will dodge realize that they have to do something about this? when someone dies????? i'm going to reach out to as many people as i can who have had/are having the same problem so we can get a lawyer involved!!! someone needs to do something about this problem and that someone is dodge!!!!!!!
My wife was driving to work on the garden state parkway(nj) about 9:15 a.m. On jan 12, 2007, the car began to pull to the right and she tapped the brake, and attempted to correct the problem . At this point the car began swerving and she lost control of the vehicle. The car rolled over twice and came to a stop upside down. She was able to crawl out of the vehicle. I recently recieved a vehicle report from the insurance co. That stated the car is being recalled (nhtsa id: 06v493000)and said vehicle is subject to a failure of the abs computer software that may cause the rear brakes to lock up during certain braking conditions and cause a crash without warning!!!!! while my wife was extremely lucky not to have been killed as a result of this malfunction, she is quite distraught over the incident and would like to know what steps to take at this juncture. Her vehicle is a total loss, and she is very nervous about driving. This was her first new car and the dealer touted the safety of the vehicle, which greatly influenced her purchase. Had we been made aware of the potential danger inherent of this vehicle, i am sure we would have made another choice.
The totally integrated power module on left side of the engine compartment is not working. So ,the brake lights & horn do not work . However, the individual component was tested the brake lights & horn work individually. I don't know how long i have been driving like this but one of my co workers told me my brake lights were out because he almost hit me in the rear. This part is not covered under warranty because it is not part of the engine.it will cost apprx. $820 for repair. Which i cannot afford at this time. I am reporting this because it is a safety issuedriving without brake lights or a horn. Someone can get seriously hurt or possibly die from driving like this.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, a howling noise would be heard from the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer where the contact was informed that the vehicle needed new brakes, tie rods and a transmission. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 75,500.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving approximately 30 mph she applied pressure to the brake pedal and heard a squeaking noise.the failure recurred intermittently so the vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer where the tie rod was replaced.approximately 6 months later the failure began to recur and the vehicle was taken to an independent repair shop where the brakes were repaired.the failure continued to recur.approximately 1 year later the vehicle was taken back to an independent repair shop where the brakes, tires, tie rod and ball joints were repaired.the failure continues.the failure mileage was 25,000 and the current mileage was 58,000.the vin was unavailable.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving 30 mph, the brake pedal went down to the floorboard when it was depressed.the contact stated that the electrical system was not working properly, however, she was unable to provide any details.the dealer has not inspected the vehicle.the current mileage is 3,029 and failure mileage was 64.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. When the brakes were applied, the brake pedal extended to the floorboard and became stuck. When the pedal failed to release it caused the vehicle to crash into a another vehicle. There were no injuries; however, a police report was filed. The contact called an authorized dealer and stated that there were no recalls for his vin. When the vehicle was taken to the dealer, they could not duplicate the failure. The failure occurred twice. The failure mileage was approximately 76,000. The current mileage was approximately 80,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was driving approximately 20 mph when she applied the brakes and the vehicle would not stop. The vehicle proceeded to crash into the rear of a preceding vehicle. There were no injuries. The contact's insurance company was investigating the failure but had not reached a diagnosis. The vehicle was not repaired.the failure mileage was 57,000 and the current mileage was 58,016.
Had just replaced the brakes on the vehicle after it had been down for the 4th time in 3 years when i was driving down the highway and the tires started screeching when i applied the brakes. Began to accelerate to pull into a public parking lot when pieces of the front right tire fell off and i had to coast into the parking lot with no brakes. Is my only means of transportation and has been down for almost a year now. This vehicle has been down a total of 5 times out of the 4 years i've owned it and it has truly been an inconvenience.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the contact wasdriving approximately 55 mph the oil warning light indicatorilluminated on the instrument panel, followed by a sudden enginestall. The engine restarted after waiting a period of ten minutes.the failure occurred intermittently. Also, on a separate occasion the brakes failed to respond with excessive force engaged and then the engine stalled. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer. The technician was unable to locate a problem. The vehicle had been taken to authorized on several separate occasions for the identical failures in which both tie rods and an unknown sensor were replaced. The manufacturer was notified who advised the contact to take the vehicle back to an authorized dealer for diagnosis and repair. The failure mileage was 1,000.
Dt*: the contact stated the brakes failed to respond as the front right wheel began to shake and pulled to the right resulting in an impact to the curb of the bridge. This occurred while driving at an unknown speed, in a light rain. The police arrived at the scene and filed an accident report. The vehicle was towed to impound. The insurance company was notified, however a service mechanic did not inspect the vehicle. The manufacturer was not notified.
2007 dodge caliber.consumer requests reimbursement for defective door recall.the consumer stated on august 15, 2007, she took her vehicle to the dealer to have the regular maintenance performed and at that time, the dealer had the opportunity to check for recalls, but they didn't. On august 26, 2007, the consumer was involved in an accident, which resulted in the left rear passenger door being damaged, when the vehicle failed to stop after applying the brake. The consumer stated when she attempted to apply the brake, it kicked back and delayed her stopping. Also, the vehicle was displaying a pull and the tires were wearing quickly.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for routine maintenance when the technician detected that the front brake rotors exhibited severe rust and corrosion. The shims, front brakes and rotors were replaced. In addition, the inner tie rods loosened from the steering rack and the front control arm bushing separated. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the defect. The failure mileage was 23,167. Updated 06/05/12*lj the consumer stated that chrysler has since repaired the vehicle. Updated 06/06/12
My 2007 dodge caliber has experience a pulling in the front end that started after 3,000 miles. The car has been at the shop 3 times in a time period expanding approx. 6-12 weeks. The dealer working on the car could not achieve success after three attempts. The car is now at another dealer who has had the car over 48 hrs with no response to the front end issue. The car now at 7400 miles as a front brake "jatter" and is at the dealer for this as well. Also, the car's rear washer fluid nozzle leaks at highway speed and the stereo's sound will distort suddenly without warning. I am beyond upset with how much problems i have had on a 19,000.00$brand new automobile. I do not want to believe that all chrysler vehicles have this kind of issues. I also wanted to believe that my problem was minor and would be just fine once it was fixed. However, the problems just keep coming. I purchased a new car in good faith that i receiveddependable transportation. I don't think i have gotten the fair end of the deal. I would be a happy customer if daimler chrysler refunded my money on this car. In trade i will purchase anew dodge 1500 pickup. I feel like if daimler chrysler will take care of me, i will be a happy customer who will continue to purchase their products. I don't want to take my business elsewhere but i will do what is needed.
I was driving on a dirt road with slight washboard condition at a little above 30 mph downhill. When i stepped on the brake slightly, the car immediately lost control and went off shoulder. After the incident, the abs light stayed on for a while but later it went off. *tw
My sisters 2007 dodge caliber only has only 32236 miles on it and the ball joints need replaced already, it cost 800 dollars to replace them, i looked on line and everybody that has a 2007 caliber is having the same problem there should be a recall on the ball joints, just look on line and u will see how many people are having trouble with the ball joints, how many complaints does it take to have a recall done, thank you for your time, please just e mail me back thank you.
We've had this '07 dodge caliber since 9 of '07 and have had several problems to occur at about 2 months after purchase. The car stalls at low speed, we've had brake problems which when we first took it in to our dealer was told nothing was wrong with the brakes.upon several visits about noise coming from the front tires and while pressing the brakes they would putter after about 40mph, was told the wheel bearings needed to be replaced.since then we would still experience the noise till it got so bad, chrysler finally said - your rotors need changing.since we were over 20,000 miles we weren't covered by warranty.was told this was normal wear and tear. I could understand if these problems had just started, but they didn't.chrysler has said they cannot assist me with a refund nor would the senior staff agent give me his bosses name to complain further.i am very dissatisfied with chrysler.my mom is about 80 years old and purchased this car believing that the company was reliable and would stand behind any problems.we would like our money back or trade this vehicle in for a comparable amount.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving 60 mph, the vehicle began to pull to the left when the contact depressed the brake pedal.she attempted to correct the failure, but lost control of the vehicle and it began to swerve.the vehicle rolled over six times.three passengers sustained cuts and bruises and the driver was airlifted to the hospital due to back injuries.the insurance company stated that the vehicle was under recall # 06v493000 (service brakes, hydraulic:antilock:control unit/module).a police report was filed.the powertrain was unknown.the current and failure mileages were 8,000.updated 09/26/07.
My daughter complained to her step father that she was losing control of the vehicle.he told her to drive carefully and bring it to his house so he could check it out.before she was able to do this she was involved in a crash.she said she was driving in a light rain and driving slowly when she lost control.she refrained from hitting the brakes and tried to steer out of it.when she saw an oncoming car headed for her she hit the brakes.the car slid to the side of the road and rolled.she was not hurt but the car was totaled.the dealer says there are no recalls but nhtsa says there is.06v493000i understand that the cause of the loss of control is that the anti-lock brakes need to be reprogrammed.i made my complaint to chrysler they had the vehicle taken to a dealer and checked out.then they sent me a letter signed by a committee telling me that it had been checked out and they found no fault in the brakes.upon hearing this i went to the dealer and was told that there was no recall when i showed him the recall as listed by nhtsa he said that since i down loaded it from the internet it may not be authentic.just as i suspected since they had no knowledge of a recall they did not check to see if the program that was not right for the anti-lock brakes was the program that this vehicle had for the anti lock brakes.i think if chrysler continues to deny responsibility it may be time for a class action suit.this accident should not be on my daughter's driving record.chrysler should make it right.the sad thing is i have been employed at chrysler for 31 years.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the abs and brake lights suddenly illuminated and the speedometer stopped functioning. The failure occurred at all times whether vehicle was in motion or parked. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealership where the contact was informed that the vehicle was not included in recall 06v493000 (service brakes, hydraulic: antilock: control unit/module) and she would be responsible for all repair expenses. The current and failure mileages were approximately 44,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the brakes failed to engage when attempting to stop. The contact avoided a crash by driving the vehicle into a curb. The vehicle was not taken to have the failure diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 42,500 and the current mileage was 44,000.updated 01/12/12*ljthe consumer stated a recall was issued. However, her vin was not included/ 01/12/12
At 12,000 miles i started to have a severe vibration when braking. I contacted the auto dealer immediately and was told that the brakes needed a break in period and not to worry, so i didn't bring it in. At 18,000 miles i had it looked at and the auto dealer said it was cupped tires without even looking at it. I returned to the dealer again who then advised me that it was cupped tires at 24,000 miles.during a warranty repair i asked that they look and again they mentioned cupped tires. I had the tires replaced at 36,000 miles and took it back to the dealer who then informed me that the cause was bad rotors and the service manager refused to correct the problem without charge. Understand this was the fourth time i contacted the dealer about this same issue. I have now had the new tires installed for about 800 miles and this problem is starting to ruin these as well according to the tire technician.it is my contention that there is something seriously wrong with the car, and it is causing the tires to wear badly and unevenly but the dealer refuses to acknowledge it.
At 12,000 miles i started to have a severe vibration when braking. I contacted the auto dealer immediately and was told that the brakes needed a break in period and not to worry, so i didn't bring it in. At 18,000 miles i had it looked at and the auto dealer said it was cupped tires without even looking at it. I returned to the dealer again who then advised me that it was cupped tires at 24,000 miles.during a warranty repair i asked that they look and again they mentioned cupped tires. I had the tires replaced at 36,000 miles and took it back to the dealer who then informed me that the cause was bad rotors and the service manager refused to correct the problem without charge. Understand this was the fourth time i contacted the dealer about this same issue. I have now had the new tires installed for about 800 miles and this problem is starting to ruin these as well according to the tire technician.it is my contention that there is something seriously wrong with the car, and it is causing the tires to wear badly and unevenly but the dealer refuses to acknowledge it.
At 12,000 miles i started to have a severe vibration when braking. I contacted the auto dealer immediately and was told that the brakes needed a break in period and not to worry, so i didn't bring it in. At 18,000 miles i had it looked at and the auto dealer said it was cupped tires without even looking at it. I returned to the dealer again who then advised me that it was cupped tires at 24,000 miles.during a warranty repair i asked that they look and again they mentioned cupped tires. I had the tires replaced at 36,000 miles and took it back to the dealer who then informed me that the cause was bad rotors and the service manager refused to correct the problem without charge. Understand this was the fourth time i contacted the dealer about this same issue. I have now had the new tires installed for about 800 miles and this problem is starting to ruin these as well according to the tire technician.it is my contention that there is something seriously wrong with the car, and it is causing the tires to wear badly and unevenly but the dealer refuses to acknowledge it.
At 12,000 miles i started to have a severe vibration when braking. I contacted the auto dealer immediately and was charged $192.00 for service on the warped rotors. Dealer kept asking do you live on a hill. The answer is no, but never the less 12k miles and the brake rotors are warped? i asked about the warranty, "this is normal ware and tear not covered by your warranty." i complained on paper 4 months later still no word from dealer- go figure. They fixed my warped rotors by shimming them down, so now at 19k miles i'm starting to have the same problem. You would of thought that at 12k miles the dealer would of said i should replace these not shim down. Great car minus the cheap, cheap parts to put it together. Never by another dodge again!!!
Have a 2007 dodge caliber with 90k miles. My wife recently went to get it inspected and come to find out the front and rear crossmembers and subframe components were terribly corroded. Needless to say it was not passed. It's started shaking while driving, alignment is off according to tire wear. I've read tons of complaints and see they issues not a recall but a 10 year extended warranty on this issue. Curious as to when this was issued and if my car falls into that
Front and rear cross members as per x58 and revision x59 rustednotice sent july 14th 2014 to have inspected for rust dealership inspected and found no rust reinspected august 23 2018 rust found dealership stated out of extended warranty x58 no goodwill assistance available cause of extended warranty expiration.
Lower ball joints and control arms are defective on 2007 dodge calibers.
At 132000 miles, i am replacing both control arms for the fourth time on my 2007 dodge caliber sxt 2.0l, no to mention the numerous cv boots and ball joints. With the numerous complaints i have seen online, it is surprising that no recall efforts (at least seemingly) have been made for such a dangerous and costly defect. I implore your company, please investigate the concerns and having chrysler-dodge fix their errors!!! even my mechanic informed me that the length of the arm is just short enough to create continual issues. This isn't right. As a result of so many repairs on this vehicle, i will never own a chrysler-dodge product again. Thank you for your time and consideration.
The vehicle has had the ignition switch slip from "on" to "accessory" twice in the last few years.the first time was on i-95 just north of richmond, va.i was driving, shifted my knee (with a long keychain), and the switch slipped.i was unable to control the car at that point.i hit the emergency lights button and tried to re-start the car.i was able to re-start the car and continue driving without accident or injury.the second time was on edwards mill road in raleigh, nc.at that point, i was not driving with the longer keychain, but a shorter one with only four keys, and the switch slipped again.because it had happened before, i knew what i needed to do was to re-start the car, and i was able to do so successfully without accident or injury.because at the time, i didn't think much of it, and because i had no concept that it could have been a bigger issue, and because there was no accident, i did not stop to write down or remember the dates/times of these incidents.i know that the first incident was at night; the second incident was during the day.i remember where i was because i have a photographic memory; however, because i didn't stop to look at the date or time then or later, i don't recall exact dates and times.my best guess, based on my travel schedule through richmond, va, is that it took place within the last three years, and then the second incident sometime after that.i thought nothing of these incidents even when the gm recalls started happening, because it wasn't a gm vehicle.however, the other day, i read that chrysler vehicles were being recalled for this issue, and something triggered my memory with the switch slips.i wanted to provide this information and notice so that a decision could be made about investigating other chrysler models, as well as to provide notice to the company of an issue.
I had an oil change done on my 2007 dodge caliber today.the safety inspection sheet said the tie rod is "loose" on both sides, and the left ball joint is "loose".i know if either of these breaks while i'm driving down the road it would cause a very serious accident.there are less than 27,000 miles on this car, and i found that many others have had this same problem with their calibers.i am strapped for cash, but will have to get it repaired asap, as i don't feel safe driving it like this, especially when my four year old granddaughter is with me.i think a recall is in order.
Have had sporadic electrical issues for the last few years, chalked it up to normal wear & tear. After looking at other testimonies online, beginning to realize the issues i've had are similar to those of other caliber owners. Just replaced the alternator in june 2014 and now car is shutting off while driving down the road. Check engine light has been on for 3 weeks and will randomly not be on for a series of drives only to come back on again. Dashboard lights do not come on all the time, i'd say more often than not night driving is done with no dashboard lights. I change headlights & taillights frequently. About to head to autozone now to have it hooked up to diagnostic machine to see if any codes come up for check engine light. Chrysler needs to do a recall asap or there will be several peoples lives at risk, including my entire family seeing as how this is our main vehicle.
March 12, 2014 my mileage was 56700 miles i had to have my lower ball joints replaced because they had both failed. The last issue i had with steering & suspension was in march 2012. My mileage at the time of the diagnosis by the dodge dealership was 34,898 and i needed to have the passenger side tie rod replaced. There have been numerous reports to the nhtsa/ federal government regarding both the tie rods and ball joints of the 2007 dodge caliber. I have done research and have found that the tie rods and ball joints are known to dodge to be common failing parts on the 2007 dodge caliber. When i replaced the tie rod on 2012 i did notify dodge directly, my vehicle warranty had expired at that time and dodge closed my case and i was brushed off. Dodge stopped replying to my emails and would not return my voicemails. I have found no fatalities in my research so far, but it is only a matter of time with this vehicle design. How many reports are required before an investigation is launched.thank you for your time and attention in this matter.
At less than 10 miles per hour the rear suspension failed while turning on to a public highway. The drivers side wheel on the back is ready to fall off it is laying against the coil spring. The car is no longer drivable. This is all within close proximity to the fuel tank also and in my opinion could be a puncture risk also. The car has 106779 miles on it ,one owner with no collision repairs ever performed and no undercarriage damage ever.chrysler is performing repairs on select vehicles with the same problem but refuse to repair this one. Had this failure occurred at highway speed it is possible the results could have been catastrophic. This vehicle is less than 9 years old and has seen very little winter weather and has never been in a salt air environment. I see no difference in this problem and the one associated with toyotas truck frames of several years ago. Please help before someone dies from this problem.
My partner and i were at firestone to have a oil change for our car done. One of the repair guys came out to tell us our tie rods on our car were lose and would need to be replaced soon. Our car has only a little over 61,000 miles on it. Tie rods on a car are usually replaced at 120,000 to 170,000 miles. We bought this car used at a toyota dealership with only one previous owner. The carfax were provided and the previous owner babied the car. There were no previous car wrecks and we have had no car wrecks either. We are at a disbelief, as this serious of an issue on a car should not have to be replaced until it is expected. We take very good care of our car. We change the oil before it is due and regularly schedule check ups to make sure there are no major issues. Now we are taking our car in this weekend to get the tie rods done and to see if also control arms and ball joints need to be replaced. For tie rods to go out while driving is a serious issue. We could lose control of the car and hurt ourselves or someone else. This is a serious safety issue and dodge has a responsibility to replace malfunctioning parts of the cars this is happening to. A tie rod should not go out on a car at 61,000 miles when the car is taken care of. I do not understand why a recall has not been in place and why dodge has not come forward to be accountable for the issues. The tie rods will be costing us $400 dollars alone to replace and if ball joints and control arms need to be replaced well over $1,000 dollars for parts that are wearing out prematurely. If our mechanic had not caught the faulty parts my new wife and i might be lying in a hospital somewhere hurt or worse. As responsible owners we are having the parts replaced as soon as possible. If dodge would have taken responsibility to have the parts replaced we wouldn't have to worry about our safety and others safety.
Where do i start! from day one we have had issues with this car. Cruse control didn't work, brought back to dealer the first week to be fixed. One month later, front speaker went out, another trip to the dealer speaker was replaced. At 34,611 miles, car was stuck in park, would not shift at all. Towed to dealer, replaced stop lamp. At 35,031 miles, front end making loud knocking noise, you guessed it, another trip to dodge, lower control arms replaced. Skipping to january of 2017, car now has 124,000 miles loud crunching sound coming from front driver side. Thought oh, another ball joint needs replacing, which has been replaced in january of 2016, along with more control arms, sway bar link, and struts, about $1200.00 in all. Took this pile of crap to local merlin's shop, showed me the rotted cross member with large holes in it, completely rotted through, back cross member was in bad shape as well. Absolutely disgusted with this car, traded it in for a 2011 chevy and got $ 500.00 which was pretty generous. How could dodge not recall this issue, my wife would drive this 5 days a week 40 miles a day on the highway, lucky she could of been injured or worse, she always said the front end was not right, this has been rusting out for years. I guess safety is not a priority with their customers, they never sent any warning out to have this checked out. I will never ever buy another chrysler/dodge or jeep product.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber and the sub frame is so rusted through that it cracked while my son was driving it.thankfully he was coming home and it happened couple minutes from home.i cannot believe a car, that is only 7 years old, can rust so severely in such a short period of time.i cannot believe dodge has not issued a recall on this.what are they waiting for? are they waiting for enough people to get into accidents and possibly kill somebody, before the recall this manufacture defect?they must have some really good bean counters. When i started looking on the internet, i was shocked to see so many complaints from people with the exact same problem as i am having, and their cars were younger then mine.i was shocked to find out that there have not been any recalls issued for this.
Sub frame rust on 42,000 mile car, will not pass pa state inspection.steering rack not securely attached to sub frame. Car steers erratically
Vehicle taken in for tire rotation.located excessive wear in lower ball joints,tierod ends and control arm bushings.many entries on internet of others with same vintage calibers finding same prob with premature wear. Failure of any of the above components.
Husband was driving our 2007 dodge caliber making a u-turn and noticed a jerk in the steering. Proceeded to drive to our complex as it was only two miles away. Made a second u-turn and same thing happened. Once in our complex and proceeded to go over the first speed bump. The car stopped with the front driver side dropped. He exited the car to see what happened and noticed the subframe had snappened in half and was rusted beyond extreme.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While operating the vehicle, the front suspension and steering wheel suddenly shook and vibrated. In addition, the steering column made a popping noise. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the front section of the subframe experienced severe rust and corrosion. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified and did not assist. The failure mileage was 98,000.
Car squeaks and clunks. Rear suspension components are extremely rusted.feels like car is fish tailing while driving. Was driving from work and lost all control of the car. Speed was about 25mph.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber from a young man come to find out he only paid $325 off of a car lot he has a dealers license and he was the only owner before me and did not tell me about the struts, there was a recall on them also has bad sensors ( gas, engine coolant and pcm internal sensors) sold the car knowingly and did not get the recalls done when needed i need something done i have five children and one grandchild who are at risk me driving and having a wreck. I do not have a document about my strutsbut i have had it looked at by several mechanics
The car would not start (lights worked, but engine would not turn over).after replacing the throttle cable and box, as well as some broken wiring, the car still would not start.the mechanic then towed the vehicle to a dodge dealership, where the computer was reset.the car ran for another week after it was first "fixed," and then again did not start (same problem as before).additionally, the light to indicate that the air bags were not functioning turned on prior to the vehicle not starting.this is more frustrating because we have had extensive issues with this car (replaced all tie rods, bushings, control arms, have a broken door from the hinge breaking, and had multiple tires wearing unevenly due to the car's suspension problems) already, and have sunk well over $6000 in repairs this year alone.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber new.i started having front end "vibrations" almost immediately (when i drove out of the dealership after delivery) mainly from 60-70mph.took it back to the dealer and was told there was nothing wrong.took it back numerous times and was told once the tires were bad; i replaced them at my expense.same problem.took it back again and was told one of the rims was bent; i bought new rims (almost $1,000).took it back again and was told the rims were bad again.had the rims checked and they are perfectly round.bought another set of tires (same as factory); same problem.i have 69,000 miles on my car and it still does the same thing.i guess i have to live with it since "it's my imagination."
Brakes on this vehicle are no good, very hard to stop.ball joints no goodsteering on this vehicle is not safe eitheri have noticed all the recalls and complaints.
The tie-rods in my 2007 dodge caliber were so worn they needed immediate replacement. The manager of the les schwab tire company i visited remarked that for the age and mileage on the vehicle the tie-rods should not be needing replaced.
Copy of complaint letter attached:october 25, 2006daimler chrysler motors corporation customer centerpo box 21-8004auburn hills, mi48321-8004, purchase date:march 25, 2006, dealership name:manassas dodge kia subaruto whom it may concern:after consulting with my attorney, mr. Thomas f. Hennessy of vienna, va, i was advised to make one last attempt to reconcile my problems with my 2007 dodge caliber before taking legal action.as of today my car has been seen by dodge dealerships six times for the same problem (see attached repair orders).the problem i am having is a bad vibration in the steering wheel once i have reached 60 miles an hour and above.this problem persists 90% of the time when driving.i view this as a serious safety defect or at the least a significant impairment. Each time the vehicle was brought into the dealership i was told it was repaired or they could not find a problem.i have owned many cars and never had a car perform this poorly.i kept bringing this car back to the dealership because i was concerned about my safety and still feel this way.i bought this vehicle for the sleek styling and performance qualities.i am very disappointed.i am now requesting that you get very much involved in the problem because i no longer have the time or the patience to deal with this any longer.i expect to have a response from you within ten days of your receiving this letter.
4 sets of headlight have blown on the car in the last 6 months. Then my gears aren't shifting correctly because it's making a clicking noise which has been heard by several people. Also the steering wheel clicks when you turn it on occasions. On a 2007 dodge caliber sxt2.0.
In the midst of me driving across the intersection... My car began to shake uncontrollably... I had to get of the road because my wheel on the driver's side was disconnected from they entire car... Due to sever corrosion, yu under vehicle.. When i saw photos... I was terrifed!! my life was on jeopardy.. The first day i purchased this vehicle... I am sending photos to help support my claims..
I own a 2007 dodge caliber sxt.recently took it in to be repaired because car was pulling severely to one side while driving and making bad grinding sounds.mechanic discovered the inner and outer tie rods and also the ball joints on both sides in the front of the vehicle were so deteriorated that he deemed the vehicle undriveable until repairs were made.in his official opinion they were the worst he had ever seen that did not result in the tires falling off.after doing research on the dodge caliber models i have seen that this is a common problem with that make and model of vehicle.what happens when your tires fall off at 65 mph on a highway?i do not want to be driving when that happens.no this problem has not led to a death yet, but do we really need to wait until it does before chrysler is forced to upgrade the parts on their vehicles?$1000 worth of parts and service on a 4 year old car is ridiculous and to know that because they chose to use low quality parts that could have resulted to my tires falling off at 65 mph is unsettling.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 25-30 mph, the contact stated that the accelerator pedal became stuck when it was depressed and the vehicle accelerated up to 80 mph. When the contact applied the brakes, the vehicle did not slow down. The steering wheel would not move and the gear shift lever would not shift into park. When she applied the emergency brake, the vehiclespun over a sidewalk into a parking lot. The identical failure occurred when she attempted to restart the vehicle; therefore,she towed the vehicle to an authorized dealer. Two months prior to the failure, the keys became stuck in the ignition for thirty minutes. The dealer had not informed the contact what caused the failure to occur. The contact stated that she experienced headaches and neck pain after the failure occurred. The current and failure mileages were approximately 60,000.
I bought this car used with a 90 day full warranty and 2 year power train. In the first 90 days i took the car back to toyota used lot who in turn took it to dodge to investigate the loose steering and also the stalling issues. Dodge repeatedly said nothing is wrong. To date, a year later, they wont fix the fuel pump which i have learned is a known issue on this model/year and causes stalling. I have stalled on the freeway and have children.... Its very upsetting.
Had creaking noises from front end, as i was inspecting noticed the front crossmember severely rusted with holes. Did a google search and found numerous complaints. Also found a campaign from dodge stating there was an extended warranty on both the rear and front subframes/cross members. I had already replaced the rear. I contacted dodge and was told there are no longer any campaigns or recalls that are active for my caliber. I stated that the front sub frame has rusted beyond its life and my vehicle has less than 145k miles. I also asked if they would provide assistance in its repair as it is a major safety hazard. They replied with, since all warranties are expired and no recalls are in effect, they would not help or provide any assistance with any repairs.
Front lower ball joints are completely shot.found this out when i got tires fixes- car only has 52,000 miles- i am a very good driver making sure that i watch out for all road conditions.
2007 dodge caliber sxt having ball joint/tie rod/control arm failure at 53,000 miles.replacement of all parts at 1000.00 expensive.vehicle is only 3 yrs old and have read numerous complaints about this as a safety issue.
I've had numerous issues with the vehicle suspension since i purchased this vehicle brand new (a 2007( around thanksgiving 2006. The first issue involved the steering and was told that both front struts, control arms and outer tie rod ends would require replacement - at 6k miles! this repair also involved replacing the rear brake shoes. The steering was making a grinding noise when parking or parallel parking at very low speeds. I had this repair performed using parts i purchased myself and a local mechanic i found on craigslist who was willing to do the labor for about $300 including the necessary 4 wheel alignment. The parts cost about $500 or so.another issue that has been present since i brought the car home has been this rattle and clunk in the rear suspension. It seems that nobody has been able to pinpoint what the exact problem may be. I replaced the rear shocks myself thinking that might be the problem, but it still makes this annoying noise. The car has no rear sway bar. I was told it's not a control issue and have "lived with it" as annoying as it is all these years. It seems it has not affected the vehicle control, but it's a nuissance. I'm getting ready to fix this problem myself as it must be the rear control arms or toe links. This always occurs while driving over an uneven surface like a gravel driveway or a very bumpy road.it also seems that the front tie rods appear to be in need of replacement yet again as i inpsected these myself and noted theres no boot on them and getting some steering noises again, including a clunk while steering or braking at very low speeds. Might need another set of control arms (not sure yet)really feel as if dodge should address and acknowledge this as a defect and pay for these repairs - as i've been reading here and on plenty of caliber forums i'm definitely not the only one who's had these exact problems.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 30 mph, the contact heard a knocking noise coming from the front suspension. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the technician stated that the control arm, outer tie rod ends and ball joints would need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired and the vin was not available. The approximate failure mileage was 60,000.
My 2007 dodge caliber was taken to my mechanic where it was found that the main subframe had rusted through in multiple places. The car is only 6 years old and has approximately 76,150 miles. I called chrysler and mentioned it. Customer service stated that they would only provide cost assistance if i had the work done at a chrysler dealership. The car was taken apart and on the lift at my preferred mechanic. I had my mechanic provide the service. I did receive a quote from a local chrysler dealership it would have cost me $ 850.00. My mechanic did the service for $ 650.00. Chrysler has refused payment. This subframe components is rusted through in three locations. After only 6 years, this doesn't seem acceptable on a major front end component.
2007 dodge caliber, while driving today going to make a left hand turn with son in the back seat. The keychain holder you attach to any key got caught on the sterring wheel part and actually broke the key off while driving. It the gadgets shouldn't be positioned that way. Anyway the whole front end of the key is still in the steering wheel and it almost caused alot of cars to hit the car because after they key broke off and half stayed in the car it actually locked the wheel. We do not know what to do but i told my spouse not to touch it. We could have been seriously hurt or killed today. I no longer feel safe at all. I feel the wheel and the space they have from where the key is inserted and where they put other things is obviouslly unsafe. We are frustrated and afraid of getting back in the car when it is fixed. Also where do we go to get this fixed since this is not our fault? a steering wheel should never be designed where the parts are so close together that a simple string that is your key chain and short can get caught on the gadgets of the wheel.my son is only 4 please give us advice. When trying to get the wheel to move after it stopped our son was jerked and we are frustrated.
I was slowing down to stop at an intersection and heard a thump on the bottom of the car.as i started to pull forward the steering was very difficult and the i heard a whining sound from the right front tire.i was about a mile from my repair shop so i had my brother follow me with his emergency flashers and drove slowly to the shop where i found out that the subframe was completely rotted through.in the last year, i have had to replace upper and lower control armsand the alternator.
The front cross member is rusted through so bad you can put your hand in side we bought the car last year. Now as we take it to the mechanics to get allignment he gave us the bad news about this. What i don't understand is why this most important part is rusted so bad while the parts around it isn't. I've got to come up with 1250 dollars for parts and labor. Why no recall on this there is no warning of this part fails and while we're driving and it breaks well. Crash and die . So dodge this is what you do to your customers.i'm so what i can to get the word out.
My 2007 dodge caliber, which only has 56,000 miles driven,had to have its left front tie rod end replaced at 25,000, and now the lower control arms, right tie rod end and left strut need to be replaced.after some research, i found that many 2007 dodge caliber owners are experiencing the same problems.i think that the suspension on these vehicles, specifically the lower control arms, which contain the ball joints, are defective and need to be recalled, before someone gets killed, when their tires fall off the car.
I had my car in with another complaint, the tire pressure gauge was leaking.while they had it on the hoist, they told me the tires were wearing unevenly due to damage to the tie rods.i only have 36,000. Miles on my car and it is a little over three years old.i am trying to get with their paying for at least part of the $700. Repair and cost of new tires.
I was changing the oil of my wife 2007 dodge caliber when i looked over and saw that the lower control arm was completely almost completely cracked through the middle portion of it. A day prior my wife mentioned that the car was driving a little weird. This could have been extremely dangerous for my wife and other motorist if it failed on the public roads.
I purchased my 2007 dodge caliber august 2007. Nothing happened until the warranty was up.here is what has happened and mileage. 40,000 right front strut45,000 left front strut50,000 outer tie rods replace l and r55,000 ball bearings and lower control arms have to be replaced65,000 replace 2 sensors that are not communicating so car is stalling and now hot water spraying on my foot when gas is pushed down andburnt my footthis car should of had many more recalls than it has.dodge/chrysler has done nothing to help me with these costs and now i am stuck.
My 2007 dodge caliber sxt having ball joint/tie rod/control arm failure at 64,000 miles. Replacement of all parts would be $1000.00. Vehicle is only 3 yrs old and have read numerous upon numerous complaints about this as a safety issue.
My wife was driving my car heard a squealing noise and could not control the car. The steering seemed very lose. She was by a garage and stopped and left the car there. Today they looked at the car and send the undercarriage was shot and could not be fixed.. Can chrysler be notified of this and should we get a second opinion? its a good thing this happened on a back road with no traffic or my wife could have been seriously injured.
My son drove my car one night and he said he didn't like the steering because it act like ilose and tires about to fall off i told him i know cause it was eating up the out side of tires fast to wear wires were seen on both sides of the front tires and later eveny son had a wreck and total out car on the seen where the wreck happen it didn't make sense to me and my son didn't have his seat beat on and it threw h out and i believe iif he did it would of killed him he don't remember nothing cause i think it put him in shock i have not received the police report but i have taking pictures and i do know there was a alot rust underneath i only had the car for two month the car is at a salvage place and i can't get it and i am going to have to pay for it i just think something was not right on the steering and supention it was on hwy on a straight away
The 2007 dodge caliber sxt is extremely hard on its suspension and steering components.i was told it is normal for the ball joints and tie rods to almost fall off after 50k miles.the warranty i purchased will not cover the cost of repairs because in their opinion it is normal wear and tear on the vehicle.i believe it is not normal for this problem to occur.looking at similar complaints online i think dodge should consider this a safety recall.
Started to hear squeaking and clanging noises in the front passenger side of my car.it would make the noises with every bump and especially could hear it going down hills.then the steering wheel would wobble and it felt like i was driving on a flat tire, but tire pressure was fine.when it started to be all over the road, like i was constantly hydro-planning, i researched on line and found that this particular year and model of car has major problems with the control arms, ball bearings and tie rods.i made an appointment with my mechanic and told him i thought it was the passenger side control arm.he checked it out and it was both control arms with connected ball bearing, both tie rods and both sway bar end links needing replaced.he also discovered that the tires that had been put on not even 9 months ago where showing threads.cost of repair not including the new tires and alignment was $887.will be up over $1000.00 after tires are replaced and alignment is complete.i was afraid to drive on wet pavement, had very little control of the car.was always correcting the steering while driving, it just pulled and when i hit a bump it would jerk to the side where the bump was.
