We found the following complaints for CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1500 (2004)
Read complaints for CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1500 (2004)
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500.while driving approximately 45 mph, the contact fell asleep and crashed the vehicle into a tree.the frontal air bags failed to deploy.the driver received injuries to the face and neck.the insurance company stated that the vehicle was destroyed.the vin was unknown.the current and failure mileages were 190,000.
Takata recall. The gauge cluster stopped working.now the ignition and ac will not work.oil pressure sensor reading wrong.took it to get code read and 35 codes came up.had to put on a toggle switch just to start it.cant see speed and that makes it very dangerous to drive at this point.think all of this is due to water leak on drivers side.steering controls stopped working today.thisreally need to be a safety concern to the manufacturer as it could really get someone hurt or killed.
Speed reads 120mph and not moving .
2004 suburban with less than 65000 miles, cuts out driving at various speeds, sitting at traffic light, uphill or down hill.vehicle gives no warning, no lights light up, just all of a sudden no power. Can start back up sometimes immediately, sometimes after several minutes.after researching online seems to be a common problem issue with the vehicle, called dealer and they said there is no recall even though it is obviously a safety issue.
My speedometer stopped working on my vehicle about 2 weeks ago.when i am at a complete stop, it shows i am going anywhere between 50-70 mph.when i am going 40 mph, it shows i am going over 120 mph.i believe this is a safety issue because i have no idea how fast i am going and obviously, speed limits are there for a reason.i have contacted chevy and also a local dealer and they are aware that this has been a huge problem on 2003 and 2004 chevy and gmc vehicles.they have a special coverage for it, but it ends at 70,000 miles.my vehicle has 71,000 miles on it and so, they will not fix it without charging me around $700.there is a class action lawsuit pending regarding this issue.it is not normal wear and tear, as evidenced by the huge # of vehicles affected and it should be a recall item, as it affects safety .
2004 suburban 85,000 miles - speedometer skipped under decel from 55 mph, inaccurate readings of 20, 40, 60 mph when stopped. Speedometer now reads past 120 mph & is completely inoperative. Apparently this is a rather common occurrence - a very costly instrument cluster repair does not mean the issue is corrected (it may reoccur).
While driving i notice my speedometer not working on my 2004 chevy suburban. My wife called henderson chevrolet. They asked what our mileage was. It was 92,000 miles. They said it would cost over $800.00. I never knew there was a recall on the speedometer cluster till i put a search in on the internet. Can someone help us?
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500.while towing a u-haul trailer at 75 mph, the vehicle completely shut off without warning.the vehicle coasted to the right lane and failed to restart in the neutral position.the vehicle had to be physically shut off in order to restart.the contact filed complaint number 71-547942923 with chevrolet.the current and failure mileages were 54,000.
Transfer case had to be replaced before 70000 miles due to bearing. Passenger air went out and only blew hot after a battery change, had to replace entire air system. Air system went out again with 2nd battery replacement, but dealer was able to "reset" it. Speedometer only works sometimes. Binding noise in steering column , has been lubed numerous times while waiting for chevy to issue a recall according to dealer. This vehicle is driven under 15000 milesa year.
Speedometer reads that i'm going faster than i am. I cannot tell how fast i am going. When the vehicle is off it registers 10mph. This concerns me greatly since this is my only vehicle and i have three children that ride with me everywhere i go. I researched this on the internet have found manyproblems with the speedometer on this vehicle. Should be a recall. This is dangerous!!!!
Instrument cluster went dead no speedometer nothing.
Speedometer is erratic.
The speedometer on my '04 chevy suburban has become erratic, and progressively gets "faster" and faster until it registers 120mph setting still.repeatedly turning the car on and off will reset the speedometer, but it recurs within a few days.
2004 chevrolet suburban goes into reduced power engine w/o reason change the engine, because high miles, change transmission, change throttle body,change gas pedal module, change catalytic converter spend over 4,000 on the truck without counting the accident can occur in the interstate 78 west because of the lost of power, dealers don't know what is the problem neither the local mechanics can you please take action in this matter and read at edmonds.com and see all the complains about the same problem
Speedometer does not give accurate readings, and often stops working completely.
Speedometer failure.the speedometer goes from 0-120 in a matter of a few seconds and back down.i cannot tell how fast i am going.there are hundreds of similar incidences found on the internet.i haven't heard of any real issues, but i could see it happening if you were not with other traffic to verify your speed.
Speedometer erratic, stuck on 71mph. Will not function, severe safety hazard and common to many other chevrolet owners.
Speedo does not read correct, it gets stuck at various numbers...while driving or parked on or off (speed can be plus or minus actual speed by 5-55 mph at any given time. And you never know when, also the oil pressure gauge will go past the marked limit when the truck is off, no key in the ignition.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact stated that the speedometer gauge and fuel gauge would not display an accurate reading whenever the vehicle was in operation. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer for a diagnostic testing where they detected that the needle within both gauges was stuck and informed that the instrument panel would need to be replaced to correct the problem. The manufacturer previously issued a voluntary recall associated with the instrument panel however the contact did not receive the notification. The vehicle was not included in the recall due to the excessive mileage, although the manufacturer stated that they would consider extending the special coverage under the recall. The contact was waiting upon a response from the manufacturer regarding the repair. The failure mileage was approximately 82,000.
2004 chevy suburban - about a year or two ago my speedometer started acting up.it would say i was doing 10 mph when i was on the highway or i could be going 30 or 35 and it would say i was going 110 mph.this went on for months before it finally just quit working.i have to drive with a gps just to know how fast i'm going.i have heard and read of many other cases exactly like this.seems to me this should be a recall for a defective speedometer.i don't have the $400 or $500 they want to fix it.
2004 chevrolet suburban air conditioning intermittently blows hot air only on the driver's side using the dual zone ac control.gm has no idea how to fix this issue. While researching found thousands of chevy owner all with the same complaint and with no real fix.there seems to be some connection between the battery/loss of power and the climate control module being defective.
Gauge failure, specifically the speedometer, on the instrument panel.the speedometer works intermittently and also gets stuck at a speed > than 75 mph when my vehicle is going much slower than that and then registers > 120mph when i am going around 60-65 mph.
The speedometer is completely gone along with several gauges such as the oil, gas, and rpm meters. I am unable to tell how much gas i have or how fast i am going. This has happened a lot to these vehicles over the past 10 years. Gm offered a repair but only for vehicles who were not over a certain mileage. This is a safety issue and needs to be repaired in all vehicles. Additional, the electrical system is out of whack. My heated seats turn all the way up to high without me pressing anything. My tv system is not working. Everything seems to be falling apart.
The speedometer in my 2004 chevy suburban is not working properly.when traveling only 50 mph it reads 91 mph.can't tell how fast i'm driving.
Vehicle is a 4wd model, equipped with electronically controlled transfer case. The control only works intermittently. Several times i have been caught in a snowstorm and unable to use the 4wd. This is a serious safety issue.i had the control repaired once, but the problem quickly returned. I am told this is a very common problem with 4wd chevrolet and gmc trucks, for many model years.
2004 chevy suburban- speedometer and oil psi gauges read erratic.speedometer can read zero one minute and 120 another,very erratic.oil pressure gage reads 0-80 at any time.many documented cases but no recall on defective stepper motors.internet shows many repairs being made on theses clusters replacing defective stepper motors. Dealer repair to replace defective cluster $400
2004 chevy suburban with approximately 125000 miles had instrument cluster failure with the oil pressure gauge and the alternator or charging system gauge after a drop in the ambient temperature. Took to dealership who said the entire cluster must be replaced.
Our 2004 chevrolet suburban lt has approximately 115k miles.periodically the entire instrument cluster, with the exception of a couple of lights, stops working.no gauges, no speedometer, etc.sometimes when this happens the driver information center displays strange and random characters, sometimes the dic section is all blue, and sometimes it is blank.i have tried disconnecting the battery to reset the computer.this seemed to work one time, but the rest of the time this had no effect.there doesn't seem to be any pattern (day/night, hot/cold, etc.) as to when this malfunction will occur, or when it will return to normal.we are in day 2 of an instrument panel failure at this time.
I have been having problems on and off with speedometer for the last 4 or 5 months. Thought it was a temperature related problem.today i called the dealer because it seems to be acting up more often.i was told it would be $500.00.then i found out that the warranty had been extended several years ago and i was never notified.i have spoke to haywood allen motor co. (5/28/08) and also chevrolet customer service and received sr #71-631086777 (5/8/08). Still waiting for chevy dealer to call me back about extended coverage.
Vehicle gas gauge and odometer gauges clusters are not working this puts us in danger i did not know how much gas i need and how fast i was going this should be fixed by the manufacturer because it was a cluster defect
The gear shift indicator lights in the gm instrument cluster are no longer working. This creates a safety issue because the driver can shift into the incorrect gear accidentally causing an accident. There is no other alternate gear shift indicator in the vehicle.
2004 chevrolet suburban speedometer reading is inaccurate, reading anywhere from 20 to 50 mph too high.this is a hazard while driving due to inability to accurately gauge speed, causing tendency to drive too slowly.run risk of traffic ticket.chevy dealership acknowledges that this is common problem but only provides special issue service for vehicles between 70,000 to 80,000 miles on odometer.
The gm instrument cluster stepper motors and lights have failed. This results in a safety hazard because it is important to know the speed of the vehicle and the fuel level as well as other important engine information.
2004 1500 suburban stalls without warning.no service codes to point to troubles.a search online shows the amount people having trouble. Changed crank positioner sensor, plugs, and injector cleaner.no change no help from dealer without spending thousands.it is stalling on busy streets and highways no accident yet but very close calls. It happens now every day mostly after warmed up and stopping and speeding up again.i read online that ca has a recall but nothing nation wide.i don't have the resources to trade or spend thousands for a defect that is a safety hazard.
After replacing temperature sensor on engine by garage, the temperature gauge continues to act with high readings & now it has pegged to maximum high temp.this is disconcerting and my wife & i are very nervous to drive it in not knowing if it is a real issue of concern.even though we are not original owners, and that there has been related issues with speedometer, temp gauge, sensor, and more covered by company, they will not do so now according to local chevy dealership & ethically i think once the repairs have been noted and then show up should be honored.i believe that the company would have set aside the parts and money to install.video of repair looks like a skilled mechanic could reset original miles on current bad gauge set to replacement and pop in within 15-30 minutes.cost for panel is about $300 and if i ship it out to an online repair center they'll charge about $90 for replacement part with upgraded parts for durability.as a veteran who had to retire from a civilian job early due to my disabilities and the money these car companies received from bank crashes stabilization in the time of offered replacement wouldn't i be eligible based on that?
