We found the following complaints for DODGE CALIBER AWD (2007)
Read complaints for DODGE CALIBER AWD (2007)
Fiance had a seizure and car went to side of road. Car flopped on the left driver side and crashed into trees. Air bags did not deploy, seat belts were intact and working. Previously, seat belts were found to unlatch at times when driver was in car and car was in motion. Amazed that seat belts worked because it saved our lives. Airbags did not deploy.
Head on collision in 2007 dodge caliber.airbags did not deploy. Driver fractured back in 2 locations has also incurred neck and leg injuries.
One day as i came back to my car and unlocked my door with my car key button, i noticed the passenger headlight was out. The next day i went to buy a new headlight bulb to replace it, except it didn't work when i tried the new one. I went to a local mechanic to ask what was wrong.he told me it is something to do with the wires and would cost a lot of money to fix it, let alone the part itself. I researched other people complain about the same problem.i have been rejected a registration sticker because it is not safe for it to be out. I also have been pulled over by the cops and was told to get it fixed.i would, but it costs too much to fix. I believe this should be a valid reason for it to be recalled as soon as possible,due to safety of the driver and passengers.i would also like to add the check engine light is also on.
Driving home from work, right headlight stopped working. Bought replacement bulbs, they do not work. Reading up, seems to be the tipm module. I cannot afford to replace this (over $1200). Dashboard information lights (such as brake and tpm) come on and go off indiscriminately.
We started the vehicle using the remote start, and then i inserted the keys in the ignition and turned them to disengage the automatic shutoff.then placed our 3yr old in child seat and closed both doors on the passenger side.i was walking around the car to get in the drivers seat and heard the automatic locks engage.i was locked out with our 3yr old locked inside a running vehicle.had to call emergency services to have them unlock the car.never heard of a vehicle's automatic locks engaging with the ignition engaged and running.
Stuck in limp mode
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber and the following things have happened that resulted in a accident.1.) the blower motor went out only 2 months after buying the car.2.) the steering wheel controls for the volume and changing the channels have never worked.i have brought the car into the shop 14 times and the issue has never been fixed.3.) first brake failure was about a year after buying the car and was due to the booster cylinder and master cylinder failing.ourisman dodge put me into a rental car for about 10 days. 4.) cruise control has a mind of its own and could also be a reason why the car was in a accident5.) transmission issue, the car has already had transmission issues where it was not able to upshift while driving and the automatic transmission was not able to be used.6.) computer issues, when my battery died the entire computer went out and $300 later had to be reloaded and fixed7.) the exhaust system has already failed on the car8.) i have had the engine light go on 3 times with different sensors failing needing to be replaced.9.) the control arm and suspension has currently failed and now has to be replaced for around $2000.10.) everything leaks and retains water.the back lights fill with water and i have had it in the shop for this issue 3 times.the doors also fill gallons and gallons of water which will take 5 to 10 minutes to drain sometimes.the car has been brought in for that issue 2 times and never repaired.11.) many seals have rotted in the car causing leaks and other issues to occur.12.) second brake failure, this led to a 3 car accident and the totaling of multiple cars.the brake pedal shook and then went straight to the floor.cruise control was on during this braking attempt.the car hit another car going 51 mph.dodge has been contacted to investigate and they have not gotten back to me at this time.they were contacted on the date of the accident.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
On 10/6/14 i was driving to school at 6:00 am on a single lane back road. Without warning the speedometer stopped working (went to zero), and the abs, brake, anti-skid and check engine lights came on. Because of my location i had to keep driving until i got to a safe area. The whole time there was no way of telling my speed or know if my brakes were working normal. After i shut it off and restarted, it went back to normal. When i got home we checked the error codes and found "u1110 lost vehicle speed, u1120 lost wheel distance and u0416 invalid data received from dynamic ctr 1. We cleared the codes to see if it happened again. It was fine until this morning 10/10/14. I started the car and after about 30 seconds or so the same thing happened. I drove another car to school. My dad checked and found the same error codes. Now i don't think it is safe to drive, not knowing when it may occur again. I looked on line and noticed others with the same problem. Can you help? my dad is handling this problem for me so i am putting down his contact info.
I purchased this 2007 dodge caliber rt awd in dec of 2012. The dealership grand chrysler dodge jeep in lowell, michigan on main st, reported to me the consumer, before purchase, at my request, a vehicle history stating 1 owner vehicle with no accidents. Thank god i did get the warranty because less than 14 days fresh off the lot, the vehicle loss all power and barely driveable, the car, while i was driving it, on the highway around 55 to 60 mph, lost speed real quickly and and could barely drive it to get it off the road. The vehicle coded at service shop 02 censors and catillatic convertor, the vehicle was at the dealer service dept and back and forth from my home for more than a month, until finally the caliber had to be seen by a service representative from chrysler/dodge and now pushing 2 months without the vehicle not only did the 02 sensors and catillatic convertor had to be replaced, but the computer too. Got the vehicle back drove it 3 months and the vehicle had grinding in the front end,electrical seat heating and blinkers systems were malfunctioning, each tim the engine light came on and the vehicle remained sluggish and unsafe to drive, but the dealership lacked concern and made me drive it in the unsafe condition from west olive michigan to lowell.oct 2014 the vehicle almost caused me to get into a serious rear end accident. I was driving 60mph on the highway and it went from 60 mph to 10 mph just like that cars on the highway swirved to miss hitting me and i was almost rear ended. The car completely stalled. A gentleman stopped to help me push it off the road.. Vehicle and i sat for alomost an hour waiting for tow service. Service dept. Coded the vehicle with a crank shaft censor problem and a recall as well for the front end cross member rusts out and cause bad settling and excessive tire pressure from the errosion not supporting the sub frame.
The rear windshield wiper stopped functioning.a dealer re-flashed the computer at no charge.repair lasted one year.the wiper is again not functioning but now the dealer wants to charge $100.00 to reflash the tipm.
I purchased a 2007 dodge caliber on november 15, 2015 and had a problem with the acceleration and the car hesitating as if it were a manual shift.i contacted the dealer who asked me to bring the car in.i took the car in the the service alleged that they looked at the car and said that there was nothing wrong with it and that was how the car accelerated because of the kind of transmission that this car has.the car continued to have this jerking, hesitating problem until finally the "throttle body" light came on and the car shut down and i was not able to accelerate above 25 and had to exit the highway because i did not want to get killed because of all the kinds of trucks and other on the highway as well.i am now without a working vehicle because of the throttle body and have to find a way and spend more money to get it repaired.i paid $8000 cash to this dealer and i am very disappointed and stressed.please help.
While driving at night the dash lights went out leaving me driving in the dark with our being able to see the speedometer or fuel gauge, etc. All other interior lights continued to operate. The lights then came back on for a few minutes and went out again. It can happen anytime while driving in the dark. Went to the dealer and they said it was the gauge cluster. It still need to be replaced.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber awd. While driving 40 mph, the check engine warning indicator illuminated and the vehicle stalled. The contact was unable to restart the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence where an independent mechanic replaced the alternator; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was not taken to an authorized dealer to be diagnosed or repaired. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer were notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 172,227.
Car was working fine. Purchased april 26 2009 with 12000 miles on it. On fathers day of this year, car intermittently stalled on freeway while going around 65 mph.happened 1 more time on freeway, 2x on road, 2x in parking lots since then. Dodge cannot find anything wrong with car. - replaces ignition switch. Intermittent stalling happens again. --
I bought my 2007 dodge caliber awd in may of 2012. After i had my daughter in march 2014, i realized that my car was going crazy! she was in the nicu and i had to go see her as often as i could, which these problems prolonged her stay. When i started the car, sometimes it wouldn't start....bought a new battery, so that wasn't it... Then my hazards, gauges (except gas gauge) and a bunch of lights all flashed and it dinged at the same time. I havent been able to get a tow to the dealership, get to doctor appointments ( i am disabled) or get my daughter to her appointments. This has been a huge burden on me and my family, and i wish i never bought this car, and i will never buy from them again. Ever.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber awd. While driving approximately 30 mph, the vehicle started to lose power and acceleration. The vehicle also hesitated. The vehicle was driven to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the throttle body failed and needed replacement. The dealer was not contacted. The contact also stated that the throttle body was replaced five years ago by salt lake valley dodge in salt lake city, utah. The manufacturer was not contacted. The vehicle was being repaired by an independent mechanic. The approximate failure mileage was 56,000.
