We found the following complaints for CHEVROLET CAPTIVA (2014)
Read complaints for CHEVROLET CAPTIVA (2014)
Head-on collision.over $13,000 in property damage.car deemed a total loss.air bags failed to deploy.driver injured.filed personal injury claim against at-fault driver.incurred $39,087.48 in medical bills over 7 month treatment period.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. When the vehicle was started, the service air bag warning light illuminated. The failure recurred several times. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 49,000.
The contact owned a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving 25 mph, another vehicle ran through a stop sign. The contact crashed into the side of the vehicle. The air bags did not deploy. A police report was filed. The driver sustained soft tissue bruising, which required medical attention. The local dealer was not notified of the failure. The vehicle was destroyed. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was approximately 141,000. The consumer stated after 6 weeks of physical therapy and worsening pain, the doctor advised surgery was necessary for a neck injury due to the airbags not deploying. The manufacturer stated the vehicle operated as designed.
Air bags did not deploy. In motion. Turning. City street. The whole front and front bumper destroyed.
We were involved in a domino effect accident, where my car was totaled. It suffered severe front and rear damage, with the rear window shattered as we were struck from behind while stopped in traffic on an interstate. None of the airbags deployed.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving approximately 45 mph, the brake pedal was depressed, but failed to engage. As a result, the vehicle struck a sign post and crashed into an oats farm field. The air bags did not deploy. There were no warning indicators illuminated. A police report was not filed. The driver sustained a few injuries, but did not require medical attention. The vehicle was damaged, but was drivable. The contact called john l. Sullivan chevrolet at 916-782-1243 (350 autumn dr, roseville, ca 95661) and the call was disconnected. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated that an investigator would inspect the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 56,000.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key was stuck in the ignition. The ignition system would not release the key or recognize that the vehicle was in the park position. Libertyville chevrolet (1001 s milwaukee ave, libertyville, il 60048, (847) 932-3170) and the manufacturer both stated that the vehicle was not included in a recall. The dealer quoted that the repairs would cost $600 minimum. The contact researched the repairs as costing anywhere from $600 to $1,100. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was 60,000.
Frequently car will not start even with good battery and cable connections. While driving car will lose power. The 3 gauges(rpm, speedometer, and gas) all stop and working. The car will still run but at a much less power. Sometimes they start working but rpms will run very high and speed is greatly decreased. Message comes across to service stabilitrak and traction control. Warning lights come on such as abs, tcs warning,stabilitrak indicator, and parking brake warning. Doors lock and unlock repeatedly. At times have been able to reset by unhooking battery cable and reconnecting and waiting. No pattern as to when and why it happens. Major safety concern. Have even replaced under-hood fuse box. Oh and key gets stuck in ignition. While i will put a date, know that this is happened multiple times over the last year. Usually two times a week sometimes more
I am not always able to remove the key from the ignition when the vehicle is in park.the problem began at about 36.000 miles. There is no consistency or pattern of behavior for this problem. I can go for days without a problem then it will happen about every other time i drive the car. Up to this point i have been able to restart the car, put it in reverse, pull forward and jam the transmission into park.2 to 4 tries later i can remove the key.on my first complain at the dealer, i was told that i was not pushing the key in before attempting to remove it.i did some research and complained a 2nd time.now the dealer is paying attention. I notice most of the complaints for this model are for the same issues as i am describing here.gm has paid for the repair of this problem for other modals.thus far, i see no such response for the captiva!
Key gets stuck in the ignition. It's not reading that it's in park. From what i've been reading online, it's a common problem with this model. Wiring has a short somewhere. I've had to change my break lights 3 times and had to change my head lights 7 times since the 2 years i've had it. With as being a newer vehicle, i shouldn't have this many problems.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva.the contact stated that the key would be stuck in the 'acc' position. The vehicle was taken to the dealer (lou bachrodt chevrolet buick gmc 7070 cherryvale n blvd, rockford, il 61112) where it was diagnosed that failure was due to a failed shifter module.the vehicle was repaired.the manufacturer was notified and case number: 8-4010022838 was opened.the failure mileage was 70,860.
Driving home thurs night, 1-12-2017, i smelled a burning scent. Figured it was outside in the air coming thru the vents. No warning lights were on.fri. Morning, 1-13-2017, driving to work i smelled the same odor & it got stronger the longer i was in the car. But again no warning lights came on. I pulled the sun visor down as i drove, pushed it over against the drivers side window and extended it to cover the length of the glass as it is intended to do. While turning left off of a 6 lane road onto a parkway the visor moved to touch the side of my head. I reached up to push it back and my left hand fingers touched the bar that holds the visor and it painfully burned my fingers as i pushed it back to the window!!! still no warning lights. To be sure it was that hot and not wanting to touch it again, i held a plastic cut up to the bar and smoke appeared and it melted the rim of the cup.i was petrified as i was in the middle of traffic on a 6 lane parkway & afraid a flash fire was about to happen near my face and head . Got to work & as i am a nurse immediately treated the wounds/burns with silvadene and a dressing. Asked one of my surgeons what to do and he said take the car immediately to a chev dealer as it may catch fire!!!!!!!!!!! took it in, they saw my hand bandaged up , checked the car in and inspected it and found a short in the wire from the map lights to the visor!!they replaced the wiring and the visor.we looked for all recalls and found nothing on this problem.i asked if they had seen this before and they said no, so i thought it best to contact your agency in case it happens to someone with kids, or disabled people etc in the car that had to be helped to get out quickly!! luckily it was just me in the car. I got the car back yesterday, wed. 1-18-2017 and all appears to be well. Please alert the correct people to this hazard.
Key sticks in the ignition lock--unable to remove key.key sticks on accessory setting potentially causing battery drain.vehicle is stationary and in park.it happens periodically.there are many complaints on-line regarding this issue so this is not an isolated problem.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. On several occasions, the key seized in the ignition and was unable to be removed. The vehicle was taken to rotolo chevrolet (16666 s highland ave, fontana, ca 92336, (909) 822-1111), but the mechanic was unable to remove the key. The contact was also informed that there was an error in communication between the ignition and the gear shift lever's position. After a while of maneuvering the gear shifter from park to drive and then back to park, the contact was able to remove the key from the ignition. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 40,000.
On july 9, 2015 at approximately 4pm i noticed what appeared to be (cold) frost blowing from the inside vents of my vehicle, and as i looked at the temp. Gauge i noticed it was going up in the 200s so i immediately turned on my heat too reduced the temp., because i thought th vehicle was over heating. But after awhile i notied the temp was not going down so i switched ti the ac, and immediately the temp. Began to go down back to normal, which is 181 on average. I'm not sure what this means, as i did have coolant in the overflow tank. I took the vehicle in for an oil change and mentioned this issue to the service person and they stated something about the ac compressor, which i did not understand. So i've been running my ac whenever the temp gauge goes up. To this day i still don't know why this is happening.
In january 2020 i took the car into the shop after hearing noise from the engine. I had to have the timing chain replaced, but as they looked it over they said the engine needed replaced, due to oil leaking. A couple weeks before it was very cold close to 4 degrees and while i was driving into work at 6am i heard a loud sound while at a red light, it sounded like a gun shot. I assumed it was coming from a nearby neighborhood. But to find out my mechanic said that was the engine frozen and popped. He said when its cold that happens to this engine. Unreal!two weeks ago, my car started to smell like it was burning and gas. So i took it in and they replaced the cat converter,exhaust manifold, and leaking seal.last week, i went to unlock the doors with the remote the rear wiper fluid motor started and ran continuously, to the point it doesn't work at all now. Now this week my trunk will not open, both front head lights burnt out, my traction control keeps turning on/off, my speakers are popping, radio is cutting in/out.i bought this car from the dealer in 2014 with 12k miles on it, always serviced the vehicle, changed the oil regularly, inspected yearly, preventive maintenance every 6 months. Now have 83k miles and i need this car to last me two more years.
The key gets stuck in the ignition and will not turn back past acc. This requires the operator to turn the vehicle on and off countless times, leave the keys in the ignition, leave the car running etc, because the key will not come out. Engaging the shifter and turning the steering wheel do not send a 'signal' to let the key release.
The ignition switch on my 2014 chevy captiva gets stuck and it does not allow the key to be removed when turning it off when stationary. Upon personal research it was discovered that this model has had this issue with countless drivers (typically at 40k-50k miles) and is not addressed by gm as a recall or safety issue. However, when the switch is unable to be removed it is a sensory issue, the vehicle key is also able to come out while on drive. A simple search 'chevy captiva key stuck' will result in many such incidents.