The speedometer does not always start at 0 sometimes it starts at 20mph sometimes at 30mph . When you start the vehicle it does this. Also the oil gage is at 40 with the vehicle and goes over 80+ i'm scared to drive my vehicle.canyou help me .
Speedometer and oil pressure starting displaying erratic reading any where from 0-120+ and oil psi of 0 to pegging gage.after research of dealers and repair facilities data confirmed this is a know defect and caused by defective stepper motors.setting cruise control hamper this defect by not knowing what actual speed is when engaging cruise control. Also have second vehicle that just started with same issues today 12-22-06.2004 gmc yukon xl
Speedometer does not work or indicates wrong speed.most instrument gauges are not working or are intermittent in their operation.
I own a 2004 chevrolet suburban z71.during the past week, the speedometer has been registering erratic speeds while driving at a constant pace.today, the speedometer quit working altogether.the vehicle has only 59,450 miles on it, and has not been used in any off road excursions.not having an accurate speed reading while driving a vehicle of this size is a significant safety issue to the driver and passengers of this vehicle, and other vehicles on the roadway.i understand this is a fairly common issue with this make, model, and year vehicle.as such, i believe the manufacturer needs to enter into a safety recall to fix this issue.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500.the contact stated that the speedometer was inoperative and displayed inaccurate readings.the dealer stated that the instrument control panel needed to be replaced at the cost of over $300.as of march 17, 2009, the vehicle has not been repaired.the manufacturer did not assist.the failure mileage was 82,000 and current mileage was 84,000. Updated 04-14-09 updated 04/15/09.
The speedometer on the vehicle is not showing the true speed (it some times shows 110 when you are going 45, or shows 35 when you are going 65. This is not safe while driving on any road.
My 2004 chevy suburban speedometer is malfunctioning, sometimes it works other times it does not move or is indicating the incorrect speed.
My 2004 surburban, the instrument cluster began failing at 75,000 miles. It is a daily occurrence of the speedometer showing incorrect speed, the oil pressure gauge is pegged most of the time.
At 35000 miles the speedometer would make a ticking noise and start moving with a notchy motion.when driving it could read 40-75 mph while doing less than 10 mph.at 60+ mph it could read 100+ mph.after multiple restarts the speedometer would return to 0.the problem seemed like it would worsen when the temperature was colder, but it could be coinsidence.took the vehicle into the chevrolet dealer where it was diagnosed as having a faulty guage cluster and replaced under warranty.while in the dealer there were 2 other people with similar trucks having the same thing replaced.now i see online that this is common with nearly every suburban and chevrolet/gmc truck in model years 2004-2005.this should be a recalled part and could be a make for a costly/dangerous drive for someone.
Speedometerhas not worked for over a year.the needle is always pinned.once in a while it will start at approximatelly 30mph at idle. Local dealer advised approx. 500.00 to fix.
Electrical components are not working.odometer, fuel gauge, oil gauge, battery gauge, temperature gauge do not work - the only gauge that does work is the speedometer.looking at all the complaints, i should assume the speedometer will be going out.the temperature gauge could be very dangerous - it reads 250 - 260 all the time.you do not know if your are running hot or not.the gas gauge needle is totally upset down - we have to go off our "how many miles 'til we run out go gas" screen to determine how much gas we have.i've replaced the power steering pump - $775, the chip for the gas pedal (when out - you could not go any faster than 10 miles per hour $800), the driver side leather seat started to wear down @ 40,000 miles - now has a tear in it, the steering column makes a knocking noise, the dash makes a popping noise when the air conditioner is on, front seem to wear down fast, etc.i could go on, but..........it seems i got a lemon.this was a $47,000 sticker priced car - you would think you wouldn't have this many problems.there seems to be a lot of complaints on instrument panel problems - seems chev should look into this - dangerous.these are family - childrenvehicles!!!
The entire control panel on the dash will go out including: speedometer, rpm, gas, oil, etc. When this happens the message center, including the odometer, is blank also.at first this happened periodically upon starting up the vehicle it would not come on but would come own a few minutes after driving.then it started not coming on at all.
Speedometer (pin or needle) freezes and periodically fluctuates. The driver is unable to determine the speedthe vehicle is traveling. Upon approaching a hill, curve or bad weather the driver is able to negotiate speed properly,making this very dangerous and unsafe.
2004 chevrolet surburban.the speedometer needle sticks.at first it only happened occasionally.a month later it is sticking at 0 miles per hour most of the time. Many complaints to gm.they finally issued special policy but will not fix my vehicle because the odometer reads 79,216.this is a known defect on many gm models year 2003-2004.the dealership will not even discuss the issue.this is safety issue that gm should take care no matter the mileage of the vehicle.this vehicle is only four years old.the repair will cost between $800 - $1000 or more.
Speedometer does not work. Unsure of my speed very unsafe.
Bought my 2004 chevy suburban in feb. 2008. It had 75,000 miles on it. Drove it for a month and the speedometer would fluctuate 3-4 mph at highway speeds and the work fine for a week or so before acting up. At 92,000 miles speedometer went totally out, reading 0 one minute and bouncing to 120 the next. Now it just sits on zero for most of the time. Would not know if it ever read the correct mph if it wasn't for the gps. Have not replaced anything yet. But will have to shortly because the texas safety inspection is due in november. I think this is why the previous owner traded it in and didn't tell any one.
Started suddenly.. Speedometer registering much greater speed(s) than actual speed. Even off/parked registering in excess of 80 mph.rpm gauge was sticking on & off but all other gauges as of now seem to be functioning properly.
Speedometer failure leading to hazardous operating conditions.in reviewing the internet, speedometer failures are problematic for chevrolet suburbans and the manufacturer refuses to acknowledge or repair the defect.
2004 chevy suburban speedometer fails sporadically. Will stick at anytime without notice. Showing up to 120 miler per hour while parked. Cannot ascertain exact of speed of vehicle. Wper haps effects odometer and hour meter.
I noticed while i was driving that the speedometer seemed a little off and i was correct it starts at 10mph and while driving its about 13 mph off.
Gauge for speedometer gets stuck or doesn't measure at all.contacted the dealer and they said my vehicle was above the 70k amount & 80k.i have never been contacted on this issue.but yet i get mailings for service work.the failure is ongoing.
I started the homeward segment of an 800 mile trip on july 4th weekend. Speedometer appears to be working correctly because i made it through the first police radar checkpoint without any problems. I exited the interstate and entered a 4 lane highway. After driving an estimated 50 miles for the day i was stopped by the state police. He said that his radar had me going 74 in a 55 speed zone when me speedometer indicated 55 mph. When the officer informed me of my speed, i looked at my speedometer and saw the needle was below 0 mph. The scary part of this is that i did not realize that i was going over the speed limit, probably because i was acclimated to the higher interstate speed, my speed odometer indicated i was traveling the speed limit, and up until this time i had no indication that my speedometer was not working properly. I continued with the trip and used my gps to keep me at a safe speed the rest of the trip.i compared the speedometer mph with the gps mph many times throughout the rest of the trip. The speed odometer went down to 0 mph when i was driving 65 mph after driving an estimated additional 40 miles. After driving an additional 30 miles the speed odometer was indicating the correct speed. The speedometer malfunctioned about 70% of the trip. It would alternate between not working correctly and working correctly throughout the trip. I took the vehicle to the chevy dealer the first business day back home. The dealer said the whole instrument cluster must be replaced. I authorized the dealer to replace the instrument cluster and the defective instrument cluster is going back to be refurbished. This failure compromised not only my safety but also my family's safety and the safety of other drivers. Researching the internet, i am finding this problem seems to be widespread.
Defective speedometer - 2004 chevy suburban.
Erratic to none speedometer operation, no repairs made as of now, researching problem, found to be pretty wide spread on gm suv's and trucks.
I have a 2004 chevrolet suburban lt with approximately 48,000 miles and my speedometer has begun to malfunction. At time it increases in a stepwise manner and other times, it does not show my speed at all. One time i was going with traffic and estimated my speed to be ~ 60 mph along with the traffic, my speedometer read 35 mph. I took it in to the dealer and i was told it may take 2-3 days for repair and ~ $600. I would think a speedometer should work for at least 100,000 miles or more. In checking, i see there have been many such failures and feel that the consumer should not be held accountable for such failures.have there been any recalls on this problem? if so, how do i file my complaint?
While at highway speeds, the speedometer stuck and gradually faded to 0.it started working again once the vehicle had been shut off.
Speedometer failure.30% of time, speedometer output is false.needle sticks in various positions that causes false reading.
Another 2004 chevrolet suburban speedometer failure. It went to 60mph when i was stopped, then past 120mph and stuck there. Now is completely inoperable stuck at 120mph.
My 2004 chevrolet suburban with 88,000 miles has a faulty speedometer and i am unable to tell what speed i am going at all times!i have a 4 year old and a 6 year old in the car with me often and this causes me great concern over the safety of my family and i.
The speedometer fails in my 2004 chevy suburban, the speedometer bounces between speeds and sticks at any given speed. No real solution other than replace the instrument panel . Gm takes no liability for the problem. (9 others in the area have the same problem.
Speedometer register greatly incorrect speed (off by 20 to 30 mph).
I would like to raise a complaint regarding the instrument cluster on my 2004 chevrolet suburban.the speedometer reading has become erratic and never reports the proper speed.at times it may be 0, at others it may be 120 mph, and at other times just all over the place.this has become a real safety issue when driving alone on a road or in visibly impaired conditions since you just have no reference to know how fast you are traveling.after conducting searches on my own, this is apparently a rampant problem during these year's gm models.the dealer wants approximately $500 to fix it and this just seems very unfair for a $40,000 3 year old vehicle.since this appears to be a very common problem, i would like to urge chevrolet to step up and recall vehicles for this issue so that we can have it fixed.thank you,debra troiano.
Speedometer is erratic and inaccurate. Very dangerous!