2007 caliber. 30,068 miles on car and lower control arms are bad and need to be replaced. Noise in front end.mechanic said borderline failure
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving approximately 65 mph, the vehicle veered slightly to the left.the contact attempted to correct the steering and the vehicle overturned.the vehicle was destroyed and the cause of failure has not been determined.the current and failure mileages were 1,400.
Thought i had a loose belt called dealership where i bought car told to dodge dealership i did that $90.00 service fee said i needed new alternator $1,086.00, i could not afford that took it to america's they said for $615.00 replace then they called and said need all new tie rods well that would bring it to $1077.00.i could only get a loan for $1,000.00 so the tie rods i cannot get.after the dodge dealership had my car when they gave it back to me that car was running so bad and shaking which it never did.i bought the car i had 70,000 that was 3 1/2 years ago now i only $75,000 miles on car.my car always ran smooth on highways and city streets .there was just a noise on my car.the car ran great.people could hear the noise also as i am deaf so i could barely hear noise with my hearing aid on.i had the car inspected just a few months ago and passed inspection they drove the car.
Problem with front struts the steering wheel as well . The whole front end moves horrible
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 15 mph, the power steering failed almost causing a crash. The contact stated that the engine cradle was severely rusted, as well as the driver's side ball joint. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 65,000.
2007 dodge caliber. Ball joints and tie rods failing at 52,000 miles. Very premature. The dealer said the vehicle was not safe to drive off the lot.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving 60 mph on the expressway, the contact suddenly lost control of the vehicle.the vehicle rolled over at least three to four times and landed upside down on its roof.the contact sustained injuries, although she was wearing her seat belt.there was no ice on the road and the pavement was dry at the time of the failure.a police report was filed.the vehicle was towed to a repair shop by the insurance company.the manufacturer has not yet been notified.the failure mileage was 55,000.updated 03-09-09 updated 03/13/09.
Bought car new in 2007, since that time have had to have left tie rod replaced 5 times,most recent being this month (6th time), previous 3 months prior.this is an ongoing problem, but there has been no recall on this car,i have called chrysler and reported it.they did reimburse me a couple years ago for parts for the previous three times it had to be replaced.there is no warning when the tie rod goes, it has been found on my yearly inspections.i am worried that the steering will gosomeday when i am driving and there will be an accident, which keeps me on edge whenever i drive it;there is 80,256 miles on it, i don't abuse it by any means.
I have a 07 caliber bought off a individual cash price.wasn't aware of the concern issue with the front left broken struts,. No start or no crank due to theft system wireless control module. ...water leak from sun roof drain tubes. ...blown struts. ...engine and transmission control modules may need to be updated at the same time. ...no start or no crank due to theft system issue. ...excess drain on battery due to faulty radio.as well moan type noise from exhaustsqueek noise from clutch pedalac compressor and condensor replacment due to "slugging" conditionnoise from hvac blower motor due to debirsswish sound from rear suspensionsoftware update for steering angle sensor faultwhistle sound from left outside mirror assemblymetallic rattle sound from liftgate driving around town
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving in a parking lot, the front driver's side wheel detached from the vehicle. As a result, the vehicle crashed into a light pole. The air bags deployed. There were no injuries sustained. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to the dealer (canandaigua chrysler dodge jeep, 2591 rochester rd, canandaigua, ny 14424) where it was diagnosed that the control arm failed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified and informed the contact that the vehicle could not be repaired due to the crash; therefore, the contact would be responsible for the repair cost. The failure mileage was 130,000. *see voq 11090513*
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 55 mph, the horn independently activated and the steering wheel seized. All the warning lights on the instrument cluster illuminated and the gauges and meters provided inaccurate readings. The vehicle stalled as it veered into a ditch. In addition, the contact noticed smoke underneath the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 129,023.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, a howling noise would be heard from the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer where the contact was informed that the vehicle needed new brakes, tie rods and a transmission. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 75,500.
Took car in for inspection and was told by mechanic that the frame was shot, totally rusted out and could break anytime.
The front end makes all kinds of noises. Locks dont work cant open trunk.head lights work when they want to.
The vehicle had a failure of the front end parts, tie rod ends, ball joints.paid to have it repaired last year and now it has happened again, only this time both sides.i now have 85,000 miles on the vehicle.this is just ridiculous. There should be a recall on this product.
The bottom of my car is completly rusted my tires look slanted sideways like they are about to fall off there is cracks in the frame and i cant drive this car it isnt at all safe i bought it less than a mionth ago and just found out there is a recall on these make n models in my area for rusted underenath and tires are about to fall off online it says a 10 year repair recall was issued in 2014 from crysler
I had to have the front tie rod ends replaced on my 2007 dodge caliber at 41,500 miles. After researching the problem a little more and discussing it with the service technician, it seems that this is a big problem with 2007 dodge calibers and late model dodges in general. This is a serious safety issue. The technician told me that i'm lucky the steering didn't go out in my car while i was driving down the highway. This is something that should be investigated immediately as there are a lot of dodge calibers on the road right now. What's it going to take to get some action done about this? someone dying in a horrible accident?
I was driving my vehicle on our county road, and lost control because the carquickly and sharply veered off to the right towards the ditch.the cause is the sub frame assembly was badly corroded and the control arm assembly broke free from of the frame. We had the vehicle inspected on a recall two years ago to be checked for a corroded crossmember.we were not informed of any problem down then with the sub frame. It was very frightening, and had i been going faster i don't know if i'd be here today.it's in the repair shop now. This occurred today, august 22, 2017.
My sisters 2007 dodge caliber only has only 32236 miles on it and the ball joints need replaced already, it cost 800 dollars to replace them, i looked on line and everybody that has a 2007 caliber is having the same problem there should be a recall on the ball joints, just look on line and u will see how many people are having trouble with the ball joints, how many complaints does it take to have a recall done, thank you for your time, please just e mail me back thank you.
The first signs of a problem were a clicking sound when turning the steering wheel.it did not happen every time, and i did nothing about it until december, when a portion of a strap with electrical wire embedded began to protrude from the upper steering column.it soon began to be a nuisance as the portion grew longer and would catch on the steering position adjustment knob.i grew alarmed when the airbag light came on, and took it to the dealership.they said it was a broken clockspring, and they had to order the part.it cost me over $300 to get this repaired, and now i see toyota is doing a recall for this exact same thing, a spiral cable assembly that becomes damaged from turning the steering wheel. It is a poor design. Toyota is replacing this with a better part, but i do not think dodge did that, and i had to pay to get this replaced.i am concerned it could happen again, and believe there should be a recall by dodge also.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 30 mph, an abnormal noise was heard underneath the vehicle coming from the rear driver's side wheel. In addition, the steering wheel vibrated. The contact drove the vehicle home. The contact was able to inspect the vehicle and noticed rust on the crossmember. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer for diagnostic testing or repairs. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 131,000.
So , the car i purchased on aug.2nd, of this year... Has many issues! first of all about 2 weeks into having the vehicle... I needed exhaust work done... Shortly after that.. I began experiencing some pulling to the right when i touched the break pedal, now i'm experiencing some weird situation under the front of the car. Which in fact is causing the car to shake and now when i tap the break to stop the vehicle theirs a loud noise and when i give it gas.. It shreeks! it's very terrifying to say the least... I was unable to drive it back to my residence... I'm unable to drive this vehicle at all
Vehicle was purchased new, and at 29k service dealer replaced tie rod end at our expense said to be out of warranty. 4 new tires were put on the car and an alignment could not be done because of excessive play in front end. Car was brought back to dealer and it found that the lower ball joint was severely worn to the point where it was almost falling out of the car. This also was replaced at our cost.with 6 months gone by and 6000 miles we were told that the other tie rod was bad and thecar was unsafe to drive but that they could not repair it at this time. We then called chrysler and they said the would work with the dealer but we would have to pay to get this fixed also. When we brought the car back to the dealer again they again found that the ball joint was bad also. This all comes after the car goes out of warranty and we have been complaining about the front end almost every time we bring it in for the oil change. It was stated by the service manager that the reason forthis was the bad driving habits of the owner. Andthis was also the same reasoning behind all the other calibers with the same issue. When questioned why they did not find this earlier and why the fill out a special checklist that includes steering and suspension, it was stated that this inspection is only a visual inspection, and that if i had noticed that the report form point to the actual steering wheel not the steering components.
Sub frame was so rusted it affected the steering, motor mount collapsed into the sub frame, lower control arm was almost separated from the frame. I was traveling atabout 65 mph on the n.y. Thruway when i started having problems with the steering . When i arrived home i investigated and found the car was so unsafe i couldn't drive it again until sub frame was replaced. I saved the frame that was removed from the vehicle if needed.
Car is hard to start cranks very slow and there is a tapping sound like a bad lifter upon starting but goes away when the car warms up. The wheel bearings had to be replaced. Alignment was way off and tires had to be replaced. Brakes have to be replaced. There is a hollow noise from the rear of the vehicle. After jacking the car up to check that sound out the rear passenger wheel would not come off the ground. After replacing the front wheel bearings and new tires the car now shakes and vibrates in the front end. The car has been at the repair center for 10 days on and off. This last time it has been there for 6 days and counting. These vehicles are unsafe for the road and should be recalled and taken off the road permanently. There are way too many problems with these vehicles and the manufacturer will not do anything about it. Nhtsa needs to step up and hold the manufacturer accountable before someone gets seriously injured or killed. Do not wait until there is a fatality! action needs to be taken now!
My car horn, lights, power windowswill not work and the car will not start the car stopped without warning and my lights when off. Now the car does not turn on at all after getting a tow truck to my mechanic he stated that my power train module needed to be re program but he could not do it so i had to get another tow truck to take the car to the dealer which told me i have to replace my tipm @ $1700. Plus tax. Too expensive this s/b cover by dodge this was scary for my car to stopped while i was driving i could have kill myself and someone elsei already paid over $200. In tow trucks
Front of vehicle started to shake and drivers side front made creaking noise. Took vehicle to dealer and they stated front struts and components were bad as well as drivers side ball joint. Vehicle was repaired however there is vibration in the steering and the vehicle pulls hard right. Also front end makes a lot of noise. Dealer performed front wheel alignment and balanced tires but problem is still there and mechanics can't find the issue. Vehicle is unsafe to drive and am very afraid to drive it especially since i'm disabled with young children. There are numerous complaints about the suspension issues with these cars and the problems need to be fixed before someone gets seriously injured or killed. Can't understand why nothing is being done after all of these complaints have been made by so many. This is why people don't buy american cars anymore. Foreign manufacturers will actually recall vehicles and stand behind their products.
Driving 15-20 mph in residential subdivision car veered radically to the right independent of steering striking parked vehicle. Right fronttire turned right beyond maximum and is pinned against wheel well. Left front tire straight and aligned properly with steering wheel. Right tie rod bent 180 degrees with threaded portion bent parallel to it's self.obvious catastrophic failure of steering/suspension on right front side of vehicle that had the failure occurred at highway speeds death of serious injury would likely have resulted. The vehicle is a one owner dodge caliper with 33,827 miles, serviced regularly at fair oaks dodge, chantilly va
Driving normally on a town road and i heard a thud. Steering wheel jerked and came back to center. Car swerved into the oncoming traffic lane. Drove home at a steady crawl with front end shaking and feeling real loose. Checked my front end and could see my spring binding over the strut and strut mounts were squeaking and making noise while turning the steering wheel. Strut rods were stuck and would not compress. Ordered new struts and mounts. Will be replacing as soon as they come in. Glad this didn't happen on the highway and there were no cars coming in the oncoming lane or there would have been a serious crash.
Upon hitting a small pothole, the subframe broke causing a loss of steering into oncoming traffic. Luckily there were no accidents. The tires now go two separate directions. After getting the vehicle towed to a repair shop, they discovered the subframe had rusted through due to the air compressor leaking directly onto the subframe. When having our insurance adjuster from state farm out to assess the damage it was determined it was manufacturer's defect and would not be covered. I then contacted dodge who stated that the perforation for rusting was 100,000 miles. Although the incident on the vehicle we are still paying for through an authorized dodge dealer happened on a vehicle that has exceeding the 100,000 miles by only 10,000 miles - we are now stuck with a car that's going to cost over $1,100 to fix due to a manufacturer's defect. This incident could've resulted in a fatality. Dodge needs to be held liable for this issue.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 50-55 mph, the vehicle began to shake abnormally. As the contact decelerated, the vehicle exhibited an unusual noise from the passenger side of the vehicle near the front brake.the vehicle was taken to the dealer yet the dealer was unable to duplicate the failure. The failure persisted and the vehicle was taken to the dealer three times for the failure.on the third visit, the dealer replaced the front bushings, front bearing and other unknown repairs but to no avail. The failure persisted and the vehicle was taken to the dealer several times but never repaired. On one occasion, the vehicle stalled without warning and the vehicle was towed to the dealer but not repaired because they were unable to duplicate or diagnose a failure.the failure mileage was 68,000 and the current mileage was 74,000.
Drove home from work parked my car next morning it wouldn't start.had battery power and cranked when i turned the key but would not kick over to start. Towed to mechanic.he said there wasn't anything wrong with it, he cleaned the spark plugs, weather warmed up and car worked again.this happened twice, he stated i needed to take it to dodge dealership to have the computer reprogrammed (that this was a common problem for my car type)two days later, driving to work all the lights went on and the steering froze, not able to turn left or right. I was able to exit and park car without incident now having it towed to dealership.
Reversed out of parking spot put car in drive and nothing happened.turns out my tie rod and ball joints on passenger side basically fell apart.garage said other side is just about ready to go too.thankfully i was only pulling out of a parking spot...5 minutes later and i could have been wrapped around a telephone pole.been looking online to find many people also have had this problem.this should really be looked into further!
Unable to steer after swerving to avoid a collision while in an interstate highway.
I had to have the whole front end of the vehicle replaced at about 36,000 miles, tie rod ends, ball joints, and lower control arms. Now only 1.5 years later (at 53,000 miles) one of the control arms is bad again. I'm not sure why all of these parts have such a high failure rate but from doing research on the internet and talking to other caliber owners this seems to be a very widespread problem that is happening at very low mileage. Eventually somebody is going to get hurt driving one of these things when the steering goes out. I have talked to chrysler people about the problem but they of course don't want to admit any fault and instead imply that you may have caused the problem yourself due to your driving habits.
I i have changed multiple times the sway bar links and had to put on new struts twice. There was supposed to be a recall on the cross member bar and when i took it to be fixed the dealer would not honor the recall on the bar.it is now making once again a popping sound in the front drivers side and i am wanting to once again get the recall on the car that was supposed to be fixed before.
These cars are dangerous for people to be driving on the highlway. Dodge knows the control arms are defective and they should be made to do a recall on these cars. Luckily, i have not had a wreck in this. Vehicle. If the control arms break while driving,it will be very bad. There are so many complaints on-line about these cars, i am shocked nobody has made dodge do something about this problem.
Front end started clunking at approx 57,000 miles. Had checked and replaced tie rod ends and ball joints.
Tie rod ends failed state inspection at 25,000 miles.
The ball joints and tie rods on 2006 to current dodge calibers. They have premature wear which the company knows about. I have researched for several days and have found hundreds of complaints on the ball joints and tie rods. They begin to fail with as little as 30,000 miles on the vehicle. I have not repaired my vehicle yet due to the $1000.00 it will cost only to fail again in two years. If one of the tie rods break steering will be lost resulting in loss of control of the vehicle.
I have replaced both front struts both sway bar links passengers side front lower control arm and bushings (ball joints) still here something hitting and while driving the car goes where it wants in steering goes into other lanes to oncoming vehicles have to pull back onto my lane like it looses steering
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while having routine maintenance performed on the vehicle, she was advised that the tie rod, bolts and joints were fractured. The mechanic stated that the failure occurred as a result of not having enough lubrication on the components. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and the current mileage was 78,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 5 mph, the contact lost control of the vehicle and crashed. The contact exited the vehicle and noticed the front driver side wheel was detached from the vehicle. A police report was not filed and there were no injuries. The vehicle was towed to an authorized dealer where the contact was told the ball joint detached from the vehicle. The vehicle was repaired. The contact also stated the same ball joint was replaced two months prior to the incident by the authorized dealer. The failure and current mileages were 43,000.updated 6/8/11 the consumer stated two months later, the tie rods had to be replaced. Updated 06/23/11
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the front wheels became unstable as the vehicle shook violently. The vehicle was taken to a dealer. The technician diagnosed the front tie rods and ball joints needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 1,000 and the current mileage was 110,000.
Both outer tire rods failed at 46,000 miles, car sounded like to front end was going to fall off.replaced and took for alignment.repair clinic could not do alignment because both lower control arm assemblies with ball joint were unrepairable.factory defect, joints sealed so unable to lubricate, forces owner to replace at $800.00 for both or possibly lose control and have a fatal accident.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for routine maintenance when the technician detected that the front brake rotors exhibited severe rust and corrosion. The shims, front brakes and rotors were replaced. In addition, the inner tie rods loosened from the steering rack and the front control arm bushing separated. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the defect. The failure mileage was 23,167. Updated 06/05/12*lj the consumer stated that chrysler has since repaired the vehicle. Updated 06/06/12
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber sxt (na). The contact stated that after having routine service done, the dealer noticed that the tires were worn and the front outer tie rods needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. Now 20,000 miles later after having the tires replaced again, the dealer noticed the front inner tie rods and ball joints needed to be replaced again, which were causing the tires to wear faster. The vehicle had not been repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 23,000. The vin was unavailable.
2007 dodge caliber sxt-35k miles. Purchased brand new. No accidents. Tierod is in need of being replaced already. Failed inspection for ny state 2nd year of owning it.
Bought 2007 caliber brand new at about 30,000 miles heard grinding and thunk noise when making a right hand turn went to dealership they stated the right tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. (of course warranty was expired.). I called chrysler and of course they did nothing and i filed a complaint with them at that time but had to pay out of pocket.now it's three years later and my vehicle did not pass inspection due to the tie rod & wheel being loose. Why is there no recall for this problem? never again chrysler!!
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for routine maintenance when the technician detected that the front brake rotors exhibited severe rust and corrosion. The shims, front brakes and rotors were replaced. In addition, the inner tie rods loosened from the steering rack and the front control arm bushing separated. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the defect. The failure mileage was 23,167. Updated 06/05/12*lj the consumer stated that chrysler has since repaired the vehicle. Updated 06/06/12
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 30 mph, a noise was heard under the rear and front of the vehicle. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that there was rust on the subframe, which damaged the rack and pinion. The contact was informed that the vehicle was unsafe to drive. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was approximately 106,070.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was undergoing an oil change, the local dealer (zeigler chrysler dodge jeep ram, 4200 parkway place sw, grandville, mi 49418) discovered that the rear crossmember and front engine cradle under the vehicle were extremely corroded and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact was informed that the vehicle was originally registered in canada and the warranty and recalls expired once the vehicle was imported. The manufacturer was notified and informed the contact that no recall was available for the vehicle. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.
The car would not steer with any controllability. Upon 2 different independent mechanic inspections we discovered the lower ball joint was so worn/loose if i had continued to drive i could easily have lost a tire. The entire underframe is corroded and i was told it would have to be replaced soon or it would also become a safety hazard in the near future. Dodge has to be aware of this problem because after conducting some research on my own i have found hundreds of 2007 caliber owners with almost identical issues to mine. Hoping no one gets hurt before they realize what a serious risk this type of low quality manufacturing is...
1.events leading up to the failure, accelerating from light making a left hand turn.2. Failure and its consequences, bushing of gas pedal fell out and caused the engine to serge to 5,000 rpm, applied brakes and rate of acceleration slowed, had to turn engine off to bring vehicle to a stop. 3. What was done to correct the failure; service done by dealer, replaced gas pedal assembly [ 04891623ar 06068b3b 24936f 43595418901 lhd ] (old part is available).
2007 dodge caliber, while driving today going to make a left hand turn with son in the back seat. The keychain holder you attach to any key got caught on the sterring wheel part and actually broke the key off while driving. It the gadgets shouldn't be positioned that way. Anyway the whole front end of the key is still in the steering wheel and it almost caused alot of cars to hit the car because after they key broke off and half stayed in the car it actually locked the wheel. We do not know what to do but i told my spouse not to touch it. We could have been seriously hurt or killed today. I no longer feel safe at all. I feel the wheel and the space they have from where the key is inserted and where they put other things is obviouslly unsafe. We are frustrated and afraid of getting back in the car when it is fixed. Also where do we go to get this fixed since this is not our fault? a steering wheel should never be designed where the parts are so close together that a simple string that is your key chain and short can get caught on the gadgets of the wheel.my son is only 4 please give us advice. When trying to get the wheel to move after it stopped our son was jerked and we are frustrated.
2007 dodge caliber. Consumer writes in regards to cracked manifold and rusted sub frame. *ldthe consumer stated the frame was supposed to be repaired under warranty, but hasn't provided the funding.
2007 dodge caliber sxt leaks water into the front and rear floor boards on the passenger side whenever it rains.this seems to be a common problem with these vehicles and my dealer will not or cannot fix it.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at unknown speeds, an abnormal sound emitted from the rear of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the sub frame had to be replaced due to corrosion. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 93,000.
My 2007 dodge caliber has a water leak that allows rain water to enter the vehicle. The used car dealer i bought it from (had it less than 1 year) said it was a gasket leak in the front fender. I don't know if this is right or not because the car's entire driver side floor board has yet to dry out. Vehicle constantly acts as though it is going to stall. This has happened in idle in traffic and when pushing on gas from stop. Sometimes the low pressure sensor oil light will flicker on and the car will start to jerk. Sometimes the vehicle just hesitates for a long time when switching gears. Dealer unable to duplicate this problem. Newest issue - when traveling at approx. 55 mph on the highway, all doors mysteriously unlocked themselves. Very frustrating and inconvenient... Dealer does not offer rental or temporary car even though they have my brand new caliber that im paying for even while its in their possession. The dealer could not duplicate stalling/oil light issue and i took it to an independent mechanic had an oil change done and still did it. Took it back and he couldn't find anything either. Computer not reporting anything and no recalls.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While at an independent mechanic for routine service, the technician noticed that the entire subframe was rusted through. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 186,624.
Engine cradle is completely rusted out on our 2007 dodge caliber sxt. I have never seen something like this on a car that's not too old. Looking at the engine cradle it has a hole about 12 inches round and along the engine cradle support or whatever its called that sticks up in the air welded to the cradle ...updated 07/30/15 the consumer stated the part was replaced at not charge. Updated 08/13/14
My 2007 dodge caliber has anoff idle hesitation when you start to pull a way from a stop light, the car also has a cracking/snapping sound coming from the lower right corner of the windshield when going over small bumps or cracks in the road this accrues at any speed the car also makes a rattling noise when it is first started and continues until the car warms up,this happens in warm or cool temperatures, also the rear door speakersare rattling and i do not listen to loud music the car has 7500 miles on it.
Dt*:the contact stated while driving 60mph on the highway, the manufactured floor brackets that hold the floor mat became entangled on the contact's shoelace. This occurred because the vehicle did not come equipped with floor mats.the manufacturer was alerted.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 25 mph, an abnormal noise was heard coming from the front of the vehicle. In addition, the vehicle started shaking. The vehicle was taken to columbiana chrysler jeep dodge ram (100 commerce cir, columbiana, oh 44408, (330) 482-4415) where it was diagnosed that the front end cradle needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 132,000.
My 2007 dodge caliber has a water leak that allows rain water to enter the vehicle and the january 8th appointment will be the 4th time at the dealership for this same issue.water seems to be entering somewhere in the front of the vehicle and settles under the passenger seat.while "repairing the leak" the first time, the vehicle was returned to me smelling like cigarette smoke, the second time, the trim above the passenger side door was not properly replaced, the third time, a panel underneath the dash on the passenger side fell off (apparently was not replaced properly), they glued the rubber stripping on the passenger side door panel making it impossible to remove my satellite radio antenna and the trim above the passenger side door is still not in place correctly (seems to have been forced into place).also, the person working on my vehicle said he guaranteed that it was fixed after the 3rd time, but it wasn't.vehicle constantly acts as though it is going to stall when idle and also when accelerating from a stop - when accelerating, vehicle hesitates.dealer unable to duplicate this problem.newest issue - when traveling at approx. 55 mph on the highway, all doors mysteriously unlocked themselves.very frustrating and inconvenient... Dealer does not offer rental or temporary car even though they have my brand new caliber that i'm paying for even while it's in their possession.this is the second dodge vehicle in a row that we've had problems with - 1st was a 2004 dodge ram 1500 with stalling issues that the dealer could not duplicate.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the contact was changing the oil, he noticed that the front subframe was rusted. The contact called griffin's hub chrysler jeep dodge ram (located at 5700 s 27th st, milwaukee, wi 53221, (414) 325-3333), but the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified. The failure mileage was 157,000.
I started hearing a metal clanking noise in the front of my car. It progressed and got worse as i drove more. I brought it into a repair shop only to find out the subframe - both front and rear- is completely rusted and rotted out. They could put their finger through the frame it was so frail. It only has 120k miles on it. It is completely unsafe to drive so now i am out of work, etc until i replace it or fix it. The noise occurs whenever turning, hitting bumps, and occasionally while just driving straight. It does not occur while on a highway.
Extensive corrosion front and rear cross frame membrane. Making vehicle dangerous to drive.dodge knew of the problem and extended the warranty but did not inform all owners.
Have owned caliber for 8 or 9 years. Few weeks ago, car started shaking when in motion and quickly became severe shaking and making loud groaning sounds no matter how fast we drove it. Took the car to mechanic who advised subframe was completely rusted out. Dealership advised our warranty ended april 2017 for a rustproblem we were never notified of. Dodge csr said they notified the original owner vs a current vin owner which is total bs.
My front carriage that holds up the engine and tire alignment outside shell rusting out on the back side.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While having routine maintenance performed on the vehicle by an independent mechanic, it was brought to the attention of the contact that the vehicle's cross member had rust holes. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the front lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, and cross member failed and needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 76,092.
Vehicle front sub frame rusted through with holes and excessive rusted components in rear suspension components. Cause. Excessive corrosion due to normal exposure to environment and normal driving conditions. My vehicle was excluded from a recall. The vehicle was built with the same parts as the vehicles that got covered by the existing recall. And has identical corrosion failures as the vehicles included in the recall. I have already replaced engine oil pan that rusted and was leaking. Transmission oil pan replaced. Rusted and was leaking.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for an unrelated repair and it was discovered that the entire subframe was severely rusted. The vehicle was not repaired. The mechanic recommended the vehicle be driven only short distances due to a potential safety risk. In addition, the front passenger and driver side control arms were replaced on a separate occassion. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 45,000.
The vehicles subframe was all rotted and drivers side tire practically fell off while it was being driven.contacted dodge and they said because there wasn't an open recall there was nothing they could do about it.my question is was there a recall on my particular vehicle if so when/where was it fixed.we bought this used and have no prior information on it.if this vehicle wasn't included on previous recalls it should have been and they should fix it now.
Car went in for repair and was advised that subframe has rotted out. It has barely 106,000 miles on it. This vehicle has a known problem of the frame rusting out bad. Mechanic is trying to fix it but it may not be worth it. Car may fall a part at any time. This car needs to be recalled at least the subframe, it is not safe and costs the owners way too much to repair with very few miles on it.
Front subframe is rusted so badly the bolts are barely attached to the steering column, so car is unsafe to drive. Mileage: 126,000. Dodge customer service claims they extended the warranty through 2016 to fix this, but i did not receive notice as i had bought it used in 2014 from a non-dodge dealership. Independent mechanic is quoting $1200 to repair, including $700 for the subframe itself from chrysler. This appears to be a known issue from many other dodge caliber owners, so there should be a safety recall.
My 2007 caliber has leaking problems, it has been in the shop twice and still not fixed, also i just brought it in for a grinding noise, at 16,000 miles.the dealer 1st told me nothing is wrong come and get it, i did not get it i told them to keep it and drive it 1st thing in the morn.they did and heard the loud vibrating noise.they called me and told me it needed swaybar bushings and a new transmission.this caliber is junk.with each supposed repair for leaking they had my car for 2 weeks total.also this time with the transmission it has be 3 days. I have to pay for a rental car each time.the power door locks make a weird loud noise at times when unlocking the doors.i do not feel safe with my 4 kids in the car with me.i need a safe vehicle.
2007 dodge caliber front engine cradle undercarriage crossmember subframe is a known issue but instead of doing a recall, chrysler/dodge released an extended warranty for the item.my safety complaint is when i took the car for service based on front end noise i found out the frame had been dangerously rusted.the mechanic (h&j auto repair milton, wi), would not let me drive the car home.my 20 year old son had been driving the car for the last year and a half and drives 30 miles to and from work 3-5 days a week depending on his schedule.the frame could have literally broke in half while he was driving it on a major highway.i bought the car used from jack wolf chevrolet in 2009 and seemed to be a pretty good car even though the model has some documented issues with the front suspension.my complaint is twofold.first, i would have expected chrysler/dodge to do a better job of alerting the public about the frame issue.second, it should have been a recall due to the risk of possible loss of life.these cars are still being resold and many are still on the road.it's likely i will fix the car at my own expense as long as it will be safe to drive.i didn't think to take a picture friday when it was diagnosed.there are many examples and discussions on the topic in the caliber discussion groups and other web blogs.
My husband was driving home from work and the k member just broke as he approached an intersection. It is now on a trailer unable to be driven.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact stated that when it rained, water would leak inside the vehicle and build up on the front passenger and driver sides.the contact took the vehicle to the dealer where the dealer advised that they had to run water on top of the vehicle to determine the origin of the leak.the contact was concerned that the water build-up could possibly lead to an electrical problem or engine damage.the failure mileage was 69,000. The vin was not available.
When i was driving in town at speeds around 25-40 mph i kept hearing a clicking noise beneath the drivers seat, especially when i made turns.i took it to a shop and they lifted it up.turns out the entire suspension carriage was rusting and rotting.the clicking noise i was hearing was rusty pieces of metal rubbing against one another.we took it to a dealership and they said that the ac condensate line was directed to the subframe/undercarriage of the caliber.the water was pooling and causing it to rust.i'm grateful we found out about it when we did instead of having the whole bottom of the car fall out from under us when we were going at a high speed.this seems to be happening to many of the dodge calibers right around 7 years.we have photos of the damage.unbelievable.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was being repaired per an unspecified failure by an independent mechanic, the contact was informed that the undercarriage was rusted and could not be repaired. The dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 180,000. Consumer stated spoke with corporate about undercarriage ( about 4 months past extended warranty expiration) approved repair. Took it to the repair shop but the shop did not have any notes from corporate. On 12/18 driverside ball - joint rusted and snapped, had towed to dealership. Contacted corporate 4 times but no response.consumer also has issues with both front door hinges rusted out, back doors are starting too, they're difficult to close at half way shut.
Crossmember detached from vehicle while driving causing loss of steering due to front drivers wheel and axle becoming detached. Took out control arm,cv joints , transmission cooling lines. It left skid marks in pavement where the tire dug in. Actually ripped the tread on new tire. Come to find out this is an extended warranty through dodge. However if your not the original owner of the vehicle you may not be notified because it is not a recall.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that vehicle made a loud noise while driving at various speeds. The vehicle was taken to two independent mechanics for inspection. The failure was located at the sub frame, which was severely corroded and fractured. The contact was advised that the vehicle was unsafe to drive. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure.the vin was not available.the failure and current mileage was 124,000.
Noticed rusted subframe with big hole. We knew it needed to be replaced. No particular reason for the erosion other than the way the vehicle is designed. Vehicle is only 6-7 years old. This type of erosion is usually only seen on old vintage vehicles. A few days ago, we ran over a hidden pot hole and the subframe is completely broken apart. Now car is completely unsafe to drive. This car was poorly designed in this area. The company should recall the subframe to replace and install a rerouting piece for the ac to drip on and bypass dripping on the frame.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 40 mph, an abnormal noise emitted from the front of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the sub frame had corroded and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 90,000.
The contacts owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 45 mph, the frame of the vehicle fractured without warning. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the frame was rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 150,000.
When doing a brake job i noticed the front k member had a corrosion hole in the back of it, this is the front sub frame that holds the powertrain and front suspension.
In 2016 it was discovered my sub-frame was rusted thru.discovered dodge had a service bullentin not a recall service bulletin # 23-012-14, re: body issue date: may 19, 2014.this bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair.note: this only applies to vehicles in the canadian market and in salt belt states which include connecticut, delaware, illinois, indiana, iowa, maine, maryland, massachusetts, michigan, minnesota, missouri, new hampshire, new jersey, new york, ohio, pennsylvania, rhode island, vermont, washington, d.c., west virginia and wisconsin.dodge only replaced front sub-frame, now rear sub-frames and all along rocker panels is completely rotted, enough that it won't pass pennsylvania state inspection.i've owned vehicles in the past that were older than this caliber & never had the rust & rot issue i do with this vehicle.it is just 10 yrs old!
Common subframe corrosion on low mileage 2007vehicles causing extreme safety issues while driving. Was warned by auto shop that this is common and renders safety issues to driver as entire engine could drop when driving or wheel separation, that could cause severe injury or death. No recall or warranty issued to me. This should be a safety recall as common as it is.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While operating the vehicle, the front suspension and steering wheel suddenly shook and vibrated. In addition, the steering column made a popping noise. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the front section of the subframe experienced severe rust and corrosion. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified and did not assist. The failure mileage was 98,000.
2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 35 mph, cross member and the subframe fractured causing the front drive side tire to fracture and turn inward. Due to the failure, the vehicles steering and driveablity were comprisied. The vehicle was inspected by a mechanic and commented the subframe and the cross member had rust through rendering the vehicle undriveable.i will be contacting doge requesting recall status. Local dodge dealers - service departments contacted, the repair is covered under a "memo" until march, 2017 and unlimited mileage but is not listed as a recall.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that during routine maintenance, it was informed by the independent mechanic that the sub frame had corroded and it was unsafe to drive the vehicle. The engine warning light had illuminated. The vehicle was not repaired. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 125,978.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact noticed that the subframe was rusted. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the subframe needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 160,000.
My husband was driving and i was the passenger. 12/23/15. The car was a 2007 dodge caliber. Approx 80,000 miles on it. No prior accidents. A car turned into driver side. My husband was not hurt. Both cars going approx 10 miles an hour. I was hit with air bag. I received a broken rib, new bridge completely knocked out(or should i say in.). My back, neck, ankle still give me a lot of pain today. My body bruised head to toe. Concussion.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the front end of the vehicle was rusted and repaired per an unknown recall at shapiro chrysler jeep in oswego, ny. Six months later, while driving approximately 25 mph, the vehicle shook and vibrated uncontrollably. The contact replaced all four tires, but the failure recurred. The vehicle was taken to an independent garage, joe brown auto king in zachary, la where it was diagnosed that the rear driver side frame was rusted and fractured. The technician advised not to drive the vehicle. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated that the recall expired. The contact stated that the dealer should have repaired the entire frame during the initial repair. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 140,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the front sub-frame had experienced severe corrosion. The contact stated the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the frame was corroded and needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 85,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 35 mph, a loud abnormal noise emitted underneath the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who stated that the front frame was completely rusted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 111,000.
While in for routine annual inspecton was informed by mechanic that front subframe on vehicle was rusted to the point that it would not pass inspection.was informed that this was a common problem with these and other chrysler vehicles.was also told that the problem was common enough that chrysler had extended the warranty for this repair.contacted local dealership and was told warranty had expired and would not be honored, even though safety was a factor.given that this is a common problem it should be corrected with a recall.