Key gets stuck in ignition and takes many tries to get it out, even from day one of buying it. Was informed that was a "safety" feature provided by chevy themselves. When shutting off the vehicle, everything dies out like the battery went completely dead and car won't start again. Have to play with battery wires and fuse box before i hear the car make any noise again. Was informed by more than one mechanic that there are gm recalls for the thermal cable, battery protective cable, and starter motors, but nothing for my vin has popped up. Have found almost 100 other complaints on multiple sites and more than a dozen reported accidents due to this issue. Car sits at almost 98,000 miles now and it will not turn over for me. Recalls should be put out for the entirety of this model because i have met 2 other people who have had the exact same problem and were informed that the dealerships have refused to acknowledge prior recall or safety information.
After driving the vehicle and stopping, i put the gear shifter in park and the key will not go back to the lock position and release from the ignition.i went to the chevrolet dealer and they replaced the solenoid and the gear shifter which fixed the problem.the said they were not getting a signal from the gear shifter to the solenoid which was keeping the key from being released.i also found a gm recall article for the same problem on other vehicle models which i am including.
I bought the car used and within the first 7 days when i was leaving for work, the car wouldn't start. The lights flickered 1 time and then went off. I turned the key back thinking i had a bad crank and then tried to start it up again, there was no lights or anything. Tried to take the key out the ignition, the key would not come out. After playing with the car, trying to jump it, i lost home and was reaching to take my badge out from between the seats. When i was pushing the seats backwards, the lights came back in and the car started. 2 days later when i got home from grocery shopping, i hit the clicker to unlock the trunk, it wouldn't open, tried to unlock it from the door, wouldn't open. Put the key in the ignition, car wouldn't turn on and the key wouldn't come out the ignition.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key fob failed to unlock the doors and had the doors had to be manually locked and unlocked. The key fob was stuck in the ignition. While driving 65 mph, the instrument cluster flashed and the vehicle stalled and restarted. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer (jack schmitt chevrolet, 127 regency park, ofallon, il 62269), but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the issue and opened case number: 8-3424683927. The contact was advised to take the vehicle to the dealer. The failure mileage was 62,200.
Key will not come out of the ignition after turning vehicle off and no power related equipment will come on. This happens intermittently and seemingly randomly. Shift won''t move when this happens and turning key back into start position does nothing. Doors won't lock with key fob and no dash lights come on, or anything. Sometimes pushing wires into negative battery terminal will correct it and sometimes not. Key release lever on steering column does not release the key when this happens, nor does turning the steering wheel to unlock it. This is an annoying issue as there doesn't seem to be any reliable fix for this, or any recall, or knowledge on the part of the dealership as to how to remedy this. This issue makes this vehicle very unreliable and unsafe, as well as costly to owner in finding any permanent fix. This vehicle has many other unsatisfactory issues and is very poorly made in general. It's surprising there are not more recalls and complaints!
In july, 2017, the ignition key would get stuck even when the vehicle was in park. We took the vehicle in to get serviced at authorized service center the lock cylinder was replaced. In late january 2018, the same issue occurred and lock cylinder was replaced again. On 29 jan 2018, the same issue occurred for a third time ( key would turn to off position when vehicle was in park or neutral. This time the service provider stated that it was the solenoid in the transmission snifter that was the problem.this is now a $580.00 bill because even though the initial problem occurred last summer when the powertrain was under warranty, it is not under warranty now and we have to pay out of pocket.after some research then and now, it appears that this is becoming a common problem with captivas.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While the ignition was in the off position, the key was unable to be removed. The failure occurred without warning. The dealer (moran chevrolet ft gratiot, 4511 24th ave, fort gratiot twp, mi) was called, but the contact refused to get the vehicle diagnosed due to their diagnostic fees. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 52,613.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the ignition key failed to turn to shut off the vehicle. The key would not disengage from the ignition. The failure recurred intermittently. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The failure mileage was not available.
My key is stuck in the ignition and it drains my battery.
I was driving on the highway and turned on my turn signal and the car shut down.the emergency brake light came on and my power steering and brakes went out.as i tried to make my way to the side of the road, the car started running again.i was traveling at 80mph and was surrounded by others traveling at the same rate of speed.i was lucky i wasn't killed.i also have to try multiple times to start the car, and the key has to be released manually.
Several times the key will not come out of the ignition i have to take out of park and sometimes i restart several times before i can get the key out of the ignition
I have a 2014 c. Captiva at 79k miles, one sunday on my way to church, driving on the highway, i heard a pop and the car shifted right and slowed down,i get to church and the serpentine belt came off, pump was leaking oil electrical system shut down. Over $1200 in repair cost.a few months later p0430 error code - catalytic converter replaced, new brakes front and back.car has not been right since. Past 4 months traction control issues.if i hold my foot on brake at stop sign, alarm goes off dashboard lights up: traction control, engine light and stabilitrak.three different mechanics looked at my vehicle to no avail.i tookit to my chevy dealer and yesterday was advised my car is fine drive it for 150 miles.i go out this morning at 5:00 am and while at traffic light, (1.5 miles) all lights back on.whatever the issue, chevy needs to thoroughly check to see what's causing the issue, the weather is changing.i'm just over 80k miles and i believe my car has been through the extreme and has yet to be broken in.all these occurences happend within 12 months. I love this car and hopefully chevy can get to the root of my issues as they are directly related to the engine.79k miles my car went to a chevy dealer with complaints of engine .80,547 miles back in for engine repairs.diagnosis 15 loss of communication codes and low battery voltage.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key was unable to be removed from the ignition. The vehicle was taken to the dealer (billy navarre chevrolet, 1300 e college st, lake charles, la 70607, 337-474-1999 and 337-377-0601), but the failure was unable to be replicated and diagnosed because the key was able to be removed and turned in the ignition. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified and could not assist since the dealer could not replicate the failure. The vin was not available. The approximate failure mileage was 35,540.
Electrical and speed control: replaced instrument cluster and programmed.cruise control and odometer did not match programmed 70 mph and registered 68.engine: valve or lifter clatter unable to duplicate.door rattle: found lock knob vibrating in door panel hole insulate rod: noise gone.
The captiva suddenly shuts down randomly for absolutely no reason. The issue was directed to be repaired in the other chevy vehicles because they issued a service bulletin however the captiva is a fleet vehicle which means they didn't fix the known issue of putting a ford battery sensor on a chevy vehicle because fleet vehicles are rarely serviced by a dealership. This is dangerous and someone is going to die if they haven't already. This happened to me losing all power and completely shutting down going 65 mph on the freeway with my children in the car with me. I've not driven this car since august because i don't want to die and i still owe about 4 years of payments on this lemon.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key ceased in the ignition. The contact was unable to remove the key from the ignition. After several attempts the battery terminals were disconnected and the key was released from the ignition. The dealer (bay ridge chevrolet 1575 86th st, brooklyn, ny 11228 (833) 452-1829) was contacted and informed of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 54,000.
My current problem is that i am now in need of a new engine due to the fact that this engine, the same engine that is in the class action lawsuit, uses an excessive amount of oil and therefore has caused motor damage over the past 6 years. I regularly change my oil, but didn't realize how much oil this engine goes through in addition to regular oil changes. It should not need a new engine at this point if the engine functioned correctly. In addition, a few months back i have difficulty with the car not starting as if the battery was dead. No electrical would work at all in the car even with a new battery. I would have to mess with the battery connections to get the car to start or hit the fuse box. Also, i have had time with the key getting stuck in the ignition and draining the battery.
I absolutely love my car.i take it in for regular maintenance.it has 71k miles.within the past (9) serpentine belt came completely off, power steering pump had to be replaced, engine completely died electrical system needed to be repaired.car out of commission for (3) weeks, had it towed from site to my mechanic and towed from their to bowser chevrolet..now my engine light is on.sensor was replaced last week, light went out; my engine light is back on.i will be taking it in for repairs.p0420 issue.i'm hoping it falls within pa state specified major emission-control components are warranted for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use.
While driving i was suddenly overcome by a noxious odor which caused burning in my eyes, nose and throat. I turned off my a/c and opened my windows which helped dilute the odor. By chance i lifted my driver-side visor and a loud clicking occurred. I repeated this to try to figure out what was wrong, then when i grasped the rod that the visor slides on my fingers were burned and blistered.because it was so hot. The cabin lights flicker and the headlights do as well. The ceiling area by the visor becomes very hot to the touch. When the car is off, it begins to cool. I think this has been coming on for a while because of the flickering, but i had no idea that it might all be related. By the way, i had my car less than 9 months when the battery died. Odd for a 2014 vehicle.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key became stuck in the ignition and would not turn past the accessory position. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the shift assembly failed.the vehicle was not repaired. The dealer (spitzer chevrolet north canton, 7111 sunset strip ave nw, north canton, oh 44720) referred the contact to the manufacturer. The manufacturer was notified and informed the contact that the vehicle was not under warranty. The failure mileage was 46,000.