A couple of months ago i received a letter from gm informing me of a potential defect on the speedometer of any 04 chevy suburban, but it stated that i should not take the vehicle to the dealership unless there is a problem. Yesterday 9-22-08coming back from my son ball game the speedometer was stuck on 70 and when my husband applied the brake instead of decreasing the speedometer was going toward the 120 mark and we were almost at a complete stop. Now gm did send information that there might be problems but don't do anything unless you suspect problems. Anyway i have 78,000 miles on this vehicle and gm sent a letter that they will fix it no charge if it is under 70,000. Its a defect there shouldn't be a time limit to get it replaced a defective speedometer. It is extremely dangerous especially when children are in the vehicle. Why should anyone pay for an item that is defective. It should be replaced at no charge. I have heard of other people with the same problem as i have had. Something needs to be done such as a recall instead of a possible defect letter. Please help!
Speedometer sticks then at idle it says you are going 70 mph.if you start and stop the vehicle multiple it comes down 5 miles per hour and eventually you get back to zero.however, it will do this again and again and needs to be fixed because you can't tell you how fast you are going and i almost lost is on a 45 mile hour turn speedo said i was going 120 but in reality after stopping the suburban i figured out i was doing about 55.this happens at all mileage and is a defect.chevy recalled, i believe, up to 30,000 miles.owners say it happens at 20,000; 40,000; 50,000, and well any mileage.i had 90,000 when mine started.i read one person who at 90,000 got his fixed free.chevy wouldn't fix mine.this is a safety issue that needs to be called.please help.i reported to chevy but they wouldn't fix.internet says it can happen to any of the gauges in the cluster.there is a guy in oregon that replaces the 6 stepper motors.chevy should do this for us.i've owned chevy's all my life (i"m 49) but if they don't fix this i'm done.i'd rather have a toyota at least they are recalling.do a google search - everyone is having this problem.
Fuel gauge and speedometer on gmc/chevy suburban, 2004 year.this is the second time i have had to replace the gauge cluster and gmc/chevy dealer insist this is not a safety issue and not their problem.since replacing the fist cluster, there have been many more complaints noted on the internet.this is clearly not an exceptional defect.the failure has come after about two to three years of use, and is worse in winter, but occurs inconsistently year around.i have not yet had an accident, but i did run out of gas in a rural area in the winter because the gauge said i had half a tank when it was infact empty.speed is an issue in icy road conditions because it is very difficult to know if your speed is appropriate for the conditions when the speed shows zero or bounces around inconsistently.the failure has occurred at about 30k miles for each cluster. Lack of support by gm on this is disconcerting.please assist.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500.the contact received a notice from the manufacturer stating that they were aware that some of their models were experiencing speedometer failure.they further stated that the repairs would not be free.shortly afterwards, the contact's speedometer failed and the dealer refused to repair it for free.she believes this is a safety issue and a manufacturer defect.the powertrain was unknown.the failure mileage was 84,000 and current mileage was 89,000.
Speedometer stopped working when odometer read 76,000 miles.does not work at all.currently read 120 mph.dealer will not fix as warranty has expired.speedometer stopped working due to poor quality, not improper use.
Speedometer has completely failed on my 2004 chevrolet suburban.this is a known, widespread problem that gm refuses to acknowledge as a safety issue ... And refuses to make good on ... Despite the fact that they have already been compensated by the parts supplier.it's time for the department of transportation to step in, declare this as a safety issue (which it is), and encourage general motors to make good on these faulty parts ... Irrespective of the arbitrary mileage cutoff they have imposed.additional background on the issue, from a media source...http://www.wthr.com/global/story.asp?s=7434450.
2004 chevy suburban speedometer failure. First had erratic behavior of speedometer, it just dropped out eventually going to zero while traveling down the interstate highway. I spoke with a dealer, they said it was a common problem that cost about $700 to repair. The vehicle was just out of warranty. As i can gage speed off the tachometer, i've waited a year to address it hoping for a recall. In the mean time the speedometer has quit working all together.my wife normally drives this vehicle and does not have the same feel for gauging speed from the tachometer. She is concerned about safety of traveling cross country by herself and is demanding that i fix it. Reading up on the issue on the internet i was referred to this site. It appears that there are many people with the same problem. Certainly gm should make a reliable product. Failure on gm's part to recognize the problem will at a minimum result in loss of customers, i would hate to see it result in loss of life from drivers, unaware of their speed, ending up in a fatal accident. If gm will not respond to this safety issue maybe you will.
The speedometer regularly fails to work, usually reading an incorrect speed (checked against a handheld gps device) and occasionally does not work at all.
I have a 2004 chevrolet suburban and the speedometer has begun to show an erratic behavior.when i am going 55 mph the speedometer may show 120 mph and it does not reset itself to 0 mph at a stop.
Speedometer began showing incorrect speed up to 100mph on rural highway and 20-30 mph while parked.stopped and turned vehicle off to attempt to reset but still incorrect speed registered.dealership had to replace instrument control panel.
2004 suburban speedometer malfunction.unable to determine speed.it appears to be a common occurrence with gm refusing to fix.
2004 chevy suburban speedometer stuck and max speed with 72,300 miles. I also own 2004 chevy tahoe with oil pressure gauge stuck at maximum with 92,000 miles.
Speedometer quit working on 2004 suburban.
Speedometer failure. Speedometer shows 60mph when vehicle is in park, and higher speeds in drive.
I was driving on an icy road outside of chicago when i almost lost control of my vehicle due to speed creep this was caused by the speedometer of the vehicle failing and sticking at 37 mph.i estimate that when i skidded out that i was most likely going over 50 mph.i've had multiple problems where the speedometer has stuck afterward, but was able to avoid similar incidences because i realized their could be a problem.i am driving a 2004 chevrolet suburban.this is not a safe situation.if there were other traffic, structures, or pedestrians around property mayhave been damaged and people may have been injured or killed. It is not an isolated incident either.if you go to www.topix.net you can read 380 postings of people having the same problems. Just type in suburban speedometer stuck.
Speedometer fluttering\sticking recall came out after my vehicle was beyond the warranty mileage.
Defect horns in 2004 chevy suburban 1500,we had to replace it 2 times and others are having the same problems.
At random you will just be driving down the road and a message comes on that says reduce engine power and the t/c light comes on along with the check engine light. This has happened several times, is very unsafe, and is getting worse. We have had work done to try and fix the problem but its still happening. We don't have tons of money to fix this, live in the country, and have 5 kids. This is our only transportation and we have a rather large loan on the thing and its turning into yard art.
Exhaust manifold leak check engine light on bolts broken on exhaust manifold.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact stated while starting the ignition, a loud knocking noise emitted from the engine. In addition, coolant was dispensed into the radiator reservoir every two days without coolant visible on the ground. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer, who stated that the water pump would need to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired and the failure persisted. The vehicle had not been repaired.the manufacturer was notified of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.
Bought this vehicle a few days before the first incident. I drove it home from over two hours away, drove it all around the day before, no problems. Then i was driving down a bypass at about 60 miles an hour and the engine shut off! i had no power steering, nothing! i was able to pull over, shut it off and once i turned it back over it was just fine. So i cautiously started driving, it happened again a few miles down the road only this time it stalled then regained power and quickly shut off again. Once engine was turned off and restarted, it was fine, it did this to me 5 times within 5 miles. I almost got hit two of those times by other vehicles, once when i was turning onto a road. I am glad my kids were not in it. I am scared to drive on two lane roads without room to pull over.
My 2004 chevy suburban just dies while driving, i loose power steering & my brakes.it has happened 2x in 2 days. It presents a very dangerous situation, for myself & other drivers.when a diagnostic is run it is negative, nothing shows up.all of this out of nowhere.
2004 chevrolet suburban goes into reduced power engine w/o reason change the engine, because high miles, change transmission, change throttle body,change gas pedal module, change catalytic converter spend over 4,000 on the truck without counting the accident can occur in the interstate 78 west because of the lost of power, dealers don't know what is the problem neither the local mechanics can you please take action in this matter and read at edmonds.com and see all the complains about the same problem
I bought a new 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500 ls in early september 2005.one evening i went to a restaurant to eat, went inside and was seated. Maybe 5 minutes passed, could have been less. The owner began yelling that a vehicle in the lot was on fire. I looked out the window and saw what i thought was a car next to mine bellowing smoke. I ran outside to move my 2004 suburban away from the burning car and to myamazement discovered it was my suburban! there was absolutely no prior indication of anything wrong such as an over-heated engine. No indication of any malfunction whatsoever. The engine was completely off when this fire started.
Driving down the road one day and reduced engine light comes on.my suburban slows to about 35mph and will not go any faster.this occurs about 15 times a month.i am concerned about people driving behind me when it comes to a sudden slow if i can not get off the road.we have brought it to a dealership 3 times.they did not know what was wrong.we have changed the throttle pedal positioning sensor, map sensor, crank sensor, knock sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires.nothing has worked.
The coolant level in the reservoir continued to drop, prompting me to refill it weekly.service shop worked on this on and off for several months.after several engine overheating situations, we took it to a different shop.turns out our heads are cracked.they were manufactured by castech and are known to be defective according to gm bulletin #06-06-01-019b (document id 1986750).there is now so much anti-freeze in our engine that the entire motor needs to be replaced due to the corrosive nature of the fluid.gm said that they would pay nothing towards our repair.the engine only has 91k miles and now needs total replacement b/c of an issue that gm knew about since 6/12/07 but never contacted us about.had the replaced the heads back in 2007, we most certainly wouldn't be facing total motor replacement at this time.
At random you will just be driving down the road and a message comes on that says reduce engine power and the t/c light comes on along with the check engine light. This has happened several times, is very unsafe, and is getting worse. We have had work done to try and fix the problem but its still happening. We don't have tons of money to fix this, live in the country, and have 5 kids. This is our only transportation and we have a rather large loan on the thing and its turning into yard art.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact stated while starting the ignition, a loud knocking noise emitted from the engine. In addition, coolant was dispensed into the radiator reservoir every two days without coolant visible on the ground. The vehicle was taken to an authorized dealer, who stated that the water pump would need to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired and the failure persisted. The vehicle had not been repaired.the manufacturer was notified of the problem. The approximate failure mileage was 120,000.