Engine stalled after filling up with fuel. The first incident happened while pulling into traffic, from the gas station where i just filled up. At later dates, it happened several more times while both moving and idling in park, but always right after filling up the tank. The car would shutter and stall for the first minute or so. If i was able to punch the throttle quickly enough i could sometimes avoid the stall. If the car stalled, it would always restart and eventually clear up after running for a few minutes. Once i realized when and why this was happening, i began stopping a gallon short from a full tank whenever fueling up. This has stopped the issue, but not fixed the problem. I see where this issue has been addressed with other dodge and chrysler models, but nothing seems to have been done for the caliber/avenger vehicle class. From what i have read, it is definitely a problem in these vehicles as well.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber awd. While driving 40 mph, the check engine warning indicator illuminated and the vehicle stalled. The contact was unable to restart the vehicle. The vehicle was towed to the contact's residence where an independent mechanic replaced the alternator; however, the failure recurred. The vehicle was not taken to an authorized dealer to be diagnosed or repaired. Neither the dealer nor the manufacturer were notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 172,227.
Vehicle stalls in traffic after filling tank with fuel. After stalling a couple of times condition clears.have avoided filling tank but that does not always happen and stalling creates hazardous condition when wife drives car and has grand child in car.
One day as i came back to my car and unlocked my door with my car key button, i noticed the passenger headlight was out. The next day i went to buy a new headlight bulb to replace it, except it didn't work when i tried the new one. I went to a local mechanic to ask what was wrong.he told me it is something to do with the wires and would cost a lot of money to fix it, let alone the part itself. I researched other people complain about the same problem.i have been rejected a registration sticker because it is not safe for it to be out. I also have been pulled over by the cops and was told to get it fixed.i would, but it costs too much to fix. I believe this should be a valid reason for it to be recalled as soon as possible,due to safety of the driver and passengers.i would also like to add the check engine light is also on.
I purchased this 2007 dodge caliber rt awd in dec of 2012. The dealership grand chrysler dodge jeep in lowell, michigan on main st, reported to me the consumer, before purchase, at my request, a vehicle history stating 1 owner vehicle with no accidents. Thank god i did get the warranty because less than 14 days fresh off the lot, the vehicle loss all power and barely driveable, the car, while i was driving it, on the highway around 55 to 60 mph, lost speed real quickly and and could barely drive it to get it off the road. The vehicle coded at service shop 02 censors and catillatic convertor, the vehicle was at the dealer service dept and back and forth from my home for more than a month, until finally the caliber had to be seen by a service representative from chrysler/dodge and now pushing 2 months without the vehicle not only did the 02 sensors and catillatic convertor had to be replaced, but the computer too. Got the vehicle back drove it 3 months and the vehicle had grinding in the front end,electrical seat heating and blinkers systems were malfunctioning, each tim the engine light came on and the vehicle remained sluggish and unsafe to drive, but the dealership lacked concern and made me drive it in the unsafe condition from west olive michigan to lowell.oct 2014 the vehicle almost caused me to get into a serious rear end accident. I was driving 60mph on the highway and it went from 60 mph to 10 mph just like that cars on the highway swirved to miss hitting me and i was almost rear ended. The car completely stalled. A gentleman stopped to help me push it off the road.. Vehicle and i sat for alomost an hour waiting for tow service. Service dept. Coded the vehicle with a crank shaft censor problem and a recall as well for the front end cross member rusts out and cause bad settling and excessive tire pressure from the errosion not supporting the sub frame.
In july 2009 i returned to the dealer for a service, i also complained about the car intermittently not accelerating properly from a stop or near stop, it hesitated dramatically. The dealer could not replicate the problem and could do nothing to fix it. This is still an ongoing issue.then in june of 2013, while driving on a four lane highway at approximately 65 miles an hour, the car lost all acceleration, a moment later started a warning beep and the check engine light came on. I immediately put on the flashers while trying to maneuver from the middle lane to the shoulder of the road, after a week at the mechanic he called me to inform me that it could be the crank sensor, which was a known issue with this model vehicle. He replaced the sensor and i was informed that the issue was corrected. I didn't get five miles from the mechanic when the car again lost all acceleration and the engine light came on again. The mechanic towed the car back the next day. He had the representative from chrysler to his shop several times regarding the issue. The rep thought the computer needed an update and that is what was done, it did not solve the issue. (i was never notified by chrysler that the computer had updates that were required.) the mechanic had several other professionals look at the car, all of which were not finding the problem. They also had no new computer codes, which was when they realized the power train control module was the problem. This took a month to solve and the cost was $1130.
Car only has 71,000 miles on it. On my way home from work i heard a clunking noise coming from the front end of my car so i took it to a mechanic. After inspection, mechanic reported that sub frame around lower a arm was rotted and entire back side of cradle also was rotted. Everything else under car looks new, we just don't understand why just this part of car is rotting. Chrysler should have this vehicle recalled, after doing research on this vehicle and finding this being one of the common defects.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber and the following things have happened that resulted in a accident.1.) the blower motor went out only 2 months after buying the car.2.) the steering wheel controls for the volume and changing the channels have never worked.i have brought the car into the shop 14 times and the issue has never been fixed.3.) first brake failure was about a year after buying the car and was due to the booster cylinder and master cylinder failing.ourisman dodge put me into a rental car for about 10 days. 4.) cruise control has a mind of its own and could also be a reason why the car was in a accident5.) transmission issue, the car has already had transmission issues where it was not able to upshift while driving and the automatic transmission was not able to be used.6.) computer issues, when my battery died the entire computer went out and $300 later had to be reloaded and fixed7.) the exhaust system has already failed on the car8.) i have had the engine light go on 3 times with different sensors failing needing to be replaced.9.) the control arm and suspension has currently failed and now has to be replaced for around $2000.10.) everything leaks and retains water.the back lights fill with water and i have had it in the shop for this issue 3 times.the doors also fill gallons and gallons of water which will take 5 to 10 minutes to drain sometimes.the car has been brought in for that issue 2 times and never repaired.11.) many seals have rotted in the car causing leaks and other issues to occur.12.) second brake failure, this led to a 3 car accident and the totaling of multiple cars.the brake pedal shook and then went straight to the floor.cruise control was on during this braking attempt.the car hit another car going 51 mph.dodge has been contacted to investigate and they have not gotten back to me at this time.they were contacted on the date of the accident.
Failed emissions inspection, engine light indictor. Based on informationobtained from the obd the pollution control system.
2007 dodge caliber awd suffered power loss, loss of braking resulting in flashing electronic throttle control light and traction control warning lights to activate. Vehicle became undrivable and had to be towed to dealer for repair. Dealer reported that replacement of throttle body was required at a cost of 500.00. Defective front ball joint was reported and replaced. A separate complaint for this has been submitted.
Odor released through vents when air conditioning or defogger is in operations.i have noticed this strong stench; it is quite nauseating.my son has complained about it.it is difficult to continue with the operation of either device with this odor.as far as i can surmised, it smells like antifreeze.
Dt*: the contact stated the check engine light illuminated in the vehicle.once the gas pedal was depressed, the vehicle would not accelerate properly causing the vehicle to drive slowly.on another occasion while pulling out of the parking lot at work, the vehicle totally failed to accelerate and had to be towed to the dealership. The dealership determined the cam speed sensor was bad.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber and the following things have happened that resulted in a accident.1.) the blower motor went out only 2 months after buying the car.2.) the steering wheel controls for the volume and changing the channels have never worked.i have brought the car into the shop 14 times and the issue has never been fixed.3.) first brake failure was about a year after buying the car and was due to the booster cylinder and master cylinder failing.ourisman dodge put me into a rental car for about 10 days. 4.) cruise control has a mind of its own and could also be a reason why the car was in a accident5.) transmission issue, the car has already had transmission issues where it was not able to upshift while driving and the automatic transmission was not able to be used.6.) computer issues, when my battery died the entire computer went out and $300 later had to be reloaded and fixed7.) the exhaust system has already failed on the car8.) i have had the engine light go on 3 times with different sensors failing needing to be replaced.9.) the control arm and suspension has currently failed and now has to be replaced for around $2000.10.) everything leaks and retains water.the back lights fill with water and i have had it in the shop for this issue 3 times.the doors also fill gallons and gallons of water which will take 5 to 10 minutes to drain sometimes.the car has been brought in for that issue 2 times and never repaired.11.) many seals have rotted in the car causing leaks and other issues to occur.12.) second brake failure, this led to a 3 car accident and the totaling of multiple cars.the brake pedal shook and then went straight to the floor.cruise control was on during this braking attempt.the car hit another car going 51 mph.dodge has been contacted to investigate and they have not gotten back to me at this time.they were contacted on the date of the accident.