Just like numerous other complaints. This has happened several times and today was just ridiculous. The key will not come out of the ignition, we have had to wiggle the battery cable or take out of park before the car will release the key.this can take several hours before being able to travel or utilize the vehicle.
The key gets stuck in acc part of the ignition and cannot come out. It takes a long time to get unlocked and if i leave it there it will drain the battery. I see this is a common issue for this vehicle i hope gm will address the issue.
I can't remove the key from the suv after turning the vehicle off. This started about two months ago. At first i was able to turn the suv back on and was able to remove the key. It has been worst lately. As i fill out this complaint , the key is still stuck in the ignition, so if anyone would like to steal my car, they could. The suv just turned 56000 miles. Gm need to fix this, as this has been a problem not only with the captiva, but other gm models as well. I have had to sit in my car for almost an hour before the key could be removed. Had i known that this was a common problem, i would not have purchased a gm vehicle. This should be a recall,
I have owned my captivafor 16 months. The key is constantly getting stuck in the ignition. My husband had to open the steering wheel and press a button to release the key.i keep a screw driver in my car just in case the key gets stuck.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that while attempting to start the vehicle, the vehicle failed to start. The contact stated that in order for the vehicle to be started, he would move the seat backward and forward by touching the electric seat switch then the vehicle would start. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the negative battery cable was defective and needed to be replaced. The technician referred the contact to a chevrolet dealer. The vehicle was not taken to a dealer and was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 62,000.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to turn off. More than one independent mechanic and lock technician inspected and diagnosed the vehicle, but were unable to provide a permanent remedy to prevent the failure. The key remained in accessory mode, causing the contact to have to secure the vehicle with the key being unable to turn over to remove. The manufacturer advised the contact to take the vehicle to the dealer (century 3 chevrolet, 2430 lebanon church rd, west mifflin, pa 15122, 1-(412) 466-9210) for diagnostic testing. It was unknown if a dealer was contacted as of yet. The manufacturer provided no specific testing and had 111 tsbs regarding the electrical system. The approximate failure mileage was 73,650.
Car loses voltage while driving and radio shut off.sometimes car will not start and i have to bang the fuse box to get a connection.i have also seen the emergency parking brake icon, abs, traction control and service traction control all light up.
I had driven it about 12 miles and killed the car meaning i turned it off and immediately it had no power what so ever. Then sat nov 30,2019 i was driving it down the highway and the sensor lights for the parking brake came on and it chimed letting me know something was wrong and then it quit. Sun, dec 1st, 2019 i was driving down the highway in okc and the same issue with the parking brake sensor light came on several times through the night. Next, i had turned down a side road about to drive over a speed bump, when the car slipped out of 1st gear only allowing the motor to rev, and it just rolled while the inside and outside lights blinked and flickered and the doors unlocked themselves. Once i took my foot off of the gas and allowed the car to roll a few minutes, it engaged back into drive and my uber rider asked me what was wrong, and i explained, that im having electrical issues and this is not only putting me and my wife in danger, but all of my uber passengers as well. I would like to get some resolution on this issue and get it fixed, so our lives and everyone around us is out of danger.
The car will go completely dead with 0 power and the key will not come out of the ignition. Open the hood and pound on a fuse box and it will start. It is done this one is stationary and when you're pulling on to the highway or out of your driveway and it will kill itself
I recently bought a 2014 chevy captiva ltz. Upon driving it off of the lot and parking, i tried to use the button for the back windshield washer to wash the windshield and the wiper would come on but no water came out. I done this repeatedly thinking maybe it just took some time to get back there, when i started hearing water running and stopped pressing the button immediately. Immediately following that, i started to smell something burning and the speakers started making a popping sound. The washer fluid was leaking inside the rear paneling and soaking several electrical connections. This is a major fire hazard as there is a lot of instrument wiring on that side.
I own a chevy 2014 captiva lt and after putting the car into park, i was unable to get the key out of the ignition.it has / had happened maybe about 4-5 times. Eventually, i was able to get the key out.the last time i was unable. Turned off all the lights, radio, everything electrical, and closed the door. The next day, had the car battery jumped, because there was no power, and then drove the car to the dealership/garage and had it looked at...the problem, the ignition solenoid. After picking up the car, ironically, another chevy captiva was towed in with the same problem.
Key ignition doesn't work have hard time trying get car to start. While driving all electrical will go off and car will stop then after trying few times will restart. Had battery replaced and engine checked says maybe sensor.
My 2014 captiva has approximately 48,000 miles.since approximately march 1, 2019 my key has gotten stuck in my ignition in the accessory position approximately 15 times.it is getting harder and harder to get the key out.i usually have to stop and start the car several times.this happens when i try to turn the car off after putting the gear shift into park position.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the vehicle's key would intermittently become stuck in the on position inside the ignition switch. The contact took the vehicle to two separate dealers, dutch miller kia of charleston (335 maccorkle ave sw, charleston, wv 25303) and joe holland chevrolet & imports (210 maccorkle ave sw, south charleston, wv 25303) where they were both unable to remedy the vehicle. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer had not been notified. The failure mileage was approximately 25,000.
Electrical power to the vehicle cuts out randomly, causing the engine to shut down if driving and losing power steering control and power brakes or the power parking brake randomly engages, creating the potential for a driving hazard.power also cuts out randomly which causes the vehicle not to start.driver has to open the hood and manually move the negative battery cable connected to the battery, sometimes multiple times, in order for power to be restored.this manual move puts the person in immediate danger of electrical shock should anything create a power arc while performing this maneuver.gm service bulletin #13186 dated june 2013 addresses this issue with a defect in the negative battery cable, but limits it only to the warranty period only of the new vehicle and not the vehicle as a whole, yet no recall has ever been issued. Based on comments posted on the chevy forum, this problem is consistent and widespread across the chevy captiva vehicles.it is only a matter of time when one of these random power shutdowns leads to a serious accident or death.at the present time we are forced to replace both the positive and negative battery cables at a cost of $590.
1. When in cruise control and having the radio on and then using the turn signal, vehicle decelerates, (on highway(2. Tire pressure sensor was sensing the wrong tire as having low tire pressure. (in motion, city street)3. Vehicle clock resets to 12:00. (stationary)4. Vehicle will not start...wait about 1/2 an hour and maybe it will start. (stationary)i would consider this very much a safety concern. After passing a vehicle, myvehicle decelerates, which is alarming.
Just started a couple of days ago.i have a hard time getting the key out of the ignition. I have to mess with it for awhile and then it will come out. I am stationary and it park and it will still not disengage.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. On several occasions, the key seized in the ignition and was unable to be removed. The vehicle was taken to rotolo chevrolet (16666 s highland ave, fontana, ca 92336, (909) 822-1111), but the mechanic was unable to remove the key. The contact was also informed that there was an error in communication between the ignition and the gear shift lever's position. After a while of maneuvering the gear shifter from park to drive and then back to park, the contact was able to remove the key from the ignition. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 40,000.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key would release from the ignition without warning. The contact spoke with best chevrolet (2600 veterans memorial blvd, kenner, la 70062, (504) 315-7790) and was informed that the unknown recall for this defect was discontinued. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and offered a $100 voucher. The failure mileage was 100,000.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated while attempting to shut-off the vehicle, the key ceased in the accessory position. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 43,000.
Happened on four occasions almost causing major accidents that could have resulted in the death on my family. Three of which was after i took to the dealer to get it fixed, while on vacation. First event happened on june 20,2015. I was driving on the highway at 70mph. My car suddenly lost engine power and dropped to 45mph within seconds. The stabilitrac, traction control and engine lights came on. I could not get my car to go over 50 mph on interstate. When i arrived home i called chevy corporation and made a report. I dropped my vehicle off at my local dealer on 6/22. They said it was repaired and ready for pick up on 6/24. They replaced the pedal system and said the road test was good and my vehicle was safe to drive. My family and i left for vacation in this vehicle on 6/27/15. We didn't think we would have any recurring issues. Half way through our trip at 80mph on the highway our car reduced engine power and dropped to 45mph within seconds. The only option was to pull off along he highway with our three children in the vehicle. My husband turned the car off and on repeatedly until the lights finally went off. We traveled a few miles to the next exit not able to drive past 45mph. The third and fourth times happened on the way home from vacationon 7/5/15. The third time the vehicle dropped from 80mph to 40 mph. The fourth time was 75 mph sbd my husband put the vehicle in neutral so it wasn't such a drastic change in speed. Both of these times we had to pull off the highway with our three children on he vehicle. This vehicle is unsafe to drive!!! i have been in contact with chevrolet corp. I will contact them again in the morning about this issue.