My 2007 dodge caliber's subframe is severely rusted and there's less then 80,000 miles on the car. A car that new should not rust so bad in such a short amount of time. The warranty on the car should be a recall because the subframe is so rusted that it's dangerous and too unsafe to drive anywhere. In addition to the car being a safety hazard, the subframe is very expensive to fix thanks to the amount of time it takes to remove the subframe. With the subframe gone bad, the rusted out subframe also damages attached parts of the car. The struts in the rear and front have gone bad due to the subframe's erosion.
Crossmembers front and rear subframe are rusted through and perforated. Damaging front end parts by instability...car unsafe to drive.car just purchased from unsavory car dealer...
The front cross member on this car has significant corrosion causing a large hole and loss of integrity based on a dealer inspection. It has not actually failed at this time. The estimated repair cost from the dealer is $1209 including $665 for a replacement cross member. The manufacturer has stated to me that this is not covered under warranty because the vehicle was originally sold in canada. I own another 2007 caliber and this same problem was acknowledged to be a defective part.a letter was sent requesting that i take it to the dealer for inspection and possible repair.the dealer recently completed the repair on that vehicle at no cost to me.
Have a 2007 dodge caliber with 90k miles. My wife recently went to get it inspected and come to find out the front and rear crossmembers and subframe components were terribly corroded. Needless to say it was not passed. It's started shaking while driving, alignment is off according to tire wear. I've read tons of complaints and see they issues not a recall but a 10 year extended warranty on this issue. Curious as to when this was issued and if my car falls into that
Front subframe failure due to premature corrosion caused loss of control of vehicle which could have led to an accident involving serious injury or death a sit happened while turning left onto the highway and subsequently the failure cause damage to the front axle
Went to get car inspected and the mechanic found our crossmember frame was rusted out. It is only 5 yrs old and has 63000 miles, unheard of. Next step contact dodge see what they can do to help us get this repaired, right now car is unsafe to drive.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while at an independent mechanic for a routine service, the mechanic diagnosed that thesubframe corroded and both front ball joints needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 110,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 35 mph, the front end of the vehicle fractured and fell to the ground. The contact pulled over to the right side of the road. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence. The vehicle was diagnosed by an independent mechanic as having a faulty subframe/cross member. A dealer was not contacted about the failure. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 9,946.
While getting maintenence done on my car, i was informed by my independent mechanic that my front and rear sub frames have rusted through and the car is no longer safe to drive. This is an existing issue with this make and model and a recall needs to be issued for the many caliber owners experiencing this same issue. Dealerships will not honor the former warranty although safety is at stake.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber and the sub frame is so rusted through that it cracked while my son was driving it.thankfully he was coming home and it happened couple minutes from home.i cannot believe a car, that is only 7 years old, can rust so severely in such a short period of time.i cannot believe dodge has not issued a recall on this.what are they waiting for? are they waiting for enough people to get into accidents and possibly kill somebody, before the recall this manufacture defect?they must have some really good bean counters. When i started looking on the internet, i was shocked to see so many complaints from people with the exact same problem as i am having, and their cars were younger then mine.i was shocked to find out that there have not been any recalls issued for this.
I am contacting you refer to dodge service bulletin 23-012-14. The vehicle has failed inspection. The extended warranty that covers the repair expired . I contacted chrysler to ask for cost assistance in covering this existing problem. The dealership and corporation denied my claim. Case id 33139538. I think it's reasonable for the manufacture to provide assistance in keeping the car road worthy. The vehicle has 161k, the lack of repair would make the vehicle unsafe to drive inevitably ending the useful existence of it.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at low speeds, the contact heard knocking and clunking noises from underneath the vehicle when driving over bumps in the road. The contact took the vehicle to tate chrysler jeep dodge frederick (5629 buckeystown pike, frederick, md 21704, (301) 663-6126) where it was diagnosed that the inner and outer tie rods needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure continued. The manufacturer was not notified. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 170,000.
Front and rear cross members as per x58 and revision x59 rustednotice sent july 14th 2014 to have inspected for rust dealership inspected and found no rust reinspected august 23 2018 rust found dealership stated out of extended warranty x58 no goodwill assistance available cause of extended warranty expiration.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 45 mph, the contact noticed that the anti skid and abs warning lights illuminated without warning. All of the instrument panel lights also illuminated. The contact drove the vehicle to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the front and rear ends of the vehicle needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact spoke with the manufacturer who approved the repairs performed by another dealer. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 140,000. Updated 02/12/16*lj
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the rear of the vehicle veered to the left and right uncontrollably. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the entire under carriage was corroded. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 145,000.
I boughta used dodge caliber off of a friend in 2016. I recently started hearing a weird metal clanking in the front driver's side wheel area. I had been advised a year prior that i would be needing tire rods, struts, and ball joints in the near future. So i took it in the be repaired. After spending over $1000 to get it all repaired. I drove off and the noise was still there. Went back to the shop and after35-40 minutes of rocking the vehicle we were able to recreate the noise and located the noise was coming from the area of the control arm and sub-frame. After further inspection we found the the sub-frame to be rusted through which was causing the metal to pop and crack as it was flexing. I contacted the local dodge service center and they advised there were no recalls in reference to the sub-frame.after checking on line i found that there had in fact been a extended warranty for the sub-frame for my year make and model, but it had expired in 2016. I called chrysler and they were aware of the issue, but would not honor the original "warranty" that they had placed on the same part. Subsequently i also found that they had the same "warranty" issued for the same part for the same make and models from 2008-20012. After research through the internet i found hundreds of vehicle owners like me that have had the same issue with the same results. I was not the original owner and would have not received any notification from chrysler about the issue with the part.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving various speeds, an abnormal noise was observed in the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the subframe failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 88,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 55 mph, there was an abnormal ticking noise. In addition, while exiting the highway the front axle fractured. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the frame and front of the vehicle was rusted. The vehicle was towed to midway dodge (4747 s pulaski rd, chicago, il 60632, (773) 376-8060) where the diagnosis was confirmed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 150,000.
Just filing a complaint about substandard manufacturing of my vehicle cross member parts.substandard material was used and severe corrosion is a result.chrysler has a recall for repair.could pose safety issues if parts rust completely through.
I noticed that my car was making crunching and popping noises when i turned so i took it to my mechanic, who told me that my crossmember underneath the vehicle was severely corroded and needed replaced. And to not drive it unless absolutely necessary.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was undergoing scheduled maintenance, the mechanic informed the contact that the frame was severely rusted and the struts could not be changed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 68,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 40 mph, the subframe fractured on the vehicle. In addition, the contact replaced the tires on three occasions and the rear wheel bearings were replaced three times. Furthermore, the ignition switch caught fire. The contact extinguished the fire. The vehicle was towed and repaired by a dealer and an independent mechanic. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 162,000.
Rear subframe is rotting and unsafe to drive.license mechanic inspected the vehicle.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle showed major corrosion to the undercarriage. The contact stated that while her dad was driving there was a vibration with the vehicle and the rear wheel felt as if was about to detached. The driver noticed underneath the vehicle both cross member were corroded with holes. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer or an independent mechanic and was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and informed the contact that the vin was not part of a recall. No assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 104,000. The consumer submitted photos of the vehicle.
While under my dodge i noticed that there is a large amount of rust. After further inspection i saw that they designed the ac condensation to drip directly onto the frame. This baffles me since all they had too do is design a tube to direct the water onto the ground. I am not sure exactly how this has effected the strength of the frame but from the amount of rust on the spot where the water drips i don't have a warm and fuzzy that the frame will last the life of the car or that the frame won't just snap while driving and cause an accident. Very unsafe practice and with such an easy fix don't understand it at all.
I was changing the oil of my wife 2007 dodge caliber when i looked over and saw that the lower control arm was completely almost completely cracked through the middle portion of it. A day prior my wife mentioned that the car was driving a little weird. This could have been extremely dangerous for my wife and other motorist if it failed on the public roads.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. When the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for an inspection, the technician diagnosed that the subframe under the engine was rusted completely. As a result, the vehicle was unsafe to drive. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated that there was no recall. The failure was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 65,500.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 30-45 mph over a bump in the road, the contact heard an abnormal screeching sound coming from the front of the vehicle. The contact stopped to inspect the vehicle, but there was no physical damage present. The contact was able to safely drive the vehicle to a sibling's home where it was noticed that the engine cradle was severely rusted. The failure caused the front wheels to almost separate from the subframe of the vehicle. Sawyer motors (166 ulster ave, saugerties, ny 12477, (845) 247-5027) was contacted and stated that the vehicle was out of warranty. No assistance would be offered. The manufacturer was informed of the failure and provided case number: 64699050. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 88,000. The consumer provided photos of the defect.
Got the car and bought it used there were really back in 2914 nobody notified me on realms or extended warranty on the underbody rusting out and need it addressed i should of been notified and this fixedit lose and makes clunking noises the whole time i had car i want this matter resolved there should of been a noticed sent to me
Was on my way to work came up to the light at pontiac trail and 10 mile i put on the brakes and there was what sounded like metal scrapping against metal and a loud thump. Later i made it to work on novi road between 10 mile and grand river i looked behind the driver wheel and saw that the k frame is completely rusted through and what i think is a stability bar is being pulled away from the frame. I haven't drove my vehicle in two days because i feel it is unsafe.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. After the vehicle was taken to have a front wheel alignment, the technician informed that the frame of the vehicle was rusted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 170,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 20 mph, the front subframe fractured due to rust. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The technician stated that the subframe and sway bar needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 99,900.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the front and rear of the sub frame was rusted. The vehicle was taken to a private mechanic who confirmed the failure. The manufacturer was notified of the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 100,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that there was an abnormal noise under the front and rear of the vehicle. The contact discovered that the undercarriage was severely rusted. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the rear suspension and the front under carriage needed replacement for rust damage. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 170,000. The vin was not available.
I i have changed multiple times the sway bar links and had to put on new struts twice. There was supposed to be a recall on the cross member bar and when i took it to be fixed the dealer would not honor the recall on the bar.it is now making once again a popping sound in the front drivers side and i am wanting to once again get the recall on the car that was supposed to be fixed before.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that during a routine check-up, it was noticed that the rear subframe of the vehicle was rusted from the inside out. The contact also stated that the engine made a lot of noise. The contact called shottenkirk chrysler jeep dodge at 888-344-9954 (located at 2301 e washington st, mount pleasant, ia 52641) andwas referred to the manufacturer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failures and stated that there was no recall. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 177,000.
Had the car inspected by local mechanic and found the front subframe was rotted.
I have problems with suspension bar front was replaced under a 10 year manufacturing warranty back was rusting but they were unable to touch without a hole the following year i had to pay out of pocket at cunningham chrysler in north east, pa they will have documentation of both.now coil spring on left front side has pieces breaking off they are solid not rusted through and i will have to replace both sides on front this seems to also be a defect car was pulled into driveway no bumps when piece broke off
The vehicle became hard to control. Took it to get looked at to see why. It was found to have a rusted out engine cradle. The mechanic said that the sway bar mount was rusted and gone. The cradle should not have rusted and should have a recall on it. If not to call the manufacturer and see why and if they would replace it. It has also happen to other models of dodge cars and jeeps that use this same part. It is unsafe and may cause an accident. The dealer said they extended the warranty but unfortunately it had expired for our car.they have sent me no notification that it had this warranty or we would have had it fixed before we found out on our own. This warranty should not expire as they had used faulty material and know all about it.
Yesterday i had my car checked for a leak. This was fixed and the mechanic told me that my engine cradle is rusted through. They had me look at the undercarriage and i could not believe what i saw. I take good care of this car, it has always been garage kept with suggested maintenance checks taken. This is also very frustrating to me as i just had my car fixed (new manifold along with valves, gaskets, o-rings, oil change, radiator cap and radiator flushed and re-filled) by a dodge mechanic and was not informed about this. The car was seen at dodge in february (re-checked in march and april) then taken to another mechanic in june. Thankfully i took the car somewhere else or i might have had an accident, malfunction or other issue. How do i get this issue taken care of...it should not have rusted out like it did. Not with the kind of care i give to my cars.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while having maintenance performed, he was notified that the engine cradle was completely corroded. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 85,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the k frame prematurely rusted with extensive corrosion and there was a noise when turning coming from the lower front of the vehicle. The contact stated that there was rust on the wheel frame near the drivers side tire wheel framing as well. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 124,680.
Front sub frame rusted out,found during inspection dodge claims x-58 extended warranty is expired.
I heard a rumbling noise under the car took it to dealer and they said it wasn't safe to drive. Told me my whole rear end was rusted out and i paid $1600 for repairs. Now my car made a noise while my tires were going took it shop they said see a dealer on the way there my car stopped going forward. Good thing i wasn't on the highway. I could back into a parking space semi safely. Both problems in 3 months and my warranty is no more on my transmission.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 35 mph, there was an abnormal clicking noise coming from the front of the vehicle. The contact observed that the subframe was severely corroded. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 117,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was being inspected, severe corrosion on the frame was found. The dealer (central ave chrysler jeep dodge ram, 1839 central park ave, yonkers, ny) confirmed the failure and informed the contact of a warranty extension on the frame that had expired. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified and informed the contact that the vin was not included in any applicable recalls or warranties; therefore, no further assistance would be offered. The failure mileage was approximately 65,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at an unknown speed, the frame of the vehicle fractured. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 87,476.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was undergoing routine maintenance, the contact was informed that there was excessive rust on the rear subframe. The maintenance work could not be safely completed due to the rust. Jim shorkey chrysler dodge jeep ram fiat (located at 13230 us-30, irwin, pa 15642, (412) 872-2400) was notified of the failure. The manufacturer was also notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 279,000.
Where do i start! from day one we have had issues with this car. Cruse control didn't work, brought back to dealer the first week to be fixed. One month later, front speaker went out, another trip to the dealer speaker was replaced. At 34,611 miles, car was stuck in park, would not shift at all. Towed to dealer, replaced stop lamp. At 35,031 miles, front end making loud knocking noise, you guessed it, another trip to dodge, lower control arms replaced. Skipping to january of 2017, car now has 124,000 miles loud crunching sound coming from front driver side. Thought oh, another ball joint needs replacing, which has been replaced in january of 2016, along with more control arms, sway bar link, and struts, about $1200.00 in all. Took this pile of crap to local merlin's shop, showed me the rotted cross member with large holes in it, completely rotted through, back cross member was in bad shape as well. Absolutely disgusted with this car, traded it in for a 2011 chevy and got $ 500.00 which was pretty generous. How could dodge not recall this issue, my wife would drive this 5 days a week 40 miles a day on the highway, lucky she could of been injured or worse, she always said the front end was not right, this has been rusting out for years. I guess safety is not a priority with their customers, they never sent any warning out to have this checked out. I will never ever buy another chrysler/dodge or jeep product.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while the vehicle was inspected, the mechanic noticed that the rear driver's side sub frame was rusted with a hole. The dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufactured was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 136,256.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while having maintenance performed, he was notified that the engine cradle was completely corroded. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 153,000.
The crossmember is rusted and has a huge whole in it.i get regular oil changes at the dodge dealer, with no mention of the crossmember issue.started hearing noise in front end took to mechanic and informed of issue.after some research found 10 year extension of warrenty on this part.went to get replaced and found other suspension issues caused by the severe rust, which they will not cover.vehicle not safe to drive and the cost for us to fix is more than the worth of the car!!at this point have no trade in value for car...
I washed my car for the first time and that is when i noticed my cars frame is rusted out. There is a big hole in the middle of my frame that is near the motor. I have to drive it and it sounds like it's going to break in half. It is worst when i hit a bump in the road, like speed bumps. My car has 106k miles the body has little to no rust. I've owned it only a few months.
-the contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact was driving 40 mph and the road conditions were dry.the contact heard a loud rumbling sound thatwas piercing to the ears.the sound was loud enough to give the contact a headache. The dealer test drove the vehicle and diagnosed a pressurization problem. This incident occurredwhen the rear windowswere down and the front windowswere up. The dealeradvised her that the design of the vehicle may have something to do with the loud noise, and advised her, if the rear windowsweredown the front windows should also be down to eliminate the noise.
Started hearing a loud banging noise whenever i would hit a bump or turn left coming from drivers side tire. After getting home, i checked and the entire subframe is rusted out.
After owning my new car for a few days, i decided to roll the back windows down for my children.the car makes a horrible noise, like a helicopter directly overhead.it leaves you with a piercing pain in your ears and a headache.if you leave them down for more than a couple of seconds, you have a thump that last inside your ear for a couple of days.the road conditions don't seem to matter, it has to be in the design of the car.
The car is in motion. The cv axle pulled out because of the rusted sub frame. The car has 137,000 miles on it and the rest of the car is not rusty. This is a safety issue and my girlfriend could've been hurt. She has kids that could've been hurt if they were in the car. This should be a recall issue. Reimbursement or a portion of my $1300 would be greatly appreciated back.
My 2007 caliber is parked i will not drive it because the frame is rusted out so bad it is not safe for me and my kids. My mechanic told me to not drive. This car is not even 10 years old it definitely should not be rusted like that! very disappointing.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that there was a premature failure with the cross member being completed rusted without warning. The dealer was notified of the failure and the contact was to check with the manufacturer to determine if they had a service campaign or a manufacturer recall to address the repair. The vin and failure mileage were not available.
My caliber only has 56271 miles on it. Was in for an oil change to day and was advised "front sib-frame very rusty and has several holes in frame ". Was told it will cost about $800.00.i think i should have been advised of a issue on this. Lot of the reports i have read about this, the cars had a lot more miles on this issue.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for an unrelated repair when he noticed that the entire sub frame was completely corroded. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 88,595.
My 2007 dodge caliber was taken to my mechanic where it was found that the main subframe had rusted through in multiple places. The car is only 6 years old and has approximately 76,150 miles. I called chrysler and mentioned it. Customer service stated that they would only provide cost assistance if i had the work done at a chrysler dealership. The car was taken apart and on the lift at my preferred mechanic. I had my mechanic provide the service. I did receive a quote from a local chrysler dealership it would have cost me $ 850.00. My mechanic did the service for $ 650.00. Chrysler has refused payment. This subframe components is rusted through in three locations. After only 6 years, this doesn't seem acceptable on a major front end component.
While driving my son heard an abnormal noise (squeaking and clunking) was coming from under the car by the driver side wheel.upon investigating when we grabbed the stabilizer arm on the right side it had significant movement.we grabbed the left side for comparison and it did not move.we followed the stabilizer bar and found that the point where the bushing attaches to the subframehad cracked off.while looking at the subframe closer it has significant corrosion/rust (a lot more than a vehicle with 120k miles should have).we contacted chrysler and they were willing to "warranty" (even though it is outside the warranty period) the front and back subframe however they would not cover any parts that attached to the subframe.we were told that if any bolts/parts that broke were our responsibility which could cost up to $2000 which is half the value of the car.so with chrysler covering the subframe pieces and labor (estimated $1000) technically the vehicle is totaled (combined total repair costs $3000 on a car worth $4000)....and now an 18 year old kid no longer has a car. The rest of the car is in great shape and should have easily gone another 80k miles at a minimum.such a shame to scrap/part out a vehicle at 120k miles for a manufacturing/quality deficiency.
I would like to report a defect with my 2007 dodge caiber.the inside handle on the drivers side door peeled away the outer layer. As i had my hand on the handle i cut myself. Since it wasn't under warranty any more i had to pay for a new handle. I didn't think it was right since i think it is a defect.
The hinges fail on driver and passengers side the door will not shut gets stuck wide open if force shut cause you have no tools to pry bottom hinge back in place it causes a huge dent in front fender... There are a huge amount of owners complaining of this issue online so i think it's a big flaw! i have since replaced mine with used one's and do expect to have to do it again due to the design of the hinges... If this happens to your door it will not close completely if you manage to get it to closing point because the door latch will no longer line up properly... Safety issues my door opened on me going down the road on my way home with it going around a corner...thank god i had my seat belt on... Some links to more complaints..http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caliber/284660-door-hinge-problem.html http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091111084343aaihadthttp://caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=35636http://www.qfak.com/cars_transportation/maintenance_repair/?id=208841#.uxj4h38o4v4and many more....
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the accelerator pedal became stuck causing an unintended acceleration. The contact also stated that the front driver side door handle and locking mechanism fractured and the door could not be secured. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed that the door hinge needed to be replaced. No further information was available on the conditions of the vehicle. The initial failure was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failures. The failure mileage was 55,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 25 mph, the contact heard an abnormal noise. The contact parked the vehicle, inspected the undercarriage, and noticed rust from the front to the back of the subframe. The contact called lowery bros. Chrysler-jeep, inc. At (315) 472-7844 (647 w genesee st, syracuse, ny 13204), but the vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer informed the contact that the vin was not included in a recall. The failure mileage was 116,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at any speed, the vehicle would veer to the left lane when the steering wheel was released. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the rear cross member was compromised due to rust perforation. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 101,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was being inspected, severe corrosion on the frame was found. The dealer (central ave chrysler jeep dodge ram, 1839 central park ave, yonkers, ny) confirmed the failure and informed the contact of a warranty extension on the frame that had expired. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified and informed the contact that the vin was not included in any applicable recalls or warranties; therefore, no further assistance would be offered. The failure mileage was approximately 65,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While attempting to have routine maintenance performed on the vehicle, the contact was informed by the independent mechanic that the cross members were completely rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 175,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 5 mph, the contact heard a loud noise near the front of the vehicle. The contact parked the vehicle and discovered that the entire subframe had excessive rust and fractures. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the subframe had excessive rust and fractures and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 72,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while the vehicle being serviced, the technician discovered that the front section of the sub frame was corroded and rusted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 94,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While having the front wheel aligned at an independent mechanic, the contact was informed that the front cross members were severely rusted and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 130,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. Upon an independent mechanic inspecting the vehicle, it was diagnosed that the front and rear cross members had extensive rust and needed to be replaced. Lilliston chrysler dodge jeep ram (1501 n 2nd st #47, millville, nj 08332, (856) 825-1937) diagnosed that the front and rear cross members needed to be replaced. The manufacturer's extended warranty campaign (x69) expired in november of 2016; therefore, the vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and confirmed the warranty expiration. The contact was advised to have the dealer repair the vehicle. The vin was not available. The approximate failure mileage was 151,909.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving various speeds, there was a bouncing noise underneath the front driver side subframe. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the crossmember was corroded through with cracks. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact called dick scott dodge chrysler (684 ann arbor rd, plymouth, mi 48170, phone number: (734) 451-2110) and was informed that the manufacturer was aware of the crossmember corrosion and was to call dodge customer care and ask about the x58 crossmember issue. The manufacturer was contacted and informed the contact that they would get back to her in one or two business days. The approximate failure mileage was 210,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber rt. The contact stated that the rear and front sub frames were completely corroded. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and the technician diagnosed that the sub frames needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 61,000.updated 01/14/14*ljthe consumer stated the front and rear sub frame was severely rusted. The consumer has since traded the vehicle. Updated 01/16/14
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for routine service and they detected the entire frame was completely rusted with numerous perforations. The manufacturer was not notified of the problem. The vehicle had not been repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 58,000. Updated 4/1/13
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. When the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for an inspection, the technician diagnosed that the subframe under the engine was rusted completely. As a result, the vehicle was unsafe to drive. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated that there was no recall. The failure was not repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 65,500.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the front end of the vehicle was rusted and detached from the vehicle while driving approximately 5 mph. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the front end frame was replaced, but the failure occurred on the rear of the vehicle as it began to rust from the inside out. The rusted frame caused the vehicle's tires to lean outwards. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the vehicle was unsafe to drive. No warning lights illuminated. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failures. The vin and failure mileage were unknown.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was undergoing an inspection, the technician noticed that the front crossmember underneath the vehicle was corroded and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 86,601.updated 05/10/16*ljthe consumer stated the vehicle was repaired under warranty. Updated 12/11/2017
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 30 mph, cross member and the subframe fractured causing the front passenger side tire to fracture and turn inward. Due to the failure, the fender and the door were rubbing on the bottom each time the door was opened and closed on the front passenger side. The contact further inspected the vehicle and noticed that the subframe and the cross member was full of rust and corrosion. The vehicle was not able to be driven. The vehicle was not inspected or diagnosed. The failure was reported to the manufacturer. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 35 mph, the vehicle started to shake, the rear of the vehicle dropped, and an abnormal noise was heard. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The contact stated that the vehicle could not be driven and had it towed to an independent mechanic. The independent mechanic diagnosed that the frame became detached. The contact then towed the vehicle to the dealer (hancock county chrysler dodge jeep ram, 845 washington, newell, wv 26050, (304)-387-3100) where it was determined that the vehicle could not be repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, but no further action was taken. The failure mileage was 70,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that he was concerned that the rear lower sub frame could fail due to a failure that the previous owner experienced. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who confirmed that the sub frame was rusted and corroded. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 78,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While having an oil change performed, the technician notified the contact that the rear subframe was rusted and deteriorating. The technician stated that the rear subframe needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 150,000.
My sub frame was crumbling the mechanic said !i brought it in tothe mechanics garage,for noise in front endmechanic says the sub frame is eaten away so unsafe to drive he wouldn't let me take the car,he couldn't believe it didn't fall apart while i was driving it ..what ! i take care of my car i had no idea ,this should not have happened this car is not old !
The engine cradle will not pass pa safety inspection due to severe rust and holes in this portion of what could be also called the sub-frame. This is a very pre-mature failure and all caliber owners should be aware. Who would ever think to look at a potential frame failure in a 5 year old car? i had owned this car 1 day short of 5 years since brand new when this issue was discovered.
I was slowing down to stop at an intersection and heard a thump on the bottom of the car.as i started to pull forward the steering was very difficult and the i heard a whining sound from the right front tire.i was about a mile from my repair shop so i had my brother follow me with his emergency flashers and drove slowly to the shop where i found out that the subframe was completely rotted through.in the last year, i have had to replace upper and lower control armsand the alternator.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at 40 mph, there was an abnormal noise that came from the undercarriage. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the subframe and sway bar needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 138,000.
My cars tie rods are going out, already happened once on one side and now its going out on the other, because i can feel it, this is a huge problem bc i am scared to drive my car because i have a four year old lil boy, i need this problem fixed before it falls apart and either of us die then there will be a lawsuit because my car only has 57,565 miles on it and shouldn't already going out on me, the first time they went out dodge did pay for it in full. But now it is going out on the other side so i am asking for help or for u to pay for it again since it is a defected part, thanks
The contact's daughter owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that upon his daughter taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic, she was informed that the engine cradle had began to rust underneath the subframe. Due to the failure, several holes were formed within the engine cradle. The contact then notified the manufacturer of the failure and was informed that the vehicle was never added to the manufacturer recall list for the failure. The manufacturer offered no further assistance. The dealer had yet to be notified of the failure. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 30 mph, a noise was heard under the rear and front of the vehicle. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that there was rust on the subframe, which damaged the rack and pinion. The contact was informed that the vehicle was unsafe to drive. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was approximately 106,070.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While reversing out of the parking lot, the contact noticed an abnormal noise under the vehicle. The contact immediately took the vehicle to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the subframe had a lot of corrosion and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer (terry henricks chrysler dodge jeep ram, 1935 s defiance st, archbold, oh 43502, (419) 445-2576) was contacted and stated that the vin was not included in a recall. The contact mentioned that the ball joints were replaced five times by an independent mechanic at 30,000 miles. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failures. The failure mileage was approximately 100,011.
5 y/r car with completely rusted sub-frame which needs replaced.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 20 mph, the contact heard an unusual noise coming from the front of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the front driver and passenger side undercarriage had excessive rust and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 140,000.
Sub frame is rusted due to air conditioning hose running over subframe. Subframe holds engine in place.
Upon hitting a small pothole, the subframe broke causing a loss of steering into oncoming traffic. Luckily there were no accidents. The tires now go two separate directions. After getting the vehicle towed to a repair shop, they discovered the subframe had rusted through due to the air compressor leaking directly onto the subframe. When having our insurance adjuster from state farm out to assess the damage it was determined it was manufacturer's defect and would not be covered. I then contacted dodge who stated that the perforation for rusting was 100,000 miles. Although the incident on the vehicle we are still paying for through an authorized dodge dealer happened on a vehicle that has exceeding the 100,000 miles by only 10,000 miles - we are now stuck with a car that's going to cost over $1,100 to fix due to a manufacturer's defect. This incident could've resulted in a fatality. Dodge needs to be held liable for this issue.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 30 mph, an abnormal noise was heard underneath the vehicle coming from the rear driver's side wheel. In addition, the steering wheel vibrated. The contact drove the vehicle home. The contact was able to inspect the vehicle and noticed rust on the crossmember. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer for diagnostic testing or repairs. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 131,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was being repaired per an unspecified failure by an independent mechanic, the contact was informed that the undercarriage was rusted and could not be repaired. The dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 180,000. Consumer stated spoke with corporate about undercarriage ( about 4 months past extended warranty expiration) approved repair. Took it to the repair shop but the shop did not have any notes from corporate. On 12/18 driverside ball - joint rusted and snapped, had towed to dealership. Contacted corporate 4 times but no response.consumer also has issues with both front door hinges rusted out, back doors are starting too, they're difficult to close at half way shut.
I noticed a periodic clunking sound coming from underneath. Upon inspection by the dealer, the k-bar or k-frame, which is the part that holds the front suspension together, was found to have completely rusted through. It is completely rotten. Chrysler was contacted and will not help with thus $1400 repair. The vehicle has only 64000 miles on it. I have never had to replace this part in any vehicle i have ever owned. This is a serious safety issue.
I was told by meineke that my engine's subframe was so corroded that the car was unsafe to drive.the mechanic told me that it was very unusual for a car this young to have a corroded subframe.i learned from online research that corroded subframes are a frequent complaint with dodge calibers, possibly because of the placement of the air conditioning unit.there was no recall.i immediately replaced the subframe at a cost of approximately $1,000.
No accidentthe tech told me that the caliber is notorious for having a horrible suspension system because the car is too heavy for the frame.replaced lower control arm bars, struts should have been replaced at 36,000 miles, replaced inner and outer tie rod ends, twice within 1/1/2 year, struts still bad.the vehicle is a accident waiting to happen.chrysler just keeps ignoring these issues.said they are going to extended the warranty only on the crossmembers, however that part directly relates to the3 lower control arm bars and i already replace.http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/dodge_caliber.html.
The sub-frame on my caliber is rusted out. This is only 6 yrs old, and dodge say there is no warranty.there will be fatalities if this is not corrected on these vehicles.
Sub frame rusted out.
The front end makes all kinds of noises. Locks dont work cant open trunk.head lights work when they want to.
Rusting through on front subframe cross member stationary
Premature upper and lower ball joint failure. Parts are plastic and cannot be maintained. Wheels travel and very hard to control. Almost created an accident when passing. Car jumped to one side (pulled severely). This model needs to be recalled. Check all the websites out there with complaints about this problem. Some cars it is failing as early as 18,000 miles.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact heard a grinding noise at the front end of the vehicle while driving various speeds.the vehicle was taken to the dealer several times for the failure. The dealer performed a diagnostic and test drove the vehicle. The failure was located at the front ball joint, the tie rod end and the lower control arm. The dealer replaced the front ball joint, tie rod end, lower control arm and the front tires. The manufacturer assisted with the tire replacement cost.the failure mileage was 27,000 and the current mileage was 28,000.
While under my dodge i noticed that there is a large amount of rust. After further inspection i saw that they designed the ac condensation to drip directly onto the frame. This baffles me since all they had too do is design a tube to direct the water onto the ground. I am not sure exactly how this has effected the strength of the frame but from the amount of rust on the spot where the water drips i don't have a warm and fuzzy that the frame will last the life of the car or that the frame won't just snap while driving and cause an accident. Very unsafe practice and with such an easy fix don't understand it at all.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber and the sub frame is so rusted through that it cracked while my son was driving it.thankfully he was coming home and it happened couple minutes from home.i cannot believe a car, that is only 7 years old, can rust so severely in such a short period of time.i cannot believe dodge has not issued a recall on this.what are they waiting for? are they waiting for enough people to get into accidents and possibly kill somebody, before the recall this manufacture defect?they must have some really good bean counters. When i started looking on the internet, i was shocked to see so many complaints from people with the exact same problem as i am having, and their cars were younger then mine.i was shocked to find out that there have not been any recalls issued for this.
The car would not steer with any controllability. Upon 2 different independent mechanic inspections we discovered the lower ball joint was so worn/loose if i had continued to drive i could easily have lost a tire. The entire underframe is corroded and i was told it would have to be replaced soon or it would also become a safety hazard in the near future. Dodge has to be aware of this problem because after conducting some research on my own i have found hundreds of 2007 caliber owners with almost identical issues to mine. Hoping no one gets hurt before they realize what a serious risk this type of low quality manufacturing is...
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.during a failed inspection, the contact stated that the engine light illuminated on the instrument panel of the vehicle.also, the vehicle would wobble while driving at normal speeds.a local mechanic diagnosed the vehicle as needing new struts.neither the dealer nor the manufacturer were notified of the defect.the vehicle was not repaired.the failure and current mileage was 98,401.
At 47,000 miles had a 800.00 repair to the lower control arm both sides.also replaced the outer tie rods and new tires, front end alignment.just under 2 years since this was done another unsuspecting incident with the suspension, wheels shimming at 40mph.called chrysler, and they stated no recall on my vehicle, however the mechanic that checked the tires said his wife had her vehicle recalled for similar breakdowns.my point all of this started at 47,000 miles.if my tire rods break or some other incident with the suspension i could have a major or fatal accident if i lose control on the freeway.-suspension on these vehicles is very unsafe as is the chrysler neon.need verification also if there was a silent recall on this, meaning they only paid when asked.they admitted the problem on the first incident and paid 400.00 as a good will gesture.the vehicle's suspension is just plain sloppy any way you look at it.
2007 dodge caliber.consumer requests reimbursement for defective door recall.the consumer stated on august 15, 2007, she took her vehicle to the dealer to have the regular maintenance performed and at that time, the dealer had the opportunity to check for recalls, but they didn't. On august 26, 2007, the consumer was involved in an accident, which resulted in the left rear passenger door being damaged, when the vehicle failed to stop after applying the brake. The consumer stated when she attempted to apply the brake, it kicked back and delayed her stopping. Also, the vehicle was displaying a pull and the tires were wearing quickly.
At 50,00 miles i was told by the mechanic during an oil change that the vehicles ball joints could fail without warning. I had the ball joints replaced at 50,000 miles and then again at 75,000 miles. At 80,000 miles i also have to replace inner and outer tie rods, control arm bearings, and suspension tie bar links, and struts.dodge customer service has stated there is a "unresolved" issue. The suspension issues could result in an accident when traveling at highway speeds if the suspension fails.
I purchased the car in december 2011 with the front struts needing to be replaced. The day i bought it, the electrical throttle system light came on and it shook violently and shut off. I waited a few minutes and it started back up. After replacing the struts, and the tire rod ends, the car was fine.by august 2012, the ball joints and tire rod ends needed to be replaced again, and this time the control arm, so i replaced them.in november 2012, i replaced the battery and alternator. In february 2013, the car began shutting off as i would accelerate, making the creaking and rattling noises near the front tires, and the steering wheel would shake and the wheels would sound like they would come off as i would brake from highway speeds.so i took the car to the shop, and once again, the ball joints, tire rod ends, crank shaft, spark plugs, coil pack, oil sensor and a few other things.my check engine light is back on, and it reads gascap, so i replaced it, and two weeks later it is still on. And here it is march 14, 2013 i am hearing the creaking and rattling noises again, and the wobbling sound of the tires and shaking of the steering wheel when i break. Just this morning on my way taking my kids to school, pulling away from a stop light, the car was cutting off.this car is not safe, and i have children.i cannot afford to keep shelling out 1,000 dollars to fix this car every month or every few months.what can be done about this????
