We found the following complaints for CHEVROLET CAPTIVA SPORT (2012)
Read complaints for CHEVROLET CAPTIVA SPORT (2012)
My husband was driving and the vehicle was in motions, he hit the breaks and came to a quick stop and the vehicle from behind bumped him at about 20 miles an hour. It set off the airbag dash light, but the airbags did not deploy. The dealership diagnosed a problem with the steering wheel canister or coil for the airbag, and a rear sensor in the bumper of the vehicle.i am wondering if this is related to the takata air bag recall.it has not had a car accident since we have owned it in 2017.i am unsure when this happened. It was in the last year.
Front passenger air bag light reading "off" with passenger (130lbs+). History of events that still have not corrected the problem: oct 3/14: wills chevrolet(grimsby 37,255km. Vehicle brought in, no codes found. Told nothing they can do unless they see it. Oct 16/14: legget chev(burlington) 38,734km. Replaced front passenger sensor module ***as of june18 this part has now been replaced a second time and the problem still persists*** dec 8/14: legget chev 42,541km. Replaced front passenger belt buckle apr 15/15: legget chev. Brought vehicle in for same issue, told i do not weigh enough (130lbs) and should maybe sit in the back seat, or i am not sitting in seat correctly. May 11/15: legget chev 53,055km. Same issue with passenger air bag light happend with my husband in the seat (200lbs). Replaced instrument cluster. Car was hit @ dealer. June 6/15: issue persists *i am pregnant and do not feel safe in this vehicle* .updated 07-16-15 updated 10/25/2017
Takata recall-i bought my 2012 chevrolet captiva ls in march 2013. On june 20, the car went on a trip to branson, mo.while driving on the highway, the ac started blowing dry vapor from the vents-no cold air. Also the light for the shifting gears p,n,r &d was not working. I took the car to the shop. No prob. Found. Then on july 6, 2014,the car went to wisconsin. I had the car n shop on july 2 before the trip to make sure that ac was working good. They said that they found no prob. While on the trip the ac did the same thing-no ac & the passenger air bag light was on to b serviced. Then on april 2016, the car went to florida. The ac acted up again- dry vapors from ac vents & no cool air. The driver looked under the hood & saw that the alum. Pipe to the ac had ice on it. The ac had frozen up. He also said that when driving the car on the highway, the rpms are higher than when the car is driven in town or within 30 min. On highway so the ac prob. Doesn't happen. The driver is a mechanic. I called the dealership on april 18, 2016 to make an appt. To get them to fix the ac. Also the dash light comes on to say service the air bag. Hopefully it will b fixed this time, the 3rd time! as of this date, i have no appt.
Driving along the "service airbag" light comes on. No other indicators of problem. 55,000 miles.
Was driving down the interstate when my airbag light came on.it stayed on for 8 miles then switched off.i was doing approx 68 mph when it came on, turned off when i slowed down at 50 for road construction.had just picked the vehicle up from the dealer that morning after having a rear axle boot/shaft something like that replaced under warranty.
After driving and parking, the vehicle at the store.the vehicle constantly looses all power and will not start and there are no warning signs.keys will lock in the ignition, remote start deprograms, the car has no power. Positive battery cable is extremely hot and second-degree burns are on hand when touched.replaced battery, positive battery cable, and 1 week later the problem started again.no problem with the starter, alternator. No loose wires and there is no electrical shortage.researched the problem on the internet and this appears to be a common problem with this type of vehicle.the battery will not charge from a jump.no power to the car and you are stranded for hours waiting for the positive battery cable to cool down. After hours of waiting the car starts up with no problem, but will do the same thing again when turned off.nothing is left on to drain the power from the car.this is happening constantly after driving.
When driving down street or even in a parked position the suv won't start. No lights, no audio. Cannot remove key. Unable to engage alarm. Radio on & off intermittently; triggered by using hazards, turn signals, hi-beams, cruise control.also, 'service traction control', 'abs', and a capital 'p' with wrench icon flicker intermittently in the dash panel. 'check engine' light appears periodically but eventually clears.suv has died simply driving in traffic with the above symptoms.all fuses in engine compartment and interior fuse panel are in tact. After wiggling the battery harness, suv will respond positively.
The check engine light came on and would not go off.after having it checked by a local certified mechanic, it went off but came back on days later.the car would not start and i could not get the key out of the switch.i called aaa and had it towed to victory chevrolet in charlotte, n.c.they kept the car for over one week and kept looking for something until they replaced most of my electrical parts.when i asked how much this would cost, i was asked if i had a price in mind.i said, "i don't want to pay thousands of dollars."he said, "you have a lot of problems."he continued to find more?? and began to tell me a number of things.three years ago, i had a trailer hitch installed and he tried to blame my problems on that.i have never used the hitch and have never had any trouble with the folks who installed it, as i have done business with them in the past.after a period of over one weeks time, the service man called me with a price for the repairs of almost 2500 dollars.i feel this was an excessive amount and feel that they were milking me for whatever they could get.the steering wheel would also lock up and not allow me to take the key from the ignition, causing me to have it towed earlier to the dealership.i feel robbed by the dealership and will never go back there for anything.i will find another kind of car for my personal and business life.i was happy with my captiva when i bought it and bragged about it to everyone but all of that has changed .we researched this car and found many complaints on your web-sight.why has this problem not been corrected or recalled?i have always been a chevrolet person, preferring them over others but will consider some other car in the future.is this your fault?i think so and hope you will correct the problem in the near future.
Key keeps getting stuck in the ignition 75% of the time i try to shift it off. It wont shut all the way off either. It just goes to acc. Seems like a very very common issue. This needs a recall and gm should have to pay for it.information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
Constantly loses power regardless of new batteries, battery cables, and many other repairs. Have been struggling with this for 4 years. Vehicle has been taken to chevy house multiple times but even they don't know what is happening. There is a lengthy forum i have followed with other captiva owners having the same problem without any luck. No recalls have been issued regardless of driver and passenger safety being put at risk time and time again and countless dollars spent on failed repairs.
Can not remove key when vehicle is in park most of the times now
Key will not go past accessory when trying to shut off. Took to dealer, it's an arm that is not engaging in shifter when placing in park.