The coolant level in the reservoir continued to drop, prompting me to refill it weekly.service shop worked on this on and off for several months.after several engine overheating situations, we took it to a different shop.turns out our heads are cracked.they were manufactured by castech and are known to be defective according to gm bulletin #06-06-01-019b (document id 1986750).there is now so much anti-freeze in our engine that the entire motor needs to be replaced due to the corrosive nature of the fluid.gm said that they would pay nothing towards our repair.the engine only has 91k miles and now needs total replacement b/c of an issue that gm knew about since 6/12/07 but never contacted us about.had the replaced the heads back in 2007, we most certainly wouldn't be facing total motor replacement at this time.
Dt*: the contact stated while driving 70 mph, the vehicle stalled completely.the vehicle was put in park, and was able to be restarted.it was taken to a service dealer, however the dealer was unable to duplicate the problem.the manufacturer was notified.
I have a 2004 chevy suburban 1500 with 90k miles.in november 2008 at 80k miles i noticed the heater wasn't heating.checked af to find it was a gal low.no leaks detected anywhere and no smoking from exhaust.a few weeks later the same thing happened.after taking the vehicle to 3 garages including one authorized gm dealer, all diagnostic test were negative for cracked heads or head gaskets.suggestive of problem but not definitive.the gm dealer started an oil consumption study d/t having to add 1 - 1.5 quarts oil every 1500 - 2000 miles.in and out of the shop until june 2009 when we experience sudden loss of oil pressure, engine started knocking but not smoking.i changed the oil again and drove the vehicle the next morning.made it 25 miles when oil pressure dropped again and engine started knocking.i actually drove the vehicle back home under full power but alarms going off and no oil pressure.i pulled the oil pan off and found the rod bearings burned and crystallized.now looking at new engine.gm denies problem with that model engine and refuses to offer any assistance.just prior to experiencing the engine problems we did have to replace the catalytic converter.all of instances started around 80k miles.
2004 chev. Suburban. Jack failed when changing tire. Almostfalling on my daughter. The jack is use on other gm model also.
The gm instrument cluster stepper motors and lights have failed. This results in a safety hazard because it is important to know the speed of the vehicle and the fuel level as well as other important engine information.
Transmission slippage; driver side mirror defects; head lamps & loose steering column.biggest issue is transmission.while driving on highway at 70 mph, transmission began slipping without any prior warning.situation was extremely dangerous as it was night-time driving with little or no opportunity to get vehicle off the interstate.other family vehicles have had the same issue with the transmission going out without warning.also, the driver side mirror goes out gradually, as the liquid that defrosts the mirror goes bad and leaks into the mirror.this mirror has already been replaced once, at the cost of $400+.this mirror is also a hazard as the driver is unable to use the mirror to adequate lane and traffic maneuvering.the steering column always seems to be loose.nothing has been done, as of today's date, to correct the transmission issue as it is a costly repair.
2004 suburban with less than 65000 miles, cuts out driving at various speeds, sitting at traffic light, uphill or down hill.vehicle gives no warning, no lights light up, just all of a sudden no power. Can start back up sometimes immediately, sometimes after several minutes.after researching online seems to be a common problem issue with the vehicle, called dealer and they said there is no recall even though it is obviously a safety issue.
Parked in a wet, muddy field, not running, my 2004 chevrolet suburban, caught fire and exploded.
2004 suburban had leak in gas tank. Evap lines on top of fuel tank leaking gas over tank and on ground. Had lines replaced on dec.16, 2008 and leak has reappeared jan. 11, 2009.
On tuesday, january 29, 2008, i was driving my 2004 chevrolet suburban on i-285 in atlanta, ga. When the fuel pump failed.i-285 is an extremely congested , six lane wide, dangerous roadway.sudden loss of power exposed me and 18 year old daughter to possible catastrophic vehicle collision.although this vehicle has 130,000 miles, it is meticulously maintained to avoid just the very situation that happened.there was absolutely no warning of impending power loss.the vehicle was towed to dalton, ga. ( about 90 miles north of atlanta) and the fuel pump was replaced.i have had no drivability issues since.i have owned the vehicle since 2004 and purchased it with 4000 miles.
It is very dangerous to fill the gas tank. Even with the rubber boot sealed against the neck, gasoline splashes out all over the ground. No fire yet. This happens after only a few gallons in put into a 31-gallon tank containing 8-10 gallons. It is very difficult and time consuming to fill this tank.
Vehicle gas gauge and odometer gauges clusters are not working this puts us in danger i did not know how much gas i need and how fast i was going this should be fixed by the manufacturer because it was a cluster defect
We had to change a rear driver side tire because we needed to add air to the tire and the sensor control was broken.we took the tire off and replaced it with the spare.when retrieving the spare we had a very difficulttime getting it off the spare tire holder winch.after struggling with the spare tire for 30 minutes we got it released and when we tried to hoist the winch back up,it would not go up.we tried repeatedly for another 30 minutes without any success.we had to remove the entire tire winch holder part so it wouldn't hang down while driving.i have been calling all morning to try to find the part anddraper chevrolet said they have had a lot of problems with this part but mainly when customers are trying to retrieve the tire.my incident is differentsince it wouldn't go back up.draper chevrolet did not have this part in stock and i have been calling salvage shops as well without any success.i am currently driving without a spare and i drive 60 miles a day on the highway and this is unsafe to be driving without a spare tire because the other tires sensor stem broke on its own. When calling draper chevrolet they said the part cost $170.42 new but they do not have the part in stock.i work 8:30 a.m. To 6:00 p.m. Monday thru friday and can only take care of this on the weekend.which this weekend is christmas day.i hope you understand my predicament and can help me in some way to rectify this problem. I come from a general motors family and have always been able to count on general motors doing the right thing.thank you for your consideration.
My 2004 suburban is extremely well cared for.the vehicle has only 51,000 miles and is kept in perfect running and physical condition.on 10/8/2011 i was performing an extensive visual check of the brake line on the vehicle after reading of some issues with similar vehicle.upon inspection, i saw that the braking systems hydraulic lines are severely corroded in multiple areas.these lines must be replaced to avoid catastrophic failure.on a vehicle of this age and limited mileage this is highly worrisome.i have multiple other vehicles of considerably greater mileage and of older vintage that have not had this corrosion issue.i mention them because they have spent their entire service life, to date, in the same weather/driving conditions.there is no question that the materials used for these brake lines are of an inferior material.a recall is absolutely in order as this is an expensive and time consuming repair that is the result of poor quality parts.
Transfercase on suburuban began to leak around 80k miles when you put on lift you'll see little pin holes in the transfer case.this is caused by a faulty design where the pump rubs a hole from the inside of the t-case to the outside.numerous companies have made a mod kit to address the issue which gm has not.you can put a temp bandage on it using jb weld but the case will need to be replaced.
When driving it will try and engage the 4 wheel drive low.it happened a year ago and then again this week.
Transfer case had to be replaced before 70000 miles due to bearing. Passenger air went out and only blew hot after a battery change, had to replace entire air system. Air system went out again with 2nd battery replacement, but dealer was able to "reset" it. Speedometer only works sometimes. Binding noise in steering column , has been lubed numerous times while waiting for chevy to issue a recall according to dealer. This vehicle is driven under 15000 milesa year.
The vehicle is a 4wd suburban 1500.with 2 wd drive selected and driving at various speeds from 5 mph to 60 mph the vehicle will go into neutral.this has happened 7 or 8 times.each time was in traffic which required illuminating emergency flashers and pulling to side of road.every time presented a safety issue and was fortunate it didn't cause an accident.on one occasion i had just passed a semi on the interstate and had just pulled back into trucks lane when it occurred.dealership could not detect a problem.the gear shift selector remains in "drive", the dash selector remains illuminated in 2wd and i get no messages on instrument panel message center.to troubleshoot i selected "auto 4 wd" on dash selector and operated for a week with no problem.i then selected 2 wd and the problem reappeared within 2 hours of operation.once i stopped, i selected 1,2,3 and r on gear selector with no effect.selected neutral and turned ignition off and then restarted with no effect (on previous occasion i had selected park with vehicle running and noticed a gear grinding noise so didn't want to do that again with engine running).turned ignition off with gear selector in neutral and selected auto 4 wd and then restarted engine which took care of problem.
Transmission slippage; driver side mirror defects; head lamps & loose steering column.biggest issue is transmission.while driving on highway at 70 mph, transmission began slipping without any prior warning.situation was extremely dangerous as it was night-time driving with little or no opportunity to get vehicle off the interstate.other family vehicles have had the same issue with the transmission going out without warning.also, the driver side mirror goes out gradually, as the liquid that defrosts the mirror goes bad and leaks into the mirror.this mirror has already been replaced once, at the cost of $400+.this mirror is also a hazard as the driver is unable to use the mirror to adequate lane and traffic maneuvering.the steering column always seems to be loose.nothing has been done, as of today's date, to correct the transmission issue as it is a costly repair.
Transmission failure.
2004 chevy suburban 1500 4wd normal driving secondary roads.after stopping at a stop light the vehicle transmission shifted normally through second gear. Immediately and without warning the 2-3 shift resulted in severe slippage.there was no noise, no fluid leaks of any kind and no fluid contamination.the vehicle has been serviced by the selling dealer and has had the transmission fluid changed an two occasions by the dealer.a number of complaints about erratic transmission shifts and behaviors were noted each time the vehicle was brought in for routine maintenance and scheduled service.each time the dealership was unable to replicate the problems complained about.upon returning the vehicle to the selling dealer and authorizing removal and tear-down of the transmission we were told it was completely destroyed and needed complete rebuilding.the vehicle was phrased new, has had one driver, never towed anything, has had complete and timely service by the selling dealer.the mileage at the time of failure was 85,000. We had a gm extended warranty which expired at 75,000.the dealer won't cover it and after asking them to contact the chevy zone office to seek some support, i was told that was denied.when i asked for that denial in writing the dealership said that the zone official refused to do so.they are seeking between $2800 - $3,400.00 for repair of the vehicle.