One day as i came back to my car and unlocked my door with my car key button, i noticed the passenger headlight was out. The next day i went to buy a new headlight bulb to replace it, except it didn't work when i tried the new one. I went to a local mechanic to ask what was wrong.he told me it is something to do with the wires and would cost a lot of money to fix it, let alone the part itself. I researched other people complain about the same problem.i have been rejected a registration sticker because it is not safe for it to be out. I also have been pulled over by the cops and was told to get it fixed.i would, but it costs too much to fix. I believe this should be a valid reason for it to be recalled as soon as possible,due to safety of the driver and passengers.i would also like to add the check engine light is also on.
Driving home from work, right headlight stopped working. Bought replacement bulbs, they do not work. Reading up, seems to be the tipm module. I cannot afford to replace this (over $1200). Dashboard information lights (such as brake and tpm) come on and go off indiscriminately.
While driving the hazard lights will automatically come on and blink five or six times, then automatically shut off.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
In july 2009 i returned to the dealer for a service, i also complained about the car intermittently not accelerating properly from a stop or near stop, it hesitated dramatically. The dealer could not replicate the problem and could do nothing to fix it. This is still an ongoing issue.then in june of 2013, while driving on a four lane highway at approximately 65 miles an hour, the car lost all acceleration, a moment later started a warning beep and the check engine light came on. I immediately put on the flashers while trying to maneuver from the middle lane to the shoulder of the road, after a week at the mechanic he called me to inform me that it could be the crank sensor, which was a known issue with this model vehicle. He replaced the sensor and i was informed that the issue was corrected. I didn't get five miles from the mechanic when the car again lost all acceleration and the engine light came on again. The mechanic towed the car back the next day. He had the representative from chrysler to his shop several times regarding the issue. The rep thought the computer needed an update and that is what was done, it did not solve the issue. (i was never notified by chrysler that the computer had updates that were required.) the mechanic had several other professionals look at the car, all of which were not finding the problem. They also had no new computer codes, which was when they realized the power train control module was the problem. This took a month to solve and the cost was $1130.
2007 dodge caliber r/t awd.my wife found 2 small brass bushings on the drivers side floor.while i was driving the car, during acceleration onto an interstate, it appeared that the accelerator pedal stuck and car continued to accelerate even after i removed foot from pedal.i pulled the pedal up with my foot to free up pedal.i searched online and found a couple of other references to a similar problem occurring with other caliber owners.took vehicle to my preferred mechanic, and he has to order a new accelerator pedal assembly.
My 2007 dodge caliber has had 5 episodes of the accelerator going to the floor and the car speeding up and the rpm going to high, each time i have been driving. The first time from arizona to arkansas and at aprox 800 miles it happened and as one is when traveling i was tired and things were cluttered so i assumed it was the floor mat and pulled it down and went on. I was able to put the car in neutral so that i did not speed up and hit the car in front of me. The second time i was driving and after about 20 miles it did the same thing and i took the matt out. I was able to stick my foot under the peddle andpull it up and put the car in neutral and then back in drive and it was then behaving normal. The next time i was surprised because i did think it was the matt and the matt was gone. Doing the same thing putting the car in neutral as i was driving and back in drive , this time i had to keep doing this as i coasted on the road and on the 3 rd time it went back to normal. The rest if the times were on the same trip to the dealer, a 50 mile trip, all the same , the car accelerator pedal goes down, the car speeds up , i put it in neutral and pull the pedal up and then after a few times it works for a undetermined amount of miles. The dealer has now told me they reset the system and it should not happen again but should it then they will need to replace some things. Dodge in russellville arkansas, i hope it is fixed. My fear is this will happen as i'm pulling out somewhere and cause a wreck, or it will happen to someone else and they won't think so fast to put car in neutral, on the internet i found many stories about the dodge caliber accelerator throttle not working correctly and dodge dealers not sure what the problem was , please check into this to save lives before any are lost that don't need to be lost. Thank you
Needed to replace the fuel tank and purge solenoid as the car kept stalling after i'd put gas in the car when i'd leave the gas station. Very unsafe as i'd be at ared light right after putting in gas and would stall.after about 15 minutes of driving consistently the car would drive fine.
The vehicle stalls at red lights / intersections after filling the gas tank.it does stop after some of the gas is used.it has not occurred when driving on a highway, only on city streets.in having the car examined, there is a faulty value on the gas tank, which appears to be a common problem.itin speaking with chrysler, they are unwilling to assist.
This vehicle's engine will stall multiple times after the fuel tank has been filled to capacity. The stalls occur while idling, and/or when driving and they can happen without warning while in the middle of traffic or in the middle of a turn. This is a well documented problem within online forums (including youtube) regarding this model of vehicle. This a dangerous problem.i once stalled and was nearlyinvolved in a rear-end collision while trying to merge onto the freeway in this car.
When car is filled up to full it will smell like raw fuel in the car and it will stall numerous times while driving down the road.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber awd. The contact stated that while driving 45 mph, the vehicle stalled. The contact stated that he coasted to the side of the road to restart the vehicle. The contact took the vehicle to get inspected by the dealer and was informed that the fuel pump needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired but the failure recurred. The contact notified the manufacturer who advised that the fuel pump needed to be replaced and would provide no assistance. The failure mileage was 104,000.....updated 10/11/12updated 10/15/2012
I have been experiencing difficulty in filling fuel into the gas tank.fuel must be entered very slowly in the filler neck or the handle from the pump will "trip" and not allow any further flow of fuel.after doing some research and talking to others i thought this problem might be due to a clogged evap hose or its charcoal canister.i took it to an nationally known service station who diagnosed the problem to be not in the evap system but in a defective "rollover valve" which is internal to the fuel tank.it is essentially a "check valve" which prevents fuel from spilling back out of the tank in the event of a rollover accident.if this rollover valve is stuck "partially closed" during filling, then it could also be stuck "partially open" and allow fuel to dangerously spill backward through the filler neck in the event of a rollover accident.i took my vehicle to an authorized dodge dealer to investigate the above.they checked into their database and found this defective part to have caused a recall on some other 2007 dodge vehicles (avenger, dakota and i believe ram's) but the frequency was not justified for dodge calibers.it is my belief that my problem described is one and the same as those models listed above (and may very well be the same affected part) and that my defective "rollover valve" should be replaced at dodge's expense.the repair involves replacement of the entire fuel tank.
On the day of the incident my car started jerking and acted like it would die when i gave the car gas.i took it to a mechanic who did an oil change and checked the engine codes.i picked the car up from that mechanic and the car was still doing the same thing.i took it to another mechanic and they updated the computer on the car, changed the plugs and flushed the motor.the car is still doing the same thing.the other day i was accelerating up a hill and the red lightning bolt light came on the car was still running but was not getting any gas.i pulled over and stopped the car and started it again and did not accelerate or anything till i got to my destination.seems like this is a problem with this car that needs to be dealt with.i have spent over $400 trying to solve a problem that seems to be a problem with this type of dodge.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
2007 dodge caliber - steering pulls to both left and right for about first 10 minutes of driving (feels very sloppy). Pulls hard to the right while braking. Doors lock with car running.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber and the following things have happened that resulted in a accident.1.) the blower motor went out only 2 months after buying the car.2.) the steering wheel controls for the volume and changing the channels have never worked.i have brought the car into the shop 14 times and the issue has never been fixed.3.) first brake failure was about a year after buying the car and was due to the booster cylinder and master cylinder failing.ourisman dodge put me into a rental car for about 10 days. 4.) cruise control has a mind of its own and could also be a reason why the car was in a accident5.) transmission issue, the car has already had transmission issues where it was not able to upshift while driving and the automatic transmission was not able to be used.6.) computer issues, when my battery died the entire computer went out and $300 later had to be reloaded and fixed7.) the exhaust system has already failed on the car8.) i have had the engine light go on 3 times with different sensors failing needing to be replaced.9.) the control arm and suspension has currently failed and now has to be replaced for around $2000.10.) everything leaks and retains water.the back lights fill with water and i have had it in the shop for this issue 3 times.the doors also fill gallons and gallons of water which will take 5 to 10 minutes to drain sometimes.the car has been brought in for that issue 2 times and never repaired.11.) many seals have rotted in the car causing leaks and other issues to occur.12.) second brake failure, this led to a 3 car accident and the totaling of multiple cars.the brake pedal shook and then went straight to the floor.cruise control was on during this braking attempt.the car hit another car going 51 mph.dodge has been contacted to investigate and they have not gotten back to me at this time.they were contacted on the date of the accident.