Electrical problem. Will not start after turning off. 3rd time
Key sticks in ignition and will not come out when in park.at times car will not even shut off.ignition was replaced under warranty.less than 3,000 miles and it is doing it again.key will not come out of ignition unless you restart the car.have moved the shifter and steering wheel and pushed the key in as advised by dealership.still not working.also, stablitrack and traction control lights come on periodically while driving, causing the car to jump and buck.dealership advised to turn off traction control, but while the lights are on and the car is jerking, you cannot deactivate.dealership says it is an engine misfire problem but not significant enough to warrant taking car apart to fix.
1. After driving to any locations, for example, grocery stores, train station parking lot in my neighborhood, the key would not come out of the ignition, but shut down the engine. Then after 15-30 minutes, there is always a click, and once i turned the key , it starts the car suddenly. This has occurred twice the past few months, and my chevyl dealership had worked on this issue. Yet, it has startedcurring again the past 2 days 07/19/2020, after they worked on it since12/04/2019.2. There is also a jump surge when slowing down to stop when traffic is moving slowly, and as i tried to drive forward or when turning from a stop sign.
On wednesday, july 29, 2015 while driving home from work around 5:30 pm my charging system signal came on and my ac stopped working. I figured the charging system signal was an indication that my ac had broken and i resolved to schedule an appointment for repair. Ten (10) minutes after the charging system signal came on multiple signal lights on my dashboard started flashing and immediately my car lost all power and started decelerating. This occurred while i was driving seventy (70) miles per hour on the freeway during rush hour traffic. I was also in the far left lane of a four lane highway. By the grace of god i was able to steer my car to a ramp without being colliding with another car. After exiting the freeway i narrowly avoided colliding with a car that was in front of me and i swerved just barely avoiding rolling into a ditch. My car came to a halt along the side of an off-ramp where my it sat for nearly two (2) hours, just barely out of the reach of exiting trucks and cars, as i waited for aaa. I had my car towed to a hendrick chevrolet dealership where the mechanic determined that my alternator was broken and needed to be replaced. The fee was nine hundred fourteen dollars and ninety nine cents ($914.99). I asked the chevrolet dealership why this happened and if i could have done anything to prevent it. He told me that there was no way that a dealership could have detected that the alternator was going bad and that further commented that he was surprised to see that the alternator had gone bad when my car at its low mileage.
Intermittently the radio first cuts off, then panel lights come on (traction control, check engine lights) turn signal lights work, but no sound. You lose power to car and cannot even take the key out of the ignition. After some time, you can finally get the key out. Sometimes it's minutes, sometimes it's hours. This started happening a few weeks ago, happening few times a week. Now, it's happening daily, even few times a day.we found a chevy forum online and shockingly this is happening to 2012 captiva's. Why is this not a recall? this can be fatal to lose power to the car if we are on the highway and lose function of the vehicle
Serious electrical issues causes suv to shut down with little to no warning. All lights on dash light up, rpms go to 0 car shuts off. This has happened multiple times, car can't be steered away from traffic and the hazard lights are dead. Key can't be removed from ignition. Completely dead vehicle.new batteries, new alternators and multiple mechanics can't find the problem. Disconnect battery cables, recharge the battery and it runs for a few months. No one can tell us the issue and we are stuck with no recalls and lots of people have the same dangerous issue. Car is drivable today but to dangerous to put my family in anymore. Are they waiting for someone to die before a recall is issued?
Key sticks in ignition
Unable to remove key from ignition when vehicle is in park. It would stick in the auxiliary position.i could restart the engine but i could not turn the vehicle completely off. This started a couple of years ago and would happen randomly.over time it became more frequent before it finally wasnā€™t coming out at all.i would have to leave my key in the car and disconnect the battery after use.i took it to the dealership and had the transmission control shifter replaced. Following this repair i started having more electrical issues.my radio would cut out and the traction control light would flash on.i went to gm service and they could find nothing.the issue continiued and only got worse.i was driving on the highway and lost acceleration to my vehicle in heavy traffic.i had to slide on to the shoulder and was able to restart the car and get going again to only have it happen again 30 min later.i was on an uphill and had no where safe to pull over.my car would surge ahead, lose momentum and repeat until i was finally able to get safely to the side of the road.i had a number of lights flash on during this episodeā€¦ check engine, service stabilizer, air bag and others.the check engine stayed on for 2 days.i was also unable to remove the key again but this time i also couldnā€™t turn the engine back on again. I thought that i was going to be stuck on the side of the highway.after sitting for a while i was able to start the car and make it home.luckily! since then i have continued to have regular problems with the radio and was stuck again in a parking lot unable to reove my key.something serious is happening but again my mechanic cannot find a thing wrong and they have just had the car for 2 days. I see that other owners are having similar issues.this needs to be attended to before something serious happens to someone.
Stalled, slowed speed, stopped. Will not restart
The ignition switch won't turn completely off and the keys won't come out of the ignition. Gm published a letter and has fixed other vehicles, butsome have had to pay the cost. This is a know problem, it can be a safety issue and should have been fixed by the manufacturer. This problem has been ongoing for mare than a year.
Kills on highway and in town, check engine light comes on then off in about 15-30 minutes, key gets stuck in ignition when it do kills, no indicator, radio switches like it's going crazy sometimes for days and weeks, i've brought 3 batteries since march 10,2017 when i started financing this vehicle, replaced battery cables and problem still reoccurring, alternator replaced and now giving trouble again, something is making the pressure in my tires extremely low, lights dim, dashboard lights flickering, inside lights comes on sometimes, sometimes everything shuts down on this vehicle, when stationary vehicle idles and hesitant, when in motion vehicle idiles, hesitant, misses, and kills. On the highway the vehicle idles, missed, shaky, hesitant , and kills with no indication very dangerous afraid my kids and i will lose our life in this vehicle!!! when turning vehicle is hesitant, sometimes lose power, and misses. Sometimes the vehicle will not go pass 45 mph, when taking off vehicle idles so high and loud, radio displays device not supported when nothing is plugged up, radio time always resets when the vehicle looses power, popping sound under the hood when the key is stuck in ignition when vehicle looses all power, this vehicle is not dependable and very dangerous!!! all these defects are reoccurring issues and problems. This is scary, i would've never financed this vehicle, never, however i don't understand how my dealer ship allowed this piece of crap at their yard and allowed me to get this vehicle, i've spent my entire savings repairing things on this vehicle only for it reoccur in no time, i need a dependable vehicle is all i'm asking, if i don't work my family won't eat, then we'll end up homeless please help!!! recall this dangerous vehicle and/or make it right!!!