My key continuously are stuck in the ignition when trying to exit.i have had to sit in my car for an hour. After constant attempts, i was finally able to remove them.have tried wd -40, not changes.once my son had to remove the front panel and unscrew parts in order to remove the key. The problem began late december and continues to date.vehicle stationary.
The car will go completely dead with 0 power and the key will not come out of the ignition. Open the hood and pound on a fuse box and it will start. It is done this one is stationary and when you're pulling on to the highway or out of your driveway and it will kill itself
I had driven it about 12 miles and killed the car meaning i turned it off and immediately it had no power what so ever. Then sat nov 30,2019 i was driving it down the highway and the sensor lights for the parking brake came on and it chimed letting me know something was wrong and then it quit. Sun, dec 1st, 2019 i was driving down the highway in okc and the same issue with the parking brake sensor light came on several times through the night. Next, i had turned down a side road about to drive over a speed bump, when the car slipped out of 1st gear only allowing the motor to rev, and it just rolled while the inside and outside lights blinked and flickered and the doors unlocked themselves. Once i took my foot off of the gas and allowed the car to roll a few minutes, it engaged back into drive and my uber rider asked me what was wrong, and i explained, that im having electrical issues and this is not only putting me and my wife in danger, but all of my uber passengers as well. I would like to get some resolution on this issue and get it fixed, so our lives and everyone around us is out of danger.
Frequently car will not start even with good battery and cable connections. While driving car will lose power. The 3 gauges(rpm, speedometer, and gas) all stop and working. The car will still run but at a much less power. Sometimes they start working but rpms will run very high and speed is greatly decreased. Message comes across to service stabilitrak and traction control. Warning lights come on such as abs, tcs warning,stabilitrak indicator, and parking brake warning. Doors lock and unlock repeatedly. At times have been able to reset by unhooking battery cable and reconnecting and waiting. No pattern as to when and why it happens. Major safety concern. Have even replaced under-hood fuse box. Oh and key gets stuck in ignition. While i will put a date, know that this is happened multiple times over the last year. Usually two times a week sometimes more
I have been complaining about safety issues with my car for over a year; since 71k miles.over the past 30 days, i have taken my captiva in for the same issues, chimes, and dashboard light up due to traction control / stabilitrak issues.i'm told there's nothing wrong with the vehicle; yet, i'm out with my granddaughters and the dashboard is continuously chiming and showing the same issues (stabilitrak and traction control).i am requesting a real chevrolet technician to look at my vehicle.i'm scheduled to take it back this coming week.miles are around 80,654. I have not had a problem with this car for four years and now i'm not comfortable driving it.last week they say a technician looked at it, but the dashboard didn't light up.my car has sat at the dealership for nine days over the past two weeks and the issue is unresolved.i am appealing to gm / chevrolet for help.i love my suv and hope to get at least 100k miles out of her.thank you!
I have a 2014 c. Captiva at 79k miles, one sunday on my way to church, driving on the highway, i heard a pop and the car shifted right and slowed down,i get to church and the serpentine belt came off, pump was leaking oil electrical system shut down. Over $1200 in repair cost.a few months later p0430 error code - catalytic converter replaced, new brakes front and back.car has not been right since. Past 4 months traction control issues.if i hold my foot on brake at stop sign, alarm goes off dashboard lights up: traction control, engine light and stabilitrak.three different mechanics looked at my vehicle to no avail.i tookit to my chevy dealer and yesterday was advised my car is fine drive it for 150 miles.i go out this morning at 5:00 am and while at traffic light, (1.5 miles) all lights back on.whatever the issue, chevy needs to thoroughly check to see what's causing the issue, the weather is changing.i'm just over 80k miles and i believe my car has been through the extreme and has yet to be broken in.all these occurences happend within 12 months. I love this car and hopefully chevy can get to the root of my issues as they are directly related to the engine.79k miles my car went to a chevy dealer with complaints of engine .80,547 miles back in for engine repairs.diagnosis 15 loss of communication codes and low battery voltage.
Key ignition doesn't work have hard time trying get car to start. While driving all electrical will go off and car will stop then after trying few times will restart. Had battery replaced and engine checked says maybe sensor.
I absolutely love my car.i take it in for regular maintenance.it has 71k miles.within the past (9) serpentine belt came completely off, power steering pump had to be replaced, engine completely died electrical system needed to be repaired.car out of commission for (3) weeks, had it towed from site to my mechanic and towed from their to bowser chevrolet..now my engine light is on.sensor was replaced last week, light went out; my engine light is back on.i will be taking it in for repairs.p0420 issue.i'm hoping it falls within pa state specified major emission-control components are warranted for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use.
Usse too much oil, have to put 2 quarts in between oil changes, 3000 miles. The car was running sitting and the car shut off. Then when we left there a lot of oil on the parking lot.a message came on and it said to add oil, we put 3 qts in and drove about 14 miles and the car was out of oil
My vehicle wouldn't start, thought it was the battery, wouldn't take a jump, had towed to mechanic, told timing chain broke, need a new, used or rebuilt engine. It only has 84000 miles on it, oil changes done regularly, read other complaints, seem very simular
8 months ago i replaced 2 sensors on the car and now the same 2 sensors are bad. Prevents vehicle from going into park and the key from coming out of the ignition.
Drove to a park and saw a poof of smoke along with a strong smell inside the captive, and we quickly got out and radiator fluid started leaking.
Chevy captiva [xxx] i received a letter saying that it was a recall on my car. Is it the gas has leaked into my engine and now the catalytic converterhas gone bad. The car was moving when the engine light came on.information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
Key ignition doesn't work have hard time trying get car to start. While driving all electrical will go off and car will stop then after trying few times will restart. Had battery replaced and engine checked says maybe sensor.
Rented the captiva from enterprise at jacksonville, fl, airport. Engine had clattered a bit at slow speeds but not on highway. On third and last day we were driving away after a traffic light had turned green and the engine just stopped working. The car turned off. I put on the hazard lights and turned into right lane, then into a parking lot that luckily happened to be next to it. All the cars around us were moving slowly - again, luckily - because they had been stopped at the traffic light. I lost the power in steering and also the brakes. I did not knock against the keys in the ignition and i could think of nothing unusual that happened before the engine just failed.
Happened on four occasions almost causing major accidents that could have resulted in the death on my family. Three of which was after i took to the dealer to get it fixed, while on vacation. First event happened on june 20,2015. I was driving on the highway at 70mph. My car suddenly lost engine power and dropped to 45mph within seconds. The stabilitrac, traction control and engine lights came on. I could not get my car to go over 50 mph on interstate. When i arrived home i called chevy corporation and made a report. I dropped my vehicle off at my local dealer on 6/22. They said it was repaired and ready for pick up on 6/24. They replaced the pedal system and said the road test was good and my vehicle was safe to drive. My family and i left for vacation in this vehicle on 6/27/15. We didn't think we would have any recurring issues. Half way through our trip at 80mph on the highway our car reduced engine power and dropped to 45mph within seconds. The only option was to pull off along he highway with our three children in the vehicle. My husband turned the car off and on repeatedly until the lights finally went off. We traveled a few miles to the next exit not able to drive past 45mph. The third and fourth times happened on the way home from vacationon 7/5/15. The third time the vehicle dropped from 80mph to 40 mph. The fourth time was 75 mph sbd my husband put the vehicle in neutral so it wasn't such a drastic change in speed. Both of these times we had to pull off the highway with our three children on he vehicle. This vehicle is unsafe to drive!!! i have been in contact with chevrolet corp. I will contact them again in the morning about this issue.
Car has never missed an oil change, actually sometimes i go before the recommended time. All of sudden the timing belt breaks because there is no oil in the car. The oil was not even due to be changed, no leaks and no smells. Chevy should be ashamed of themselves. According to google this is a common problem that happens to these cars at or around 90kmiles. I guess i was lucky that i did get oil changes so often, i made it a little longer. This is the reason that toyota and honda are doing so well. They make quality cars and although everyone says support us based companies, things like this make it hard.
Car did not even have 125k miles on it and it started knocking.took it into my local shop and they said that the rods were knocking and that the engine was going. Ended up putting in a brand new crate motor.i rememeber a time when chevy's would lastfor up to 200k miles.i am very disappointed that i had to spend all that money on a new motor.
In motion at approx. 35mph the engine died. Was on a public highway going straight.
Truck keeps cutting off!!