It is about dodge caliber sxt 2007 sportsi, the undersigned,give you this written information that i have leased the new latest model tempted by advertisement and in order to buy a safe vehicle.before i went for my first oil change i already posted my feedback opinion online to the dodge company.i complained about a metallic cracking sound that was coming from the engine which is a strange phenomenon in a new vehicle.when i approached the dealerfor thefirst oil change, it took longer time to do the oil change service. Upon inquiring for the cause, the technician informed me that some vital parts of the powertrain has beenrecalled from dodge and is being replaced so it will take a long time to dothat. I left the vehicle with you on friday 14, july, to find out what is this all about.if it is a powertrain recall issue or any parts related to motor vehicle safety standardissues - i feel that this model is not safe and dose not comply with the national traffic and motor vehicle safety act. More over neither dodge company nor younotified me any potential manufacturing defects or errors until july 14, 2006.
Rusted sub frame
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber awd.the contact stated that the vehicle would overheat and failed to accelerate past 10 mph.the contact had to pull over and allow the vehicle to cool off.afterwards, the vehicle operated at the proper speed.the dealer was unable to determine the cause of failure.a brand new transmission was installed in the vehicle on february 12, 2007, but the vehicle is still overheating.the vin and engine size were unknown.the current mileage is 18,000 and failure mileage was 17,000.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
I have 101,000 miles and was driving about 10 miles an hour in a parking lot.all of a sudden my seat belt unfastened and will not remain fastened.i tried reconnecting it several times without any luck. It will not refasten.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
My daughter bought a used 2007 dodge caliber with 83,493 miles on it in 2016.in 2018 the car became very unstable and found the cross structure in the rear was so corroded and rusted it cracked in half.she, i, and others could have been killed.and i see now 100's of others that has the same problem.what do we do about this?eat $5,000.00 ? this needs to be taken care of..she was driving and i was with her at night and raining, on the freeway when it started to shake so bad i thought it was going to fall apart.we creeped it home and friends looked underneath and said omg.. So again,, how do we replace this? and what is being done?there were no notifications on this at all period. I don't care if it was 1 car.this needs to be recalled.. It could be a family with children, a head on crash,who knows..it's dangerous.. Mad mother.. It happened on or around may 14, 2018 and i don't know exactly what the miles were at that time, gave a estimate..this is as bad as having a drunk driver coming at you.. Please recall..
On 10/6/14 i was driving to school at 6:00 am on a single lane back road. Without warning the speedometer stopped working (went to zero), and the abs, brake, anti-skid and check engine lights came on. Because of my location i had to keep driving until i got to a safe area. The whole time there was no way of telling my speed or know if my brakes were working normal. After i shut it off and restarted, it went back to normal. When i got home we checked the error codes and found "u1110 lost vehicle speed, u1120 lost wheel distance and u0416 invalid data received from dynamic ctr 1. We cleared the codes to see if it happened again. It was fine until this morning 10/10/14. I started the car and after about 30 seconds or so the same thing happened. I drove another car to school. My dad checked and found the same error codes. Now i don't think it is safe to drive, not knowing when it may occur again. I looked on line and noticed others with the same problem. Can you help? my dad is handling this problem for me so i am putting down his contact info.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber and the following things have happened that resulted in a accident.1.) the blower motor went out only 2 months after buying the car.2.) the steering wheel controls for the volume and changing the channels have never worked.i have brought the car into the shop 14 times and the issue has never been fixed.3.) first brake failure was about a year after buying the car and was due to the booster cylinder and master cylinder failing.ourisman dodge put me into a rental car for about 10 days. 4.) cruise control has a mind of its own and could also be a reason why the car was in a accident5.) transmission issue, the car has already had transmission issues where it was not able to upshift while driving and the automatic transmission was not able to be used.6.) computer issues, when my battery died the entire computer went out and $300 later had to be reloaded and fixed7.) the exhaust system has already failed on the car8.) i have had the engine light go on 3 times with different sensors failing needing to be replaced.9.) the control arm and suspension has currently failed and now has to be replaced for around $2000.10.) everything leaks and retains water.the back lights fill with water and i have had it in the shop for this issue 3 times.the doors also fill gallons and gallons of water which will take 5 to 10 minutes to drain sometimes.the car has been brought in for that issue 2 times and never repaired.11.) many seals have rotted in the car causing leaks and other issues to occur.12.) second brake failure, this led to a 3 car accident and the totaling of multiple cars.the brake pedal shook and then went straight to the floor.cruise control was on during this braking attempt.the car hit another car going 51 mph.dodge has been contacted to investigate and they have not gotten back to me at this time.they were contacted on the date of the accident.
2007 dodge caliber - steering pulls to both left and right for about first 10 minutes of driving (feels very sloppy). Pulls hard to the right while braking. Doors lock with car running.
I purchase a used 2007 dodge caliber se 4 door sedan in october of 2008. The car had 14528 miles at time of purchase. The car always had a front end issue.in 2010, with less than 40,000 miles, i brought the car for tires because i was informed that the tires were worn on the inside tread, and it was dangerous to continue driving with them in that condition. I took the car to have the tires replaced at the cost of $600, but was informed that it was because of the design of the car that the tires wore the way they did. I took the car, with new tires to the shop for an alignment and was informed that the car was built to only be aligned in two directions and should have the ability to be aligned in three ways.the car always had a problem with steering when there was a seam in the pavement on the roadway; the front end would ?follow? the seam in the road and had to be forced to drive properly. In march of 2012, i still had a problem with the front end, but by now it sounded as if the front tires were going to go through the hood with the amount of clunking from the front end each time it hit bump in the road. He found that the left and right control arms were bad, and the bushings were broken through. This issue cost over $500 to repair. The front end issue was greatly diminished with this repair, but not gone.in february 2013, the front end started having more problems, i returned to the mechanic and he discovered this time it was the strut assembly, front struts and tie rods. I was informed that the car was so bad that he was amazed the front tire didn't fall off the car. This repair cost over $1100, but also mine and my passengers? safety was greatly at risk while riding in the vehicle.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
2007 dodge caliber awd, tie rod ends had to be changed with only 17,000 miles on it. Back in sept. 2009. Now with only 29,000 miles on it . During a state inspection on 22, oct. 2011 now i am told both front lower control arms with ball joints are bad. Their should be no reason for this . The car drives only on well paved roads. What is dodge doing about this ? dealership knows about this big problem. But can not do anything until a recall.! !( cost 800.00 dollars )
Water leaks into car during heavy rain collision center found hole in body seam where hinge pillar and cowl panel are put together. Car has sun roof. Collision center feels this is a manufacture defect.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber and the following things have happened that resulted in a accident.1.) the blower motor went out only 2 months after buying the car.2.) the steering wheel controls for the volume and changing the channels have never worked.i have brought the car into the shop 14 times and the issue has never been fixed.3.) first brake failure was about a year after buying the car and was due to the booster cylinder and master cylinder failing.ourisman dodge put me into a rental car for about 10 days. 4.) cruise control has a mind of its own and could also be a reason why the car was in a accident5.) transmission issue, the car has already had transmission issues where it was not able to upshift while driving and the automatic transmission was not able to be used.6.) computer issues, when my battery died the entire computer went out and $300 later had to be reloaded and fixed7.) the exhaust system has already failed on the car8.) i have had the engine light go on 3 times with different sensors failing needing to be replaced.9.) the control arm and suspension has currently failed and now has to be replaced for around $2000.10.) everything leaks and retains water.the back lights fill with water and i have had it in the shop for this issue 3 times.the doors also fill gallons and gallons of water which will take 5 to 10 minutes to drain sometimes.the car has been brought in for that issue 2 times and never repaired.11.) many seals have rotted in the car causing leaks and other issues to occur.12.) second brake failure, this led to a 3 car accident and the totaling of multiple cars.the brake pedal shook and then went straight to the floor.cruise control was on during this braking attempt.the car hit another car going 51 mph.dodge has been contacted to investigate and they have not gotten back to me at this time.they were contacted on the date of the accident.
Since buying this car new i have had multiple near accidents due to the blind spots caused by both a-pillars, usually involving pedestrians from the left (crosswalks, parking lots) and crossing traffic at intersections approaching from the right.i had never had this problem with my prior vehicles (previous new vehicle = 2001 dodge durango).i have tried to adapt since identifying this problem by looking around the a-pillars but it continues to happen, especially in busy/crowded situations.on multiple occasions, i have nearly struck pedestrians (again, only those approaching from my left) or actually pulled out in front of a car approaching from my right at an intersection.is this a common complaint since the wider a-pillars were adapted?