Numerous complaints have been filed on the internet and to the nhtsa concerning the electrical system on this vehicle.include engine not starting when turn key, car starts to have flashing instrument panel light and then dying, failure to be able to remove the key when turning off the ignition, most dangerous issue is the electrical system failing when on the highway, dealers seem to be aware of the problem but have not corrected problem which is probably related to positive and negative battery cables and "battery current sensor".this is a dangerous vehicle because of the uncertainty of the electrical failure to some time start or failing while driving down the highway.it certainly seems that there have been sufficient issues by any number captiva owners to warrant a recall and have dealers correct the electrical problems before one is seriously injured.
Unable to remove key from ignition when vehicle is in park.this is happening more and more frequently.started about 6 months ago.normally you have to run through the gears several times or restart.now it's much harder and takes longer to get the key out.also, there are significant electrical issues.we replaced a the battery and still have the following problems:the parking brake light turns on, stability-track light comes on, a/c goes on and off and blinkers, cruise and all dash lights come on and off while driving, as well as radio going on and off.when this got really bad, i unhooked the battery and then everything seemed to reset and was good for about 2 weeks but started again.this started about 2 months ago but the battery was replaced about 6 months ago
Stability control and break warning constantly..had breaks completely repaired twice within the 2 years of purchasing it..only has 160,000 miles.lighting wiring issue malfunction.
Cannot remove key when car is turned off.have to restart the car to get the key out.i see this in an ongoing problem with chevrolets of all models!
I have brought my vehicle to chevy and was advised that they could not find anything wrong with the traction control or the radio.every so often the traction control light comes on and states that the traction control needs to be serviced when the vehicle is running idle for more than 30 seconds.when that comes on the radio blinks on and off.in the past two weeks, the vehicle had to get jumped twice. Took the vehicle to get tested at two different auto stores and was advised after they tested the battery that the battery was good.i am frustrated that they cannot find anything wrong with it yet it is on the brink of not working every other day.in addition, the vehicle was not able to go up a small hill after the snow had fallen.i had to get assistance.this is not acceptable.
I had the exact same electrical problem as the previous person. Twice now, while driving the check engine light would flash, the radio would go dead and all kinds of lights on the dash would come on. Car made it to the house. Could not take the key out of the ignition. Would not restart. After about 15 / 20 mins, the car would start and everything would be fine. Took it to the dealer both times, but they looked at me as if i were crazy. They kept car for a week at a time and could not replicate the issue. They were as stumped as me. Good to hear that my car isn't the only one to do this. It's been several months since the last incident. Hopefully it has gone away.
Key gets stuck and warning lights come on and go .if you can get car to turn off it won'tstart back up.
Having numerous issues. The first one is that the ignition when switched to off will not release the key. Does not turn all the way to release the key out. Had it swapped out and still having the same issue. Something about a release inside the colum that will not fully disengagesecond issue is that my car will lock as well as unlock its self.the car can be off and parked or even driving down the road. The hatch release as well will disengage and pop open. Took it to shops and dealers.
I bought the suv in dec. 2013.since this time the car has failed to start twice.each time i had the battery boost and the car started. I have taken the truck into munday cheverlot. Chevy auto mechanics and others have said my battery is good and they do not know why this is happening.when the suv does not start i cannot remove the key.i try to start the cars and nothing happens.when this happens i try to remove the key and i cannot.the key switch will not go to the lock position therefore i cannot remove the key.the representative at the dealership told me i am not suppose to be able to remove the key in this type of situation.no one can tell me why or what to do when this problem occurs.
Car has random times it wont start.now my radio cuts in and out while driving. Lights flash on and off
Sometimes when driving all the electrical equipment will turn off for a brief moment. When this happens all the warning lights come on. Sometimes prior to this happening the dashboard lights will begin to flicker. Service lights such as "service traction control" will come on then go off, the headlights would noticably flicker and the cruise control would randomly turn off. This problem has not been replicated by the independent garage it was taken too however there were codes for low and high voltages thrown. The garage couldn't find anything wrong with it but replaced the battery and alternator. The problem went away for a brief period of time but will randomly come back from time to time. The key also would sometimes get in the ignition and this progressed untill the key became fully stuck and the car had to be serviced. Many others have these same complaints.
Transitioning from low beam to high beam would cause radio and associated controls/display to go out completely.fix parking break and onboard emissions control sensor light would go on/off intermittently over the course of several weeks, sometimes flickering and other times staying on for a few hours.drove car 1.5 hrs and turned off for 1/2 hr, when came back it was completely dead and key stuck in ignition. Few min later it started.when brought to dealership they said there were 18 error codes and 1 was for ecm and 1 for bcm.they replaced both.car was 100% fine for 6 days.then, cruise control would turn off when a call came in over bluetooth, radio and associated controls and display would go out completely when using turn signal.various dash panel lights would come on signifying repairs needed. A couple times car wouldn't start - was 100% dead - couldn't even open trunk, door locks or get lights to come on.key would be stuck in the on position and i couldn't get it out.after about 45 min power randomly turned on.
While driving - or even sitting still - radio and clock will shut off, "service stabilitrack light" illuminates on dash with the message showing on the message center dash display. After 5 seconds or so, it disappears; however occurs often but no consistent (sometimes none at all, some times 4 or so times in a 20mi drive). Battery and alternator are brand new (alternator has been replaced twice in 12 months). Vehicle is owned outright and has 142,000+ miles.
Many times this car has just died while driving. Oil and battery are good. I have had to replace the timing chain. There now seems to be a problem with a fuel pump or sensor causing the car to die.i am taking it to a mechanic this week. Currently not driveable. I have had so many problems out of this car. Great look on the outside, but it being a general motors car, there are many problems. I think they should have had a recall on this by now. I will do my best to file complaints and submit proof. Not a durable car.