The first indication of the problem was as i was driving at higher speeds (above 50 mph). I noticed a definite shaking which i took to mean that the tires were not balanced properly. I had the vehicle checked and was told that the front ball joints, control arms and tie rods were worn out. I replaced these parts and the tires as they had begun to wear badly. I am now about to replace the same parts for the fourth time! there are also major problems with the rear suspension. I am replacing the rear control arms and lateral links for the third time! i drive a lot and at first put the problem down to the number of miles i drive. The vehicle is now at approximately 211,000 miles, but this is ridiculous! the last time the front suspension wore out, the right front wheel nearly fell off!the vehicle began to shake severely and as i was a mile or two to my destination, i slowed to a crawl and when i arrived i was nearly sick when i saw how bad it was. Now the front and the rear are bad at the same time. Help me out please! i'm at my wits end as i still owe someone money i had to borrow the last time i needed this fixed. I really don't want a car payment now as my wife lost her job recently.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliper. The contact stated that the front ball joints failed, causing the front end of the vehicle to bounce when being driven. The contact stated that the front tie rods were replaced a year prior to the most recent failure. The failure mileage was 38,000 and the current mileage was 42,000.
When doing a brake job i noticed the front k member had a corrosion hole in the back of it, this is the front sub frame that holds the powertrain and front suspension.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the rear of the vehicle veered to the left and right uncontrollably. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the entire under carriage was corroded. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 145,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact statedwhile driving at 30 mph, there was an abnormal rattle coming from the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to a local repair facility where the front passenger side ball joints and tie rod were replaced. The failure recurred but on the driver side. The contact was able to secure a future appointment with the dealer for further diagnostic testing. The manufacturer would not provide any assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 41,000 and the current mileage was approximately 41,200. Updated 9/22/10 the consumer stated the left front control arm and bushings were replaced.updated 09/24/10
Front lower ball joints are completely shot.found this out when i got tires fixes- car only has 52,000 miles- i am a very good driver making sure that i watch out for all road conditions.
Vehicle taken in for tire rotation.located excessive wear in lower ball joints,tierod ends and control arm bushings.many entries on internet of others with same vintage calibers finding same prob with premature wear. Failure of any of the above components.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the cross members on the vehicle had rusted through. The contact stated that the steering wheel would shake while driving at 50 mph or over. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was determined that the cross members needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired. The failure mileage was 87,000.
When i was driving in town at speeds around 25-40 mph i kept hearing a clicking noise beneath the drivers seat, especially when i made turns.i took it to a shop and they lifted it up.turns out the entire suspension carriage was rusting and rotting.the clicking noise i was hearing was rusty pieces of metal rubbing against one another.we took it to a dealership and they said that the ac condensate line was directed to the subframe/undercarriage of the caliber.the water was pooling and causing it to rust.i'm grateful we found out about it when we did instead of having the whole bottom of the car fall out from under us when we were going at a high speed.this seems to be happening to many of the dodge calibers right around 7 years.we have photos of the damage.unbelievable.
Front end started clunking at approx 57,000 miles. Had checked and replaced tie rod ends and ball joints.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated while driving through a large puddle of water at low speeds, the wheels locked. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing and they advised him that they were unable to reenact the failure since there was no water to drive through. After the failure occurred the vehicle stalled on an intermittent basis while driving at various speeds. The manufacturer was contacted and they offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 60,000. The current mileage was approximately 66,000.
May 2011 heard a clunking noise.48000 miles on 2007 dodge caliber. Had it checked out and ball joint and control arm needed replaced and 4 new tires that were worn from the vehicle alignment caused from these issues. Now march 2012, we had issues with squeaking noise on left side and had it checked out. Hot burning smell noticed and had broken coil spring and strut that we're causing wear on tire. We will never by a dodge again!
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while at an independent mechanic for a routine service, the mechanic diagnosed that thesubframe corroded and both front ball joints needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 110,000.
The car would not start (lights worked, but engine would not turn over).after replacing the throttle cable and box, as well as some broken wiring, the car still would not start.the mechanic then towed the vehicle to a dodge dealership, where the computer was reset.the car ran for another week after it was first "fixed," and then again did not start (same problem as before).additionally, the light to indicate that the air bags were not functioning turned on prior to the vehicle not starting.this is more frustrating because we have had extensive issues with this car (replaced all tie rods, bushings, control arms, have a broken door from the hinge breaking, and had multiple tires wearing unevenly due to the car's suspension problems) already, and have sunk well over $6000 in repairs this year alone.
Woke up to a flat tire. While placing on the spare i realized that all four tires were dangerously low on each of their inner tread. Alignment? maybe however was aligned 7 months ago. Tire tread is within safe limits on the outer side. Have complained for years to the dealer that the suspension squeaks and was told need new wheel bearings, at approx. 35,000 miles. The suspension has been an issue about a year after we bought it. Of course while under warranty nothing was replaced or fixed. Now out of warranty we will have to have someone figure out the problem and fix for who knows how much money. My complaint steams from having suspension issues within the first two years of owning this car. How does this happen? i have seen many posts on online forums with the same problem but dodge doesn't care or willing to fix their mistake? while we have driven it to over 100,000 miles the suspension issues have been there for years and no dealer ever fixed anything? no recall? it now is unsafe to drive and will cost us an arm and leg to fix whatever dodge didn't care to put research into building properly the first time.
In the midst of me driving across the intersection... My car began to shake uncontrollably... I had to get of the road because my wheel on the driver's side was disconnected from they entire car... Due to sever corrosion, yu under vehicle.. When i saw photos... I was terrifed!! my life was on jeopardy.. The first day i purchased this vehicle... I am sending photos to help support my claims..
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was being serviced, the mechanic noticed that the rear trailing arm bushing was stuck to the suspension. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 89,000. The vin was not available.
Feels like the car is going to hit a corner or bump and the whole front and tires are gonna come off. Also the gas cap light keeps coming on followed by the engine light. For some reason my gas cap keeps opening itself like there is air or pressure literally unscrewing it. The gas cap happens when parked
Got the car and bought it used there were really back in 2914 nobody notified me on realms or extended warranty on the underbody rusting out and need it addressed i should of been notified and this fixedit lose and makes clunking noises the whole time i had car i want this matter resolved there should of been a noticed sent to me
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for routine maintenance when the technician detected that the front brake rotors exhibited severe rust and corrosion. The shims, front brakes and rotors were replaced. In addition, the inner tie rods loosened from the steering rack and the front control arm bushing separated. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the defect. The failure mileage was 23,167. Updated 06/05/12*lj the consumer stated that chrysler has since repaired the vehicle. Updated 06/06/12
My sisters 2007 dodge caliber only has only 32236 miles on it and the ball joints need replaced already, it cost 800 dollars to replace them, i looked on line and everybody that has a 2007 caliber is having the same problem there should be a recall on the ball joints, just look on line and u will see how many people are having trouble with the ball joints, how many complaints does it take to have a recall done, thank you for your time, please just e mail me back thank you.
Problem with front struts the steering wheel as well . The whole front end moves horrible
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at various speeds, the vehicle made an abnormal noise in the front end. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the driver and passenger side ball joints and control arms failed and needed to be repaired. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. While driving at various speeds, the windshield wipers would independently activate. While driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the alternator failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. While attempting to start the vehicle, it failed to start. The contact stated that the electronic throttle control warning indicator would illuminate on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.
I have a dodge 2007 caliber sxt 2.0 l bought from dealer in may 2011 has approx. 57,250 miles on it.i have replaced two front tires only to find out lower ball joints/control arms and tie rod ends need replacing.at 57k miles?!that's absurd and if you look on autobeef.com it is an ongoing/recurring issue with this make and model.dodge will refuse to do anything about it and will not accept responsibility for this problem.something must be done, i will fight until my voice is heard, this is a major safety hazard and something needs to be done about it.if anyone cares please help me with my fight against dodge/chrysler.they need to take ownership.
Vehicle front sub frame rusted through with holes and excessive rusted components in rear suspension components. Cause. Excessive corrosion due to normal exposure to environment and normal driving conditions. My vehicle was excluded from a recall. The vehicle was built with the same parts as the vehicles that got covered by the existing recall. And has identical corrosion failures as the vehicles included in the recall. I have already replaced engine oil pan that rusted and was leaking. Transmission oil pan replaced. Rusted and was leaking.
My 2007 dodge caliber was diagnosed by an authorized service center to have a corroded engine cradle and a broken sway bar bracket. The car was deemed unsafe to drive by the servicing center, and i was given an estimate of $731 to repair it.at the time of the diagnosis, the car was only 7 years old with 75,825 miles on it. I contacted dodge to see if they would offer any assistance, and i explained that i found it completely unacceptable that the frame of my vehicle had rusted through to the point that it was unsafe to drive the vehicle. Dodge customer service contacted the service center to verify the diagnosis and confirmed that they had told me the car was unsafe to drive. However, customer service offered no assistance and told me that they were unable to do anything because the car was outside of it's 3 year warranty and i "didn't fit the parameters" for them to be able to help me. An engine cradle that has completely corroded after just 75,000 miles is a serious safety hazard and, in my opinion, also indicative of a serious manufacturing defect, yet both the dealership and dodge refused to do anything to rectify the situation.
So , the car i purchased on aug.2nd, of this year... Has many issues! first of all about 2 weeks into having the vehicle... I needed exhaust work done... Shortly after that.. I began experiencing some pulling to the right when i touched the break pedal, now i'm experiencing some weird situation under the front of the car. Which in fact is causing the car to shake and now when i tap the break to stop the vehicle theirs a loud noise and when i give it gas.. It shreeks! it's very terrifying to say the least... I was unable to drive it back to my residence... I'm unable to drive this vehicle at all
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that there was a premature failure with the cross member being completed rusted without warning. The dealer was notified of the failure and the contact was to check with the manufacturer to determine if they had a service campaign or a manufacturer recall to address the repair. The vin and failure mileage were not available.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 30 mph, an abnormal crunching noise was heard.additionally, while having the vehicle serviced, the contact was notified that the engine cradle/cross member was rusted. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer (bryden motors, 548 broad st beloit, wi 53511) where it was diagnosed that the cross member needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was notified of the issue and opened case number: 32546272. The contact was informed that the vehicle was no longer covered under the extended warranty. No further assistance was offered. The failure mileage was 98,000.
Was driving my car on a back road with children in the car when i heard a loud pop and the car started vibrating violently. Pulled over and saw that the rear passenger tier was leaning into the wheel well. The car was moving. I believe that the rear chassis rusted and caused a dangerous situation.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was driving 35 mph and traveled over a road bump when the front of the vehicle exhibited an abnormal grinding noise. The contact stated that no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer or a mechanic for inspection. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 56,000.
I had to have the whole front end of the vehicle replaced at about 36,000 miles, tie rod ends, ball joints, and lower control arms. Now only 1.5 years later (at 53,000 miles) one of the control arms is bad again. I'm not sure why all of these parts have such a high failure rate but from doing research on the internet and talking to other caliber owners this seems to be a very widespread problem that is happening at very low mileage. Eventually somebody is going to get hurt driving one of these things when the steering goes out. I have talked to chrysler people about the problem but they of course don't want to admit any fault and instead imply that you may have caused the problem yourself due to your driving habits.
Upon driving home from work in february of 2015, i noticed a horrible nose coming from the front of my car. As the days progressed, the nose had become worse. I had assumed there was a problem with the struts and had them replaced right away. My father in law, a mechanic, saw that the front sub frame cross member is completely rusted out. I was then told by several mechanics that the car is unsafe to drive due to the amount rust on the sub frame and the high risk of the cross member breaking thus causing an accident. After much research, it has come to my knowledge that this is a manufacturers problem and nothing has ever been done about it. The a/c unit is located right above the cross member. This unit is leaking water onto the sub frame thus causing the part to rust.
My cars tie rods are going out, already happened once on one side and now its going out on the other, because i can feel it, this is a huge problem bc i am scared to drive my car because i have a four year old lil boy, i need this problem fixed before it falls apart and either of us die then there will be a lawsuit because my car only has 57,565 miles on it and shouldn't already going out on me, the first time they went out dodge did pay for it in full. But now it is going out on the other side so i am asking for help or for u to pay for it again since it is a defected part, thanks
I have replaced both front struts both sway bar links passengers side front lower control arm and bushings (ball joints) still here something hitting and while driving the car goes where it wants in steering goes into other lanes to oncoming vehicles have to pull back onto my lane like it looses steering
At less than 10 miles per hour the rear suspension failed while turning on to a public highway. The drivers side wheel on the back is ready to fall off it is laying against the coil spring. The car is no longer drivable. This is all within close proximity to the fuel tank also and in my opinion could be a puncture risk also. The car has 106779 miles on it ,one owner with no collision repairs ever performed and no undercarriage damage ever.chrysler is performing repairs on select vehicles with the same problem but refuse to repair this one. Had this failure occurred at highway speed it is possible the results could have been catastrophic. This vehicle is less than 9 years old and has seen very little winter weather and has never been in a salt air environment. I see no difference in this problem and the one associated with toyotas truck frames of several years ago. Please help before someone dies from this problem.
Upon hitting a small pothole, the subframe broke causing a loss of steering into oncoming traffic. Luckily there were no accidents. The tires now go two separate directions. After getting the vehicle towed to a repair shop, they discovered the subframe had rusted through due to the air compressor leaking directly onto the subframe. When having our insurance adjuster from state farm out to assess the damage it was determined it was manufacturer's defect and would not be covered. I then contacted dodge who stated that the perforation for rusting was 100,000 miles. Although the incident on the vehicle we are still paying for through an authorized dodge dealer happened on a vehicle that has exceeding the 100,000 miles by only 10,000 miles - we are now stuck with a car that's going to cost over $1,100 to fix due to a manufacturer's defect. This incident could've resulted in a fatality. Dodge needs to be held liable for this issue.
Reversed out of parking spot put car in drive and nothing happened.turns out my tie rod and ball joints on passenger side basically fell apart.garage said other side is just about ready to go too.thankfully i was only pulling out of a parking spot...5 minutes later and i could have been wrapped around a telephone pole.been looking online to find many people also have had this problem.this should really be looked into further!
My 2007 dodge caliber recently started making a clunking noise on the front when going over speed bumps and things like that. I took it to a shop and am being told the ball joints are bad and i have to replace control arms along with ball joints because they are attached to each other. I only have 45000 miles on the car this is outrageous. I hope my extended warranty will cover the repair. I am just glad that my wife was not in the car with our baby when the ball joints failed and got them into a serious wreck. It is too bad that things like that have to happen hundreds or thousands of times before a recall is done. This requires a recall! manufacturer defect!
I have a 2007 dodge caliber rt. This car has 52000 miles at 7 years old. My car sits in a garage and is well maintained. I recently replaced the tires on the car and found that both ball joints were in need of replacing to the point that the tires couldn't get balanced. I don't think that this is supposed to happen on a car with 52000 miles.
My husband and i purchased the car in 2007 and it had about 40,000 miles on it.about 1.5 years later we had to do the suspension and shortly after, the ball joints.the mechanic that looked at the car said everything on the car went bad way too fast.when we called dodge, they said there were no recalls on the car, but surprise, we now have to get the front done again!!!!i have seen this and numerous other sites that also have complaints about this car.i emailed and will call back dodge tonight.if nothing is done i will go to the local media to have them help with this.something has to be done before someone gets hurt.
Engine cradle completely rusted. Car is not driveable. Took the car in for service due to extremely bad noise. Was shown condition of engine cradle and bad struts due to engine cradle completely rusted.
Rear sub frame rotted cause vehicle to almosttip over
I started to notice a noise coming from the back end of the car. We took the car to chrsyler/dodge dealer & was told that we have to replace the following:rear hubs, the right & left lower control arms & replace the tires. We had just brought new tires in november 2010 for the winter & now they have to be replace again.chrysler is putting my life, my husband & mother's life line on the line. Why is it that when they had the may 2007 recall,this problem was not included and why are they getting away with murder by putting our lives in jeopardy. I thought i purchased a car that would kept me safe. The estimated cost they quoted us $1800.00. Chrysler/dodge should be ashame of themselves. Is profit more important to them than our lives. The car is worthless & can't afford to trade it in either.
We went to get a front end alignment done but was told the drivers side tierod had to be replaced then found out that the cross member is rusted out.we just bought this car in 2013 and its not even paid off yet.what can i do about this cuz it was like this when we bought it but got worse!
After two sets of tires we were told the lower ball joints had to be replaced on front end. Had to park the car and wait a week before the parts came in. We were told it wasn't safe to drive and there should be a recall due to the many problems of this nature. Also the water pump had to be replaced two months prior to this problem. This vehicle was serviced each time at the dodge dealer who informed us these problem should not have happen so soon.
Noise under front of car, took to my mechanic told me sub frame was rusted through and cracked.this needed to be replaced. @140000 miles.
Struts and ball joints have been replaced 5 times since owning this car the past 5 years. Currently being repaired after subframe broke while i was driving. Did some research and apparently this is a huge issue. Not only while i was driving when it broke, i had my kids with me. While making a left hand turn onto a busy street i heard a loud 'snap' and lost all control of my car.
Front cross member rotted/ vehicle deemed not safe to drive. Chrysler said extended warranty ended 5-29-2017. The rest of the underside of the car is not showing signs of rust, only the engine cradle/ cross member. I believe the company needs to step forward and take care of this issue before any parties are fatally injured.
Noticed rusted subframe with big hole. We knew it needed to be replaced. No particular reason for the erosion other than the way the vehicle is designed. Vehicle is only 6-7 years old. This type of erosion is usually only seen on old vintage vehicles. A few days ago, we ran over a hidden pot hole and the subframe is completely broken apart. Now car is completely unsafe to drive. This car was poorly designed in this area. The company should recall the subframe to replace and install a rerouting piece for the ac to drip on and bypass dripping on the frame.
Common subframe corrosion on low mileage 2007vehicles causing extreme safety issues while driving. Was warned by auto shop that this is common and renders safety issues to driver as entire engine could drop when driving or wheel separation, that could cause severe injury or death. No recall or warranty issued to me. This should be a safety recall as common as it is.
The vehicle had a failure of the front end parts, tie rod ends, ball joints.paid to have it repaired last year and now it has happened again, only this time both sides.i now have 85,000 miles on the vehicle.this is just ridiculous. There should be a recall on this product.
I bought my car in february of 2013. Approximately 6 months later i had to replace the struts and ball joints on the car. Then had them replaced again. 09/29/14 and was told again by the repair shop last week when i brought the car in for a tuneup because it was hesitating when you started to accelerate that i'm going to need to have the struts replaced again. So now that's 3 times in a little more 3 yrs i have owned the car. This can't be normal. I looked online and there have been 100's of people complaining about front suspensions on their calibers. So i think it's a design fault that needs to be corrected. The one time ( the 2nd repair) i was told that it was a good thing i brought the car in when i did or i could have been in a serious accident because the struts were so badly damaged.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 30 mph the vehicle started to emit a loud sound from the front end of the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who diagnosed that the bearings were defective and needed to be repaired.the vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 40,000 and the current mileage was 87,000.
The sub frame is rusted out
I purchased a 2007 dodge caliber se from jim cogdill dodge in knoxville tennessee on august 23rd, 2006. This vehicle has a vibration at 60-75 mph. I have had the car in the shop on three separate occasions and the service manager has told me he believes that it is the tires; however they are telling me that i would have to purchase new tires for this vehicle to fix the problem. I first reported this to the dealer on august 29th, and it was told to me that the tires were out of balance. After their attempt to balance them i then drove the vehicle and it still had a vibration. They then told me that they would order me a new tire (because they believed that one of them was bad).when the tire arrived i brought the vehicle back and they replaced the tire. This did not fix the problem so they started taking tires and rims off of other 2007 dodge caliber se that they had on the lot. This did not fix the problem either. On friday, september 1st i left the car with gary sergeant (the service manager at jim cogdill dodge) and he later called and told me that they were unable to fix the car because there was not an issue with it. He stated, "this is a characteristic of this particular vehicle and the only thing that i could do was to upgrade to another model." he stated he drove three other dodge caliber se's and they all did the same thing. When i went back to the dealership they had me drive another se model and he was correct when he said they do the same thing. I then drove a sxt model and it did not. The only difference between them was the tires and rims (as far as drivablity is concerned).i ask him about upgrading tires and rims and they told me i would not be able to, i ask about upgrading to sxt model and they said i would have to eat the loss because my car is now considered used. The fact that the se model of caliber are all have this so called characteristic does not make it a legitimate reason for them not to fix the car.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While reversing out of the parking lot, the contact noticed an abnormal noise under the vehicle. The contact immediately took the vehicle to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the subframe had a lot of corrosion and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The dealer (terry henricks chrysler dodge jeep ram, 1935 s defiance st, archbold, oh 43502, (419) 445-2576) was contacted and stated that the vin was not included in a recall. The contact mentioned that the ball joints were replaced five times by an independent mechanic at 30,000 miles. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failures. The failure mileage was approximately 100,011.
March 12, 2014 my mileage was 56700 miles i had to have my lower ball joints replaced because they had both failed. The last issue i had with steering & suspension was in march 2012. My mileage at the time of the diagnosis by the dodge dealership was 34,898 and i needed to have the passenger side tie rod replaced. There have been numerous reports to the nhtsa/ federal government regarding both the tie rods and ball joints of the 2007 dodge caliber. I have done research and have found that the tie rods and ball joints are known to dodge to be common failing parts on the 2007 dodge caliber. When i replaced the tie rod on 2012 i did notify dodge directly, my vehicle warranty had expired at that time and dodge closed my case and i was brushed off. Dodge stopped replying to my emails and would not return my voicemails. I have found no fatalities in my research so far, but it is only a matter of time with this vehicle design. How many reports are required before an investigation is launched.thank you for your time and attention in this matter.
The crossmember is rusted and has a huge whole in it.i get regular oil changes at the dodge dealer, with no mention of the crossmember issue.started hearing noise in front end took to mechanic and informed of issue.after some research found 10 year extension of warrenty on this part.went to get replaced and found other suspension issues caused by the severe rust, which they will not cover.vehicle not safe to drive and the cost for us to fix is more than the worth of the car!!at this point have no trade in value for car...
Driving 15-20 mph in residential subdivision car veered radically to the right independent of steering striking parked vehicle. Right fronttire turned right beyond maximum and is pinned against wheel well. Left front tire straight and aligned properly with steering wheel. Right tie rod bent 180 degrees with threaded portion bent parallel to it's self.obvious catastrophic failure of steering/suspension on right front side of vehicle that had the failure occurred at highway speeds death of serious injury would likely have resulted. The vehicle is a one owner dodge caliper with 33,827 miles, serviced regularly at fair oaks dodge, chantilly va
Have owned caliber for 8 or 9 years. Few weeks ago, car started shaking when in motion and quickly became severe shaking and making loud groaning sounds no matter how fast we drove it. Took the car to mechanic who advised subframe was completely rusted out. Dealership advised our warranty ended april 2017 for a rustproblem we were never notified of. Dodge csr said they notified the original owner vs a current vin owner which is total bs.
Driving normally on a town road and i heard a thud. Steering wheel jerked and came back to center. Car swerved into the oncoming traffic lane. Drove home at a steady crawl with front end shaking and feeling real loose. Checked my front end and could see my spring binding over the strut and strut mounts were squeaking and making noise while turning the steering wheel. Strut rods were stuck and would not compress. Ordered new struts and mounts. Will be replacing as soon as they come in. Glad this didn't happen on the highway and there were no cars coming in the oncoming lane or there would have been a serious crash.
At 132000 miles, i am replacing both control arms for the fourth time on my 2007 dodge caliber sxt 2.0l, no to mention the numerous cv boots and ball joints. With the numerous complaints i have seen online, it is surprising that no recall efforts (at least seemingly) have been made for such a dangerous and costly defect. I implore your company, please investigate the concerns and having chrysler-dodge fix their errors!!! even my mechanic informed me that the length of the arm is just short enough to create continual issues. This isn't right. As a result of so many repairs on this vehicle, i will never own a chrysler-dodge product again. Thank you for your time and consideration.
Lower ball joints and control arms are defective on 2007 dodge calibers.
Turn signals start to fail, even with the faulty bulb replaced newly replaced bulb does not work. Brought the car to the dealership and diagnosed the tipm (totally integrated power module) is faulty. Checked the internet and forums for similar issues other owners have worse issues such as headlights randomly going out, stalling at highway speeds, windshield wipers failing... That they are encountering due to a faulty tipm which can be a safety issue.the clockspring failure causes the airbag warning light to come on which signifies that the airbag will not work when it needs to. The cruise control system intermittently works which is also affected by the clock spring.both lower control arms bushings (left and right) have been replaced twice due to wear. Seems excessive wear between 58k and 80k miles with mostly highway driving on smooth roads.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact stated that the steering wheel would pull to the right and left erroneously and was causing the tires to wear prematurely.the dealer was notified of the failure and attempted to repair the steering defect, but the failure recurred.a local mechanic replaced the lower arm control.the manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 29,000 and the current mileage was 90,000.
I noticed a periodic clunking sound coming from underneath. Upon inspection by the dealer, the k-bar or k-frame, which is the part that holds the front suspension together, was found to have completely rusted through. It is completely rotten. Chrysler was contacted and will not help with thus $1400 repair. The vehicle has only 64000 miles on it. I have never had to replace this part in any vehicle i have ever owned. This is a serious safety issue.
Sub frame rust on 42,000 mile car, will not pass pa state inspection.steering rack not securely attached to sub frame. Car steers erratically
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving in a parking lot, the front driver's side wheel detached from the vehicle. As a result, the vehicle crashed into a light pole. The air bags deployed. There were no injuries sustained. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to the dealer (canandaigua chrysler dodge jeep, 2591 rochester rd, canandaigua, ny 14424) where it was diagnosed that the control arm failed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified and informed the contact that the vehicle could not be repaired due to the crash; therefore, the contact would be responsible for the repair cost. The failure mileage was 130,000. *see voq 11090513*
Thought i had a loose belt called dealership where i bought car told to dodge dealership i did that $90.00 service fee said i needed new alternator $1,086.00, i could not afford that took it to america's they said for $615.00 replace then they called and said need all new tie rods well that would bring it to $1077.00.i could only get a loan for $1,000.00 so the tie rods i cannot get.after the dodge dealership had my car when they gave it back to me that car was running so bad and shaking which it never did.i bought the car i had 70,000 that was 3 1/2 years ago now i only $75,000 miles on car.my car always ran smooth on highways and city streets .there was just a noise on my car.the car ran great.people could hear the noise also as i am deaf so i could barely hear noise with my hearing aid on.i had the car inspected just a few months ago and passed inspection they drove the car.
I have problems with suspension bar front was replaced under a 10 year manufacturing warranty back was rusting but they were unable to touch without a hole the following year i had to pay out of pocket at cunningham chrysler in north east, pa they will have documentation of both.now coil spring on left front side has pieces breaking off they are solid not rusted through and i will have to replace both sides on front this seems to also be a defect car was pulled into driveway no bumps when piece broke off
The sub-frame on my caliber is rusted out. This is only 6 yrs old, and dodge say there is no warranty.there will be fatalities if this is not corrected on these vehicles.
No accidentthe tech told me that the caliber is notorious for having a horrible suspension system because the car is too heavy for the frame.replaced lower control arm bars, struts should have been replaced at 36,000 miles, replaced inner and outer tie rod ends, twice within 1/1/2 year, struts still bad.the vehicle is a accident waiting to happen.chrysler just keeps ignoring these issues.said they are going to extended the warranty only on the crossmembers, however that part directly relates to the3 lower control arm bars and i already replace.http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/dodge_caliber.html.
While turning left, i started to notice an occasional clunk which seemed to be coming from the front driver's side. Within a day, it turned into a constant clunking as i was driving, even while going straight. It was obviously not safe and we took it to the shop. As others have discovered, my entire under carriage is rusting away. I also had to replace ball joints and lower control arms at around 50,000 miles. They say this needs to be done again. The fuel pump had to be replaced a couple months ago. The tires need more frequent replacement as well due to the control arm issues. Serious problems with this vehicle and there should be more recalls than just the recent one. Specifically, with the control arms, the mechanic said he's seen them fail at under 25,000 miles. Absolutely ridiculous!
Bought vehicle used at 95000 miles. 2 years later at about 120000miles both control arms were replaced. New tires installed and alignment performed. Less than two years after replacement, at about 145000miles, control arms and ball joints are bad once again and need to be replaced. Tires as well do not last more than a year and a half on this vehicle.
Front and rear cross members as per x58 and revision x59 rustednotice sent july 14th 2014 to have inspected for rust dealership inspected and found no rust reinspected august 23 2018 rust found dealership stated out of extended warranty x58 no goodwill assistance available cause of extended warranty expiration.
Every time i go over a bump it make a horrible squeaking/ jerking motion i've looked on there and it seems everyone is having the same issues, i replaced the struts thinking that was it and it seemed the sound got worse. I shouldn't be replacing all this that early, this car has nothing by highway miles. It literally sounds like my tires are gonna fly off. This really worries me because i have small children.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at 40 mph, there was an abnormal noise that came from the undercarriage. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the subframe and sway bar needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 138,000.
Takate recall. I just gt new tires and the front arms need to be replaced is there a recall on them
Failed state inspection do to rusted front and rear sub frame with perforation .vehicle has 138 321 miles. Reference chrysler action # 23-012-14. Recall/extended warranty
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for an unrelated repair and it was discovered that the entire subframe was severely rusted. The vehicle was not repaired. The mechanic recommended the vehicle be driven only short distances due to a potential safety risk. In addition, the front passenger and driver side control arms were replaced on a separate occassion. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 45,000.
I noticed the car making a lot of noise in the front end and had someone look to see what the problem was. After inspection and finding the problem, i was searching the internet to find the lowest price for the part for my car when i came across a recall notice for the same.i am unaware of ever receiving a recall notice.which i have another car and have received several recall notices for it. With that being said, i contacted the corporate office and was told my car was covered by the recall, however it expired last month.i requested since it has only been a few weeks that they reconsider and was told they could not.i also requested verification that the recall notice was sent to me and was told they could not. Is there anything i can do that would get them to honor the recall?if the part is not fixed, it could cause an accident. The car is a 2007 dodge caliber and the recall was for front and rear crossmembers.
I i have changed multiple times the sway bar links and had to put on new struts twice. There was supposed to be a recall on the cross member bar and when i took it to be fixed the dealer would not honor the recall on the bar.it is now making once again a popping sound in the front drivers side and i am wanting to once again get the recall on the car that was supposed to be fixed before.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was undergoing an oil change, the local dealer (zeigler chrysler dodge jeep ram, 4200 parkway place sw, grandville, mi 49418) discovered that the rear crossmember and front engine cradle under the vehicle were extremely corroded and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact was informed that the vehicle was originally registered in canada and the warranty and recalls expired once the vehicle was imported. The manufacturer was notified and informed the contact that no recall was available for the vehicle. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.
My 2007 dodge caliber was taken to my mechanic where it was found that the main subframe had rusted through in multiple places. The car is only 6 years old and has approximately 76,150 miles. I called chrysler and mentioned it. Customer service stated that they would only provide cost assistance if i had the work done at a chrysler dealership. The car was taken apart and on the lift at my preferred mechanic. I had my mechanic provide the service. I did receive a quote from a local chrysler dealership it would have cost me $ 850.00. My mechanic did the service for $ 650.00. Chrysler has refused payment. This subframe components is rusted through in three locations. After only 6 years, this doesn't seem acceptable on a major front end component.
I called dodge chrysler about the fact that my car needs: 2 rear lower control arms, 2 lateral links, struts, bellows, 2 sway bar links,bushings and 4 wheel alignments. Not to mention the abnormal wear i've had on these tires, where, chrysler dealerships have told me you can't do wheel alignments on the rear of the car. It needs 1700.00 worth of repairs. The car is not that old but i don't think it should need this much repair. I understand you can't get parts for this car. No recall? there are so many other of these cars with similar problems.
My 2007 dodge caliber's subframe is severely rusted and there's less then 80,000 miles on the car. A car that new should not rust so bad in such a short amount of time. The warranty on the car should be a recall because the subframe is so rusted that it's dangerous and too unsafe to drive anywhere. In addition to the car being a safety hazard, the subframe is very expensive to fix thanks to the amount of time it takes to remove the subframe. With the subframe gone bad, the rusted out subframe also damages attached parts of the car. The struts in the rear and front have gone bad due to the subframe's erosion.
I washed my car for the first time and that is when i noticed my cars frame is rusted out. There is a big hole in the middle of my frame that is near the motor. I have to drive it and it sounds like it's going to break in half. It is worst when i hit a bump in the road, like speed bumps. My car has 106k miles the body has little to no rust. I've owned it only a few months.
The ball joints and tie rods on 2006 to current dodge calibers. They have premature wear which the company knows about. I have researched for several days and have found hundreds of complaints on the ball joints and tie rods. They begin to fail with as little as 30,000 miles on the vehicle. I have not repaired my vehicle yet due to the $1000.00 it will cost only to fail again in two years. If one of the tie rods break steering will be lost resulting in loss of control of the vehicle.
While backing from driveway onto street, the right front side of the vehicle dropped with a pop noise, stopping the car. The car required a lot of engine power to move. Looked under the car and observed a portion of the coil spring pressing hard against/into the tire. Had vehicle towed to a repair shop. Manager informed me the right front coil spring was broken. He was unable to locate any oem parts from dodge or any aftermarket replacements. When he contacted after market suppliers, he was told it is too soon for this part to need replaced and suppliers were not yet manufacturing aftermarket replacement parts. Waited over 2 weeks for dodge to supply parts.thank god the coil spring did not break while moving along the highway! it surely would have caused a loss of control and a serious accident! the manager says he has been seeing a high incidence of this type of premature failure and would expect dodge to issue a recall soon due to the obvious safety concerns. Evidently, there is an abnormally high demand for the replacement springs which is probably the reason for the lack of available parts.the supply is being constantly depleted by breakdowns. I would guess many accidents are being caused by this coil spring failure and go undocumented as the cause because the coil spring damage is assumed to be a result of the accident and not the cause! after all, how often is the coil spring going to fail while the car is sitting still vs while driving?? i urgently request you to hasten your investigation of this issue. Thank you.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact indicated that while having maintenance performed, the contact was informed that both tie rods and ball joints were defective and needed to be replaced. The contact indicated that the vehicle was repaired for the same defect on multiple occasions but the problem recurred. The manufacturer was notified of the defect. The failure mileage was 19,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was stationary, the crossmember became rusted and the suspension area made a clunking noise. Goodwin brothers automobile co. In new castle, indiana was made aware of the failure and stated that the extended warranty had expired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 213,000.
Turned the wheel and heard a bump by the tire. Stopped and seen that the shocks was touching the tire on the left side.
Car is hard to start cranks very slow and there is a tapping sound like a bad lifter upon starting but goes away when the car warms up. The wheel bearings had to be replaced. Alignment was way off and tires had to be replaced. Brakes have to be replaced. There is a hollow noise from the rear of the vehicle. After jacking the car up to check that sound out the rear passenger wheel would not come off the ground. After replacing the front wheel bearings and new tires the car now shakes and vibrates in the front end. The car has been at the repair center for 10 days on and off. This last time it has been there for 6 days and counting. These vehicles are unsafe for the road and should be recalled and taken off the road permanently. There are way too many problems with these vehicles and the manufacturer will not do anything about it. Nhtsa needs to step up and hold the manufacturer accountable before someone gets seriously injured or killed. Do not wait until there is a fatality! action needs to be taken now!
The contact's daughter owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that upon his daughter taking the vehicle to an independent mechanic, she was informed that the engine cradle had began to rust underneath the subframe. Due to the failure, several holes were formed within the engine cradle. The contact then notified the manufacturer of the failure and was informed that the vehicle was never added to the manufacturer recall list for the failure. The manufacturer offered no further assistance. The dealer had yet to be notified of the failure. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 100,000.