Car only has 71,000 miles on it. On my way home from work i heard a clunking noise coming from the front end of my car so i took it to a mechanic. After inspection, mechanic reported that sub frame around lower a arm was rotted and entire back side of cradle also was rotted. Everything else under car looks new, we just don't understand why just this part of car is rotting. Chrysler should have this vehicle recalled, after doing research on this vehicle and finding this being one of the common defects.
My daughter bought a used 2007 dodge caliber with 83,493 miles on it in 2016.in 2018 the car became very unstable and found the cross structure in the rear was so corroded and rusted it cracked in half.she, i, and others could have been killed.and i see now 100's of others that has the same problem.what do we do about this?eat $5,000.00 ? this needs to be taken care of..she was driving and i was with her at night and raining, on the freeway when it started to shake so bad i thought it was going to fall apart.we creeped it home and friends looked underneath and said omg.. So again,, how do we replace this? and what is being done?there were no notifications on this at all period. I don't care if it was 1 car.this needs to be recalled.. It could be a family with children, a head on crash,who knows..it's dangerous.. Mad mother.. It happened on or around may 14, 2018 and i don't know exactly what the miles were at that time, gave a estimate..this is as bad as having a drunk driver coming at you.. Please recall..
We started the vehicle using the remote start, and then i inserted the keys in the ignition and turned them to disengage the automatic shutoff.then placed our 3yr old in child seat and closed both doors on the passenger side.i was walking around the car to get in the drivers seat and heard the automatic locks engage.i was locked out with our 3yr old locked inside a running vehicle.had to call emergency services to have them unlock the car.never heard of a vehicle's automatic locks engaging with the ignition engaged and running.
Fiance had a seizure and car went to side of road. Car flopped on the left driver side and crashed into trees. Air bags did not deploy, seat belts were intact and working. Previously, seat belts were found to unlatch at times when driver was in car and car was in motion. Amazed that seat belts worked because it saved our lives. Airbags did not deploy.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber. The contact stated that the cross member and sub frame were rusted and corroded. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who discovered that there were holes and rust all over the frame and cross members. As a result, the cross members, the sub frame, and the frame needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 87,701.
I own two 2007 dodge calibers. Both purchased new in 2007. One fwd (sxt model), one awd (r/t model).i received a notice from chrysler in late may 2014 that they were extending the warranty period on the front and rear cross members of the fwd sxt caliber due to premature corrosion.they recommended having the dealer inspect these parts yearly.i believed i would receive a notice for the awd r/t model eventually since i purchased that one several months after the first.when i did not receive a notice, i called chrysler to inquire.they told me based on the vin or the r/t model this vehicle was not included.i did inspect the front cross member of the 07 awd r/t(vin above).the cross member is severely rusted and has several larger perforations in the cross member frame from rust.the rest of the underside of the vehicle appears to be in good condition.i believe the cross member on this vehicle is also defective. I do have a photograph of the part.
The c/member-f or subframe was cracked in three places and so rotten that while in the shop someone put their thumb through it. It was deemed unsafe to drive by our repairman. This is a 2007 rt, how many cars five years old does this happen to? the new part was $572.00 purchased at dealership, not including the labor from our repairman. We do have some pictures taken, but not viewed yet. The repairman has had the old sub-frame on display showing everyone that comes in, only because it is so unbelievable. I did read on http://www.aboutautomobile.com/forum/dodge/caliber/consumer+complaint/5641-5641 of someone else having similar problems. I contacted dodge and they said sorry not under warranty. On dodge on facebook they asked for phone number and vin, but they have never contacted me. The air conditioning hose runs onto the sub-frame, the other person indicated this is the problem. I know my warranty was over, but i would say this is defective equipment; we had a 5 hour trip planned for the day after i brought it into the shop. I was coming home from work traveling around 45mph when it began to make cracking and thumping sounds. We had cancelled the trip due to the front end started to make a noise. Glad we did would have hated to have been zipping down the interstate when it broke. We could have been injured or killed or taken other cars with us, scary thought.
I also had the same problem with my 2007 dodge caliber with the front subframe.i had it in for an oil change and my mechanic (private, not dealer) said the subframe was so corroded that is was unsafe to drive.i had it repaired for approx $500.00.i waited for my letter from dodge stating my vin # was part of the recall and when i called today- they said it was not.they also stated had i taken the car to my dealer, perhaps something could have been done.
Upon driving a loud metal to metal clunk began. Owner looked under vehicle, but was unable to see any problem. Noise was so distinct that vehicle was carefully driven to our independent mechanic. He started to go out on a road test to try to locate the problem and immediately returned to his garage. He found one sway bar link was unattached at lower end. He then used a mirror to view the top side of the sub frame and found it was rotted out. Upon removal of the subframe a fist sized hole was found in the top of the subframe and there were also cracks radiating back through more of the frame. Looking at the removed item, it was obvious that the degradation was so severe that hitting a bad enough bump or hole could very possibly cause loss of integrity in the suspension, steering or engine mounting.all in all, this situation looked extremely hazardous. And considering that a visual inspection from underneath, as during an oil change, one of which had been performed recently, did not show the damage, i would say this is a very bad situation. In researching this condition online, it sounds possible that the air condition dripping could be a contributing factor. There were a number of cases to be seen.i feel that we are very lucky there was no major incident due to this condition. This vehicle, while a 2007 has an in service date of february 2008. I hope you will find this situation serious enough to review, and i have taken a series of pictures which will help to document the problem.thank you for your time in reviewing this for us.
2007 dodge caliber - steering pulls to both left and right for about first 10 minutes of driving (feels very sloppy). Pulls hard to the right while braking. Doors lock with car running.
I own a 2007 dodge caliber awd and recently had the tires replaced and requested an alignment check.the tire company notified me that the lower ball joints/ control arms are bad and need to be replaced and said they have seen this problem in the caliber frequently.the vehicle has less than 30,000 miles, has never been in an accident that involved the front suspension and has only been driven on hard surfaced roads.these components should not have been defective with this low mileage.the fault was covered under warranty and repaired by the dealer, but if the part failed at highway speed, it could have been catastrophic.
Rear crossmember subframe rusted and broken causing driveshaft and the rear differential to shift during acceleration. Noticed a thumbing sound when driving on local city street at approximately 25 mph on dec. 12, 2018.
The c/member-f or subframe was cracked in three places and so rotten that while in the shop someone put their thumb through it. It was deemed unsafe to drive by our repairman. This is a 2007 rt, how many cars five years old does this happen to? the new part was $572.00 purchased at dealership, not including the labor from our repairman. We do have some pictures taken, but not viewed yet. The repairman has had the old sub-frame on display showing everyone that comes in, only because it is so unbelievable. I did read on http://www.aboutautomobile.com/forum/dodge/caliber/consumer+complaint/5641-5641 of someone else having similar problems. I contacted dodge and they said sorry not under warranty. On dodge on facebook they asked for phone number and vin, but they have never contacted me. The air conditioning hose runs onto the sub-frame, the other person indicated this is the problem. I know my warranty was over, but i would say this is defective equipment; we had a 5 hour trip planned for the day after i brought it into the shop. I was coming home from work traveling around 45mph when it began to make cracking and thumping sounds. We had cancelled the trip due to the front end started to make a noise. Glad we did would have hated to have been zipping down the interstate when it broke. We could have been injured or killed or taken other cars with us, scary thought.
The cross member on the underside is badly corroded and should be replaced but is a little expensive.i have had to already replace both control arms, both ball joints and one had already been replaced by after market ball joint.the struts have had to be replaced as well.a car with these miles should not need all this front end work.i have seen this to be not just my situation. My cruise control worked when we bought this vehicle with 85,000 now does not work.
Upon driving a loud metal to metal clunk began. Owner looked under vehicle, but was unable to see any problem. Noise was so distinct that vehicle was carefully driven to our independent mechanic. He started to go out on a road test to try to locate the problem and immediately returned to his garage. He found one sway bar link was unattached at lower end. He then used a mirror to view the top side of the sub frame and found it was rotted out. Upon removal of the subframe a fist sized hole was found in the top of the subframe and there were also cracks radiating back through more of the frame. Looking at the removed item, it was obvious that the degradation was so severe that hitting a bad enough bump or hole could very possibly cause loss of integrity in the suspension, steering or engine mounting.all in all, this situation looked extremely hazardous. And considering that a visual inspection from underneath, as during an oil change, one of which had been performed recently, did not show the damage, i would say this is a very bad situation. In researching this condition online, it sounds possible that the air condition dripping could be a contributing factor. There were a number of cases to be seen.i feel that we are very lucky there was no major incident due to this condition. This vehicle, while a 2007 has an in service date of february 2008. I hope you will find this situation serious enough to review, and i have taken a series of pictures which will help to document the problem.thank you for your time in reviewing this for us.