My engine was using to much oil.it is the same engine in the class action suite against gm's for the chevy equinox they told me there was nothing they could do but it is the same engine that is being recalled i have three kids and my car just quit on me due to there messed up engine and they refuse to fix it chevy captivas have the same engine and this should be addressed
I have to put 1-3 quarts of oil in my car at least 2-3 times before my next oil change. It burns way to much oil.
I absolutely love my car.i take it in for regular maintenance.it has 71k miles.within the past (9) serpentine belt came completely off, power steering pump had to be replaced, engine completely died electrical system needed to be repaired.car out of commission for (3) weeks, had it towed from site to my mechanic and towed from their to bowser chevrolet..now my engine light is on.sensor was replaced last week, light went out; my engine light is back on.i will be taking it in for repairs.p0420 issue.i'm hoping it falls within pa state specified major emission-control components are warranted for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use.
Pcv system defective, bad oil consumption and engine noises while idle-driving
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving 25 mph, an abnormal noise could be heard coming form the engine. There were no warning indicators illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic who diagnosed that the drive belt and drive belt tensioner failed and needed to be repaired. The vehicle was not repaired. The local dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and stated that the vehicle was not included in a recall. The failure mileage was approximately 29,752.
In january 2020 i took the car into the shop after hearing noise from the engine. I had to have the timing chain replaced, but as they looked it over they said the engine needed replaced, due to oil leaking. A couple weeks before it was very cold close to 4 degrees and while i was driving into work at 6am i heard a loud sound while at a red light, it sounded like a gun shot. I assumed it was coming from a nearby neighborhood. But to find out my mechanic said that was the engine frozen and popped. He said when its cold that happens to this engine. Unreal!two weeks ago, my car started to smell like it was burning and gas. So i took it in and they replaced the cat converter,exhaust manifold, and leaking seal.last week, i went to unlock the doors with the remote the rear wiper fluid motor started and ran continuously, to the point it doesn't work at all now. Now this week my trunk will not open, both front head lights burnt out, my traction control keeps turning on/off, my speakers are popping, radio is cutting in/out.i bought this car from the dealer in 2014 with 12k miles on it, always serviced the vehicle, changed the oil regularly, inspected yearly, preventive maintenance every 6 months. Now have 83k miles and i need this car to last me two more years.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key fob failed to unlock the doors and had the doors had to be manually locked and unlocked. The key fob was stuck in the ignition. While driving 65 mph, the instrument cluster flashed and the vehicle stalled and restarted. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer (jack schmitt chevrolet, 127 regency park, ofallon, il 62269), but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the issue and opened case number: 8-3424683927. The contact was advised to take the vehicle to the dealer. The failure mileage was 62,200.
My current problem is that i am now in need of a new engine due to the fact that this engine, the same engine that is in the class action lawsuit, uses an excessive amount of oil and therefore has caused motor damage over the past 6 years. I regularly change my oil, but didn't realize how much oil this engine goes through in addition to regular oil changes. It should not need a new engine at this point if the engine functioned correctly. In addition, a few months back i have difficulty with the car not starting as if the battery was dead. No electrical would work at all in the car even with a new battery. I would have to mess with the battery connections to get the car to start or hit the fuse box. Also, i have had time with the key getting stuck in the ignition and draining the battery.
I have a 2014 c. Captiva at 79k miles, one sunday on my way to church, driving on the highway, i heard a pop and the car shifted right and slowed down,i get to church and the serpentine belt came off, pump was leaking oil electrical system shut down. Over $1200 in repair cost.a few months later p0430 error code - catalytic converter replaced, new brakes front and back.car has not been right since. Past 4 months traction control issues.if i hold my foot on brake at stop sign, alarm goes off dashboard lights up: traction control, engine light and stabilitrak.three different mechanics looked at my vehicle to no avail.i tookit to my chevy dealer and yesterday was advised my car is fine drive it for 150 miles.i go out this morning at 5:00 am and while at traffic light, (1.5 miles) all lights back on.whatever the issue, chevy needs to thoroughly check to see what's causing the issue, the weather is changing.i'm just over 80k miles and i believe my car has been through the extreme and has yet to be broken in.all these occurences happend within 12 months. I love this car and hopefully chevy can get to the root of my issues as they are directly related to the engine.79k miles my car went to a chevy dealer with complaints of engine .80,547 miles back in for engine repairs.diagnosis 15 loss of communication codes and low battery voltage.
Key gets stuck in ignition and takes many tries to get it out, even from day one of buying it. Was informed that was a "safety" feature provided by chevy themselves. When shutting off the vehicle, everything dies out like the battery went completely dead and car won't start again. Have to play with battery wires and fuse box before i hear the car make any noise again. Was informed by more than one mechanic that there are gm recalls for the thermal cable, battery protective cable, and starter motors, but nothing for my vin has popped up. Have found almost 100 other complaints on multiple sites and more than a dozen reported accidents due to this issue. Car sits at almost 98,000 miles now and it will not turn over for me. Recalls should be put out for the entirety of this model because i have met 2 other people who have had the exact same problem and were informed that the dealerships have refused to acknowledge prior recall or safety information.
As the class action lawsuit finalized for the 2010-2013 chevrolet equinox and gm terrain 2.4l ecotec oil consumption. The 2014 chevy captiva is experiencing the same issues with their 2.4l ecotec engines with excessive oil consumption as damaged engine components causing issues. I have noticed engine knocking and constant check engine lights. I have to put 2 quarts of oil in every 3000 miles. The vehicle has a rough idle when sitting and lacks acceleration. It continues to burn out my o2 sensors and cam sensors. The dealership i took too for regular service neglected to address these issues till i found out about the class action suit already against them and my car being 4 quarts low on oil.
Electrical and speed control: replaced instrument cluster and programmed.cruise control and odometer did not match programmed 70 mph and registered 68.engine: valve or lifter clatter unable to duplicate.door rattle: found lock knob vibrating in door panel hole insulate rod: noise gone.
2014 chevrolet captiva sport lt manifold cracked causing leak and fumes going inside the car. Doing research i found article about the chevrolet equinox having same issue and it has a recall.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving approximately 10 mph and making a right turn, the power steering malfunctioned and the steering wheel became very difficult to turn. After restarting the vehicle, the steering operated normally. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer (pete moore chevrolet, 106 n. New warrington rd, pensacola, fl) where it was diagnosed that the interior and exterior camshaft and the power steering gear were faulty and needed to be replaced. Also, the power steering fluid leaked out. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 75,022.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. When the air conditioner was activated, an ammonia odor emitted from the vents without warning. As a result, the contact sustained burning and irritation to the eyes. In addition, the interior dome light continuously flickered. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failures. The failure mileage was 38,000.
While driving i was suddenly overcome by a noxious odor which caused burning in my eyes, nose and throat. I turned off my a/c and opened my windows which helped dilute the odor. By chance i lifted my driver-side visor and a loud clicking occurred. I repeated this to try to figure out what was wrong, then when i grasped the rod that the visor slides on my fingers were burned and blistered.because it was so hot. The cabin lights flicker and the headlights do as well. The ceiling area by the visor becomes very hot to the touch. When the car is off, it begins to cool. I think this has been coming on for a while because of the flickering, but i had no idea that it might all be related. By the way, i had my car less than 9 months when the battery died. Odd for a 2014 vehicle.
Truck keeps cutting off!!
The vehicle idle control began misbehaving, whether stationary or in motion. The car constantly idled higher than it should, even after a throttle body replacement and fuel pump replacement.now the car is riding worse than ever, with a lot of vibration in the steering column/brakes, which happens sitting still and worsens as the speed climbs. The windshield washer pumps (front and back) have both gone out. The suspension is horrible and despite new tires, balancing, rotation, alignments...brakes/rotors, you name it ... The car just doesn't drive very smoothly. Now the engine is knocking and the timing chain sounds like it is in need of replacement. I doubt i will ever buy another chevy, despite being loyal to the brand and only purchasing chevys. Highly disappointed in their craftsmanship, if you can call it that.
The vehicle's engine died when idling at stop light. It restarted and died immediately and the oil light came on.oil blew out the exhaust pipe and covered the back of the vehicle.the rest of the oil drained onto the street below the vehicle.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. When the air conditioner was activated, an ammonia odor emitted from the vents without warning. As a result, the contact sustained burning and irritation to the eyes. In addition, the interior dome light continuously flickered. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failures. The failure mileage was 38,000.