I took my car to get my alignment done. While on the rack the mechanic brought me in to show me the massive hole in my subframe. The car is a 2007 with only 97,000 miles on it.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact stated that while driving at any speed, the vehicle shook violently.the vehicle was taken to the dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was 116,000.
Took car in for inspection and was told by mechanic that the frame was shot, totally rusted out and could break anytime.
Passenger side control arm lower ball joint came apart and threads on ball joint was damaged
The vehicle had steering problems for over a year; it would get looser with any bump you hit. Multiple front end parts were replaced almost every 3 months. I had just finished putting new tie rod ends, cv axles, wheel bearings, brake pads, and sway bar links in the front end. Also had a front end alignment and tire rotation done. While driving the vehicle down the road 15 minutes after being repaired the steering gave out and the front left drivers side wheel collapsed and bent in. The car was towed home and was noticed the subframe had cracked and rusted out. It was a 2007 dodge caliber sxt with 130,000 miles on it. Owned it for 6 years and had nothing but front end problems and the suspension. I had over $5000 worth of repairs sunk into it within those 6 years.
I had to spend 800,00 to fix the car becausethe recall expired in feb 2017
Where do i start! from day one we have had issues with this car. Cruse control didn't work, brought back to dealer the first week to be fixed. One month later, front speaker went out, another trip to the dealer speaker was replaced. At 34,611 miles, car was stuck in park, would not shift at all. Towed to dealer, replaced stop lamp. At 35,031 miles, front end making loud knocking noise, you guessed it, another trip to dodge, lower control arms replaced. Skipping to january of 2017, car now has 124,000 miles loud crunching sound coming from front driver side. Thought oh, another ball joint needs replacing, which has been replaced in january of 2016, along with more control arms, sway bar link, and struts, about $1200.00 in all. Took this pile of crap to local merlin's shop, showed me the rotted cross member with large holes in it, completely rotted through, back cross member was in bad shape as well. Absolutely disgusted with this car, traded it in for a 2011 chevy and got $ 500.00 which was pretty generous. How could dodge not recall this issue, my wife would drive this 5 days a week 40 miles a day on the highway, lucky she could of been injured or worse, she always said the front end was not right, this has been rusting out for years. I guess safety is not a priority with their customers, they never sent any warning out to have this checked out. I will never ever buy another chrysler/dodge or jeep product.
Vehicle rusted front and rear sub frame with perforation, while driving car,a clunking sound started to occur from underneath. The car began to feel unstable to drive and is especially bad when turning corners or hitting a bump. After taking it to a shop the mechanics informed me that the k frames or sub frames were completely rusted and would need replaced, vehicle front sub frame rusted through with holes and excessive rusted components in rear suspension components. Cause. Excessive corrosion due to normal exposure to environment and normal driving conditions. My vehicle was excluded from a recall. The vehicle was built with the same parts as the vehicles that got covered by the existing recall. And has identical corrosion failures as the vehicles included in the recall
Ball joints are failing on these cars.this occurred around 50,000 and again at 100,000.i drive mostly highway miles therefore these should rarely go out.dodge did nothing to correct this and the cost of repair is over $1000.
Front end suspension
Every time when i would be going over any kind of bump,driveways at speed bumps or just driving the car. I would always here shaking or rumbling noises in my front suspension. Recently i had to get a clutch installed in my caliber. And my mechanic informing me that my control arms were coming loose. Which means that if it persists the wheels can come off so that's the sound i am hearing the wheels shaking when it goes over bumps!. And then he followed by saying with dodge calibers control arms always seems to go bad early in the life of the car no matter how you drive. I only have about 91,000 miles on my car which are about 90% highway miles.i used to drive for ups drove trucks for living when he comes to changing gears and driving the car i am extremely capable.so for a clutch to go back in just seven years is absolutely ridiculous. My parents had a 1987 volvo station wagon with manual transmission. And we never had transmission problems!!! hey dodge this is how a car is supposed to work!! you buy it works till you sell it. With a few maintenance fixes down the line. (not control arms transmission and electrical and gas pedals.)so for control arms going bad at this time is absolutely ridiculous. I went on other forums of people who has the same car as mine in about 600 people or thousand people were saying exactly the same thing but they had to spend a lot of money to get these things fixed. I understand that things go bad cars over time but this is extremely too early. I have went to 3 to 4 other mechanics and all say the same thing about the dodge calibers. Control arms are a major important thing is safety of a car extremely basic an extremely simple to understand that conforms do not go back and just seven years. Note my control arms aren't as bad as some others.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 20 mph, the front subframe fractured due to rust. The vehicle was taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing. The technician stated that the subframe and sway bar needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 99,900.
Sub frame was so rusted it affected the steering, motor mount collapsed into the sub frame, lower control arm was almost separated from the frame. I was traveling atabout 65 mph on the n.y. Thruway when i started having problems with the steering . When i arrived home i investigated and found the car was so unsafe i couldn't drive it again until sub frame was replaced. I saved the frame that was removed from the vehicle if needed.
Control arm broke and axle snapped.the car was inspected in september.alignment.new tires. I was unable to steer or stop. Seems the frame cannot support the weight of the car.the manufacturer is aware of this problem.this happened very unexpectedly.i had been on highway all day.broke at home depot parking lot less than 1 hr. After exiting expressway.*see voq 11090509*
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 15 mph, the power steering failed almost causing a crash. The contact stated that the engine cradle was severely rusted, as well as the driver's side ball joint. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 65,000.
Just filing a complaint about substandard manufacturing of my vehicle cross member parts.substandard material was used and severe corrosion is a result.chrysler has a recall for repair.could pose safety issues if parts rust completely through.
Sway bar gaskets & endlinks along with front struts & plates had to get replaced2007 dodge caliber 89k miles lightly used not an abused vehicle.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While having routine maintenance performed on the vehicle by an independent mechanic, it was brought to the attention of the contact that the vehicle's cross member had rust holes. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the front lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, and cross member failed and needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 76,092.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 3-5 mph, there was an abnormal sound coming from underneath the vehicle near the driver's side front tire. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the contact was informed that the engine cradle needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 93,500.
2007 dodge caliber. Ball joints and tie rods failing at 52,000 miles. Very premature. The dealer said the vehicle was not safe to drive off the lot.
Due to the locations of the drainage tube from the condenser, water lays on the front cradle and causes premature rusting and rotting.once the weakening occurs, all attachments for the front suspension wear quicker, tires and alignment are more frequently replaced and accidents or tire and suspension failure occur.the entire front suspension and tires need to be replaced at a cost of over $2000.
According to my mechsnic ,the sway bar has rotted off and this has been a problem for this model due to where the air conditioning unit drains there has been a warranty extension i've been told when we turn the wheel left or right it feels like the the car is coming apart the subframe needs to be replaced.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that upon turning the steering wheel or driving over a bump, there was an abnormal noise coming from the driver side of the vehicle. Upon taking the vehicle for an oil change, an independent mechanic discovered that the crossmember bar on the front end of the vehicle was severely corroded. There were no warning lights associated with the failure. The mechanic informed the contact that the corrosion was a known defect and to call the manufacturer for additional information. The contact called zeigler chrysler dodge jeep ram of downers grove located at (2311 ogden ave, downers grove, il 60515), larry roesch chrysler jeep dodge ram located at (200 w grand ave., elmhurst, il 60126), and dupage cdjr located at (433 e north ave., glendale heights, il 60139), where the contact was informed that the manufacturer provided an extended warranty on the vehicle however, the warranty period had expired. The manufacturer was also notified of the failure and provided the same information. The vehicle had not been repaired. The failure mileage was 160,133.
The bottom of my car is completly rusted my tires look slanted sideways like they are about to fall off there is cracks in the frame and i cant drive this car it isnt at all safe i bought it less than a mionth ago and just found out there is a recall on these make n models in my area for rusted underenath and tires are about to fall off online it says a 10 year repair recall was issued in 2014 from crysler
First my car started to sound like a dryer full of ball bearings the ball bearingthe oem ones in the alternator went out. There is no replacement pulley so the whole alternator had to be replaced $600+ (found out this is a common problem in 2007 dodge calibers)then while pulling out of the parking lot my tire fell off due to faulty/worn-out i ball joints and upper and lower control arms.. Had to replace the entire front end suspension $1400+! (this is a major complaint as i have found online. I have read over 200 different complaint statements) not to mention my abs light was on and they had to change out my speed sensor 100 +.then my ck engine light came on 2 weeks after the entire front end suspension was replaced when i drove the car it would shake and acted like it was losing power & would not let me accelerate past 35 mph. I took it in it had several stored codes. One was then intake manifold was stuck and the other was the camshaft.. They cleared it out and only the manifold came back up so they said i had to replace that. We did $800 + i picked it up & a day later it was doing the same thing now saying multi. Cylinder misfire & camshaft they cleared it and test drove it but it did not come back on so the dodge tech. Has no clue what to do to fix it & no clue on the cost ( this has also been a problem on 2007 dodge calibers) this has all happened within the last 3 months and my car has about 86000 to 87000 mi on it! i?m fed up this car is falling apart. As i have read dodge knows of these issues & has done nothing about it i have also called and made my complaint no call back yet..any open lawsuits on this?i would even be happy if dodge would reimburse me for these issues as obviously they are well documented known issues. I have spent way to much on this car in 3 months and @ 7 months pregnant with a 6 year old i need a safe reliable car!
I have a 2007 dodge caliber with 42,000 miles that i was told was a death trap!!several times i had to exit highways because i felt i was going to lose control of my car.i thought i was in need of tires.not only was i in need of tires but the ball joints were completely worn.i was told by my mechanic in no way should this happen with a car with only 42,000.he also informed me he has seen many calibers with the same issue.the cost to replace the ball joints/arms and tires was $1,000.dodge needs to do something about this problem before someone is killed....issue a recall and refund to those who have had this problem!
My 2007 dodge caliber has experience a pulling in the front end that started after 3,000 miles. The car has been at the shop 3 times in a time period expanding approx. 6-12 weeks. The dealer working on the car could not achieve success after three attempts. The car is now at another dealer who has had the car over 48 hrs with no response to the front end issue. The car now at 7400 miles as a front brake "jatter" and is at the dealer for this as well. Also, the car's rear washer fluid nozzle leaks at highway speed and the stereo's sound will distort suddenly without warning. I am beyond upset with how much problems i have had on a 19,000.00$brand new automobile. I do not want to believe that all chrysler vehicles have this kind of issues. I also wanted to believe that my problem was minor and would be just fine once it was fixed. However, the problems just keep coming. I purchased a new car in good faith that i receiveddependable transportation. I don't think i have gotten the fair end of the deal. I would be a happy customer if daimler chrysler refunded my money on this car. In trade i will purchase anew dodge 1500 pickup. I feel like if daimler chrysler will take care of me, i will be a happy customer who will continue to purchase their products. I don't want to take my business elsewhere but i will do what is needed.
I purchased my 2007 dodge caliber august 2007. Nothing happened until the warranty was up.here is what has happened and mileage. 40,000 right front strut45,000 left front strut50,000 outer tie rods replace l and r55,000 ball bearings and lower control arms have to be replaced65,000 replace 2 sensors that are not communicating so car is stalling and now hot water spraying on my foot when gas is pushed down andburnt my footthis car should of had many more recalls than it has.dodge/chrysler has done nothing to help me with these costs and now i am stuck.
While driving car, in my extremely busy city, a clunking sound started to occur from underneath. The car began to feel unstable to drive and is especially bad when turning corners or hitting a bump. After taking it to get a power steering line leak repaired, the mechanics informed me that the k frames or sub frames were completely rusted and would need replaced. I bought this car used in hopes of giving it to my teenage daughter when she gets her driver's licence next month. After looking for recalls, i see that the extended warranty ended just last year. I need to get back and forth to work and i cannot afford the repair. At only 119,000 miles this should be on the recall list. This appears to be a common issue among dodge calibers and is very unsafe!
Brakes on this vehicle are no good, very hard to stop.ball joints no goodsteering on this vehicle is not safe eitheri have noticed all the recalls and complaints.
I was slowing down to stop at an intersection and heard a thump on the bottom of the car.as i started to pull forward the steering was very difficult and the i heard a whining sound from the right front tire.i was about a mile from my repair shop so i had my brother follow me with his emergency flashers and drove slowly to the shop where i found out that the subframe was completely rotted through.in the last year, i have had to replace upper and lower control armsand the alternator.
5 y/r car with completely rusted sub-frame which needs replaced.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact stated that the vehicle was being service for routine maintenance when he was advised that the front ball joints on each side were fractured. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and advised the contact that a recall would be issued for the failure in the near future.the failure mileage was 57,000.
Started to hear squeaking and clanging noises in the front passenger side of my car.it would make the noises with every bump and especially could hear it going down hills.then the steering wheel would wobble and it felt like i was driving on a flat tire, but tire pressure was fine.when it started to be all over the road, like i was constantly hydro-planning, i researched on line and found that this particular year and model of car has major problems with the control arms, ball bearings and tie rods.i made an appointment with my mechanic and told him i thought it was the passenger side control arm.he checked it out and it was both control arms with connected ball bearing, both tie rods and both sway bar end links needing replaced.he also discovered that the tires that had been put on not even 9 months ago where showing threads.cost of repair not including the new tires and alignment was $887.will be up over $1000.00 after tires are replaced and alignment is complete.i was afraid to drive on wet pavement, had very little control of the car.was always correcting the steering while driving, it just pulled and when i hit a bump it would jerk to the side where the bump was.
Crossmember detached from vehicle while driving causing loss of steering due to front drivers wheel and axle becoming detached. Took out control arm,cv joints , transmission cooling lines. It left skid marks in pavement where the tire dug in. Actually ripped the tread on new tire. Come to find out this is an extended warranty through dodge. However if your not the original owner of the vehicle you may not be notified because it is not a recall.
Was driving the car on the city street when the right front broke, the sbop said that the subframe is rusted and broke alone with the cv axle, the swaybar, the lower crontrol arm.
[xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
Noticed that the front tires on the vehicle were worn down to the steel radial only on the inside edge, all the way to the steel radial, even though the tires were only a year old.took it to the shop and found out the ball joint and front control arms needed to be replaced.auto shop said we were fortunate that we noticed the problem, and suggested not driving any further until it was fixed. Also told us they had two other calibers this year with same problem.we took the car to the dealership and they confirmed the problem and want to charge $1400 to fix and replace our relatively new tires.upon researching many owners have had this same problem.just grateful that we found the problem while parked and before the tires blew on the highway or suspension became even looser.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber from a young man come to find out he only paid $325 off of a car lot he has a dealers license and he was the only owner before me and did not tell me about the struts, there was a recall on them also has bad sensors ( gas, engine coolant and pcm internal sensors) sold the car knowingly and did not get the recalls done when needed i need something done i have five children and one grandchild who are at risk me driving and having a wreck. I do not have a document about my strutsbut i have had it looked at by several mechanics
Had creaking noises from front end, as i was inspecting noticed the front crossmember severely rusted with holes. Did a google search and found numerous complaints. Also found a campaign from dodge stating there was an extended warranty on both the rear and front subframes/cross members. I had already replaced the rear. I contacted dodge and was told there are no longer any campaigns or recalls that are active for my caliber. I stated that the front sub frame has rusted beyond its life and my vehicle has less than 145k miles. I also asked if they would provide assistance in its repair as it is a major safety hazard. They replied with, since all warranties are expired and no recalls are in effect, they would not help or provide any assistance with any repairs.
I owna 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 50 km, i hearda knocking noise coming from the front suspension. At the time i thought nothing of itbecause i hit some bumps in the road and thought it might of been my brakes, but later that week i had it in for an oil change and they looked at the front end for me and the technician stated that the control arm, outer tie rod ends and ball joints would need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired because i could not afford to fix it on my own as i am a single mom and in school as a full timestudent. The vehicle only had 76000km. This is ridiculous for chrysler to be selling vehicles with these kind of parts ..every forum i have been on for the 2007 dodge calibers these are the main parts to be replaced. I even contacted the dealerships in the province of newfoundland and they told me, you would not believe the amount of replacements done for these parts. Just as well if i had of bought a toyota, at least they owned up to there mistakes on the parts etc..chrysler is making a killing on sales of these parts...whatever you do, don't buy a dodge caliber......my lesson is well learned..first time i ever had a dodge and it is my last time..if the [xxx] thing don't kill me first..or is that what it will take for chrysler to wake up and do a recall on these parts. Well i am giving some news reporter a call and broadcast this across the nation..see what happens then to chryslers image....disgusted....almost two 2000.00 plus it will cost me, not to mention the wear on my tires and there is more money....could of been an accident!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
About 3 weeks ago, my dodge caliber started to make an odd noise from the suspension and wheels. I took it in to the dealership and they said that there is nothing wrong with my car. After that, i did a google search and found out that there are a ton of people who are having the same issue that i am.
Lower front sub frame rotted out cracked and was never notified that it was recalled in 2017
Well, i have a few complaints with my vehicle.i have had to replace the same control arm on the front drivers side twice(once at 55,000 and again at 80,000) and have only had the vehicle since 2009.i have complained to the dealership many times about my driver's seat belt coming undone while both hands are on the wheel driving.the service department at parkway told me i wasn't hooking it in correctly but being 26 years of age and always using a seat belt i wonder if i have been doing it wrong all along and if i was, wouldn't this problem happen every time i hooked the belt instead of at random?you would think they would want to fix the problem before they get sued from someone dying from it unhooking while in an accident.my latest problem is with the passenger side window, i was headed to a friends house with the windows half up and when i went to put the windows all the way up, it wouldn't go, it went down, and the passenger side button did not work either, needless to say, i had to park in the parking garage and tape my window when i got home to leave it parked in the street because i only have street parking.thank you dodge for making me with i would have stuck with gm.
Have a 2007 dodge caliber with 90k miles. My wife recently went to get it inspected and come to find out the front and rear crossmembers and subframe components were terribly corroded. Needless to say it was not passed. It's started shaking while driving, alignment is off according to tire wear. I've read tons of complaints and see they issues not a recall but a 10 year extended warranty on this issue. Curious as to when this was issued and if my car falls into that
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact stated that while driving 3 mph and attempting a left turn, the front driver side wheel malfunctioned and caused the front axle to bend abnormally. The contact had the vehicle towed to a local mechanic where the mechanic replaced the front axle and bearings. The failure mileage was 60,569.
2007 caliber. 30,068 miles on car and lower control arms are bad and need to be replaced. Noise in front end.mechanic said borderline failure
I have a 07 caliber bought off a individual cash price.wasn't aware of the concern issue with the front left broken struts,. No start or no crank due to theft system wireless control module. ...water leak from sun roof drain tubes. ...blown struts. ...engine and transmission control modules may need to be updated at the same time. ...no start or no crank due to theft system issue. ...excess drain on battery due to faulty radio.as well moan type noise from exhaustsqueek noise from clutch pedalac compressor and condensor replacment due to "slugging" conditionnoise from hvac blower motor due to debirsswish sound from rear suspensionsoftware update for steering angle sensor faultwhistle sound from left outside mirror assemblymetallic rattle sound from liftgate driving around town
In motion applaid the brakes front wheel broke down and everything froze up on a city street
Fuel tank overflows every time i fill tank spraying gasoline all over car and on me. I do not ever "top off" my car. This happens at every gas station. Also tie rods have had to been replaced multiple times due to premature wear. Chrysler does not want to address these problems with me and tell me not to fill up my tank all the way, and that it's normal for tierods to have to be replaced three times in under 35k miles.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while having regular maintenance performed on the vehicle, the technician advised her that the lower ball joints were loose and needed to be replaced. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The vin was not available. The failure and current mileage was 63,000.
I was changing the oil of my wife 2007 dodge caliber when i looked over and saw that the lower control arm was completely almost completely cracked through the middle portion of it. A day prior my wife mentioned that the car was driving a little weird. This could have been extremely dangerous for my wife and other motorist if it failed on the public roads.
My wife was driving my car heard a squealing noise and could not control the car. The steering seemed very lose. She was by a garage and stopped and left the car there. Today they looked at the car and send the undercarriage was shot and could not be fixed.. Can chrysler be notified of this and should we get a second opinion? its a good thing this happened on a back road with no traffic or my wife could have been seriously injured.
Crossmembers front and rear subframe are rusted through and perforated. Damaging front end parts by instability...car unsafe to drive.car just purchased from unsavory car dealer...
We heard there was a recall on the cross members so my wife called the dodge dealership in sterling heights michigan. They told her there was not. She called repeatedly and got the same answer. The people there are quite rude, if you do not believe me call for yourself. Finally, she called again and the person there told her the problem wasn't called a recall. She said ok, what is it and how do we fix it.they told her what it was called and that the time for them to fix it expired the prior month.we assumed it wasn't a big deal so we forgot about it. Until my mother, sister, and brother in law had to have theirs fixed. So i called and asked if they could help only to be told your out of luck, time has expired. If there is a safety problem with a car why should it matter if i know the magic word its called? if their is a problem with the cross members shouldn't they know what its called?it seems very dishonest and when i learned what a cross member was i was very distressed to know my wife if driving the car. If this is how they operate i hope someone takes a closer look at them before someone gets hurt!
My son was driving my 2007 dodge caliber on may 14, 2014 and the strut broke in half.he said that he was on the expressway which is a 65 mph zone, heard a rattle noise and then a thump.he was not sure if he hit a pot hole or something else in the road that would cause the strut to break.when i had the car towed to my mechanic he stated that he contacted chrysler/dodge for the replacement strut and was told the part was on back ordered for 1-2 weeks and there was about 35 of them waiting already.i would like to know if this is a part that is an issue for this car because there are so many on back order at this time.my mechanic was able to find one though a junk yard and it was replaced at a cost of $125 for the part.thank you.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 5 mph, the cross member became fractured and there was an abnormal noise coming from the vehicle.the failure recurred multiple times.the vehicle was taken to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the rear and front cradles were rusted and would need replacing. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure.the vin was not available. The approximate failure mileage was 55,500.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was stationary, the cross member of the vehicle became severely rusted. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 140,000.
We've had this '07 dodge caliber since 9 of '07 and have had several problems to occur at about 2 months after purchase. The car stalls at low speed, we've had brake problems which when we first took it in to our dealer was told nothing was wrong with the brakes.upon several visits about noise coming from the front tires and while pressing the brakes they would putter after about 40mph, was told the wheel bearings needed to be replaced.since then we would still experience the noise till it got so bad, chrysler finally said - your rotors need changing.since we were over 20,000 miles we weren't covered by warranty.was told this was normal wear and tear. I could understand if these problems had just started, but they didn't.chrysler has said they cannot assist me with a refund nor would the senior staff agent give me his bosses name to complain further.i am very dissatisfied with chrysler.my mom is about 80 years old and purchased this car believing that the company was reliable and would stand behind any problems.we would like our money back or trade this vehicle in for a comparable amount.
Vehicle was purchased new, and at 29k service dealer replaced tie rod end at our expense said to be out of warranty. 4 new tires were put on the car and an alignment could not be done because of excessive play in front end. Car was brought back to dealer and it found that the lower ball joint was severely worn to the point where it was almost falling out of the car. This also was replaced at our cost.with 6 months gone by and 6000 miles we were told that the other tie rod was bad and thecar was unsafe to drive but that they could not repair it at this time. We then called chrysler and they said the would work with the dealer but we would have to pay to get this fixed also. When we brought the car back to the dealer again they again found that the ball joint was bad also. This all comes after the car goes out of warranty and we have been complaining about the front end almost every time we bring it in for the oil change. It was stated by the service manager that the reason forthis was the bad driving habits of the owner. Andthis was also the same reasoning behind all the other calibers with the same issue. When questioned why they did not find this earlier and why the fill out a special checklist that includes steering and suspension, it was stated that this inspection is only a visual inspection, and that if i had noticed that the report form point to the actual steering wheel not the steering components.
Car squeaks and clunks. Rear suspension components are extremely rusted.feels like car is fish tailing while driving. Was driving from work and lost all control of the car. Speed was about 25mph.
My collage age daughters caliber started making popping noises when driving. We took it to our garage and was told that the crossmember was rusted out. I was informed that there were a lot of complaints on this problem and have seen here that is the case. I really believe that chrysler should be responsible for this repair. I just spent $1280.00 to repair this problem not counting the danger it put my daughter in. Not a happy dad!!!!
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at approximately 55 mph, there was an abnormal ticking noise. In addition, while exiting the highway the front axle fractured. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the frame and front of the vehicle was rusted. The vehicle was towed to midway dodge (4747 s pulaski rd, chicago, il 60632, (773) 376-8060) where the diagnosis was confirmed. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 150,000.
I've had numerous issues with the vehicle suspension since i purchased this vehicle brand new (a 2007( around thanksgiving 2006. The first issue involved the steering and was told that both front struts, control arms and outer tie rod ends would require replacement - at 6k miles! this repair also involved replacing the rear brake shoes. The steering was making a grinding noise when parking or parallel parking at very low speeds. I had this repair performed using parts i purchased myself and a local mechanic i found on craigslist who was willing to do the labor for about $300 including the necessary 4 wheel alignment. The parts cost about $500 or so.another issue that has been present since i brought the car home has been this rattle and clunk in the rear suspension. It seems that nobody has been able to pinpoint what the exact problem may be. I replaced the rear shocks myself thinking that might be the problem, but it still makes this annoying noise. The car has no rear sway bar. I was told it's not a control issue and have "lived with it" as annoying as it is all these years. It seems it has not affected the vehicle control, but it's a nuissance. I'm getting ready to fix this problem myself as it must be the rear control arms or toe links. This always occurs while driving over an uneven surface like a gravel driveway or a very bumpy road.it also seems that the front tie rods appear to be in need of replacement yet again as i inpsected these myself and noted theres no boot on them and getting some steering noises again, including a clunk while steering or braking at very low speeds. Might need another set of control arms (not sure yet)really feel as if dodge should address and acknowledge this as a defect and pay for these repairs - as i've been reading here and on plenty of caliber forums i'm definitely not the only one who's had these exact problems.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 45 mph, the contact noticed that the anti skid and abs warning lights illuminated without warning. All of the instrument panel lights also illuminated. The contact drove the vehicle to a dealer where it was diagnosed that the front and rear ends of the vehicle needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact spoke with the manufacturer who approved the repairs performed by another dealer. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 140,000. Updated 02/12/16*lj
I was driving my vehicle on our county road, and lost control because the carquickly and sharply veered off to the right towards the ditch.the cause is the sub frame assembly was badly corroded and the control arm assembly broke free from of the frame. We had the vehicle inspected on a recall two years ago to be checked for a corroded crossmember.we were not informed of any problem down then with the sub frame. It was very frightening, and had i been going faster i don't know if i'd be here today.it's in the repair shop now. This occurred today, august 22, 2017.
Engine cradle is completely rusted out on our 2007 dodge caliber sxt. I have never seen something like this on a car that's not too old. Looking at the engine cradle it has a hole about 12 inches round and along the engine cradle support or whatever its called that sticks up in the air welded to the cradle ...updated 07/30/15 the consumer stated the part was replaced at not charge. Updated 08/13/14
Front of vehicle started to shake and drivers side front made creaking noise. Took vehicle to dealer and they stated front struts and components were bad as well as drivers side ball joint. Vehicle was repaired however there is vibration in the steering and the vehicle pulls hard right. Also front end makes a lot of noise. Dealer performed front wheel alignment and balanced tires but problem is still there and mechanics can't find the issue. Vehicle is unsafe to drive and am very afraid to drive it especially since i'm disabled with young children. There are numerous complaints about the suspension issues with these cars and the problems need to be fixed before someone gets seriously injured or killed. Can't understand why nothing is being done after all of these complaints have been made by so many. This is why people don't buy american cars anymore. Foreign manufacturers will actually recall vehicles and stand behind their products.
I have owned this dodge caliber for 6 years now and the lower control arms on this vehicle are a very poor design. In the 6 years that i have owned this car i have replaced the lower control arms 3 times. Both control arms were replaced each time because the bushings were bad, cracked and split. Now for the fourth time i will be replacing these control arms because of this same issue.
My 2007 dodge caliber, which only has 56,000 miles driven,had to have its left front tie rod end replaced at 25,000, and now the lower control arms, right tie rod end and left strut need to be replaced.after some research, i found that many 2007 dodge caliber owners are experiencing the same problems.i think that the suspension on these vehicles, specifically the lower control arms, which contain the ball joints, are defective and need to be recalled, before someone gets killed, when their tires fall off the car.
Vehicle was slowing down for a red light on us-23 s north of columbus oh. According to mechanic, subframe snapped due to rust that had not been detected on previous trips to shop. Front left cross member disengaged and that corner of the car hit the pavement at ~30 mph. Had we been traveling at full posted speed (55 mph) when subframe snapped this might have been a fatal accident. Chrysler's records say extended warranty for this issue under tsb 23-012-14 ended earlier this year. Chrysler issued no recall on this issue despite obvious safety implications. Car was purchased used in 2012 so of course no notification was received from chrysler when this tsb was issued in 2014. We demand that chrysler own up to the severity of this problem and properly compensate all affected owners. Nhtsa needs to pressure chrysler to make it right if they want to avoid a class action suit.
Control arm broke wheel disconnected car moving in parking lotunable to steer.car hit pole 15 mph.control arm broke from crossmember.fca aware of rustfca recommended diagnostic from dealership.service manager said technical issue.would not repair unsafe vehicle because of accident.fca cannot offer any help.car has had suspension problem from the beginning.$2000.in repairs 2 prior months.rear can no longer be aligned due to rust.rear crossmember not replaced 2 month tire ware.no toe adjustment. Steel belts show inner rear tires.blow out unexpectedly. Totally unsafe. Well maintained
These cars are dangerous for people to be driving on the highlway. Dodge knows the control arms are defective and they should be made to do a recall on these cars. Luckily, i have not had a wreck in this. Vehicle. If the control arms break while driving,it will be very bad. There are so many complaints on-line about these cars, i am shocked nobody has made dodge do something about this problem.
Subframe rusted out ,brakes locking up
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that there was an abnormal noise coming from under the vehicle. The vehicle was driven home where an independent mechanic where it diagnosed that the front cross member, outer sway bar link, sway bar bushing, and the rear engine mount needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unavailable.
My partner and i were at firestone to have a oil change for our car done. One of the repair guys came out to tell us our tie rods on our car were lose and would need to be replaced soon. Our car has only a little over 61,000 miles on it. Tie rods on a car are usually replaced at 120,000 to 170,000 miles. We bought this car used at a toyota dealership with only one previous owner. The carfax were provided and the previous owner babied the car. There were no previous car wrecks and we have had no car wrecks either. We are at a disbelief, as this serious of an issue on a car should not have to be replaced until it is expected. We take very good care of our car. We change the oil before it is due and regularly schedule check ups to make sure there are no major issues. Now we are taking our car in this weekend to get the tie rods done and to see if also control arms and ball joints need to be replaced. For tie rods to go out while driving is a serious issue. We could lose control of the car and hurt ourselves or someone else. This is a serious safety issue and dodge has a responsibility to replace malfunctioning parts of the cars this is happening to. A tie rod should not go out on a car at 61,000 miles when the car is taken care of. I do not understand why a recall has not been in place and why dodge has not come forward to be accountable for the issues. The tie rods will be costing us $400 dollars alone to replace and if ball joints and control arms need to be replaced well over $1,000 dollars for parts that are wearing out prematurely. If our mechanic had not caught the faulty parts my new wife and i might be lying in a hospital somewhere hurt or worse. As responsible owners we are having the parts replaced as soon as possible. If dodge would have taken responsibility to have the parts replaced we wouldn't have to worry about our safety and others safety.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber in april 08, it had 12,00 miles on it. It now has 70,000 miles.it is making a loud clicking noise in the front end.i can feel it in the steering wheel and on the floor board whenever i make a turn or go over a bump.i do not have a warranty, and the dealer wants 75.00 just to look at the car.also, while driving with my small child, my turn signals, high beam headlights, and wipers just stopped working.i have looked at hundreds of other complaints about these same issues, but i do not know of any recalls for these same issues.this is an extreme safety issue while driving. I am not sure how i will be able to pay for these problems with the car.wondering how dodge can get away with these same issues happening with thousands of calibers and them not be held liable to fix it at their cost?will never buy a dodge again!thank you, and i hope to see recalls very soon for these issues!
I had my car in with another complaint, the tire pressure gauge was leaking.while they had it on the hoist, they told me the tires were wearing unevenly due to damage to the tie rods.i only have 36,000. Miles on my car and it is a little over three years old.i am trying to get with their paying for at least part of the $700. Repair and cost of new tires.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While operating the vehicle, the front suspension and steering wheel suddenly shook and vibrated. In addition, the steering column made a popping noise. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the front section of the subframe experienced severe rust and corrosion. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified and did not assist. The failure mileage was 98,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 30 mph, the contact heard a knocking noise coming from the front suspension. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the technician stated that the control arm, outer tie rod ends and ball joints would need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired and the vin was not available. The approximate failure mileage was 60,000.
The 2007 dodge caliber sxt is extremely hard on its suspension and steering components.i was told it is normal for the ball joints and tie rods to almost fall off after 50k miles.the warranty i purchased will not cover the cost of repairs because in their opinion it is normal wear and tear on the vehicle.i believe it is not normal for this problem to occur.looking at similar complaints online i think dodge should consider this a safety recall.
My 2007 dodge caliber sxt having ball joint/tie rod/control arm failure at 64,000 miles. Replacement of all parts would be $1000.00. Vehicle is only 3 yrs old and have read numerous upon numerous complaints about this as a safety issue.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact was driving 30 mph when the vehicle began to abnormally veer to the left.the contact proceeded to apply the brakes and was barely able to maneuver the vehicle to avoid a crash. The vehicle was inspected by the dealer who diagnosed the failure as the control arm assembly, bushing and rods needing replacement.the vehicle was not repaired.the failure and current mileage was 70,000. The vin was unavailable.
I had an oil change done on my 2007 dodge caliber today.the safety inspection sheet said the tie rod is "loose" on both sides, and the left ball joint is "loose".i know if either of these breaks while i'm driving down the road it would cause a very serious accident.there are less than 27,000 miles on this car, and i found that many others have had this same problem with their calibers.i am strapped for cash, but will have to get it repaired asap, as i don't feel safe driving it like this, especially when my four year old granddaughter is with me.i think a recall is in order.
Noticed rattling in front end when going over bumps.problem diagnosed during an oil change by a national company.the estimate included right control arm and ball joint.took car to local mechanic who i have dealt with for over 20 years.he stated the right ball joint needed replacing but control arms were fine. Had right ball joint replaced.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber new.i started having front end "vibrations" almost immediately (when i drove out of the dealership after delivery) mainly from 60-70mph.took it back to the dealer and was told there was nothing wrong.took it back numerous times and was told once the tires were bad; i replaced them at my expense.same problem.took it back again and was told one of the rims was bent; i bought new rims (almost $1,000).took it back again and was told the rims were bad again.had the rims checked and they are perfectly round.bought another set of tires (same as factory); same problem.i have 69,000 miles on my car and it still does the same thing.i guess i have to live with it since "it's my imagination."
I am very sad to report that my 2007 dodge caliber that i have had no trouble with ever, with 48,000 miles on it, the left lower ball joint is so bad that it needs to be fixed immediately. I didn't believe the dealer, so i brought it somewhere else. Still going to cost $500 to fix one stupid little part that looks like a manufacture defect. *ln
Suspension - ball joints had to be completely replaced. 2007 with 50,000 mileswould not pass inspection.
Ball joint failure at 50,000 miles. Wore out tires . Replaced ball joints and tires.