I purchase a used 2007 dodge caliber se 4 door sedan in october of 2008. The car had 14528 miles at time of purchase. The car always had a front end issue.in 2010, with less than 40,000 miles, i brought the car for tires because i was informed that the tires were worn on the inside tread, and it was dangerous to continue driving with them in that condition. I took the car to have the tires replaced at the cost of $600, but was informed that it was because of the design of the car that the tires wore the way they did. I took the car, with new tires to the shop for an alignment and was informed that the car was built to only be aligned in two directions and should have the ability to be aligned in three ways.the car always had a problem with steering when there was a seam in the pavement on the roadway; the front end would ?follow? the seam in the road and had to be forced to drive properly. In march of 2012, i still had a problem with the front end, but by now it sounded as if the front tires were going to go through the hood with the amount of clunking from the front end each time it hit bump in the road. He found that the left and right control arms were bad, and the bushings were broken through. This issue cost over $500 to repair. The front end issue was greatly diminished with this repair, but not gone.in february 2013, the front end started having more problems, i returned to the mechanic and he discovered this time it was the strut assembly, front struts and tie rods. I was informed that the car was so bad that he was amazed the front tire didn't fall off the car. This repair cost over $1100, but also mine and my passengers? safety was greatly at risk while riding in the vehicle.
I also had the same problem with my 2007 dodge caliber with the front subframe.i had it in for an oil change and my mechanic (private, not dealer) said the subframe was so corroded that is was unsafe to drive.i had it repaired for approx $500.00.i waited for my letter from dodge stating my vin # was part of the recall and when i called today- they said it was not.they also stated had i taken the car to my dealer, perhaps something could have been done.
I have owned this care for nearly 7 years and i am currently replacing the lower control arms for the third time.i have known multiple people with this same vehicle that have had the same issue.the first time it happened it was just out of warranty by 3000 miles, not it has happened less than 30000 miles each of the two other times.please have dodge recall these vehicles as research shows this is a very common issue and something needs done to fix it so you can get normal wear.
Car swerved to the left suddenly and forcefully twice. First time was on a 3 lane road. If another vehichile were in the lane next to me there would have been a serioius collision. Second time nearly avoided a head on collision with oncoming traffic. Then when i pulled into my drive way, the u-joint on my front passender tire broke completely. Car became undrivable and had to be towed.
This is the 2nd complaint i filled with chrysler corp. Thru nhtsa concerning this issue, 1st complaint was #11186050 concerning the rear cross members/rear axle cradle rotting out (chrysler action 23-012-14 this action extended the warranty to 10 years). I found out about this action thru talking with a friend who went thru this same issue. Chrysler corp. Contacted me to state "that all owners were notified !" this car was bought new in 2007 at berger motors in hazelton, pa. Neither berger motors or chrysler contacted us on this issue, so how can chrysler corp make this statement that all owners were notified !!! this car has less than 75,000 original miles on it !
Front end felt like it would wobble and the drivers side tire started wearing badly. Brought it in to get the inner and outer tie rod and a arm with ball joint replaced mechanic told me to park it and don't drive it till i got it fixed.
Car only has 71,000 miles on it. On my way home from work i heard a clunking noise coming from the front end of my car so i took it to a mechanic. After inspection, mechanic reported that sub frame around lower a arm was rotted and entire back side of cradle also was rotted. Everything else under car looks new, we just don't understand why just this part of car is rotting. Chrysler should have this vehicle recalled, after doing research on this vehicle and finding this being one of the common defects.
While turning the corner the rear tire leaned in and rubbed against the strut spring causing tire damage and damage to the strut spring.the cars sub frame is completely rusted and will not hold the suspension parts that hold the rear tire in place and straight.tire falls in and rubs on strut spring. Under body parts are rusting from air conditioning draining into sub frame. Car was so bad it had to be loaded onto a flat bed and be hauled to the mechanic to see if it repairable and to see how bad the other side is. This should not happen with only 100,000 miles on the frame.dodge should be held accountable for this!
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber awd. While driving at various speeds, the front end of the vehicle made an abnormal noise. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the driver's side lower control arm needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The contact stated that the passenger side lower control arm needed to be replaced a year later due to the same failure. While driving at various speeds and attempting to turn right, the vehicle would shake. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the shaft axle assembly and driver side lower control arm needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired; however the failure recurred. The contact stated that shortly after the passenger side lower control arm needed to be replaced due to fracturing. While attempting to accelerate from a stop, there was an abnormal noise. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed that the serpentine belt, idler pulley, alternator, and tensioner pulley needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 20,147.
While driving this vehicle i heard a noise from the rear of vehicle, i took the car to a garage, the mechanic checked it then called me ' not to drive it ' that the rear axle/suspension cradle was rotted out. I contacted a chrysler dealer and they told me that chrysler corporation extended the warranty due to this issue for 10 years which ended in 2017. I contacted chrysler only to find out my vehicle was not one of the recalls, i asked how can that be since my vehicle has the same problem and i asked why wasn't the owners of these cars notified to get them checked (no answer), i told this woman that they knew of this problem (using substandard steel) and i know that someone will be hurt or killed due due to their negligence.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
Rusted sub frame
2007 dodge caliber awd, tie rod ends had to be changed with only 17,000 miles on it. Back in sept. 2009. Now with only 29,000 miles on it . During a state inspection on 22, oct. 2011 now i am told both front lower control arms with ball joints are bad. Their should be no reason for this . The car drives only on well paved roads. What is dodge doing about this ? dealership knows about this big problem. But can not do anything until a recall.! !( cost 800.00 dollars )
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber and the following things have happened that resulted in a accident.1.) the blower motor went out only 2 months after buying the car.2.) the steering wheel controls for the volume and changing the channels have never worked.i have brought the car into the shop 14 times and the issue has never been fixed.3.) first brake failure was about a year after buying the car and was due to the booster cylinder and master cylinder failing.ourisman dodge put me into a rental car for about 10 days. 4.) cruise control has a mind of its own and could also be a reason why the car was in a accident5.) transmission issue, the car has already had transmission issues where it was not able to upshift while driving and the automatic transmission was not able to be used.6.) computer issues, when my battery died the entire computer went out and $300 later had to be reloaded and fixed7.) the exhaust system has already failed on the car8.) i have had the engine light go on 3 times with different sensors failing needing to be replaced.9.) the control arm and suspension has currently failed and now has to be replaced for around $2000.10.) everything leaks and retains water.the back lights fill with water and i have had it in the shop for this issue 3 times.the doors also fill gallons and gallons of water which will take 5 to 10 minutes to drain sometimes.the car has been brought in for that issue 2 times and never repaired.11.) many seals have rotted in the car causing leaks and other issues to occur.12.) second brake failure, this led to a 3 car accident and the totaling of multiple cars.the brake pedal shook and then went straight to the floor.cruise control was on during this braking attempt.the car hit another car going 51 mph.dodge has been contacted to investigate and they have not gotten back to me at this time.they were contacted on the date of the accident.
At approximately 23,700 miles, my 2007 dodge caliber rt had to have both front ball joints replaced (chrysler reimbursed for the ruined front tires that had been put on 9 months before due to this problem).within a few weeks after the ball joints were replaced, i started hearing a noise like something lose in the front driver's side tire area.upon having my annual inspection at the beginning of march, my mechanic told me i have a busted drivers' side strut.there is only a little over 25,000 miles on this car and this is two major problems with the suspension in less than 6 months!i keep reading of similar problems and am wondering if this is something that dodge/chrsyler is going to fix via recall (of course, the struts started making the noise within weeks of coming out of my basic 3 yr/36,000 mile coverage - i am now into extended coverage with a deductible).
Both tie rods on my 2007 dodge caliber rt awd failed at 30,000 miles. The drivers side tire could be wobbled with the push of a pinky. The car would not stay in it's own lane and was extremely difficult to drive, every bump or dip in the road would cause the car to lurch to one side or the other. I was told by my mechanic that i was lucky the drivers side tire did not fall off while driving. The local dodge dealer did acknowledge that 30,000 miles was low mileage for tie rod failure, they said that there was nothing they could do as the warranty expired 3 months ago. While the car was being repaired the mechanic also noted that the drivers side control arm bushing is separating and will need to be replace soon as well.