While driving lost suddenly lost movement , made it into a driveway and lost all gears. Underneath was a huge puddle of fluid. The fitting from the transmission line to the coolant blew. This happened on 2/4/2017 it has been at the dealers since 2/6/2017 and its now 2/17/2017. They say the parts on back order...its a flippin hose come on! now we are being told that they will find something out by 2/21/2017. Mean while i have no vehicle. Gm sounded helpful til when we called them back when they told us to and never got back to us.the 2014 chevy captiva sport is a fleet vehicle, why this has anything to do with not having the hose is beyond common sense to me. If anything then they should have the part on the ready. It would be nice if gm or the dealer could compensate by giving us a loaner...but nooooo. One on is willing to work with us. We did evrything that we could do....did all our check ups and maintenance at the dealership when we we're suppose to and this is what we get. Got the extendant warranty and all. For what...?
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated that the key became stuck in the ignition and would not turn past the accessory position. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed that the shift assembly failed.the vehicle was not repaired. The dealer (spitzer chevrolet north canton, 7111 sunset strip ave nw, north canton, oh 44720) referred the contact to the manufacturer. The manufacturer was notified and informed the contact that the vehicle was not under warranty. The failure mileage was 46,000.
When in park, the key sticks in the ignition due to failed shifting functionalities. I cannot remove my key and the battery drains completely due to the dash lights and other systems being activated by the key's presence in the ignition. I have searched online and discovered that the key can be manually released by pressing a switch under the plastic cover near the ignition. Before i learned this trick, i had to leave the key in all day and it drained my battery completely. I am concerned since i have heard of deaths that occur when the vehicle rolls backwards or forwards because it is either not in gear or the car thinks that is is still "on" because the key is in the ignition. This has been covered in other gm vehicles and should be covered in the captiva as well but i was told by the dealership that this was a promo car and not enough of them were produced for it to qualify as a recallwhat????these defects should be indefinitely covered by gm recalls since gm is an american made car and this is definitely a quality and safety issue.
The key isn't releasing from the ignition. You must turn car on and off, move gear shift in and out of park to manual and back to park again then try again to start the car and turn it off to get it to release to off position instead of getting stuck at the acc position. This happens at the most inconvenient times. Taking anywhere from 5 minutes to 3 hours to get it out of the ignition. Very frustration when you need to be to work at a certain time and are even early. Then still end up being late because the key won't come out of the ignition. This should be a recall issue. Reading through some of the other complaints this is a common occurrence in many gm models. You shouldn't have to take and extra set of keys with you and pray while you are at work no one steals your vehicle.
The key gets stuck in the ignition and will not turn back past acc. This requires the operator to turn the vehicle on and off countless times, leave the keys in the ignition, leave the car running etc, because the key will not come out. Engaging the shifter and turning the steering wheel do not send a 'signal' to let the key release.
My vehicle has the same ignition/key/gearshiftissues as 25 million vehicles covered by gm's 2014 "extended service agreement"/recall- when in park, the key sticks in the ignition due to failed shifting functionalities. I cannot remove my key and the battery drains completely due to the dash lights and other systems being activated by the key's presence in the ignition. I find this extremely dangerous. Is my vehicle really in park? can it roll over me, my child, or someone else when i park it and walk away? gm is already known for its ignition design defects and the subsequent deaths. All gm vehicles exhibiting signs of these defects should be indefinitely covered by gm recalls or extended service agreements.
Vehicle was in motion on a city street , while trying to make a u-turn, my vehicle gear shifted back to neutral and park . When i applied the brakes the brakes didn't work and my car was still moving forward. I pushed back the gear to park position and stopped at a curb. I couldn't start back the vehicle anymore, if it wasn't for the curb i could have hit someone or a tree and hurt myself.
Key gets stuck, will only turn backwards to the acc and will not come out. This happens when parking the car and turning it off. You have to pray when parking the car.
The key is stuck in the ignition. It will not go past the accessory to turn off. The car is left on with the key stuck in the ignition with the battery going dead. The lighted ring around where you put the key in also goes on and off.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva.the contact stated that the key would be stuck in the 'acc' position. The vehicle was taken to the dealer (lou bachrodt chevrolet buick gmc 7070 cherryvale n blvd, rockford, il 61112) where it was diagnosed that failure was due to a failed shifter module.the vehicle was repaired.the manufacturer was notified and case number: 8-4010022838 was opened.the failure mileage was 70,860.
As the class action lawsuit finalized for the 2010-2013 chevrolet equinox and gm terrain 2.4l ecotec oil consumption. The 2014 chevy captiva is experiencing the same issues with their 2.4l ecotec engines with excessive oil consumption as damaged engine components causing issues. I have noticed engine knocking and constant check engine lights. I have to put 2 quarts of oil in every 3000 miles. The vehicle has a rough idle when sitting and lacks acceleration. It continues to burn out my o2 sensors and cam sensors. The dealership i took too for regular service neglected to address these issues till i found out about the class action suit already against them and my car being 4 quarts low on oil.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. When the contact placed the key in the ignition, it failed to move from the acc position. The failure occurred without warning. After the contact turned the steering wheel and jiggled the gear shift, the vehicle was able to crank. The contact stated that the failure recurred several times. The vehicle was taken to sullivan-parkhill chevrolet cadillac (440 w. Anthony dr., champaign, il 61822, (217)-351-4715) where it was diagnosed that the transmission shifter failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and informed the contact that the vin was not included in a recall. The failure mileage was 70,000.
Blew the rear main seal in cold weather due to clogged pcv valve.gm service bulletin 14882 covers 2011-2013 why does it not cover my 2014 same engine same problem!!
I can't remove the key from the suv after turning the vehicle off. This started about two months ago. At first i was able to turn the suv back on and was able to remove the key. It has been worst lately. As i fill out this complaint , the key is still stuck in the ignition, so if anyone would like to steal my car, they could. The suv just turned 56000 miles. Gm need to fix this, as this has been a problem not only with the captiva, but other gm models as well. I have had to sit in my car for almost an hour before the key could be removed. Had i known that this was a common problem, i would not have purchased a gm vehicle. This should be a recall,
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. The contact stated while the vehicle was turned off, she attempted to remove the child form the car seat and was unable to unlatch the seat belt from the buckle. The contact stated she had to cut the rear driver's seat belt strap with a pair of scissors. The contact stated that recently while a passenger was seated in the front passenger seat the shoulder strap was placed behind the passenger however, the lap strap was in front and the seat belt was latched. The contact stated that when she attempted to unlatch the seat belt it failed to unlatch. The vehicle was not yet diagnosed nor repaired. A dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer had not been informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 118,000. The vin was not available.
I was driving on the highway and turned on my turn signal and the car shut down.the emergency brake light came on and my power steering and brakes went out.as i tried to make my way to the side of the road, the car started running again.i was traveling at 80mph and was surrounded by others traveling at the same rate of speed.i was lucky i wasn't killed.i also have to try multiple times to start the car, and the key has to be released manually.
Rented the captiva from enterprise at jacksonville, fl, airport. Engine had clattered a bit at slow speeds but not on highway. On third and last day we were driving away after a traffic light had turned green and the engine just stopped working. The car turned off. I put on the hazard lights and turned into right lane, then into a parking lot that luckily happened to be next to it. All the cars around us were moving slowly - again, luckily - because they had been stopped at the traffic light. I lost the power in steering and also the brakes. I did not knock against the keys in the ignition and i could think of nothing unusual that happened before the engine just failed.
Vehicle was in motion on a city street , while trying to make a u-turn, my vehicle gear shifted back to neutral and park . When i applied the brakes the brakes didn't work and my car was still moving forward. I pushed back the gear to park position and stopped at a curb. I couldn't start back the vehicle anymore, if it wasn't for the curb i could have hit someone or a tree and hurt myself.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving approximately 45 mph, the brake pedal was depressed, but failed to engage. As a result, the vehicle struck a sign post and crashed into an oats farm field. The air bags did not deploy. There were no warning indicators illuminated. A police report was not filed. The driver sustained a few injuries, but did not require medical attention. The vehicle was damaged, but was drivable. The contact called john l. Sullivan chevrolet at 916-782-1243 (350 autumn dr, roseville, ca 95661) and the call was disconnected. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated that an investigator would inspect the vehicle. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 56,000.
Rented the captiva from enterprise at jacksonville, fl, airport. Engine had clattered a bit at slow speeds but not on highway. On third and last day we were driving away after a traffic light had turned green and the engine just stopped working. The car turned off. I put on the hazard lights and turned into right lane, then into a parking lot that luckily happened to be next to it. All the cars around us were moving slowly - again, luckily - because they had been stopped at the traffic light. I lost the power in steering and also the brakes. I did not knock against the keys in the ignition and i could think of nothing unusual that happened before the engine just failed.