Radio would turn off while driving, service traction control message light and chimes,would go off, interior lights would dim out vehicle would turn over but not start, engine light would not stay on however was able to get auto store to pull codes when light was on. Talked to dealership advised to replace battery and key fob as one code had to do with vehicle thinking wrong key was used. Replaced battery and key fobs seemed to be okay for 2 months. Then today when putting window down to get mail the radio turned off, service traction controls lights started going off again and air blower cut out (this started when vehicle put in park) noticed when this was happening that voltage on battery would drop. Took to auto store and they checked battery it was fine. But when air was on and window would be put down it would recreate the same problem (vehicle was in park). Auto store said could be a short. After testing battery and it was good the air was turned off and window being put down would not cause any issues. Only seems to happen when air was on. There seems to be numerous complaints regarding these types off electrical occurrencesfor this vehicle type. Also have had issues with a surge when driving vehicle. Had different transmission and power train things looked at from dealership that have improved it but not fully corrected. Seems to have gotten even a little better after battery replaced but still occurs to the point where it shifts hard and surges the car forward.
Was driving down the interstate when my airbag light came on.it stayed on for 8 miles then switched off.i was doing approx 68 mph when it came on, turned off when i slowed down at 50 for road construction.had just picked the vehicle up from the dealer that morning after having a rear axle boot/shaft something like that replaced under warranty.
Initially the issue presented as occasional brake light outage. Soon after this became permanent. It also affects the reverse lights making it so that they're always on, even when the car isn't running. In addition, the interior lights (doors and overhead) are affected and no longer work. The backup camera had to be removed because the wiring burnt out. Also the sunroof has stopped working. Front right turn signal also stopped working. It was no longer safe to drive around mid-march 2019. I had to take it in to a auto electric specialist twice starting april 2019. After all this, it was diagnosed as needing a new harness and total rewire and a body control module and programming. Apparently this is a common issue with this vehicle and i was told i would be better off cutting my losses and starting over with a different car. Dates are approximate.
My 2012 chevrolet captiva sport 2ls ignition switch is faulty. The key is not removable from ignition to turn vehical off, it stops in the accessory position.safty concern is that the vehicle could possibly become disabled not allowing restart of engine or inability for the key to be removed causing the vehicle to be shifted form park into gear.it would also drain the power from the battery not allowing it to be restarted.dealership is stating that there was to much weight on the key ring,only the factory key fob is on the key ring.
Intermittent electrical issues while in motion or at stopped-when using the turn signal, cruise control, and brakes the electrical panel (including radio, dash lights, and signals turn off for 3-5 seconds. After taking the captiva to a chevrolet garage, they suspect the positive and negative battery cables are to blame due to many complaints on this vehicle type. I have not yet proceeded with repairs at this time. This has been occurring since approximately april 2015.
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. While driving 40 mph, the parking brake light continued to activate and the cruise control cut off when the blinker was activated, which disengaged the cruise control and slowed down the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 36,000.
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. The contact stated that when the vehicle was first purchased the key failed to operate as designed. Additionally, with the vehicle stopped and the gear shifter in the park position, the vehicle continued moving. The contact shifted the vehicle into reverse and activated the parking brake to stop the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to bowser chevrolet of monroeville (1600 golden mile hwy, monroeville, pa 15146) to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the gear shifter need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 80,000.
Initially the issue presented as occasional brake light outage. Soon after this became permanent. It also affects the reverse lights making it so that they're always on, even when the car isn't running. In addition, the interior lights (doors and overhead) are affected and no longer work. The backup camera had to be removed because the wiring burnt out. Also the sunroof has stopped working. Front right turn signal also stopped working. It was no longer safe to drive around mid-march 2019. I had to take it in to a auto electric specialist twice starting april 2019. After all this, it was diagnosed as needing a new harness and total rewire and a body control module and programming. Apparently this is a common issue with this vehicle and i was told i would be better off cutting my losses and starting over with a different car. Dates are approximate.
When driving down street or even in a parked position the suv won't start. No lights, no audio. Cannot remove key. Unable to engage alarm. Radio on & off intermittently; triggered by using hazards, turn signals, hi-beams, cruise control.also, 'service traction control', 'abs', and a capital 'p' with wrench icon flicker intermittently in the dash panel. 'check engine' light appears periodically but eventually clears.suv has died simply driving in traffic with the above symptoms.all fuses in engine compartment and interior fuse panel are in tact. After wiggling the battery harness, suv will respond positively.
After driving and parking, the vehicle at the store.the vehicle constantly looses all power and will not start and there are no warning signs.keys will lock in the ignition, remote start deprograms, the car has no power. Positive battery cable is extremely hot and second-degree burns are on hand when touched.replaced battery, positive battery cable, and 1 week later the problem started again.no problem with the starter, alternator. No loose wires and there is no electrical shortage.researched the problem on the internet and this appears to be a common problem with this type of vehicle.the battery will not charge from a jump.no power to the car and you are stranded for hours waiting for the positive battery cable to cool down. After hours of waiting the car starts up with no problem, but will do the same thing again when turned off.nothing is left on to drain the power from the car.this is happening constantly after driving.
Loss of power during steering - steering not stable - stall of engine when turning a curve. Caused minor vehicle accident on interstate
While driving - or even sitting still - radio and clock will shut off, "service stabilitrack light" illuminates on dash with the message showing on the message center dash display. After 5 seconds or so, it disappears; however occurs often but no consistent (sometimes none at all, some times 4 or so times in a 20mi drive). Battery and alternator are brand new (alternator has been replaced twice in 12 months). Vehicle is owned outright and has 142,000+ miles.
Electrical problem. Will not start after turning off. 3rd time
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. While driving various speeds, the traction control and service stability track indicators illuminated. The dealer could not diagnose the cause of the failure. The manufacturer was not notified. The vin was unavailable. The approximate failure mileage was 28,000.