2007 dodge caliber brokenfront arm control in suspensionthe caris 3 years old .according to the parts store it is an on going problem and should be a recall. Read many complaints on lineit is a safety hazard.
2007 dodge caliber required ball joint replacement at 71,100. Vehicle was serviced regularly and was correctly aligned.
I bought a 2007 dodge caliber and the following things have happened that resulted in a accident.1.) the blower motor went out only 2 months after buying the car.2.) the steering wheel controls for the volume and changing the channels have never worked.i have brought the car into the shop 14 times and the issue has never been fixed.3.) first brake failure was about a year after buying the car and was due to the booster cylinder and master cylinder failing.ourisman dodge put me into a rental car for about 10 days. 4.) cruise control has a mind of its own and could also be a reason why the car was in a accident5.) transmission issue, the car has already had transmission issues where it was not able to upshift while driving and the automatic transmission was not able to be used.6.) computer issues, when my battery died the entire computer went out and $300 later had to be reloaded and fixed7.) the exhaust system has already failed on the car8.) i have had the engine light go on 3 times with different sensors failing needing to be replaced.9.) the control arm and suspension has currently failed and now has to be replaced for around $2000.10.) everything leaks and retains water.the back lights fill with water and i have had it in the shop for this issue 3 times.the doors also fill gallons and gallons of water which will take 5 to 10 minutes to drain sometimes.the car has been brought in for that issue 2 times and never repaired.11.) many seals have rotted in the car causing leaks and other issues to occur.12.) second brake failure, this led to a 3 car accident and the totaling of multiple cars.the brake pedal shook and then went straight to the floor.cruise control was on during this braking attempt.the car hit another car going 51 mph.dodge has been contacted to investigate and they have not gotten back to me at this time.they were contacted on the date of the accident.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
I bought my 2007 dodge caliber awd in may of 2012. After i had my daughter in march 2014, i realized that my car was going crazy! she was in the nicu and i had to go see her as often as i could, which these problems prolonged her stay. When i started the car, sometimes it wouldn't start....bought a new battery, so that wasn't it... Then my hazards, gauges (except gas gauge) and a bunch of lights all flashed and it dinged at the same time. I havent been able to get a tow to the dealership, get to doctor appointments ( i am disabled) or get my daughter to her appointments. This has been a huge burden on me and my family, and i wish i never bought this car, and i will never buy from them again. Ever.
Driving home from work, right headlight stopped working. Bought replacement bulbs, they do not work. Reading up, seems to be the tipm module. I cannot afford to replace this (over $1200). Dashboard information lights (such as brake and tpm) come on and go off indiscriminately.
My daughter bought a used 2007 dodge caliber with 83,493 miles on it in 2016.in 2018 the car became very unstable and found the cross structure in the rear was so corroded and rusted it cracked in half.she, i, and others could have been killed.and i see now 100's of others that has the same problem.what do we do about this?eat $5,000.00 ? this needs to be taken care of..she was driving and i was with her at night and raining, on the freeway when it started to shake so bad i thought it was going to fall apart.we creeped it home and friends looked underneath and said omg.. So again,, how do we replace this? and what is being done?there were no notifications on this at all period. I don't care if it was 1 car.this needs to be recalled.. It could be a family with children, a head on crash,who knows..it's dangerous.. Mad mother.. It happened on or around may 14, 2018 and i don't know exactly what the miles were at that time, gave a estimate..this is as bad as having a drunk driver coming at you.. Please recall..
Rear crossmember subframe rusted and broken causing driveshaft and the rear differential to shift during acceleration. Noticed a thumbing sound when driving on local city street at approximately 25 mph on dec. 12, 2018.
My mother took her car to her local auto mechanic in town because the muffler was rattling. The mechanic told her the car was unsafe and not drivable because the frame is totally rotted.the car frame has sank and now is hitting the exhaust system.that what was causing the rattle. The mechanic was able to poke a screw driver thru the frame tube. Mom has been told by her mechanic and a another car dealer that the car was worth less and not drivable.very frustrated i called dodge customer service to try and understand how a 2007 car was not drivable and worthless.dodge customer service stated to bring the car to a dodge dealer and that they wanted to get her back on the road right away.we brought the car to the ramsey dodge dealer, same place where she purchased the car.the dealer told us that dodge has a campaign on this exact problem, of rotted frame tubes and that her extended warranty was still good for three additional months. We have been denied a rental car until we agree to pay for additional rusted/rotted parts and labor to make the necessary rotted frame repairs.the estimate is for $1,191.00 in parts and $910.00 in labor plus tax of $210.00.this is the same labor that would have to be performed with the rotted frame tube repair.the additional parts that they say are required is because they are also to rusted/rotted to be reused.this is unconscionable.dodge and the dodge dealer are trying to take advantage of my mother.she needs this car.robert is the dealer service writer and the case # is 30051333. Her car has been at the dealer since 9/2/2016.i will attach a photo of the estimate.these vehicles are unsafe and should be removed from the road before someone is killed.
I bought my 2007 dodge caliber awd in may of 2012. After i had my daughter in march 2014, i realized that my car was going crazy! she was in the nicu and i had to go see her as often as i could, which these problems prolonged her stay. When i started the car, sometimes it wouldn't start....bought a new battery, so that wasn't it... Then my hazards, gauges (except gas gauge) and a bunch of lights all flashed and it dinged at the same time. I havent been able to get a tow to the dealership, get to doctor appointments ( i am disabled) or get my daughter to her appointments. This has been a huge burden on me and my family, and i wish i never bought this car, and i will never buy from them again. Ever.
My 2007 dodge caliber has had 5 episodes of the accelerator going to the floor and the car speeding up and the rpm going to high, each time i have been driving. The first time from arizona to arkansas and at aprox 800 miles it happened and as one is when traveling i was tired and things were cluttered so i assumed it was the floor mat and pulled it down and went on. I was able to put the car in neutral so that i did not speed up and hit the car in front of me. The second time i was driving and after about 20 miles it did the same thing and i took the matt out. I was able to stick my foot under the peddle andpull it up and put the car in neutral and then back in drive and it was then behaving normal. The next time i was surprised because i did think it was the matt and the matt was gone. Doing the same thing putting the car in neutral as i was driving and back in drive , this time i had to keep doing this as i coasted on the road and on the 3 rd time it went back to normal. The rest if the times were on the same trip to the dealer, a 50 mile trip, all the same , the car accelerator pedal goes down, the car speeds up , i put it in neutral and pull the pedal up and then after a few times it works for a undetermined amount of miles. The dealer has now told me they reset the system and it should not happen again but should it then they will need to replace some things. Dodge in russellville arkansas, i hope it is fixed. My fear is this will happen as i'm pulling out somewhere and cause a wreck, or it will happen to someone else and they won't think so fast to put car in neutral, on the internet i found many stories about the dodge caliber accelerator throttle not working correctly and dodge dealers not sure what the problem was , please check into this to save lives before any are lost that don't need to be lost. Thank you
On the day of the incident my car started jerking and acted like it would die when i gave the car gas.i took it to a mechanic who did an oil change and checked the engine codes.i picked the car up from that mechanic and the car was still doing the same thing.i took it to another mechanic and they updated the computer on the car, changed the plugs and flushed the motor.the car is still doing the same thing.the other day i was accelerating up a hill and the red lightning bolt light came on the car was still running but was not getting any gas.i pulled over and stopped the car and started it again and did not accelerate or anything till i got to my destination.seems like this is a problem with this car that needs to be dealt with.i have spent over $400 trying to solve a problem that seems to be a problem with this type of dodge.
On 10/6/14 i was driving to school at 6:00 am on a single lane back road. Without warning the speedometer stopped working (went to zero), and the abs, brake, anti-skid and check engine lights came on. Because of my location i had to keep driving until i got to a safe area. The whole time there was no way of telling my speed or know if my brakes were working normal. After i shut it off and restarted, it went back to normal. When i got home we checked the error codes and found "u1110 lost vehicle speed, u1120 lost wheel distance and u0416 invalid data received from dynamic ctr 1. We cleared the codes to see if it happened again. It was fine until this morning 10/10/14. I started the car and after about 30 seconds or so the same thing happened. I drove another car to school. My dad checked and found the same error codes. Now i don't think it is safe to drive, not knowing when it may occur again. I looked on line and noticed others with the same problem. Can you help? my dad is handling this problem for me so i am putting down his contact info.