Transmission started slipping causing a "shudder" around 55 mph or lower if i am hauling something.we took in to dealer who said the torque converter clutch is bad and they can replace it or put in a whole new transmission at a cost to us of $3,300.after searching online i found tsb #050730017 which outlines this known problem.i have several friends who havehad this same problem.if this many people are having this problem and it is know by gm i feel it should be handled by them.the technician that handled our repair said that the tranny fluid should be changed every 25-30k miles since we live in a mountainous area and occasionally pull a small horse trailer.the manual states that it should be changed every 50k miles with no reference to terrain.i feel that gm should cover the cost of this repair since they know about the problem and have done nothing to notify owners of the issue or how to correct it.
Vehicle is a 4wd model, equipped with electronically controlled transfer case. The control only works intermittently. Several times i have been caught in a snowstorm and unable to use the 4wd. This is a serious safety issue.i had the control repaired once, but the problem quickly returned. I am told this is a very common problem with 4wd chevrolet and gmc trucks, for many model years.
I drive a 2004 chevrolet suburban z71.when i am driving down the road the transfer case shifts into neutral.i didn't touch the transfer case controls or anything it just goes into neutral.it works just fine in auto 4wd, 4hi, and 4lo.this only occurs while driving in 2hi.i haven't gotten anything fixed yet because electronically it appears that everything is working normally.the mechanic said that he would have to take apart my transfer case and i cant afford it.i was wondering if this was some kind of manufacturer defect or something because it doesn't do this all the time.the problem occurs intermittently.i have never driven this vehicle off-road or have had to use the 4wd for anything.it just seems odd because this vehicle doesn't even have 70000 miles on it.i would think that something like a transfercase would be built to last a little while longer.it hasn't caused an accident yet but has come close a couple of times like when it fails in the middle of an intersection.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contactstated the rear seat belt would not secure in the buckle housing. While attempting to fasten the safety belt, the receiver clasp fractured from the vehicle. In addition, the drivers safety belt would not remain secured in the buckle housing with very little force. The contact stated the vehicle had been repaired. The current and failure miles were 89,500.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contactstated the rear seat belt would not secure in the buckle housing. While attempting to fasten the safety belt, the receiver clasp fractured from the vehicle. In addition, the drivers safety belt would not remain secured in the buckle housing with very little force. The contact stated the vehicle had been repaired. The current and failure miles were 89,500.
The middle seat belt in 2nd seat, will neither retract nor pull out.it is completely stuck.the dealership will charge 263.00 to fix.we are unable to use that seat.
This problem concerns a 2004 chevrolet suburban. The seat heater switch, located above the driver's door armrest, turns itself on when the car is operating.the heated seat becomes extraordinarily hot rapidly and it is difficult to turn off - every bump and jar in the road turns the light and the seat back on. The light's location which indicates the operation of the heated seats is difficult to see as well - especially when the sun is strong & i'm wearing sunglasses.looking down and away from the road and traffic is fairly dangerous. This distraction could easily evolve into an accident as the driver is constantly trying to turn the heated seat off.i have had this item "repaired" once, yet the problem continues.the most memorable moment was trying to drive in a torrential rainstorm on the interstate.i pulled over for safety before i tried to turn off the light.the minute i pulled back onto the interstate, the heated seat turned itself back on and stayed on for the next 250 miles. I know i am not the only person with a 2004 suburban that suffers from this problem.we have taken the fuse out of the car that controls the heated seats, but that also affects the ability to readjust the seat position for the individual drivers. The heated seat distraction combined with the location of the switch are definitely a safety issue and should be repaired.
The slide assembly under the 2nd seat, does not work, so that passengers cannot easily climb into the back seat.
Rusted breake lines, parked in driveway could not use brakes after starting the car
The brake line under the driver's door ruptured and caused a complete brake failure.all the brake lines are severely rusted, compromised, and all must be replaced.fortunately the failure happened in parking lot and my son was able to get the car home without having an accident but that was merely fortuitous.there is absolutely no reason that permanent brake lines should fail.the truck is used very infrequently and is well maintained.had i or a member of my family been driving on the interstate someone most likely would have been severely injured or killed.i am 60 years old and have owned cars since i was 17 and i have never experienced a brake hard line rupture.with the non-corrosive metals available for brake tubing it is inexcusable from a safety perspective.the government needs to take action against gm to prevent clearly foreseeable injuries and deaths.
I took the vehicle to local chevrolet dealer for oil change and yearly state inspection. The vehicle passed the state inspection/emissions control test. I was not notified that there were any issues concerning the vehicle.the vehicle was driven 5 miles to home. Two days, started the car, but had no brakes. The brake pedal went to the floor. A warning light was on. There were puddles of brake fluid in the driveway. I had the vehicle towed back to the dealer. They informed me that te brakeline had completely corroded. The cost for repair was quoted at $800. From what i understand, this sudden and complete brake failure could have occurred at any time, even while driving the vehicle.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact stated that while driving approximately 25 mph and depressing the brakes, the pedal went straight to the floor board. The contact immediately put his emergency brakes on to avoid a crash. The vehicle was not inspected by a dealer or an independent mechanic. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure and current mileage was approximately 106,000. ..updated 03/18/13 the consumer stated the vehicle was inspected by a dealer before and after the incident. The vehicle was repaired. The consumer has pictures and old parts. Updated 04/02/2013
I turned on my engine with my kids in the car and put the suv in reverse. The car immediately started to move even with my front on the brake while putting it in reverse and i tried to press the brake and it went straight down to the floor. I put the car back in park and this stopped the vehicle. Had i been on the road i would have crashed. There was no warning about brake fluid being low and the car had been driven the night before at 8:30 pm. My husband looked near the driver side rear tire and saw the brake line dripping all the brake fluid out on the driveway all rusted. Why wasn't this made with stainless steel? this is a car for families which means more than likely it will have a child in the car when it is being driven. This needs to be recalled and fixed.
The master cylinder and brake line caused a complete brake failure. All the brake lines are severely rusted, compromised, and all must be replaced. Fortunately the failure happened in a restaurant drive through. Moments before pulling into the drive through, i was driving my daughter on a busy roadway with a 50 mph speed limit. I do not feel brake lines should be made of materials that can corrode and fail without any warning whatsoever. The truck is very well maintained. With non-corrosive metals available for brake tubing it is inexcusable from a safety perspective. The government needs to address this to prevent clearly foreseeable injuries and deaths.
Severe brake line corrosion under vehicle.
The brake line from the front to rear rusted and ruptured resulting in virtually no braking.upon further inspection the brake lines are all badly rusted and in need of replacement.very unfortunate gm chose to use such an inferior material for such an important component. Very dangerous situation gm should be making owners aware of.
The steel brake line failed on the drivers side below the door.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact was driving approximately 45 mph and depressed the brake pedal but the brakes would not respond. The contact applied excessive pressure to the brake pedal before the vehicle responded. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for diagnostic testing where the mechanic advised that the hydro boost would have to be replaced because brake fluid and power steering fluid was leaking from the vehicle. The contact referenced nhtsa campaign number: 05v043000 (service brakes, hydraulic) but was advised by the manufacturer that the vin was not included in the recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 138,000.
Brakes failed under hard stop (highway, in motion).intermediate steel brake line failed to rear brakes in a mode of rupture due to corrosion.all other steel lines were corroded and contacted gm.2 other silverado line vehicles owned also failed this year due to corrosion.gm response was that no recall existed.replaced all steel brake lines in vehicle with stainless aftermarket lines.after multiple contacts with gm customer service, i was told to save my receipts for repairs.this is an incorrect material specification, latent defect and gm needs to be held accountable.saved brake lines from this vehicle for any potential use.3 vehicles that i own with the same repair in 8 months.inexcusable!
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact stated that while driving 5 mph, the brake pedal was depressed and traveled to the floorboard as a result the brakes did not respond. The vehicle was taken to dealer where it was to be diagnosed. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure and current mileage was 91,000.
Brake lines rusted through and leaked fluid from system.
Driving down highway coming to red light depressed brake pedal, pedal went all the way to the floor. Could not stop vehicle before going through red light, held down vehicle horn to warn other drivers which saved me from injuring/killing someone else or myself. After getting vehicle on shoulder of road noticed brake fluid dripping down the frame rail on the drivers side in front of rear tire.
Brakes failed while driving....noticed slight brake pedal loss , then total failure within minutes...mechanic said that the brake lines failed because they were corroded and would all have to be replaced..thank you for looking into this and all other brake line failures of any gmc made vehicles.
On8/30/14 i was driving down the road going about 25 mphwhen a car came out from a street on the left side and pulled in front of me without looking, i presseddown on the brakes quick and swerved to the right to avoid hitting him, he had no idea as i was swerving out of the way to not hit him, he was making his turn, i got on the horn and he just pulled over to the right and gave me a wave as to say he was sorry. Anyway, when i pressed down on the brake fast, it went all the way to the floor, i had total brake failure, all the brake fluid leaked out from the driver's side near the chassis, there was no stopping this truck. I don't see how they can say you are still able to use the brakes, you can't pump them. It is now sitting at the mechanics getting fixed, so far he told me it would be $600-$800 labor, i have not gotten back the truck yet as i write this. The brake lines wereso rotted, it was only a matter of time, and i only bought this 9/17/13, the truck originally came from pennsylvania.
The brake fluid lines rusted at the area under the driver side wheel, causing the fluid to leak unexpectedly, thus rendering no brakes. The leak happened on my vehicle and another in this same area.the mechanic said there could be is a problem in the manufacturing of the lines due to the construction and because its too close to the wheelsalt and road conditions causes this area to rust more easily.he's had a number of chevy sub. With this same problem in for repair/replacement.
The brake lines on my 2004 suburban have now failed three times.the first time one of the lines had to be replaced at a cost of over $1000, the second time a separate line was patched, and now the third time the same second line that was patched has failed again.all of the brake lines are incredibly corroded, so much so that a friend of mine wondered if it had been submerged during hurricane katrina.but now upon reading up on the subject it appears that is is all gms of that time frame that live in saltier air.while gm appears to think that these are components that should wear down over time, this is only the second time in the 30 years that i have owned cars to find this problem.
I was driving down a two lane highway at 50 miles per hour a dog ran out in front of my suv, i hit the brakes hard and noticed the pedal went to the ground. Drove the car home carefully. When i got it in the garage found rusted through brake lines going to the rear of the car leaking. There is excessive rust on the lines and an electrical harness that goes to the gas tank has rubbed a hole in the line.