Car has random times it wont start.now my radio cuts in and out while driving. Lights flash on and off
Key sticks in ignition and will not come out when in park.at times car will not even shut off.ignition was replaced under warranty.less than 3,000 miles and it is doing it again.key will not come out of ignition unless you restart the car.have moved the shifter and steering wheel and pushed the key in as advised by dealership.still not working.also, stablitrack and traction control lights come on periodically while driving, causing the car to jump and buck.dealership advised to turn off traction control, but while the lights are on and the car is jerking, you cannot deactivate.dealership says it is an engine misfire problem but not significant enough to warrant taking car apart to fix.
Serious electrical issues causes suv to shut down with little to no warning. All lights on dash light up, rpms go to 0 car shuts off. This has happened multiple times, car can't be steered away from traffic and the hazard lights are dead. Key can't be removed from ignition. Completely dead vehicle.new batteries, new alternators and multiple mechanics can't find the problem. Disconnect battery cables, recharge the battery and it runs for a few months. No one can tell us the issue and we are stuck with no recalls and lots of people have the same dangerous issue. Car is drivable today but to dangerous to put my family in anymore. Are they waiting for someone to die before a recall is issued?
Key gets stuck and warning lights come on and go .if you can get car to turn off it won'tstart back up.
Unable to remove key from ignition when vehicle is in park.this is happening more and more frequently.started about 6 months ago.normally you have to run through the gears several times or restart.now it's much harder and takes longer to get the key out.also, there are significant electrical issues.we replaced a the battery and still have the following problems:the parking brake light turns on, stability-track light comes on, a/c goes on and off and blinkers, cruise and all dash lights come on and off while driving, as well as radio going on and off.when this got really bad, i unhooked the battery and then everything seemed to reset and was good for about 2 weeks but started again.this started about 2 months ago but the battery was replaced about 6 months ago
Stalled, slowed speed, stopped. Will not restart
The contact owns 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. The contact stated that the steering wheel vibrated abnormally whenever the vehicle exceeded 60 mph. Additionally, the check engine warning light was illuminated constantly. Stew hansen hyundai (11344 hickman rd, clive, ia 50325, 888-426-6396) was contacted and stated that the steering wheel sensor module needed to be replaced at a cost of $1,000. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken back to the dealer on four other occasions where the camshaft was also replaced. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 54,500.
Oil consumption
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. While driving 5 mph, the contact heard an abnormal noise and the vehicle seized. The contact stated that the check engine warning indicator illuminated. The vehicle was taken to mobile chevrolet (located at 2900 government blvd, mobile, al 36606, (251) 545-4291), but the failure could not be duplicated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the engine was replaced. The manufacturer was not notified. The failure mileage was 70,000.
While driving - or even sitting still - radio and clock will shut off, "service stabilitrack light" illuminates on dash with the message showing on the message center dash display. After 5 seconds or so, it disappears; however occurs often but no consistent (sometimes none at all, some times 4 or so times in a 20mi drive). Battery and alternator are brand new (alternator has been replaced twice in 12 months). Vehicle is owned outright and has 142,000+ miles.
Transitioning from low beam to high beam would cause radio and associated controls/display to go out completely.fix parking break and onboard emissions control sensor light would go on/off intermittently over the course of several weeks, sometimes flickering and other times staying on for a few hours.drove car 1.5 hrs and turned off for 1/2 hr, when came back it was completely dead and key stuck in ignition. Few min later it started.when brought to dealership they said there were 18 error codes and 1 was for ecm and 1 for bcm.they replaced both.car was 100% fine for 6 days.then, cruise control would turn off when a call came in over bluetooth, radio and associated controls and display would go out completely when using turn signal.various dash panel lights would come on signifying repairs needed. A couple times car wouldn't start - was 100% dead - couldn't even open trunk, door locks or get lights to come on.key would be stuck in the on position and i couldn't get it out.after about 45 min power randomly turned on.
The car has leakage and coolant problems. The engine overheats after a little while of driving the vehicle.
Many times this car has just died while driving. Oil and battery are good. I have had to replace the timing chain. There now seems to be a problem with a fuel pump or sensor causing the car to die.i am taking it to a mechanic this week. Currently not driveable. I have had so many problems out of this car. Great look on the outside, but it being a general motors car, there are many problems. I think they should have had a recall on this by now. I will do my best to file complaints and submit proof. Not a durable car.
1. After driving to any locations, for example, grocery stores, train station parking lot in my neighborhood, the key would not come out of the ignition, but shut down the engine. Then after 15-30 minutes, there is always a click, and once i turned the key , it starts the car suddenly. This has occurred twice the past few months, and my chevyl dealership had worked on this issue. Yet, it has startedcurring again the past 2 days 07/19/2020, after they worked on it since12/04/2019.2. There is also a jump surge when slowing down to stop when traffic is moving slowly, and as i tried to drive forward or when turning from a stop sign.
Stopped running suddenly.i had driven this vehicle and it was running fine. Shut it off came back in about 4 hours and it would not start.had it towed to garage for repairs...timing belt broken at approx 100,000 mile.
Stability control and break warning constantly..had breaks completely repaired twice within the 2 years of purchasing it..only has 160,000 miles.lighting wiring issue malfunction.
A little over 93000 miles and the engine blows. Oil change was completed less then 200 miles before
After driving and parking, the vehicle at the store.the vehicle constantly looses all power and will not start and there are no warning signs.keys will lock in the ignition, remote start deprograms, the car has no power. Positive battery cable is extremely hot and second-degree burns are on hand when touched.replaced battery, positive battery cable, and 1 week later the problem started again.no problem with the starter, alternator. No loose wires and there is no electrical shortage.researched the problem on the internet and this appears to be a common problem with this type of vehicle.the battery will not charge from a jump.no power to the car and you are stranded for hours waiting for the positive battery cable to cool down. After hours of waiting the car starts up with no problem, but will do the same thing again when turned off.nothing is left on to drain the power from the car.this is happening constantly after driving.