I was leaving work and driving home on the highway when i started hearing a strange noise then began smelling burning rubber. I pulled off the highway and heard something fall from my car i got out and seen that my coil spring had broke and began digging into my tire. I mainly do highway driving so i don't hit to many bumps. I own a 2007 dodge caliber sxt which i purchased from a used car dealership in feb 2010 and the spring broke around june 15 2010. No one carries the parts besides the dealership and they told me that they are on back order for 2 weeks so i take it that this happens alot.
I started to notice a noise coming from the back end of the car. We took the car to chrsyler/dodge dealer & was told that we have to replace the following:rear hubs, the right & left lower control arms & replace the tires. We had just brought new tires in november 2010 for the winter & now they have to be replace again.chrysler is putting my life, my husband & mother's life line on the line. Why is it that when they had the may 2007 recall,this problem was not included and why are they getting away with murder by putting our lives in jeopardy. I thought i purchased a car that would kept me safe. The estimated cost they quoted us $1800.00. Chrysler/dodge should be ashame of themselves. Is profit more important to them than our lives. The car is worthless & can't afford to trade it in either.
My 2007 dodge caliber has experience a pulling in the front end that started after 3,000 miles. The car has been at the shop 3 times in a time period expanding approx. 6-12 weeks. The dealer working on the car could not achieve success after three attempts. The car is now at another dealer who has had the car over 48 hrs with no response to the front end issue. The car now at 7400 miles as a front brake "jatter" and is at the dealer for this as well. Also, the car's rear washer fluid nozzle leaks at highway speed and the stereo's sound will distort suddenly without warning. I am beyond upset with how much problems i have had on a 19,000.00$brand new automobile. I do not want to believe that all chrysler vehicles have this kind of issues. I also wanted to believe that my problem was minor and would be just fine once it was fixed. However, the problems just keep coming. I purchased a new car in good faith that i receiveddependable transportation. I don't think i have gotten the fair end of the deal. I would be a happy customer if daimler chrysler refunded my money on this car. In trade i will purchase anew dodge 1500 pickup. I feel like if daimler chrysler will take care of me, i will be a happy customer who will continue to purchase their products. I don't want to take my business elsewhere but i will do what is needed.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at low speeds over a road bump, the vehicle would exhibit a loud grinding noise. The vehicle was taken to the dealer who advised him that the front lower control arm needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and offered no assistance. The failure mileage was approximately 20,000.
In august 2009 with only about 48,000 miles on the car, i had to replace driverside front lower control arm as a bushing that kept falling out.not covered by warranty nor any recalls. Noticed the part was redesigned so chrysler was aware of a problem. Now, the passenger side appears to be having the same problem and a mechanic stated the passenger side ball joint is bad with only 77,000 miles on it and the ball joint on the newer control arm is also starting to show wear .i found a significant number of similar complaints of with a simple internet search .the ball joint cannot be serviced or replaced without replacing the whole control arm at a cost of about $250 just for the part.all other cars i have owned had ball joints last well over 150,000 miles.
Front suspension. Car is very noisy over the slightest bumps. Jumps at times when hitting bigger bumps. Had alignment done less than a month ago and is already back out of alignment again. Car has only 35000 miles on it.
I have had on going steering vibration issues with my caliber since 15k miles and many times it has been determined that nothing is wrong and the vibration was a normal characteristic of the vehicle.most recently the tires began excessively wearing on the front (2 replacement sets in 6 months). Extensive diagnostic found that the front lower ball joints were failing. It was determined that the ball joints had been quietly failing for about 30k-40k miles. My vehicle currently has 88k miles on it and the ball joints are being replaced. Dealership admits that 1,200 replacement ball joints have been sold by dodge in the last week and the part number has changed 5 times since 2007.i feel that a manufacturer defect lead to this issued and i am one of the lucky ones that find this "quiet" failure before it leads to an accident. Had it not been for the tires wearing i would have never know it as they did not become noisy like most ball joints. It should be noted that no signs of abuse or damage was found to the ball joints and the rubber boot was completely intact with no signs of leakage. Further, the ball joints on this model are not serviceable and are self lubricated. The life expectancy for ball joints are at least 100,000 mile. Chrysler customer service deemed this normal wear and tear but this is a serious issue that should be address before this 5-star rated vehicle seriously injures someone.this is not an issue with the servicing dealership, this is a chrysler issue that should be promptly addressed and corrected.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at approximately 30 mph, the contact noticed a squeaking noise coming from the front end of the vehicle. Also, when the vehicle would go over a road bump, the steering wheel would feel loose and jerk whenever making a turn. The vehicle was taken to both an independent mechanic and the dealer for diagnostics where the technicians all diagnosed the failure as the driver and passenger side lower control arms and ball joints. The vehicle was repaired by the independent mechanic.the manufacturer was made aware of the failure and a report was filed. The approximate failure mileage was 47,000. Updated 07/28/11*ljupdated 07/28/11
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle would exhibit an abnormal banging when driving at various speeds. The vehicle was taken to a repair facility where the contact was informed that the driver side ball joint was defective and would at some point, fail. The ball joint was replaced. The contact stated that the passenger side ball joint then failed january 11, 2011. The contact was able to secure an appointment to have the passenger side ball joint repaired. The manufacturer was contacted but no assistance was offered. The current mileage was 70,000 and the failure mileage was 50,000.
I own a 2007 dodge caliber sxt.in early 2009 i was told by my dealership that the right lower balljoint needed to be replaced and that it was very dangerous to drive my vehicle.my car only had 45,000 miles on it.i took it elsewhere to be replaced.as of september 2010, the dealership advised me that the left lower balljoint now needed to be replaced as well as the front fea that contains the recently replaced rt ball joint.my car only has 77,000 miles on it.i took it to another mechanic which advised me that ball joints should not have to be replaced this early on.i then did research and found others with the same issue.there are no recalls and i think this is a defect that lies within dodge.they are putting people's safety at risk!
Had tie rod ends replaced by the dealer 4 months ago.now, 4 months later, the dealer is telling me that i need to have the steering gear, and lower control arms on both sides replaced.the car only has 65,000 miles.there should be no reason for the lower control arms or steering gear to be replaced at such low mileage.dealer said the car is unsafe to drive.same thing they said 4 months ago when the tie rods were replaced. Why wasn't the control arm issue noticed when i had the tie rods replaced? i have seen numerous complaints that have to deal with the lower control arms.this is not some freak accident.it is an ongoing problem with no help from dodge/chrysler.if there are so many complaints, why is this issue not being looked into a little more carefully?if they want to stay in business much longer they should be dealing with this issue promptly.
Had to replace struts at 46,000 miles, then at 59,000 had to replace lower ball joint with control arms, was told no to drive car until it was fixed because it was very dangerous, the vehicle is a 2007 dodge caliber. Also know of 3 others in small community that have same problem, with same car. Also courtesy dodge in altoona pa, knows of problem with the calibers and are doing nothing about it.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber which i purchased new in feb 2006.it barely has 47,000 miles on it and yet had to have both front ball bearings and tie rods replaced.internet sites and nhtsa list volumes of complaints with vehicles with low mileage and the tie rods and ball bearing failures.does someone have to be killed before the company is forced to take corrective actions?this is not an inexpensive fix and is a disaster waiting to happen!!!
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While having the vehicle serviced by an independent mechanic for unrelated issues the contact was informed that the front passenger side strut was destroyed and both front lower ball joints have excessive play.the vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 48,600.
Both outer tire rods failed at 46,000 miles, car sounded like to front end was going to fall off.replaced and took for alignment.repair clinic could not do alignment because both lower control arm assemblies with ball joint were unrepairable.factory defect, joints sealed so unable to lubricate, forces owner to replace at $800.00 for both or possibly lose control and have a fatal accident.
I own a 2007 dodge caliber sxt.recently took it in to be repaired because car was pulling severely to one side while driving and making bad grinding sounds.mechanic discovered the inner and outer tie rods and also the ball joints on both sides in the front of the vehicle were so deteriorated that he deemed the vehicle undriveable until repairs were made.in his official opinion they were the worst he had ever seen that did not result in the tires falling off.after doing research on the dodge caliber models i have seen that this is a common problem with that make and model of vehicle.what happens when your tires fall off at 65 mph on a highway?i do not want to be driving when that happens.no this problem has not led to a death yet, but do we really need to wait until it does before chrysler is forced to upgrade the parts on their vehicles?$1000 worth of parts and service on a 4 year old car is ridiculous and to know that because they chose to use low quality parts that could have resulted to my tires falling off at 65 mph is unsettling.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that vehicle was taken for state inspection when she was informed that the driver side lower ball joint was defective and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The dealer also stated that the passenger side lower ball joint was likely to fail as well, at some point. The contact called the manufacturer who stated that there were no related recalls to the failure and the manufacturer took a complaint but provided no additional assistance. The current and failure mileage was approximately 21,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 5 mph, the contact lost control of the vehicle and crashed. The contact exited the vehicle and noticed the front driver side wheel was detached from the vehicle. A police report was not filed and there were no injuries. The vehicle was towed to an authorized dealer where the contact was told the ball joint detached from the vehicle. The vehicle was repaired. The contact also stated the same ball joint was replaced two months prior to the incident by the authorized dealer. The failure and current mileages were 43,000.updated 6/8/11 the consumer stated two months later, the tie rods had to be replaced. Updated 06/23/11
Was involved in a pd crash when a piece of tire tread appeared in my lane and i struck it causing my engine to have complete failure.when the car was at the dealership being repaired, shop personnel advised me that my front suspension (control arms, etc.) needed replacement.i had in may, 2010 (mileage approximately 87,000) noticed a looseness to the front end of the vehicle.when i go over rr tracks it sounds almost like a clunking or grinding in the front end.i know it's not my brakes as i have had them looked at.what is the problem with dodge?i have read numerous complaints on this website in regards to the suspension problem that i am also having.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber sxt that i have owned for just over 3 years.it has 38,000 km/23,612 miles on it.i took it in to the dodge dealership today to swap out my winter tires for my summer tires.when i picked it up, i was told by the mechanic that the lower ball joints on the front need to be replaced because they are worn.in fact, he told me that this is a very serious safety issue and i should get these replaced immediately.he then told me that the warranty had just expired and that the cost to replace these would be approximately $1000.00.he said that the clunking noise in the front end indicates that this is true.i do not hear any clunking noise and my vehicle runs and drives very smoothly.i have not pursued this matter with dodge yet as at the moment i am in shock.this vehicle is a highway driven vehicle and used very seldom in the city.the roads that i drive are paved and very well maintained.i drive the speed limit and in no way, shape, or form, abuse this vehicle.the vehicle is practically new given the very low mileage.i just wanted to document this problem in case there are other caliber owners out there who run into this problem.not only do i not have $1000 to replace the ball joints, i now have the stress of knowing that my vehicle is dangerously unsafe to drive.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber sxt (na). The contact stated that after having routine service done, the dealer noticed that the tires were worn and the front outer tie rods needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. Now 20,000 miles later after having the tires replaced again, the dealer noticed the front inner tie rods and ball joints needed to be replaced again, which were causing the tires to wear faster. The vehicle had not been repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 23,000. The vin was unavailable.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber sxt that i have owned for almost 2 years. I was told by a mechanic today that the ball joints on the front need to be replaced because they are dangerously defective and if they break while i am driving, they could cause a fatal accident. I was also told that ball joints should not be worn out on a car that is 2 years old and one with 41,000 miles on the odometer. He said that the ball joints were likely defective at the time of manufacture. The front tires can be freely moved and jiggled when the car is parked in the driveway with little effort. I have gotten no help from my local dodge dealer in replacing the defective ball joints and am forced to risk my life every time i drive the car until i can afford the repair which will cost between $500 and $1,200. Because the parts were likely defective at the time of manufacture, i suspect that all other dodge calibers manufactured at the same time with the same parts have the same problem and the owners are simply unaware that their vehicles are dangerous to drive.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact took the vehicle to a tire shop to have new tires installed when she was informed that the alignment could not be performed because the front lower ball joint was defective. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact called the manufacturer who took a complaint but provided no further assistance. The current and failure mileage was 51,424.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving approximately 30 mph she applied pressure to the brake pedal and heard a squeaking noise.the failure recurred intermittently so the vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer where the tie rod was replaced.approximately 6 months later the failure began to recur and the vehicle was taken to an independent repair shop where the brakes were repaired.the failure continued to recur.approximately 1 year later the vehicle was taken back to an independent repair shop where the brakes, tires, tie rod and ball joints were repaired.the failure continues.the failure mileage was 25,000 and the current mileage was 58,000.the vin was unavailable.
2007 dodge caliber purchased used a year ago. Vehicle now has 38,000 miles and needs both right and left lower control arms. Also have many brake problems with my 2008 dodge grand caravan(13,500 mi.) i try to support american companies but shame on me..never a dodge again!
My 2007 calibur needed new struts on front end in first yr ,it was covered under warranty.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 35 mph, both front axles failed. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and repaired under warranty. The contact also experienced problems with the radio and the problem was repaired by the dealer. The contact was driving 25 mph when the vehicle suddenly downshifted. The contact believed the failure within recall 10v234000 (vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal) was the cause of the problem. The vehicle had not been repaired. The vin was unavailable. The failure mileage was approximately 27,000 and the current mileage was 36,400.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that she heard a banging noise when she drove over a bump in the road or when making a turn. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer who replaced the front left control arm, front left strut, and both sway bars. The failure recurred and the vehicle was taken back to the dealer who replaced the front right lower control arm bushing as it was hitting the frame. The contact called the manufacturer who paid for a portion of the repairs. The contact began hearing another noise and planned to take the vehicle back to the dealer. The current mileage was 63,432. The failure mileage was approximately 45,000.
3 year old 2007 dodge caliber.flat tire on highway, when new tires were purchased following morning tire tech. Showed me why my tire had a huge hole worn on the side.right and left lower control arms so badly damaged they suggested i did not drive the vehicle until it was fixed.until flat tire not one issue with car.no vibration, pulling or anything to lead me to believe there was a major issue with my suspension. What a huge safety concern.dealer estimate repairs at over $1032.00mostly highway miles driven, what a shame this has not been recalled.research online lead me to find 15 other similar complaints with same dodge vehicle.
2007 dodge caliber sxt having ball joint/tie rod/control arm failure at 53,000 miles.replacement of all parts at 1000.00 expensive.vehicle is only 3 yrs old and have read numerous complaints about this as a safety issue.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated the tires were wearing prematurely. The tires were replaced at an independent tire facility twice within one year due to the failure. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer where the contact was informed that the lower control arms were causing the failure and would need to be replaced. In addition, the dealer advised there was a failure within the lower ball joints. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 73,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was traveling 30 mph when the vehicle began to exhibit and unusual vibrating noise from the vehicle interior. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the contact was informed that the front lower control arms would need to be replaced. There were no prior warnings of the failure and the vehicle was not repaired. The current mileage was 41,000 and the failure mileage was 40,000.the control arm bushings were rotting away from the control arms. Updated 04/15/11
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the front wheels became unstable as the vehicle shook violently. The vehicle was taken to a dealer. The technician diagnosed the front tie rods and ball joints needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 1,000 and the current mileage was 110,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the headlights failed to illuminate. Additionally, the brake lights remained illuminated while driving. The contact that the driver's and passenger's side ball joints and tie rods were replaced several times at brandywine chrysler jeep dodge ram (3807 kirkwood hwy, wilmington, de 19808). The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 43,000.
2007 dodge caliber. Consumer writes to express that he believes there is a serious design flaw in the vehicle. Consumer states vehicle is not capable of aligned due to defective front ball joints *tgwthe consumer was informed the ball joints were designed with a sealant with no capable means to lubricate them and repair was not possible. The replace them would cost $750.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact indicated that while having maintenance performed, the contact was informed that both tie rods and ball joints were defective and needed to be replaced. The contact indicated that the vehicle was repaired for the same defect on multiple occasions but the problem recurred. The manufacturer was notified of the defect. The failure mileage was 19,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While the vehicle was undergoing state inspection the mechanic noticed the front passenger side lower ball joint and control armneeded to be replaced because they were defective.the contact stated while driving a knocking noise could be heard coming from the right front of the vehicle at any speed when driving over a bump in the road. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 67,000.
2007 dodge caliber. Consumer writes to express that he believes there is a serious design flaw in the vehicle. Consumer states vehicle is not capable of aligned due to defective front ball joints *tgwthe consumer was informed the ball joints were designed with a sealant with no capable means to lubricate them and repair was not possible. The replace them would cost $750.
Rattling noise from the tires since i bought it. Everytime i go over any bumps in the road but especially going over the bridge its makes the most noise, kind of scary i took it in they said they put a foam behing the hub to stop the rattling but is that safe?
The contacts owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving over 28 mph there was a noise in the rear of the vehicle. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer and was told that the noise came from the rear hub bearing, because it was worn out. The dealer also stated that both the rear lower control arms were worn out as well which also caused the tires to wear because of the rear hub failure. The contact was told that the nhtsa campaign number 07v196000 (wheels: caps/cover/hub) was related and could cause unintended movement under certain conditions; however, the vin was not included. The failure mileage was unknown, but the current mileage was 51,250.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving uphill, the vehicle made a loud abnormal noise. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was diagnosed by an independent mechanic who informed the contact not to drive the vehicle because the rear axle cradle was corroded. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 74,900.the consumer was not made aware of the extended warranty.*as *as
I purchased a 2007 dodge caliber se from jim cogdill dodge in knoxville tennessee on august 23rd, 2006. This vehicle has a vibration at 60-75 mph. I have had the car in the shop on three separate occasions and the service manager has told me he believes that it is the tires; however they are telling me that i would have to purchase new tires for this vehicle to fix the problem. I first reported this to the dealer on august 29th, and it was told to me that the tires were out of balance. After their attempt to balance them i then drove the vehicle and it still had a vibration. They then told me that they would order me a new tire (because they believed that one of them was bad).when the tire arrived i brought the vehicle back and they replaced the tire. This did not fix the problem so they started taking tires and rims off of other 2007 dodge caliber se that they had on the lot. This did not fix the problem either. On friday, september 1st i left the car with gary sergeant (the service manager at jim cogdill dodge) and he later called and told me that they were unable to fix the car because there was not an issue with it. He stated, "this is a characteristic of this particular vehicle and the only thing that i could do was to upgrade to another model." he stated he drove three other dodge caliber se's and they all did the same thing. When i went back to the dealership they had me drive another se model and he was correct when he said they do the same thing. I then drove a sxt model and it did not. The only difference between them was the tires and rims (as far as drivablity is concerned).i ask him about upgrading tires and rims and they told me i would not be able to, i ask about upgrading to sxt model and they said i would have to eat the loss because my car is now considered used. The fact that the se model of caliber are all have this so called characteristic does not make it a legitimate reason for them not to fix the car.
We've had this '07 dodge caliber since 9 of '07 and have had several problems to occur at about 2 months after purchase. The car stalls at low speed, we've had brake problems which when we first took it in to our dealer was told nothing was wrong with the brakes.upon several visits about noise coming from the front tires and while pressing the brakes they would putter after about 40mph, was told the wheel bearings needed to be replaced.since then we would still experience the noise till it got so bad, chrysler finally said - your rotors need changing.since we were over 20,000 miles we weren't covered by warranty.was told this was normal wear and tear. I could understand if these problems had just started, but they didn't.chrysler has said they cannot assist me with a refund nor would the senior staff agent give me his bosses name to complain further.i am very dissatisfied with chrysler.my mom is about 80 years old and purchased this car believing that the company was reliable and would stand behind any problems.we would like our money back or trade this vehicle in for a comparable amount.
About 3 weeks ago, my dodge caliber started to make an odd noise from the suspension and wheels. I took it in to the dealership and they said that there is nothing wrong with my car. After that, i did a google search and found out that there are a ton of people who are having the same issue that i am.
I started to notice a noise coming from the back end of the car. We took the car to chrsyler/dodge dealer & was told that we have to replace the following:rear hubs, the right & left lower control arms & replace the tires. We had just brought new tires in november 2010 for the winter & now they have to be replace again.chrysler is putting my life, my husband & mother's life line on the line. Why is it that when they had the may 2007 recall,this problem was not included and why are they getting away with murder by putting our lives in jeopardy. I thought i purchased a car that would kept me safe. The estimated cost they quoted us $1800.00. Chrysler/dodge should be ashame of themselves. Is profit more important to them than our lives. The car is worthless & can't afford to trade it in either.
2007 dodge caliber.consumer requests reimbursement for defective door recall.the consumer stated on august 15, 2007, she took her vehicle to the dealer to have the regular maintenance performed and at that time, the dealer had the opportunity to check for recalls, but they didn't. On august 26, 2007, the consumer was involved in an accident, which resulted in the left rear passenger door being damaged, when the vehicle failed to stop after applying the brake. The consumer stated when she attempted to apply the brake, it kicked back and delayed her stopping. Also, the vehicle was displaying a pull and the tires were wearing quickly.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving approximately 30 mph she applied pressure to the brake pedal and heard a squeaking noise.the failure recurred intermittently so the vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer where the tie rod was replaced.approximately 6 months later the failure began to recur and the vehicle was taken to an independent repair shop where the brakes were repaired.the failure continued to recur.approximately 1 year later the vehicle was taken back to an independent repair shop where the brakes, tires, tie rod and ball joints were repaired.the failure continues.the failure mileage was 25,000 and the current mileage was 58,000.the vin was unavailable.
I had my car in with another complaint, the tire pressure gauge was leaking.while they had it on the hoist, they told me the tires were wearing unevenly due to damage to the tie rods.i only have 36,000. Miles on my car and it is a little over three years old.i am trying to get with their paying for at least part of the $700. Repair and cost of new tires.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber with 42,000 miles that i was told was a death trap!!several times i had to exit highways because i felt i was going to lose control of my car.i thought i was in need of tires.not only was i in need of tires but the ball joints were completely worn.i was told by my mechanic in no way should this happen with a car with only 42,000.he also informed me he has seen many calibers with the same issue.the cost to replace the ball joints/arms and tires was $1,000.dodge needs to do something about this problem before someone is killed....issue a recall and refund to those who have had this problem!
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the tire pressure sensor light was illuminated. The contact checked the air pressure and found that the front passenger's side valve stem was fractured. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 107,000.updated 02/11/2014 the tire valve stems had corroded and broke off, and caused the tires to go flat.
I own a 2007 dodge caliber r/t witch i purchased new. After the first 4 months of owning this vehicle. I noticed that every bump i hit, the car would sway back and forth on the road and noticed the stability was not good at all, even though i have the stability system program feature. I proceeded to take it in to the dealer and have it looked at. They assured me that it was fine. I just needed tires. I replaced all 4 tires and still had the same problem. So i brought the car in again and they then replaced the sway bar links and struts. I still have the same problem so i brought it in again and the dealer said it was fine. It is not fine! it is very dangerous and hard to control on a road that is not perfectly paved especially in rainy weather and winter months this vehicle has very bad traction and could cause an accident if unable to control, which i am trying to prevent from happening.i have spoken to other dodge caliber owners and they seem to have the same problem.now i'm experiencing water running into my car every time i turn on the ac or heat and hot water running on my foot while driving whenever i turn a corner. I would greatly appreciate if this matter is investigated and resolved.thank you
I was traveling on i-40 when i hit a bump in the road, my engine light came on and stayed on from memphis, tn to jamestown, tn. I was not having any driving problems, the car drove fine. I took it in to advance auto and had them run the obd2 on it.it pulled 4 codes and they are as follows...p2006intake manifold runner- stuck closed. I already changed that part on 6/6/15p1607 powertrain control module - internal shutdown. P0722output shaft speed sensorp0717turbine input shaft speed sensornow as i said, my car seems to run fine and i have no idea why these sensors are showing up. What can i do to reset the codes, i already disconnected the battery and left it over night but engine light is still on. What can i do?thank you[xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).'
Struts and ball joints have been replaced 5 times since owning this car the past 5 years. Currently being repaired after subframe broke while i was driving. Did some research and apparently this is a huge issue. Not only while i was driving when it broke, i had my kids with me. While making a left hand turn onto a busy street i heard a loud 'snap' and lost all control of my car.
Copy of complaint letter attached:october 25, 2006daimler chrysler motors corporation customer centerpo box 21-8004auburn hills, mi48321-8004, purchase date:march 25, 2006, dealership name:manassas dodge kia subaruto whom it may concern:after consulting with my attorney, mr. Thomas f. Hennessy of vienna, va, i was advised to make one last attempt to reconcile my problems with my 2007 dodge caliber before taking legal action.as of today my car has been seen by dodge dealerships six times for the same problem (see attached repair orders).the problem i am having is a bad vibration in the steering wheel once i have reached 60 miles an hour and above.this problem persists 90% of the time when driving.i view this as a serious safety defect or at the least a significant impairment. Each time the vehicle was brought into the dealership i was told it was repaired or they could not find a problem.i have owned many cars and never had a car perform this poorly.i kept bringing this car back to the dealership because i was concerned about my safety and still feel this way.i bought this vehicle for the sleek styling and performance qualities.i am very disappointed.i am now requesting that you get very much involved in the problem because i no longer have the time or the patience to deal with this any longer.i expect to have a response from you within ten days of your receiving this letter.
Drove home from work at midnight, parked my car woke up in the morning and vehicle wouldn't kick over. Had battery power and it cranked when i turned the key but would kick over to start. Towed to dealership for diagnosis.
My service engine light came on, took it to advance auto and it popped codes p2006, p1607, p0722, p0717.i changed all codes except p1607 because they were cheaper. The pcm runs 299.00 or more and i cannot afford that. My vehicle barely made it home, it had very little power. After changing the sensors, it runs smooth until you put it in gear, (service light still on and blinking) then it shakes so bad and has limp power. I cannot get back to advance to run codes again and would like to know if i need to re program the pcm? where can i get this done? the nearest dodge dealer is in crossville, tn, a 45 minute drive and i am scared to drive this thing. I swear, i wish i never would have bought it, worst car ever.please help me get this running right again, i am still paying for it.it has been parked since march 2016.
The entire subframe is rusted through and is starting to crack, as seen in the photos, while the rest of the car is in good condition.when i turn left, the left side of the car makes a "crunching" sound due to the rust accumulated on the subframe.the rust that has accumulated has made this car unsafe to drive, as it is starting to crack and could crack completely through when i am driving.other dodge caliber 2007 subframes have been recalled due to this issue, and this vin should definitely be added to that recall.
The bottom of my car is completly rusted my tires look slanted sideways like they are about to fall off there is cracks in the frame and i cant drive this car it isnt at all safe i bought it less than a mionth ago and just found out there is a recall on these make n models in my area for rusted underenath and tires are about to fall off online it says a 10 year repair recall was issued in 2014 from crysler
The throttle light came on and now my car is wont pick up speed only 10mph and its puttering and jerking. So i replaced the throttle body unit and did a relearn on the car and its still acting funky. I saw its a recall on the 2007 dodge cablier other ppl are complaining about this same problem .. Its very unsafe to drive a car like this with my family
I was driving down the interstate during a heavy rain storm and my windshield wipers stopped working.i turned them off and back on but they would not turn back on.based on research conducted, and similar issues found during the research, all signs point to the totally integrated power module.this is completely unsafe and i can't believe this part isn't weather proof when it controls so many vital parts of the vehicle.with all the issues i'm also shocked to know there hasn't been a recall on this product.this same style product is used in multiple dodge vehicles and other chrysler / jeep vehicles.those vehicles also exhibit the same issue.
Car squeaks and clunks. Rear suspension components are extremely rusted.feels like car is fish tailing while driving. Was driving from work and lost all control of the car. Speed was about 25mph.
My 2007 dodge caliber's subframe is severely rusted and there's less then 80,000 miles on the car. A car that new should not rust so bad in such a short amount of time. The warranty on the car should be a recall because the subframe is so rusted that it's dangerous and too unsafe to drive anywhere. In addition to the car being a safety hazard, the subframe is very expensive to fix thanks to the amount of time it takes to remove the subframe. With the subframe gone bad, the rusted out subframe also damages attached parts of the car. The struts in the rear and front have gone bad due to the subframe's erosion.
While driving at normal speed limits 35-45 vehicle seems to be off balance as if it is going to fishtail or i will lose control of the vehicle. I'm not sure of what this issue is but, i have seen previous recalls with this issue and i want to have this issue fixed if possible.
My car hesitates when going up hill . It looses all power and only drives 5-10 mph and wont gain any speed till im on flat ground or heading down hill.
I purchased a new 2007 dodge caliber in april 07.today, while replacing the tires for the first time, it was found that both lower control arms and ball joints had failed.this causes a very unsafe condition that can cause the front wheels to fall off or create a situation of uncontrollable steering.the tire dealer told me that they had seen numerous cases of this with this particular model of car.lower control arms and ball joints are not normal wear items, they are steering components that should last longer than a set of tires.after researching this on the internet by googlingdodge caliber + ball joints, i found many other caliber owners had experienced the same issue.dodge has not issued a recall or service bulletin on this very unsafe issue. Toyota was subjected to government hearings, made major news headlines and fined heavily due to throttle sticking.drivers had the ability to reactby putting the car in neutral or shutting off the car but with thissteering issue, you may nothave the ability to steer the automobile at all.my research shows chrysler has made no attempt to fix this issue, research also shows you can only get replacement parts only from anauthorized chrysler dealer and when you pay chrysler to fix it, they are using the same replacement parts that failed without warning in the first place.the car must be jacked up and tires removed to evaluate the ball joints. The ball joints fail so badly it destroys the lower control arms they are mounted in.this cannot be checked any other way.this is a major safety issue for me andmy family and everyone on the road with thousands of these cars on the road as well.these are accidents waiting to happen anywhere at any time.there must be a recall on the unsafe steering issue.
Thought i had a loose belt called dealership where i bought car told to dodge dealership i did that $90.00 service fee said i needed new alternator $1,086.00, i could not afford that took it to america's they said for $615.00 replace then they called and said need all new tie rods well that would bring it to $1077.00.i could only get a loan for $1,000.00 so the tie rods i cannot get.after the dodge dealership had my car when they gave it back to me that car was running so bad and shaking which it never did.i bought the car i had 70,000 that was 3 1/2 years ago now i only $75,000 miles on car.my car always ran smooth on highways and city streets .there was just a noise on my car.the car ran great.people could hear the noise also as i am deaf so i could barely hear noise with my hearing aid on.i had the car inspected just a few months ago and passed inspection they drove the car.
Original dunlop tires size 20570r15. Tires cupped after they were rotated and properly maintained. Causing loud noise and vibrating. Manufacturer and authorized dealers would not replace. Claim it was due to front end alignment issue. However, that isn't required in the maintenance book. The mechanic is suppose to recommend. Had front end aligned during regular preventative maintenance the day the mechanic said to have it done. He said at that time tires were fine. Yet no one would take responsibility for tire damage. Noise and shaking would start after 20 mph and get worse as speed increased.
Bought car used in 2014. Within a week the maniverter needed replaced. Dash lights recently stopped working while driving at night. Cannot see speedometer or other gauges at night. Transmission stops working when it is hot out , trans temp light comes on and trans shuts down when driving on highways which has almost caused numerous accidents. Car stalls several times after filling with gas causing dangerous situations when driving especially pulling out into traffic after filling gas tank. Control arms and ball joints on front of car replaced with parts from dodge dealer and are bad for a second time . We will never buy another dodge vehicle.
My car has had electrical issues and most all the calibers do also has transmission issues which has had multiple complaints dodge refuses to answer or fix any of the cars or issue recalls they have been made well aware if you check forums as well you can see the difficult times other people have had and the dangerous situations
Husband was driving our 2007 dodge caliber making a u-turn and noticed a jerk in the steering. Proceeded to drive to our complex as it was only two miles away. Made a second u-turn and same thing happened. Once in our complex and proceeded to go over the first speed bump. The car stopped with the front driver side dropped. He exited the car to see what happened and noticed the subframe had snappened in half and was rusted beyond extreme.
Upon driving home from work in february of 2015, i noticed a horrible nose coming from the front of my car. As the days progressed, the nose had become worse. I had assumed there was a problem with the struts and had them replaced right away. My father in law, a mechanic, saw that the front sub frame cross member is completely rusted out. I was then told by several mechanics that the car is unsafe to drive due to the amount rust on the sub frame and the high risk of the cross member breaking thus causing an accident. After much research, it has come to my knowledge that this is a manufacturers problem and nothing has ever been done about it. The a/c unit is located right above the cross member. This unit is leaking water onto the sub frame thus causing the part to rust.
Car stopped while driving several times and then would t start at all. Replaced fuse and it ran for a little bit and then wouldn't accelerate over 40. After getting back home engine wouldn't start at all or it would take almost 30 minutes to try and it would sometimes fire up. Now it will not start at all. Starter is new and theonly other thing we can think is maybe electrical. That and the lack of acceleration are major problems and it needs to be addressed!
This problem occurs when the vehicle is stationary and in motion. The vehicle will start to freak out by losing all of its gauges and controls, also the air bag, electrical, abs and check engine will come on. There was no warning signs when this initially occurred.i took it to a dealer and they claimed the it was the tipm (total integrated power module) and its super common with dodge products. I was informed that there is a recall on other dodge products for this very issue but not the caliber. I do not understand this nor how if this is a problem on other models from the same year it can be covered under warranty but not for this car.
My car started to stall a month ago after getting a new battery placed into my vehicle. The etc (engine throttle control) light would pop up on my dash. I could no longer accelerate. So once i went to a mechanic shop, they read the codes and it said i needed my camshaft position censor fixed. Problem occurred again days later. They then said it was the throttle body, they put in a new one. The problem occurred again, my car actually stalled while i was turning in a intersection. That is dangerous, especially when my daughter is in the car. I went back and they had to keep my car for a week because they said it was my ecm and they had to order the part. I got my car back on thursday june 29th, 2017 and my car stalled again on june 30th. I am quite frustrated at this point because i'm noticing that this has been an ongoing issue and dodge is not acknowledging that there is an issue. Someone will and probably already has died because of this issue.
According to my mechsnic ,the sway bar has rotted off and this has been a problem for this model due to where the air conditioning unit drains there has been a warranty extension i've been told when we turn the wheel left or right it feels like the the car is coming apart the subframe needs to be replaced.
Please find the enclosed pictures and an invoice for the cost of labor to repair my 2007 dodge caliber(contact with email address so i can provide photos.)the part was a k-bar, which according to my mechanic should never have been in this disrepair with only a little over 100,000 miles.i am privileged to have a mechanic who is also a maine state inspection station to have found this defective part on my vehicle this preventing a serious situation to develop.my understanding is toyota has recalled this similar part for repair. Your attention to this matter and concerns would be greatly appreciated.thank-you
Engine cradle completely rusted. Car is not driveable. Took the car in for service due to extremely bad noise. Was shown condition of engine cradle and bad struts due to engine cradle completely rusted.
I have come across two vehicles now that were both known for k-frame/sub-frames rusting out and both have recalls for this issue but this specific vin on both of these dont qualify for this issue. Both of these vehicles have no rust anywhere on the under body but yet the k-frame on them are completely rusted out and both have broke at the a-arms. How is it that the consumers are being aloud to only fix this issue on "some" vins and not others when its the same exact issue??? why is it that they are aloud to continue to pt the same crap part on the vehicle instead of fixing the problem that is causing it to rust out. I will put both vin's below for you to examine.2007 dodge caliber - 117k miles2008 jeep patriot - 54k miles
We have been told by our car repair techs that both of our tie rods in the front of the car have gone bad.the car only has 70,000 on it, the first went bad at about 65k and had that replaced.this is not normal and would like this matter looked into.i did more research online and found many similar complaints for that year and model.i have had many cars of different makes and never had a issue like this, not normal at all!