The first time my throttle control lamp lit up, i had just gotten off of the highway, went through mcdonald's drive thru and came to a stop...the light came on, the engine started to race and shake and i had no acceleration ability. The car did move without the gas pedal when i took my foot off the break. I moved to a safe location and call aaa. After the car was off, the light did not come back on when re-started. A few days later (4 or 5), i was driving home from work. I got off of the interstate to re-connect with another interstate. I was stopped at a light waiting to turn left onto the on ramp. When the light changed, there was no acceleration, the throttle control lamp was on again and the engine was revving and shaking again. I move forward enough to get out of harms way and waited, once again, for a tow service on the side of the interstate.
I purchased this 2007 dodge caliber rt awd in dec of 2012. The dealership grand chrysler dodge jeep in lowell, michigan on main st, reported to me the consumer, before purchase, at my request, a vehicle history stating 1 owner vehicle with no accidents. Thank god i did get the warranty because less than 14 days fresh off the lot, the vehicle loss all power and barely driveable, the car, while i was driving it, on the highway around 55 to 60 mph, lost speed real quickly and and could barely drive it to get it off the road. The vehicle coded at service shop 02 censors and catillatic convertor, the vehicle was at the dealer service dept and back and forth from my home for more than a month, until finally the caliber had to be seen by a service representative from chrysler/dodge and now pushing 2 months without the vehicle not only did the 02 sensors and catillatic convertor had to be replaced, but the computer too. Got the vehicle back drove it 3 months and the vehicle had grinding in the front end,electrical seat heating and blinkers systems were malfunctioning, each tim the engine light came on and the vehicle remained sluggish and unsafe to drive, but the dealership lacked concern and made me drive it in the unsafe condition from west olive michigan to lowell.oct 2014 the vehicle almost caused me to get into a serious rear end accident. I was driving 60mph on the highway and it went from 60 mph to 10 mph just like that cars on the highway swirved to miss hitting me and i was almost rear ended. The car completely stalled. A gentleman stopped to help me push it off the road.. Vehicle and i sat for alomost an hour waiting for tow service. Service dept. Coded the vehicle with a crank shaft censor problem and a recall as well for the front end cross member rusts out and cause bad settling and excessive tire pressure from the errosion not supporting the sub frame.
2007 dodge caliber r/t awd.my wife found 2 small brass bushings on the drivers side floor.while i was driving the car, during acceleration onto an interstate, it appeared that the accelerator pedal stuck and car continued to accelerate even after i removed foot from pedal.i pulled the pedal up with my foot to free up pedal.i searched online and found a couple of other references to a similar problem occurring with other caliber owners.took vehicle to my preferred mechanic, and he has to order a new accelerator pedal assembly.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber awd. The contact was stopped with her foot on the brake when there was an unusual increase in engine rpms. The vehicle then abnormally accelerated and independently came to a stop. The dealer was unable to duplicate the failure and the vehicle was not repaired. The failure continued to recur intermittently and the vehicle was taken back to an authorized dealer where the computer was replaced. The failure continued to recur intermittently. The failure mileage was 30,000 and the current mileage is 66,000. Updated10/28/10 updated 11/01/10
In july 2009 i returned to the dealer for a service, i also complained about the car intermittently not accelerating properly from a stop or near stop, it hesitated dramatically. The dealer could not replicate the problem and could do nothing to fix it. This is still an ongoing issue.then in june of 2013, while driving on a four lane highway at approximately 65 miles an hour, the car lost all acceleration, a moment later started a warning beep and the check engine light came on. I immediately put on the flashers while trying to maneuver from the middle lane to the shoulder of the road, after a week at the mechanic he called me to inform me that it could be the crank sensor, which was a known issue with this model vehicle. He replaced the sensor and i was informed that the issue was corrected. I didn't get five miles from the mechanic when the car again lost all acceleration and the engine light came on again. The mechanic towed the car back the next day. He had the representative from chrysler to his shop several times regarding the issue. The rep thought the computer needed an update and that is what was done, it did not solve the issue. (i was never notified by chrysler that the computer had updates that were required.) the mechanic had several other professionals look at the car, all of which were not finding the problem. They also had no new computer codes, which was when they realized the power train control module was the problem. This took a month to solve and the cost was $1130.
Nhtsa action number: pe10012 - 2007 dodge caliber awd srt - vehicle speed control problem.in my case the rpm shot up to 4000rpm while i was driving 30 mph. This happened 3x in one month.applying brake had no effect on high engine speed. My reaction was to put vehicle in neutral and gun the gas pedal. This reset idle back to normal. This problem has not return and i have not done anything to have it checked or repair yet.
The contact owns a 2007 dodge caliber awd. While driving approximately 30 mph, the vehicle started to lose power and acceleration. The vehicle also hesitated. The vehicle was driven to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the throttle body failed and needed replacement. The dealer was not contacted. The contact also stated that the throttle body was replaced five years ago by salt lake valley dodge in salt lake city, utah. The manufacturer was not contacted. The vehicle was being repaired by an independent mechanic. The approximate failure mileage was 56,000.
The cross member on the underside is badly corroded and should be replaced but is a little expensive.i have had to already replace both control arms, both ball joints and one had already been replaced by after market ball joint.the struts have had to be replaced as well.a car with these miles should not need all this front end work.i have seen this to be not just my situation. My cruise control worked when we bought this vehicle with 85,000 now does not work.
There were no events leading up to any of these failures.i simply bought a brand new 2007 dodge caliber in june of '06 and to date have experienced the following problems:1. A humming noise (similar to that of a "rice burner" car) in the rear of the vehicle that took over three trips to the service department (from august 2006 to january 2007) and a total of 20 days being out of service is at present repaired.2.there is a rattle underneath the car, either coming from the middle or the rear when not applying the gas and simply "cruising" down the road.but when i hit the gas it goes away.3.there is anoise in the front tires when i am driving between 1 and 3 rpms.4.the car pulls to the right.5.the headlights dim intermittently for no reason, as if there is a power drain.6.the volume control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.7.the station changer control on the steering wheel intermittently doesn't work.8.when driving the car without the auto stick, the delay in pick-up is very slow.this is a constant problem.9.the cruise control has a mind of its own and increased in speed all by itself on a straight stretch of road.10.the ac fan began making excessive noise one month after we bought it and it was serviced properly and remains in working order.11. When i am sitting in the passenger seat and we go around sharp corners or stop or start quickly, the seat makes clicking noises underneath and moves slightly even though it appears to be in a locked position.12.the middle armrest console is loose and causes injury when entering the car and placing your elbow/arm on it for balance.13.the pin striping began to wear off the first time i washed the car which was within weeks of purchase.i filed lemon law after problem #1 was in service for three attempts and 15 days out of service.i'm told that since it is fixed, they will address and attempt to fix the remaining issues.
The rear windshield wiper stopped functioning.a dealer re-flashed the computer at no charge.repair lasted one year.the wiper is again not functioning but now the dealer wants to charge $100.00 to reflash the tipm.
Fiance had a seizure and car went to side of road. Car flopped on the left driver side and crashed into trees. Air bags did not deploy, seat belts were intact and working. Previously, seat belts were found to unlatch at times when driver was in car and car was in motion. Amazed that seat belts worked because it saved our lives. Airbags did not deploy.
While turning the corner the rear tire leaned in and rubbed against the strut spring causing tire damage and damage to the strut spring.the cars sub frame is completely rusted and will not hold the suspension parts that hold the rear tire in place and straight.tire falls in and rubs on strut spring. Under body parts are rusting from air conditioning draining into sub frame. Car was so bad it had to be loaded onto a flat bed and be hauled to the mechanic to see if it repairable and to see how bad the other side is. This should not happen with only 100,000 miles on the frame.dodge should be held accountable for this!
When driving in the winter, snow has a tendency to build up on the inside of all the wheels. The inside diameter surface of the wheel is flat not allowing any build up of snow to work its way out causing the wheel assembly to become extremely unbalanced. Clearing the snow is difficult at best. The wheel should have been designed with some sort of taper to allow the snow to come out or when melting in the warmer part of the day to fall out, not build up on the bottom of the wheel. This is a constant occurrence that i have to deal with every winter, many times a week. ## vin failed ##
Car swerved to the left suddenly and forcefully twice. First time was on a 3 lane road. If another vehichile were in the lane next to me there would have been a serioius collision. Second time nearly avoided a head on collision with oncoming traffic. Then when i pulled into my drive way, the u-joint on my front passender tire broke completely. Car became undrivable and had to be towed.
Read more