On 2/20/19 the check engine light came on and car was idling rough and making a chugging sound. Mileage on car at this point was 108,270. Car was taken to auto zone where the code p0016 was pulled referencing a camshaft issue according to the employee. When i checked the oil, it showed below the minimum level and so i put 1 qt. Of oil per the owner's manual. After i added 1 qt. Of oil, car seemed to run much more smoothly. I scheduled an appointment to get the oil changed. Oil was changed at mileage 108832. On 5/1/19 car was idling rough and making chugging sound. Checked oil level and found that it was bone dry on the stick and i added 1 qt of oil per the owner's manual. Exhibiting same symptoms of the issue referenced on tsb # 13-06-01-003h, same issue i had with my 2012 equinox which has the same type of engine as this captiva (2.4l ecotec). Mileage was 111,215 when this occurred. I then took my car in to a gm dealer to have oil changed and requested an oil consumption test and they changed the oil/filter at mileage 111,252. Over the next year we changed the oil at 115,874 miles, 118,744 miles, 122,106 miles. There were a handful of times where i had to add 1 qt. Of oil to the car per the owner's manual because it became low on oil. Then on 6/10/20 the car died in traffic and it was able to be started again. It was driven less than 5 miles to a firestone where 3 qt of oil had to be added as engine was bone dry. Oil was changed next day at 125,919 miles. Then on 7/9/20 the car died on the road and would not start again. Had the car towed to a firestone where the technician said that metal shavings were found in the engine oil and it was believed to be from timing chain issue. Low engine oil caused from oil consumption issue can cause those parts to wear and metal shavings contaminate engine oil. New engine is needed, mileage 126,825.
Gm has a campaign to fix this problem but refused mine.basically oil is bypassed in large volume to the engine intake because the passages are undersized for pcv system.this is special coverage adjustment 14882 by gm. Pcv valve replaced and passages enlarged
Radio would turn off while driving, service traction control message light and chimes,would go off, interior lights would dim out vehicle would turn over but not start, engine light would not stay on however was able to get auto store to pull codes when light was on. Talked to dealership advised to replace battery and key fob as one code had to do with vehicle thinking wrong key was used. Replaced battery and key fobs seemed to be okay for 2 months. Then today when putting window down to get mail the radio turned off, service traction controls lights started going off again and air blower cut out (this started when vehicle put in park) noticed when this was happening that voltage on battery would drop. Took to auto store and they checked battery it was fine. But when air was on and window would be put down it would recreate the same problem (vehicle was in park). Auto store said could be a short. After testing battery and it was good the air was turned off and window being put down would not cause any issues. Only seems to happen when air was on. There seems to be numerous complaints regarding these types off electrical occurrencesfor this vehicle type. Also have had issues with a surge when driving vehicle. Had different transmission and power train things looked at from dealership that have improved it but not fully corrected. Seems to have gotten even a little better after battery replaced but still occurs to the point where it shifts hard and surges the car forward.
Kills on highway and in town, check engine light comes on then off in about 15-30 minutes, key gets stuck in ignition when it do kills, no indicator, radio switches like it's going crazy sometimes for days and weeks, i've brought 3 batteries since march 10,2017 when i started financing this vehicle, replaced battery cables and problem still reoccurring, alternator replaced and now giving trouble again, something is making the pressure in my tires extremely low, lights dim, dashboard lights flickering, inside lights comes on sometimes, sometimes everything shuts down on this vehicle, when stationary vehicle idles and hesitant, when in motion vehicle idiles, hesitant, misses, and kills. On the highway the vehicle idles, missed, shaky, hesitant , and kills with no indication very dangerous afraid my kids and i will lose our life in this vehicle!!! when turning vehicle is hesitant, sometimes lose power, and misses. Sometimes the vehicle will not go pass 45 mph, when taking off vehicle idles so high and loud, radio displays device not supported when nothing is plugged up, radio time always resets when the vehicle looses power, popping sound under the hood when the key is stuck in ignition when vehicle looses all power, this vehicle is not dependable and very dangerous!!! all these defects are reoccurring issues and problems. This is scary, i would've never financed this vehicle, never, however i don't understand how my dealer ship allowed this piece of crap at their yard and allowed me to get this vehicle, i've spent my entire savings repairing things on this vehicle only for it reoccur in no time, i need a dependable vehicle is all i'm asking, if i don't work my family won't eat, then we'll end up homeless please help!!! recall this dangerous vehicle and/or make it right!!!
Radio would turn off while driving, service traction control message light and chimes,would go off, interior lights would dim out vehicle would turn over but not start, engine light would not stay on however was able to get auto store to pull codes when light was on. Talked to dealership advised to replace battery and key fob as one code had to do with vehicle thinking wrong key was used. Replaced battery and key fobs seemed to be okay for 2 months. Then today when putting window down to get mail the radio turned off, service traction controls lights started going off again and air blower cut out (this started when vehicle put in park) noticed when this was happening that voltage on battery would drop. Took to auto store and they checked battery it was fine. But when air was on and window would be put down it would recreate the same problem (vehicle was in park). Auto store said could be a short. After testing battery and it was good the air was turned off and window being put down would not cause any issues. Only seems to happen when air was on. There seems to be numerous complaints regarding these types off electrical occurrencesfor this vehicle type. Also have had issues with a surge when driving vehicle. Had different transmission and power train things looked at from dealership that have improved it but not fully corrected. Seems to have gotten even a little better after battery replaced but still occurs to the point where it shifts hard and surges the car forward.
Electrical problem. Will not start after turning off. 3rd time
Numerous complaints have been filed on the internet and to the nhtsa concerning the electrical system on this vehicle.include engine not starting when turn key, car starts to have flashing instrument panel light and then dying, failure to be able to remove the key when turning off the ignition, most dangerous issue is the electrical system failing when on the highway, dealers seem to be aware of the problem but have not corrected problem which is probably related to positive and negative battery cables and "battery current sensor".this is a dangerous vehicle because of the uncertainty of the electrical failure to some time start or failing while driving down the highway.it certainly seems that there have been sufficient issues by any number captiva owners to warrant a recall and have dealers correct the electrical problems before one is seriously injured.