Takata inflatorsmy chevrolet captiva 2014 has a power steering malfunctioned i was parked with the mother running air condition on then the air condition get warmwhen i started to drive the steering was very hard to do
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving in snow at 20 mph, the wheel well was consumed with snow and caused the steering wheel to become difficult to turn. In addition, the traction and the abs warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, but the failure was unable to be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 22,000.... Updated 06-02-15 updated 10/11/2017
Key gets stuck in the ignition. It's not reading that it's in park. From what i've been reading online, it's a common problem with this model. Wiring has a short somewhere. I've had to change my break lights 3 times and had to change my head lights 7 times since the 2 years i've had it. With as being a newer vehicle, i shouldn't have this many problems.
I was driving on the highway and turned on my turn signal and the car shut down.the emergency brake light came on and my power steering and brakes went out.as i tried to make my way to the side of the road, the car started running again.i was traveling at 80mph and was surrounded by others traveling at the same rate of speed.i was lucky i wasn't killed.i also have to try multiple times to start the car, and the key has to be released manually.
While going at a low speed slowed down to make right turn in a business driveway and my steering locked up could not turn steering wheel. I turned ignition car starts, but still unable to turn.
My car was in motion and as i eased off the gas to slow down to make a right turn into a business driveway i had no control of the steering locked up and car shut down. I turned ignition it starts but wheni put in drive steering was hard. Had to have towed.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving approximately 10 mph and making a right turn, the power steering malfunctioned and the steering wheel became very difficult to turn. After restarting the vehicle, the steering operated normally. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer (pete moore chevrolet, 106 n. New warrington rd, pensacola, fl) where it was diagnosed that the interior and exterior camshaft and the power steering gear were faulty and needed to be replaced. Also, the power steering fluid leaked out. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was 75,022.
Takata recall car parked in garage. Daughter tried to open left side passenger doorand the door handle broke. If this was an emergency, lives could have been lost!
5/13/2014 - during stop and go traffic jam at florida interstate 95 in miami dade county, , amazulu transport corporation - driver employee - [xxx] rear ended my wife- [xxx]. At the scene of the accident, [xxx] contacted his corporate office and provided false insurance documentation to the florida highway patrol. Amazulu transport was directly contacted via phone call but have refused any returning phone calls to provide us with their insurance company's address. Amazulu transport is in the business oftransporting vwhicles back and forth in the state of florida. Amazulutransport apparently is operating a business in florida without any/noinsurance coverage whatsoever and providing fhp with false information. Registered corporate owners of this florida corporation are as follows: [xxx]. Registered corporate address is = 926 w hillsborough ave. Tampa, fl 33614 tel (407)482 - 4142.accident report # [xxx].information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
I was involved in a collision & was hit hard front passenger & side passenger. Was t boned at busy intersection. I was driving down a busy city street. My upper body/sternum/upper abdomen hit the steering wheel full force, my airbag did not deploy & seatbelt did not lock down in place immediately like it should have. Went by ambulance to hospital with sternal, ribs, & spinal injuries. I want to know why airbag did not deploy to protect me & why seatbelt did not lock down quickly enough so i would not hit steering wheel.
We were involved in a domino effect accident, where my car was totaled. It suffered severe front and rear damage, with the rear window shattered as we were struck from behind while stopped in traffic on an interstate. None of the airbags deployed.
Both back seat interior handles broken under normal usage. Car was stationary. The doors can be open with great effort. This is dangerous!
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving in snow at 20 mph, the wheel well was consumed with snow and caused the steering wheel to become difficult to turn. In addition, the traction and the abs warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, but the failure was unable to be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 22,000.... Updated 06-02-15 updated 10/11/2017
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While the vehicle was stationary, the interior front driver and passenger side door handles fractured in half and exposed a jagged, sharp edge. Dick smith chevrolet of moncks corner (1601 us-5,2 moncks corner, sc 29461) was made aware of the failure and stated that the door handles were "very useable parts". The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and stated that there was no recall on the vehicle. The failure mileage was 70,000.
The vehicle idle control began misbehaving, whether stationary or in motion. The car constantly idled higher than it should, even after a throttle body replacement and fuel pump replacement.now the car is riding worse than ever, with a lot of vibration in the steering column/brakes, which happens sitting still and worsens as the speed climbs. The windshield washer pumps (front and back) have both gone out. The suspension is horrible and despite new tires, balancing, rotation, alignments...brakes/rotors, you name it ... The car just doesn't drive very smoothly. Now the engine is knocking and the timing chain sounds like it is in need of replacement. I doubt i will ever buy another chevy, despite being loyal to the brand and only purchasing chevys. Highly disappointed in their craftsmanship, if you can call it that.
I was involved in a collision & was hit hard front passenger & side passenger. Was t boned at busy intersection. I was driving down a busy city street. My upper body/sternum/upper abdomen hit the steering wheel full force, my airbag did not deploy & seatbelt did not lock down in place immediately like it should have. Went by ambulance to hospital with sternal, ribs, & spinal injuries. I want to know why airbag did not deploy to protect me & why seatbelt did not lock down quickly enough so i would not hit steering wheel.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving in snow at 20 mph, the wheel well was consumed with snow and caused the steering wheel to become difficult to turn. In addition, the traction and the abs warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer, but the failure was unable to be determined. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 22,000.... Updated 06-02-15 updated 10/11/2017
Have a captive with about 45000 miles on it. The past few days have been having the problem of the key getting stuck in the ignition. The first few times i was able to fiddlewith the gear shift by putting the car in drive and then back in park. I was then able to get the key out. However this last time i could not remove the key no matter how many times i tried. Luckily i have an extended warranty with a 200 dollar deductible so hopefully it won cost to much to fix.
8 months ago i replaced 2 sensors on the car and now the same 2 sensors are bad. Prevents vehicle from going into park and the key from coming out of the ignition.
The key cannot be removed from the ignition when parked. It won't turn to the 'off' position. It stays locked on the 'acc' position. I have had the problem looked at by certified chevrolet mechanics from the dealership and they cannot seem to find a solution to the problem they did replace the gear shift thinking it wasn't communicating properly to be able to remove the key, however this did not fix the problem.
Key sticks in the ignition after putting the car in park and trying to shut if off. I have to restart, move the gearshift back and forth then try to turn off multiple times before i'm able to get the key to release. So far this is only happening when i am parking the car. I have found instances of the ignition turning off while the car is being driven resulting in crashs and/or deaths. Purchased in aug 2016. Victory chevy in petaluma, ca has replaced the park lock solenoid twice but key still sticks in ignition. This is a huge safety concern since 50+ people have died with cars having this same problem. I don't want to be a statistic.
The key will not come out the ignition when i turn the car off, i have to leave the key in and disconnect the battery and use my spare key to lock the vehicle, such a hassle
The ignition switch doesn't always turn all the way off, so i can't get my key out. I have to restart my car a number of times and finally after about 10 to 15 minutes i'll get lucky & it will click all the way to off & then i can get my key out. There even times when i couldn't get my key out and it ran my battery down and then i had to have a jump to get my car started....it is absolutely horrible !!!!!!! please help....
Unable to remove key from the ignition. Took to the the dealership and the diagnosis was the gearshift lever. See attached receipt.
I recently bought a 2014 chevy captiva ltz. Upon driving it off of the lot and parking, i tried to use the button for the back windshield washer to wash the windshield and the wiper would come on but no water came out. I done this repeatedly thinking maybe it just took some time to get back there, when i started hearing water running and stopped pressing the button immediately. Immediately following that, i started to smell something burning and the speakers started making a popping sound. The washer fluid was leaking inside the rear paneling and soaking several electrical connections. This is a major fire hazard as there is a lot of instrument wiring on that side.
The air gets hot when sitting still. The air even on high will barely work at times. When switched on just the tip face vents, it becomes stuck blowing only on feet for days at a time.
Can't shut off car key only goes to acc can i remove key from ignition
My key continuously are stuck in the ignition when trying to exit.i have had to sit in my car for an hour. After constant attempts, i was finally able to remove them.have tried wd -40, not changes.once my son had to remove the front panel and unscrew parts in order to remove the key. The problem began late december and continues to date.vehicle stationary.
On july 9, 2015 at approximately 4pm i noticed what appeared to be (cold) frost blowing from the inside vents of my vehicle, and as i looked at the temp. Gauge i noticed it was going up in the 200s so i immediately turned on my heat too reduced the temp., because i thought th vehicle was over heating. But after awhile i notied the temp was not going down so i switched ti the ac, and immediately the temp. Began to go down back to normal, which is 181 on average. I'm not sure what this means, as i did have coolant in the overflow tank. I took the vehicle in for an oil change and mentioned this issue to the service person and they stated something about the ac compressor, which i did not understand. So i've been running my ac whenever the temp gauge goes up. To this day i still don't know why this is happening.