Abs light , brake light and parking brake light went on.also saying check brake system soon came on.went to dealer 10/15/2014 and was told need two computers for abs.about 1500.00 but can't do it because the brake lines are rusty and may break.if they were to break about a 4500.00 repair bill.was told ok to drive and the abs would just disable itself.brake lines used to be made of stainless steel. Has almost 119,000 miles.also was told maybe time for a new vehicle.i bought new and have had numerous repairs done and maint on it.
Steel brake lines: directly under drivers feet beneath vehicle is cluster of four brake lines held in place by a plastic bracket.these brake lines are hidden by a large corrugated black wiring harness. All four lines are extremely corroded at bracket and at least one of them failed completely and instantaneously. Unlike gm reports that it's a dual brake system and vehicle will retain braking capabilities in our case this is false . Word needs to go out about these vehicles but preferably a recall. My 15 year old newly issued permit holder was at the wheel and we were one left turn from descending a 200 foot tall 6% grade hill with a busy intersection and stop light at the bottom. Also living in minnesota knowing classic car owners with original steel brake lines with no issues i'm led to believe design is a contributing factor in these brake failure issues. Thank you for your time.
Complete failure of brakes while driving, coasted to stop with assistance of parking brake.upon inspection it was found that all brake lines are severely rusted to a failure point, the one line that failedwas for the rear brakes from the block device under the drivers side inner frame rail (abs unit or booster)for a very well kept family vehicle with low miles and no substantial rust anywhere else but the brake lines, and this one area that gets constant road spray directly at the lines and block/booster/abs on the inner frame drivers side. This was a shock to find, and now after looking online that nhtsa has the longest open case with chevy for 99-02 and seems like it will spread to 07something needs to be done for public safety.this suburban weighs like 6000 pounds, a tank, and willcrush anything in its way if the brakes do not work.i have had several other makes/models of cars & trucks and the only time i have ever needed to replace a brake line was on my old 1984 dodge ram pickup i plow snowwith all the time and it was 25yrs old at that time not 10yrs old like the chevy. We need immediate action to ensure the safety of all of the thousands with this same issue on chevy trucks/suv's. Purchased new in manchester ct for over $36,000 in april 2004..i do not have the $1000+ on hand to have this repair completed at this time with 2 children in college and 2 more soon to be.
My 16 year old daughter was behind the wheel; in line at drive-through.the brake pedal went to the floor and the brake light came on in the dash board as the vehicle began drifting forward. The message center in the dash displayed "service brake system."luckily she was able to maneuver into a parking space without incident.the brake lines have failed - rusted through.it is unconscionable to produce a vehicle that sells for over $45,000.00 that won't even last 10 years...especially when such a failure is likely to have catastophic consequences.we were very lucky that no one was seriously hurt due to this premature failure.
I was two blocks from home when i applied brakes as i approached a curve. Brake pedal went to the floor boards. Using low gear and parking brake i managed to get the suburban home with no incident.brake lines front to back were replaced by service center. Cause ,rust thru.
Complete brake failure without any warning. Another brake line completely corroded ad inoperable. Had same issue on another brake line 6-months earlier. No replacement parts available to connect to remaining lies. The vehicle had been running errands picking up and dropping off children when failure occurred.
2 separate incidents of brake failure with corroded brake lines of 2004 chevy suburban with under 100k miles.first was in january 2013, complete lose of brakes while driving in parking lot.taken to repair shop and needed complete replacement of corroded front brake lines, calipers etc.at the time, we had the rear brake lines inspected and repair shop stated they seamed ok.second incident happened on august 24, 2013.traveling on i-495 in massachusetts (while pulling a boat trailer) and applied brakes to slow for traffic ahead and brake pedal immediately went soft and almost completely to the floor and then brake warning light came on.i had to swerve into breakdown lane to avoid slowed traffic ahead as only front brakes were working.(along with trailer brakes) and car could not slow enough to stop.after nearly casing a major accident, was able to get off the exit and drive to nearest sears repair shop (1/4 mile down the road).after brake inspection, completely corroded back brake lines and calipers needed to be replaced.
Brake modulating system spontaneously caught on fire while parked in my driveway.once the fire was put out, the car would no longer start.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact stated that the brake lines fractured while the brakes were applied on the highway. The manufacturer was notified, but denied any assistance with repairs of the failure. The dealer was not notified. The vehicle was repaired. The failure mileage was 84,905 and the current mileage was 85,049. Updated 5/7/12 the consumer stated her husband discovered the front brake line had ruptured. There was a hole in the brake line in the engine compartment near the driver's side front wheel and the brake line was severely corroded. Updated 05/25/12
Failure of brake line and loss of fluid with no warning light until pedal went all the way to the floor. Mechanic has reported severe corrosion of the brake line, calipers, spare tire assembly and no access to the brake line area above the spare tire without cutting the spare tire holder assembly out. Estimate is over $1000 to repair. Brake failure without a warning - very scary.
Backing up snowmobile trailer when brake pedal went to floor.large puddle underneath truck right below where the 4 brake lines exit the abs and go over the frame rail.
I was traveling north on rt.1 in delaware i seen a car rolled over on its side and off the road i applied my brakes hard to stop and help that is when my brakes failed. After checking on the driver i limped my truck to the nearest gas station and discovers my brake line had rotted out under my truck by the front wheel. The clips that secure the brake line to the frame seem to be the problem.
Driving on small residential street.as i approached a stop sign i applied brakes and pedal went to the floor and i steered into the curb to stop vehicle. When i stopped shaking i called my husband and he came with afriend who is a mechanic.when they raised the hood they saw brake fluid everywhere.when we got the car home and inspected it further the mechanic was horrified to see that everything under there was corroded and rusted. Including bushings gas lines, nuts and bolts etc.he claimed he had never seen anything like it in his life. This is the third suburban i have owned and i am very upset that this would happen.i was all set to have my 20 yr old son take this up to school so he could move out of his dorm.he could have been seriously hurt if this had happened on the new jersey turnpike.
My 2004 suburban is extremely well cared for.the vehicle has only 51,000 miles and is kept in perfect running and physical condition.on 10/8/2011 i was performing an extensive visual check of the brake line on the vehicle after reading of some issues with similar vehicle.upon inspection, i saw that the braking systems hydraulic lines are severely corroded in multiple areas.these lines must be replaced to avoid catastrophic failure.on a vehicle of this age and limited mileage this is highly worrisome.i have multiple other vehicles of considerably greater mileage and of older vintage that have not had this corrosion issue.i mention them because they have spent their entire service life, to date, in the same weather/driving conditions.there is no question that the materials used for these brake lines are of an inferior material.a recall is absolutely in order as this is an expensive and time consuming repair that is the result of poor quality parts.
My wife owns two gm suburbans, 2002 and 2004. Both experienced brake failure due to rotting brake lines within a week of each other. I have paid over $2,000.00 to have them both repaired. The 2002 failure sent me out into the street in front of my home unable to stop. The second failure of the 2004 occurred while on a cross country trip with most of my family in the car. This is the one that spurs my efforts to complain. I could lose it when considering what could have happened to my family due to these failures on two very expensive cars which i would never have expected to fail like this. I would like very much not to have this happen to anyone else and if i can get a refund for the costly repair that would be great. I have preserved the rotted brake lines. Please let me know if you need any further information.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. While driving approximately 35 mph the contact depressed the brake pedal and the it fell to the floor board. The vehicle was towed to the dealer. The technicians stated the brake line failed due to an environmental climate damage. The brake line was replaced with stainless steel brake lines. The vehicle was repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 71,920.updated 08/05/11*lj updated 3/02/2012 *ln
The top nut which holds the right rear brake caliber bracket came out on my vehicle. The result caused my vehicle to abruptly stop severely jerking the passengers in the truck. The bracket also punctured several cracks to the inside of my rim causing my tire to deflate. I have never had the caliper nuts removed on my vehicle. The only thing i can think of is the nut must have vibrated loose.the lower nut was loose as well.the loose lower nut was discovered after removing the wheel to repair the deflated tire.the incident occurred on sunday, october 19, 2008 at 1:30 am.my vehicle was towed home for repair.a new rim and brake caliper nut had to be purchased to repair my vehicle.
Steel brake lines on vehicle are severely corroded with obvious section loss.based upon my experience with a similar vehicle, a line failure due to rupture is imminent and all lines need to be replaced.this will be neither an easy nor an inexpensive task.adding insult to injury is that gm does not offer replacement line sets; it's roll your own or buy an (incomplete) aftermarket set (no one offers complete set for jl4 rear brake arrangement).this really is ridiculous given the cost, age, mileage and otherwise excellent condition of the vehicle.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact was driving approximately 45 mph and depressed the brake pedal but the brakes would not respond. The contact applied excessive pressure to the brake pedal before the vehicle responded. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for diagnostic testing where the mechanic advised that the hydro boost would have to be replaced because brake fluid and power steering fluid was leaking from the vehicle. The contact referenced nhtsa campaign number: 05v043000 (service brakes, hydraulic) but was advised by the manufacturer that the vin was not included in the recall. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 138,000.
Slowing down coming to stop about 7to 4 mph the abs sensors tells the abs pump to turn on making a growling noise this is the same problem the older models had there fix was to bring them in to a dealer and pull and clean the abs sensors or replace if found bad . I took mine in for an abs sensor light on and they told me that the right sensor was bad but the left needed to be pulled and cleaned but they said if the went to pull it and it broke i would have to pay the cost of the replacement sensor instead of the cleaning cost which is about $250.00 to replace part and labor this was in dec 2009.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact stated that the brake lines fractured while the brakes were applied on the highway. The manufacturer was notified, but denied any assistance with repairs of the failure. The dealer was not notified. The vehicle was repaired. The failure mileage was 84,905 and the current mileage was 85,049. Updated 5/7/12 the consumer stated her husband discovered the front brake line had ruptured. There was a hole in the brake line in the engine compartment near the driver's side front wheel and the brake line was severely corroded. Updated 05/25/12
It makes a clunking noise when turning the steering wheel.
We own a 2004 chevrolet suburban with approximately 50,000 current miles. We purchased the vehicle used at 20,000 miles. At some point after 36000 we started noticing a "clunking" in the steering column when we would turn the wheel. I an employed at a school and it has had to have this same problem repaired on 3 of it's 2004 chevrolet 1500 suburbans, each with just over the 36,000 warranty mileage. Each cost about $370.00 to repair.