Ir conditioning compressor failed and was replaced under extended warranty in january 2013.new a/c compressor installed, but a/c clutch fell off fourteen months later as i was turning a corner.i was told that because of the compressor failure, (which one was not referenced) there are metal shavings in the a/c coolant lines and the entire system needs replacement.service adviser stated that he has received multiple complaints of this and that i will be unable to use vehicle defrost due to this and it is the snowiest time of the year.dodge will not replace, as vehicle and part are now both out of warranty.replacement part only under warranty for 12 months, but have not had to engage either defrost or a/c in the past 8 months until two weeks ago, when the replacement failed and the clutch broke off.using the defrost could result in the unit overheating, causing an engine fire or other failure.
The electronic control sensor keeps flashing and i keep losing power to my car. It starts shaking and making noises like it's about to stall. I have stalled several times. This is very concerning as i have kids and have to travel roads where there are very few spots to pull over safely whether it's because of traffic or on a mnt with a dropoff. I am a single parent and help is not always close.
Yes my daughter has a 08 dodge caliber but the manufacturer date is 11 07 the engine cradle is completely rusted out. Mechanic said this is a serious safety issue. He said poor ~metal quality causes this. She needs help with this. She is still making payments on this.she is afraid to drive it.the car is setting now.
P2004 dodgep2004 dodge - intake manifold runner control stuck openread more: http://engine-codes.com/p2004_dodge.html#ixzz3fraoseks
Had a loud grinding sound coming from rear of car thought it was the breaks, put the car on jack took tire off off and noticed that subframe of the car was completely rotted out.now when i rotated the tires before winter i noticed typical surface rust now there is a big hole and completely unsafe.i went on line to look it up and noticed a lot of people commenting on an extended warranty.i called dodge and was told to call corporate, corporate explained that as of august 2016 my extended warranty was expired.they told me to bring the car into dodge call them back and they would see if they could get an exception.since 3/27/17 i've been waiting for a call back, i called 3/30/17 to find that they denied my claim when i asked for a manager they stated it would be another day before anyone would call me.now i call them back and i keep being put on hold being told they cannot transfer me.this is a good car with a lot of life left and now dodge won't do anything for me when i've been a loyal customer.this is obviously a safety issue they know about and should grant some kind of good will assistance.dealer ship wants over $1200 to do it.this is crazy.any help i could get would be appreciated.i much like everyone else making the complaints cannot afford to do the work myself and can't afford to just go buy a new car.
I washed my car for the first time and that is when i noticed my cars frame is rusted out. There is a big hole in the middle of my frame that is near the motor. I have to drive it and it sounds like it's going to break in half. It is worst when i hit a bump in the road, like speed bumps. My car has 106k miles the body has little to no rust. I've owned it only a few months.
Took car in for inspection and was told by mechanic that the frame was shot, totally rusted out and could break anytime.
I bought this car, and i found out that my car recalled several items. I just wanted to know if they were fix. How do i found out if they were fix or not. My number is [xxx].information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
The horn stop working on my 2007 dodge caliber i would like to know if there any recall on this.
With only 38,550 miles on my car (which has been well cared for) i had to have the wheel bearings replaced.when i picked it up, my mechanic (who has been the only mechanic i have used for over 10 years) told me that the ball joints were also totally shot & had to be replaced.after a little research i found out the danger i was putting myself & others in, had him do the ball joints the next day.these 2 parts seemed to need replacement way before they should have.the dealership here (service person/al) told me since i was over my 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty, (and haven't been there in 2 years)there was nothing they could do for me. Immediately after the work was completed by my mechanic, i stopped at the bank.there i saw another dodge caliber pull in.while in the bank, i spoke with that driver.she told me she just had the wheel bearings done also.im not sure what year her car was but it appeared to be newer than mine!what's going on with these cars?shouldn't the dealer have had a little more interest when my actual mileage was only 2000 over the warranty.they kept pointing out that the car was over 5 years old & only had a 3 year warranty.to me that has no significance...the mileage is what concerns me.i hope others will take note & bring this to the attention of chrysler before there are related accidents or deaths.i did try to find a number online to call chrysler, only to come up with sales...i wouldn't buy another!please inform me of any actions taken.thank you
Rcvd a letter in 2013 regarding front and rear cross members needing an inspection & possible repairs.i did not get this inspected as recommended.i went today to have car pre-inspected for pa inspection & was told what mechanic called front sub-frame was rusted through & extremely weak and the rear wasn't far from being rusted through.also warned if i was in an accident it would fold because of being weak & makes it dangerous to drive.called local dodge dealer & dodge's corporate customer service & i couldn't get in to have dodge inspect for 10 days.hopefully the "cross members" & what my mechanic calls "sub-frame" is all the same and is covered under 10 yr extended warranty.https://customerconnect.custhelp.com/app/mobile/fiat/b2c_detail/a_id/24689
Paint on from bumper peels off while washing the car.
I am a single disabled mom who was involved in a head on collision on 7/21/2019 in austell ga off veterans memorial hwy. Prior to incident i just got out of a major surgery on my stomach that i was healing from. Acccident happened a week later in process of me healing. My stomach wound opened back due to collision along with other internal and external trauma to my body. I was heading home driving on right side of lane. Heard a very loud honk that startled me. I pressed the brakes. Car started maneuvering to opposite side of hwy. I couldn't understand what was going on since i was steering but it became very difficult for me to do that. As the car was going opposite my direction no moving cars was present besides one in left lane. Im managed to steer my vehicle away from left into right. Car in left lane hit my front end which led to a head on collision. The roadways was clear and weather conditions dry. I became very traumatized from even becausey car was very hard to control and maneuver. I feel that it is a car malfunction that caused my car to go opposite side of road. At the time i didn't know but i felt it was a brake malfunction. Due to my own research, i found out the braking system on these cars had a recall. I wasn't aware of this because i just purchased vehicle from a private owner before my stomach surgery. I didn't drive the since i was in er for 2 weeks. Drove it fully for a week and ended up in a wreck. I am suffering a lot mentally and physically from incident just trying to heal along with cooperating with law enforcement which i haven't obtained a police report from yet till this day. As of right now i have a pending claim with my insurance company. No info from other party insurance company as of yet. Nor do i have representation for my personal injuries. This traumatic event has put more stress and strain on my life physically and mentally.
Headlight bulb replacement should be easy for the consumer and company should be liable for the low beam problem that causing lot of owners to repairs cost of 100 of 900 dollars.this is a economy safety issue that increase pressure of the owners who do not affords such a costly repairs and drive in pressure -- also a issue for the safety of others. One small problem can cause many other problems. Do not let company get out of easy excuse that under not a safety problem.
My car loss speed when you drive it for more than 50 minutes end then i have to wait for 20 minutes while the temperature down.
Safety recall k11 on my dodge caliber. I received the recall notice over a week ago, made an appointment for this am 7/6/10 at 10:30 am and delivered the car to tacoma dodge in tacoma, wa. I arrived early and checked in. 45 minutes after my scheduled appointment they still had not started work on my car. The recall letter said 30 minutes to complete the work. I was not appraised that they wanted to work on the vehicle at their leisure. Other dodge dealers in pierce and thurston counties have refused to provide service in the past as tacoma dodge was not an "approved" dealer in gm's re-organization and i had bought the car there before the restructure. I had appointments and needed my vehicle back. It had not been repaired.
Crossmembers front and rear subframe are rusted through and perforated. Damaging front end parts by instability...car unsafe to drive.car just purchased from unsavory car dealer...
El vehiculo no sirve.
While driving the car it would make creaking noises underneath the engine and front suspension area. The vehicle was taken to the owner's regular repair shop for state inspection and report the creaking noise in the engine, front end area. The technician diagnosed the cause of the creaking noise as a rusted out engine carrier and also a worn out rack and pinion assembly.i decided to report this serious problem because other individuals who have this automobile may also experience the same condition. The engine cradle and rack and pinion assembly are vital components for safe handling and structural integrity of the vehicle.being that this is an expensive major repair, the manufacturer needs to know of the problem and should design and improve these components to resist rust and wear and last for the life of the vehicle. The engine carrier rust problem and rack and pinion assembly should also be investigated to determine the possibility of a recall.
Hello, i have a 2007 dodge caliber . I was driving back from upstate ny to ct and the overheating transmission came on . Then it started winning , it lost speed even though i pressed the pedal to the floor . The rpms went sky high to almost 6, but i was moving slow . Sometimes my back widows don't go up or down . Passenger head light don't work .. I just want to know what's happening . Then i drive it to my mechanic and they check it next day and they say its fine.
Failed state inspection do to rusted front and rear sub frame with perforation .vehicle has 138 321 miles. Reference chrysler action # 23-012-14. Recall/extended warranty
I was stopped at red light,i was rear ended at aprox.45mph by suv. The car started in fire at rear of car,flames touched to of car inside of car. After emptying a fire extinguisher,fire restarted 5 more times,each time using another extinguisher,fireman finally flooded car to stop the fire...just wondering if anyone else has had this happen? the muffler and gas tank arevery close,and were touching after impact..
The electronic throttle control went out on me as i was entering the freeway. The etc is basically the car losing all power but the vehicle does not shut off only the gas peddle loses all power. It was very scary when your litteraly carrying your entire family including your doggy.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that when driving at various speeds, the electronic throttle control warning light would illuminate and the vehicle would decelerate independently. The contact shut off the engine and when restarted, the vehicle operated as normal. The vehicle was not taken to have the failure diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 48,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the vehicle stalled and the electronic throttle control light illuminated. The vehicle was towed to the dealer for diagnosis. The failure could not be duplicated. The failure recurred one hour later. The vehicle was returned to the dealer but again, the failure could not be determined. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileage was 100,000.
2007 dodge caliberover the winter the car idled rough and something came on about the electronic throttle control. I the last 3weeks the throttle pedal on the car got stuck 4 times.i just read on internet this year car had problems.i called local dodge dealer and they said they only heard about problem on internet too.they heard nothing from dodge.the stuck pedal did not cause an accident but could.
I was driving my 2007 dodge caliber in the parking garage at work.i was turning into a parking spot and had just taken my foot off the accelerator and was applying the brake when the car surged forward suddenly, went over the tire stop and struck the wall causing damage to my vehicle.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 55 mph, the accelerator pedal fractured while under the contact's foot. The vehicle was towed to the dealer for inspection where they stated that the pedal was completely fractured and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 80,000. The vin was unavailable.
While driving i let off of accelerator pedal and vehicle proceeds to accelerate with out your foot being on it. This was while in motion on a city street
While driving over the whitestone bridge in ny, at the crest of the bridge the vehicles electronic throttle control failure reducing the speed of vehicle from 50 mph to 5 mph in the course of less then a minute.i was nearly killed by a tractor trailer truck who was able to swerve around my car.the cart rolled down the bridge with limited power.from all the complaints i am reading on various caliber websites this seems to be a serious dangerous condition that should be reviewed before someone gets killed.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 5 mph, there was a delayed response when the accelerator pedal was depressed. The failure recurred on a separate occasion. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified. The approximate failure mileage was 126,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the driver attempted to accelerate but the vehicle would not respond. The contact stated that the engine rpms increased but the vehicle would remain still. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer for inspection or repairs. The manufacturer was notified and stated that the vehicle was not included in nhtsa campaign id number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control). The failure mileage was 95,000.
I was driving to work going up a hill when the car shook a little and started to decelerate. I noticed there was a blinking symbol on the dash of a lightning bolt between two lines. I was not able to accelerate fast enough to keep my speed going up the hill, and decelerated very quickly. Anytime i was at a stop light it took about 5 seconds before i was even able to move forward. During the 5 seconds, the car seemed like it was going tostall at the intersection. Once i reached work i looked up the light in the owners manual and found it to be an electronic control light. I tried turning off the car and turning it back on only to realize that nothing had changed. This could easily cause an accident and from what i understand there is no fix, only theories.
Integrated power module needs replaced at 65000 miles. Dashboard cluster flickers and car only accelerates to 15 mph. Cost of repair is $1000. Dealership advised they are selling power modules at 30 a month. How is this not a problem to be a recall?
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that after the vehicle approached a stop sign, the accelerator pedal had to be depressed numerous times to increase speed. The vehicle was not repaired or diagnosed. The manufacturer was not notified on the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 94,000.
I believe i had one of the 2007 dodge caliber's with the acceleration problem. We purchased the vehicle in march 2007 and in april i was on the highway and the car began to accelerate.i pressed the brake and it locked up, causing the vehicle to roll three times in the middle of the highway.at that time we contacted chrysler who denied there were any problems with the vehicle.we contacted a lawyer but he said that since i didn't suffer any life-altering injuries, it would be too costly to litigate.now that chrysler is finally admitting there is a problem, what can i do???
"takata recall"while driving the 2007 dodge caliber, it suddenly jerks and down shifts and rpms seem to sky rocket, the lightning bolt symbol illuminates and it drops speed and will not accelerate over 30 mph max, it tends to do this on hills or after you have to brake slightly for any reason and then accelerate again to maintain speed or to get up a hill. No matter how much you take it easy on the acceleration or how hard you push it, it doesn't help after it goes into this slow mode. The only way to get the vehicle to operate normal again is to pull off the road, put it in park, turn it off and then wait and restart it again, some times it has taken up to 5 times or trying to restart it before it finally restarts. This vehicle carries children in it every day, and it has became very unsafe to operate, having a great chance of being rearended or hit by another vehicle in the side due to loss of power unexpectedly
The car will suddenly lose all acceleration and power with no warning.eventually the throttle control light will illuminate but will eventually go off.the gas pump as been replaced, the throttle control has been replaced, and this is still happening.this is extremely dangerous and could cause me to get rear-ended at any given moment.it's extremely scary because this will happen in the middle of the driving on the expressway and all of a sudden the vehicle goes into limp mode and goes no where.this happens while driving on the city streets as well.also, i'm pregnant.i am afraid for myself, my child, and the father of my child because we all ride in this car every day!!! this needs to be fixed!!! search the internet, this is happening to everyone, not just me!!!
I have a 2007 dodge caliber sxt manual transmission. The vehicle has a cruise control problem which neither the dealership nor chrysler will fix. The problem with the cruise control is it will turn off and not set if at or above 75 mph nor will it stay on if over 70 mph and the vehicle is experiencing a load like a hill. I was told that the vehicle was operating as designed however they checked my vehicle against one on the lot and could not get the one from the lot to produce the same action. When i purchased the vehicle the cruise control would not turn off for this reason. I am now afraid if i do use the cruise control that since it will turn off by it's self there is a possibility that it won't turn off which could cause an accident.
This is my third time that this car has not started. For no reason with a new battery it won't turn on and has no power at all. No power to the lights, locks, radio or dash. Now it has low power and when it's turned off with no key in the ignition it's making a ticking noise every 30 seconds. I have to wait again to get this jumped and i want out of this vehicle. I've replaced the battery twice in this car within 10 months and the fuse box doesn't work for the right headlight. I don't know how to get out of this car without the dealership coming after me.
At 132000 miles, i am replacing both control arms for the fourth time on my 2007 dodge caliber sxt 2.0l, no to mention the numerous cv boots and ball joints. With the numerous complaints i have seen online, it is surprising that no recall efforts (at least seemingly) have been made for such a dangerous and costly defect. I implore your company, please investigate the concerns and having chrysler-dodge fix their errors!!! even my mechanic informed me that the length of the arm is just short enough to create continual issues. This isn't right. As a result of so many repairs on this vehicle, i will never own a chrysler-dodge product again. Thank you for your time and consideration.
The electronic throttle light comes on in the 2007 dodge caliber and then, within a few seconds, all power is lost in the vehicle.the driver has about 30 feet to get safe and stop.at this point, if you wait about 1 minute and restart the car, it is driveable.this happens completely randomly and with no warning, causing a real road hazard.chrysler is unable, or unwilling, to acknowledge this known defect and the repairs suggested don't appear to fix the problem.
The lights behind the dash went out without warning. There is no way to see speed in the dark. There are many existing cases online. Dodge immediately recognized the issue when called and was not concerned about safety issue.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 65 mph, the electrical warning light illuminated and the ability to acceleratefailed. The vehicle was restarted and resumed to normal. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and they were unable to duplicate the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 85,000. The vin was not available.
2007 dodge caliber gas pedal. With 50,600 miles. While driving approx 65 mph on a 3 lane highway the gas pedal accelerated to over 90 mph when the brakes and emergency brakes could not stop the car only slowed it slightly when i reached the shoulder of the road across 3 lanes of traffic i put the car in neutral and turned off the car to fully stop the vehicle. The gas pedal was replaced and explained that it was the cause for the excessive speed.
The throttle light came on and now my car is wont pick up speed only 10mph and its puttering and jerking. So i replaced the throttle body unit and did a relearn on the car and its still acting funky. I saw its a recall on the 2007 dodge cablier other ppl are complaining about this same problem .. Its very unsafe to drive a car like this with my family
My car loss speed when you drive it for more than 50 minutes end then i have to wait for 20 minutes while the temperature down.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at 60 mph, the throttle control indicator flashed on the instrument panel and the vehicle would slow in acceleration. The contact also stated that the brakes failed to slow the vehicle, increasing the risk for a crash. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealership where the contact was informed that the throttle control needed to be replaced. The repair was performed january 2010. The contact felt that the vehicle was unsafe to drive and could have caused an accident on the highway. The failure mileage was approximately 46,000. Updated 10/27/10. *lj
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the electronic throttle control light illuminated while driving 35 mph as the vehicle became resistant to acceleration. The contact applied the brakes and the vehicle began to function as normal. The failure recurred on an intermittent basis and the vehicle also stalled during a few occurrences. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and he was unable to diagnose the failure because the light was no longer illuminating. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, but offered no assistance. The failure mileage was 91,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 65 mph, the electronic throttle control warning indicator illuminated continuously. In addition, the vehicle decelerated from 65 mph to 5 mph, and the vehicle lost power. The vehicle was able to restart, but failed to operate until minutes later. The contact called john elway chrysler at 970-281-4687 and was advised to bring in the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and informed the contact that the vehicle was not under warranty. The approximate failure mileage was 154,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was driving 5 mph and engaged the brakes when the vehicle abnormally accelerated. The contact was unable to stop the acceleration and crashed through the glass front of a gas station. The contact and two passengers were injured. A police report was filed. The vehicle was then towed to an independent mechanic where they were awaiting a pending investigation. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was unknown.
The vehicle had numerous throttle issues and air conditioning issues that numerous auto service shops were not able to fully take care of. When the vehicle was at a stop and the accelerator was pressed, lightly and normally the car would accelerate inappropriately and kind of jerk forward. In addition, when turning and the accelerator is pressed normally the car would seem to lose power and seem to glide into the turn and then jerk forward. These throttle issues were never fully explained or fixed. After a while the car dash started flashing a red electrical bolt and the car would shutter and shake and lose all power. Initially, when this occurred i was able to just turn the car off and wait and then turn it back on and it would function for a while. Also, if the car was idling at a stoplight or parked the electrical bolt would flash and the car would start to shake. After some time the vehicle's left low beam headlight went out. When replaced it still did not work. The vehicle's alternator and battery were checked and found to be functional. Within a week after this occurrence the vehicle could not be started without a "jump" and even so would lose power once parked and could not be started again. I returned the car to the auto mechanic, specifically an auto electrician, and was told it was the totally integrated power module that needs to be replaced at a cost of $700 plus labor. In response to this i researched the part and came across numerous people with the same problem and the same eventual diagnosis. The car has been essentially undrivable and unsafe. There was the constant worry that the electrical problem would happen while on the expressway and cause very unsafe conditions for myself and others on the road. It is my opinion a recall needs to be issued for this problem.
Accelerator stuck to the floor as i was pulling off. I noticed that there was finally an investigation being done and wanted to let it be known that this is happening to more people.
Turn signals start to fail, even with the faulty bulb replaced newly replaced bulb does not work. Brought the car to the dealership and diagnosed the tipm (totally integrated power module) is faulty. Checked the internet and forums for similar issues other owners have worse issues such as headlights randomly going out, stalling at highway speeds, windshield wipers failing... That they are encountering due to a faulty tipm which can be a safety issue.the clockspring failure causes the airbag warning light to come on which signifies that the airbag will not work when it needs to. The cruise control system intermittently works which is also affected by the clock spring.both lower control arms bushings (left and right) have been replaced twice due to wear. Seems excessive wear between 58k and 80k miles with mostly highway driving on smooth roads.
I was stopped at a stop light.the light turned green and i stepped onto the accelerator pedal.as i was accelerating up a hill the entire plastic pedal broke off from the firewall and fell onto the floor.i was able to get off of the road safely, but the car is useless without a pedal.
While accelerating on the highway on-ramp, the accelerator pedal stuck and the vehicle continued accelerating in spite of the brakes being applied. I was only able to stop the vehicle after turning off the ignition while the vehicle was still in motion. There was a recall performed on this vehicle in 2010 to prevent a sticky accelerator pedal, but apparently the same issue the recall was intended to prevent still exists today.
I was driving and the car stalled out and a car almost hit me.i found out later that the throttle body messed up and shut may car down.. Dodge should really recall this.
I purchased this car used from a dealership due to the fact that i have an hour drive to and from work and it appeared to have great gas mileage.within my first two weeks of ownership the starter was stuck engaged as i drove and caught fire.this i replaced knowing with age, starters and alternators die.a month after servicing the starter, i was driving on the interstate at a speed of 67mph in heavy traffic when a lightening bolt (electronic throttle control sensor light) flashed and the car jerked as if it were to stall.i contacted my local dodge dealer who informed me that it probably was the throttle body and that i might as well drive the car for a bit because the light was not staying lit.every since then the light has flashed on atleast once a month with the car violently jerking as to stall.i started the car last week and the idle was miserable so figured the throttle body had gone. Took the car to the local dealership to read codes on the pc. Code was for the throttle body.the throttle body was replaced by a certified dealership mechanic.within 30 miles and 30mins after leaving the garage the car wasjerking to stall as before but the light was not on.seem to be a serious problem considering stall on interstate at those speeds and hit by a semi would cause instant death.the value of my car is no longer high but you can guarantee the loan and payments are. I am a preschool teacher and make a very small income.took car instantly back to dealership but i know they will find nothing, charge to much, and send me on my way with a death sentence.seems as though dodge/chrysler has decided that as long as no deaths it is ok to carry on with this refusal to admit that they made a bad product.how about robbing! all i want is my car fixed but of course they will not admit anything.suppose i will have to call the news, fax the ceo's, and die .
2007 dodge caliber.consumer writes in regards to accelerator problems.the consumer stated the accelerator pedal was replaced, but no luck resolving the loss of power problem. Also, the abs light illuminated and a bell would start alarming when the accelerator didn't react after being pressed. The consumer believed the throttle body gear wore the sprocket down on the lowest gear.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 25-30 mph, the contact stated that the accelerator pedal became stuck when it was depressed and the vehicle accelerated up to 80 mph. When the contact applied the brakes, the vehicle did not slow down. The steering wheel would not move and the gear shift lever would not shift into park. When she applied the emergency brake, the vehiclespun over a sidewalk into a parking lot. The identical failure occurred when she attempted to restart the vehicle; therefore,she towed the vehicle to an authorized dealer. Two months prior to the failure, the keys became stuck in the ignition for thirty minutes. The dealer had not informed the contact what caused the failure to occur. The contact stated that she experienced headaches and neck pain after the failure occurred. The current and failure mileages were approximately 60,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 40 mph, the electronic throttle control light illuminated as the vehicle erroneously decelerated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the failure could not be replicated. The contact also mentioned that the failure recurred intermittently. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was contacted about the failure. The failure mileage was 68,000.
While driving on suburban roads car would lose all power and almost stall, a red lighting bolt would appear on instrument panel. Vehicle taken to dealership throttle body replaced and pcm flashed.second incident occurred about one year later, this time on the freeway at approx 65mph loss of all power almost stall. Car taken to dealer, throttle body was not replaced however pcm was again flashed. Third occurrence happened 09/18/11 issue was present in both city driving and freeway driving again taken to dealership and throttle body needs to be replaced and pcm flashed. This failure is highly dangerous due to the fact that is happens without warning on both city and highway driving.
Got a letter in the mail about a safety recall on an accelerator pedal. Went to the dealership to get it fixed but they didn't want to repair the safety recall.
While driving on i40 from wilmington, nc the car just shut offunexpectedly throttle control light(lightning bolt) came on, car was hard to control, was slowly able to get the car off the road and restarted, moments after restart while trying to pull back onto the highway it cut off again, after attempting to get going several times it finally started and did not cut off until we reached our destination. This has happened dozens of times now with no luck finding a fix or being able to properly diagnose the problem. This is a terribly scary situation to be in on the highway , i wish nhtsa would investigate this problem as i see this has been reported to them hundres of times for this model year the oldest report of this was in 9/2006 to a brand new 2007 caliber this is crazy , something must be done. Dodge is consistently ripping people of with repair bills that dont seem to be repairing the problem as you can read in several of the complaints.
On my way home from work i stopped at a light and my car jerked and acted as though it was about to shut off and my check engine light came on and then the car would not accelerate very well.i went back to my work and had the mechanic check it (i work at a school transportation) and the light said it was the crankshaft position sensor so i got it replaced and it did nothing so we went ahead and replaced thr camshaft as well and it worked for a week or so then started off and on.my headlight also stopped working and i replaced it 3 times before wondering what the heck! i just recently was cited a ticket due to the light and since i was not able to fix it i had my license suspended and was driving without knowing and ended up getting pulled over again but instead of explaining that my car sucks i was arrested and put in jail for a couple hours so now i have two court dates coming up one for my fix it ticket not getting fixed and another for driving on suspended because of not getting the part fixed so it is starting to become a major issue for my whole life in general.my car dies at almost every stop light and if i go over 2rpm it will not acclerate.i had to replace major parts such as; motor mounts, struts, pistons, calipers, brakes, batteries, etc in just the short time ive owned the vehicle which was very hard for me since i dont make much money.the car is wired very odd and my father is my go to mechanic but he couldnt figure out some of the parts.i dont have the finances for the tpim and figured it would be recalled by now since its a major problem with most calibers so i stuck it out but now i dont know whats going to happen.as of today, august 24, 2015, my car is not running since it lost all power last night, first the radio stopped, then the ac stopped blowing, then the lights that work started to dim, and then it just died. Please help!!!
When in cruise control at between 70-75 mph and going up a long incline (cajon pass) the electrical light comes on and the car quits running, and to date starts again after losing about 5mph after several heartbeats. This has been happening intermittently since the car was new with less than 6000 miles on it.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 50 mph, the accelerator pedal stuck to the floor. The vehicle surged forward until the contact applied pressure to the pedal in order to release it. The failure occurred three times. The contact took the vehicle to an authorized dealer where it was repaired for the failure. The failure had not occurred since the vehicle was repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 60,000. The current mileage was approximately 85,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 5-10 mph and attempting a turn, the vehicle rapidly accelerated. When the brakes were engaged the vehicle failed to slow down and crashed into an unoccupied parked vehicle which caused a chain reaction involving another unoccupied parked vehicle. The air bags did not deploy with the impact. The contact sustained several bruises to the body and a neck injury. A police report was filed. The vehicle sustained substantial body damages and was towed to a collision center. An independent investigator, who was referred by the manufacturer, inspected the vehicle and was unable detect an acceleration failure. There was a recall associated with nhtsa campaign id number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal) however, the contacts vin was not included in the recall. The failure mileage was 12,000.updated 4/11/2011 updated 1/13/2012 *ln
When accelerating the pedal sticks on my '07 dodge caliber sxt. Causes the rpm's to jump and loose control of the speed of the vehicle. It has happened three times now. Just received a recall notice for the accelerator on a 2007 dodge caliber. They inspected it and said it was not with in the dates the manufacturers given for the recall. Told the dealership it has happened twice before and the last one was about four days before i got the notice. Now a few days after it was inspected it happened again. Reading other complaints on this matter, i have found copper bushings on the floor. If they were from under the pedal shouldn't the service man noticed that if he did check it? leaves me to wonder if they did indeed check it. Everything that happens matches the recall, so why it wasn't just fixed is beyond me.
Engine warning lights flash, warning check engine light disappear, reappear at will, wont start, system failure, loss of power, speed limit acute loss of power, stalling of engine while at freeway speeds, stalling out at 35-40 mph speeds, noise at gas pedal.
I am not sure if this is the correct category as far as the elec.sability controlthe manual refers to it as the electronic throttle control when the light comes on.i have noticed that there is a recall for 2007 dodge calibers with this problem, but for some reason my vin/vehicle is not included in the recall as well as many many others with the same problem. I am thinking they do not know who to notify because if they did you would have several complaint at this time.my 2007 dodge caliber has caused me problems and unsafe moments for sometime now.the vehicle will sometimes start with the electronic throttle control light on right off the bat other times you could be cruising over a bridge and it will come on and decide to go 2 mph if even that.i had an incident with my grandbaby where we were turning left across a lane of traffic and the car decided to go 1-2 mph it was a good thing that the on coming traffic was out there far enough for us to get across. I have not and will not drive the car since.i still have a car payment and insurance payment but cannot use the vehicle.i have been keeping up with the people on line and there is quiet a few that has had several scary situation like myself.there has been ones who have taken the vehicle in and the repair shop said there was nothing wrong.......thenback out on the road they go and the problem happens again.one of these times someone will be crossing a very busy highway and could get in a bad wreck and die? we need your help????
Car purchased brand new in 2007 with lifetime powertrain warranty.driven 99% on interstate at approximately 70 mph.all manufacturer's maintenance recommendations have been followed.while driving approx 72 mph in flow of traffic, car suddenly decelerated to under 35 mph and lightning bolt (electronic throttle control indicator) began flashing. I was nearly hit by a tractor trailer barreling down on my car. I moved to the shoulder, grabbed the manual and read about the light. I turned off the car and turned it back on after about 15 minutes and the car seemed fine and i was able to get home. The next morning, the car wouldn't start. I tried several hours later and it started just fine. About 1 mile down the road in 3rd gear, the car lost speed again dropping from approx 40 mph to 10 mph. The lightning bolt was not on this time, but the check engine light came on. I pulled into the nearby car parts store and they read the engine codes (p2110 and p2118). I took my car to my mechanic at under 10 mph on a 55 mph road. The mechanic got the same codes and indicated that the throttle body probably needed to be replaced.i then contacted the local dealership, indicated what was wrong and was told that they would need me to pay $95 to inspect the vehicle before they could tell me whether or not the parts would be covered under warranty.i told her what part was in question and was told it was not under warranty, despite its drastic effect on the engine.because it was not covered under warranty or recall, my mechanic worked on it.he cleaned the throttle body and found no problems with it.he then replaced the cam shaft position sensors, which fixed the problem.this is a serious safety issued that will get someone killed, if it hasn't already.it's possible that it has happened and hasn't been reported because a dead person can tell their version of events.
Driving on the highway at 70 mph and car transmission temperature light came on and the power to the car declined to a coast and i had to try and pull to the shoulder in heavy traffic with snow on the road which almost caused me to get hit by other vehicles going the speed of 70 mph. This has happened numerous times i have taken it in to the dealer whom recommended that i have the transmission service done by the dealer which i paid for and complied to have performed. It continued to happen and still looses power going highway speed of 65. I have taken it to the dealer over and over and they deny any liability and say everything is ok. I have the lifetime powertrain warranty on the vehicle. I am going to end up dead thanks to a faulty transmission in the car. It has never towed anything so no stress is ever applied to the transmission. Now i am pissed because my wife was almost hit when she was driving it on the highway during rush hour and it reduced poweron her. I have paperwork showing the dealer checking it and saying it is ok not to mention the numerous times i have gone in and they say they have heard nothing regarding problems with the caliber. If you look on line there are plenty of us citizens that are plaqued with this same problem.......updated 12/03/15updated 11/13/2017
The total integrated power control module (tipm) is the latest diagnosis made (7/31/15) for my 2007 dodge caliber.history: beginning in 2010 i began to notice an intermittent terrible whining noises and loss of power, which i attributed to (incorrectly) to the dodge cvt automatic transmission. The events would occur then o go away only to return again. Then beginning in 2011 the events were followed shortly thereafter by electrical component failures all of which caused me to make emergency shoulder pull offs due to significant power loss and the acrid odor and smoke of smoldering plumes of smoke.the acrid smell and smoke would stop when i shut down the vehicle; however the vehicle would not restart and had to be towed to a mechanic in each of the following documented incidents:1/3/11 (mileage 67,877) tow and replace starter - $429.001/7/12 (mileage 73,943) tow and replace warranted starter - $179.002/14/13 (mileage 85,490) tow and replace warranted starter- $189.00 3/7/14 (mileage 97,383) tow and replacement starter - $324.032/15/15 (mileage unknown) replace alternator$406.005/20/15 (mileage 102,660) replacement starter $491.277/17/15 (mileage 103, 320) replacement starter $ (no charge)7/17/15 (mileage 103, 325) unable to diagnose electrical problem7/31/15 (mileage 103, 325) replacement (tipm) $ 1242.00 (estimate) come on dodge/daimler chrysler/fiat make this right or forever forego future product purchase
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber sxt. The contact was driving 60 mph when the engine stalled. The throttle warning sensor illuminated during the failure. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and the manufacturer was not contacted. The vehicle was not repaired and the vin was unavailable.the failure mileage was 32,000 and the current mileage was 73,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 35 mph, both front axles failed. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer and repaired under warranty. The contact also experienced problems with the radio and the problem was repaired by the dealer. The contact was driving 25 mph when the vehicle suddenly downshifted. The contact believed the failure within recall 10v234000 (vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal) was the cause of the problem. The vehicle had not been repaired. The vin was unavailable. The failure mileage was approximately 27,000 and the current mileage was 36,400.
Dodge failed to notify me of a recall on my gas pedal. Due to this the pedal stuck as i was driving the vehicle reaching speeds of 80+ on a back road. I contacted a dealer which got me in the next day but it was going to take a day to get the part in. So in the mean time i was suppose to drive my car on the roads so this could stick again and hope that i was as lucky as the first time where no one was hurt. Also there is other damage to the brakes and front end from trying to stop this but they are not going to do anything it has to come out of my pocket. Also since i did not feel safe driving the car for a day till the part came in i was going to have to pay for a rental out of my pocket or drive my car. So dodge did not see any problem with me driving my car again. Does anyone else feel this was not a smart thing to do that this was unsafe. It is like sending a death trap on the road to kill someone. Dodge could careless about the customers or anyone's life.
Driving at 35 mph, car suddenly lost power and lightning symbol appeared on dash.drove it home on side streets at very low speed (would notacceleratepast 10-15 mph) put a code reader on the car and came up with code p2119.this is a very dangerous situation, and could very easily cause an accident that could result in a fatality.
Accelerated from red light to get on to the freeway, car lurched forward and stalled. Power was lost and had to limp to safely get to the side of the road. Electronic throttle light (bars with lightning bolt) came on. Shut the car completely off and restarted, drove 20 feet and the same thing happened again. Shut the car off again for 5-7 min and was able to safely get off the freeway. Took in to private mechanic the next day and was informed that the throttle body it self went bad and he as seen this a lot with different models of dodge vehicles, yet no recall has been issued. Is going to cost me $500 to get it fixed.i bought the car brand new in 2006 so warranty is out due to age.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the engine rpms increased as soon as the vehicle was started. In addition, the throttle control sensor warning lamp was illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure who did not offer any assistance. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and the current mileage was 81,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while attempting to engage the brake pedal at 45 mph on an incline, the accelerator pedal became stuck in the open throttle position. The contact shifted the vehicle into park and was able to stop the vehicle by applying the brakes. He had to reposition the accelerator pedal in order to continue driving. The failure persisted four additional times on the same day. The dealer replaced the accelerator pedal and stated that the repair potentially would not prevent the failure from recurring. The contact stated that the failure persisted. The manufacturer stated that they were unable to provide any assistance until the failure had occurred at least three additional times. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 94,000.