The key is intermittently getting stuck in the ignition when the car is placed in park.
When i put my car in park, sometimes i can't get the key to turn off the car.i have to back up, pull forward several times then finally sometimes i can get the key out.i was completely stopped and in park.it happens a lot.
The key gets stuck in ignition and takes alot of jimming with it to get key out, dealer wants to charge 90.00 just to look at that , not including what it will cost to fix.
While driving i was suddenly overcome by a noxious odor which caused burning in my eyes, nose and throat. I turned off my a/c and opened my windows which helped dilute the odor. By chance i lifted my driver-side visor and a loud clicking occurred. I repeated this to try to figure out what was wrong, then when i grasped the rod that the visor slides on my fingers were burned and blistered.because it was so hot. The cabin lights flicker and the headlights do as well. The ceiling area by the visor becomes very hot to the touch. When the car is off, it begins to cool. I think this has been coming on for a while because of the flickering, but i had no idea that it might all be related. By the way, i had my car less than 9 months when the battery died. Odd for a 2014 vehicle.
We bought the 2014 capativa and drove it for about a month. When you would back up it would make a grinding noise. Then in a few days you couldn't hardly hold it in the road like you had a tire coming off. We were on the highway and if you got over 50 miles a hour took both hands to hold it in the road. If you got under 50 and stayed you could hold it in the road. Took it to the dealer and they checked it out and found both roaters in front was worped and had been put on that way from factory. The would not do anything about it and the car was still under warentery. I had to go buy both front roaters and pay for having them replaced. The machinace told us if we hadn't of went ahead and changed them when we did they could of locked up or the whole wheel and all came of going down the road. This could of cause a bad wreack . The car only had 3600 miles on it when it started making the noise were we could hear it. My point is if you buy something and it is still under warenaty they should of fixed this problem and paid for it not me.it coast us 400.00 for roators and then another 350.00 for the labor not counting the 500.00 for the tires that it had wore in places that was not fit to have on the car. They could of blowed out or anything and caused us to wreack. This dealer didn't even act like they were concorened about it at all. I have talked to 10 or 12 people that owns a capativa 2014 and they have had to do same thing. I thing the company should check in to this and pay the owners of these vechiels the money they are our for buying a suv that has this problem and they would not stand up to the wareantey like they are suppose to. I love chevys but if they not going to stand behind their vehicles when you have a problem i guess i will have to start driving a ford.
The ignition switch on my 2014 chevy captiva gets stuck and it does not allow the key to be removed when turning it off when stationary. Upon personal research it was discovered that this model has had this issue with countless drivers (typically at 40k-50k miles) and is not addressed by gm as a recall or safety issue. However, when the switch is unable to be removed it is a sensory issue, the vehicle key is also able to come out while on drive. A simple search 'chevy captiva key stuck' will result in many such incidents.
The key gets stuck in ignition and can't be removed when in park. If key can't be removed and remains in the car, it will drain the battery. The key gets stuck often maybe every other trip but at least once a day. This started happening over the last 6 months on random occasions but has increased in frequency in the last 30 days. It's now a regular event in which the key won't release from the ignition. Sometimes after multiple attempts at restarting the car and changing from park to drive and then to park again and changing position of the key, it may release after 20 minutes of this process. This is a safety issue because the car can be stolen with a key left in the ignition and/or the battery will be drained. Both are not good. There are numerous reports of this issue on the internet from other other with same car.
We were involved in a domino effect accident, where my car was totaled. It suffered severe front and rear damage, with the rear window shattered as we were struck from behind while stopped in traffic on an interstate. None of the airbags deployed.
My key keep getting stuck in the ignition it won't turn on lock to get the key out.
Ignition, when driving and after parking could not remove the key. No matter what i was trying to do could not remove the key, had to drive off again many times and stop and try remove the key. After a while and this being a major safety hazardi turned over to have it fixed at scott auto repair. Cost me $689.90 and expect to be refund by the manufactureras this is a defect since have only 19662 miles on the speed meter of the car
Can't remove the key from ignition
Heating system is stuck in a/c mode
The captiva suddenly shuts down randomly for absolutely no reason. The issue was directed to be repaired in the other chevy vehicles because they issued a service bulletin however the captiva is a fleet vehicle which means they didn't fix the known issue of putting a ford battery sensor on a chevy vehicle because fleet vehicles are rarely serviced by a dealership. This is dangerous and someone is going to die if they haven't already. This happened to me losing all power and completely shutting down going 65 mph on the freeway with my children in the car with me. I've not driven this car since august because i don't want to die and i still owe about 4 years of payments on this lemon.
The car accelerate rapidly as i was turning inside the atm drive thru of the pnc bank in lancaster pa on 12/06/2016 time 11:00 hrs am and car was out of control i almost hit 2 pedestrian at that moment i intent to stop the car applying the brakes and car got faster i have to use my 2 foots on the brake pedal put the car on neutral and car was like a race car at that point shut off the car with the key ignition, them i call the dealer, they didnt fine a code for this problem and try to blame my floor matt, not true to believe,,, please help me with this, thanks
Frequently car will not start even with good battery and cable connections. While driving car will lose power. The 3 gauges(rpm, speedometer, and gas) all stop and working. The car will still run but at a much less power. Sometimes they start working but rpms will run very high and speed is greatly decreased. Message comes across to service stabilitrak and traction control. Warning lights come on such as abs, tcs warning,stabilitrak indicator, and parking brake warning. Doors lock and unlock repeatedly. At times have been able to reset by unhooking battery cable and reconnecting and waiting. No pattern as to when and why it happens. Major safety concern. Have even replaced under-hood fuse box. Oh and key gets stuck in ignition. While i will put a date, know that this is happened multiple times over the last year. Usually two times a week sometimes more
Electrical and speed control: replaced instrument cluster and programmed.cruise control and odometer did not match programmed 70 mph and registered 68.engine: valve or lifter clatter unable to duplicate.door rattle: found lock knob vibrating in door panel hole insulate rod: noise gone.
There is no temperature variance for the dash defroster (only on defrost setting). It is either extremely cold or extremely hot. Maita chevrolet in elk grove is claiming "that's the way it was designed" their logic is off, nor have i found any evidence of that statement to be true.
In january 2020 i took the car into the shop after hearing noise from the engine. I had to have the timing chain replaced, but as they looked it over they said the engine needed replaced, due to oil leaking. A couple weeks before it was very cold close to 4 degrees and while i was driving into work at 6am i heard a loud sound while at a red light, it sounded like a gun shot. I assumed it was coming from a nearby neighborhood. But to find out my mechanic said that was the engine frozen and popped. He said when its cold that happens to this engine. Unreal!two weeks ago, my car started to smell like it was burning and gas. So i took it in and they replaced the cat converter,exhaust manifold, and leaking seal.last week, i went to unlock the doors with the remote the rear wiper fluid motor started and ran continuously, to the point it doesn't work at all now. Now this week my trunk will not open, both front head lights burnt out, my traction control keeps turning on/off, my speakers are popping, radio is cutting in/out.i bought this car from the dealer in 2014 with 12k miles on it, always serviced the vehicle, changed the oil regularly, inspected yearly, preventive maintenance every 6 months. Now have 83k miles and i need this car to last me two more years.
The vehicle idle control began misbehaving, whether stationary or in motion. The car constantly idled higher than it should, even after a throttle body replacement and fuel pump replacement.now the car is riding worse than ever, with a lot of vibration in the steering column/brakes, which happens sitting still and worsens as the speed climbs. The windshield washer pumps (front and back) have both gone out. The suspension is horrible and despite new tires, balancing, rotation, alignments...brakes/rotors, you name it ... The car just doesn't drive very smoothly. Now the engine is knocking and the timing chain sounds like it is in need of replacement. I doubt i will ever buy another chevy, despite being loyal to the brand and only purchasing chevys. Highly disappointed in their craftsmanship, if you can call it that.
The contact owns a 2014 chevrolet captiva. While driving approximately 65 mph, the sun roof exploded outwards. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. A local dealer was not contacted. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, opened a case, and referred the contact to nhtsa. The failure mileage and vin were unknown.
I was involved in a collision & was hit hard front passenger & side passenger. Was t boned at busy intersection. I was driving down a busy city street. My upper body/sternum/upper abdomen hit the steering wheel full force, my airbag did not deploy & seatbelt did not lock down in place immediately like it should have. Went by ambulance to hospital with sternal, ribs, & spinal injuries. I want to know why airbag did not deploy to protect me & why seatbelt did not lock down quickly enough so i would not hit steering wheel.
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