Clunking noise in the steering column, dealer said it was the intermediate steering shaft, called chevrolet (they gave me a case #)since internet search exposed many others same problem. They have a tsb #000235003about this and how to fix the problem. Chevrolet wants me to pay a $99 diagnosis fee and they might help me with the problem.
Bought this vehicle a few days before the first incident. I drove it home from over two hours away, drove it all around the day before, no problems. Then i was driving down a bypass at about 60 miles an hour and the engine shut off! i had no power steering, nothing! i was able to pull over, shut it off and once i turned it back over it was just fine. So i cautiously started driving, it happened again a few miles down the road only this time it stalled then regained power and quickly shut off again. Once engine was turned off and restarted, it was fine, it did this to me 5 times within 5 miles. I almost got hit two of those times by other vehicles, once when i was turning onto a road. I am glad my kids were not in it. I am scared to drive on two lane roads without room to pull over.
I have a 2004 chevy suburban that has a bad vibration and clunking noise coming from the steering wheel.i have addressed this issue with the dealership and they state their is no recall, but i know of 4 people with chevy trucks with the same issue.i have also done some research online and found multiple people complaining of the same issue.i am not sure if left unfixed what might happen, but i really do not want to get in an accident and hurt myself or others.i only hope with your help we can find a solution to this problem with chevrolet vehicles.thank you.
Bad knocking noise when turn steering wheel very scary no matter who or which direction you turn steering wheel there it is this horrible noise come on chevy this is a family car it should be safe is scary chevy don't be a ble to do something because is already at 75,000 and i have this problem since it was 23k miles what's going on with you chevy people.
Knocking noise while driving at slow speed seems to be coming from the steering system. My brother had a 2004 chevy also and it happened to his vehicle also. This has been going on for over a year. Because the vehicle is not under the 36 k warranty the dealer will not repair this. I am sure this is occurring in other 2004 chevy suburbans.
I was turning into driveway when i heard a pop than some grinding so i listened and it was coming from front tire. I jacked it up the wheel was loose and when u freely turned the wheel u heard grinding from the bearings being no good. I think the wheel hub assembly is out i was looking for a replacement part when i noticed there was a recall from 2007nfor them the campaign number is 07e106000 i would like to know is this true [xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
Under warranty, brought car in for loose, vibrating steering wheel in 2004. Dealership did something to make it quite but 3 months later it was doing it again. Took it in again and they said to get the car greased. It only lasts a little while. So has to be repeatedly done. I'm afraid something is going to break.
Transmission slippage; driver side mirror defects; head lamps & loose steering column.biggest issue is transmission.while driving on highway at 70 mph, transmission began slipping without any prior warning.situation was extremely dangerous as it was night-time driving with little or no opportunity to get vehicle off the interstate.other family vehicles have had the same issue with the transmission going out without warning.also, the driver side mirror goes out gradually, as the liquid that defrosts the mirror goes bad and leaks into the mirror.this mirror has already been replaced once, at the cost of $400+.this mirror is also a hazard as the driver is unable to use the mirror to adequate lane and traffic maneuvering.the steering column always seems to be loose.nothing has been done, as of today's date, to correct the transmission issue as it is a costly repair.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500.the intermediate steering shaft began making noise when the wheel was turned left or right.the dealer stated that the steering shaft needed to be replaced and they made the replacement.the current mileage was 36,966 and failure mileage was 36,000. Updated 02-12-08 updated 02/12/08
The steering column u joint that connects to the steering box has loosened causing a clunking in the steering wheel. The u-joint has not failed as of this time, but a failure or binding could easily result in the loss of control of the vehicle. The dealerships are aware that there is a common problem with this part and offer a "grease kit" to remedy the problem. However, grease will not take the play out of a loose u-joint. This is a cover-up remedy to make the looseness less obvious. The dealership wants over $300 for a replacement part alone and claims it is a restricted part since it is part of the energy absorbing system in the event of a collision. The looseness was first noticeable with only 13000 miles on the vehicle. The problem has continued to worsen since first noticed.
Electrical components are not working.odometer, fuel gauge, oil gauge, battery gauge, temperature gauge do not work - the only gauge that does work is the speedometer.looking at all the complaints, i should assume the speedometer will be going out.the temperature gauge could be very dangerous - it reads 250 - 260 all the time.you do not know if your are running hot or not.the gas gauge needle is totally upset down - we have to go off our "how many miles 'til we run out go gas" screen to determine how much gas we have.i've replaced the power steering pump - $775, the chip for the gas pedal (when out - you could not go any faster than 10 miles per hour $800), the driver side leather seat started to wear down @ 40,000 miles - now has a tear in it, the steering column makes a knocking noise, the dash makes a popping noise when the air conditioner is on, front seem to wear down fast, etc.i could go on, but..........it seems i got a lemon.this was a $47,000 sticker priced car - you would think you wouldn't have this many problems.there seems to be a lot of complaints on instrument panel problems - seems chev should look into this - dangerous.these are family - childrenvehicles!!!
Electrical components are not working.odometer, fuel gauge, oil gauge, battery gauge, temperature gauge do not work - the only gauge that does work is the speedometer.looking at all the complaints, i should assume the speedometer will be going out.the temperature gauge could be very dangerous - it reads 250 - 260 all the time.you do not know if your are running hot or not.the gas gauge needle is totally upset down - we have to go off our "how many miles 'til we run out go gas" screen to determine how much gas we have.i've replaced the power steering pump - $775, the chip for the gas pedal (when out - you could not go any faster than 10 miles per hour $800), the driver side leather seat started to wear down @ 40,000 miles - now has a tear in it, the steering column makes a knocking noise, the dash makes a popping noise when the air conditioner is on, front seem to wear down fast, etc.i could go on, but..........it seems i got a lemon.this was a $47,000 sticker priced car - you would think you wouldn't have this many problems.there seems to be a lot of complaints on instrument panel problems - seems chev should look into this - dangerous.these are family - childrenvehicles!!!
Back glass of the 2004 chevy suburban disengage from the vehicle. This is very dangerous it could come off while driving and strike another vehicle or worse it could fall on somebody causing serious injuries.
We own a 2004 chevrolet suburban with approximately 50,000 current miles. We purchased the vehicle used at 20,000 miles. At some point after 36000 we started noticing a "clunking" in the steering column when we would turn the wheel. I an employed at a school and it has had to have this same problem repaired on 3 of it's 2004 chevrolet 1500 suburbans, each with just over the 36,000 warranty mileage. Each cost about $370.00 to repair.
While driving at approximately 65 mph on an interstate, the sun roof on my 2004 chevrolet suburban ripped off narrowly missing the car following us.the sun roof was closed at timeof the incident.other than what sounded like an air leak, there was no warning or other indication of problems.the sun roof has rarely been opened since the car was purchased and definitely had not been opened in the past 2 years at least.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact stated that the rear hatch would not open. The dealer stated that the actuator needed to be replaced. The contact notified the manufacturer. The vehicle was not repaired. The approximate failure mileage was 200,000. Updated 04/20/16*lj
I own a 2004 chevrolet suburban.the right hinge for the liftgate window has cracked and there is a possibility that when driving, the window could fall off if wind gets within the window and the hinges.gm is ignoring any complaints on this even though they are all over the internet.
2004 chevy suburban 1500 front wheel bearings in need of replacement every 35,000 miles is safety issue all suburban owners need to be informed about.
A tire blew out.spare tire hoist was inoperable.had to cut spare tire hoist off with a reciprocating saw.on the side of the road for 4 hours.have heard of many with same problem.poor design in a highly corrosive environment.
We had to change a rear driver side tire because we needed to add air to the tire and the sensor control was broken.we took the tire off and replaced it with the spare.when retrieving the spare we had a very difficulttime getting it off the spare tire holder winch.after struggling with the spare tire for 30 minutes we got it released and when we tried to hoist the winch back up,it would not go up.we tried repeatedly for another 30 minutes without any success.we had to remove the entire tire winch holder part so it wouldn't hang down while driving.i have been calling all morning to try to find the part anddraper chevrolet said they have had a lot of problems with this part but mainly when customers are trying to retrieve the tire.my incident is differentsince it wouldn't go back up.draper chevrolet did not have this part in stock and i have been calling salvage shops as well without any success.i am currently driving without a spare and i drive 60 miles a day on the highway and this is unsafe to be driving without a spare tire because the other tires sensor stem broke on its own. When calling draper chevrolet they said the part cost $170.42 new but they do not have the part in stock.i work 8:30 a.m. To 6:00 p.m. Monday thru friday and can only take care of this on the weekend.which this weekend is christmas day.i hope you understand my predicament and can help me in some way to rectify this problem. I come from a general motors family and have always been able to count on general motors doing the right thing.thank you for your consideration.
I was driving my vehicle and had a flat tire. I could not get my spare tire to come down as it was seized under th back of the vehicle. I had a repair shop fix it and they advised me this is common on all general motor vehicles that salt get inside them and rusts out the spare tire hoist unit making it impossible to get the tire down. I am concerned as it could have happened to my wife and kids on a cold night. After looking online this is a major problem that most people do not realize until they get stranded with a flat tire.
Valve stem of tire pressure sensor broke causing the left, rear tire to go flat.it broke while i was attempting to remove the valve stem cap so that i could check my tire presure.if the failure would have occured while the vehicle was in motion, it may have led to an accident.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. The contact stated that the spare tire housing unit was defective which made it impossible to remove the spare tire when he needed it. The dealer advised her to notify the manufacturer who stated that they would reimburse her for the repairs. The vehicle was repaired; however, the spare tire housing malfunction has reoccurred. The manufacterer stated that they would not reimburse her to have the housing unit repaired again. The failure mileage was 120,000.