Initially the issue presented as occasional brake light outage. Soon after this became permanent. It also affects the reverse lights making it so that they're always on, even when the car isn't running. In addition, the interior lights (doors and overhead) are affected and no longer work. The backup camera had to be removed because the wiring burnt out. Also the sunroof has stopped working. Front right turn signal also stopped working. It was no longer safe to drive around mid-march 2019. I had to take it in to a auto electric specialist twice starting april 2019. After all this, it was diagnosed as needing a new harness and total rewire and a body control module and programming. Apparently this is a common issue with this vehicle and i was told i would be better off cutting my losses and starting over with a different car. Dates are approximate.
Gm has a campaign to fix this problem but refused mine.basically oil is bypassed in large volume to the engine intake because the passages are undersized for pcv system.this is special coverage adjustment 14882 by gm. Pcv valve replaced and passages enlarged
Kills on highway and in town, check engine light comes on then off in about 15-30 minutes, key gets stuck in ignition when it do kills, no indicator, radio switches like it's going crazy sometimes for days and weeks, i've brought 3 batteries since march 10,2017 when i started financing this vehicle, replaced battery cables and problem still reoccurring, alternator replaced and now giving trouble again, something is making the pressure in my tires extremely low, lights dim, dashboard lights flickering, inside lights comes on sometimes, sometimes everything shuts down on this vehicle, when stationary vehicle idles and hesitant, when in motion vehicle idiles, hesitant, misses, and kills. On the highway the vehicle idles, missed, shaky, hesitant , and kills with no indication very dangerous afraid my kids and i will lose our life in this vehicle!!! when turning vehicle is hesitant, sometimes lose power, and misses. Sometimes the vehicle will not go pass 45 mph, when taking off vehicle idles so high and loud, radio displays device not supported when nothing is plugged up, radio time always resets when the vehicle looses power, popping sound under the hood when the key is stuck in ignition when vehicle looses all power, this vehicle is not dependable and very dangerous!!! all these defects are reoccurring issues and problems. This is scary, i would've never financed this vehicle, never, however i don't understand how my dealer ship allowed this piece of crap at their yard and allowed me to get this vehicle, i've spent my entire savings repairing things on this vehicle only for it reoccur in no time, i need a dependable vehicle is all i'm asking, if i don't work my family won't eat, then we'll end up homeless please help!!! recall this dangerous vehicle and/or make it right!!!
Many times this car has just died while driving. Oil and battery are good. I have had to replace the timing chain. There now seems to be a problem with a fuel pump or sensor causing the car to die.i am taking it to a mechanic this week. Currently not driveable. I have had so many problems out of this car. Great look on the outside, but it being a general motors car, there are many problems. I think they should have had a recall on this by now. I will do my best to file complaints and submit proof. Not a durable car.
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. While driving 40 mph, the parking brake light continued to activate and the cruise control cut off when the blinker was activated, which disengaged the cruise control and slowed down the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 36,000.
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. The contact stated that when the vehicle was first purchased the key failed to operate as designed. Additionally, with the vehicle stopped and the gear shifter in the park position, the vehicle continued moving. The contact shifted the vehicle into reverse and activated the parking brake to stop the vehicle. The vehicle was taken to bowser chevrolet of monroeville (1600 golden mile hwy, monroeville, pa 15146) to be diagnosed. The contact was informed that the gear shifter need to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 80,000.
Gm has a campaign to fix this problem but refused mine.basically oil is bypassed in large volume to the engine intake because the passages are undersized for pcv system.this is special coverage adjustment 14882 by gm. Pcv valve replaced and passages enlarged
Approximately a year ago the front main seals on the car went bad during cold weather. Once again we have had negative temperatures thatthis time made the rear main seals go bad in this car. The manufacture warranty runs out 1/29/2018 i purchased the car on 1/29/2013 me being the second owner that is not available to me. I purchased what was to be an extended mechanical warranty at the time of purchase, and to my disappointment the dealership has informed me that this is a gap warranty which is absolutely useless to me that i would not have purchased. This problem being cold weather related your have recalled several in the colder northern states. I am asking that you please consider this to be recalled in my state as well. -15 and -8 is a very wet cold for this are causing condensation on the seals causing them to go bad should not be my fault but a manufacture fault. I would appreciate all consideration for this. For this to be done is a $1,439.00 dollar value, for a single mother with no other income is very difficult and a hardship to manage.so i'm asking for your help in this matter.
The outer finish panel broke and now the seat doesn't move to ajustso it's very hard to get in and out.
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. The contacts stated that when the contact released the emergency brakes, the warning lights for the parking brake, service parking brake, abs, and service traction control indicator illuminated intermittently. The vehicle was taken to the dealer on two separate occasions. Both times the dealer was unable to duplicate the failure. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The vehicle was not repaired. The failure mileage was 23,862.
Stability control and break warning constantly..had breaks completely repaired twice within the 2 years of purchasing it..only has 160,000 miles.lighting wiring issue malfunction.
I have brought my vehicle to chevy and was advised that they could not find anything wrong with the traction control or the radio.every so often the traction control light comes on and states that the traction control needs to be serviced when the vehicle is running idle for more than 30 seconds.when that comes on the radio blinks on and off.in the past two weeks, the vehicle had to get jumped twice. Took the vehicle to get tested at two different auto stores and was advised after they tested the battery that the battery was good.i am frustrated that they cannot find anything wrong with it yet it is on the brink of not working every other day.in addition, the vehicle was not able to go up a small hill after the snow had fallen.i had to get assistance.this is not acceptable.
Brake caliper locked up and caught on fire causing the car to burn to the car to burn to the ground.
Once you turn off the vehicle the key stays in acc and does not come out of steering wheel columb.so you have to unplug battery if you are out of the vehicle for along time or your battery will go dead.
My key keeps getting stuck in the ignition and won't come . When you turn the key to take it out. It won't turn all the way to the lock option and pull out. This has happened more than once
Loss of power during steering - steering not stable - stall of engine when turning a curve. Caused minor vehicle accident on interstate
Key gets locked in the ignition. Always not sometimes all the time. Just purchased thisvehicle is parked and cant drive it without leaving the key inside
The contact owns 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. The contact stated that the steering wheel vibrated abnormally whenever the vehicle exceeded 60 mph. Additionally, the check engine warning light was illuminated constantly. Stew hansen hyundai (11344 hickman rd, clive, ia 50325, 888-426-6396) was contacted and stated that the steering wheel sensor module needed to be replaced at a cost of $1,000. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken back to the dealer on four other occasions where the camshaft was also replaced. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 54,500.