Have had several batteries, starters and alternators replaced over the past 3 years. Car has 140,000 miles on it. Recently the engine light went on. Now when it rains, the dashboard warning lights go off like a christmas tree with the the warning bell sounding. Car won't go over 20mph. If i turn it off and then on again (sometimes after a few tries) it starts up fine. Like the car but can't afford whatever is wrong to fix it.
Started vehicle which had been running perfectly fine, just got a oil change a few days prior. Started driving and the car starts sputtering like it was going to die. The etc symbol started to flash and car would only go 5-10 mph when this happened i was already driving at 40mph when the car just started to slow down to the 5 miles and sputter.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 70 mph, the vehicle decelerated and the linn bolt warning light illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic. The technician diagnosed that the electronic control, the power train activator, and the actuator control system needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 171,570.
At first, the service engine soon light would begin flashing when i hit the accelerator pedal and i lost power. Could not go over 35 mph. Then by the time i made it off the highway, the light stayed flashing all the time. And i have not been able to regain proper power at all. It uses a ton of gas and when sitting in park, if i push the break pedal, there is a clicking noise under where the shifter is located. With losing power on the highway, other traffic and myself were in danger. I looked online and many many ppl have the same issue with no luck of fixing the problem even after hundreds of dollars at the mechanic. Also, many have filed complaints and have gotten no where and very negative responses when calling dodge. I dont have hundreds of dollars for repairs as i am on disability. Hope this has became a recall issue and i dont have a huge out of pocket expense. I travel to drs alot
I do not know what to think or what to do!!!! i have had multiple issues with my caliber since i purchased it.the first time it happened was back in 2008 or 2009 after i purchased the vehicle and it decided it needed to shut off on me in the middle of the road. A while later the entire electrical system died and i had no dash-lights/headlights/ emergency lights/ wipers/ just keep going with more electrical necessary safety equipment.then another set of issues arose... Since we have had multiple parts of the whole car fixed and or replaced most recently the suspension, transmission, and the same sensory that was fixed earlier (crankshaft sensor).now only 4 months since all of those issues were fixed my car is worse then it was before.....driving down the road the vehicle will attempt to stall (as an automatic), the rpms have a mind of their own... Oh and don't let me forget that the dealer can find no issues or malfunctions with the vehicle as it does not produce an error code when connected to a diagnostic reader.(just a side note i might be an idiot but a mechanical error will not produce a error code as it is mechanical and not electrical...but i could be mistaken).now what happens the day i am driving down the road with my children and the vehicle decides it is done and shuts off....i can see that there are multiple complaints about the same issue and there have been no major fixes/recalls/statements.if it is a well known fact that dodge and their cvt transmissions have malfunction issues; why can't there be one swift fix to make the vehicle safe to drive.or since no one has died at the hand of chrysler due to these malfunctions it is not important enough to be addressed?
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 40 mph, the vehicle stalled and an electronic throttle light illuminated on the instrument panel. The contact was able to coast the vehicle to the side of the road before it stopped completely. The contact then attempted to restart the vehicle, but the engine would not restart and the electronic throttle light continued to illuminate. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer, where they were yet to diagnose or repair the failure. The failure mileage was unknown and the current mileage was 56,192.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at approximately 55 mph, the vehicle slowed down and accelerated independently. The failure recurred numerous times. The vehicle was taken to a dealer where the failure was undetermined. The vehicle was test driven by a mechanic who stated that the electronic throttle control needed to be repaired. The vehicle was repaired. The vin was not included in nhtsa campaign number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 17,000.
Driving down the highway, all of my dash lights came on-battery, fuel, temp, etc. Car lost speed and became sluggish. Lost power steering and pulled over. Car immediately died and would not go into park. Locked up completely. After about 30 mins, it started back up and ran for pax 3 blocks before doing it again. Had it towed. Replaced the alternator, then 3 weeks later same issues. Replaced the battery. Did not fix it. Now told its a common issue for the dodge caliber and is the control module which is a 1000 dollar part plus labor. And that dodge is aware of the issue and has not recalled them. I do not feel i should be stuck with the costs of a major repair that is a design flaw from the manufacturer that they have been aware of for years and is obviously a hazard when it shuts down immediately while driving with no warning. My two young children and 84 year old grand mother were with me in 100 degree weather on the side of the highway for hours while waiting on a tow and a family member to come get us since we couldn't ride in the tow truck. After reading forums online, hundreds if not thousands of caliber owners have had the same issue. Some had cars that were only two weeks old! i would like to request an investigation and hopefully a recall happen.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 60 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. In addition, the electronic throttle control warning light was illuminated on the instrument panel and the vehicle would decelerate independently. The vehicle was inspected by an independent mechanic who advised that the alternator needed to be replaced. The dealer was contacted and the part was ordered.the vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.
Feels like the car is going to hit a corner or bump and the whole front and tires are gonna come off. Also the gas cap light keeps coming on followed by the engine light. For some reason my gas cap keeps opening itself like there is air or pressure literally unscrewing it. The gas cap happens when parked
Gas pedal stuck on two occasion in same trip. The "smart pedal" feature failed to work as both gas and brake were applied to no result. Had to pull gas pedal up from bottom to correct. Have an appointment for service scheduled.
My son drove my car one night and he said he didn't like the steering because it act like ilose and tires about to fall off i told him i know cause it was eating up the out side of tires fast to wear wires were seen on both sides of the front tires and later eveny son had a wreck and total out car on the seen where the wreck happen it didn't make sense to me and my son didn't have his seat beat on and it threw h out and i believe iif he did it would of killed him he don't remember nothing cause i think it put him in shock i have not received the police report but i have taking pictures and i do know there was a alot rust underneath i only had the car for two month the car is at a salvage place and i can't get it and i am going to have to pay for it i just think something was not right on the steering and supention it was on hwy on a straight away
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. When another driver operated the vehicle, the accelerator pedal was depressed and the vehicle accelerated and veered into a corn field. The driver was able to stop the vehicle by depressing the brake pedal. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed by a dealer or independent mechanic. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The vin was excluded from nhtsa campaign number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control). The approximate failure mileage was 91,000.updated 11/04/15*lj updated 2/1/2016
My car started sputtering and would not reach speeds over 10mph. I put flashers on and drove to nearby mechanic. I looked up recalls and safety sites, for this was very unsafe. I found to sites for accelerator pedal sticking safety issues dealing with the throttle boy. I am paying for repairs but also looking into why dodge put me in this unsafe situation. I have a heart condition and was very afraid driving it while it was sputtering and shaking and not driving safe at all.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that when he depressed the accelerator pedal, there would be a slight delay in acceleration and then it would suddenly accelerate quickly. The brakes only slowed the vehicle down slightly. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer who stated that there was an issue with the accelerator pedal but was unsure of exactly what was wrong. The failure mileage was 43,000 and the current mileage was 55,000.
I recently purchased the vehicle from the original owner. The vehicle light flashes while driving. The mileage is currently 91k miles. Now the lightening bolt symbol will not turn off and the vehicle will not accelerate over 39 miles. I have not been able to drive the vehicle for over a week.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 15 mph, the vehicle began to experience difficulty accelerating. The contact also stated that the brake pedal became difficult to depress and the throttle control indicator light illuminated on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not taken to have the failure diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and the contact was informed that the vehicle was not included in the recall associated with nhtsa campaign id number 10v234000 (vehicle speed control:accelerator pedal). The failure mileage was 80,500.
I was driving on the interstate going at 70-75 mph and all of a sudden my cruise control shut off.this wasn't the main issue though, as i tried to accelerate, it wouldn't work and almost felt like i was stuck in neutral.luckily i was close to my exit when this happened.as i started to accelerate off of the ramp to the highway, it went very slow (no more than 5 mph during the turn) and i was luckily able to make it back home.when i tried to start the car again, it acted like an old lawnmower trying to start and sounded awful.a few hours later i called a repair shop and when i went to start it, it acted like everything was fine other than the check engine light still being on.i was told some sort of sensor needed to be replaced and will be getting it repaired soon for around 75 bucks.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the electronic throttle control warning lamp illuminated. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure but did not offer any assistance. The vehicle was not repaired. The vin was not available. The failure and current mileage was 119,000.
I have 2007 caliber.i received recall letter about accelerator.i immediately took it in to local dealer the paperwork stated they reprogrammed something with the temp.it is now a month later.car started running hot a couple weeks ago.a few days ago i go to start my car up and the rpms ran up to 4 and stayed there without going down.it seemed like the gas pedal was stuck down.it stayed like this until i had to shut car off.called dealer and they advised me to not try to drive and have car towed to them.spoke with head of service and he stated that this in no way is related to the recall but this is exactly what the recall was for.they have had the car for a day now and still no verdict.i have approx. 62,000 miles.
My car started to stall a month ago after getting a new battery placed into my vehicle. The etc (engine throttle control) light would pop up on my dash. I could no longer accelerate. So once i went to a mechanic shop, they read the codes and it said i needed my camshaft position censor fixed. Problem occurred again days later. They then said it was the throttle body, they put in a new one. The problem occurred again, my car actually stalled while i was turning in a intersection. That is dangerous, especially when my daughter is in the car. I went back and they had to keep my car for a week because they said it was my ecm and they had to order the part. I got my car back on thursday june 29th, 2017 and my car stalled again on june 30th. I am quite frustrated at this point because i'm noticing that this has been an ongoing issue and dodge is not acknowledging that there is an issue. Someone will and probably already has died because of this issue.
In jan 2009 i purchased a 2007 dodge caliber. Immediately - i noticed the car surge forward (very slightly) even when my foot was off the gas pedal (coming to a stop). It was so slight that at first i thought it was my imagination. This problem has continued (to date). I am a confident driver, and this slight surge happening periodically (seems about every 100 miles or so) - did not feel like it posed a risk to me. I do warn people wanting to borrow my car to be careful and what to expect if it happens and how i handle it. I am reporting it now because i read in our local paper (in a very small ap story) that there is a probe and only 5 people reported have filed complaints. Although i feel, as an experience and confident driver i find the "problem" to be manageable too me. I would never let a "new" or "inexperienced" or "not skillful" or "elderly" driver behind the wheel of my car. I would be afraid that the surge may panic the driver and potentially cause them or others harm.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.the contact stated while traveling 50 mph, the accelerator pedal became stuck in the open throttle position and the vehicle independently accelerated to 80 mph. The contact was unable to stop the unintended acceleration by applying the brakes. The contact repeatedly tapped on the accelerator pedal until it released. The contact had not experienced the failure before incident. The dealer advised that the failure was caused by a fractured piece of the accelerator pedal assembly. The contact believed that failure to be the same as nhtsa campaign id number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control:accelerator pedal) which the vehicle was included in the recall but not yet repaired. The vin was not available. The failure mileage and current mileages was 67,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at an approximate speed of 15 mph, the vehicle abnormally accelerated to speeds of 75 mph. The accelerator pedal was stuck in the open throttle position. The contact was able to reach over and manually lift the accelerator pedal. The vehicle began to decrease in speed and came to a stop without incident. The contact then noticed the bronze bushing ring lying on the floor board of the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the dealer where they advised replacing the entire throttle assembly. The current and failure mileages were 59,000.
I have 2007 dodge caliber and was driving the electrical system was make the car shut down all my lights andsignal lights was not working. I was on the expressway and my signal lights or nothing was working.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving 55 mph, the accelerator pedal became detached from the vehicle. The vehicle was stopped in the middle of the highway because the contact could not accelerate to the shoulder. The police reported to the scene and pushed the vehicle to the shoulder where the vehicle was towed to the dealer. The dealer replaced the accelerator pedal but did not provide a cause of the failure. The failure mileage was 80,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was driving 35 mph when the brakes were depressed and the vehicle lunged forward abnormally. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but the manufacturer was not contacted. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 81,800 and the current mileage was 82,600.
I have a 2007 dodge caliber. While my husband was driving to work he had a problem with the gas pedal sticking and accelerating on its own. We brought it to our local chrysler dealership and paid $282.00 to have them install a new gas pedal assembly. After hearing about this recall i wanted to make sure to file a report/complaint. I still have the receipt from when the gas pedal assembly was replaced. I'm hoping to find out some information on how to be reimbursed. Please contact me via phone.[xxx] information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
While driving home from the airport on the highway, my car shut down unexpectedly.my electronic throttle light along with my check engine light came on.my power steering and power brakes seemed not to function as i had to muscle the car to the side of the road.thank goodness it was late at night and traffic was at a minimum.the car sputtered so bad it shut down on the road after i pulled over.after about 15 minutes, i started the car and limped it home.couldn't get the car to do more than 10mph.used my flashers the entire way home.
I had the gas pedal fixed with the 2010 recall of my particular car. I have 37,000 miles currently on my car. When i go to turn out of a gas station for example, the car loses acceleration and feels as if it going to stall. It does the same thing while going up a hill. The electronic throttle control warning light comes on. It goes off after the car regains normal speed. I feel that this should have been fixed with the gas pedal recall since they are related. I've gotten onto the dodge caliber forums and saw 100's of people with the same problem. Low miles and there etc light comes on as well. I feel this is a serious safety issue that should have be resolved along with the gas pedal recall. I took my car to auto zone and electronic throttle control was confirmed problem with uncertainty of how to fix the problem. All other diagnostics came back within normal limits.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the electronic throttle control failed and the throttle light illuminated intermittently. The contact also stated that while driving 70 mph, the vehicle decelerated to 45 mph and stalled. The failure was experienced numerous times. The vehicle was not taken to the dealer to have the failure diagnosed. The contact was not sure if the electronic throttle control failure caused the vehicle to stall. The manufacture was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 33,000 and the current mileage is 67,793. Updated 02/09/12*ljthe consumer stated a couple of months after purchasing the vehicle, it stalled.updated 02/24/12
I was traveling on i-40 when i hit a bump in the road, my engine light came on and stayed on from memphis, tn to jamestown, tn. I was not having any driving problems, the car drove fine. I took it in to advance auto and had them run the obd2 on it.it pulled 4 codes and they are as follows...p2006intake manifold runner- stuck closed. I already changed that part on 6/6/15p1607 powertrain control module - internal shutdown. P0722output shaft speed sensorp0717turbine input shaft speed sensornow as i said, my car seems to run fine and i have no idea why these sensors are showing up. What can i do to reset the codes, i already disconnected the battery and left it over night but engine light is still on. What can i do?thank you[xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).'
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While exiting a parking lot, the vehicle accelerated without warning into a busy street, crossed over train tracks, and crashed into a train. The passenger side of the vehicle went under the train. The air bags failed to deploy. There were no injuries and a police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The dealer and manufacturer were not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 163,000. *dt*dt *dt
My 2007 dodge caliber sxt has a problem with the throttle. The pedal sticks, causing the acceleratorto raise the rpms to about 5000 while driving. I noticed a copper bushing on my floor mat but had no idea that it came from the pedal assy. I will take my vehicle in tomorrow. This problem is occurringvery frequent and i am afraid that this will cause some serious injury or death. Updated 05/20/10.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the accelerator pedal became stuck causing an unintended acceleration. The contact also stated that the front driver side door handle and locking mechanism fractured and the door could not be secured. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, who diagnosed that the door hinge needed to be replaced. No further information was available on the conditions of the vehicle. The initial failure was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failures. The failure mileage was 55,000.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated when traveling at speeds of at least 60 mph and when the accelerator pedal is half depressed, there was an unusual click followed by a momentary sticking of the pedal. The contact would tap on the accelerator several times before it would release and return to the idle position. The failure had occurred several times but has not yet been taken to the dealer for diagnostic testing or repairs. The approximate failure mileage was 28,000 and the current mileage was 45,700.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 25 mph, the accelerator pedal became stuck without warning. The contact also mentioned that the windshield wipers, defroster, and radio became inoperable. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the failure could not be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The vin was not included in nhtsa campaign number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.updated 05/17/16*ljthe consumer stated the crossbar was repaired.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving approximately 40 to 50 mph, all of the lights on the instrumental panel illuminated and the engine began to lose power before there was an increase in the engine rpms to 8,000. The vehicle then began to suddenly accelerate and when the brakes were engaged, the smart braking system activated. As a result, the vehicle fish tailed. The contact lost control of the vehicle, but was able to maneuver to the side of the road. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, but offered no assistance because the vehicle was not included in the recall associated with nhtsa campaign id number 10v234000 (vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal) and the warranty expired. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were 88,000. The consumer stated around 30,000 he began to experience major electrical problem. The lights, car alarm, power windows and power locks were all affected. The radio, horn and led panels were having minor issues.the vehicle was still under warranty, so therefore the dealer fixed the vehicle in a timely fashion. The vehicle performed as designed up until 50,000 miles when the problems returned. However, only the power locks and car alarm were affected. The vehicle was no longer warranty and since they were minor, the consumer learned to just live with. However, on august 4, 2011 as the consumer was driving, the vehicle suddenly went haywire. The instrument panel was blinking on and off, the dome lights were flashing, the radio shut off and the brakes stopped functioning. The vehicle the accelerated out of control and the consumer lost control of the vehicle. The abs light illuminated and the vehicle started braking itself to compensate for the acceleration. The vehicle then fish tailed as the consumer was trying to make a left turn. Updated 09/29/11. Jb
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving approximately 5-10 mph and attempting a turn, the vehicle rapidly accelerated. When the brakes were engaged the vehicle failed to slow down and crashed into an unoccupied parked vehicle which caused a chain reaction involving another unoccupied parked vehicle. The air bags did not deploy with the impact. The contact sustained several bruises to the body and a neck injury. A police report was filed. The vehicle sustained substantial body damages and was towed to a collision center. An independent investigator, who was referred by the manufacturer, inspected the vehicle and was unable detect an acceleration failure. There was a recall associated with nhtsa campaign id number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control: accelerator pedal) however, the contacts vin was not included in the recall. The failure mileage was 12,000.updated 4/11/2011 updated 1/13/2012 *ln
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving 55 mph, the accelerator pedal snapped and went underneath the brake pedal when it was depressed.as a result, the brake pedal could not be depressed.the vehicle was pulled off the road and the emergency brake was applied in order to stop the vehicle.the vehicle was towed to the dealer and they replaced the plastic pedal with another plastic pedal. The current and failure mileages were 36,000. Updated 02/15/08.*lj
1.events leading up to the failure, accelerating from light making a left hand turn.2. Failure and its consequences, bushing of gas pedal fell out and caused the engine to serge to 5,000 rpm, applied brakes and rate of acceleration slowed, had to turn engine off to bring vehicle to a stop. 3. What was done to correct the failure; service done by dealer, replaced gas pedal assembly [ 04891623ar 06068b3b 24936f 43595418901 lhd ] (old part is available).
2007 dodge caliber. Consumer expresses discontent regarding recall repairsregarding the accelerator pedal.*tgwthe consumer stated his daughters vehicle is handicap equipped. The dealer removed the boot from the gas pedal, but they didn't do anything to the pedal.
I bought a 2007, dodge caliber. Drove it for a while. Then as i was driving in a school x-ing my accelerator stuck. I had a terrible accident with the woman stopped in front of me. My car was totaled. A week later i received a recall on the accelerator, after the damage was done. I have had no compensation, and am without a vehicle. I must work. Help me please!
Windshield is always being oiled up due to dashboard deteriorating. This is causing poor visibility when driving into the sun and when driving at night. Windshield has been cleaned multiple times to where it has no oil on windshield and within a few hours it is back to where it was before. This problem is generally worse during the summer months. This has been happening since vehicle has been owned.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 25 mph, the accelerator pedal became stuck without warning. The contact also mentioned that the windshield wipers, defroster, and radio became inoperable. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the failure could not be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The vin was not included in nhtsa campaign number: 10v234000 (vehicle speed control). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 130,000.updated 05/17/16*ljthe consumer stated the crossbar was repaired.
Backseat window exploded from the inside, while parked in driveway, all windows rolled up and outside temp of 80 . Contacted safelite glass repair, was told, we have repaired 19000 2007 dodge caliber windows...they are familiar with this complaint
I own a 2007 dodge caliber sxt. Back in march of this year, the driver's side headlight went out. After replacing the bulb, it still did not work. I looked online for some potential enlightenment as to why and found a multitude of message boards and consumer websites stating this is a common problem with the 2007 dodge calibers. It starts with losing a headlight and then escalates to loss of power to the headlights, blinkers, hazard lights, windshield wipers, and sometimes the heating/cooling system and/or radio. Initially, in march, i hadn't experienced that yet. Today, i was driving through a city at approximately 30mph when i went to take a turn and noticed my right blinker wasn't working, so i tried the blinker for the left. That too was not working. Neither were my hazard lights or windshield wipers. I was far from home and afraid to shut the car off, for fear it would not restart so i kept driving home cautiously, trying not to change lanes. It began pouring rain and i was on the highway. I had no headlights, no wipers, and no blinkers or hazards to signal i was going over into the breakdown lane. Once in the breakdown lane, i was not easily visible to the other cars speeding by because of the amount of rain and the fact that i had no hazard lights to rely on. I could easily have been hit or hit someone else while trying to navigate through the rain to safety with no working blinkers, hazards, headlights, or wipers! the worst part is, this is a startlingly common issue with the year, make, and model and dodge is not offering a recall for this issue with the tipm (totally integrated power module), where the problem is stemming from. The dealership wants to charge me $99 for diagnostics and then over $1,000 for a new tipm. I want to start a class action lawsuit to get dodge to recall all of the vehicles having these safety issues caused by the tipm failure!!!!
While driving on the highway my windshield wipers started going very slow even though they were on high, eventually stopping all together during a heavy rainstorm causing me to have very poor visibility. I assumed it was a bad wiper motor but it ended up being the tipm( control module). Judging from all the forums on the internet, this is a very dangerous, exspensive , common problem that needs to be addressed before someone gets in a serious accident.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber rt. The contact was driving approximately 50 mph in heavy rain when the windshield wipers were activated but failed to operate. The contact had to move off the roadway until the raining ceased. The windshield wipers were then reactivated but failed within seconds. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where the mechanic diagnosed that the total integrated power module (tipm) had to be replaced and the vehicle would be repaired once the part became available. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the defect. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.
Ir conditioning compressor failed and was replaced under extended warranty in january 2013.new a/c compressor installed, but a/c clutch fell off fourteen months later as i was turning a corner.i was told that because of the compressor failure, (which one was not referenced) there are metal shavings in the a/c coolant lines and the entire system needs replacement.service adviser stated that he has received multiple complaints of this and that i will be unable to use vehicle defrost due to this and it is the snowiest time of the year.dodge will not replace, as vehicle and part are now both out of warranty.replacement part only under warranty for 12 months, but have not had to engage either defrost or a/c in the past 8 months until two weeks ago, when the replacement failed and the clutch broke off.using the defrost could result in the unit overheating, causing an engine fire or other failure.
I was driving down the interstate during a heavy rain storm and my windshield wipers stopped working.i turned them off and back on but they would not turn back on.based on research conducted, and similar issues found during the research, all signs point to the totally integrated power module.this is completely unsafe and i can't believe this part isn't weather proof when it controls so many vital parts of the vehicle.with all the issues i'm also shocked to know there hasn't been a recall on this product.this same style product is used in multiple dodge vehicles and other chrysler / jeep vehicles.those vehicles also exhibit the same issue.
A couple of weeks ago i was on my way to work and turned on my signal light to make a turn.when i turned my signal light on i noticed that the interior overhead light went on.i found it strange and thought my door may have been opened.a few days later on my way to work the signal lights were no longer working.this is where my serious concerns began.i have a 30 minute commute to work and switch lanes or make turns quite often en route.it gets worse.after a long day at work i ran out to my vehicle to avoid gettin soaked in the rain and when i attempted to turn on my wipers i was infuriated to find out they were no longer working either.needless to say the vehicle is parked in my driveway.fog lights don't work, turn signals, wipers and highbeams are no longer working.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving at various speeds, the vehicle made an abnormal noise in the front end. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the driver and passenger side ball joints and control arms failed and needed to be repaired. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure recurred. While driving at various speeds, the windshield wipers would independently activate. While driving at various speeds, the vehicle stalled without warning. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the alternator failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. While attempting to start the vehicle, it failed to start. The contact stated that the electronic throttle control warning indicator would illuminate on the instrument panel. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.
2007 dodge caliber - totally integrated power module (tipm) unit issuelow beam headlights stopped working while operating vehicle.only high beam lights work.local garage diagnosed problem as faulty totally integrated power module, with a repair cost of $1225.headlights are a necessary component to the safe operation of a vehicle.dodge ought to look into the issue of faulty tipm units and the safety implications inherent in failure of the component.the safety of the families traveling in vehicles manufactured by dodge ought to be of the greatest concern.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving 30 mph, cold water dripped from the dashboard and then the water turned extremely hot.the dealer stated that the heater core failed and made repairs.the current is 36,000 and the failure mileage was 1000.updated 01-15-08.updated
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact was traveling at an unknown speed when the driver side door panel suddenly caught on fire. The contact was able to extinguish the fire with a bottle of water. The fire department stated that the failure was caused by the power window motor. The dealer advised that the vehicle was no longer under warranty and would not service the vehicle. The manufacturer advised they had not received any similar complaints to hers and would not provide any further assistance. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure and current mileages were approximately 80,000.
When it is cold out, and there is any type of precipitation.the power windows will not roll down. You have to either beat on the windows, wait over an hour for the car to warm up, or use a spray dicer (have not tried this yet).
My 2007 dodge caliber has experience a pulling in the front end that started after 3,000 miles. The car has been at the shop 3 times in a time period expanding approx. 6-12 weeks. The dealer working on the car could not achieve success after three attempts. The car is now at another dealer who has had the car over 48 hrs with no response to the front end issue. The car now at 7400 miles as a front brake "jatter" and is at the dealer for this as well. Also, the car's rear washer fluid nozzle leaks at highway speed and the stereo's sound will distort suddenly without warning. I am beyond upset with how much problems i have had on a 19,000.00$brand new automobile. I do not want to believe that all chrysler vehicles have this kind of issues. I also wanted to believe that my problem was minor and would be just fine once it was fixed. However, the problems just keep coming. I purchased a new car in good faith that i receiveddependable transportation. I don't think i have gotten the fair end of the deal. I would be a happy customer if daimler chrysler refunded my money on this car. In trade i will purchase anew dodge 1500 pickup. I feel like if daimler chrysler will take care of me, i will be a happy customer who will continue to purchase their products. I don't want to take my business elsewhere but i will do what is needed.
First heavy rainfall of the spring, travel in rush hour traffic toward seattle. I had not had to use my windshield wipers on anything but intermittent for several months.when needed for the heavier rains and traffic this morning, the wipers failed to work in the primary wiper function (continual operation-neither slow or fast).it was necessary to hold the wiper control arm in the down position to keep the wipers working thus not allowing me to keep two hands on the steering wheel.i contacted my dealer and was told there was no recall on this issue, the recall associated to the nitro parts (chrysler j28/campaign 09v438000-3 nov 2009) did not apply.i will be checking the part number of the pcm for both vehicles to determine if the same part is used in each production line.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber.while driving at an unknown speed in the rain, the windshield wipers stopped working.the contact took his vehicle to the dealer and was informed that the windshield wiper motor and tipm were faulty and needed to be replaced.the failure mileage was 48,500.
Husband was driving our 2007 dodge caliber making a u-turn and noticed a jerk in the steering. Proceeded to drive to our complex as it was only two miles away. Made a second u-turn and same thing happened. Once in our complex and proceeded to go over the first speed bump. The car stopped with the front driver side dropped. He exited the car to see what happened and noticed the subframe had snappened in half and was rusted beyond extreme.
So , the car i purchased on aug.2nd, of this year... Has many issues! first of all about 2 weeks into having the vehicle... I needed exhaust work done... Shortly after that.. I began experiencing some pulling to the right when i touched the break pedal, now i'm experiencing some weird situation under the front of the car. Which in fact is causing the car to shake and now when i tap the break to stop the vehicle theirs a loud noise and when i give it gas.. It shreeks! it's very terrifying to say the least... I was unable to drive it back to my residence... I'm unable to drive this vehicle at all
Noticed that the front tires on the vehicle were worn down to the steel radial only on the inside edge, all the way to the steel radial, even though the tires were only a year old.took it to the shop and found out the ball joint and front control arms needed to be replaced.auto shop said we were fortunate that we noticed the problem, and suggested not driving any further until it was fixed. Also told us they had two other calibers this year with same problem.we took the car to the dealership and they confirmed the problem and want to charge $1400 to fix and replace our relatively new tires.upon researching many owners have had this same problem.just grateful that we found the problem while parked and before the tires blew on the highway or suspension became even looser.
With only 38,550 miles on my car (which has been well cared for) i had to have the wheel bearings replaced.when i picked it up, my mechanic (who has been the only mechanic i have used for over 10 years) told me that the ball joints were also totally shot & had to be replaced.after a little research i found out the danger i was putting myself & others in, had him do the ball joints the next day.these 2 parts seemed to need replacement way before they should have.the dealership here (service person/al) told me since i was over my 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty, (and haven't been there in 2 years)there was nothing they could do for me. Immediately after the work was completed by my mechanic, i stopped at the bank.there i saw another dodge caliber pull in.while in the bank, i spoke with that driver.she told me she just had the wheel bearings done also.im not sure what year her car was but it appeared to be newer than mine!what's going on with these cars?shouldn't the dealer have had a little more interest when my actual mileage was only 2000 over the warranty.they kept pointing out that the car was over 5 years old & only had a 3 year warranty.to me that has no significance...the mileage is what concerns me.i hope others will take note & bring this to the attention of chrysler before there are related accidents or deaths.i did try to find a number online to call chrysler, only to come up with sales...i wouldn't buy another!please inform me of any actions taken.thank you
My 2007 dodge caliper se was equipped factory with 15 in steel wheels. Shortly after purchase i noticed a extreme vibration from 60-70mph. I returned it to the dealership multiple times and had the wheels balanced and rotated several times, test to make sure the wheels were not out of round, and finally the tires replaced. I had the factory tires inspected at one of the dunlop retailers and they were to be fine and that the issue was with the wheels. All of the wheels. Replacing the tires did not resolve the issue or make it any better. None of the repairs did. After much research on this i found that the vibration is not apparent in the aluminum wheels so i opted to pay out of pocket to have them placed on my vehicle. The issue has since been resolved with the purchase of the new wheels plus tires with and expense of $600.00+. I did attempt to report this issue to dodge directly but have only received the response of "no recall".
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. While driving 40 mph, the subframe fractured on the vehicle. In addition, the contact replaced the tires on three occasions and the rear wheel bearings were replaced three times. Furthermore, the ignition switch caught fire. The contact extinguished the fire. The vehicle was towed and repaired by a dealer and an independent mechanic. The manufacturer was not made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 162,000.
After two sets of tires we were told the lower ball joints had to be replaced on front end. Had to park the car and wait a week before the parts came in. We were told it wasn't safe to drive and there should be a recall due to the many problems of this nature. Also the water pump had to be replaced two months prior to this problem. This vehicle was serviced each time at the dodge dealer who informed us these problem should not have happen so soon.
My wife was driving my car heard a squealing noise and could not control the car. The steering seemed very lose. She was by a garage and stopped and left the car there. Today they looked at the car and send the undercarriage was shot and could not be fixed.. Can chrysler be notified of this and should we get a second opinion? its a good thing this happened on a back road with no traffic or my wife could have been seriously injured.
In the midst of me driving across the intersection... My car began to shake uncontrollably... I had to get of the road because my wheel on the driver's side was disconnected from they entire car... Due to sever corrosion, yu under vehicle.. When i saw photos... I was terrifed!! my life was on jeopardy.. The first day i purchased this vehicle... I am sending photos to help support my claims..
I've had numerous issues with the vehicle suspension since i purchased this vehicle brand new (a 2007( around thanksgiving 2006. The first issue involved the steering and was told that both front struts, control arms and outer tie rod ends would require replacement - at 6k miles! this repair also involved replacing the rear brake shoes. The steering was making a grinding noise when parking or parallel parking at very low speeds. I had this repair performed using parts i purchased myself and a local mechanic i found on craigslist who was willing to do the labor for about $300 including the necessary 4 wheel alignment. The parts cost about $500 or so.another issue that has been present since i brought the car home has been this rattle and clunk in the rear suspension. It seems that nobody has been able to pinpoint what the exact problem may be. I replaced the rear shocks myself thinking that might be the problem, but it still makes this annoying noise. The car has no rear sway bar. I was told it's not a control issue and have "lived with it" as annoying as it is all these years. It seems it has not affected the vehicle control, but it's a nuissance. I'm getting ready to fix this problem myself as it must be the rear control arms or toe links. This always occurs while driving over an uneven surface like a gravel driveway or a very bumpy road.it also seems that the front tie rods appear to be in need of replacement yet again as i inpsected these myself and noted theres no boot on them and getting some steering noises again, including a clunk while steering or braking at very low speeds. Might need another set of control arms (not sure yet)really feel as if dodge should address and acknowledge this as a defect and pay for these repairs - as i've been reading here and on plenty of caliber forums i'm definitely not the only one who's had these exact problems.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that upon turning the steering wheel or driving over a bump, there was an abnormal noise coming from the driver side of the vehicle. Upon taking the vehicle for an oil change, an independent mechanic discovered that the crossmember bar on the front end of the vehicle was severely corroded. There were no warning lights associated with the failure. The mechanic informed the contact that the corrosion was a known defect and to call the manufacturer for additional information. The contact called zeigler chrysler dodge jeep ram of downers grove located at (2311 ogden ave, downers grove, il 60515), larry roesch chrysler jeep dodge ram located at (200 w grand ave., elmhurst, il 60126), and dupage cdjr located at (433 e north ave., glendale heights, il 60139), where the contact was informed that the manufacturer provided an extended warranty on the vehicle however, the warranty period had expired. The manufacturer was also notified of the failure and provided the same information. The vehicle had not been repaired. The failure mileage was 160,133.
The contacts owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that while driving over 28 mph there was a noise in the rear of the vehicle. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer and was told that the noise came from the rear hub bearing, because it was worn out. The dealer also stated that both the rear lower control arms were worn out as well which also caused the tires to wear because of the rear hub failure. The contact was told that the nhtsa campaign number 07v196000 (wheels: caps/cover/hub) was related and could cause unintended movement under certain conditions; however, the vin was not included. The failure mileage was unknown, but the current mileage was 51,250.
The first indication of the problem was as i was driving at higher speeds (above 50 mph). I noticed a definite shaking which i took to mean that the tires were not balanced properly. I had the vehicle checked and was told that the front ball joints, control arms and tie rods were worn out. I replaced these parts and the tires as they had begun to wear badly. I am now about to replace the same parts for the fourth time! there are also major problems with the rear suspension. I am replacing the rear control arms and lateral links for the third time! i drive a lot and at first put the problem down to the number of miles i drive. The vehicle is now at approximately 211,000 miles, but this is ridiculous! the last time the front suspension wore out, the right front wheel nearly fell off!the vehicle began to shake severely and as i was a mile or two to my destination, i slowed to a crawl and when i arrived i was nearly sick when i saw how bad it was. Now the front and the rear are bad at the same time. Help me out please! i'm at my wits end as i still owe someone money i had to borrow the last time i needed this fixed. I really don't want a car payment now as my wife lost her job recently.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact statedthat the vehicle experienced an increased stopping distance when applying the brakes and the brakes would emit a loud squeaking noise. There was a recall associated with nhtsa campaign id number: 07v196000 (wheels:cap/cover/hub), but the vin was not included. Also, the exterior headlights would illuminate intermittently. The dealer was not notified. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure, but denied any assistance with repairs. The failure and current mileages were 53,000. Updated 1/13/12*ljthe consumer stated the high beams would come on, but when she hit the dimmer switch, the dim lights would not come on.also, the tail light was not working properly. The dealer stated there was water in the light assembly. Updated 02/2/9/12updated 03/07/12
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