Electrical components are not working.odometer, fuel gauge, oil gauge, battery gauge, temperature gauge do not work - the only gauge that does work is the speedometer.looking at all the complaints, i should assume the speedometer will be going out.the temperature gauge could be very dangerous - it reads 250 - 260 all the time.you do not know if your are running hot or not.the gas gauge needle is totally upset down - we have to go off our "how many miles 'til we run out go gas" screen to determine how much gas we have.i've replaced the power steering pump - $775, the chip for the gas pedal (when out - you could not go any faster than 10 miles per hour $800), the driver side leather seat started to wear down @ 40,000 miles - now has a tear in it, the steering column makes a knocking noise, the dash makes a popping noise when the air conditioner is on, front seem to wear down fast, etc.i could go on, but..........it seems i got a lemon.this was a $47,000 sticker priced car - you would think you wouldn't have this many problems.there seems to be a lot of complaints on instrument panel problems - seems chev should look into this - dangerous.these are family - childrenvehicles!!!
Valve stem of tire pressure sensor broke causing the left, rear tire to go flat.it broke while i was attempting to remove the valve stem cap so that i could check my tire presure.if the failure would have occured while the vehicle was in motion, it may have led to an accident.
Brake modulating system spontaneously caught on fire while parked in my driveway.once the fire was put out, the car would no longer start.
Multiple complaints.- tachometer does not work correctly - does not work some of the times; will stick in different places, etc; date of failure: feb 2008- steering column has audible/physical thumbing/banging when turning left or right - date of failure: 02/01/2008 (32,000 miles);- a/c sometimes goes to blowing heat - when turned off and on it will switch to a/c - not always - sometimes turning auto off and then on will fix problem - date of failure first noticed 06/01/2006;- driver side seat heater - when i turn it on i smell electrical wires burning - date of failure - 03/06/08;- a/c - there is a high pitched noise (like vacuum) coming from the right rear of the vehicle when a/c is on and the auto is at idle - does not do it always - this noise is very audible inside and outside of vehicle - date of failure: 09/26/2005;
The contact owned a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500. While driving 15 mph, the vehicle accelerated independently and the contact lost control of the vehicle. The contact stated that the vehicle left the roadway, ran into a ditch, went airborne and flipped onto the passenger side. The contact stated that the vehicle was previously repaired under technical service bulletins: pit3598 (seat) for adjustment to the brake and accelerator pedals. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic. A police report was not filed. The contact sustained injuries that did not require medical attention. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The vehicle was destroyed. The approximate failure mileage was 129,000.
2004 chevrolet suburban goes into reduced power engine w/o reason change the engine, because high miles, change transmission, change throttle body,change gas pedal module, change catalytic converter spend over 4,000 on the truck without counting the accident can occur in the interstate 78 west because of the lost of power, dealers don't know what is the problem neither the local mechanics can you please take action in this matter and read at edmonds.com and see all the complains about the same problem
Bought this vehicle a few days before the first incident. I drove it home from over two hours away, drove it all around the day before, no problems. Then i was driving down a bypass at about 60 miles an hour and the engine shut off! i had no power steering, nothing! i was able to pull over, shut it off and once i turned it back over it was just fine. So i cautiously started driving, it happened again a few miles down the road only this time it stalled then regained power and quickly shut off again. Once engine was turned off and restarted, it was fine, it did this to me 5 times within 5 miles. I almost got hit two of those times by other vehicles, once when i was turning onto a road. I am glad my kids were not in it. I am scared to drive on two lane roads without room to pull over.
The gm instrument cluster stepper motors and lights have failed. This results in a safety hazard because it is important to know the speed of the vehicle and the fuel level as well as other important engine information.
At random you will just be driving down the road and a message comes on that says reduce engine power and the t/c light comes on along with the check engine light. This has happened several times, is very unsafe, and is getting worse. We have had work done to try and fix the problem but its still happening. We don't have tons of money to fix this, live in the country, and have 5 kids. This is our only transportation and we have a rather large loan on the thing and its turning into yard art.
Traffic citation issued to my husband while driving my 2004 chevrolet suburban due to faulty speedometer on 6/29/07.
The speedometer is completely gone along with several gauges such as the oil, gas, and rpm meters. I am unable to tell how much gas i have or how fast i am going. This has happened a lot to these vehicles over the past 10 years. Gm offered a repair but only for vehicles who were not over a certain mileage. This is a safety issue and needs to be repaired in all vehicles. Additional, the electrical system is out of whack. My heated seats turn all the way up to high without me pressing anything. My tv system is not working. Everything seems to be falling apart.
The speedometer on my 2004 suburbanfailed.
Speed reads 120mph and not moving .
Vehicle gas gauge and odometer gauges clusters are not working this puts us in danger i did not know how much gas i need and how fast i was going this should be fixed by the manufacturer because it was a cluster defect
Electrical components are not working.odometer, fuel gauge, oil gauge, battery gauge, temperature gauge do not work - the only gauge that does work is the speedometer.looking at all the complaints, i should assume the speedometer will be going out.the temperature gauge could be very dangerous - it reads 250 - 260 all the time.you do not know if your are running hot or not.the gas gauge needle is totally upset down - we have to go off our "how many miles 'til we run out go gas" screen to determine how much gas we have.i've replaced the power steering pump - $775, the chip for the gas pedal (when out - you could not go any faster than 10 miles per hour $800), the driver side leather seat started to wear down @ 40,000 miles - now has a tear in it, the steering column makes a knocking noise, the dash makes a popping noise when the air conditioner is on, front seem to wear down fast, etc.i could go on, but..........it seems i got a lemon.this was a $47,000 sticker priced car - you would think you wouldn't have this many problems.there seems to be a lot of complaints on instrument panel problems - seems chev should look into this - dangerous.these are family - childrenvehicles!!!
Transmission slippage; driver side mirror defects; head lamps & loose steering column.biggest issue is transmission.while driving on highway at 70 mph, transmission began slipping without any prior warning.situation was extremely dangerous as it was night-time driving with little or no opportunity to get vehicle off the interstate.other family vehicles have had the same issue with the transmission going out without warning.also, the driver side mirror goes out gradually, as the liquid that defrosts the mirror goes bad and leaks into the mirror.this mirror has already been replaced once, at the cost of $400+.this mirror is also a hazard as the driver is unable to use the mirror to adequate lane and traffic maneuvering.the steering column always seems to be loose.nothing has been done, as of today's date, to correct the transmission issue as it is a costly repair.
Back glass of the 2004 chevy suburban disengage from the vehicle. This is very dangerous it could come off while driving and strike another vehicle or worse it could fall on somebody causing serious injuries.
2004 chevrolet suburban air conditioning intermittently blows hot air only on the driver's side using the dual zone ac control.gm has no idea how to fix this issue. While researching found thousands of chevy owner all with the same complaint and with no real fix.there seems to be some connection between the battery/loss of power and the climate control module being defective.
While driving down the road, the rear window fell off of the vehicle. Upon inspection, i noticed thehinges holding the window to the vehicle had broken. The rear window is hardly ever opened, so it cannot be due to overuse. If i had been driving on the highway it may have killed someone. Instead i only have to replace my entire rear window. After researching this online, i found that this has happened to a lot of people, but that the maker of the vehicle denies that it is happening.
The contact owns a 2004 chevrolet suburban 1500.the contact heard a noise coming from the vehicle.upon further inspection, she noticed that the rear passenger side window was cracking in a spider web pattern.she stated that the tint on the glass was webbing in a pattern.she then noticed that the glass was expanding as if something was in the vehicle and pushing the glass outward.the failure caused the glass to shatter.the contact called the dealer and they stated that they were unaware of any failure occurring on this year, make, and model vehicle.the contact is in the process of taking the vehicle to the glass shop for repair at the cost of $190.she is in the process of notifying the manufacturer.the contact was unsure if the failure was caused by the heat outside.the failure mileage was 89,000 and current mileage was 89,015.
I have a 2004 suburban with 60k miles. About 1 months ago, the rear window began making a whistling noise while driving. When i inspected it i found that the hinge was separating from the window. I have tried to go through gm with no avail. Their answer is "it shouldn't have happened", but they are not going to do anything about it.
The outside temp reader located in the rearview mirror has read 140 degrees for almost 2 years.repairs were attempted, but unsuccessful.i feel it is a safety issue during the winter... I travel with my 2 children over many dangerous mountain passes and the "ice" reading would be nice.
While driving at approximately 65 mph on an interstate, the sun roof on my 2004 chevrolet suburban ripped off narrowly missing the car following us.the sun roof was closed at timeof the incident.other than what sounded like an air leak, there was no warning or other indication of problems.the sun roof has rarely been opened since the car was purchased and definitely had not been opened in the past 2 years at least.
I was turning into driveway when i heard a pop than some grinding so i listened and it was coming from front tire. I jacked it up the wheel was loose and when u freely turned the wheel u heard grinding from the bearings being no good. I think the wheel hub assembly is out i was looking for a replacement part when i noticed there was a recall from 2007nfor them the campaign number is 07e106000 i would like to know is this true [xxx]information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
The top nut which holds the right rear brake caliber bracket came out on my vehicle. The result caused my vehicle to abruptly stop severely jerking the passengers in the truck. The bracket also punctured several cracks to the inside of my rim causing my tire to deflate. I have never had the caliper nuts removed on my vehicle. The only thing i can think of is the nut must have vibrated loose.the lower nut was loose as well.the loose lower nut was discovered after removing the wheel to repair the deflated tire.the incident occurred on sunday, october 19, 2008 at 1:30 am.my vehicle was towed home for repair.a new rim and brake caliper nut had to be purchased to repair my vehicle.
We were driving back from the airport, 60 miles from our home.before we left the airport area we heard a noise.as we are headed home approximately 20 miles down the road the stability notification and the abs lights come on.first time they had come on. Every now and then we hear a noise coming from the front left wheel.the notification and lights cut off and on all the way to our destination.approximately 6 miles from our home, we hear a noise as if something came off but yet the suburban was driving okay for the exception of noise and grinding.we decided to keep driving as we are in a horrific construction zone.the next day i call for an appt for inspection at a private wheel and brake shop for an estimate.they said i had extensive damage to the wheel hub assemblies and the front wheel tire was just about to fall off.they said they were even apprehensive about making it from the outside of the building, inside.i call the dealership.they said it there was not a recall on the hub assemblies and it would cost app $560 to $600 per wheel for repair.i could not afford this so i took it to repair at the wheel shop.my vehicle had approximately at the time 54,000 miles. I do have the old parts for inspection.
2004 chevy suburban 1500 front wheel bearings in need of replacement every 35,000 miles is safety issue all suburban owners need to be informed about.
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