Key sticks in ignition and will not come out when in park. At times car will not even shut off. . key will not come out of ignition unless you restart the car. Have moved the shifter and steering wheel and pushed the key in as advised by dealership. Still no
Stalled, slowed speed, stopped. Will not restart
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. While driving various speeds, the traction control and service stability track indicators illuminated. The dealer could not diagnose the cause of the failure. The manufacturer was not notified. The vin was unavailable. The approximate failure mileage was 28,000.
Unable to remove key from ignition when vehicle is in park.this is happening more and more frequently.started about 6 months ago.normally you have to run through the gears several times or restart.now it's much harder and takes longer to get the key out.also, there are significant electrical issues.we replaced a the battery and still have the following problems:the parking brake light turns on, stability-track light comes on, a/c goes on and off and blinkers, cruise and all dash lights come on and off while driving, as well as radio going on and off.when this got really bad, i unhooked the battery and then everything seemed to reset and was good for about 2 weeks but started again.this started about 2 months ago but the battery was replaced about 6 months ago
Key gets stuck in ignition after put in park. Have to restart and move gear shifts up and down then back to park. If this don't releqse key i have to leave it and then have dead battery.
Key gets stuck and warning lights come on and go .if you can get car to turn off it won'tstart back up.
Takata recall-i bought my 2012 chevrolet captiva ls in march 2013. On june 20, the car went on a trip to branson, mo.while driving on the highway, the ac started blowing dry vapor from the vents-no cold air. Also the light for the shifting gears p,n,r &d was not working. I took the car to the shop. No prob. Found. Then on july 6, 2014,the car went to wisconsin. I had the car n shop on july 2 before the trip to make sure that ac was working good. They said that they found no prob. While on the trip the ac did the same thing-no ac & the passenger air bag light was on to b serviced. Then on april 2016, the car went to florida. The ac acted up again- dry vapors from ac vents & no cool air. The driver looked under the hood & saw that the alum. Pipe to the ac had ice on it. The ac had frozen up. He also said that when driving the car on the highway, the rpms are higher than when the car is driven in town or within 30 min. On highway so the ac prob. Doesn't happen. The driver is a mechanic. I called the dealership on april 18, 2016 to make an appt. To get them to fix the ac. Also the dash light comes on to say service the air bag. Hopefully it will b fixed this time, the 3rd time! as of this date, i have no appt.
Key remains locked in the tumbler in the off position. This also drains the battery.
Key has gotten stuck in ignition multiple times. Have had to disconnect battery as the car was stuck in accessory, and the battery was still being drained. Have not found any solution to the problem. Tried different keys, moving steering wheel etc. It's very frustrating as we have only had the car for 6 months. This started about 2-3 months ago and the car was at around 82k miles
My transmission is slipping and something is crack1
Unable to remove key from ignition when vehicle is in park. It would stick in the auxiliary position.i could restart the engine but i could not turn the vehicle completely off. This started a couple of years ago and would happen randomly.over time it became more frequent before it finally wasnā€™t coming out at all.i would have to leave my key in the car and disconnect the battery after use.i took it to the dealership and had the transmission control shifter replaced. Following this repair i started having more electrical issues.my radio would cut out and the traction control light would flash on.i went to gm service and they could find nothing.the issue continiued and only got worse.i was driving on the highway and lost acceleration to my vehicle in heavy traffic.i had to slide on to the shoulder and was able to restart the car and get going again to only have it happen again 30 min later.i was on an uphill and had no where safe to pull over.my car would surge ahead, lose momentum and repeat until i was finally able to get safely to the side of the road.i had a number of lights flash on during this episodeā€¦ check engine, service stabilizer, air bag and others.the check engine stayed on for 2 days.i was also unable to remove the key again but this time i also couldnā€™t turn the engine back on again. I thought that i was going to be stuck on the side of the highway.after sitting for a while i was able to start the car and make it home.luckily! since then i have continued to have regular problems with the radio and was stuck again in a parking lot unable to reove my key.something serious is happening but again my mechanic cannot find a thing wrong and they have just had the car for 2 days. I see that other owners are having similar issues.this needs to be attended to before something serious happens to someone.
The key won't come out of the ignition 3/4 of the time.had gear shift replaced a year ago and fixed problem.started back up months ago and the chevy dealer won't replace without another $800.00.took it for other opinions and everyone says gear shift. Power stays on when key is struck so can't just leave it.have to move gear shift back and forth, restart, move gear shift again and keep repeating till key comes out.up to 8 times, so far.
The key continually gotten stuck.
Key keeps getting stuck in the ignition 75% of the time i try to shift it off. It wont shut all the way off either. It just goes to acc. Seems like a very very common issue. This needs a recall and gm should have to pay for it.information redacted pursuant to the freedom of information act (foia), 5 u.s.c. 552(b)(6).
Loss of power during steering - steering not stable - stall of engine when turning a curve. Caused minor vehicle accident on interstate
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. While driving 40 mph, the parking brake light continued to activate and the cruise control cut off when the blinker was activated, which disengaged the cruise control and slowed down the vehicle. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The failure mileage was 36,000.
The contact owns a 2012 chevrolet captiva sport. The contact stated while making a left or right turn the sun visor hit her in the head. The contact took the vehicle to the dealer who replaced the sun visor but that did not remedy the issue. The manufacturer stated that they would not repair the vehicle again under the warranty. The failure mileage was 26,000.
I have brought my vehicle to chevy and was advised that they could not find anything wrong with the traction control or the radio.every so often the traction control light comes on and states that the traction control needs to be serviced when the vehicle is running idle for more than 30 seconds.when that comes on the radio blinks on and off.in the past two weeks, the vehicle had to get jumped twice. Took the vehicle to get tested at two different auto stores and was advised after they tested the battery that the battery was good.i am frustrated that they cannot find anything wrong with it yet it is on the brink of not working every other day.in addition, the vehicle was not able to go up a small hill after the snow had fallen.i had to get assistance.this is not acceptable.
Read more
